S&KVlk 


I 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

Agric.  Ref.  Bv. 

GIFT  OF 

Estate  of 
David  Prescott  Barrows 


a»jV 


PHILADELPHIA 

COOK  BOOK 


A  MANUAL 

OF 

HOME  ECONOMIES 


BY 

MRS    S    TyRORER 

PRINCIPAL   OF   PHILADELPHIA   COOKING  SCHOOL 


PHILADELPHIA 
ARNOLD  AND  COMPANY 

420  LIBRARY   STREET 


Copyright  1886  by  MRS  S   T  RORER 
All  Rights  Reserved 


GIFI 


MADE   BY 

GEORGE  H  BUCHANAN  AND  COMPANY 

420      LIBRARY   STREET      420 


TO   MY   FRIEND 

MRS   ELIZA  S  TURNER 

THROUGH   WHOSE   ENERGY   AND   LIBERALITY 

WAS   ESTABLISHED 
THE  FIRST  COOKING  SCHOOL 

IN   PHILADELPHIA 
THIS   BOOK   IS   AFFECTIONATELY   DEDICATED 


433 


"Men  die,  and  many,  because  they  know  not 
how  to  live  ' ' 

"  Come,  pilgrim,  I  will  bring  you  where  you 
shall  host" 

ALL'S  WELL  THAT  ENDS  WELL 


CONTENTS 


PREFACE    .             .            .             .             .  vii 

SOUPS                .....  i 

STOCK  AND  STOCK  SOUPS  .             .  2 

SOUPS  WITHOUT  STOCK             .            .  .           23 

FISH  SOUPS            .            .            .            .  29 

CHOWDERS       .            .            ..             .  •           34 

FISH          .             .            .             .             .  41 

SHELL  FISH     .            .            .            .  .           55 

MEATS       .                     •  .            ,            .  79 

BEEF                 .  82 

MUTTON    .            .            .            .            .  112 

LAMB                .             .             .             .  .         121 

VEAL      •   .            .            .            .             .  122 

PORK                 .            .            .            .  .         142 

WHAT  TO  SAVE  AND  How  TO  USE  IT  157 

POULTRY           .            .            .            .  .165 

GAME         .....  202 

FORCEMEATS  AND  STUFFINGS               .  .         219 

MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES  AND  GRAVIES    .  221 

STOCK  FOR  SAUCES  AND  GRAVIES       .  .         222 

SALADS       .....  233 

MODERN  DINNER-GIVING         .             .  .         247 

MENUS        .....  249 

EGGS                '.             .            .            .  .253 

VEGETABLES           .            .            .            .  261 

BREAD              .             .             .             .  .311 


vi  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

RAISED  ROLLS,  BISCUITS,  ETC.      .            .  322 

RAISED  MUFFINS,  GEMS,  ETC.               .             .  326 

RAISED  WAFFLES  AND  GRIDDLE  CAKES  328 

QUICK   MUFFINS,  WAFFLES  AND  GRIDDLE  CAKES  331 

SODA  AND  MILK  BISCUITS            .             .  337 

FRITTERS,  DOUGHNUTS  AND  CRULLERS            .  341 

CEREALS                  .            .             .             .  351 

MACARONI         .            .            .            .  358 

CHEESE      .....  363 

To  COOKS         .....  367 

PASTRY  AND  PIES               .            .            .  371 

PUDDINGS  AND  DESSERTS         .             .             .  389 

PUDDING  SAUCES   ....  436 

ICE  CREAMS                   ....  445 

WATER- ICES  AND  SHERBETS           .            .  458 

JELLIES              .....  467 

PLAIN  CAKES,  BUNS,  ETC.              .            .  475 

FANCY  CAKES               ....  480 

CANDIES      .....  509 
FRUIT                .            .             .            .             .513 

CANNING  AND  PRESERVING             .             .  519 
MARMALADES                .             .             .            .523 

PICKLING   .            .            .            .            .  526 
CATSUPS            .            .            .            .            .532 

DRINKS       .....  539 

IN  THE  KITCHEN  AND  PANTRY            .            .  5/1/1 

GATHERED  CRUMBS           .             .             .  549 
How      .             .            .            .            .            »554 

SUITABLE   COMBINATIONS  OF  FOOD              .  560 

TABLE  OF  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES  .            .  563 

INDEX           .....  565 


PREFACE 


To  offer  to  the  American  housewives  a  new  Cook 
Book  may  appear  to  many  an  unnecessary  labor,  con- 
sidering the  country  is  already  provided  with  elaborate 
works  on  the  subject;  but  upon  referring  to  many  of 
them,  I  have  often  detected  an  obscurity  in  directions 
in  recipes  which,  in  the  hands  of  an  amateur,  would 
lead  to  failure,  and  have  in  the  following  recipes 
endeavored  to  avoid  this  by  making  them  so  plain, 
that  a  beginner  may  successfully  make,  with  few 
exceptions,  any  dish  contained  herein,  and  I  may  add, 
all  these  recipes  have  been  prepared  over  and  over 
again  by  pupils  under  my  supervision. 

It  has  been  many  years  since  Philadelphia  has 
contributed  a  publication  of  this  kind,  and  as  she 
occupies  a  place  second  to  none  in  the  science,  her 
peculiar  dishes  being  known  not  only  in  this  country 
but  abroad  as  well,  it  seems  appropriate  that  she  should 
be  newly  represented. 

(vii) 


viii  PHILADELPHIA   COOK  BOOK 

Under  each  heading  I  have  endeavored  to  give  in 
a  simple  manner  a  brief  introduction,  explaining  the 
chemistry  of  the  article,  mode  of  selecting,  and  such 
other  information  as  I  thought  would  be  of  interest 
to  the  reader. 

References  to  Sick  Diet  or  Medicated  Food 
have  purposely  been  avoided,  as  there  is  in  prepara- 
tion a  work  on  Dietetics,  which  will  contain  all  the 
recipes  collected  and  tried  during  my  connection  with 
hospitals. 

"  Before  the  housewife  now  my  book  is  laid — 
'  T  will  aid  her,  if  its  teachings  be  obeyed." 

SARAH  T    RORER 
1525  CHESTNUT  STREET,  PHILADELPHIA 


SOUPS 


The  first  and  most  important  point  in  making  good  soup 
is  to  have  the  best  of  materials.  To  make  our  soup  a 
perfect  food  we  must  change  the  solid  meat  into  a  liquid 
form ;  to  do  this,  we  must  first  soften  the  fibrin,  so  as  to  draw 
out  the  juices  and  blood,  consisting  of  albumen  and  fat ; 
the  gelatine,  which  exists  in  the  bone,  cartilages,  membranes 
and  skin,  which  is  nitrogenous  matter,  but  not  nutritious; 
and  the  osmazome,  that  substance  which  gives  odor  and 
flavor.  As  a  low  degree  of  heat  changes  the  albumen 
(which  is  exactly  similar  to  the  white  of  an  egg}  into  a  solid 
form,  we  at  once  see  the  necessity  of  using  cold  soft  water. 
Soft  water,  because  it  makes  its  way  into  the  tissues  more 
readily  than  hard  water,  thereby  softening  the  texture  of 
the  meat  and  allowing  the  juices  to  escape  more  easily ;  and 
we  also  see  the  importance  of  not  boiling  the  soup,  as  the 
albumen  on  the  surface  of  the  meat  immediately  coagulates 
and  prevents  the  gelatine,  fat  and  osmazome  from  dissolving 
and  being  drawn  out  into  the  water.  Salt  should  never  be 
added  until  the  soup  is  done,  as  it  hardens  the  water;  and 
we  have  found  that  soft  water  is  the  best.  As  the  water 
begins  to  heat  a  small  portion  of  albumen  coagulates,  form- 
ing a  fine  fibrous  net  throughout  the  liquid  entangling  any 

substance  that  may  be  floating  in  it,  bringing  it  first  to  the 

W 


2  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

surface  and  then  settling  to  the  bottom,  showing  that  we 
must  watch  and  skim  at  this  time  to  have  a  clear  soup. 

You  will  notice  that  in  the  recipes  for  Consomme  and 
Bouillon,  to  clarify,  we  boil  after  adding  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  thereby  making  a  perfectly  clear  soup,  but  a  stimulant 
rather  than  nutrient,  as  we  rob  it  of  its  albumen  and  fibrin 
by  boiling  and  straining;  two  things  which  cannot  exist  at 
the  same  time,  a  very  clear  and  a  very  nutritious  soup. 

Another  very  important  point  is  to  have  a  porcelain- 
lined  or  better  still  a  granite  iron  soup  kettle  with  a  close 
cover.  Why?  Because  the  juices  of  the  meat  are  always 
acid  and  will  act  upon  a  metallic  kettle  thereby  giving  the 
soup  an  inky,  bitter  taste.  A  close  cover  to  keep  in  the 
steam  and  prevent  evaporation  and  also  to  keep  the  dust 
and  smoke  out. 


SOUPS  FROM  STOCK 

SOUP  STOCK 

i  shin  of  beef  2  bay  leaves 

5  quarts  of  cold  water        i  sprig  of  parsley 
i  onion  12  cloves 

i  carrot  i  stalk  of  celery 

i  turnip  i  tablespoonful  of  salt 

Lean,  uncooked  juicy  beef  should  form  the  basis  of  your 
soup.  No  cooked  or  stale  meats  should  be  used  for  clear 
stock.  Wipe  the  meat  well  with  a  damp  towel ;  now  cut  all 
the  meat  from  the  bones.  Place  the  bones  in  the  bottom 
of  a  large  porcelain-lined  or  granite  soup  kettle,  lay  the 
meat  on  top  of  them,  add  the  water  and  stand  the  kettle  on 
the  back  part  of  the  range  for  one  hour ;  then  place  it  over 
a  good  fire.  After  about  thirty  minutes,  the  scum  of  the 
meat  will  gather  on  the  surface,  and  the  water  will  begin  to 


SOUPS  3 

steam.  Now  place  it  over  a  more  moderate  fire,  add  one 
cup  of  cold  water,  and  skim  off  the  scum.  Now  cover  the 
kettle  closely  and  let  it  simmer  (not  boil)  for  four  hours; 
then  add  the  vegetables  and  simmer  one  hour  longer.  Then 
strain  the  stock  through  a  fine  sieve,  add  the  salt  and  stand  at 
once  in  a  cold  place  to  cool.  If  you  keep  it  in  a  warm  place 
for  a  few  hours  it  will  not  make  a  nice  jelly.  When  cold, 
take  all  the  grease  from  the  surface,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

BARLEY   SOUP 

2  tablespoon  fuls  of  pearl  barley 

i  quart  of  stock 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  barley  in  cold  water;  then  cover  it  with  boiling 
water,  let  it  boil  up  once  and  drain  it.  Cover  it  again 
with  boiling  water  and  simmer  it  for  two  hours.  Drain  ; 
add  to  the  stock  when  boiling  ;  let  it  stand  on  the  back  part 
of  the  range  for  ten  minutes ;  add  salt  and  pepper, and  serve. 

BLACK    BEAN   SOUP 

i  pint  of  turtle  beans  2  hard-boiled  eggs 

T.i/2  quarts  of  boiling  water       i  lemon 

i  quart  of  stork  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

If  you  use  wine,  i  gill 

Wash  the  beans  well  in  cold  water  and  soak  them  over 
night.  In  the  morning,  drain  the  water  off  and  cover  them 
again  with  one  quart  of  the  boiling  water.  Boil  until  tender, 
about  two  hours.  Now  add  the  stock  and  the  pint  of  boil- 
ing water.  Press  the  whole  through  a  sieve;  wash  the 
kettle,  return  the  soup  and  bring  it  to  a  boil ;  add  salt  and 
pepper.  Cut  the  eggs  and  lemon  into  slices  and  put  into  the 
tureen,  pour  the  boiling  soup  over,and  serve. 

If  wine  is  used,  put  it  in  the  tureen  with  the  lemon  and 
egg- 


4  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

DRIED   BEAN    SOUP 

I  pint  dried  beans  i  quart  of  stock 

Y^,  pound  of  ham  i^  quarts  of  boiling  water 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  beans  and  soak  them  over  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing drain  the  water  off,  and  cover  them  again  with  the 
boiling  water;  add  the  ham  and  boil  gently  two  hours. 
Now  add  the  stock.  Press  the  beans  through  a  sieve,  return 
them  to  the  soup  kettle  and  bring  to  a  boil.  Add  salt  and 
pepper,  and  serve  with  toasted  bread. 

DRIED  BEAN  SOUP  WITHOUT  MEAT 

1  quart  of  dried  white  soup  beans 

2  quarts  of  water 

i  large  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  beans,  cover  them  with  water  and  soak  over  night. 
Next  morning,  drain,  put  them  on  to  boil  with  two  quarts  of 
fresh  cold  water.  As  soon  as  they  come  to  a  boil,  drain  this 
water  off  and  throw  it  away,  this  prevents  the  soup  from  being 
strong.  Now  cover  again  with  two  quarts  of  fresh  boiling 
water,  add  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda, 
and  boil  until  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Now  press  the  beans 
through  a  sieve,  return  to  the  soup  kettle  and  add  sufficient 
water  to  make  the  soup  about  the  consistency  of  cream, 
add  the  salt,  pepper  and  butter  and  serve  with  croutons. 


CLEAR  SOUP  WITH  CROUTONS 

i  quart  of  stock 
y>,  pint  of  croutons 

Salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste 

To  make  the  croutons,  cut  stale  bread  into  thin  slices, 
spread  it  lightly  with  butter  on  one  side,  then  cut  into 
dice.  (It  will  take  about  three  slices  from  a  baker's  square 


SOUPS  5 

five  cent  loaf.)  Place  them  on  a  tin  pie  dish,  and  put  them 
in  a  moderate  oven  until  a  golden  brown. 

Melt  the  stock  gradually,  bring  it  to  boiling  point,  add 
salt  and  pepper.  Serve  soup  in  a  tureen  with  croutons  on 
a  separate  dish.  If  you  put  them  in  the  soup  when  you 
dish  it,  they  will  become  heavy  and  waxy  before  it  reaches 
the  dining  room. 

If  the  soup  is  too  light,  color  it  with  caramel.  (See 
recipe  for  making  it.) 

CLEAR  VEGETABLE  SOUP 


2  quarts  of  stock 

i  quart  of  boiling  water 

i  small  carrot 

i  turnip 

i  sweet  potato 


white  potato 
ear  of  corn 
cupful  of  peas 
cupful  of  beans 


tomato 


i  tablespoon  ful  of  rice  or  barley 
Put  the  water  into  a  soup  kettle,  cut  the  vegetables  into 
pieces  of  uniform  size,  otherwise  the  smaller  ones  will  dis- 
solve and  impair  the  transparency  of  the  soup.  (There  are 
various  small  tin  cutters  that  can  be  purchased  for  this  pur- 
posi'.)  Put  the  carrot  and  turnip  on  rd  boil;  after  they 
have  boiled  one  hour,  add  all  the  other  vegetables  and  rice 
and  boil  until  tender.  Now  add  the  stock,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Let  it  boil  up  once  and  serve. 


JULIENNE    SOUP 

2  quarts  of  stock  2  onions  or  6  young  leeks 

2  carrots  i  head  of  cauliflower 

T  turnip'  i  head  of  lettuce 

The  white  part  of       ^  a  gill  of  green  peas 

a  head  of  celery       ^  a  gill  of  asparagus  heads 
Scrape  and  cut  the  carrots  into  slices,  then  into  dice  or  with 
the  vegetable  cutters.     Pare  and  cut  the  turnip ;  slice  the 


6  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

onions,  cut  the  celery  into  pieces  about  half-inch  long, 
and  the  head  of  cauliflower  into  flowerets.  Put  them  into 
a  kettle,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes ; 
then  drain  them  in  a  colander. 

Melt  the  stock  and  bring  it  to  a  boil ;  put  the  vege- 
tables from  the  colander  into  it  and  simmer  half  an  hour. 
Put  the  peas  and  asparagus  heads  into  boiling  water  and 
simmer  them  for  twenty  minutes  ;  then  drain  and  add  them 
to  the  boiling  soup,  then  the  lettuce,  cut  into  pieces  the 
size  of  a  half-dollar  (the  lettuce  should  cook  about  ten 
minutes)  ;  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  at  once. 

LENTIL    SOUP 

1  pint  of  lentils  Sprig  of  thyme 

2  quarts  of  stock  i  bay  leaf 

i  onion  i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 

Sprig  of  parsley  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  lentils  and  soak  them  over  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing drain  off  the  water,  add  the  stock  and  simmer  gently 
until  the  lentils  are  tender,  about  one  and  a  half  hours. 
Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan  and,  when  melted,  add  the 
onion  cut  in  slices,  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Fry 
(saute)  until  brown.  Now  add  these  to  the  lentils  and 
simmer  a  half  hour  longer.  Now  press  the  whole  through 
a  sieve. 

Return  it  to  the  soup  kettle,  boil  up  once,  add  salt  and 
pepper  and  serve  with  toasted  bread  cut  into  small  squares. 

MACARONI    SOUP 

i  ounce  of  macaroni 

i  quart  of  stock 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Break  the  macaroni  into  pieces  about  two  inches  long ;  put 
it  into  a  stewing-pan  and  cover  it  with  one  quart  of  boiling 


SOUPS  7 

water.  Boil  it  for  twenty  minutes,  drain  and  cut  each 
piece  in  two.  Melt  the  stock,  bring  it  to  boiling  point, 
add  the  macaroni,  let  it  simmer  five  minutes,  add  salt  and 
pepper  and  serve.  A  plate  of  Parmesan  may  be  served 
with  this  if  liked. 

NOODLE   SOUP   (Beef) 
2  quarts  of  stock 

The  quantity  of  noodles  given  in  recipe  for  noodles 
Salt  and  pepper 

Melt  the  stock,  then  bring  it  to  boiling  point,  add  the 
noodles;  boil  fifteen  minutes;  add  salt  and  pepper  and 
serve  at  once. 

If  you  use  the  bought  noodles,   four  ounces  will  be 
sufficient.     Boil  and  make  just  the  same. 

ONION   SOUP 

1  large  Spanish  or  three  Bermudas  2  quarts  of  stock 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  Salt  and  pepper 
Peel  and  chop  the  onion  into  dice.     Put  the  butter  in  a 
frying  pan;  when  hot,  add  the  onions  and  stir  until  a  nice 
brown.     Put  the  stock  on  to  boil;  when  it  boils,  skim  the 
onions  out  of  butter  and  add  them  to  the  stock,  let  them 
simmer,  for  thirty  minutes,  add  salt  and  pepper  and  it  is 
ready  to  serve. 

RICE    SOUP 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  rice 

i  quart  of  stock 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  rice  and  put  it  in  a  sauce-pan  with  one  pint  of 
boiling  water,  boil  slowly  for  thirty  minutes ;  drain  and 
add  to  boiling  stock.  Let  the  whole  boil  five  minutes,  add 
salt  and  pepper  and  serve. 


8  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

SAGO    SOUP 

2  quarts  of  stock 
2  ounces  of  sago 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  sago  through  several  waters,  then  cover  it  with 
warm  water  and  let  it  soak  for  one  hour.  Melt  the 
stock  and  bring  it  to  boiling  point.  Drain  the  sago,  add 
it  to  the  stock ;  let  it  boil  slowly  half  an  hour,  stirring 
very  often  to  prevent  scorching.  Add  salt  and  pepper, 
and  serve. 

SORREL   SOUP 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter         i  quart  of  stock 
i  pint  of  sorrel  Yolks  of  two  eggs 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  butter  in  a  sauce-pan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  as 
soon  as  melted,  put  the  sorrel  in,  and  stir  one  minute  ;  then 
add  the  stock,  salt  and  pepper ;  boil  three  minutes.  Beat 
the  yolks  lightly,  put  them  into  the  tureen,  pour  the  boiling 
soup  over  gradually,  stirring  all  the  whiJe  till  thoroughly 
mixed.  Serve  with  croutons. 


SPLIT    PEA    SOUP 

i  pint  of  split  peas  i  quart  of  stock 

i)^  quarts  of  boiling  water  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Wash  the  peas  in  cold  water  (rejecting  those  which  float) 
and  soak  them  over  night.  In  the  morning  drain  the 
water  off  and  cover  them  again  with  one  quart  of  the  boil- 
ing water.  Boil  until  tender,  about  one  and  a  half  hours. 
Now  add  the  stock  and  the  one  pint  of  boiling  water.  Press 
the  whole  through  a  sieve ;  wash  the  soup  kettle,  return  the 
soup,  boil  up  once,  add  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  with 
croutons.  Dried  pea  soup  may  be  made  in  exactly  the 
same  manner,  using  one  pint  of  dried  peas  instead  of  the 
split  ones. 


SOUPS  9 

TOMATO    SOUP    No.  i 

i  quart  can  or  one  quart       i  stalk  celery 

of  stewed  tomatoes        i  bay  leaf 
i  quart  water  or  stock  2  tablespoon  fills  of  butter 

i  onion  4  tablespoon fuls  of  flour 

i  carrot  %  pound  of  ham 

Cut  the  ham  into  dice  and  the  onion  into  slices  and  fry 
them  together  until  brown,  then  put  them  into  a  large 
saucepan  with  the  water,  bay  leaf,  celery  and  carrot ;  let 
the  whole  simmer  for  one  hour  ;  then  add  the  tomatoes  and 
simmer  again  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Now  press 
the  tomatoes  through  a  sieve.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour 
together  until  smooth,  add  it  to  the  boiling  soup,  and  stir 
constantly  until  it  boils ;  add  salt  and  pepper  and  serve 
with  croutons. 

TOMATO    SOUP    No.  2 

i  quart  can  or  one  quart  of  stewed  tomatoes 
i  pint  of  stock  or  water  (first  the  best) 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter 

^  teaspoonful  of  baking  soda 

2  tablespoon  fuls  of  corn  starch  or  flour 
i  teaspoonful  of  sugar 

r  small  onion 

Sprig  of  parsley 

i  bay  leaf 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  tomatoes  in  a  saucepan  with  the  bay  leaf,  parsley, 
onion,  and  stock  or  water.  Let  all  stew  for  fifteen  min- 
utes. Now  press,  them  through  a  sieve  fine*  enough  to 
remove  the  seeds.  Wash  the  saucepan,  return  the  toma- 
toes to  it.  Put  it  on  the  fire  to  boil.  Rub  the  butter  and 
corn  starch  or  flour  together  until  smooth,  and  stir  into  the 
soup  when  boiling.  Stir  constantly  until  smooth.  Now 
add  salt,  pepper,  sugar  and  soda.  Serve  immediately  with 
croutons. 


10  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

TURKISH    SOUP     (Miss  Dodd) 

i  quart  of  stock  Yolks  of  two  eggs 

YZ  teacupful  of  rice         i  tablespoonful  of  cream 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Boil  together  for  twenty  minutes  the  rice  and  stock  ;  then 
press  them  through  a  sieve  and  return  them  to  the  kettle. 
Beat  the  yolks  well  and  add  to  them  the  cream.  Add  this 
to  the  stock  and  rice,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  two  min- 
utes, but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Add  salt  and  pepper, 
and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 


VERMICELLI     SOUP 

Vermicelli  soup  is  made  exactly  the  same  as  beef  noodle 
soup,  using  four  ounces  of  vermicelli  instead  of  noodles. 


MEAT  AND   VEGETABLE   SOUPS 


ALBERT    SOUP 

i  four-pound  chicken  2  quarts  of  cold  water 

4  good-sized  potatoes  i  onion 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter      i  bay  leaf 
Yolks  of  two  eggs  Sprig  of  parsley 

A  grating  of  nutmeg  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Clean  the  chicken,  put  it  in  the  soup  kettle  with  the  water, 
bay  leaf,  onion  and  parsley,  and  simmer  gently  two 
hours.  Take  out  the  chicken  and  remove  the  white  meat, 
which  chop  very  fine.  Put  the  bones  and  the  remainder 
of  the  chicken  back  into  the  kettle  to  simmer,  while  the 
potatoes  are  roasting.  When  the  potatoes  are  done,  take 
out  the  centres  and  mash  well.  Add  to  them  the  chopped 
meat  of  the  chicken,  butter,  nutmeg,  yolks  of  eggs,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  teaspoon ful  of  salt,  and  a  little  pepper.  Mix  all 


SOUPS  11 

well  together.  Form  into  balls  about  a  half-inch  in  diam- 
eter, then  fry  them  in  butter  until  a  light  brown.  Put 
them  into  the  soup  tureen.  Strain  the  soup,  skim  all  the 
fat  from  the  surface,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  let  it  boil 
up  once,  pour  it  over  the  balls  and  serve  immediately. 

Should  you  be  obliged  to  keep  this  soup  waiting,  allow 
the  soup  to  remain  hot  in  the  kettle,  and  place  the  balls 
where  they  will  keep  warm.  Put  together  at  serving  time. 


BOUILLON   FOR  PARTIES  AND  GERMANS 

2  pounds  of  lean  beef  i  stalk  of  celery,  or 
i  quart  of  cold  water  half  teaspoon ful 

i  small  onion  of  celery  seed 

i  bay  leaf  Sprig  of  parsley 

Free  the  meat  from  all  fat  and  gristle  and  chop  it  fine 
(your  butcher  can  do  this  best).  Put  the  meat  in  the  Soup 
kettle  with  the  water,  bay  leaf,  parsley,  onion  and  celery ; 
cover  the  kettle  closely  and  place  it  on  the  back  part  of 
the  range  for  two  hours.  Then  place  it  over  a  good  fire ; 
skim  at  the  first  boil.  Now  place  it  over  a  moderate  fire 
and  simmer  gently  four  hours.  Strain,  return  it  to  the 
soup  kettle,  add  salt  and  pepper.  Beat  the  white  of  one 
egg  with  half  a  cup  of  cold  water  until  thoroughly  mixed. 
Wash  the  egg  shell,  mash  it  and  add  it  to  the  white.  In 
breaking  the  egg,  take  care  to  separate  it  so  nicely  that 
none  of  the  yellow  gets  into  the  white — as  the  smallest  por- 
tion of  the  yellow  will  prevent  the  bouillon  from  being 
perfectly  clear.  Now  add  the  white,  shell  and  water  to  the 
boiling  bouillon ;  let  it  boil  hard  for  ten  minutes ;  then 
throw  in  one  gill  of  cold  water  and  boil  five  minutes  longer; 
then  take  the  kettle  off  the  fire  and  strain  through  a  flannel 
bag,  add  salt  to  taste  and  color  with  caramel — about 
half  a  teaspoonful  to  a  quart.  (See  recipe  for  Caramel.) 


12  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

CALF'S  HEAD  SOUP 

i  calf's  head  i  small  carrot 

3  quarts  of  cold  water         Sprig  of  parsley 

4  cloves  i  bay  leaf 

i  onion  Sprig  of  sweet  marjoram 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  head  well  through  three  waters;  scald  it;  wash  it 
again  in  cold  water,  and  soak  it  fifteen  minutes.  Be  sure 
that  throat  and  nasal  passages  are  perfectly  clean.  Now 
put  it  into  a  soup  kettle  with  the  cold  water.  Bring  it 
slowly  to  a  boil  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  five  hours, 
skimming  it  carefully  until  no  more  scum  rises.  Put  in 
the  vegetables  and  spices  one  hour  before  the  soup  is 
done.  When  done,  strain  and  stand  away  to  cool.  Do 
this  the  day  before  you  want  to  use  it;  when  cool,  remove 
all  the  fat  from  the  surface.  Make  force-meat  balls  as  fol- 
lows :  one  cup  of  meat  from  the  head,  chopped  fine;  add 
to  it  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  the  grated  peel 
of  half  a  lemon,  one  raw  egg,  one  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  black  pepper.  Mix 
well  and  form  into  little  balls  the  size  of  a  hickory  nut. 
Fry  them  in  butter  until  a  golden  brown. 

When  ready  to  use  bring  the  soup  to  boiling  point,  sea- 
son with  a  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  salt  and 
pepper.  Put  into  a  two-quart  stewing-pan  two  ounces  (two 
tablespoonfuls)  of  butter,  and  when  it  bubbles,  stir  in  two 
heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Mix  well,  add  to  this  the 
soup,  stir  constantly  until  it  boils.  Put  the  force-meat  balls 
into  the  tureen,  pour  over  the  boiling  soup  and,  if  you 
use  it,  add  one  glass  of  Sherry  or  Madeira.  The  brains 
should  be  taken  out  of  the  head  before  boiling.  They 
can  be  used  for  another  dish.  (See  recipe  for  cooking 
calf's  brains.) 


SOUPS  13 

CHICKEN    SOUP     No.  i 

i  chicken  weighing  four  pounds     i  bay  leaf 

3  quarts  of  cold  water  Sprig  of  parsley 

1  small  onion  */£  cup  of  rice 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Clean  the  chicken,  put  it  in  a  soup  kettle  with  the  cold 
water,  stand  it  on  a  moderate  fire  and  bring  it  slowly  to 
boiling  point.  Skim  carefully.  Let  it  simmer  slowly,  till 
the  flesh  drops  to  pieces,  about  three  hours.  Now  add  the 
onion,  bay  leaf,  parsley,  and  simmer  fifteen  minutes.  Now 
strain  it.  Wash  the  kettle  and  return  the  soup;  add  salt, 
pepper,  and  the  rice,  well  washed.  Cover  the  kettle  and 
let  it  boil  thirty  minutes  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

CHICKEN    SOUP     No.  2 

Take  one  old  fowl  weighing  five  pounds,  cover  it  with  three 
(jiiarts  of  cold  water,  and  simmer  four  hours  or  until  the 
chicken  is  tender.  After  the  chicken  has  been  boiling  two 
hours,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  a  half  cup  of  rice,  a 
small  onion.  Serve  the  chicken  whole  with  egg  sauce  ;  add 
pepper  only  to  the  soup. 

CONSOMME 

2  pounds  of  lean  beef         Stalk  of  celery 

2  pounds  of  veal  Sprig  of  parsley 

i  onion  Small-sized  carrot 

i  bay  leaf  2  quarts  of  cold  water 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 

The  under  part  of  the  round  of  beef  and  the  knuckle  of 
veal  are  the  best  for  this  soup.  Cut  all  the  meat  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  square.  Put  the  butter  in  the  soup  kettle 
and  let  it  brown ;  add  to  it  the  meat  and  stir  over  the  fire 
about  five  minutes,  or  until  the  meat  is  a  nice  brown.  Now 
cover  the  kettle  and  let  it  simmer  for  thirty  minutes.  Now 


14  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

add  the  water  and  let  simmer  for  four  hours.  Now  add 
the  vegetables  and  bay  leaf  and  simmer  one  hour  longer, 
strain  through  a  sieve  and  put  in  a  cold  place  to  cool.  When 
cold,  remove  the  fat  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

It  can  be  clarified  and  colored  the  same  as  Bouillon. 

FRUIT  SOUP 

1  pint  of  cranberries  or  currants 

2  quarts  of  water 

i  teacupful  of  dried  apples 
i  teacupful  of  dried  pears 

1  teacupful  of  raisins 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  corn  starch 
yz  pound  of  sugar 

Cut  the  apples  and  pears  into  small  pieces,  cover  with  luke-. 
warm  water  and  soak  one  hour.  Stem  and  seed  the  raisins. 
Put  the  cranberries  or  currants  into  the  water  and  boil  fif- 
teen minutes;  then  press  them  through  a  sieve.  Return  to 
the  soup  kettle  and  add  the  apples,  pears  and  raisins ;  boil 
all  together  one  hour.  Moisten  the  corn  starch  with  a  little 
cold  water,  add  it  to  the  boiling  soup ;  stir  constantly  until 
it  thickens,  add  the  sugar  and  serve. 

GIBLET  SOUP 

2  sets  of  chicken  giblets      Sprig  of  parsley 
i  pound  of  lean  beef  i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 

i  onion  i^  quarts  of  cold  water 

i  carrot  3  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

i  bay  leaf  6  hard-boiled  eggs 

Wash  the  livers,  open  the  hearts  and  remove  the  clotted 
blood.  Cut  open  the  gizzards,  being  careful  not  to  cut 
through  the  innermost  lining ;  empty  them  of  sand  and 
gravel  and  then  cut  out  the  thick  skin  remaining.  Put  the 
butter  in  a  frying-pan.  Cut  the  vegetables  into  squares. 
Throw  them  into  the  hot  butter  and  stir  until  a  nice  brown. 


SOUPS  15 

Now  skim  them  out  and  put  them  into  a  soup  kettle  with  the 
beef,  giblets,  water,  bay  leaf  and  parsley.  Place  it  over  a 
moderate  fire  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  gizzards  are  tender, 
about  two  hours,  skimming  until  clear.  Now  add  the  flour  to 
the  butter  remaining  in  the  pan  after  frying  the  vegetables; 
mix  until  smooth;  strain  the  soup  into  it,  and  boil  and 
stir  until  it  thickens.  Take  out  the  giblets  and  cut  them 
into  dice,  and  put  them  in  the  soup  tureen  with  the  yolks 
of  the  hard-boiled  eggs.  Season  the  soup  with  salt  and 
pepper,  pour  it  over  the  giblets  and  eggs  and  serve  at  once. 
Do  not  use  the  beef.  If  you  use  wine,  one  gill  will  be 
sufficient. 

GUMBO  SOUP   No.  i 

1  chicken  i  ^  quarts  of  cold  water 
50  oysters  i  bay  leaf 

2  dozen  okras  i  onion 

T/2  pound  of  ham       2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Cut  the  chicken  up  as  for  a  fricassee,  dredge  the  pieces  with 
flour  and  brown  them  in  the  butter.  Put  them  into  a  soup 
kettle  with  the  ham,  cut  into  small  squares,  the  onion  and 
the  bay  leaf.  Place  the  kettle  over  a  moderate  fire  and  bring 
slowly  to  a  boil.  Skim  carefully  at  the  first  boil  and  sim- 
mer gently  for  two  hours.  Now  add  the  okras,  cut  into 
slices,  and  simmer  one  hour  longer.  Drain  the  oysters, 
add  them  to  the  soup,  with  the  salt  and  cayenne.  Boil  two 
minutes  longer  and  serve. 

GUMBO  SOUP     No.  2 

i  chicken  6  tomatoes  or  one  pint 

i  onion  canned  tomatoes 

Y^  pound  of  ham  i  bay  leaf 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  ^  cup  of  rice 
i^  pints  okras  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 


16  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  SO  OK 

Cut  the  chicken  same  as  No.  i ;  cut  the  ham  into  squares 
and  the  onion  into  slices.  Roll  the  chicken  in  flour  and 
brown  it  in  the  butter.  Then  put  it  into  a  soup  kettle  with 
the  ham,  onion,  bay  leaf  and  water.  Place  it  on  a  mode- 
rate fire,  and  bring  it  slowly  to  a  boil,  skimming  carefully. 
Simmer  gently  forty-five  minutes.  In  the  meantime  cover 
the  okras  with  cold  water  and  soak  twenty  minutes,  cut 
them  in  slices  and  add  them  to  the  soup.  Simmer  gently 
one  hour ;  then  add  the  tomatoes,  pared  and  cut  into  small 
pieces,  and  the  rice.  Boil  half  an  hour  longer,  season  and 
serve. 

GREEN  PEA  SOUP 

i  quart  of  green  peas       i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
i  quart  of  stock  or  water  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
Yolks  of  two  eggs  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  peas  in  boiling  water  and  boil  them  twenty  minutes. 
Drain  and  press  them  through  a  colander.  Put  the  stock  or 
water  on  the  fire;  when  boiling,  add  the  peas.  Rub  the  butter 
and  flour  together  and  stir  them  into  the  boiling  soup ;  stir 
constantly  until  it  thickens,  add  salt  and  pepper.  Beat  the 
yolks  lightly,  put  them  in  the  soup  tureen,  add  the  soup 
gradually  to  them,  mix  well  and  serve  with  squares  of  toasted 
bread.  If  you  use  canned  peas,  just  press  them  through 
the  colander. 

MOCK  TURTLE  SOUP 

calf's  head  2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 

pound  of  calf's  liver  3  quarts  of  cold  water 
calf's  heart  4  even  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

bay  leaf  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom 

carrot  catsup 

onion  i  tablespoonful  of  Worcester- 

12  cloves  shire  sauce 

i  turnip  2  hard-boiled  eggs 

Bunch  of  pot-herbs        i  lemon 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 


SOUPS  17 

Have  the  butcher  unjoint  the  jaws  and  take  out  the  brains. 
Now  wash  the  head  well  through  several  cold  waters.  Pour 
boiling  water  through  the  throat  and  nasal  passages,  then 
wash  again  in  cold  water.  Now  put  it  in  the  soup  kettle 
and  cover  with  the  cold  water ;  put  it  over  a  moderate  fire. 
Skim  at  the  first  boil  and  again  in  fifteen  minutes.  Let  it 
simmer  until  the  meat  on  the  head  is  tender,  about  two 
hours.  Remove  the  head,  take  off  the  meat  and  tongue 
and  put  on  the  ice  to  cool.  Put  the  bones  back  into  the 
kettle,  add  the  vegetables  cleaned  and  cut  into  pieces,  also 
the  cloves  and  bay  leaf.  Let  this  simmer  for  two  hours 
longer.  Strain  and  put  away  over  night  to  cool.  Put  the 
liver  and  heart  in  the  ice-chest  with  the  other  meat.  In  the 
morning  skim  all  the  fat  from  the  surface.  Put  the  butter 
in  a  large  stewing-pan  and  stir  until  a  nice  brown,  then  add 
the  flour,  mix  well,  and  add  the  soup;  boil  and  stir  five 
minutes;  have  ready  the  meat  from  the  head  and  half  the 
liver  cut  into  dice,  add  them  to  the  soup  and  boil  up 
once ;  then  take  from  the  fire  and  add  the  sauces,  salt, 
pepper  and,  if  you  use  wine,  a  glass  of  sherry.  Slice  the 
hard-boiled  eggs  and  lemon,  put.  them  into  the  tureen,  pour 
the  boiling  soup  over  and  serve. 

MULLIGATAWNEY   SOUP 
i  chicken 

3  small  onions 

i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 

1  tablespoon  ful  of  curry  powder 

4  cloves 

Juice  of  half  a  lemon 

2  quarts  of  cold  water 
Salt  to  taste 

Cut  the  chicken  up  as  for  a  fricassee  ;  cut  the  onions  into 
slices.  Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  add  the  chicken  and 
onions,  and  stir  until  a  nice  brown ;  now  add  the  curry 


18  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

powder,  salt,  cloves  and  lemon  juice;  mix  well.  Put  into 
the  soup  kettle  with  the  water,  bring  slowly  to  a  boil,  skim 
and  simmer  gently  for  two  hours.  Serve  with  boiled  rice  in 
a  separate  dish.  Three  rabbits  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
chicken,  if  preferred. 


MUTTON   SOUP 

6  pounds  of  the  neck         ^  cup  of  rice 
i  onion  i  bay  leaf 

4  quarts  of  cold  water  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Wipe  the  necks  with  a  damp  towel,  put  them  in  a  soup 
kettle  and  cover  with  the  water;  bring  slowly  to  a  boil,  skim 
carefully;  cover  and  simmer  gently  for  four  hours.  Strain 
and  stand  away  over  night  to  cool.  In  the  morning  remove 
all  fat  from  the  surface.  Put  the  soup  into  the  kettle,  add 
the  onion,  bay  leaf  and  rice.  Simmer  half  an  hour,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve. 


NOODLE    SOUP 

i  chicken  weighing  four  pounds 

3  quarts  of  cold  water 

i  small  onion 

i  bay  leaf 

Sprig  of  parsley 

The  quantity  of  noodles  given  in  recipe  for 
noodles,  or  four  ounces  of  bought  noodles 
Clean  the  chicken,  put  it  in  the  soup  kettle  with  the  cold 
water,  stand  it  on  a  moderate  fire  and  bring  it  slowly  to 
boiling  point.     Skim  carefully.     Let  it  simmer  gently  two 
hours ;  then  add  the  onion,  bay  leaf  and  parsley,  and  sim- 
mer one  hour  longer. 

Dish  the  chicken  and  serve  it  with  egg  sauce.  Put  the 
noodles  into  the  soup  and  boil  fifteen  minutes ;  add  salt 
and  pepper  and  serve. 


SOUPS  19 

NORMANDY  SOUP 

i  knuckle  of  veal 
4  quarts  of  cold  water 
i  quart  of  white  button  onions 
y2  baker's  five-cent  loaf 

1  quart  of  cream 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  veal  in  a  soup  kettle  with  the  onions  and  water. 
Let  it  simmer  slowly  for  two  hours.  Then  add  the  bread, 
cut  into  slices.  Let  it  simmer  two  hours  longer.  Then 
remove  the  knuckle  and  press  the  remaining  ingredients 
through  a  sieve.  Return  it  to  the  soup  kettle.  Rub  the 
butter  and  flour  together  to  a  smooth  paste,  stir  it  into  the 
boiling  soup,  and  stir  constantly  until  it  thickens.  Add 
the  cream,  salt  and  pepper  and  serve.  This  soup  is 
delicious. 


OX-TAIL  SOUP 

2  ox-tails  i  turnip 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  i  bay  leaf 

i  onion  2  quarts  of  cold  water 

4  cloves  or  stock 

i  carrot  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  and  wipe  the  ox-tails.  Cut  them  into  pieces  about 
one  inch  long.  Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan ;  when  hot, 
throw  in  the  ox-tails  and  stir  until  they  turn  brown,  then 
skim  them  out,  and  put  them  into  a  soup  kettle  with  the 
onion,  the  cloves,  the  carrot,  the  turnip,  the  bay  leaf  and 
the  water  or  stock  (the  latter  the  best).  Simmer  until  the 
tails  are  tender,  about  two  hours.  Then  remove  the  vege- 
tables, add  salt  and  pepper  and  serve.  If  you  use  wine, 
one  glass  of  sherry. 


20  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

PEPPER  POT 

i  knuckle  of  veal  2  medium-sized  potatoes 

i  pound  of  plain  tripe  i  bay  leaf 

i  pound  of  honey-comb  tripe  3  quarts  of  cold  water 

Bunch  of  pot-herbs  2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 

i  onion  2  tablespoon  fuls  of  flour 

i^  pound  of.  suet  Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Wash  the  tripe  well  in  cold  water.     Put  it  in  a  kettle,  cover 

it  with  cold  water  and  boil  eight  hours ;  this  should  be 

cooked  the   day  before   you  want    the  soup.      Wipe  the 

knuckle  with  a  damp  towel,  put  it  in  a  soup  kettle,  cover 

with  the  water,  place  it  on  the  fire  and  bring  slowly  to  a 

simmer,  carefully  skimming  off  the  scum.     Simmer  gently 

for  three  hours,  then  strain  and  return  soup  to  the  kettle. 

Wash  the  pot-herbs,  chop  the  parsley,  rub  off  the  thyme 

leaves,  and  cut  only  half  the  red  pepper  (they  usually  put  a 

whole  one  in  each  bunch).     Cut  the  potatoes  into  dice  ; 

add  all  these  and  the  bay  leaf  to  the  soup.     Cut  the  tripe 

into   pieces   one   inch   square.       Cut  the   meat  from  the 

knuckle  into  small  pieces;  add  these   also  to  the  soup; 

'place  it  on  the  fire  and,  when  at  boiling  point,  season  with 

the  salt  and  cayenne.     Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together 

and  stir  into  the  boiling  soup,  and  then  fifty  small  dumplings 

made  as  follows :   Chop  the  suet  fine,  measure  it,  and  take 

double  the  quantity  of  flour,  one-quarter  of  teaspoonful 

of  salt,  mix  well  together,  moisten  with  ice  water  (about  a 

quarter  of  a  cup).     Form  into  tiny  dumplings  about  the 

size  of  a  marble,  throw  into  the  soup,  simmer  for  fifteen 

minutes  and  serve. 

RABBIT  SOUP 

2  young  rabbits  i  bay  leaf 

2  quarts  of  cold  water  ^  cup  of  rice 

i  good-sized  onion  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  blade  of  mace  Salt  and  pepper 


SOUPS  21 

Skin  and  singe  the  rabbits.  Wash  them  well  in  warm 
water.  Cut  them  in  small  pieces  and  put  in  a  soup  kettle. 
Cover  with  the  water,  add  the  onion,  mace  and  bay  leaf. 
Place  on  a  moderate  fire  and  simmer  gently  until  the 
meat  is  tender,  about  an  hour  and  a  half.  Strain  and 
return  the  soup  to  the  kettle  ;  add  the  rice,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  simmer  for  a  half  hour ;  add  the  butter ; 
separate  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  add  it  to  the  soup, 
which  is  then  ready  to  serve. 
x 

SOUP  a  la  REINE. 

i  fowl  weighing  five  pounds  4  cloves 
3  quarts  of  cold  water  3  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 

1/2  cup  of  rice  2  tab lespoon  fuls  of  flour 

]/?,  pint  of  good  cream  i  blade  of  mace 

i  carrot  i  piece   of  cinnamon  half 

i  onion  an  inch  long 

i  bay  leaf  Salt  and  pepj>er  to  taste 

Clean  the  fowl,  put  it  in  the  soup  kettle  with  the  water, 
rice,  mace,  cloves,  cinnamon  and  bay  leaf.  Cover  the 
kettle  and  simmer  gently  two  hours.  Clean  the  vegetables 
and  cut  them  into  squares.  Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan ; 
when  hot,  throw  in  the  vegetables  and  stir  until  a  nice 
brown ;  then  skim  them  out,  put  them  in  the  soup  kettle, 
cover  and  simmer  one  hour  longer.  Now  add  the  flour  to 
the  butter  left  in  the  frying-pan  (if  the  butter  is  burned 
take  fresh  butter),  mix  and  stir  into  the  soup.  Skim  as  it 
boils  after  adding  the  butter.  Now  take  out  the  chicken  ; 
remove  the  white  meat,  chop  it  very  fine  and  put  it 
back  into  the  soup.  Remove  the  carrot  and  spices  and 
press  the  rest  through  a  sieve.  Wash  the  kettle,  return 
the  soup,  add  the  cream,  salt  and  pepper ;  boil  up  once 
and  serve. 

If  you  use  wine,  one  gill  at  serving  time. 


22  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

VEGETABLE  SOUP  WITHOUT    MEAT 

i  carrot  i  root  of  celery 

i  sweet  potato  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  turnip  2  tablespoonfuls  of  rice 

i  parsnip  2  quarts  of  cold  water 

i  white  potato  i  bay  leaf 

i  onion  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 
i  sprig  of  parsley 

Cut  the  vegetables  into  dice.  Put  the  butter  into  a  frying- 
pan;  and,  when  hot  put  in  all  the  vegetables  but  the  white 
potato  and  fry  until  a  light  brown.  Then  turn  the  whole, 
butter  and  all,  into. a  soup  kettle,  add  the  water,  rice,  bay 
leaf,  salt,  parsley  and  celery.  Let  them  boil  slowly  one 
and  a  quarter  hours.  Then  add  the  white  potato;  boil 
fifteen  minutes  longer,  season  to  taste  and  serve. 


VEGETABLE  SOUP  WITH  SHIN  OF  BEEF 

i  shin  of  beef  i  teacupful  of  chopped 

5  quarts  of  cold  water  cabbage 

i  turnip  2  tablespoonfuls  of  barley 

i  carrot  i  onion 

i  parsnip  i  potato 

i  root  of  celery  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wipe  the  shin  with  a  damp  towel.  Put  it  into  a  soup 
kettle,  add  the  water,  place  it  over  a  moderate  fire  and 
bring  it  slowly  to  a  boil.  Skim  off  all  the  scum  and  let  it 
simmer  gently  four  hours.  Remove  the  meat,  place  it  where 
it  will  keep  warm  for  dinner.  Skim  off  all  the  fat  from 
the  top  of  the  soup.  Clean  the  vegetables  and  cut  them 
into  dice  (you  may  chop  them  if  you  like  in  a  chopping 
bowl).  Add  them  to  the  soup.  Scald  the  barley  and  let 
it  stand  five  minutes,  then  add  it  to  the  soup.  Simmer  the 
whole  one  hour  longer.  Season  to  taste  and  it  is  ready  to 
serve.  Rice  may  be  used  in  the  place  of  barley. 


SOUPS 


CREAM    SOUPS 


VEAL  STOCK 

2  knuckles  of  veal  i  bay  leaf 

5  quarts  of  cold  water       i  turnip 
i  tablespoon ful  of  salt       Stalk  of  celery 
i  onion  Sprig  of  parsley 

i  carrpt  4  cloves 

i  blade  of  mace 

Wipe  the  knuckles  with  a  damp  towel  and  have  the  bones 
cracked.  Put  them  into  a  soup  kettle  with  cold  water  and 
salt.  Place  on  a  moderate  fire  and  bring  slowly  to  a  boil; 
skim.  Now  simmer  gently  for  four  hours.  Clean  the 
vegetables  and  add  them  and  all  the  other  ingredients  to 
the  soup  and  simmer  one  hour  longer.  Strain  and  it  is 
ready  to  use. 


WHITE  STOCK 

Skeletons  of  yesterday's  chickens 
3  pounds  of  veal 
i  pound  of  ham 
Sprig  of  parsley 
i  bay  leaf 

1  small  onion 

2  quarts  of  water 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  salt 

Put  the  skeletons,  veal,  ham  and  water  in  a  soup  kettle, 
place  over  a  moderate  fire,  bring  it  slowly  to  a  boil. 
Skim  carefully.  Now  simmer  gently  two  hours.  Add  the 
parsley,  bay  leaf,  onion  and  salt.  Simmer  one  hour  longer. 
Strain  and  put  in  a  cold  place  to  cool.  When  cold  re- 
move the  fat  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 


24  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

CREAM  OF  ASPARAGUS  SOUP 

i  bunch  of  asparagus 

1  quart  of  milk 

2  even  tablespoonfuls  of  corn  starch  or  flour 
i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  asparagus,  tie  it  in  a  bunch,  put  it  in  a  sauce-pan 
of  boiling  water.  Boil  gently  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Take  it  from  the  water,  cut  off  the  tops,  put  them  aside 
until  wanted.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler. 
Press  the  asparagus  stalks  through  a  colander,  add  them  to 
the  milk.  Rub  the  butter  and  corn  starch  or  flour  together 
until  smooth,  add  to  the  boiling  milk  and  stir  constantly, 
until  it  thickens.  Now  add  the  asparagus  tops,  salt  and 
pepper  and  serve. 

Canned  asparagus  may  be  used  when  you  cannot  get  the 
fresh.  One  quart  can  will  be  sufficient.  This  soup  may  be 
varied  by  using  one  pint  of  veal  or  white  stock  and  one 
pint  of  milk,  instead  of  the  one  quart  of  milk. 

CREAM   OF  BARLEY  SOUP 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  barley     i  pint  of  veal  or  white 
i  pint  of  milk  stock 

Yolks  of  two  eggs  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Scald  the  barley,  drain,  cover  with  fresh  boiling  water  and 
boil  three  hours.  Strain.  Put  the  milk  and  stock  on  to 
boil,  add  the  barley,  salt  and  pepper.  Beat  the  yolks 
lightly,  put  them  in  the  soup  tureen,  pour  over  the  boiling 
soup  and  serve  at  once. 

CREAM  OF  CELERY  SOUP 

3  roots  of  celery  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

i  quart  of  milk  i  pint  of  water 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter    Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
A  piece  of  onion  the  size  of  a  silver  quarter 


SOUPS  25 

Wash  the  celery  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Cover  it 
with  the  water  and  boil  thirty  minutes ;  then  press  it  through 
a  colander.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler,  add 
to  it  the  water  and  celery  that  was  pressed  through  the  col- 
ander, also  the  onion.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together, 
and  stir  into  the  boiling  soup,  and  stir  constantly  until  it 
thickens.  Add  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  at  once.  This 
may  be  varied  same  as  cream  of  asparagus  soup. 

CREAM  OF  CHEESE  or  DUCHESS  SOUP 

1  quart  of  milk 
A  slice  of  carrot 
A  slice  of  onion 
A  blade  of  mace 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 

2  tablespoon  fuls  of  flour 

3  heaping  tablespoon  fuls  of  grated 

Parmesan  cheese 

Yolks  of  two  eggs 

Salt  and  pepper 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  the  farina  boiler,  with  the  carrot, 
onion  and  mace.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together.  Re- 
move the  vegetables  from  the  milk,  add  the  butter  and  flour, 
and  stir  constantly  until  it  thickens.  Add  the  cheese,  and 
stir  three  minutes.  Now  take  it  from  the  fire,  add  the 
beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  at  once. 
This  soup  cannot  be  heated  over.  Veal  stock  may  be  used 
in  this  soup  same  as  cream  of  asparagus  soup. 

CREAM  OF  CORN  SOUP 

i  pint  of  grated  corn  3  tablespoon  fuls  of  butter 

3  pints  of  boiling  water  or,     2  even  tablespoon  fuls  of  flour 

better,  veal  stock  Yolks  of  two  eggs 

i  pint  of  hot  milk  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  cobs  from  which  you  have  removed  the  corn  in  the 
boiling  water  or  stock  and  boil  slowly  half  an  hour.  Re- 


26  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

move  them,  put  in  the  corn  and  boil  till  very  soft,  about 
twenty  minutes,  then  press  it  through  a  sieve.  Season  and 
let  it  simmer  while  you  rub  the  butter  and  flour  together; 
add  these  to  the  soup  and  stir  it  constantly  until  it  thickens. 
Now  add  the  boiling  milk,  cook  one  minute,  then  add  the 
beaten  yolks,  and  serve  immediately. 

CREAM  OF  LIMA  BEAN  SOUP 

i  quart  of  very  young      i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

lima  beans  2  even  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

i  pint  of  milk  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

i  pint  of  veal  stock  Yolks  of  two  eggs 
Put  the  beans  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  boil 
slowly  thirty  minutes.  Drain  and  press  them  through  a 
colander.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Add 
the  beans  to  the  stock.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together ; 
add  to  the  boiling  milk;  stir  constantly  until  it  thickens. 
Now  add  this  to  the  stock.  Let  it  all  boil  up  once,  then 
add  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs. 

CREAM  OF  PEA  SOUP         No.  i 

Shell  half  a  peck  of  green  peas,  wash  the  pods,  put  them  into 
a  soup  kettle  with  plenty  of  cold  water;  boil  until  tender; 
drain  and  throw  away  the  pods.  Put  the  peas  into  this 
water  and  boil  them  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Take  out 
one  cup  of  the  peas  and  mash  the  rest  through  a  sieve. 
Put  them  back  again  into  the  soup  kettle  (the  soup  should 
now  measure  about  a  pint);  add  three  pints  of  rich  milk 
and  the  cup  of  peas ;  let  it  come  to  a  boil.  Rub  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  to  a 
smooth  paste  and  stir  into  the  soup ;  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  A  table- 
spoonful  of  white  sugar  and  a  sprig  of  mint  are  pleasant 
additions. 


1   t  SOUPS  27 

CREAM  OF  PEA  SOUP    No.  2 

I  pint  of  canned  peas      i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  quart  of  milk  2  even  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Press  the  peas  through  a  colander.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil 
in  a  farina  boiler;  as  soon  as  it  boils,  add  to  it  the  peas 
that  have  been  pressed  through  the  colander.  Rub  the 
butter  and  flour  together,  add  them  to  the  boiling  soup  and 
stir  constantly  until  it  thickens.  Add  salt  and  pepper 
and  serve  immediately. 

POTATO  SOUP 

4  good-sized  potatoes  Stalk  of  celery 

i  quart  of  milk  i  bay  leaf 

i  piece  of  onion  the  size  of      i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
a  silver  quarter  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

i  sprig  of  parsley  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  potatoes  on  to  boil  in  one  quart  of  cold  water. 
When  they  Are-  half  done  (about  fifteen  minutes)  drain  all 
the  water  off  and  cover  them  again  with  one  pint  of  fresh 
boiling  water;  add  the  bay  leaf,  onion,  parsley  and  celery, 
and  boil  until  the  potatoes  are  done.  Put  the  milk  on  to 
boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Now  press  the  potatoes  through  a 
sieve  or  vegetable  press.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together 
and  stir  into  the  boiling  milk  until  it  thickens.  Now  pour 
this  over  the  potatoes,  stir  until  smooth  and  serve  immedi- 
ately. This  soup  cannot  stand  or  be  warmed  over. 

CREAM    OF    RICE    SOUP 

%  teacupful  of  rice  ^  of  a  small  onion 

i  quart  of  white  stock  i  stalk  of  celery 

i  quart  of  cream  or  milk        i  bay  leaf 
i  tablespoonful  of  butter         Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Wash  the  rice  carefully,  add  it  to  the  cold  stock  with  the 
bay  leaf,   onion  and  celery.     Simmer  slowly  two  hours. 


28  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Press  it  through  a  sieve,  return  it  to  the  soup  kettle,  add 
the  butter,  cream  or  milk,  salt  and  pepper  and  stir  con- 
stantly, until  it  just  comes  to  a  boil,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve. 
Cream  of  barley  soup  may  be  made  the  same  as  above, 
simmering  the  barley  four  hours. 

CREAM    OF  SAGO    SOUP 

]/2  cupful  of  sago  Sprig  of  parsley 

i  quart  of  veal  or  white  stock  i  bay  leaf 

1  pint  of  cream  or  milk  i  small  onion 

2  even  tablespoon fuls  of  flour  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
Wash  the  sago  well  in  cold  water,  cover  with  clean  cold 
water  and  soak  three  hours.      Put  the  stock  in  the  soup 
kettle  with  the  onion,  parsley  and  bay  leaf.      Drain  the 
sago,  add  it  to  the  stock  and  simmer  slowly  for  half  an  hour. 
Now  take  out  the  onion,  bay  leaf  and  parsley.     Put  the 
milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.     Rub  the  butter  and  flour 
together  and  stir  into  the  milk  when  boiling.     Stir  con- 
stantly until  it  thickens.     Now  pour  this  into  the  soup 
kettle,  add  seasoning  and  serve. 

SALSIFY  or  OYSTER   PLANT    SOUP 

i  bunch  or  one  dozen  salsify  roots 
i  quart  of  milk 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Scrape  the  salsify,  cut  it  into  slices,  cover  it  with  boiling 
water,  about  one  pint,  and  boil  slowly  one  hour,  or  until 
tender ;  then  add  the  milk  (do  not  drain  off  the  water). 
Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together,  add  it,  six  whole  allspice, 
a  blade  of  mace  and  a  bay  leaf,  and  stir  the  soup  con- 
stantly until  it  boils,  add  the  seasoning  and  let  stand  on 
the  back  part  of  the  stove  for  ten  minutes.  Take  out 
the  bay  leaf  and  serve. 


SOUPS  29 

CREAM  OF  TAPIOCA  SOUP 

Cream  of  tapioca  soup  is  made  the  same  as  cream  of  sago 
soup,  using  a  half  cup  of  tapioca  instead  of  a  half  cup  of 
sago. 


CREAM    OF  TOMATO    or    MOCK  BISQUE    SOUP 

i  quart  of  milk 

i  pint  can  of  tomatoes,  or  one  pint  of 

stewed  tomatoes 
i  large  tablespoonful  of  butter 
i  bay  leaf 
Sprig  of  parsley 
Blade  of  mace 

1  teaspoon ful  of  sugar 

%  teaspoon  ful  of  baking  soda 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  flour 

Put  the  tomatoes  on  to  stew  with  the  bay  leaf,  parsley  and 
mace  ;  let  them  stew  for  fifteen  minutes.  Put  the  milk  on  to 
boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together, 
add  to  the  milk  when  boiling  and  stir  constantly  until 
it  thickens.  Now  press  the  tomatoes  through  a  sieve  and, 
if  ready  to  use  the  soup,  add  the  sugar  and  soda  to  the 
tomatoes,  and  then  the  boiling  milk  ;  stir  and  serve  imme- 
diately. It  must  not  go  on  the  fire  after  mixing  the  milk 
with  the  tomatoes,  or  it  will  separate.  If  you  are  not 
ready,  let  them  stand  on  the  fire  separately  and  mix  them 
when  wanted. 


FISH    SOUPS 


BISQUE  OF  LOBSTER 

2  hen  lobsters  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

2  quarts  of  veal  stock        i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
Season  with  salt,  black  and  cayenne  pepper 


30  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Boil  the  lobsters  and  open.  (See  directions  for  boiled  lob- 
sters.) Cut  the  meat  into  dice.  Bruise  the  shells  and 
small  claws  and  add  them  to  the  stock,  and  simmer  thirty 
minutes.  Pound  and  mix  the  spawn,  if  any,  the  fat,  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  meat,  part  of  the  coral,  the 
butter  and  flour,  until  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Strain  the  stock 
and  add  it  gradually  to  the  pulp,  stirring  all  the  while. 
Now  add  the  seasoning,  return  it  to  the  fire,  add  the  lobster 
meat  and  the  remainder  of  the  coral  rubbed  fine,  and 
serve  immediately. 

HALIBUT    SOUP 

i  pound  of  halibut  i  small  onion 

1  quart  of  milk  i  bay  leaf 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour        Sprig  of  parsley 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Put  the  fish  in  a  sauce-pan,  add  the  bay  leaf,  parsley  and 
onion,  cover  with  boiling  water  and  simmer  for  fifteen  min- 
utes. Take  the  fish  carefully  out  of  the  water,  remove  the 
centre  bone  and  skin  and  mash  the  flesh  fine  in  a  colander. 
(It  is  not  necessary  to  press  it  through.)  Put  the  milk  on 
to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  to- 
gether, add  to  the  milk  when  boiling,  stir  until  it  thickens, 
then  add  the  fish,  salt  and  pepper  ;  let  it  heat  up  thoroughly 
and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

Any  white  fish  may  be  used  in  place  of  halibut. 

CLAM  SOUP        No.  i 

25  clams  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

1^/2  pounds  of  veal  or  i  pint  of  milk  or  cream 

one  knuckle  i  bay  leaf 

1  quart  of  water  i  small  onion 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter     Sprig  of  parsley 

Put  the  veal  or  knuckle  into  a  soup  kettle  with  the  water, 
onion,  parsley,  bay  leaf  and  the  liquor  drained  from  the 
clams.  Simmer  slowly,  one  and  a  half  hours,  skimming 


SOUPS  31 

carefully.  Then  strain  the  soup  and  return  it  to  the  kettle. 
Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together,  add  to  the  soup  when 
boiling  and  stir  constantly  until  it  boils  again.  Chop  the 
clams  fine,  add  them  to  the  soup,  then  the  seasoning ;  let  all 
boil  five  minutes,  then  add  the  milk  or  cream  and  take  from 
the  fire  at  once.  If  you  boil  it  after  adding  the  milk  it  will 
curdle. 

CLAM  SOUP        No.  a 
50  clams  2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 

i  pint  of  milk         i  dozen  water  crackers 

i  pint  of  water       Pepper  to  taste 

Drain  the  clams  and  put  the  liquor  on  to  boil;  chop  the 
clams  fine.  Skim  the  liquor,  as  it  boils,  free  from  all  scum, 
then  add  the  water,  clams  and  pepper,  and  simmer  for  five 
minutes ;  add  the  butter  and  then  the  milk  ;  let  it  heat 
(but  not  boil).  Take  from  the  fire,  add  'the  crackers, 
broken  into  small  pieces,  and  serve  at  once. 

SALMON    SOUP 

i  pound  of  fresh  salmon      i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 
i  pint  of -milk  2  tablespoon  fuls  of  flour 

i  pint  of  veal  stock  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  salmon,  put  it  in  a  saucepan,  cover  it  with  boil- 
ing water  and  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes.  Take  from  the 
water,  remove  the  skin  and  bones  and  mash  the  flesh  in  a 
colander.  Put  the  milk  and  stock  on  to  boil.  Rub  the 
butter  and  flour  together,  add  them  to  the  stock  and  milk 
when  boiling,  stirring  constantly  until  it  thickens.  Now 
add  the  salmon,  let  it  come  to  a  boil  and  serve. 
Canned  salmon  may  be  used  in  place  of  fresh. 

GREEN  TURTLE   SOUP  (The  Caterer) 
The  day  before  you  intend  to  dress  the  turtle  cut  off  its  head; 
and  to  do  this  properly  you  should  hang  up  the  victim  with 
its  head  downwards,  use  a  very   sharp  knife  and  make  the 
incision  as  close  to  the  head  as  possible.     You  must  not  be 


32  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

surprised  at  seeing,  many  hours  after  the  decollation,  the 
creature  exhibit  extraordinary  signs  of  muscular  motion, 
by  the  flapping  of  his  fins.  Separate  the  upper  from  the 
lower  shell,  and  in  this  operation  be  very  careful  not  to 
touch  the  gall  bladder,  which  is  very  large  and,  if  pene- 
trated, would  completely  destroy  the  flesh  over  which  its 
contents  ran.  Cut  the  meat  of  the  breast  in  a  half-dozen 
pieces ;  abstract  the  gall  and  entrails  and  throw  them  away 
at  once.  Separate  the  fins  as  near  the  shell  as  possible, 
abstract  the  green  fat  and  put  it  on  a  separate  dish  from  the 
white  meat.  Boil  the  upper  and  lower  shells  in  water  suffi- 
ciently long  to  enable  you  to  take  away  the  bones.  Then 
remove  with  a  spoon  the  mucilage  that  you  find  adhering  to 
the  shells ;  put  this  also  in  a  separate  dish.  Into  the  largest 
stewpan  your  kitchen  affords  put  the  head,  fins,  liver, 
lights,  heart  and  all  the  flesh,  a  pound  of  ham,  nine  or 
ten  cloves,  a  couple  of  bay  leaves,  a  good-sized  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs  (such  as  winter  savory,  marjoram,  basil, 
thyme),  a  silver  onion  cut  into  slices  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley.  Cover  all  these  with  the  liquor  in  which  you  have 
boiled  the  shells  and  let  it  simmer  till  the  meat  be  thor- 
oughly done,  which  you  can  ascertain  by  pricking  with  a 
fork  and  observing  if  any  blood  exudes ;  when  none  ap- 
pears, strain  the  liquor  through  a  fine  sieve  and  return  it  to 
the  stewpan,  which  may  remain  at  some  distance  from  the 
fire.  Cut  the  meat  into  square  bits  of  about  an  inch.  Put 
the  herbs,  onion,  etc.,  into  a  separate  saucepan  with  four 
ounces  of  butter,  three  or  four  lumps  of  sugar  and  a  bottle 
of  Madeira ;  let  this  boil  slowly.  Whilst  this  is  doing,  melt 
in  another  saucepan  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  and,  when 
quite  dissolved,  thicken  it  with  flour,  but  do  not  make  it 
too  thick,  and  then  add  a  pint  of  the  liquor  from  the  shells ; 
let  this  boil  very  gently,  removing  the  scum  as  it  rises. 


SOUPS  33 

When  both  these  saucepans  are  ready,  strain  the  con- 
tents of  the  first  through  a  sieve,  and  this  done,  add  both 
to  the  stewpan.  Warm  up  the  liquor  from  the  shells,  the 
green  fat  and  mucilage  and  put  them  and  the  meat  into 
the  stewpan  with  the  yolks  of  a  dozen  hard-boiled  eggs, 
the  juice  of  half  a  dozen  green  limes  and  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  cayenne.  Gently  warm  up  the  whole  together,  and 
you  may  regard  your  cookery  as  complete.  Fill  as  many 
tureens  as  your  soup  will  permit,  and,  as  these  are  required 
for  the  table,  take  especial  care  to  warm  the  soup  before 
serving  by  putting  the  tureens  in  a  hot  water  bath  (bain- 
marie)  ;  boiling  it  up  a  second  time  would  deprive  this 
delicious  preparation  of  its  true  flavor. 

OYSTER   SOUP 

50  oysters  i  dozen  pepper-corns 

i  pint  of  cold  water     i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
i  pint  of  milk  i  tablespoonful  of  corn  starch 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  oysters  in  a  colander  to  drain,  then  pour  over  them 
the  cold  water  and  allow  it  to  drain  into  the  liquor.  Now 
pour  the  liquor  into  the  soup  kettle,  set  the  kettle  over  a 
good  fire  and  when  it  boils  skim  it.  Now  add  the  milk 
and  the  pepper-corns.  Rub  the  butter  and  corn  starch 
together  until  smooth  and  add  them  to  the  mixture  as  soon 
as  it  boils.  Stir  constantly  until  it  boils  again.  Wash  the 
oysters,  after  draining,  by  allowing  cold  water  to  run  over 
them  through  the  colander.  Now  add  them  to  the  soup, 
stir  continually,  until  it  comes  to  a  boil,  add  the  salt  and 
pepper.  Serve  immediately. 

Do  not  allow  the  oysters  to  boil,  as  it  destroys  their 
flavor  and  makes  them  tough.  But  be  equally  careful  that 
the  oysters  are  heated  through,  as  nothing  is  more  objec- 
tionable than  a  cold,  uncooked  oyster  in  a  hot  soup. 


CHOWDERS 


CLAM   CHOWDER 

50  clams 

i  pound  of  veal 
^  pound  bacon  or  ham 

pint  of  stewed  or  canned  tomatoes 
pint  of  water 
pint  of  milk 

6  water  crackers  or  three  sea  biscuit 
teaspoonful  of  thyme 
teaspoonful  of  sweet  marjoram 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
3  medium-sized  potatoes 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Line  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan  with  the  bacon  or  ham 
cut  into  dice.  Pare  and  cut  the  potatoes  into  dice.  Chop 
the  onion  fine.  Cut  the  veal  into  pieces  a  half-inch  square. 
Chop  the  clams.  Mash  the  crackers.  Now  put  a  layer  of 
the  potatoes  on  the  bacon  or  ham,  and  then  a  sprinkling 
of  onion,  thyme,  sweet  marjoram,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper, 
and  then  a  layer  of  veal,  then  tomatoes,  then  a  layer  of 
chopped  clams,  and  continue  these  alternations  until  it  is 
all  in,  having  the  last  layer  clams.  Now  add  the  water, 
which  should  be  boiling  and  barely  cover  the  whole. 
Cover  closely,  place  on  a  slow  fire  and  simmer  for  half  an 
hour  without  stirring.  Then  add  the  milk  and  crackers, 
stir  and  cook  ten  minutes  longer  and  serve  very  hot. 
The  tomatoes  may  be  omitted  if  not  liked. 

(34) 


CHOWDERS  35 

CORN    CHOWDER 

1  quart  of  grated  corn  3  tablespoon fuls  of  flour 
4  good-sized  potatoes  i  pint  of  milk 

2  medium-sized  onions  6  water  crackers 
y*  pound  of  bacon  or  ham           Yolk  of  one  egg 

i  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  ^  pint  of  boiling  water 
Pare  and  cut  the  potatoes  and  onions  into  dice.  Cut  the 
bacon  or  ham  into  small  pieces  and  put  it  into  a  frying- 
pan  with  the  onions  and  fry  until  a  nice  brown.  Put  a 
layer  of  potatoes  in  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan,  then  a 
sprinkling  of  bacon  or  ham  and  onion,  then  a  layer  of 
corn,  then  a  sprinkling  of  salt  and  pepper,  then  a  layer  of 
potatoes,  and  so  on,  until  all  is  in,  having  the  last  layer 
corn.  Now  add  the  water  and  place  over  a  very  moderate 
fire  and  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  add  the  milk. 
Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  and  stir  into  the  boiling 
chowder.  Add  the  crackers,  broken  ;  stir,  and  cook 
five  minutes  longer.  Taste  to  see  if  properly  seasoned, 
take  it  from  the  fire,  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  the  egg  and 
serve. 


FISH    CHOWDER 

3  pounds  of  fish  *£  pound  of  bacon  or  ham 

i  pint  of  milk  i  tablespoonful  of  thyme 

3  medium-sized  potatoes  i  teaspoonful    of    sweet 
i  quart  of  water  marjoram 

i  pint  of  stewed  or  canned  6  water  crackers  or  three 

tomatoes  sea  biscuit 

i  large-sized  onion  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Cut  the  fish,  the  potatoes,  the  onion,  and  bacon  or  ham, 
into  pieces  about  a  half-inch  square.  Now  put  the  bacon 
or  ham  and  the  onion  into  a  frying-pan,  stir  and  fry  them 
a  light  brown.  Put  a  layer  of  the  potatoes  in  a  sauce- 
pan, then  a  layer  of  fish,  then  a  sprinkling  of  onions 


36  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

and  bacon  or  ham,  then  a  layer  of  tomatoes,  then  a 
sprinkling  of  thyme  and  sweet  marjoram,  salt  and  pepper, 
and  continue  these  alternations  until  all  is  in,  having  the 
last  layer  potatoes.  Now  add  the  water.  Cover  closely, 
place  it  over  a  moderate  fire  and  let  it  simmer  twenty 
minutes  without  stirring.  In  the  meantime  put  the  milk  in 
a  farina  boiler  and  break  into  it.  the  crackers;  let  it  stand 
three  minutes.  Now  add  this  to  the  chowder,  stir,  let  it 
boil  once,  see  that  it  is  properly  seasoned  and  serve  very- 
hot. 

The  tomatoes  may  be  omitted  if  not  liked. 

POTATO    CHOWDER 

6  good-sized  potatoes  i  tablespoon ful  of  chopped 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  parsley 

i  good-sized  onion  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

%  pound  of  bacon  or  ham      i  pint  of  milk 

i  pint  of  water 

Pare  and  cut  the  potatoes  into  dice  and  chop  the  onion 
fine.  Cut  the  bacon  or  ham  into  small  pieces.  Put  the 
bacon  or  ham  and  the  onion  in  a  frying-pan  and  fry  until 
a  light  brown.  Now  put  a  layer  of  potatoes  in  the  bottom 
of  a  saucepan,  then  a  sprinkling  of  the  ham  or  bacon, 
onion,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  then  a  layer  of  potatoes, 
and  so  on  until  all  is  used.  Add  the  water,  cover  closely 
and  simmer  twenty  minutes.  Then  add  the  milk.  Rub 
the  butter  and  flour  together,  add  to  the  boiling  chowder 
and  stir  carefully  until  it  boils.  Taste  to  see  if  properly 
seasoned ;  if  not,  add  more  salt  and  pepper  and  serve. 


ADDITIONAL   RECIPES  37 


38  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


ADDITIONAL    RECIPES  39 


40  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


FISH 


The  flesh  of  all  fish  out  of  season  is  unwholesome;  to  be 
eatable  they  should  be  perfectly  fresh,  the  eyes  clear,  the  gills 
red,  the  scales  bright,  the  flesh  firm  and  free  from  any 
unpleasant  odor  and,  to  secure  the  best  flavor,  should  be 
cooked  as  soon  as  possible  after  leaving  the  sea,  river  or 
pond.  They  should  be  scaled  and  cleaned  as  soon  as 
they  come  home  from  the  market,  washed  quickly  without 
soaking,  removing  the  smallest  atom  of  blood.  Sprinkle 
salt  on  the  inside  and  put  them  in  a  cold  place  until 
wanted.  If  necessary  to  keep  them  over  night,  place 
where  the  moon  will  not  shine  on  them,  as  the  effect  is  as 
bad  as  the  hot  sunshine.  Cod,  haddock  and  halibut  may 
be  kept  a  day  before  using,  but  mackerel  and  whitefish 
lose  their  life  as  soon  as  they  leave  the  water.  The  fat  or  oil 
of  most  fish  is  found  in  their  livers,  consequently  the  flesh  is 
white.  Salmon,  herring,  mackerel,  sturgeon  and  catfish 
are  exceptions,  having  the  oil  distributed  throughout  the 
body,  thereby  giving  color  to  the  flesh. 

STOCK  FOR  BOILING  FISH 

5  pounds  of  haddock  4  whole  cloves 

1  onion  i  stalk  of  celery 

2  bay  leaves  2  sprigs  of  parsley 

3  quarts  of  cold  water 

(40 


42  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Clean  and  wash  the  fish,  cut  it  into  pieces  about  three 
inches  square;  put  it  into  a  soup  kettle,  with  the  water, 
onion,  bay  leaves,  cloves,  celery  and  parsley ;  place  it  over 
a  moderate  fire  and  skim  at  the  first  boil.  Simmer  gently 
for  two  hours,  then  strain,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and 
it  is  ready  for  use. 

This  makes  a  nice  soup  for  Lent,  served  clear,  with 
croutons. 

BOILED    FISH 

Wash  the  fish  well  in  cold  water.  Wipe  it  carefully,  and 
rub  it  with  a  little  salt.  Wrap  it  in  a  cloth ;  cheese  cloth 
will  answer.  Have  the  cloth  just  large  enough  to  envelop 
the  fish.  Sew  the  edges  so  that  there  will  be  but  one  thick- 
ness of  the  cloth  over  any  part  of  the  fish.  Now  put  it 
into  a  fish  kettle  if  you  have  one  ;  if  not  you  may  lay  it  on 
a  platter,  tie  fish  and  platter  together  in  a  cloth  and  put  it 
in  the  bottom  of  a  large  saucepan.  Cover  with  boiling 
water,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  simmer  very  gently 
ten  minutes  to  every  pound  of  fish.  Take  the  fish  from  the 
water  the  moment  it  is  done;  drain,  remove  the  cloth  care- 
fully, turn  the  fish  on  to  the  plate ;  garnish  with  slices 
of  lemon  and  parsley.  Serve  with  either  shrimp,  oyster, 
Hollandaise  or  caper  sauce,  or  plain  drawn  butter. 

All  cold  boiled  fish  left  may  be  utilized  in  making 
salads,  croquettes  or  a  la  cremes. 

This  is  a  general  rule  for  boiling  all  kinds  of  fish. 

BOILED  SALMON  STEAKS 

Have  the  steak  about  two  inches  thick;  wrap  in  a  cloth, put 
in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
simmer  twenty  minutes.  Serve  with  lobster  or  shrimp  sauce. 
Rub  the  coral  of  the  lobster  fine  and  sprinkle  over  the  fish. 
Halibut  steaks  may  be  boiled  and  served  in  the  same  way. 


FISH  43 

TO  BOIL  SALT  CODFISH 

Wash  the  fish  well  in  cold  water.  Cover  it  with  fresh  cold 
water  and  soak  over  night.  In  the  morning,  wash  it  again  ; 
put  it  into  a  kettle,  cover  with  cold  water,  place  over  a 
hot  fire  and  bring  it  to  boiling  point.  Now  stand  it  over 
a  more  moderate  fire  for  four  hours.  If  it  boils,  the  fish 
will  become  hard.  When  done,  dish  and  serve  with  drawn 
butter. 


TO  FRY  FISH 

"  Small  fish  should  nvim  twice,  once  in  water  and  once  in  oil" 

Perch,  brook  trout,  catfish  and  all  small  fish  are  best 
fried.  They  should  be  cleaned,  washed  well  in  cold 
water  and  immediately  wiped  dry,  inside  and  outside,  with 
a  clean  towel,  and  then  sprinkled  with  salt.  Use  oil  if  con- 
venient, as  it  is  very  much  better  than  either  dripping  or 
lard.  Never  use  butter  as  it  is  apt  to  burn  and  has  a  ten- 
dency to  soften  the  fish.  See  that  the  oil,  lard  or  dripping 
is  /W/X/^hot,  before  putting  in  the  fish.  Throw  in  a  crumb 
of  bread ;  if  it  browns  quickly,  it  is  hot  enough  and  the 
fish  will  not  absorb  any  grease. 


FRIED   SMELTS 

To  clean  them,  make  a  slight  opening  at  the  gills,  then 
draw  them  between  the  thumb  and  finger,  beginning  at  the 
tail.  This  will  press  out  all  the  insides.  Wash  and  wipe 
them.  Now  sprinkle  them  with  salt;  dip  them  first  in 
beaten  eggs,  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling 
fat.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve 
with  sauce  Tartare. 

Ail  small  fish  may  be  fried  in  the  same  way. 


44  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

FRIED  HALIBUT 

Cut  the  halibut  steak  into  pieces  about  two  inches  square. 
Beat  an  egg,  same  as  for  fried  oysters ;  season  the  halibut 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  first  in  the  egg,  then  in  bread 
crumbs,  and  fry  a  nice  brown  in  boiling  fat.  Lay  on  brown 
paper  to  drain  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish*. 


FRIED    WHITEFISH  ETC. 

Scale  and  wash  the  fish.  Trim  off  the  fins  and  take  out 
the  gills.  Wipe  it  dry  immediately.  Dredge  it  with  salt, 
pepper  and  flour.  Put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  dripping  or 
lard  in  a  frying-pan  ;  when  hot,  put  the  fish  into  it.  Brown 
on  one  side,  then  turn  and  brown  on  the  other.  When 
done,  take  out  carefully,  put  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with 
parsley  and  serve. 

Bass,  bluefish,  porgies,  flounders,  weakfish  and  herring 
may  be  fried  in  the  same  way. 

TO  BROIL  FISH 

This  is  one  of  the  nicest  ways  of  cooking  shad,  bluefish, 
mackerel,  salmon  and  the  large  trout.  Always  use  a 
double  broiler.  Rub  it  well  with  a  piece  of  suet  before  put- 
ting the  fish  in.  A  fish  weighing  four  pounds  will  take 
half  an  hour  to  cook  over  a  clear  but  moderate  fire.  The 
flesh  side  should  be  first  exposed  to  the  fire,  then  the  skin. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  burn  the  skin  side.  When 
the  fish  is  done,  separate  it  carefully  from  the  broiler  with 
a  knife  so  as  not  to  break  the  nice  brown  outside.  Sprin- 
kle with  salt  and  pepper,  and  spread  it  with  butter,  stand  it 
in  the  oven  for  a  moment  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

For  broiling,  the  fish  should  be  cleaned  and  split  down 
the  back,  leaving  on  the  head  and  tail. 


FISH  4o 

BROILED  HALIBUT  or  SALMON 

Have  the  steak  cut  one  inch  thick,  wash  it  quickly  and  care- 
fully, dry  it  with  a  towel,  place  it  on  a  broiler  and  broil 
over  a  clear  fire  (not  too  hot)  for  ten  minutes  or  until  a 
nice  brown  on  one  side ;  then  turn  and  broil  on  the  other 
side.  Put  on  a  hot  dish,  spread  with  butter,  dredge 
with  salt  and  pepper  on  both  sides,  garnish  with  pars- 
ley and  serve. 
« 

HALIBUT  STEAK  a  la  FLAMANDE 

Take  a  halibut  steak  an  inch  and  a  half  thick,  wash  and 
wipe  it  dry.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  roasting  pan,  sprinkle 
it  with  chopped  onion,  salt  and  pepper;  put  the  fish  on 
top  of  this,  brush  it  over  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  sprinkle 
thickly  with  chopped  onion,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper, 
pour  over  it  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  cover  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  cut  into  small  bits  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  thirty  minutes.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish, 
with  Bechamel  sauce  and  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon 
and  parsley. 


BROILED  MACKEREL  (Salt) 

Wash  and  scrape  all  the  thin  black  skin  from  the  inside. 
Soak  the  fish  in  a  large  pan  full  of  cold  water  over  night. 
In  the  morning  wash  it  in  fresh  water  and  wipe  it.  Brush  it 
with  melted  butter,  dredge  lightly  with  pepper,  lay  it  on 
a  greased  broiler  and  broil  with  the  flesh  side  down  over  a 
clear  fire  ;  then  turn  and  broil  the  skin  side.  Be  careful 
as  it  will  burn  very  quickly  on  this  side.  When  done 
lay  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  spread  with  butter  or  serve  with 
maitre  d' hotel  sauce. 


46  PHILADELPHIA     COOK   BOOK 

BROILED  SMOKED  SALMON 

Cut  a  piece  of  the  salmon  the  size  you  wish.  Wash  it  well 
in  cold  water,  then  cover  it  with  boiling  water  and  let  it 
stand  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove  where  it  will  keep  warm 
(not  hot)  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Then  take  it  out, 
wipe  dry  and  broil  the  same  as  mackerel. 

BAKED  SHAD 

Scrape  free  from  all  scales,  make  a  short  opening  down  the 
belly  and  take  out  the  insides;  wash  well  inside  and  out 
and  immediately  wipe  dry  with  a  clean  towel.  Rub  it  well 
with  salt.  Make  a  dressing  of  one  cup  of  stale  bread 
crumbs,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little 
black  pepper ;  mix  well  and  stuff  the  body  of  the  fish  and 
sew  it  up  with  soft  yarn.  Now  score  one  side  of  the  fish 
with  a  sharp  knife,  making  the  scores  about  an  inch  apart, 
and  put  a  strip  of  salt  pork  in  each  gash.  Grease  a  tin 
sheet,  if  you  have  one,  place  it  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking- 
pan,  put  the  fish  on  it,  dredge  thickly  with  salt,  pepper 
and  flour ;  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  boiling  water 
and  put  into  a  hot  oven.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  to  every 
pound  of  fish,  basting  each  ten  minutes  with  the  gravy  in 
the  pan.  As  the  water  evaporates  add  more  to  again  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  pan.  When  done,  lift  the  tin  sheet 
from  the  pan  and  slide  the  fish  carefully  into  the  centre  of 
the  dish  on  which  it  is  to  be  served ;  garnish  with  slices 
of  lemon,  fried  potato  balls  and  parsley  ;  serve  with 
sauce  Hollandaise  or  roe  sauce.  If  you  have  no  tin  sheet, 
place  the  fish  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-pan  and  when 
done  loosen  it  carefully  and  slide  it  into  the  dish.  Rock 
fish  may  be  baked  in  exactly  the  same  manner. 


FISH  47 

PLANKED  SHAD 
This  is  the  very  best  way  of  cooking  shad  : — 

The  plank  should  be  three  inches  thick,  two  feet  long, 
one  and  a  half  feet  wide  and  of  well-seasoned  hickory  or 
oak.  Pine  or  soft  wood  gives  the  fish  a  woody  taste.  Take 
a  fine  shad  just  from  the  water,  scale,  split  it  down  the 
back,  clean  it,  wash  well  and  immediately  wipe  dry.  Dredge 
it  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  the  plank  before  a  clear  fire 
to  get  VERY  HOT.  Then  spread  the  shad  open  and  nail  it, 
skin  side  next  to  the  hot  plank,  with  four  large-headed 
tacks.  Put  it  before  the  fire  with  the  large  end  down  ;  in 
a  few  minutes  turn  the  board  so  that  the  other  end  will  be 
down,  and  do  this  every  few  minutes  until  the  fish  is  done. 
To  tell  when  it  is  done  pierce  it  with  a  fork ;  if  the  flesh  be 
flaky  it  is  done.  Spread  with  butter  and  serve  on  the 
plank  or  draw  the  tacks  carefully  and  slide  the  shad  on  to 
a  hot  dish. 

The  whitefish  caught  in  the  lakes  are  excellent  when 
cooked  in  this  manner. 

HOW  TO  CURE  AND  SMOKE  SHAD  ETC. 
Scale,  cut  the  fish  up  the  back,  clean,  and  take  out  the  roe. 
Wipe  the  fish  with  a  damp  cloth  but  do  not  wash  them. 
To  twenty  pounds  of  fish  allow  one  pint  of  salt,  one  pint 
brown  sugar  and  one  ounce  of  saltpetre.  Mix  these  all 
well  together.  Rub  the  fish  well  inside  and  out  with  this 
mixture.  Put  one  fish  over  the  other  with  a  board  on  top, 
and  on  this  place  heavy  weights  to  press  them  down. 
Allow  them  to  remain  so  for  sixty  hours,  then  drain 
them,  wipe  dry,  stretch  open  and  fasten  with  small  pieces 
of  stick.  Smoke  them  for  five  days  in  a  smoke-house  or  in 
a  box,  or  some  such  place,  over  a  smothered  wood  fire. 

Whitefish,  salmon  and  other  large  fish  may  be  smoked 
in  the  same  way. 


48  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

CODFISH  BALLS 

2  cups  of  picked  codfish  (salt)    i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 
2  cups  of  mashed  potatoes       y£  cup  of  cream 

^  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper 

Pick  the  codfish  into  small  pieces ;  soak  it  in  cold  water  for 
half  an  hour ;  then  drain  and  pour  over  it  enough  boiling 
water  to  cover ;  let  it  stand  on  back  part  of  the  fire  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Drain  and  press  out  all  the  water,  then 
mix  it  with  the  potatoes,  which  should  be  well  beaten,  add 
all  the  other  ingredients,  beat  well.  Form  into  balls,  roll 
first  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs  and  fry  in 
boiling  fat  or  oil. 

STEWED  SALT  CODFISH 

1  cup  of  picked  codfish  i  quart  of  milk 

2  medium-sized  potatoes        ^  cup  of  bread  crumbs 
Butter  the  size  of  an  egg         Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Cover  the  codfish  with  cold  water  and  soak  two  hours. 
Pare  and  cut  the  potatoes  into  dice,  put  them  in  a  stewing- 
pan,  cover  them  with  boiling  water  and  boil  until  tender ; 
drain,  add  to  them  the  milkf  the  butter  and  the  bread 
crumbs.  Drain  the  fish  and  scald  it,  and  drain  again ;  add 
it  to  the  other  ingredients,  let  it  boil  up  once,  add  salt  and 
pepper  and  serve  very  hot. 

SALT  CODFISH  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE 

2  cups  of  picked  codfish  i  large  tablespoonful  of 

1  pint  of  milk  butter 

2  even  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  Yolk  of  one  egg 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Cover  the  codfish  with  cold  water  and  let  it  soak  two  hours ; 
drain,  cover  with  lukewarm  water  and  stand  it  on  the  back 
part  of  the  fire,  where  it  will  not  get  scalding  hot,  for  one 
hour  more.  Then  drain  it  free  from  all  water.  Put  the 
butter  in  a  frying-pan  ;  when  melted,  add  the  flour  and  mix ; 


FISH  49 

then  add  the  milk,  stir  constantly  until  it  boils,  add  the  fish, 
salt  and  pepper  and  stir  until  hot.  Take  from  the  fire, 
add  the  yolk  of  the  egg  and  serve  immediately  with  plain 
boiled  potatoes. 

FISH   a   la    REINE 

i  pound  of  cold  boiled  fish     Yolk  of  one  egg 
i  tablespoonful  of  butter      3  chopped  mushrooms 
i  tablespoonful  of  flour         i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
YV  pint  of  milk  or  cream  parsley 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Pick  the  fish  into  small  pieces.  Put  the  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan  and,  when  melted,  add  the  flour,  mix,  then  add  the 
milk  and  stir  constantly  until  it  boils.  Add  the  fish,  mush- 
rooms, salt  and  pepper  and  stand  the  frying-pan  over  the 
tea-kettle  until  the  fish  is  thoroughly  heated.  Now  beat  the 
yolk  of  the  egg  lightly,  add  it  and  the  parsley,  mix  all 
carefully  together  and  serve  at  once  in  paper  cases  or  shells. 

CUSK   a   la  CREME 
i  pint  of  pieces  of  cold^      i  bay  leaf 

cooked  fish  i  sprig  of  parsley 

Yolks  of  two  eggs  i  small  piece  of  onion 

i  pint  of  milk  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  blade  of  mace  2  tablespoon fuls  of  flour 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler,  add  to  it  the 
mace,  onion,  parsley  and  the  bay  leaf.  Rub  the  butter 
and  flour  together  and  stir  into  the  milk  when  boiling, 
cook  two  minutes,  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
take  from  the  fire  and  strain.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Put  a  layer  of  this  sauce  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking- 
dish,  then  a  layer  of  the  fish,  then  another  layer  of  the 
sauce,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used,  having  the  last  layer 
sauce.  Sprinkle  the  top  lightly  with  bread  crumbs  and 
put  in  the  oven  until  a  nice  brown.  Serve  in  the  same  dish. 
This  may  also  be  served  in  individual  dishes. 


50  PHILADELPHIA     COOK  BOOK 

DEVILED    HALIBUT 

This  is  made  the  same  as  deviled  crabs,  using  one  pound 
of  cold  boiled  halibut  instead  of  one  dozen  crabs.  Serve 
in  clam  or  scallop  shells. 


SALMON   CROQUETTES 
i  pound  or  one  can  of  cold         Juice  of  half  a  lemon 

boiled  salmon  A  little  cayenne 

i  teaspoon ful  of  salt  i  cup  of  cream 

i  tablespoonful     of    chopped     i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
parsley  3  tablespoon fuls  of  flour 

Chop  the  salmon  fine  and  add  to  it  the  salt,  parsley,  lemon 
juice  and  cayenne.  Mix  thoroughly.  Put  the  cream  on 
to  boil.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  until  smooth 
and  then  stir  them  into  the  boiling  cream.  Stir  and  cook  two 
minutes;  season  it  lightly.  Now  stir  this  into  the  salmon; 
mix  well  and  turn  out  on  a  dish  to  cool.  When  cool,  form 
into  cork-shaped  croquettes;  roll  first  in  beaten  egg,  then 
bread  crumbs  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Serve  on  a  napkin, 
garnish  with  parsley. 


SHAD  ROE  CROQUETTES 

2  shad  roes  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice 

y&  pint  of  cream  i  large  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Yolks  of  two  eggs         2  large  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
}£  of  a  grated  nutmeg  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 

Salt,  cayenne  and  black  pepper 

Wash  the  shad  roes,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  cover  and  simmer  slowly 
fifteen  minutes.  Then  take  them  out,  remove  the  skin  and 
mash  them.  Put  the  cream  on  to  boil.  Rub  the  butter  and 
flour  together,  add  them  to  the  boiling  cream  and  stir  until 
it  is  very  thick ;  add  the  yolks,  take  from  the  fire  and  add 
all  the  other  ingredients,  mix  well  and  turn  out  on  a  dish 


FISH  51 

to  cool.  When  cold  form  into  croquettes,  either  pyramids 
or  rolls,  dip  first  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs 
and  fry  in  boiling  oil  or  fat.  Serve  with  sauce  Hollandaise. 

STEWED    CARP 

Scale  the  fish,  cut  off  the  head,  tail  and  fins.  Mix  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  a 
quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  mace  together,  and  rub  the 
carp  inside  and  out  with  it.  Stand  it  in  a  cold  place  for 
one  and  a  half  hours.  Then  put  it  into  a  kettle,  as  for 
boiled  fish,  and  cover  it  with  boiling  water  ;  add  one  small 
onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  one  bay  leaf  and  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  sweet  marjoram;  let  this  simmer  ten  minutes  to  every 
pound.  When  done,  dish  and  serve  with  cream  sauce. 

PICKLED    SALMON 

A  ten -pound  salmon  i  small  red  pepper 

2  quarts  of  good  cider  vinegar  1 2  pepper-corns 
4  blades  of  mace  2  tablespoonfuls  of  whole 

12  whole  cloves  mustard 

1  small  onion  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 

2  bay  leaves  *^  pint  of  boiling  water 
Clean  the  salmon  and  wash  it  well  in  cold  water.    Put  it  into 
a  kettle,  cover  it  with  boiling  water,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
salt  and  boil  fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound.     If  you  have 
to  cut  your  fish,  boil  only  ten  minutes  to  every  pound. 
When  done,  drain,  wipe   dry   and   stand  in  a  cold  place 
over  night.     In  the  morning  take  off  the  skin  and  cut  the 
flesh  into  nice  convenient  pieces.       Put  the  vinegar  and 
all  the  other  ingredients  into  a  porcelain  kettle  and  bring 
them  to  a  boil.    Now  drop  the  salmon  carefully  into  this  and 
let  all  boil  up  once.     Rinse  six  or  seven  air-tight  glass  jars 
with  hot  water,  carefully  take  the  salmon  from  the  kettle 
with  a  spoon,  drop   it   rapidly   into   a    jar,  until    it    will 


52  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

hold  no  more  ;  now  fill  with  the  boiling  liquor  to  the  very 
brim,  screw  on  the  top  and  stand  to  one  side.  Proceed  in 
this  manner  until  all  the  jars  are  filled.  Then  wipe  them 
off;  see  that  they  are  all  screwed  up  well.  Stand  in  a 
cool,  dark,  dry  place  and  it  will  keep  good  for  a  year. 

PICKLED   HALIBUT 

Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  for  pickled  salmon,  using 
ten  pounds  of  halibut  in  one  piece,  instead  of  the  salmon. 

STURGEON 

PICKLED    STURGEON 
6  pounds  of  sturgeon        3  blades  of  mace 
\y2  quarts  of  good  cider         i  tablespoonful  of  mustard 
vinegar  seed 

1  onion  12  pepper-corns 

2  bay  leaves  i  small  red  pepper 

1 2  whole  cloves  i  tablespoonful  of  loaf  sugar 

Skin  the  fish  and  let  it  soak  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour. 
Then  put  it  in  a  kettle,  cover  it  with  boiling  water  and 
parboil  fifteen  minutes  to  remove  the  oily  taste.  Now 
drain  and  stand  it  in  a  cold  place  until  the  next  day,  then 
finish  same  as  pickled  salmon. 

STEWED    STURGEON 

Cut  two  pounds  of  the  fish  into  pieces  about  two  inches 
square,  put  them  into  a  stewing-pan  and  cover  with  boil- 
ing water.  Simmer  gently  for  fifteen  minutes  to  extract 
the  strong  oily  flavor.  Now  drain  off  the  water,  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  then  salt  and  pepper;  cover  the 
saucepan  and  stew  until  tender,  about  twenty  minutes.  Then 
add  half  a  pint  of  milk.  Moisten  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour  with  a  little  cold  water,  mix  until  smooth,  then  add  it 
to  the  sturgeon  to  thicken  the  gravy,  boil  up  and  serve  hot. 


FISH  53 

BROILED     STURGEON 

Take  two  pounds  of  sturgeon  steaks,  wash  well,  skin  and 
parboil  fifteen  minutes ;  drain  and  wipe  dry ;  dredge 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  broil  over  a  clear,  mild  fire. 
Pour  over  them  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  serve 
on  a  hot  dish  and  garnish  with  parsley  and  lemon  cut  into 
quarters,  or  they  may  be  spread  with  maitre  d' hotel  sauce. 

BAKED    STURGEON 

Take  a  piece  of  sturgeon  weighing  six  pounds,  wash  it  well, 
skin  it  and  parboil  for  twenty  minutes.  Put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  bacon  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-pan,  place  the 
sturgeon  on  top  of  it,  add  a  little  water  to  keep  it  from 
burning  and  bake  one  hour,  basting  every  ten  minutes. 
Serve  with  drawn  butter. 


EELS 


STEWED   EELS 

6  nice  eels  i  bay  leaf 

i  pint  of  veal  or  fish  stock      i  small  onion 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter        i  sprig  of  parsley 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour         Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Skin  and  clean  the  eels,  cut  off  their  heads   and  then  cut 
them  into  pieces  about  two  inches  long;  put  them  into  a 
stewing-pan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  vinegar  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes ;  then  drain  them. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  the  flour,  mix  well 
and  add  all  the  other  ingredients  ;  stir  constantly  until  it 
boils;  then  put  the  eels  into  this  sauce  and  stew  for  half  an 
hour.      When  done,  dish  the  eels,  strain   the  sauce  over 
them  and  garnish  with  sippets  fried  in  butter. 


54  .PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

FRIED    EELS 

Skin  and  clean  the  eels.  Cut  them  into  pieces  about  three 
inches  long ;  put  them  in  a  stewing-pan,  cover  with  boiling 
water,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  to  every  six  eels; 
simmer  five  minutes.  Drain  and  dry  them  with  a  towel. 
Beat  an  egg  lightly,  add  to  it  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling- 
water,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  the  eels  first  in  this 
and  then  in  bread  crumbs  and  fry  in  boiling  oil  or  fat 
until  a  nice  brown.  Serve  with  sauce  Tartare. 


FROGS 


FRIED   FROGS 

The  hind  legs  of  frogs  are  the  only  part  used  as  food.  They 
are  usually  sold  skinned  in  the  markets ;  but  if  you  get 
them  out  of  town,  they  must  be  skinned  and  thrown  into 
boiling  water  for  five  minutes ;  take  out  and  put  them  in 
cold  water  until  cold,  then  wipe  dry.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  dredge  with  flour  and  fry  a  nice  brown 
in  butter.  Serve  with  fried  parsley  around  them,  or  with 
cream  sauce. 


STEWED    FROGS 

i  dozen  frogs  y,,  pint  of  stock 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter        Yolk  of  one  egg 
i  tablespoonful  of  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Prepare  the  frogs  same  as  for  frying.  Put  the  butter  in  a 
frying-pan ;  when  brown  add  the  flour,  mix  until  smooth, 
add  the  stock  and,  when  it  boils,  throw  in  the  frogs  and 
simmer  ten  minutes ;  add  salt  and  pepper,  take  from  the 
fire,  add  the  beaten  yolk  and  serve  at  once. 


FISH  55 

LOBSTERS 

Never  buy  a  dead  lobster.  Choose  the  smaller  ones  that 
are  heavy  for  their  size  ;  the  larger  ones  are  coarse  and 
tough.  They  should  be  perfectly  fresh  and  very  lively. 
The  male  lobster  is  preferred  for  eating  and  the  female  for 
sauces  and  soups.  The  female  has  a  broader  tail  and  less 
claws  than  the  male.  If  possible,  always  boil  the  lobster 
at  home  ;  but  in  some  localities,  where  it  is  a  necessity  to 
buy  them  boiled,  see  that  the  tail  is  stiff  and  elastic,  so  that 
when  you  bend  it  out,  it  springs  back  immediately ;  other- 
wise they  were  dead  before  boiling.  Lobsters  boiled  when 
dead  are  watery  and  soft ;  they  are  very  unwholesome,  even 
to  a  dangerous  degree. 

TO  BOIL  AND  OPEN  A  LOBSTER 
Fill  a  kettle  with  warm  water  (not  boiling),  put  in  the  lob- 
ster head  downward,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  cover  the 
kettle  and  stand  it  over  a  very  quick  fire.  They  suffer 
less  by  being  put  into  warm  than  in  boiling  water. 
In  the  latter  they  are  killed  by  heat,  in  warm  water 
they  are  smothered.  A  medium-sized  lobster  should  boil 
half  an  hour ;  a  larger  one  three-quarters.  Cooking  them 
too  long  makes  them  tough,  and  the  meat  will  stick  to  the 
shell.  When  done  and  cool,  separate  the  tail  from  the 
body  and  twist  off  all  the  claws ;  shake  out  carefully  the 
torn-alley  (this  is  the  liver  of  the  lobster  and  may  be  known 
by  its  greenish  color) ;  also  the  coral.  Then  draw  the 
body  from  the  shell,  remove  the  stomach  (sometimes 
called  the  lady),  which  is  found  immediately  under  the 
head,  and  throw  this  away.  Now  split  the  body  through  the 
centre  and  pick  the  meat  from  the  cells.  Cut  the  under 
side  of  the  tail  shell,  loosen  the  meat  and  take  it  out 
in  one  solid  piece.  Now  split  the  meat  of  the  tail  open 
and  you  will  uncover  a  little  vein  running  its  entire 


5(5  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

length,  this  remove.  The  vein  is  not  always  the  same 
color;  sometimes  it  is  red,  sometimes  black  and  sometimes 
white;  but  in  all  cases  it  must  be  carefully  taken  out  and 
thrown  away.  The  stomach  or  lady,  the  vein  and  the  spongy 
fingers  between  the  body  and  shell,  are  the  only  parts  not 
eatable.  Crack  the  claws  and  take  out  the  meat. 

To  serve  plain  boiled  lobster,  arrange  the  meat  thus 
taken  out  in  the  centre  of  a  cold  dish,  garnishing  with  the 
claws,  sprigs  of  fresh  parsley,  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into 
quarters  and  pickled  beets  cut  into  fancy  shapes.  Let  each 
person  season  to  suit  one's  self. 

LOBSTER    FARCI 

2  cups  of  boiled  lobster 

Yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs 

i  tablespoon ful  of  chopped  parsley 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  bread  crumbs 
y2  pint  of  milk 

i  even  tablespoonful  of  flour 
i^  nutmeg,  grated 
Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste. 

Cut  the  lobster  into  small  pieces.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil. 
Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  and  stir  into  the  milk 
when  boiling ;  stir  until  smooth,  take  from  the  fire,  add  the 
bread  crumbs,  parsley,  lobster,  hard-boiled  eggs  mashed  fine, 
salt  and  cayenne;  mix  all  well  together.  Be  careful  when 
opening  the  lobster  not  to  break  the  body  or  tail  shells. 
Wash  the  shells  and  wipe  them  dry,  and  with  a  sharp 
knife  or  scissors  cut  off  the  under  part  of  the  shell.  Now 
join  the  large  ends  of  the  two  tail  shells  to  the  body,  forming 
a  boat.  Put  the  farce  into  these  shells,  brush  it  over  the 
top  with  beaten  egg,  sprinkle  lightly  with  bread  crumbs 
and  place  in  a  quick  oven  for  fifteen  minutes  to  brown. 
Serve  hot  in  the  shells  garnished  with  parsley. 


FISH  57 

LOBSTER  CHOPS 

2  cups  of  boiled  lobster         i  cup  of  cream  or  milk 

3  tablespoon fuls  of  flour        i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  ^  of  a  nutmeg 

parsley  Yolks  of  two  eggs 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Add  all  the  seasoning  to  the  lobster.  Put  the  cream  or 
milk  on  to  boil,  rub  the  butter  and  flour  together,  and  add 
to  the  cream  or  milk  when  boiling.  Now  add  the  beaten 
yolks  and  cook  two  minutes.  Take  from  the  fire  and  add 
the  lobster.  Mix  well ;  turn  out  on  a  dish  to  cool.  When 
cool,  form  into  chops,  roll  first  in  beaten  egg,  then  in 
bread  crumbs ;  put  them  in  a  frying-basket  and  fry  in 
boiling  oil  or  dripping  until  a  nice  brown.  It  will  take 
about  two  minutes.  Drain,  and  arrange  them  on  a  hot 
dish  ;  put  the  end  of  a  small  claw  in  each  chop  to  represent 
the  mutton  bone.  Garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  with 
cream  or  Tartare  sauce. 


DEVILED    LOBSTER 

Deviled  lobster  is  made  the  same  as  deviled  crabs,  using 
two  cups  of  boiled  lobster  cut  fine,  instead  of  the  dozen 
crabs.  Serve  in  the  lobster  shells.  This  will  require  two 
small  lobsters. 

SCALLOPED   LOBSTER 

6  pounds  of  lobster,  live  weight 
YI  pint  of  milk 
i  large  tablespoonful  of  butter 
i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
^  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together 
and  stir  into  the  milk  when  boiling.  Boil  the  lobsters, 


58  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

open  as  directed  and  cut  the  meat  into  dice.  Put  a  layer 
of  the  white  sauce  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish,  then  a 
layer  of  lobster,  season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  then  a  sprink- 
ling of  parsley  and  bread  crumbs,  then  another  layer  of 
white  sauce,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used,  having  the  last 
layer  sauce,  sprinkled  over  with  bread  crumbs.  Put  in  a 
quick  oven  fifteen  minutes  to  brown.  Serve  in  the  dish. 

LOBSTER  WITH   CECIL  SAUCE 

Boil  a  three-pound  lobster  and  open  as  directed.  Cut  the 
meat  into  pieces  about  one  inch  square.  Put  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and,  when  melted,  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour ;  mix  until  smooth,  add  one  gill  of 
cream,  one  gill  of  stock,  and  stir  constantly  until  it  boils ; 
add  the  lobster,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Heat  thoroughly, 
take  from  the  fire,  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  This  may  be  served  in 
paper  cases  or  individual  dishes. 

LOBSTER  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE 

i  lobster  (3  pounds,  live  weight)  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
i  tablespoonful  of  flour  ^  pint  of  milk 

5  mushrooms  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Boil  and  open  the  lobster  as  directed.  Cut  it  into  dice. 
Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and,  when  melted,  add  the 
flour  ;  do  not  brown,  but  mix  until  smooth ;  add  the  milk, 
stir  constantly  until  it  boils ;  add  the  mushrooms  chopped 
fine,  salt,  pepper  and  the  lobster;  stir  until  thoroughly 
heated.  Serve  in  paper  cases. 


CRABS 

Crabs,  like  lobsters,  are  sold  alive,  or  boiled  j  they  should 
be  heavy  for  t'fteir  size. 


FISH  59 

TO   BOIL  CRABS 

Take  one  dozen  heavy  crabs  and  boil,  the  same  as  lobster, 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  done  and  cold,  twist 
off  the  claws,  take  off  the  upper  shells  and  remove  the 
spongy  substance  on  the  outside.  See  that  the  under  part 
is  free  from  sand.  Arrange  them  nicely  on  a  flat  dish,  gar- 
nish with  parsley  and  serve  with  them  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and 
pepper,  allowing  each  person  to  dress  his  own. 

DEVILED  CRABS 

12  nice,  heavy  crabs  i  tablespoonful  of  salt 

YZ  pint  of  cream,  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour        i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
Y±  of  a  nutmeg,  grated  parsley 

Yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs  Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 
Put  the  crabs  in  warm  water,  add  the  salt  and  put  the  kettle 
over  a  brisk  fire.  Boil  thirty  minutes.  Take  up  and  drain  ; 
break  off  all  the  claws,  separate  the  shells,  remove  the 
spongy  fingers,  and  the  stomach,  which  is  found  under  the 
head.  Pick  out  all  the  meat.  Put  the  cream  on  to  boil ; 
rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  and  add  to  the  boiling 
milk ;  stir  and  cook  for  two  minutes.  Take  from  the  fire 
and  add  the  crab  meat,  the  yolks  of  the  hard-boiled  eggs 
mashed  fine,  the  parsley,  the  nutmeg,  salt  and  cayenne. 
Clean  the  upper  shells  of  the  crabs,  fill  them  with  the 
mixture,  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  cover  with  bread 
crumbs  and  put  in  a  quick  oven  to  brown ;  or  better, 
put  them  in  a  frying-basket  and  plunge  into  boiling  fat  or 
oil  until  a  nice  brown. 

SOFT  SHELL  CRABS 

The  soft  shell  crab  is  nothing  more  than  a  hard  shell  crab 
after  shedding  its  shell.  In  about  three  days  the  new  shell 
begins  to  harden  again,  which  is  the  cause  of  the  always- 
short  supply. 


60  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

Lift  the  shell  and  remove  the  spongy  substance  on  both 
sides ;  then  put  your  thumb  nail  under  the  point  of  the 
"apron"  and  pull  it  off.  The  "  apron"  is  a  small,  loose  shell, 
running  to  a  point  in  the  middle  of  the  under  shell.  Now 
wipe  the  crabs  dry;  if  they  are  at  all  sandy,  wash  them  before 
removing  anything.  Do  not  blanch  them,  as  it  entirely 
destroys  their  fine  flavor.  Dip  them,  while  alive,  in  beaten 
egg,  and  then  in  bread  crumbs  which  have  been  well  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  cayenne.  Fry  in  boiling  oil  or  lard  for 
ten  minutes;  when  done,  drain  a  moment  on  soft  brown 
paper.  Put  sauce  Tartare  in  the  centre  of  a  cold,  flat  dish; 
arrange  the  crabs  around  this,  garnish  with  parsley  and 
lemon  cut  into  quarters,  and  serve. 

SOFT  CRABS  FRIED  IN  BUTTER 

Clean  the  crabs  same  as  above.  Dust  them  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  flour.  Put  three  tablespoon fuls  of  butter  into  a 
frying-pan,  and  when  hot  throw  in  the  crabs;  when  brown 
on  one  side,  turn  and  brown  on  the  other.  Serve  as  above. 

CRAW-FISH 

These  are  found  in  most  of  our  brooks  and  rivers.  They 
resemble  the  lobster,  and  are  often  called  young  lobsters. 

They  are  boiled  and  served  the  same  as  crabs,  or  used 
to  garnish  boiled  fish. 

SHRIMPS 

Of  all  fish  belonging  to  the  lobster  species,  shrimps  are  the 
smallest.  They  are  of  two  kinds,  the  Gulf  shrimps  or 
prawns  being  the  largest.  They  are  sold  by  the  quart, 
already  boiled,  in  some  markets,  but  in  the  Northern  cities 
the  canned  goods  are  convenient  and  very  nice.  Those 
put  up  by  Dunbar  &  Co.,  and  White,  are  the  best. 


FISH  61 

BOILED    SHRIMPS 

Wash,  and  boil  the  same  as  crabs.  When  cold,  twist  the 
body  and  tail  shells  apart,  carefully,  so  as  not  to  break  the 
meat,  which  remove  in  one  piece.  Serve  same  as  crabs. 


SCALLOPS 

Scallops  are  always  sold  by  measure,  and  only  the  muscular 
part  of  the  fish  is  fit  to  use. 

TO    FRY   SCALLOPS 

Cover  the  scallops  with  boiling  water  and  let  them  stand 
three  minutes ;  drain,  and  dry  them  with  a  towel ;  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  first  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  bread 
crumbs,"  and  fry  in  boiling  fat  or  oil. 

STEWED    SCALLOPS 

i  pint  of  scallops  i  pint  of  milk 

i  tablespoon ful  of  butter        i  tablespoon ful  of  flour 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  scallops  in  cold  water,  then  drain  them.  Put  the 
milk  on  to  boil.  Rub  'the  butter  and  flour  together  and 
add  to  the  milk  when  boiling ;  add  the  scallops,  stir,  and 
cook  five  minutes  ;  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 


MUSSELS  OR  SOFT  CLAMS 

Mussels  are  good  during  the  winter  months  only.  They 
should  be  of  medium  size,  heavy,  and  perfectly  fresh.  Re- 
move the  shells  carefully ;  wash  the  mussels  and  soak  in 
cold  water  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain. 

FRIED    MUSSELS 
Mussels  may  be  fried  and  served  like  oysters. 


62  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

STEWED    MUSSELS 

Wash ;  and  open  the  mussels  until  you  have  one  quart. 
Then  put  them  into  a  hot  pan  and  stew  for  five  minutes; 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  dust  them  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  add  six  whole  pepper-corns  and  stew 
gently  for  ten  minutes.  Then  add  a  half  cupful  of  cream 
and  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Take  from  the  fire 
and  season  with  pepper  and  salt. 


CLAMS 

There  are  two  varieties  of  clams,  the  small  sand  or  little 
necks,  and  the  mud  clams  or  quahaugs.  The  first  are  very 
much  the  best,  and  are  in  season  almost  the  whole  jear. 

FRIED    CLAMS 
Clams  may  be  fried  the  same  as  oysters. 

STEWED   CLAMS 

Clams  may  be  stewed  the  same  as  mussels,  using  fifty  clams 
instead  of  one  quart  of  mussels. 

TO    ROAST    CLAMS 

Wash  them  and  put  on  a  gridiron  over  the  hot  coals. 
When  the  shells  open,  remove  the  upper  one,  and  serve  in 
the  under  shell  at  once  with  a  bit  of  butter  and  a  little 
pepper  on  each. 

CLAM    FRITTERS 

Clam  fritters  may  be  made  the  same  as  oyster  fritters,  using 
twenty-five  clams  instead  of  twenty-five  oysters. 

PICKLED  CLAMS 

Pickled  clams  are  made  precisely  the  same  as  pickled 
oysters,  using  fifty  little-neck  clams  instead  of  fifty  oysters. 


FISH  63 

TERRAPIN 

Terrapins  are  always  sold  alive,  and  are  in  season  from 
November  to  March.  Diamond  backs  are  the  best,  but  are 
very  expensive,  costing  from  thirty  to  thirty-six  dollars  per 
dozen  for  cows.  The  males  are  small  and  of  inferior  flavor. 
The  common  red-legs  or  fresh-water  terrapin  are  very 
good,  and  only  cost  about  two  or  three  dollars  a  dozen  for 
the  very  best. 

STEWED   TERRAPIN 

2  terrapins  ^  pound  of  butter 

y*,  pint  of  thick  cream  i  gill  of  sherry  or  Madeira 

6  eggs  ^  teaspoon ful  of  mace 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Put  the-  terrapins  alive  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes,  or  until  you  can  pull  off  the  outer  skin  and 
the  toe  nails.  Now  put  them  back  in  fresh  boiling  water, 
add  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  boil  slowly  until  the 
shells  part  easily  and  the  flesh  on  the  legs  is  quite  tender. 
When  done  take  out,  remove  the  under  shell,  and  let  stand 
until  cool  enough  to  handle.  Then  take  them  out  of  the 
upper  shells  ;  carefully  remove  the  sand  bags,  bladders,  the 
thick  heavy  part  of  the  intestines,  and  the  gall  sacks,  which 
are  found  imbedded  in  one  lobe  of  the  liver,  and  throw 
them  away.  In  removing  the  gall  sack,  be  very  careful  not  to 
break  it,  as  it  would  spoil  the  whole  terrapin.  Break  the 
terrapin  into  convenient-sized  pieces,  cut  the  small  intes- 
tines into  tiny  pieces  and  add  them  to  the  meat ;  now  add 
the  liver  broken  up,  also  all  the  eggs  found  in  the  terrapins. 
Now  put  it  into  a  stewing-pan  with  the  juice  or  liquor  it 
has  given  out  while  being  cut.  Roll  the  butter  in  flour, 
add  it  to  the  terrapin,  and  stand  on  a  very  moderate  fire 
until  heated.  Boil  the  six  eggs  for  fifteen  minutes,  take 
out  the  yolks,  mash  to  a  smooth  paste  with  two  tablespoon- 


61  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

fuls  of  the  wine,  then  add  this,  the  cream  and  seasoning  to 
the  terrapin,  let  it  boil  up  once,  take  from  fire,  add  the 
wine  and  serve. 

It  must  never  be  boiled  after  adding  the  wine.  More 
or  less  wine  may  be  added  according  to  taste. 

OYSTERS 

11  Blessed  if  I  don't  think  that  ven  a  man's  iverry  poor  he  ritshes 
out  of  his  lodgings  and  eats  oysters  in  regular  desperation" — PICKWICK 
PAPERS. 

Blue  Points  are  nicest  for  serving  raw,  as  they  are  small  and 
fat  and  are  considered  the  finest  in  the  market.  The  Cape 
Shores,  Maurice  River  Coves,  and  the  Western  Shores  are 
all  very  good.  They  are  in  season  from  September  until 
May  and,  like  other  shell-fish,  are  not  good  when  dead. 

Dr.  Kitchener  says,  "Those  who  wish  to  enjoy  this 
delicious  restorative  in  its  utmost  perfection,  must  eat  it  the 
moment  it  is  opened,  with  its  own  gravy  in  the  under 
shell ;  if  not  eaten  while  absolutely  alive,  its  flavor  and 
spirit  are  lost." 

SERVED  ON  THE  HALF  SHELL 

Allow  six  oysters  to  each  person.  Wash  the  shells  well ; 
open  them  carefully;  take  off  the  upper  shell,  detach  the 
oyster  from  the  under  shell,  but  leave  it  there.  Put  six 
on  an  oyster  or  round  plate,  and  serve  with  a  piece  of 
lemon  in  the  centre  of  the  dish. 

SERVED  IN  A  BLOCK  OF  ICE 

Take  a  perfectly  clear  block  of  ice,  weighing  about  ten 
pounds.  Heat  a  flat-iron,  and  with  it  mark  out  the  space 
to  be  melted,  leaving  a  wall  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
thick.  Reheat  the  iron  and  with  it  melt  the  ice  in  the 
centre  of  the  block ;  heat  again,  and  continue  the  opera- 


FISH  65 

tion  until  you  have  a  perfectly  square  cavity,  leaving  the 
bottom  and  sides  about  one  and  a  half  inches  thick. 
Empty  all  the  water  carefully  out,  fill  the  cavity  with 
freshly-opened  oysters.  Fold  a  napkin  and  place  it  on  a 
large  flat  dish ;  stand  the  ice  on  this,  and  garnish  the  dish 
with  smilax  and  nasturtium  flowers  ;  here  and  'there,  among 
the  smilax,  lemon  quarters  may  be  placed. 

In  large  cities,  ice   moulds  of  different  varieties  are 
frozen  to  order  and  furnished  by  caterers. 

STEWED  OYSTERS         No.  i 

50  oysters  i  large  tablespoon  ful  of  flour 

i  pint  of  milk  i  blade  of  mace 

i  large  tablespoonful  of       6  whole  allspice 

butter  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Drain  the  oysters,  and  put  the  liquor  on  to  boil;  as  soon  as 
it  boils,  skim  all  the  white  scum  from  the  surface ;  now  add 
the  milk,  put  back  on  the  fire ;  rub  the  butter  and  flour 
together  and  add  to  the  milk  as  soon  as  it  boils;  stir  until 
it  begins  to  thicken,  add  the  mace  and  allspice.  Wash  the 
oysters  by  pouring  cold  water  over  them  in  the  colander, 
add  these  to  the  other  ingredients  and  stir  constantly  until 
the  oysters  curl ;  then  add  the  salt  and  pepper.  Do  not 
allow  them  to  boil,  or  the  sauce  will  curdle,  but  be  sure 
they  are  thoroughly  heated,  as  nothing  is ,  more  objection- 
able than  an  uncooked  oyster  in  a  hot  sauce. 

STEWED  OYSTERS       No.  2  (Mrs.  Rogers,  of  Philadelphia) 
50  oysters  ^  cup  of  bread  crumbs 

i  pint  of  cream  i  pint  of  water 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Drain  the  oysters  in  a  colander,  and  wash  by  pouring  cold 
water  over  them.  Put  the  bread  crumbs  and  water  in  a 
stewing-pan,  and  cook  five  minutes ;  then  add  the  oysters, 
and,  when  boiling  hot,  add  the  butter,  cream,  salt  and 
pepper.  Let  the  whole  boil  up  once,  and  serve. 


66  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

FRICASSEE   OF  OYSTERS 

25  oysters 

i  large  tablespoonful  of  butter 
i  large  tablespoonful  of  flour 
y<i  pint  of  milk 
Yolks  of  two  eggs 
-  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Boil  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor;  drain.  Put  the  butter 
in  a  frying-pan,  and,  when  melted,  add  the  flour;  mix 
until  smooth  ;  now  add  the  milk,  stir  until  it  boils ;  add 
the  oysters  and  a  half-cup  of  the  liquor,  salt  and  cayenne, 
and  stir  again  until  it  boils.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  lightly  beaten,  and  the  parsley;  serve  at 
once. 

CREAMED    OYSTERS 

25  oysters  i  tablespoonful  of  corn -starch 

i  pint  of  cream  or  flour 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter    i  blade  of  mace 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  oysters  on  to  boil  in  their  own  liquor ;  as  soon  as 
they  come  to  a  boil,  drain  through  a  colander.  Put  the 
cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Rub  the  butter  and 
corn -starch,  or  flour,  together,  and  add  to  the  cream  when 
boiling;  add  the  mace,  and  stir  constantly  until  it  thickens; 
then  add  the  oysters,  salt  and  pepper;  stir  until  thoroughly 
heated,  and  serve. 

OYSTERS  a  la  BECHAMEL 

25  oysters  2  ounces  of  butter 

y?  pint  of  cream  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Boil  the  oysters  about  two  minutes  in  their  own  liquor, 
drain,  and  chop  them  fine.  Put  the  butter  in  a  porcelain 
or  granite  saucepan,  and,  when  melted,  add  the  flour ;  stir 
and  mix  over  the  fire  until  smooth,  then  add  the  cream ; 


FISH  67 

stir  constantly  until  it  boils;  add  the  oysters;  let  it  boil  up 
once ;  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve.  A  half-dozen 
chopped  mushrooms  may  be  added,  if  liked. 

PANNED  OYSTERS 

Put  twenty-five  oysters  in  a  colander  and  wash  by  pouring 
cold  water  over  them  ;  allow  them  to  drain  ten  minutes ; 
do  not  save  either  the  water  or  liquor.  Put  an  iron  frying- 
pan  over  a  quick  fire  to  heat ;  as  soon  as  it  is  hissing  hot, 
throw  in  the  oysters  and  shake  and  stir  until  they  boil;  then 
add  salt,  pepper,  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  large 
walnut.  Serve  in  a  hot  dish  immediately. 

These  are  very  nice,  retaining  all  the  natural  flavor  of 
the  oyster. 

BROILED  OYSTERS  (on  the  gridiron) 
Use  nice  fat  oysters.  Lay  them  out  on  a  board,  dry  with 
a  towel,  season  them  with  salt  and  cayenne  on  both  sides. 
Have  your  gridiron  hot ;  test  it  by  dropping  on  a  drop  of 
water ;  if  it  hisses,  it  is  ready.  Stand  the  dish  in  a  warm 
place;  put  in  it  a  piece  of  butter.  Now  cover  the  grid- 
iron with  the  oysters ;  as  soon  as  browned  on  one  side, 
turn  and  brown  on  the  other.  Put  them  in  the  heated 
dish,  and  serve  at  once. 

BROILED  OYSTERS  WITH  BROWN  SAUCE 

Drain  the  oysters  in  a  colander.  Take  one  pint  of  liquor 
to  every  twenty-five  oysters ;  put  the  liquor  on  to  boil  ; 
skim  all  scum  from  the  surface.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  stir  until  a  nice  brown ;  then 
add  two  tablespoon fuls  of  flour,  mix  well,  and  brown  ;  then 
add  the  oyster  liquor,  and  stir  constantly  until  it  boils. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stand  it  over  hot  water  until 
wanted.  Broil  oysters  on  gridiron,  as  directed,  throw 
them  into  this  sauce,  and  serve  on  squares  of  buttered  toast. 


68  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

NEW  YORK  BROILED  OYSTERS 

Take  twenty-five  large  oysters,  drain  them,  and  place  on  a 
a  baking  board,  season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  dip  in 
bread  crumbs.  Grease  an  oyster  broiler,  place  the  oysters 
in  side  by  side,  close  the  broiler,  and  broil  them  over  a 
clear  fire  until  brown  on  one  side,  then  turn  and  brown 
the  other.  Serve  immediately  on  squares  of  buttered 
toast,  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon  and  a  bit  of  butter  on 
each  oyster. 

PHILADELPHIA  BROILED   OYSTERS 

Take  twenty-five  large  oysters,  drain  them,  and  place  on  a 
baking  board.  Season  them  with  salt  and  cayenne.  Put  one 
cup  of  the  liquor  on  to  boil ;  as  soon  as  it  boils,  skim  it,  and 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  with  salt  and  cayenne 
to  taste.  Grease  an  oyster  broiler,  place  the  oysters  in 
side  by  side,  close  the  broiler,  and  broil  them  over  a  clear 
fire  until  brown  on  one  side,  then  turn  and  brown  the 
other.  Now  throw  them  into  the  hot  liquor.  Serve  imme- 
diately with  a  plate  of  buttered  toast. 

BAKED    OYSTERS 

Take  nice  large  oysters  in  the  shell.  Wash  and  scrub 
the  shells  until  free  from  sand.  Now  place  them  in  a  bak- 
ing-pan, put  in  a  very  quick  oven  (400°  Fahr.),  and  bake 
until  they  open  their  shells.  Now  remove  the  upper  shells, 
put  a  small  bit  of  butter  on  each  oyster,  sprinkle  lightly 
with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  serve  in  the  under  shells. 

FRIED    OYSTERS         Philadelphia    Style 
Select   for  frying   the  finest   oysters  you  can   get.     Drain 
them  in  a  colander,  and  dry  one  by  one  on  an  old  napkin 
or  soft  linen.     Do  not  lift  them  with  a  fork,  but  carefully 
with  the   fingers.     Season   on   both   sides   with  salt  and 


FISH  ,         69 

cayenne.  Beat  up  an  egg  in  a  saucer,  add  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  boiling  water,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Put 
some  nice  stale  bread  crumbs  out  on  your  baking  board,  and 
season  with  salt  and  cayenne.  Dip  the  oysters  one  by  one 
first  in  the  bread  crumbs,  then  in  the  egg,  and  then  place 
again  in  the  crumbs,  covering  every  part  most  carefully, 
and  pressing  it  lightly  with  the  hand.  Put  a  deep  frying- 
pan  over  the  fire,  with  enough  oil  or  lard  to  immerse  the 
oysters.  Be  sure  the  oil  or  lard  is  boiling  hot  (365°  Fahr.); 
if  you  have  no  thermometer,  drop  in  a  crumb  of  bread,  if 
it  browns  quickly  it  is  hot  enough.  Put  in  six  of  your 
oysters,  watch  them  carefully,  as  soon  as  they  are  of  a 
golden  brown,  take  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  and  drain  on 
a  soft  piece  of  brown  paper,  and  serve  at  once  on  a  hot 
dish.  Some  kind  of  pickles  should  always  be  served  with 
them,  in  a  separate  dish. 

Oysters  are  very  much  better  fried  in  oil  than  lard  or 
butter.  They  should  never  be  fried  until  you  are  quite 
ready  to  eat  them,  as  they  are  not  good  when  kept  warm, 
or  warmed  over.  If  you  have  a  large  quantity  to  fry,  they 
may  be  dipped  an  hour  or  two  before  serving  time,  and 
spread  on  a  clean  cloth  in  a  cool  place.  Always  use  bread 
crumbs  in  preference  to  cracker  crumbs. 

FRIED  OYSTERS  New  York  and  Southern  Style 
Drain  the  oysters  and  season  as  above,  then  dip  them  in 
very  fine  cracker  crumbs  or  flour.  Put  three  or  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan ;  and,  when  hot,  put  in 
enough  oysters  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  ;  when 
brown  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown  the  other.  See  that 
they  are  crisp,  but  not  burned.  Serve  at  once  on  a  hot  dish. 

SCALLOPED     OYSTERS 

In  a  baking-dish  put  a  layer  of  oysters,  and  cover  them 
with  a  half-inch  layer  of  stale  bread  crumbs ;  dot  this  over 


70         ^        PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

with  bits  of  butter,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  ;  then  add 
another  layer  of  oysters,  and  so  continue  until  the  dish  is 
full,  always  having  the  last  layer  crumbs,  dotted  with  bits 
of  butter.  Moisten  the  whole  with  a  half  cupful  of  the 
oyster  liquor  and  the  same  of  milk.  Bake  in  a  rather  quick 
oven  for  twenty  minutes,  or  until  a  nice  brown.  Serve  in 
the  baking-dish. 

At  my  lectures  I  have  often  prepared  these  in  the  same 
manner,  using  the  oyster  shells  instead  of  the  one  large 
baking-pan,  allowing  three  oysters  to  each  shell,  and  I 
think  the  flavor  is  thereby  greatly  improved. 

OYSTERS   AND  MACARONI 

Boil  four  ounces  of  macaroni,  in  plenty  of  boiling  water, 
twenty  minutes.  Then  cut  it  into  pieces  about  one  inch 
long.  Put  a  layer  of  this  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish, 
then  a  layer  of  oysters,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  a  few  bits  of  butter,  then  another  layer  of  maca- 
roni, and  so  on  until  all  is  used,  having  the  top  layer 
macaroni ;  sprinkle  the  top  lightly  with  grated  cheese,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  twenty  minutes.  Serve  in  the 
dish  in  which  they  were  baked. 

OYSTER     SAUTE 

Enice  fat  oysters 
pound  of  Irish  breakfast  bacon 
'pper  and  flour 

Drain  the  oysters  and  dry  them  with  a  towel,  then  sprinkle 
with  pepper,  and  roll  them  in  flour.  Put  the  bacon,  cut 
into  thin  slices,  in  a  frying-pan,  and  let  all  the  fat  try  out 
of  it ;  then  remove  the  bacon  and  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  with  oysters ;  as  soon  as  crisp  and  brown  on  one  side, 
turn  and  brown  on  the  other.  Serve  on  squares  of  buttered 
toast. 


FISH  71 

These  are  delicious.  If  no  Irish  bacon  is  at  hand,  use 
the  ordinary  smoked  pork. 

OYSTER    LOAF 

Cut  a  long  loaf  of  bread  into  slices  about  two  inches  thick  ; 
a  baker's  long  five-cent  loaf  will  make  six.  Now  trim  off 
the  crust,  and  make  each  piece  square.  Dig  the  crumb  out 
of  the  centre  of  each  piece,  leaving  sides  and  bottom  like 
a  box ;  that  is,  make  a  square  box  out  of  each  slice  of  bread. 
Brush  each  box  over  with  melted  butter  and  put  in  a  quick 
oven  until  a  light  brown.  Fill  with  creamed  oysters  and 
serve. 

DEVILED    OYSTERS 

25  nice  fat  oysters  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 

y<2.  pint  of  cream  parsley 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter     Yolks  of  two  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour       Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 
Drain  the  oysters  and  chop  them  middling  fine  and  drain 
again.     Put  the  milk  on  to  boil.     Rub  the  butter  and  flour 
together  and  stir  into  the  milk  when  boiling ;  as  soon  as  it 
thickens,  take  it  from  the  fire  and  add  all  the  other  ingre- 
dients.    Beat  the  yolks  before   adding   them.     Have  the 
deep  shells  of   the    oysters    washed    perfectly   clean,  fill 
them  with  this  mixture,  sprinkle  lightly  with  bread  crumbs, 
put  them  in  a  baking-pan  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven  for 
five  minutes.     Serve  in  the  shells;  garnish  with  parsley. 

They  may  be  cooked  in  clam  or  silver  scallop  shells, 
but  are  much  better  done  in  their  own  shells,  as  there  is  a 
flavor  imparted  by  the  heated  shell  which  greatly  enriches 
the  mixture.  A  word  of  caution  :  avoid  long  cooking,  as 
it  makes  them  dry.  If  your  oven  will  not  brown  them  in 
five  or  six  minutes,  and  you  have  no  salamander,  heat  your 
fire  shovel  red  hot.  Take  the  shells  from  the  oven,  hold 
the  shovel  over  them  until  they  brown. 


72  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

These  may  be  prepared  several  hours  before  they  are 
wanted,  and  placed  in  the  oven  and  browned  at  serving 
time. 

OYSTER  CROQUETTES 

25  oysters  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 

i  gill  of  oyster  liquor  parsley 

i  gill  of  cream  Yolks  of  2  eggs 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter  ^  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour      Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 
Put  the  oysters  on  to  boil  in  their  own   liquor ;  boil  and 
stir  constantly  for  five  minutes.     Take  from  the  fire  and 
drain.     Chop  the  oysters  very  fine.     Now  put  into  a  sauce- 
pan one  gill  of  this  liquor  and  the  cream.    Rub  together  the 
butter  and  flour ;  add  this  and  the  oysters  to  the  boiling 
liquor  and  cream,  and  stir  until  it  boils  and  thickens ;  now 
add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs ;  stir  over  the  fire  one  minute ; 
take  it  off,  add  parsley,  salt,  cayenne  and  nutmeg,  mix  well, 
and  turn  out  to  cool.    When  cold,  form  into  cylinders,  roll 
first  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling 
oil  or  fat. 

OYSTER    FRITTERS 

25  oysters  2  dashes  of  black  pepper 

2  eggs  2  cupfuls  of  flour 

i  cup  of  milk  y2  teaspoonful  of  baking 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt  powder 

Drain  the  oysters  and  strip  them  with  your  fingers  to 
remove  any  pieces  of  shell  that  may  have  been  left  on 
them.  Chop  them  fine.  Beat  the  eggs  altogether  until  very 
light,  add  to  them  the  milk,  then  the  flour  and  salt,  and 
beat  until  perfectly  smooth;  add  the  oysters  (free  from  all 
liquor),  and  the  baking  powder ;  mix  well,  and  drop  by 
spoonfuls  in  boiling  oil  or  fat ;  when  browned  on  one  side, 
turn  and  brown  on  the  other.  When  done,  take  out  with  a 
skimmer,  as  it  makes  them  very  heavy  to  pierce  them  with 
a  fork. 


FISH  73 

KROMESKIES  OF  OYSTERS 

25  oysters  i  cup  of  the  white  meat  of 

3  chopped  mushrooms  chicken 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  ^  pound  of  bacon 
Yolks  of  two  eggs  ^  cup  of  cream 

i  tablespoonful  of  parsley  2  tablespoon fuls  of  flour 

12  drops  of  onion  juice       Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  oysters  on  to  boil  in  their  own  liquor,  drain,  and 
save  a  half  cupful  of  the  liquor.  Chop  the  oysters  fine, 
add  them  to  the  half-cup  of  liquor  and  boil  one  min- 
ute ;  then  add  the  cream,  the  mushrooms,  and  the  chicken 
chopped  fine.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  and  stir 
in  this  boiling  mixture ;  add  the  parsley,  onion  juice,  salt 
and  pepper,  then  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  ;  mix  well  and  turn 
out  to  cool.  When  cold,  roll  into  cylinders  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  long  and  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in 
diameter.  Cut  the  bacon  into  slices  as  thin  as  shavings, 
roll  each  cylinder  in  a  slice  of  bacon,  dip  in  French  fritter 
batter,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Serve  immediately,  garnished 
with  parsley. 

PICKLED  OYSTERS 

Boil  fifty  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  until  they  begin  to 
curl ;  drain  and  save  the  liquor.  Take  a  half  pint  of  white- 
wine  vinegar,  and  a  half  pint  of  the  oyster  liquor ;  put  them 
on  to  boil  with  two  blades  of  mace,  one  dozen  whole  cloves, 
same  of  whole  allspice,  the  same  of  whole  pepper-corns  and 
a  dash  of  cayenne  ;  as  soon  as  they  come  to  a  good,  hard 
boil,  have  the  oysters  in  a  glass  jar,  pour  over  them  the 
boiling  liquor,  cover  them  closely  and  stand  away  to  cool. 
They  will  keep  some  time,  and  should  be  served  cold. 
They  will  be  ready  for  use  the  second  day. 


74  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

OYSTER  FILLING   FOR   POULTRY 

A  sixteen-pound  turkey  will  require  : — 

25  oysters  i  quart  of  stale  bread  crumbs 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

parsley  i  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

i  teaspoonful  of  sweet         Pepper  to  taste 

marjoram 

Drain  the  oysters,  wash  them  in  cold  water  and  drain  again. 
Mix  the  crumbs,  salt,  pepper,  parsley  and  sweet  marjoram 
together;  add  the  butter,  melted,  and  then  the  oysters,  and 
it  is  ready  for  use. 


ADDITIONAL    RECIPES  75 


76  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


ADDITIONAL   RECIPES  77 


78 


PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


MEATS 


As  stated  in  the  remarks  on  soup,  the  principal  constituents 
of  animal  food  are  fibrin,  fat,  gelatin,  albumen,  and  osma- 
zome.  It  also  contains  a  large  amount  of  water.  Liebig 
assumes  that  74  parts  are  water  and  26  parts  dry  matter. 

"  The  ratio  of  water  in  meats,  fowl  and  fish  is  quite 
uniform,  ranging  from  70  to  80  per  cent.,  but  the  propor- 
tion of  other  constituents,  muscular  fibre,  fat  and  bone, 
exhibits  the  widest  possible  diversity.  In  some  animals, 
more  especially  wild  ones,  as  deer,  there  may  be  hardly 
a  trace  of  oily  matter,  while  swine  are  often  fed  until 
the  animal  becomes  one  morbid  and  unwieldy  mass  of 
fat.  The  pure  muscle  of  ordinary  meat,  with  all  its  visible 
fat  removed,  is  assumed  by  Liebig  to  still  contain  about  8 
per  cent,  of  fat.  In  beef  and  mutton  such  as  is  met  with 
in  our  markets,  from  a  third  to  a  fourth  of  the  whole  dead 
weight  generally  consists  of  fat."  (Johnston.) 

In  cooking  meats  our  object  is  to  retain  the  nourish- 
ment and  flavor,  consequently  we  must  follow  directions 
exactly  the  opposite  from  those  for  making  soup.  The 
flavor  and  juiciness  of  meat  depend  as  much  upon  the  method 
of  cooking  as  upon  the  quality  of  the  meat.  If  cold  water 
and  a  moderate  heat  will  soften  the  fibre  and  draw  out  the 
juices,  boiling  water  or  a  strong,  dry  heat  will  retain  them, 

(79) 


80  PHILADELPHIA     COOK   BOOK 

by  coagulating  the  albumen  on  the  surface  and  to  a  certain 
depth  within,  thus  enclosing  the  meat  in  a  water-proof  case 
or  crust,  which  neither  permits  the  juices  to  flow  out  nor  the 
water  to  penetrate  within ;  in  this  way  only  is  meat  juicy 
and  well  flavored. 

The  more  albumen  the  flesh  contains  the  more  tender 
it  is,  consequently  veal,  lamb,  and  spring  chickens  are  more 
tender  than  beef,  mutton,  and  fowl.  The  coagulation  of 
the  albumen  throughout  the  meat  gives  it  the  white,  dry 
appearance.  The  tender  meats  also  have  less  flavor,  as  they 
contain  very  little  or  no  osmazome. 

I  emphatically  say  do  not  wash  meats,  as  in  this  way 
they  are  robbed  of  a  large  proportion  of  their  nutriment. 
The  steaks  or  roasts  freshly  cut  from  the  beef  are  certainly 
free  from  all  objectionable  matter ;  the  outer  edges  which 
the  butcher  has  handled  may  be  well  wiped  with  a  damp 
cloth  and  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Heat  is  generally  applied  to  meat  in  four  ways :  boiling, 
baking,  roasting,  and  braising.  The  first  includes  all  stews 
and  boiled  meats;  the  second  our  ordinary  baked  beef, 
commonly  called  roasted  in  the  oven  ;  the  third,  roasting 
before  or  under  the  fire,  and  broiling.  Roasting  means 
exposing  one  side  of  the  meat  to  the  fire  and  the  other  to 
the  air,  which  is  decidedly  the  best  way  of  cooking  large 
joints.  But  in  these  days  of  small  kitchens  and  ranges,  so 
few  persons  have  space  or  accommodations  for  using  a  spit 
or  even  a  tin  kitchen  (although  the  latter  may  be  used  be- 
fore any  ordinary  range)  that  almost  every  family  "  roasts  " 
in  the  oven ;  and  this  is  by  no  means  an  inferior  way  if 
the  oven  be  very  hot  at  first,  in  order  to  form  a  crust  upon 
the  outer  side,  then  slightly  cooled,  to  prevent  the  crust 
from  burning,  and  finished  at  a  moderate  heat.  In  this 
way  the  meat  may  be  well  done,  and  if  properly  basted  will 


MEATS  81 

retain  its  juices.  The  fourth  way  is  braising,  which  is  neither 
boiling  nor  baking,  but  has  the  advantages  of  both.  The 
meat  is  placed  in  a  braising-pan  (a  pan  with  a  close  cover), 
surrounded  by  water,  and  baked  in  a  hot  oven.  This  is  a 
very  nice  and  economical  way  of  cooking  meat. 

"Reed's  Roaster"  is  the  best  and  most  convenient 
pan  that  has  come  under  my  notice,  being  a  close  box  with 
a  door  at  the  end  ;  thus  enabling  you  to  look  at  the  meat 
without  removing  it  from  the  oven,  which  is  usually  neces- 
sary with 'other  pans. 

Meat  loses,  while  cooking,  a  certain  amount  of  its 
weight.  It  is  estimated  that  moderately  fat  beef  and  mutton 
will  lose  about  as  follows  : — 

KOASTING  BAKING  BOILING 

4  Ibs.  of  beef  will  lose       I  ft).  5  oz.          I  ft).  3  oz.  I  ft). 

4    "     "  mutton    "  I  "    6  "  I  "    4  "          14  oz. 

The  foregoing  table  will  show  that  boiling  or  stewing 
is  the  cheaper  method  of  cooking  meats,  as  the  meat  loses 
less  of  its  weight,  and  you  use  the  so-called  inferior  pieces. 
These  pieces  are  rejected,  as  Mrs.  Turner  fitly  says  :  "  not 
because  they  are  actually  much  inferior,  but  largely  for  the 
reason  which  induced  the  generation  before  ours  to  throw 
away  shad-roe,  sweet-breads,  and  other  things  now  con- 
sidered luxuries." 

When  we  consider  that  a  bullock  weighing  800  pounds 
contains  only  120  pounds  of  what  are  sought  after  in 
markets  as  the  best  pieces  for  roasts  and  steaks,  and  that 
only  8  to  1 2  pounds  in  the  whole  800  are  tenderloins,  and 
when  all  dealers  admit  that  the  comparative  cost  of  the  tra- 
ditional best  pieces  is  out  of  all  proportion  to  their  com- 
parative value  as  nutrition,  we  may  well  be  tempted  to  tamper 
with  our  tradition  and  experiment  a  little  with  portions  of 
the  remaining  680  pounds  ;  and  from  these  680  pounds  are 


82  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

made  all  our  nicest  dishes,  such  as  ragouts,  brown  stews, 
pot-roasts,  rolls,  and  in  fact  all  the  French  made  dishes. 

In  the  recipes  for  stews  and  their  companions,  you  will 
notice  that  we  never  stew  in  plain  water  and  thicken  after- 
wards, but  make  a  gravy  first,  either  from  salt  pork  fat, 
dripping,  suet,  or  butter  (never  lard),  and  in  this  way  the 
meat  is  more  savory  and  rich. 

By  changing  the  spices  and  flavorings,  by  browning, 
or  not,  the  sauces,  an  endless  number  of  dishes  may  be 
made  from  the  few  recipes  given. 


BEEF 

The  meat  should  be  of  fine  grain,  a  clear  red  color,  with  a 
yellowish-white,  firm  fat.  It  is  divided  into  fore  and  hind 
quarters.  The  hind  quarter  is  divided  into  leg,  loin  and 
flank.  The  sirloin  runs  from  the  rib  to  the  hip  or  pin 
bone  ;  the  rump  extends  from  this  to  the  socket  bone. 
The  skirt  steak  is  in  the  flank.  The  fore  quarter  is  divided 
into  ribs,  shoulder,  plate,  brisket,  chuck  ribs,  and  shin. 
The  standing  ribs  are  six  in  number.  The  seventh  and 
eighth  ribs  are  called  the  first  chuck,  the  ninth  and  tenth 
the  second  chuck,  the  eleventh  and  twelfth  the  third  chuck, 
the  thirteenth  the  fourth  chuck.  The  bolar  piece  is  the 
fleshy  part  of  the  shoulder.  The  plate  is  the  top  of  the 
ribs,  then  comes  the  brisket. 

ROAST  BEEF 

The  best  pieces  for  roasting  are  the  ribs,  sirloin,  and  pin 
bone. 

If  you  use  a  tin  kitchen,  run  the  spit  through  the 
meat,  dredge  it  with  pepper,  and  place  it  at  first  very  near 
a  hot  fire.  As  soon  as  brown  on  the  surface,  draw  a  little 


ME  A  TS  83 

from  the  fire,  that  it  may  not  burn ;  put  a  half  pint  of  water 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  the  bottom  of  the  kitchen, 
and  turn  the  meat  almost  constantly,  basting  every  ten 
minutes  until  done.  Roast  fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound, 
if  you  like  your  meat  rare ;  if  well  done,  twenty  minutes. 
Do  not  add  any  more  water  after  the  first  evaporates, 
as  there  will  be  sufficient  fat  falling  into  the  kitchen  to 
baste  with.  For  the  gravy,  allow  two  tablespoon fuls  of 
dripping  to  remain  in  the  bottom  of  the  kitchen  ;  add 
to  it  one  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  mix  until  smooth ;  add 
a  half  pint  of  boiling  water  or  stock ;  stir  continually  until 
it  boils  ;  then  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

BAKED  BEEF  OR  ROASTED  IN  THE  OVEN 

Place  the  joint  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-pan,  dredge  it 
lightly  with  pepper;  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  one 
cupful  of  water,  and  pour  it  in  the  pan.  Place  it  in  a  very 
hot  oven ;  baste  every  ten  minutes,  lest  it  should  burn.  Turn 
it  two  or  three  times,  and  bake  fifteen  minutes  to  every 
pound.  Serve  with  gravy  made  the  same  as  for  roast  beef. 

BAKED  RIB  OF  BEEF  WITH  YORKSHIRE  PUDDING 
Remove  the  ribs,  then  roll  the  meat,  and  tie  it  with  twine 
(the  butcher  will  do  this  if  you  ask  him).  Place  it  in  a 
baking-pan,  dredge  it  lightly  with  pepper;  add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  to  one  cupful  of  water,  and  pour  it  in  the 
pan.  Then  place  the  pan  in  a  very  hot  oven  and  baste 
often,  lest  it  should  burn.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  to  every 
pound.  One  hour  before  the  meat  is  done,  make  the 
pudding.  Pour  nearly  all  the  dripping  from  under  the 
meat  into  another  baking-pan,  and  turn  into  it  the  pudding. 
Bake  one  hour. 


84  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

THE    PUDDING 

3  eggs  6  large  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

i  pint  of  milk  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

2  dashes  of  pepper 

Beat  the  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  together,  until  light ;  add 
to  them  the  milk.  Put  the  flour  into  a  bowl,  moisten  it 
gradually  with  the  eggs  and  milk ;  beat  until  smooth ;  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve ;  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  bake. 
Cut  into  squares,  and  serve  around  the  meat. 

A  POT  ROAST 

Trim  off  the  rough  parts  of  a  nice  brisket  of  beef,  place  it 
in  a  kettle  over  a  good  fire ;  brown  on  one  side,  then  turn 
and  brown  on  the  other;  then  add  one  pint  of  boiling 
water,  cover  and  cook  slowly  fifteen  minutes  to  every 
pound.  Add  salt  when  the  meat  is  half  done.  After  the 
water  evaporates  add  no  more,  as  there  should  be  fat  enough 
to  finish  cooking  the  meat.  Serve  with  Brown  Sauce  No.  i, 
made  from  the  fat  in  the  pot. 

FILLET  OF  BEEF  WITH  MUSHROOM   SAUCE 

The  fillet  is  the  tenderloin  of  beef.  They  weigh  from  three 
to  eight  pounds,  and  cost  from  sixty  cents  to  one  dollar  per 
pound.  Having  no  bone,  this  makes  an  economical  as  well 
as  a  very  handsome  dish. 

From  a  caterer,  a  small  fillet  costs  from  seven  to  eight 
dollars ;  if  prepared  at  home,  about  half  that  price. 

To  prepare,  first  remove  with  a  sharp  knife  every 
shred  of  the  muscular  covering  on  the  one  side  of  the  fillet. 
Now  cut  larding  pork  (very  fat  salt  pork)  into  tiny  strips, 
and  throw  them  into  a  bowl  of  ice  water  to  harden.  Place 
one  strip  into  the  slot  end  of  the  larding  needle  as  far  as  it 
will  go,  thrust  the  needle  into  the  meat,  taking  a  stitch 


ME  A  TS  85 

across  the  top  about  one  inch  deep,  push  the  needle  through, 
place  the  finger  lightly  on  the  strip  of  pork  and  draw  the 
needle  out,  leaving  the  pork  exposed  about  quarter  of  an 
inch  at  each  end  of  the  stitch.  Continue  until  you  have  a 
row  of  these  lardoons  (the  H,ame  given  to  these  small 
strips)  down  the  centre  of  the  fillet  about  one  inch  apart. 
Into  the  bottom  of  a  baking-pan  put  one  small  onion  sliced, 
one  small  carrot  sliced,  a  stalk  of  celery  cut  into  small  pieces, 
four  cloves,  and  two  bay  leaves ;  put  the  fillet  in  the  pan 
on  top  of  these,  dredge  with  pepper,  and  spread  thickly 
with  butter ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  a  quarter  of  a  cup 
of  boiling  water,  and  pour  into  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 
Bake  in  a  quick  oven  (400°  Fahr.)  for  thirty  minutes,  bast- 
ing four  or  five  times.  The  shape  is  such  that  it  takes  thirty 
minutes  to  bake  a  fillet,  no  matter  what  its  weight.  When 
done,  take  out  and  place  on  a  hot  dish.  Add  to  the  pan 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  brown,  then  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour;  mix  well;  add  one  pint  of  stock 
or  boiling  water,  stir  continually  until  it  boils,  strain  into  a 
frying-pan,  and  add  one  pint  of  fresh  stewed  or  canned 
mushrooms.  Cook  five  minutes,  take  from  the  fire,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  one  tablespoonful  of 
sherry,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  ;  pour  it  around  the  fillet  and 
serve. 

BEEF  ^a  la  MODE 

Take  from  a  round  of  be'ef  a  slice  about  four  inches  thick, 
weighing  seven  or  eight  pounds.  Remove  the  bone.  Bind 
the  beef  into  good  shape  with  a  piece  of  new  muslin  or 
broad  tape,  sewing  the  ends  together  tightly.  Cut  deep 
gashes  into  the  meat  one  inch  apart,  being  careful  not  to 
cut  all  the  way  through.  Mix  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  same  of  cinnamon,  quarter  of 


86  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

a  teaspoonful  of  mace,  the  same  of  cloves,  and  rub  them 
into  the  meat  on  both  sides,  sprinkling  a  little  in  each  gash. 
Cut  fat  salt  pork  into  pieces  the  size  of  the  gashes,  put  one 
piece  in  each  gash.  Add  to  one  cup  of  stale  grated  bread  a 
small  onion  and  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley  chopped  very 
fine,  moisten  with  vinegar.  Now  work  a  small  portion  of 
this  forcemeat  into  the  slots,  by  the  side  of  the  pork.  Mix 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  with  three  of  olive  oil,  and 
moisten  well  both  sides  of  the  meat ;  let  stand  over  night 
if  possible.  Then  put  two  large  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
into  a  braising  or  baking-pan  ;  and  when  melted  and  hot, 
add  one  onion,  one  carrot  and  one  turnip  cut  into  slices; 
stir  the  whole  until  lightly  browned,  then  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  two  bay  leaves,  a  sprig  of  parsley, 
and  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  or  stock  ;  let  the  whole 
boil  two  minutes,  then  put  in  the  beef,  and  one  knuckle 
of  veal  well  cracked.  If  in  a  braising-pan  put  on  the 
cover ;  if  in  a  baking-pan,  turn  over  it  another  pan  to  keep 
in  the  steam.  Put  in  the  oven  and  bake  slowly  for  six 
hours;  oven  about  220°  Fahr.  When  done,  take  out  the 
meat  and  stand  away  to  cool.  Strain  the  liquor,  add  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  and  turn  into  a  square  pan  to  harden. 
This  will  make  a  jelly  of  a  bright  amber  color.  Serve  the 
meat  cold  with  squares  of  this  amber  jelly  around  it.  Gar- 
nish with  small  button  radishes,  cut  into  tulips,  and  parsley. 
Serve  also  in  a  separate  dish  sauce  Tartare. 

In  winter  this  will  keep  at  least  two  weeks,  and  equally 
as  long  in  summer,  if  kept  in  a  cold,  dry  refrigerator. 


BROILED    STEAK 

Trim  the  steak  free  from  all  suet.  Put  the  meat  plate  to 
warm.  Grease  the  broiler  and  put  it  to  heat.  See  that  the 
fire  is  clear  and  free  from  gas.  Now  put  the  steak  in  the  hot 


ME  A  TS  87 

broiler  and  place  it  over  the  fire;  turn  constantly.  It  will 
take  eight  minutes  to  broil  if  the  steak  is  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  thick.  When  done,  place  it  on  the  hot  plate, 
dredge  it  with  salt  and  pepper ;  turn  it  and  season  the 
other  side.  Serve  immediately. 

Never  attempt  to  broil  a  tough  steak ;  if  you  should 
be  so  unfortunate  as  to  buy  one,  use  it  for  some  made  dish, 
as  hacking  or  hammering  bruises  the  meat,  and  allows  all 
the  juices  to  escape. 


BROILED    FILLET 

Cut  a  fillet  of  beef  into  slices  about  an  inch  thick  ;  moisten 
them  with  melted  butter  or  olive  oil,  and  let  stand  for  half 
an  hour ;  then  place  them  on  a  broiler  and  broil  over  a 
quick  fire  five  minutes,  turning  them  two  or  three  times. 
Place  them  on  a  hot  plate,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
pour  tomato  sauce  around,  and  serve. 


BEEFSTEAK  SMOTHERED  IN  ONIONS 

Cut  one  dozen  onions  into  slices ;  fry  a  quarter-pound  of 
salt  pork  or  bacon  until  all  the  fat  is  tried  out,  then  take 
out  the  crackling  ;  into  this  hot  fat  put  the  onions ;  fry  and 
stir  for  twenty  minutes  over  a  good  fire ;  then  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  black  pepper,  and  one  cup  of 
boiling  water  ;  place  over  a  more  moderate  fire  to  simmer 
for  half  an  hour.  By  this  time  the  water  should  have 
entirely  evaporated,  and  the  onions  should  be  a  nice  brown. 
Have  ready  a  broiled  steak,  place  it  in  the  pan  with  the 
onions,  cover  it  over  the  top  with  some  of  them,  and  stand 
in  the  oven  for  five  minutes ;  then  place  the  steak  on  a  hot 
dish,  heap  the  onions  over  and  around,  and  serve. 


88  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

HAMBURG  STEAKS 

One  pound  of  steak  from  the  upper  side  of  the  round ; 
chop  it  very  fine,  add  to  it  a  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  dashes  of  black  pepper ; 
mix  well  together.  Moisten  the  hands  in  cold  water,  take 
two  tablespoon  fuls  of  this  mixture  and  form  with  the 
hands  into  small  round  cakes  or  steaks.  This  quantity  will 
make  eight  Hamburg  steaks.  Put  two  tablespoon  fuls  of 
butter  into  a  frying-pan  ;  when  hot,  put  in  the  steaks,  fry 
brown  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown  the  other.  Now  place 
them  on  a  hot  dish,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the 
butter  remaining  in  the  pan,  mix  until  smooth,  add  a  half- 
pint  of  boiling  water,  stir  constantly  until  it  boils;  add 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  pour  it  over  the  steaks. 

Or  they  maybe  broiled  same  as  a  plain  steak,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  spread  with  butter. 

TO   PAN  A  BEEFSTEAK 

When  there  are  no  conveniences  for  broiling  (and  we  never 
fry  a  steak),  heat  an  iron  pan  very  hot,  put  in  the  steak, 
turn  it  from  side  to  side  over  a  very  hot  fire  for  about  fif- 
teen minutes.  The  steak  should  be  about  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  in  thickness.  Serve  on  a  hot  plate,  seasoned  the 
same  as  broiled  steak. 

ROLLED   BEEFSTEAK 

i  skirt  steak  or 
i*/2  pounds  of  round  steak 
i  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
i  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter 

1  teaspoonful  of  sweet  marjoram 
yz  teaspoonful  of  salt 

2  dashes  of  black  pepper 

Mix  the  bread  crumbs,  parsley,  sweet  marjoram,  salt  and 


ME  A  TS  89 

pepper  together,  and  moisten  with  the  melted  butter. 
Spread  this  over  the  steak,  which  roll  tightly,  and  tie  with 
twine.  Put  it  in  a  baking-pan  with  any  pieces  of  suet  that 
you  may  have  trimmed  off;  add  a  half-cup  of  water,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Serve 
with  Brown  Sauce,  No.  2. 

BEEF  OLIVES 

il/2  pounds  of  round  steak        i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 
i  cup  of  stale  bread  ^  teaspoonful  of  sweet  mar- 

crumbs  joram 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  chopped    5  mushrooms,  chopped  fine 
parsley  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

2  dashes  of  pepper 

Have  the  steak  cut  very  thin ;  trim  off  all  the  fat  and  skin 
from  the  edges,  and  cut  the  steak  into  strips  about  three 
inches  wide  and  five  inches  long ;  mix  the  bread  crumbs, 
parsley,  sweet  marjoram,  mushrooms,  salt  and  pepper; 
moisten  with  the  butter  melted.  Put  a  layer  of  this 
forcemeat  on  the  top  of  each  strip,  roll  them  up  tightly, 
and  tie  with  twine ;  dredge  each  roll  thickly  with  flour. 
Cut  a  quarter  pound  of  salt  pork  into  slices,  put  it  into 
a  frying-pan  and  try  out  all  the  fat ;  then  put  in  the 
olives  (as  these  rolls  are  now  called)  and  brown  them 
on  all  sides ;  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  add  to  the 
fat  remaining  in  the  pan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mix 
until  smooth ;  add  one  pint  of  stock  or  boiling  water,  and 
stir  constantly  until  it  boils,  then  pour  into  the  saucepan 
over  the  olives;  add  a  slice  of  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  and 
a  bay  leaf.  Cover  and  simmer  gently  two  hours.  After 
they  have  been  simmering  one  hour* add  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt.  When  done,  place  the  olives  on  a  hot  dish, 
strain  the  sauce  over  and  around  them,  and  serve. 

This  is  a  very  good  and  economical  dish,  and  may  be 
made  without  the  mushrooms. 

V 


90  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

BCEUF     en    ROULEAU 

I  large  rump  steak 
YZ  cup  of  cold  cooked  ham  or  tongue 

1  egg 

A  little  cayenne 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  chopped  parsley- 
Chop  the  ham  or  tongue  very  fine  ;  mix  with  the  cayenne, 
parsley,  and  egg  slightly  beaten.  Have  the  steak  cut  very 
thin,  and  spread  over  it  the  ham  mixture ;  roll  up  tightly 
and  tie  with  twine.  Dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Put  a 
quarter-pound  of  bacon  into  a  frying-pan,  and  try  out  all 
the  fat ;  remove  the  bacon,  and  brown  the  roll  in  the  fat. 
Now  put  the  roll  into  a  small  saucepan.  Add  to  the  fat 
remaining  in  the  frying-pan  two  tablespoon fuls  of  flour, 
mix,  add  one  pint  of  stock  or  boiling  water,  and  stir  con- 
tinually until  it  boils.  Pour  this  over  the  rouleau,  add  one 
bay  leaf,  half  an  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce.  Cover  the  saucepan, 
and  simmer  for  two  hours.  While  this  is  stewing,  prepare 
some  ham  balls  for  a  garnish. 

HAM    BALLS 

YZ  cup  of  cooked  ham  or  tongue 

1  gill  of  milk 

2  tablespoon  fuls  of  dried  bread  crumbs 
Yolk  of  one  egg 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  chopped  parsley 
A  dash  of  cayenne 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil,  add  to  it  the  crumbs  ;  stir  over 
the  fire  until  it  thickens  ;  add  the  ham  finely  chopped, 
parsley,  cayenne,  and  the  beaten  yolk ;  mix  well,  and  turn 
out  to  cool.  When  cool,  form  into  balls  about  the  size  of 
a  hickory-nut ;  roll  first  in  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs, 
and  put  aside  until  wanted.  When  the  rouleau  is  done, 
cut  the  string  and  remove  it.  Put  the  rouleau  in  the  centre 


MEATS  91 

of  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over  it.  Plunge  the  balls 
into  boiling  fat  for  about  two  minutes  to  brown,  place  them 
around  the  rouleau,  and  serve. 

This  makes  a  good  and  sightly  dish,  and  is  very  inex- 
pensive. 

GRENADINES    OF   BEEF 

Have  a  rump  steak  cut  one  inch  thick,  weighing  about  two 
pounds.  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  the  tender  portion  into 
pieces  the  shape  of  a  French  chop.  Lard  thickly  on  one 
side.  (See  directions  for  larding.)  Put  two  or  three  slices 
of  fat  pork  into  a  frying-pan  (the  tender  part  of  the  larding 
pork  will  answer  nicely  for  this),  and  try  out  all  the  fat,  then 
put  in  the  chops,  brown  quickly  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown 
the  other.  Place  them  on  a  heated  dish,  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the  fat 
remaining  in  the  pan,  stir  until  a  nice  brown,  then  add  a 
half-pint  of  stock  or  water;  stir  constantly  until  it  boils; 
add  a  half-teaspoon ful  of  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcester- 
shire sauce,  and  pour  around  the  grenadines,  and  serve. 

The  tougher  part  of  the  steak  may  be  made  into  Ham- 
burg steaks  for  another  meal. 

CANNELON 

i  pound  of  uncooked  beef,  chopped  fine 

Yolk  of  one  egg 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter 

2  tablespoon fu Is  of  bread  crumbs 
i  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

3  dashes  of  black  pepper 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together,  then  form  into  a  roll 
about  six  inches  long  and  four  inches  in  diameter  ;  wrap 


92  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

in  greased  paper,  put  in  a  baking-pan,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  thirty  minutes,  basting  twice  with  melted  butter. 
When  done,  remove  the  paper,  place  the  roll  in  the  centre 
of  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  mushroom  or  brown  sauce 
poured  over  it. 


BOILING    OR    STEWING 

For  boiling,  stewing,  or  braising,  inferior  pieces  of  meat 
may  be  used  and  made  into  good,  wholesome  and  sightly 
dishes.  Points  to  be  remembered  : — 

I.  Be  sure  that  the  water  is  boiling  when  you  pour  it 
over  the  meat. 

II.  Stand  it  on  the  back  part  of  the  fire,  where  it  will 
just  simmer,   never  boil,   allowing  forty-five    minutes  for 
every  pound  of  meat. 

III.  Add  the  salt  when  the  meat  is  half  done. 


RAGOUT    OF  BEEF  a  la   MODE 

Cut  cold  beef  a  la  mode  into  pieces  about  one  inch  square. 
To  every  pint  of  these  squares  allow 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
i  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce 
i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup 
y?  pint  of  stock 

i  tablespoonful  of  sherry  (if  you  use  wine) 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  and  stir  until  a  dark 
brown ;  then  add  the  flour,  mix  well,  add  the  stock,  and 
stir  continually  until  it  boils ;  then  add  the  meat,  sauce, 
catsup,  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  wine ;  dish,  garnish 
with  boulettes  of  potatoes,  and  serve. 


ME  A  TS  93 

STUFFED  STEW  OF  BEEF 

3  pounds  from  upper  side      ^  teaspoonful  of  allspice 

of  round  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

*^  teaspoon  ml  of  black  pepper^  teaspoonful  of  cloves 
%  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg  i  cup  of  bread  crumbs 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped      i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
parsley  ]^  pound  of  larding  pork 

Make  gashes  in  the  meat  about  two  inches  long,  and  almost 
through  it.  Mix  the  spices,  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  the 
bread  crumbs,  parsley  and  the  butter  (melted)  together. 
Rub  the  meat  on  both  sides  with  the  spices,  and  put  the 
remainder  in  the  gashes.  Fill  the  gashes  nearly  full  with 
the  bread  crumbs.  Cut  the  larding-pork  into  pieces  the 
size  of  the  gashes,  and  work  them  down  with  the  crumbs. 
Now  tie  the  meat  around  with  a  piece  of  twine  to  hold  in 
the  filling.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan,  and  cover  with  a  gravy 
made  as  follows  : — 

GRAVY 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup 

i  tablespoonful  of  tomato  catsup 

i  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce 

i  onion 

i  bay  leaf 

i  quart  of  stock 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  let  it  brown ;  add  the 
flour,  and  mix  well ;  then  add  the  stock,  stir  until  it  boils ; 
then  add  the  catsups,  the  Worcestershire  sauce,  onion,  bay 
leaf,  and  pour  it  over  the  meat ;  simmer  gently  three  hours. 
Then  take  the  meat  out,  put  it  in  a  baking-pan,  pour  over 
two  tablespoon fuls  of  glaze  or  gravy,  and  put  it  in  the  oven 
for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  to  brown.  Then  dish,  and  strain 
the  gravy  over  and  around  it. 


94  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

SPICED   BEEF 

4  pounds  of  beef  from  the    ^  teaspoonful  of  cloves 

round  or  shoulder          i  teaspoonful  of  allspice 
YZ  teaspoonful  of  salt  %  teaspoonful  of  mace 

A  dash  of  cayenne  Juice  of  one  lemon 

2  bay  leaves  i  onion 

4  tablespoon fuls  of  olive  oil  or  butter 
Mix  the  spices,  salt  and  pepper  together,  and  rub  them  well 
into  the  meat  on  all  sides.  Mix  the  lemon-juice  and  oil  or 
butter  together,  and  (if  you  use  it)  a  gill  of  sherry.  Pour 
this  over  the  meat  and  stand  it  away  in  an  earthen  vessel 
for  twenty-four  hours.  Then  put  it,  with  all  its  juices,  into 
a  stewing-pan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  add  the  onion  and 
bay  leaves,  and  simmer  two  hours.  When  done,  take  out 
the  meat,  and  reduce  the  liquor  by  boiling  to  one  pint. 
Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  brown. 
Add  to  it  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix,  add  a  half-pint  of 
the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  was  boiled,  stir  constantly 
until  it  boils,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire^  sauce  \ 
then  pour  it  over  and  around  the  beef,  and  serve. 


BEEF  BOUILLI 

Take  a  piece  of  the  round,  weighing  four  pounds.  Tie  it 
into  a  neat  shape  with  strong  muslin  or  tape,  put  it  into  a 
large  stewing-pan,  cover  with  boiling  water  ;  stand  over  a 
moderate  fire,  skim  carefully,  and  simmer  forty-five  minutes 
to  every  pound.  When  the  meat  is  half  done,  add  a  large 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  carrot,  one  onion,  and  one 
turnip,  sliced.  Fifteen  minutes  before  you  dish  it,  add  two 
sliced  potatoes.  When  done,  dish  the  meat.  Rub  together 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  or  suet  and  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour,  stir  them  into  the  boiling  stew ;  season  to  taste, 
and  serve  in  a  tureen,  reserving  enough  vegetables  to  gar- 
nish the  meat. 


ME  A  TS  95 

STEW  OF  BEEF  WITH  DUMPLINGS 
Two  pounds  of  lean  beef  from  the  under  side  of  the  round, 
or  a  shoulder  piece.  Cut  it  into  pieces  about  an  inch 
square  ;  dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Put  two  tablespoon fuls 
of  dripping  or  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  place  it  on  a  good 
fire ;  as  soon  as  it  is  very  hot,  throw  in  the  meat  and  shake 
or  stir  until  all  is  nicely  browned.  Now  skim  it  out  and 
put  it  in  a  saucepan.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  to 
the  dripping  or  butter  remaining  in  the  frying-pan,  mix, 
then  add  one  quart  of  boiling  water;  stir  over  the  fire  until 
it  boils,  then  strain  it  over  the  meat ;  add  one  small  onion 
and  a  sprig  of  parsley.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it 
simmer  for  *wo  hours.  When  the  meat  is  half  done,  add  a 
teaspoon ful  of  salt  and  three  dashes  of  black  pepper.  Now 
sift  one  pint  of  flour,  add  to  it  a  heaping  teaspoonful 
of  baking  powder,  and  sift  again  ;  add  a  quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  just  enough  milk  (a  little  over  a  gill) 
to  make  a  soft  dough.  Do  not  work  it  much.  Dip  the 
dough  by  small  spoonfuls,  and  place  them  over  the  top  of 
the  meat,  cover  quickly  and  let  simmer  ten  minutes.  Do  not 
uncover  the  saucepan  while  the  dumplings  are  cooking,  or 
they  will  fall  immediately.  After  you  add  the  dumplings,  the 
stew  will  scorch  easily  ;  therefore  move  the  kettle  to  a  moder- 
ate part  of  the  fire.  Serve  as  soon  as  the  dumplings  are  done. 

A  STEW  OF   BEEF  WITH  OKRA 

Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  beef  bouilli,  adding  two 
dozen  okras,  sliced,  one  hour  before  the  stew  is  done. 

PRESSED  MEAT  No.  i 
I  quart  of  pieces  of  cold        i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

cooked  meat  i  teaspoonful  of  allspice 

y2  teaspoonful  of  cloves  *£  teaspoonful  of  mace 

^  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper  Salt  to  taste 
i  cup  of  boiling  stock 


96  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together,  then  press  into  a  square 
mould  and  stand  in  a  cold  place  to  cool.  When  cold, 
turn  it  from  the  mould,  cut  it  into  slices,  and  serve.  For 
this  you  can  use  any  meat  left  from  soups. 

PRESSED   MEAT  No.  2 

6  pounds  of  the  brisket  of  beef 
%  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves 
teaspoonful  of  ground  mace 


teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon 


*/i  teaspoonful  of  ground  allspice 
i^  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Dash  of  cayenne 

3  tablespoon fuls  of  vinegar 

Cover  the  meat  with  cold  water  and  simmer  for  five  hours. 
When  done,  take  out  and  stand  away  to  cool.  Boil  the 
liquor  until  reduced  to  a  pint.  When  the  meat  is  cold, 
remove  the  bones,  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces ;  add  to  it  all 
the  spices,  salt  and  pepper,  and  press  into  a  square  basin 
or  mould.  Now  add  the  vinegar  to  the  pint  of  boiling 
liquor,  pour  it  over  the  meat  and  stand  in  a  cold  place  for 
twelve  hours.  Then  loosen  it  from  the  sides  of  the  mould 
and  turn  it  carefully  out,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 


HASHES  AND  WARMED-OVER  MEATS 

BAKED    HASH         No.  i 

i  pint  of  chopped  cooked  meat 

i  pint  of  chopped  raw  potatoes 
y<z  pint  of  gravy  or  water 

i  tablespoon ful  of  butter,  melted 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together,  turn  into  a  mould,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  one  hour. 


ME  A  TS  97 

BAKED  HASH         No.  2 

1  quart  of  cold  cooked       i  pint  of  chopped  uncooked 

beef,  chopped  fine  potatoes 

2  eggs  Salt  and  pepper 

Put  the  chopped  potatoes  in  a  stewing-pan  with  one  pint 
of  water.  Let  them  stew  five  minutes,  then  add  the  meat, 
and  enough  water  to  make  the  mixture  moist.  Stew  ten 
minutes  longer.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  eggs  (beaten), 
a  teaspoon ful  of  salt,  and  three  dashes  of  black  pepper. 
Turn  it  into  a  baking-dish  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a 
quick  oven. 

CORNED  BEEF  HASH 

i  pint  of  cooked  corned     i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

beef,  chopped  fine      i  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice 
i  pint  of  cold  boiled  po-    i  cup  of  stock  or  water 

tatoes,  chopped  fine    3  dashes  of  pepper 
Mix  the  meat  and  potatoes  together,  put  them  in  a  frying- 
pan,  add  the  stock,  butter,  onion  juice,  and  pepper;  stir 
constantly  until  it  boils.     Serve  on  buttered  toast. 

PLAIN  HASH 

Take  any  pieces  left  from  cold  roasts,  steaks,  or  stews,  chop 
very  fine.  To  every  quart  of  this  meat  allow 

i  onion  2  hard-boiled  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter        ^  pint  of  hot  water 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Chop  the  onion  and  hard-boiled  eggs  very  fine,  then  put 
them  with  the  meat  into  a  stewing-pan  ;  add  the  butter,  salt, 
and  pepper.  Stew  and  stir  over  a  very  slow  fire  for  fifteen 
minutes. 

HASH  ON  TOAST 

Cut  pieces  of  cold  meat  into  small  squares  ;  to  every  pint 
of  these  squares  allow  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  a  half-pint  of  boiling  water. 


98  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and,  when  a  nice  brown, 
add  the  flour ;  mix  well ;  add  the  water,  and  stir  until  it 
boils ;  now  add  the  meat ;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Place 
on  a  moderate  fire,  and  let  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Toast  squares  of  bread,  butter  them,  and  place  on  a  hot 
dish.  Put  the  meat  on  the  toast,  and  pour  the  sauce 
around  it. 

BOSTON  BROWN  HASH 

Chop  any  remains  of  steaks,  roasts  or  stews  very  fine. 
Grease  deep  pie-dishes.  Put  a  layer  of  mashed  potatoes 
(cold  ones,  left  over,  will  answer)  in  the  bottom  of  the 
dish,  then  a  layer  of  meat,  then  a  layer  of  stale  bread 
crumbs ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper ;  place  here  and 
there  a  few  bits  of  butter,  and  moisten  with  a  half-cup  of 
beef  gravy,  then  another  layer  of  potatoes.  Dip  a  knife 
into  milk  and  smooth  over  the  top.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  about  a  half  hour,  until  a  nice  brown.  Serve  hot. 

BOBOTEE 

1  pint  of  cold  cooked  meat,       2  ounces  of  bread 

chopped  fine  8  sweet  almonds 

^  small  onion  3  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  i  teaspoonful  of  curry 
i  cup  of  milk  powder 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  slice  into  it  the  onion,  and 
fry  until  a  nice  brown  ;  add  the  bread  and  milk  ;  take  from 
the  fire  and  let  stand  ten  minutes.  Blanch  and  chop  the 
almonds  very  fine;  add  these,  the  meat,  the  curry,  and 
the  eggs,  well  beaten,  to  the  ingredients  in  the  frying-pan ; 
mix  all  well  together.  Rub  a  deep  pie-dish  with  butter 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  ;  put  the  mixture  into  this,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  twenty  minutes.  Serve 
with  boiled  rice  in  a  separate  ciish, 


ME  A  TS  99 

CECILS 

2  cups  of  cold  cooked  meat,  chopped  fine 
Yolks  of  two  eggs 

1  tablespoon ful  of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  bread  crumbs 
Y±  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 

i  teaspoon  ful  of  onion  juice 

1  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 

2  dashes  of  black  pepper 

Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  frying-pan,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  thoroughly  hot.  Take  from  the  fire  and  turn  out 
to  cool.  When  cold,  form  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  dip  first  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and 
fry  in  boiling  oil  or  fat.  Serve  with  Bechamel  sauce. 

TOAD  IN  A  HOLE 

i  pint  of  cold  cooked  meat  i  pint  of  milk 

i  egg  y2  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 

6  large  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  one  inch  square,  put  them  in  a 
greased  baking-dish.  Beat  the  egg  very  light,  add  it  to 
the  milk,  and  pour  it  gradually  into  the  flour,  beating  all 
the  while.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve  ;  add  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  pour  it  over  the  meat.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
one  hour.  When  done,  serve  it  quickly  in  the  dish  in 
which  it  was  baked. 

BEEFSTEAK  PIE 

1  quart  of  cold  cooked  meat,  cut  into  dice 

2  slices  of  bacon,  cut  into  small  pieces 
6  medium-sized  potatoes,  cut  into  dice 
Salt  and  pepper 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  butter 

Line  a  baking-dish  with  plain  paste.  Cover  the  potatoes 
with  boiling  water  and  parboil  them  ten  minutes;  then 
drain.  Put  a  layer  of  the  meat  in  the  bottom  of  the 


100  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

baking-dish,  then  a  layer  of  the  potatoes,  then  a  few  pieces 
of  the  bacon,  and  a  few  pieces  of  the  paste,  about  an  inch 
square  ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  ;  then  put  in  an- 
other layer  of  meat,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used.  Cut  the 
butter  into  bits,  and  put  it  over  the  last  layer.  Cover 
with  plain  paste,  making  a  small  hole  in  the  centre,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Make  a  cream  or  brown  sauce,  and  when  the  pie  is 
done,  place  a  funnel  in  the  hole  in  the  upper  crust  and 
pour  the  sauce  into  the  pie  through  it.  Serve  in  the  dish 
in  which  it  was  baked. 

BEEF  CROQUETTES 

Make  same  as  chicken  croquettes,  leaving  out  the  sweet- 
breads, and  using  one  pint  of  cold  cooked  beef  instead  of 
chicken. 

MEAT  RISSOLES 

Make  a  plain  hash  (see  recipe)  and  stand  it  out  to  cool. 
Roll  out  any'pieces  of  plain  or  puff  paste  left  from  pies  or 
patties ;  cut  into  cakes  with  a  cutter  five  inches  in  diam- 
eter j  place  one  tablespoonful  of  the  hash  a  little  on  one 
side  of  the  centre  ;  fold  over  the  other  side  of  the  paste, 
'like  a  turnover  ;  press  the  edges  tightly  together,  and  so  on 
until  you  have  them  all  made.  The  recipe  given  will  make 
two  dozen.  Place  them  in  a  baking-pan  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  on  a  heated  napkin, 
with  Bechamel  sauce  in  a  boat. 

TO  PICKLE  BEEF 

The  beef  must  be  fresh  killed.  Wipe  every  piece  with  a 
dry  towel  until  free  from  moisture.  If  the  pieces  are  very 
large,  gash  them  with  a  knife,  here  and  there,  to  allow  the 
brine  to  penetrate.  To  fifty  pounds  of  meat  allow  one 


ME  A  TS  101 

and  a  half  ounces  of  saltpetre,  one  and  a  half  pounds  of 
brown  sugar,  about  nine  or  ten  gallons  of  water,  and 
sufficient  Liverpool  salt  to  make  a  brine.  Mix  the  sugar, 
saltpetre  and  water  together  ;  add  the  salt  until  the  brine 
will  float  an  egg  or  a  potato.  Have  ready  the  meat  in  a 
tub  or  barrel,  pour  the  brine  upon  it,  skimming  off  what- 
ever may  float.  Cover  well  with  a  thick  cloth,  and  watch 
it  carefully  for  one  week,  skimming  every  day.  The  brine 
must  cover  the  meat.  If  the  quantity  of  water  given  is  not 
sufficient,  make  more  brine  from  salt  and  water,  and  add  to 
it.  In  about  two  months,  drain  this  brine  off,  throw  it  away, 
and  cover  with  a  new  brine  made  the  same  as  before.  In 
this  way  your  meat  will  keep  the  entire  year  perfectly  sweet. 
It  will  be  ready  to  use  after  it  has  been  in  pickle  two  weeks. 
The  skimming  is  an  important  point,  also  the  Liverpool 
salt.  Tongues  may  be  put  in  the  same  tub,  one  or  two  at 
a  time,  to  remain  four  weeks  before  smoking.  They  require 
about  one  week's  smoking.  When  done,  wrap  each  tongue 
and  sew  tightly  in  coarse  muslin  ;  then  hang  in  a  dark, 
cool  place. 

TO  CORN   BEEF    FOR   DRYING  (Grandmother's  Recipe) 

Cut  a  round  of  beef  into  four  pieces.  Rub  each  piece 
lightly  with  salt  on  all  sides,  and  let  it  stand  one  day  be- 
fore corning.  Make  a  brine  from  one  tub  of  water,  a  half- 
pound  of  sugar,  a  teaspoon ful  of  powdered  saltpetre,  and 
salt  until  the  brine  will  float  an  egg.  Put  the  meat  into 
this  brine,  and  allow  it  to  remain  two  weeks.  Cover  it 
carefully  and  look  at  it  frequently.  See  that  the  brine 
covers  the  meat ;  if  not,  make  a  little  more  from  salt  and 
water  and  add  to  it.  At  the  end  of  the  two  weeks,  take 
out  the  meat  and  hang  it  in  a  cool  place,  to  dry.  It  may 
be  smoked,  but  many  think  this  destroys  the  flavor. 


102  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

The  latter  part  of  October,  March  or  April  are  the 
best  times  for  corning  beef.  If  the  weather  is  too  warm, 
the  meat  will  spoil  before  it  dries ;  if  too  cold,  it  will  not 
take  the  salt  well. 

This  recipe  will  answer  also  for  mutton  hams. 

TO  CORN  BEEF  FOR  BOILING 

Wipe  the  meat  carefully  and  rub  hot  salt  into  it  until  all 
disappears ;  then  add  more  salt  and  rub  again,  and  so  on 
until  the  meat  will  imbibe  no  more.  Place  it  in  a  jar  or 
crock,  stand  in  a  cold,  dry  cellar  for  one  week,  turning  it 
every  day,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

This  recipe  is  for  small  quantities  of  meat,  to  use  as 
soon  as  corned. 

TO  BOIL  CORNED  BEEF 

Wash  it  well,  and  put  it  on  to  boil  in  cold  water.  Bring 
slowly  to  a  simmer,  and  simmer  thirty  minutes  to  every 
pound. 

If  the  meat  is  to  be  served  cold,  allow  it  to  cool  in 
the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled. 

If  for  a  hot  dinner,  you  may  boil  with  it  cabbage,  tur- 
nips and  potatoes,  allowing  an  hour  and  a  half  for  the 
cabbage,  one  hour  for  turnips,  and  twenty  minutes  for  the 
potatoes  to  cook. 

PRESSED  CORNED  BEEF 

Take  six  pounds  of  the  brisket  of  beef,  remove  the  bones 
and  tie  it  tightly  in  a  cloth.  Put  it  in  a  kettle  and  cover 
with  cold  water.  Simmer  gently  for  five  hours.  When 
done,  take  it  out,  place  it  between  two  tin  sheets  or  large 
plates,  put  a  heavy  weight  upon  it  over  night.  Remove 
the  cloth,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 


ME  A  TS  103 

FRIZZLED  BEEF 

Chip  dried  beef  very  thin.  To  every  half-pound  allow  a 
large  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  half-pint  of  milk,  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan, 
then  add  the  meat,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  about  two  min- 
utes, or  until  the  butter  begins  to  brown  ;  dredge  in  the 
flour,  stir  again,  then  add  the  milk  and  a  little  pepper,  stir 
again  until  it  boils,  and  serve  immediately. 

FRICASSEE   OF    DRIED    BEEF 

Cook  the  same  as  frizzled  beef,  but  use  two  even  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  instead  of  one.  Add  the  beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs  just  as  you  take  it  from  the  fire. 

Corned  beef's  liver  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  way. 

DRIED  BEEF  RELISH 

This  is  a  way  to  use  up  the  hard,  small  ends  of  dried  beef, 
that  you  cannot  cut. 

Grate  the  meat,  and,  to  every  cupful,  allow  four  table 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  four  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  a  little 
pepper.  Put  the  meat  and  cream  into  a  stewing-pan  ; 
when  hot,  add  the  eggs;  stir  until  the  mixture  becomes 
thick.  Serve  immediately  on  squares  of  buttered  toast. 

STEWED  BEEF'S  HEART 

Soak  the  heart  three  hours  in  cold  water,  remove  the  mus- 
cles from  the  inside,  and  take  out  every  atom  of  blood. 
Make  a  forcemeat  as  follows :  One  cup  of  bread  crumbs, 
one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  tablespoonful  of 
melted  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  marjoram,  half  a  teaspoon  - 
ful  of  salt,  and  two  dashes  of  black  pepper ;  mix,  and  stuff 
the  heart.  Tie  it  together  with  twine,  and  wrap  tightly  in 
a  cloth,  sewing  the  ends  together  so  that  the  stuffing  cannot 
possibly  get  out.  Put  it  into  a  small  stewpan  with  the 


104  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

point  of  the  heart  down,  nearly  cover  with  boiling  water, 
and  simmer  until  tender — about  three  hours.  When  done, 
there  should  be  about  a  pint  of  water  in  the  stewpan. 
Remove  the  cloth  and  dish  the  heart.  Put  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  in  the  frying-pan,  and  when  brown  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour;  mix  well,  and  add  the  water  in 
which  the  heart  was  boiled;  stir  constantly  until  it  boils; 
add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Take  from  the  fire,  and,  if  you 
use  it,  add  four  tablespoon  fuls  of  sherry ;  pour  it  over  the 
heart,  and  serve  very  hot,  as  it  chills  quickly.  Currant 
jelly  should  always  be  served  with  beef's  heart. 

BAKED  BEEF'S  HEART 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  stewed  heart,  remove  the  cloth, 
place  the  heart  in  a  baking-pan,  baste  with  melted  butter, 
and  brown  in  a  quick  oven.  When  done,  place  it  on  a 
heated  dish.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  the  baking- 
pan,  and,  when  brown,  add  two  tablespoon  fuls  of  flour, 
and  a  pint  of  the  water  in  which  the  heart  was  stewed  ;  stir 
constantly  until  it  boils,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry.  Pour  it  over  the  heart,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

SPICED    BEEF'S  HEART 

Soak  the  heart  three  hours  in  cold  water,  remove  the  mus- 
cles from  the  inside  and  take  out  every  atom  of  blood. 
Mix  together  one  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  a  half-teaspoonful 
of  cloves,  a  half-teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  a  quarter-tea- 
spoonful  of  mace  or  nutmeg,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
and  two  dashes  of  black  pepper.  Put  this  mixture  into 
the  heart,  rub  a  little  on  the  outside,  and  stand  in  a 
cold  place  over  night.  In  the  morning,  finish  the  same  as 
a  baked  heart.  Have  all  the  spices  finely  ground. 


ME  A  TS  105 

HEART  WITH  VEAU  STUFFING 

Soak  and  clean  as  in  the  preceding  recipes.  Make  a  filling 
as  follows  :  One  pound  of  uncooked  veal,  chopped  fine,  a 
quarter-pound  of  salt  pork,  chopped  fine,  or  a  quarter- 
pound  of  sausage-meat,  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  dried 
bread  crumbs,  a  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter-teaspoonful  of  black  pepper, 
if  you  like,  a  dozen  mushrooms,  chopped  fine,  and  one 
egg  slightly  beaten.  Mix  all  these  ingredients  well  together, 
and  stuff  the  heart.  Wrap  tightly  in  a  cloth  and  sew  it. 
Stand  it  in  a  small  saucepan,  with  the  point  down,  cover 
with  boiling  water,  and  simmer  slowly  three  hours;  then  take 
it  out  and  remove  the  cloth.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  one 
hour,  basting  every  ten  minutes  with  a  little  melted  butter. 
Serve  with  a  brown  sauce,  the  same  as  baked  heart. 

This  is  also  a  nice  cold  dish,  cut  in  thin  slices,  using 
no  sauce. 

STEWED  KIDNEYS 

Be  sure  that  the  kidneys  are  perfectly  fresh.  Split  them  in 
halves  ;  trim  off  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife,  as  carefully  as 
possible,  the  sinews  and  fat  that  are  inside.  Now  cut  the 
kidneys  into  small  pieces,  put  in  a  stewing-pan,  cover  with 
cold  water,  stand  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  bring  almost  to 
boiling  point.  Drain  this  water  off,  cover  with  fresh  cold 
water,  and  heat  again.  Do  this  three  times,  each  time 
being  careful  that  it  does  not  boil,  or  the  kidney  will  be 
hard  and  tough.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  stir  until  a  nice  brown  ;  then  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour  and  a  half-pint  of  stock  or  boiling 
water.  Stir  constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  it  boils. 
Now  add  one  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  one 
tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup,  salt  and  pepper,  and 


106  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

the  kidney.  Stir  agaia  until  the  kidney  is  thoroughly 
heated ;  take  from  the  fire,  add  four  tablespoon fuls  of 
sherry,  and  serve  immediately. 

KIDNEY  SAUTE 

Split  the  kidney  in  halves  lengthwise,  and  trim  off,  as  care- 
fully as  possible,  every  sinew  and  all  the  fat  from  the  inside. 
Cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Put  two  tablespoon  fuls  of  butter 
into  a  frying-pan  ;  when  melted,  add  one  small  onion  cut 
into  slices,  and  the  kidney;  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
over  a  brisk  fire,  for  about  three  minutes  ;  then  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour;  stir  again,  then  add  one  gill  of 
stock  or  water,  one  gill  of  sherry ;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Stir  again  about  one  minute,  and  serve  immediately. 

KIDNEY         Terrapin  Style 

Prepare  and  cleanse  the  kidney  the  same  as  for  stewing. 
Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  ;  when 
melted,  add  to  it  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix,  add  a 
half-pint  of  milk,  stir  constantly  until  it  boils ;  add  the 
kidney,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Stir  with  a  wooden 
spoon  until  the  kidney  is  thoroughly  heated.  Take  from 
the  fire,  add  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  two  tablespoon  fuls  of 
sherry,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Serve 
immediately.  Calf's  liver  may  be  dressed  in  the  same 
way. 

TO  CORN  A  BEEF'S  LIVER 

Make  a  brine  from  two  gallons  of  water,  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  brown  sugar,  a  half-ounce  of  saltpetre,  and 
salt  until  the  brine  will  float  an  egg.  Pour  it  into  a  stone 
or  earthen  vessel.  Wash  and  wipe  a  perfectly  healthy 
beef's  liver,  put  it  into  this  brine,  and  allow  it  to  remain 
for  one  week ;  then  take  it  out  and  hang  it  to  dry  in  a  cool 
place.  When  dry,  chip  and  frizzle  the  same  as  dried  beef. 
This  is  the  nicest  way  of  using  beef's  liver. 


ME  A  TS  107 

FRIED  BEEF'S  LIVER 

Cut  the  liver  into  slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness, pour  boiling  water  over  them  ;  let  stand  five  minutes, 
then  wipe  them,  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Put 
three  or  four  slices  of  fat  bacon  in  a  frying-pan  and  try 
out  all  the  fat ;  then  put  in  the  liver ;  fry  on  one  side,  then 
turn  and  fry  on  the  other.  Do  not  cook  it  long  (about 
two  minutes)  or  it  will  be  hard,  dry,  and  indigestible. 
When  done,  spread  lightly  with  butter,  and  serve. 

It  is  also  very  nice  served  with  maitre  d' hotel  butter. 

TRIPE 

Tripe  is  the  large  stomach  of  the  ruminating  animals,  and 
is  chiefly  composed  of  fibrin,  albumen,  and  water.  It  is 
nutritious  and  easily  digested. 

To  prepare. — Scald  the  stomach  with  boiling  water  suf- 
ficiently to  loosen  the  inside  coating.  If  properly  scalded, 
it  will  easily  scrape  off.  Wash  it  well  through  several  boil- 
ing waters,  then  put  it  into  cold  water  and  soak  over  night. 
Scrape  again  until  white  and  clean.  Place  it  in  a  stewpan, 
cover  with  cold  water ;  add  one  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley, 
twelve  whole  cloves,  and  twelve  pepper-corns.  Simmer 
gently  for  six  hours,  and  it  is  ready  to  use  in  any  way.  It 
is  usually  sold  in  cities  cleaned,  but  not  boiled. 

STEWED  TRIPE 

Cut  two  pounds  of  boiled  tripe  (half  honeycomb  and  half 
plain)  into  pieces  about  one  and  a  half  inches  long  and 
a  half-inch  wide.  Cut  two  ounces  of  ham  into  dice,  and 
put  it  in  a  stewpan,  add  a  slice  of  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley, 
and  one  bay  leaf.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  brown,  then  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix,  add  one  pint  of  milk. 
Stir  constantly  until  it  boils,  then  add  the  tripe,  salt,  and 


108  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

pepper,  and  let  it  stand  over  a  very  moderate  fire  for  five 
minutes.  Remove  the  onion,  parsley,  and  bay  leaf,  and  it 
is  ready  to  serve. 

FRIED  TRIPE 

It  is  better  to  give  tripe  its  long  boiling  the  day  before  you 
want  it.  Cut  the  tripe  into  pieces  about  the  size  of  an 
oyster,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  let  stand  ten  minutes. 
Dip  first  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry 
in  boiling  fat.  Serve  with  sauce  Tartare. 

It  may  also  be  dipped  in   French  fritter  batter  and 
fried.     Serve  without  sauce. 

BROILED  TRIPE 

Cut  boiled  tripe  into  pieces  about  two  inches  square,  season 
with  salt  and  cayenne,  baste  lightly  with  melted  butter, 
and  broil  until  brown  on  one  side,  then  turn  and  brown 
the  other.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  with  onion  sauce  in  a 
boat. 

TRIPE  WITH  MUSHROOMS 

Cut  two  pounds  of  boiled  tripe  into  pieces  about  one  inch 
square.  Cut  a  quarter-pound  of  salt  bacon  into  slices,  and 
try  out  all  the  fat ;  take  out  the  bacon  and  throw  it  away. 
Season  the  tripe  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  it  with 
flour,  then  brown  it  on  both  sides  in  the  hot  bacon- fat. 
Take  it  carefully  out  of  the  fat  and  put  it  on  a  hot  dish  ; 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the  fat  remaining,  mix, 
add  a  half-pint  of  stock  or  water,  and  a  dozen  mushrooms, 
chopped  fine;  stir  until  it  boils.  Then  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar  ;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pour  it  over 
the  tripe,  and  serve  very  hot.  Sherry  may  be  used  instead 
of  vinegar,  if  liked. 


ME  A  TS  109 

TRIPE  AND  OYSTERS 

50  oysters  i  pound  of  boiled  tripe 

i  pint  of  cream  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour    Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Boil  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  one  minute ;  drain. 
Put  the  cream  and  a  half-pint  of  the  liquor  on   to  boil. 
Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  and  stir  into  the  boiling 
cream  ;  stir  constantly  until  it  boils,  add  the  tripe  cut  into 
pieces  about  one  inch  square;  let  come  to  a  boil,  add  salt 
and  pepper,  and  then  the  oysters,  bring  to  a  boil  again  and 
serve  very  hot. 

SOUSED  TRIPE 

2  pounds  of  boiled  tripe       i  pint  of  vinegar 

(honeycomb)  i  blade  of  mace 

1 8  whole  cloves  18  whole  allspice 

12  pepper-corns  yz  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  small  onion 

Cut  the  tripe  into  pieces  about  two  inches  long  and  one 
inch  wide.  Put  all  the  other  ingredients  into  a  porcelain 
kettle  to  boil.  Put  the  tripe  in  a  glass  or  stone  jar,  pour 
the  boiling  vinegar  over  it,  and  stand  away  for  forty-eight 
hours.  It  will  keep  two  or  three  weeks. 

TONGUE 

TO  BOIL  SMOKED  BEEF'S  TONGUE 
Wash  the  tongue  well,  and  soak  it  in  cold  water  over  night. 
In  the  morning  put  it  into  a  kettle  full  of  cold  water,  stand 
it  over  a  very  slow  fire,  and  simmer  gently  for  four  hours, 
or  until  you  can  pierce  it  with  a  fork,  and  it  will  be  per- 
fectly tender.  If  the  water  boils  away,  add  more  boiling 
water.  When  done,  stand  away  to  cool  in  the  liquor  in 
which  it  was  boiled;  when  cold,  remove  the  skin,  begin- 
ning at  the  tip,  and  stripping  it  back,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 


110  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

If  you  wish  to  serve  it  as  a  hot  meat  dish  for  dinner, 
take  it  out  when  done;  skin,  place  on  a  heated  platter, 
cover  the  root  end  with  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  garnish  the 
dish  with  black-currant  jelly.  Another  very  pretty  way  to 
serve  cold  boiled  tongue,  is  to  cut  it  in  thin  slices, 
arrange  the  slices  around  a  large  meat  plate,  each  one  over- 
lapping the  other,  with  sauce  Tartare  in  the  centre  of  the 
dish.  Make  six  button  radishes  into  tulips  (as  directed), 
stand  them  at  equal  distances  around  the  dish.  Nastur- 
tium flowers  may  be  placed  between,  with  little  bunches  of 
water-cress. 

BRAISED  TONGUE 

1  fresh  beef's  tongue  2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  i  quart  of  stock  or  the  water 
i  carrot  in  which  the  tongue  was 
i  onion  boiled 

Sprig  of  parsley  i  turnip 

1  potato  Stalk  of  celery  or  one-half 

2  bay  leaves  teaspoon ful     of     celery 
i  tablespoonful    of  Wor-             seed 

cestershire  sauce  i  tablespoon  ful  of  mushroom 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste  catsup 

Wash  the  tongue,  put  it  into  a  kettle  and  cover  with  boiling 
water ;  simmer  slowly  for  two  hours.  Then  take  out  the 
tongue,  skin  it,  trim  off  the  rough  pieces  at  the  roots,  and 
remove  the  bones.  Now  tie  the  tip  of  the  tongue  around 
to  the  side  of  the  thicker  part ;  fasten  it.  Now  put  the 
butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  brown  it,  then  add  the  flour ; 
mix  well ;  then  add  the  stock  and  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  and 
potato,  sliced,  parsley,  bay  leaves,  Worcestershire  sauce, 
and  catsup ;  stir  until  it  boils.  Put  the  tongue  in  a  baking 
or  braising-pan,  pour  this  sauce  around  it ;  if  in  a  baking- 
pan,  cover,  put  it  in  the  oven,  and  bake  two  tyours,  basting 
every  fifteen  minutes.  When  done,  dish  the  tongue,  re- 


ME  A  TS  111 

move  the  strings.  Boil  the  sauce  until  reduced  to  one 
pint,  pour  it  over  and  around  the  tongue,  and  serve.  This 
may  be  garnished  with  mushrooms,  or  vegetables  cut  into 
fancy  shapes. 

TURKISH    TONGUE 
(  Sophia  Wells    Royce  Williams  ) 

i  fresh  beef's  tongue  3  button  onions 

y?  dozen  cloves  6  pepper-corns 

YZ  pound  of  raisins  ^  pound  of  dates 

i  carrot,  cut  into  fancy        A  heaping  teaspoon ful  of 

shapes  salt 

Wash  the  tongue,  put  it  in  a  kettle,  cover  with  boiling 
water  and  simmer  two  hours.  Then  take  it  out,  skin  it 
and  tie  into  shape,  the  same  as  for  braised  tongue.  Pour 
the  water  out  of  the  soup-kettle  (this  may  be  saved  for 
soup),  return  the  tongue  to  the  kettle,  and  add  all  the  other 
ingredients ;  cover  with  two  quarts  of  fresh  boiling  water, 
and  simmer  gently  two  hours  longer.  Serve  with  some  of 
the  raisins  and  carrots  around  the  dish. 

LARDED    AND    SPICED    TONGUE 

1  fresh  beefs  tongue  ^  teaspoon  ful  of  black 
Y\  pound  of  larding  pork  pepper 

YZ.  teaspoonful  of  cloves  2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 

YZ  teaspoonful  of  allspice  2  tablespoon  fuls  of  flour 

YI  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  onion 

2  bay  leaves  i  carrot 

Wash  the  tongue,  put  it  into  boiling  water,  and  simmer 
gently  two  hours.  Take  it  out,  remove  the  skin  and  trim 
off  the  roots.  Put  the  butter  in  a  large  stewpan,  and  when 
brown  add  the  flour,  then  add  one  quart  of  the  liquor  in 
which  the  tongue  was  boiled  (save  the  remainder  for  stock)  ; 
stir  constantly  until  it  boils,  then  add  the  spices,  the  onion 
chopped  fine,  and  the  carrot  cut  into  fancy  shapes.  Lard 
the  tongue  on  the  upper  syie  the  same  as  a  fillet,  put  it  into 


112  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

the  stewpan,  and  simmer  gently  for  two  hours,  adding  a 
quarter  teaspoonful  of  coriander  seed  one  hour  before  it  is 
done.  Serve  with  the  under  side  of  the  tongue  down,  and 
the  sauce  poured  over  and  around  it.  The  coriander  seed 
may  be  omitted. 

FILLETS    OF   TONGUE 

Cut  any  pieces  of  cold  tongue  that  may  be  Jeft  from  either 
of  the  preceding  dishes  in  slices  about  a  half-inch  thick. 
Fry  them  in  butter,  and  serve  with  mushroom  sauce. 

TONGUE   ON    TOAST 

i  cup  of  cold  boiled  tongue  or  ham 

Yolks  of  two  eggs 
fy  teaspoonful  of  mustard 

Dash  of  cayenne 

Chop  the  tongue  or  ham  very  fine.  Beat  the  yolks  until 
light,  add  them  to  tongue  or  ham,  add  the  seasoning,  stir 
the  whole  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  are  cooked.  Serve 
immediately  on  squares  of  buttered  toast. 

MUTTON 

Mutton  is  usually  divided  into  fore  and  hind  quarters.  The 
hind  quarter  is  sub-divided  into  leg  and  loin,  the  fore 
quarter  into  shoulder,  breast  and  neck.  A  saddle  of  mut- 
ton is  two  loins.  Mutton  is  very  much  better  if  hung  at 
least  one  week  in  cold  weather,  but  three  weeks  will  not 
hurt  it.  The  flesh  of  good  Southdown  mutton  should  be  a 
bright  red  color,  the  fat  firm  and  white;  and  the  fatter  the 
mutton  the  better  and  more  tender  the  lean  parts.  The 
leg,  shoulder,  and  loin  make  nice  roasting  pieces.  The 
breast  and  neck  are  used  for  soups  and  stews.  The  loins 
are  also  cut  into  loin  and  French  chops. 


ME  A  TS  113 

BAKED  LEG  OF    MUTTON 

Procure  a  nice  well-hung  leg  of  Southdown  mutton  weigh- 
ing not  less  than  ten  pounds.  Wipe  it  with  a  damp  towel, 
place  in  a  baking-pan,  dredge  with  pepper,  add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  to  one  cup  of  boiling  water,  and  pour  it 
into  a  pan.  Now  place  the  pan  in  a  very  hot  oven,  and  baste 
every  ten  minutes,  adding  no  more  water  after  the  first 
evaporates,  as  there  will  be  sufficient  fat  for  basting.  Bake 
fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound.  Decorate  the  bone  with  a 
quilling  of  white  paper,  and  serve  with  brown  sauce,  the 
same  as  roast  beef.  To  roast  in  the  tin  kitchen,  proceed  in 
the  same  manner  as  for  roast  beef. 

MUTTON       Venison  Style 

Take  a  hind  quarter  of  a  good  four-year-old  Southdown 
mutton.  Wash  it  well,  inside  and  out,  with  cider  vinegar; 
do  not  wipe  it,  but  hang  in  a  cold,  dry  place, — not  in 
the  cellar  if  you  can  possibly  find  another  place,  as  the 
moisture  of  a  cellar  is  very  apt  to  spoil  the  meat.  Sponge 
in  this  way  every  other  day  for  one  week.  Then  mix  a  quar- 
ter ounce  each  of  white  pepper  and  allspice  together,  and 
rub  well  into  the  meat.  Do  this  two  days  in  succession, 
and  let  it  hang  another  week.  When  ready  to  use,  sponge 
off  the  spices  with  vinegar,  and  wipe  dry.  Roast  the  same 
as  a  leg  of  mutton,  adding  to  the  sauce,  just  before  you  pour 
it  into  the  boat,  one  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup, 
one  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  if  you  use 
wine,  four  tablespoon fuls  of  sherry.  Serve  with  red  or 
black  currant  jelly  in  a  separate  dish. 

BOILED    LEG    OF    MUTTON 

Wipe  the  leg  with  a  damp  towel.  Dust  a  cloth  thickly 
with  flour,  and  wrap  the  leg  up  in  it.  Put  it  into  a  kettle, 
cover  with  boiling  water,  and  simmer  gently  fifteen  minutes 


114  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

to  every  pound;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  when  the  leg  is 
half  done.  When  done,  remove  the  towel  carefully,  gar- 
nish with  parsley,  trim  the  bone  with  quilled  paper,  and 
serve  with  caper  sauce  either  in  a  sauce-boat  or  poured  over 
the  mutton.  Save  the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled  for 
stock. 

BRAISED  LEG  OF  MUTTON 

Wipe  the  leg  with  a  damp  towel.  Slice  one  carrot,  one 
onion,  one  turnip,  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking  or  braising 
pan,  add  also  two  bay  leaves,  one  stalk  of  celery,  four 
cloves,  and  a  sprig  of  parsley.  Place  the  leg  on  top  these 
vegetables,  add  one  quart  of  water  or  stock  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Put  on  the  lid,  if  a  braising-pan ;  if  a 
baking-pan,  cover  with  another  pan.  Put  into  a  quick 
oven,  and  braise  fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound.  When 
done,  take  out  on  a  heated  dish.  Put  one  large  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  a  nice 
brown  ;  then  add  two  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix,  and  add 
one  pint  of  the  liquor  from  braising-pan ;  stir  constantly 
until  it  boils ;  add  one  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire 
sauce,  one  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Pour  this  over  and  around  the  leg.  Serve 
currant  jelly  with  it. 

SADDLE  OF    MUTTON 
(  Baked  or  Roasted  in  the  Oven  ) 

Bake  or  roast  the  same  as  a  leg,  ten  minutes  to  every  pound 
of  meat. 

SHOULDER    OF    MUTTON 

This  maybe  roasted  plain,  or  have  the  bone  taken  out,  and 
the  space  filled  with  a  bread  stuffing,  the  same  as  for  poul- 
try. Bake  fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound. 


ME  A  TS  115 

BROILED    CHOPS 

Chops  are  broiled  exactly  the  same  as  beefsteak,  trimming 
off  most  of  the  fat  before  broiling.  Serve  plain  with  but- 
ter, pepper  and  salt,  or  with  tomato  sauce. 

French  chops  are  broiled  in  the  same  manner,  deco- 
rating the  bones  with  paper  quillings. 

BREADED   CHOPS 

Broil  French  chops  ten  minutes,  turning  them  very  often. 
Take  them  from  the  broiler,  baste  with  melted  butter,  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper ;  let  them  stand  ten  minutes. 
Then  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  bread  crumbs,  and 
fry  in  boiling  fat.  Fill  the  bottom  of  a  meat  dish  with 
tomato  sauce,  slip  the  paper  quillings  over  the  end  of  the 
bones,  and  arrange  the  chops  nicely  in  the  sauce.  Garnish 
with  parsley,  and  serve  very  hot. 

BREADED  CHOPS  WITH  PUREE  OF  POTATOES 

Broil  and  bread  the  chops  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe. 
Have  ready  six  boiled  potatoes,  mash  them  fine,  add  a  half- 
cup  of  boiling  cream,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  and  a  dash  or  two  of  pepper ;  beat 
over  the  fire  until  light.  Place  in  the  centre  of  a  heated 
dish,  stand  the  chops  around  it,  trim  each  bone  with  paper 
quillings,  and  serve  very  hot. 

BROILED  CHOPS  WITH  POTATO  PUREE 

Broil  French  chops  as  directed.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of 
potato  puff  mixture  on  each  chop,  and  place  in  a  baking- 
pan.  Brown  in  a  quick  oven,  decorate  the  bones  with 
papers,  garnish  with  parsley  and  serve  immediately,  or  the 
potato  will  fall. 


116  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

MUTTON    en    PAPILLOTE 

1/2  pound  sausage  meat  6  loin  cutlets 

Yolk  of  one  egg  i  onion 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  hot,  brown  the  cutlets  on  both  sides.  Take  them  out, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  the  remainder  of  the 
butter  to  the  frying-pan,  the  onion  cut  into  slices,  and  the 
sausage  meat ;  stir  over  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes.  When 
done,  take  from  the  fire,  add  the  yolk  of  the  egg  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Cut  six  pieces  of  white 
paper  in  a  heart-like  shape,  large  enough  to  hold  one  cutlet 
each.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  the  mixture  on  one  side  of 
the  paper;  put  a  cutlet  on  top  of  this,  then  another  spoon- 
ful of  the  mixture  on  top  of  that,  fold  the  other  half  of  the 
paper  over  all.  The  edges  should  then  be  folded  together 
tightly  one  over  the  other.  Place  them  in  a  hot  oven 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  in  the  papers  with  Bechamel 
sauce. 

CURRY   OF  MUTTON 

i  pint  of  finely  chopped  ^  cupful  of  rice 

mutton  i  tablespoonful    curry 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  powder 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  2  quarts  boiling  water 

Salt  to  taste 

Wash  the  rice  and  put  it  in  the  boiling  water;  let  it  boil 
thirty-five  minutes.  Drain  in  a  colander.  Now  put  the 
butter  in  a  frying-pan  ;  when  melted,  add  the  flour  and  stir 
until  smooth ;  add  a  half-pint  of  boiling  water ;  let  boil 
up  once,  then  add  meat,  curry  and  salt.  Stir  ten  minutes. 
Now  heap  it  in  the  centre  of  a  meat  dish,  and  put  the  rice 
around,  in  a  border.  Brush  all  over  with  beaten  egg,  and 
place  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes  to  brown. 


MEA  TS  117 

SCALI.OP   OF  MUTTON 

Take  scraps  of  cold  mutton  and  cut  in  small  pieces ;  put  a 
layer  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish,  then  a  layer  of  stewed 
tomatoes,  then  a  layer  of  bread  crumbs ;  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  put  over  a  few  bits  of  butter,  then  another 
layer  of  meat,  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  full.  Have  the 
last  layer  crumbs.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  one  and  a 
half  hours. 

SHEPHERD'S  PIE 

i  pound  of  cold  mutton  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  pint  of  cold  boiled  pota-       ^  cup  of  stock  or  water 
toes  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

THE   CRUST 

4  good-sized  potatoes 
j^"  cup  of  cream 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Cut  the  mutton  and  boiled  potatoes  into  pieces  about  one 
inch  square ;  put  them  in  a  deep  pie  or  baking-dish,  add 
the  stock  or  water,  salt,  pepper,  and  half  the  butter  cut  into 
small  bits.  Then  make  the  crust  as  follows :  Pare  and  boil 
the  potatoes,  then  mash  them,  add  the  cream,  the  remain- 
der of  the  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  beat  until  light.  Now 
add  flour  enough  to  make  a  soft  dough — about  one  cupful. 
Roll  it  out  into  a  sheet,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the 
crust,  to  allow  the  escape  of  steam.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  one  hour,  serve  in  the  same  dish. 

HOT   POT 

2  pounds  of  cold  cooked  mutton 

6  medium-sized  potatoes 

2  large  onions 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 

i  quart  of  water  or  stock 

Cut  the  mutton  into  pieces  about  one  inch  square.  Pare  and 
cut  four  of  the  potatoes  into  dice,  also  the  onions.  Put  a 


118  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

layer  of  the  mutton  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish,  then  a 
layer  of  potatoes,  then  a  sprinkling  of  onion,  parsley,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  continue  these  alternations  until  all  is  used. 
Cut  the  remaining  two  potatoes  into  three  slices  each  ; 
cover  these  over  the  top,  add  the  water  or  stock,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours.  •  Serve  in  the  baking- 
dish. 

RAGOUT   OF  MUTTON 

Cut  cold  mutton  or  lamb  into  pieces  about  one  inch  square. 
Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and,  when 
very  brown,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  mix ;  add  a 
half-pint  of  stock  or  water ;  stir  constantly  until  it  boils, 
then  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
Worcestershire  sauce.  Now  add  one  pint  of  the  mutton, 
and  stand  the  frying-pan  over  boiling  water  for  fifteen 
minutes,  until  the  mutton  is  thoroughly  heated.  Add  one 
tablespoonful  of  currant  jelly  and  one  of  sherry.  Send 
to  the  table  very  hot. 

CHINESE   MUTTON 

1  pint  of  cold  roast  or  boiled  mutton,  chopped  fine 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
YV  pint  of  water  or  stock 

y<2,  pint  of  green  peas  or  ^  can 

i  onion 

Small  head  of  lettuce 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  mutton,  butter,  stock,  peas  (uncooked,  if  green), 
salt,  pepper,  lettuce,  and  onion  chopped  fine  on  to  stew 
slowly  for  one  hour.  When  done,  have  ready  one  cup  of 
rice  nicely  boiled.  Put  the  mixture  in  the  centre  of  a 
heated  dish,  and  the  rice  as  a  border  around  it,  and  serve. 
Curry  sauce  may  be  served  with  the  dish,  and  is  a  nice 
accompaniment. 


ME  A  TS  119 

IRISH  STEW 

3  pounds  of  the  neck  of  mutton 

4  potatoes,  cut  into  dice 
4  good-sized  onions 

2  quarts  of  water 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  cover  with  the  water,  which 
should  be  boiling,  add  the  onions  sliced  and  simmer  gently 
for  three  hours.  About  half  an  hour  before  the  meat  is 
done  add  the  potatoes.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and, 
if  you  like  it,  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Serve. 

Dumplings  may  be  added  the  same  as  in  stew  of  beef 
with  dumplings. 

HARICOT    OF    MUTTON 

2  pounds  of  loin  chops  i  turnip 

2  onions  i  carrot 

i  bay  leaf  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  ^  pint  of  water  or  stock 
catsup  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  stalk  of  celery  Salt  and  pepper 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and,  when  very  hot,  fry  the 
chops  brown  on  both  sides ;  take  them  up,  and  add  the 
flour  to  the  butter  remaining  in  the  pan  ;  mix,  and  add 
the  stock  or  water ;  stir  constantly  until  it  boils.  Then  put 
the  chops  back,  add  the  onions  cut  into  slices,  salt,  pepper, 
the  celery  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  the  catsup.  Stand  over 
a  slow  fire  to  simmer  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Cut 
the  carrot  and  turnip  into  slices,  then  into  fancy  shapes 
with  vegetable  cutters ;  cover  them  with  boiling  water,  boil 
ten  minutes;  drain,  and  add  them,  with  the  bay  leaf,  to 
the  meat,  and  allow  them  to  simmer  with  the  meat  the  full 
time  it  is  cooking.  When  done,  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
sherry,  if  you  use  it,  and  serve  very  hot. 


120  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

SHEEP'S    HEAD    HASH 

Clean  a  sheep's  head,  according  to  directions  for  cleaning 
calf's  head,  then  put  it  on  to  stew  with  the  liver  and  heart 
well  washed,  add  one  onion,  and  simmer  gently  one  and  a 
half  hours.  When  done,  take  out  and  stand  away  to  cool. 
When  cold,  take  all  the  meat  from  the  head,  chop  it  with 
the  heart  and  liver  very  fine.  Now  put  them  into  a  stew- 
ing-pan,  add  one  large  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  one 
pint  of  water,  or  liquor  in  which  they  were  boiled,  salt  and 
pepper ;  let  stew  up  once,  and  serve  with  squares  of  toast 
around  the  dish. 

DRESSED    SHEEP'S    HEAD 

A  sheep's  head  may  be  dressed  the  same  as  a  calf's  head, 
using  two  heads  instead  of  one  calf's  head. 

SHEEP'S    TONGUE 

Fresh  sheep's  tongues  may  be  braised  the  same  as  beef's 
tongue,  using  one  dozen  for  the  recipe  given. 

TO  BOIL  SALT  OR  SMOKED  SHEEP'S  TONGUES 

Wash  one  dozen  sheep's  tongues,  and  soak  them  over  night 
in  cold  water.  In  the  morning,  put  them  in  a  kettle  of 
cold  water  and  bring  them  slowly  to  a  boil ;  skim  all  the 
scum  from  the  top,  and  simmer  two  hours.  When  done, 
skin  and  serve  around  a  bed  of  kale  or  spinach. 

SHEEP   KIDNEYS  en  BROCHETTE         No.  i 

6  sheep's  kidneys 
%  pound  of  bacon 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Cut  each  kidney  through  the  centre  lengthwise,  remove  the 
white  veins  and  fat.  Wash  well  in  cold  water,  cover  with 
boiling  water  and  let  stand  five  minutes,  then  wipe  them 


ME  A  TS  121 

dry.  Cut  the  bacon  into  slices,  and  then  into  pieces  the 
size  of  a  half-kidney.  Place  one  piece  of  kidney  on  a 
skewer,  then  a  piece  of  bacon,  then  kidney,  and  so  on, 
allowing  about  three  pieces  of  bacon  and  two  pieces  of 
kidney  to  each  skewer.  Place  them  on  a  broiler,  baste  with 
the  butter,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire  five  minutes.  Dust 
lightly  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  on  the  skewers. 
These  make  a  very  nice  breakfast  relish. 

SHEEP   KIDNEYS    en    BROCHETTE         No.   2 

Cut  six  sheep's  kidneys  nearly  through  without  dividing, 
take  out  the  white  veins,  wash  and  scald  the  same  as  in 
preceding  recipe.  Wipe  them  dry,  and  baste  them  with 
melted  butter.  Run  a  small  skewer  through  each  kidney 
in  such  a  way  as  to  keep  the  halves  partly  open.  Broil 
them  over  a  clear  fire  for  about  five  minutes,  take  them 
carefully  from  the  skewers,  dust  them  lightly  with  salt  and 
pepper,  fill  the  centres  with  Bearnnaise  sauce,  and  serve 
immediately. 

LAMB 

Lamb,  like  mutton,  should  be  of  a  bright  red  color  with 
white  fat.  It  is  in  season  from  April  to  September,  but  is 
best  when  two  months  old.  It  will  not  keep  like  mutton, 
and  should  be  used  at  least  within  three  days  after  killing. 
Like  veal,  it  is  unwholesome  if  not  thoroughly  cooked. 
The  better  way  of  cooking  is  to  roast  or  bake  it.  The  loin 
may  be  cut  into  chops  and  cooked  the  same  as  mutton 
chops. 

TO  BAKE  OR  ROAST  A  QUARTER  OF  LAMB 

Wipe  the  meat  with  a  damp  towel,  place  it  in  a  baking-pan, 
and  dredge  it  with  pepper.  Put  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  in 


122  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

the  bottom  of  the  pan,  add  one  cup  of  water  to  baste  with 
at  first.  When  that  evaporates,  use  its  own  drippings. 
Lamb  must  be  basted  every  ten  minutes  and  baked  fifteen 
minutes  to  every  pound,  in  a  very  hot  oven. 

Mint  sauce,  green  peas,  and  asparagus  tips  should  be 
served  with  spring  lamb. 


VEAL 

Veal  is  divided,  the  same  as  mutton,  into  fore  and  hind 
quarters;  the  fore  quarter  is  sub-divided  into  loin,  breast, 
shoulder,  and  neck ;  the  hind,  into  leg  and  loin. 

Chops  are  cut  from  the  loin,  and  the  leg  is  used  for 
cutlets  and  fillets.  The  fillet  is  a  solid  piece  cut  from  the 
leg,  also  called  a  cushion,  and  does  not  correspond  with 
the  fillet  of  beef. 

Do  not  buy  veal  that  is  too  young,  as  it  is  not  only 
unwholesome,  but  dangerous.  It  may  be  known  by  the 
small  and  tender  bones  ;  the  flesh  has  a  bluish  tinge  and  a 
soft,  flabby  appearance.  A  calf  should  not  be  killed  until 
it  is  two  months  old,  then  the  flesh  is  firm,  with  a  pinkish 
tinge,  and  the  bones  are  hard. 

The  loin,  shoulder,  fillet,  and  breast  are  used  for  roast- 
ing. The  knuckle,  which  is  the  lower  part  of  the  leg  after 
'the  cutlets  are  taken  off,  and  the  neck,  are  used  for  soups, 
stews  and  pies. 

ROAST  LOIN  OF  VEAL 

Wipe  the  loin,  place  it  in  a  baking-pan,  dredge  it  with 
pepper,  add  a  teaspoon ful  of  salt  and  cup  of  water  to  the 
pan,  place  in  a  very  quick  oven  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then 
cool  the  oven  somewhat  by  closing  the  drafts,  or  lifting  a 


ME  A  TS  123 

lid  off  the  stove  if  necessary,  and  roast  slowly  fifteen  min- 
utes for  every  pound  of  veal,  basting  frequently,  at  first 
with  the  water  in  the  pan,  and  afterwards  with  its  own  gravy. 
Veal  must  be  well  done  to  be  eatable.  When  done,  make 
a  gravy  the  same  as  roast  beef. 

STUFFED   BREAST  OF  VEAL 
FOR   THE   STUFFING 

i  cup  of  bread  crumbs  ^  pound  of  salt  pork 

i  teaspoonful  of  sweet  i  teaspoonful  of  thyme 

marjoram  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

2  dashes  pepper 

Chop  the  pork  very  fine,  add  it  and  all  the  other  ingredi- 
ents to  the  bread  crumbs.  Wipe  a  breast  of  veal  with  a 
damp  towel;  make  long  gashes  between  the  ribs,  and  fill 
with  this  stuffing.  Place  it  in  a  baking-pan,  and  roast  and 
finish  the  same  as  the  loin. 

ROAST  SHOULDER    OF   VEAL 

Have  the  butcher  remove  the  bone  from  the  shoulder,  fill 
the  space  from  which  the  bone  was  taken  with  a  stuffing 
made  the  same  as  for  the  breast ;  pin  the  meat  together 
with  a  skewer  to  prevent  the  stuffing  from  coming  out,  and 
roast  the  same  as  in  preceding  recipes. 

VEAt  CUTLETS 

Have  the  cutlets  as  thin  as  possible.  Dust  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  flour.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  dripping  in  a  frying-pan, 
and,  when  very  hot,  put  in  the  cutlets ;  when  brown  on  one 
side,  turn  and  brown  on  the  other;  take  out  and  place  on 
a  heated  dish.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the  fat 
remaining  in  the  pan,  mix,  and  stir  until  brown  ;  add  a 
half-pint  of  water,  stir  until  it  boils,  add  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  pour  over  the  cutlets,  and  serve. 


124  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

VEAL  CUTLETS  BREADED 

Have  the  cutlets  as  thin  as  possible,  cover  them  with  boiling 
water,  let  stand  one  minute,  drain  and  wipe  dry.  Cut  into 
pieces  about  two  inches  square.  Dip  first  in  beaten  egg 
and  then  in  bread  crumbs.  Put  two  tablespoon fuls  of  drip- 
ping in  a  frying-pan ;  when  hot,  fry  the  cutlets  first  on 
one  side  and  then  on  the  other.  Dish,  and  serve  with 
brown  gravy  made  according  to  preceding  recipe  or  with 
maitre  d' hotel  butter. 

GRENADINES  OF  VEAL 

These  are  made  the  same  as  grenadines  of  beef. 

A  BREAKFAST  RELISH 

Cut  a  cutlet  of  veal  into  pieces  about  two  inches  square, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  first  into  beaten  egg, 
then  into  chopped  mushrooms.  Put  two  tablespoon  fuls  of 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and,  when  hot,  fry  the  cutlets  until 
brown.  Make  a  brown  sauce  the  same  as  for  veal  cutlets, 
pour  over  the  squares,  and  serve. 

VEAL  CROQUETTES 

Veal  croquettes  are  made  precisely  the  same  as  chicken 
croquettes,  using  chopped  veal  and  leaving  out  the  sweet- 
breads (calf's  brains  may  be  added  in  their  place),  and,  if 
made  carefully,  good  judges  can  scarcely  discern  the  dif- 
ference. 

I  remember  upon  one  occasion  my  college  class  pre- 
pared a  supper,  from  a  limited  sum  of  money,  for  the 
remainder  of  the  students,  numbering  nearly  two  hundred. 
As  our  purse  would  not  warrant  chicken,  and  we  must  have 
croquettes,  we  used  for  them  a  leg  of  veal,  boiled  with  one 
lonely  chicken  ;  and  the  croquettes  were  pronounced  excel- 
lent by  all,  one  gentleman  asking  for  one  to  take  home  to 
his  wife,  that  she  might  taste  a  perfect  chicken  croquette. 


MEATS  125 

FRICANDELLES  OF  VEAL 

i  pound  of  lean  veal  i  gill  of  milk 

y?,  cup  of  stale  bread  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

crumbs  2  dashes  of  pepper 

i  large  tablespoon ful  of  butter 

Cook  the  bread  crumbs  and  milk  together  until  thick  and 
smooth.  Chop  the  veal  (which  must  be  uncooked)  very 
fine,  add  this  to  the  bread  and  milk,  add  the  salt,  pepper, 
and  butter,  and  stand  the  mixture  away  to  cool.  When 
cool,  form  into  balls  about  the  size  of  an  egg.  Dip  them 
in  beaten  egg  and  fry  in  butter  until  a  light  brown,  being 
very  careful  not  to  burn  them;  take  them  carefully  out 
of  the  pan.  Add  two  tablespoon fuls  of  flour  to  the  butter 
remaining  in  the  pan  if  not  burned — if  it  is,  take  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  fresh  butter  and  brown  it — mix,  add  one  pint 
of  stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Pour  this  into  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  fricandelles,  cover,  and 
simmer  for  one  hour.  When  done,  add  a  tablespoon  ful  of 
Worcestershire  sauce,  and  serve. 

Fricandelles   are   equally   nice    made    from    beef  or 
chicken. 

VEAL  OLIVES 

i^  pounds  of  veal  cutlet,  cut  very  thin 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
i  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter 
i  pint  of  stock  or  boiling  water 
i  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt 
i  tablespoonful  of  sweet  marjoram 
Y^  pound  of  bacon 
i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
i  bay  leaf 

i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup 
Pepper  to  taste 

Cut  the  veal  into  strips  about  three  inches  long  and  two 
inches  wide.  Make  a  filling  from  the  bread  crumbs,  salt, 


126  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

pepper  to  taste,  parsley,  sweet  marjoram,  and  melted  butter. 
Mix  thoroughly  and  spread  on  the  strips  of  veal,  roll  them 
up  and  tie  tightly  with  twine ;  now  roll  them  in  flour.  Put 
the  bacon  in  a  frying-pan,  and  try  out  all  the  fat.  Put  the 
olives  in  this,  and  brown  them  on  all  sides.  Now  put  them 
in  a  saucepan,  add  the  flour  to  the  fat  remaining  in  the 
pan,  and  stir  until  a  nice  brown  ;  then  add  the  stock  or 
boiling  water,  and  stir  until  it  boils ;  add  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste;  pour  it  over  the  olives;  add  the  bay  leaf  and 
mushroom  catsup,  cover  the  saucepan,  and  let  simmer  for 
two  hours.  Then  take  up,  cut  the  strings  with  a  sharp 
knife,  and  remove  them.  Put  the  olives  in  a  row  on  the 
dish,  strain  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

FRICANDEAU    OF  VEAL 

4  pounds  of  the  fillet  of  veal    i  carrot 
i  onion  i  bay  leaf 

1  stalk  of  celery  i  turnip 

2  sprigs  of  parsley  ^  pound  of  larding  pork 

i  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

Cut  the  larding  pork  into  lardoons,  and  lard  the  fillet 
thickly  over  one  side.  Clean  the  vegetables,  cut  them  into 
slices,  and  put  them  into  a  braising  or  baking-pan  with  the 
bay  leaf,  salt  and  parsley.  Lay  the  fricandeau  on  the  top 
of  these  with  the  larded  side  uppermost,  and  pour  around 
it  one  quart  of  stock  or  water.  Put  the  lid  on  the  braising- 
pan,  or  cover  the  baking-pan  with  another,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  two  hours,  basting  four  times.  When  done, 
dish  the  fricandeau,  and  make  a  sauce  as  follows : — 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

i  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce 
i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  a 
dark  brown  ;  then  add  the  flour,  mix,  and  strain  the  liquor 


MEATS  127 

from  the  braising-pan  into  this,  which  should  be  one  pint — 
if  not,  add  stock  or  water ;  stir  constantly  until  it  boils. 
Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  sauce  and  catsup,  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste,  pour  around  the  fricandeau,  and  serve. 

Green  peas  are  an  appropriate  accompaniment  to  this 
dish. 

VEAL  POT  PIE 

i  knuckle  of  veal  i  quart  of  sifted  flour 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt  2  teaspoon fuls  of  baking 

i  large  spoonful  of  lard  powder 

i  small  onion  yz  pint  of  milk 

3  pints  of  water 

Put  the  water  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  knuckle,  onion  and 
salt,  and  let  all  simmer  until  the  meat  is  tender — about  an 
hour  and  a  quarter.  There  must  be  at  least  two-thirds  of 
a  quart  of  liquor  when  the  meat  is  done ;  if  it  has  evapo- 
rated, add  hot  water  to  make  sufficient  quantity.  Put  the 
flour  into  a  bowl,  add  the  salt,  then  rub  in  the  lard ;  add 
the  baking-powder,  mix,  and  moisten  with  the  milk.  Roll 
out  on  a  board,  cut  with  a  round  cutter,  and  place  over 
the  top  of  the  meat ;  cover  the  stewpan  and  boil  fifteen 
minutes. 

VEAL  PIE 

i  knuckle  of  veal  ^  pound  of  ham 

i  onion  4  potatoes,  medium  size 

i  large  tablespoon ful  of         i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
butter  parsley 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wipe  the  knuckle,  put  it  in  a  kettle,  partly  cover  it  with 
water,  add  one  onion,  and  simmer  gently  one  hour.  Pare 
the  potatoes  and  cut  them  into  dice ;  parboil  fifteen  min- 
utes and  drain.  When  the  veal  is  done,  cut  all  the  meat 
from  the  bone,  return  the  bone  to  the  kettle,  and  let  it 
simmer  two  or  three  hours  longer  for  stock.  Cut  the  ham 
into  dice.  Line  a  two-quart  tin  basin  with  plain  paste, 


128  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

and  cut  the  trimmings  from  the  edge  into  squares.  Now 
put  a  layer  of  potatoes  in  the  bottom,  then  a  layer  of  veal, 
then  a  sprinkling  of  ham,  the  squares  of  paste,  parsley,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  a  few  bits  of  butter,  and  follow  these  alter- 
nations until  all  is  used.  Roll  out  the  top  crust,  make  a 
hole  in  the  centre,  wet  the  edges  of  the  pie  with  cold  water, 
put  on  the  top  crust,  press  the  edges  together,  and  trim. 
Bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  thirty  minutes,  or  until  the  crust 
is  done.  While  this  is  baking,  prepare  the  sauce. 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  melted,  add  two  even  tablespoon fuls  of  flour,  mix, 
but  do  not  brown  ;  add  a  half-pint  of  the  liquor  in  which 
the  knuckle  was  boiled,  and  a  half-pint  of  milk,  stir  con- 
stantly until  it  boils";  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  take  from 
the  fire,  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  and  pour  it  into  the  pie,  when  done, 
through  a  funnel  placed  in  the  opening  of  the  upper  crust. 
Serve  immediately. 

STEWED  KNUCKLE  OF  VEAL 

Wipe  the  knuckle  well  with  a  damp  towel.  Cut  it  into 
pieces  where  it  has  been  cracked.  Put  it  into  a  kettle  with 
two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  add  one  onion  cut  into  slices, 
one  carrot  cut  into  fancy  shapes,  half  a  pound  of  ham  cut 
into  dice,  and  one  bay  leaf.  Cover  and  stew  slowly  for  two 
hours,  then  add  a  half-cup  of  washed  rice,  stew  thirty  min- 
utes longer,  and  serve. 

VEAL  LOAF 

3^  pounds  of  veal          .  ^  pound  of  ham 
i  cup  of  bread  crumbs        2  eggs 

i  teaspoon ful  of  salt  ^  teaspoon ful  of  pepper 

i  teaspoonful  of  onion  ^  teaspoonful  of  sage 

juice  YZ  teaspoonful  of  cloves 

YZ  teaspoonful  of  allspice 

Chop  the  uncooked  veal  and  ham  very  fine ;  add  to  them 


ME  A  TS  129 

all  the  other  ingredients,  the  eggs  well  beaten ;  mix  thor- 
oughly, and  press  into  a  square  pan  to  mould.  Turn  it 
out  on  a  baking-pan,  brush  it  over  with  beaten  egg,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  two  hours,  basting  three  or  four 
times  while  baking  with  a  tablespoon  ml  of  butter  melted 
in  a  half-cup  of  boiling  water.  Serve  cold,  cut  in  thin  slices. 

JELLIED    VEAL 

1  knuckle  of  veal  1 2  whole  cloves 

2  onions  6  pepper-corns 

i  blade  of  mace  ^  teaspoon ful  of  ground 

i  bay  leaf  allspice 

i  gill  of  good  vinegar  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Wipe  the  knuckle  and  cut  it  into  pieces ;  put  it  in  a  kettle 
with  two  quarts  of  cold  water ;  bring  it  slowly  to  simmer- 
ing point ;  skin,  and  simmer  gently  for  two  hours ;  then 
add  the  onion,  mace,  bay  leaf,  cloves,  pepper-corns,  and 
allspice,  and  simmer  one  hour  longer.  Take  out  the 
knuckle,  carefully  remove  the  bones,  and  put  the  meat 
into  a  square  mould.  Boil  the  liquor  until  reduced  to  one 
quart ;  strain,  add  the  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
pour  it  over  the  meat,  and  stand  it  away  over  night  to 
cool.  When  cold,  turn  it  carefully  out  of  the  mould, 
garnish  it  with  parsley  and  lemon,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

RAGOUT    OF   VEAL         No.  i 

For  this,  the  remains  of  a  cold  fricandeau  or  roast  may  be 
used,  cut  into  pieces  about  one  inch  square.  To  every 
pint  of  these  squares  allow 

y2  pint  of  stock  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  catsup 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour      2  tablespoon fuls  of  sherry 
i  tablespoonful  of  Wor-     i  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice 
cestershire  sauce          i  blade  of  mace 
6  mushrooms,  chopped  fine 


130  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  stir  until  a  nice  brown; 
then  add  the  flour,  and  brown  again  ;  then  add  the  stock ; 
stir  until  it  boils,  then  add  the  mushrooms,  mace,  onion 
juice,  mushroom  catsup,  sauce,  salt  to  taste.  Mix,  and 
add  the  veal.  Place  over  a  very  moderate  fire  to  simmer 
for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  take  from  the  fire,  add  the  wine 
(if  you  use  it),  garnish  with  boulettes  of  potatoes,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

RAGOUT   OF  VEAL        No.  2 

Cut  any  pieces  of  cold  roast  veal  into  nice  squares.  To 
every  pint  of  these  squares  allow 

i  pint  of  stock  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 

YZ  pint  of  mushrooms  or       2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

i  ounce  of  truffles  i  gill  of  Madeira,  if  you  use 

3  hard-boiled  eggs  wine 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Brown  the  butter,  add  the  flour ;  mix ;  add  the  stock  and 
half  the  wine,  then  the  meat,  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour ; 
then  add  the  mushrooms  or  truffles  chopped  into  small 
pieces,  the  yolks  of  the  hard-boiled  eggs,  mashed ;  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  ;  cook  ten  minutes  longer.  Take  from  the 
fire,  add  the  remainder  of  the  wine,  and  serve,  garnished 
with  sweetbread  croquettes  made  into  very  small  cylinders. 
This  dish  is  fully  worth  its  trouble. 

GALANTINE    OF    VEAL 

i  breast  of  veal  i  pint  of  milk 

1  knuckle  of  veal  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

y?,  box  of  gelatine  2  dashes  of  black  pepper 

2  cups  of  cold  boiled  ham,      2  dashes  of  cayenne 

chopped  fine  Yolks  of  three  eggs 

8  tablespoonfuls  of  dried       i  onion 
bread  crumbs  2  bay  leaves 


ME  A  TS  131 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped      3  cloves 

parsley  i  stalk  of  celery 

i  teaspoonful    of    French       i  small  carrot 

mustard  i  blade  of  mace 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil,  add  to  it  the  bread  crumbs ;  stir 
constantly  until  it  thickens ;  then  add  the  yolks,  mustard, 
chopped  parsley,  cayenne  and  ham.  Mix  all  together. 
Bone  the  breast,  sprinkle  it  with  salt  and  pepper.  Now 
spread  the  mixture  over  the  breast,  roll  it  up  and  tie  with 
twine ;  then  wrap  it  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth  and  sew 
tightly.  Put  in  the  bottom  of  a  soup  kettle  the  bones 
from  the  breast,  the  knuckle  of  veal,  three  quarts  of  cold 
water,  the  onion,  bay  leaves,  cloves,  celery,  carrot,  and 
blade  of  mace.  Place  it  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  bring 
it  slowly  to  a  boil.  As  soon  as  it  boils,  skim  carefully, 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  then  put  in  the  breast 
of  veal ;  simmer  for  three  hours,  then  take  out  the  veal, 
remove  the  cloth,  put  it  on  a  flat  dish,  and  stand  away 
to  cool.  Cover  the  gelatine  with  a  half-cup  of  cold 
water,  and  let  it  soak  one  hour.  Simmer  the  knuckle  one 
hour  longer  after  removing  the  veal,  then  add  to  it  the 
gelatine  strained  through  a  sieve,  and  clarify  the  same  as 
Bouillon.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  away  to 
cool,  but  not  harden.  When  cool,  put  a  layer  of  the 
liquid  in  the  bottom  of  a  mould  large  enough  to  hold 
the  veal,  stand  it  on  the  ice,  and,  when  hard,  place  the 
veal  on  top  of  it,  and  pour  the  remainder  of  the  liquor  in 
the  mould.  (There  should  be  just  enough  to  cover  the 
veal.)  Stand  in  a  very  cold  place  over  night.  When 
ready  to  serve,  wipe  the  outside  of  the  mould  with  a  warm 
towel,  place  a  meat  dish  over  the  top  of  the  mould,  turn  it 
upside  down,  and  remove  the  mould  carefully,  leaving  the 
galantine  in  centre  of  dish.  Garnish  with  parsley,  and 
serve  with  sauce  Tartare. 


132  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

ITALIAN    CHEESE 

i  pound  of  veal  2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 

i  yz  pounds  of  calf 's  liver  parsley 

j£  pound  of  ham  y£  box  of  gelatine 

i  small  onion  i  heaping  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

^  teaspoon  ful  of  pow-      ^  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper 

dered  sage  A  dash  of  cayenne 

Wash  the  liver,  then  cover  with  boiling  water,  let  it  stand 
five  minutes,  then  take  it  from  the  water  and  dry  on  a 
towel.  Chop  the  liver,  the  veal  and  the  ham  (all  un- 
cooked) very  fine  ;  then  add  the  sage,  parsley,  salt,  black 
pepper,  cayenne  and  the  onion,  grated.  Mix  well.  Grease 
a  plain  mould  well  with  butter  ;  press  the  meat  tightly  into 
the  mould,  cover,  and  boil  or  steam  three  hours.  When 
you  remove  the  lid,  you  will  find  the  meat  has  shrunk, 
leaving  a  half-inch  of  space  partly  filled  with  liquid.  Care- 
fully drain  this  liquid  off,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  over  the 
fire,  add  to  it  the  gelatine  (which  should  have  been  covered 
with  cold  water  and  soaked  a  half-hour)  and  sufficient 
water  to  fill  the  space  and  cover  the  cheese.  Stir  until  the 
gelatine  is  dissolved  ;  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  pour 
back  into  the  mould  around  the  cheese  and  stand  away  in 
a  cold  place.  When  cold,  turn  out  of  the  mould ;  garnish 
with  slices  of  lemon  and  parsley,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

If  properly  made,  the  meat  should  be  encased  in  a 
jelly. 

CALF'S   HEAD    CHEESE. 

i  calf's  head  i  teaspoonful   of  sweet  mar- 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt  joram 

i  teaspoonful  of  summer    i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
savory  parsley 

i^  teaspoonful  of  pepper 

Clean  the  calf's  head  as  directed  in  Dressed  Calf's  Head, 
simmer  it,  in  hot  water  enough  to  cover,  for  one  and  a  half 


ME  A  TS  133 

hours,  or  until  the  meat  leaves  the  bones.  When  done, 
take  it  out  carefully,  remove  the  bones,  chop  the  meat  and 
add  the  other  ingredients.  Have  ready  a  small  bag  made 
from  cheese-cloth,  pack  the  mixture  into  it,  tie  the  bag 
tightly  and  hang  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  turn  the  bag, 
wrong  side  out,  off  the  meat,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Serve 
cold,  cut  in  thin  slices. 

DRESSED   CALF'S    HEAD         No.  i 

i  calf's  head  with  the  skin  on     i  stalk  of  celery 
i  quart  of  water  3  whole  cloves 

i  bay  leaf  6  nice  tomatoes,  baked 

i  onion  Salt 

Have  the  butcher  saw  the  top  of  the  head,  and  take  out  the 
brains.  Now  wash  the  head  well  in  cold  water ;  cover  with 
clean  cold  water,  and  soak  one  hour ;  then  scald  the  nasal 
and  throat  passages  with  boiling  water ;  wash  again  in  cold 
water,  and  see  that  the  throat  is  perfectly  free  from  any 
foreign  matter.  Put  it  on  to  boil  with  the  onion,  bay  leaf, 
celery,  cloves,  salt  and  water,  simmer  gently  till  tender — 
about  three  hours — skimming  carefully  at  the  first  boil. 
Remove  the  fibre  from  the  brains,  then  put  them  into  a 
small  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  simmer  gently  for  fifteen  minutes; 
take  them  out,  cut  into  small  pieces  with  a  silver  knife, 
and  stand  aside  until  wanted.  When  the  head  is  done, 
take  it  from  the  water,  remove  the  tongue,  skin  and  cut 
into  slices.  Cut  the  meat  from  the  head  carefully.  Put 
it  with  tongue  and  brains  in  the  centre  of  a  heated  meat- 
plate,  and  keep  warm  while  preparing  the  sauce.  Put  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  brown,  add  to  it 
two  even  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  ;  mix  until  smooth ;  then 
add  one  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  head  was  boiled, 
stir  constantly  until  it  boils,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of 


134  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

mushroom  catsup,  a  tablespoon ful  of  Worcestershire  sauce, 
a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  dashes  of  cayenne,  and  five 
mushrooms  chopped  fine.  Simmer  the  whole  one  minute. 
Place  the  baked  tomatoes  around  the  calf's  head,  pour  the 
sauce  over  the  whole,  and  serve. 

The  tomatoes  may  also  be  cut  into  slices  and  fried. 
If  you  use  wine,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  sherry  to  the 
sauce  at  serving  time. 

DRESSED    CALF'S  HEAD         No.    2 

Saw  the  head  into  halves,  lengthwise  through  the  skull. 
Take  out  the  brains,  throw  them  into  cold  water  for  one 
hour.  Take  out  the  eyes  and  teeth.  Wash  and  cleanse  the 
same  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe.  Put  it  in  a  kettle, 
nearly  cover  with  boiling  water ;  place  over  a  moderate 
fire,  skim  and  simmer  gently  for  one  hour,  then  add  one 
onion,  one  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  four  cloves  and  a 
blade  of  mace  ;  simmer  for  a  half-hour  longer.  While  this 
is  cooking,  clean  the  brains,  remove  all  the  membrane,  and 
parboil  them  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  put  them  away  to 
cool.  When 'cold,  cut  into  thick  slices,  dip  first  in  egg  and 
then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  stand  one  side  until  wanted. 
When  the  calf's  head  is  done,  take  it  out  carefully,  skin  the 
tongue,  brush  the  head  over  with  beaten  egg,  then  sprinkle 
with  crumbs  and  chopped  parsley.  Brown  in  a  quick  oven. 
Plunge  the  brains  into  boiling  fat  just  long  enough  to 
brown.  Serve  one-half  of  the  head  at  a  time,  garnished  with 
parsley,  slices  of  lemon  and  the  brains  around  the  dish. 

Sheep's  head  may  be  served  in  the  same  way,  and  is 
very  nice. 

CALF'S    BRAINS 

i  tiny  onion  i  bay  leaf 

i  teaspoon  ful  of  salt  i  clove 


MEATS  135 

Use  the  brains  left  from  the  mock  turtle.  As  soon  as  the 
head  conies  home,  throw  the  brains  into  a  bowl  of  ice-cold 
water,  and  let  them  stand  one  hour.  Then  remove  the  fine 
skin  and  blood-vessels  that  are  all  around  them.  Now  put 
them  in  a  small  saucepan,  cover  with  cold  water,  add  the 
onion,  bay  leaf,  salt,  and  clove,  and  simmer  gently  five 
minutes.  Take  from  fire,  drain,  and  put  on  ice  to  cool. 
When  cold,  cut  in  four  nice  pieces,  dip  first  in  egg  and  then 
in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Garnish  with  pars- 
ley and  serve,  with  French  peas  around  them. 

BRAISED    LIVER 

calf's  liver  carrot 

onion  bay  leaf 

stalk  of  celery  turnip 

sprigs  of  parsley  ^  pound  of  larding-pork 

pint  of  stock  or  water  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

tablespoon ful   of   mush-  tablespoonful  of  Worces- 

room  catsup  tershire  sauce 
i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

Wash  the  liver,  and  lard  it  the  same  as  fillet  of  beef.  Wash 
and  cut  the  vegetables  into  slices,  and  put  them  in  the  bot- 
tom of  a  braising-pan  if  you  have  one,  if  not,  in  a  deep 
baking-pan ;  lay  the  liver  on  the  bed  of  vegetables,  add  the 
stock  or  water,  put  a  lid  over  the  pan,  and  bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  for  two  hours.  When  done,  dish  the  liver. 
Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  a 
nice  brown,  add  the  flour;  mix  and  strain  the  liquor  from 
the  other  pan  into  this,  which  should  be  about  a  half-pint. 
Stir  continually  until  it  boils,  then  add  the  Worcestershire 
sauce,  and  mushroom  catsup.  Pour  over  and  around  the 
liver,  and  serve. 

Beef's  liver  may  be  braised,  but  is  never  so  nice  as 
calf's  liver. 


136  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

STEWED   LIVER 

i  pound  of  calf's  liver  i  pint  of  water 

i  tablespoon ful  of  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

YL  a  small  onion 

Cut  the  liver  into  slices,  and  again  into  pieces  about  two 
inches  square.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  dripping  in  a 
frying-pan,  add  to  it  the  flour,  and  stir  until  brown.  Now 
add  the  water,  stir  constantly  until  it  boils,  pour  it  into  a 
stewing-pan  with  the  liver  and  onion,  cover  and  simmer 
gently  one  hour ;  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

LIVER  AND    BACON 

i  pound  of  calf's  liver      ^  pound  of  bacon 
YZ  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

A  dash  of  black  pepper 

Cut  the  liver  into  thin  slices  and  scald  it ;  wipe  dry.  Cut 
the  bacon  into  as  many  thin  slices  as  you  have  slices  of 
liver.  Put  the  bacon  in  a  frying-pan  and  fry  until  brown, 
then  take  it  out,  put  on  a  heated  dish  and  keep  it  warm. 
Dust  the  liver  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  and  fry  it  in  the 
bacon-fat.  When  a  nice  brown,  arrange  it  on  the  heated 
dish  with  a  slice  of  bacon  on  each  slice  of  liver.  Add  the 
flour  to  the  fat  remaining  in  the  pan ;  mix,  add  a  half-pint 
of  boiling  water,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour  it  around 
the  liver,  and  serve. 

LIVER  AND   ONIONS 

Fry  the  liver  and  bacon  as  in  preceding  recipe.  Have  ready 
onions,  prepared  the  same  as  in  beefsteak  and  onions,  add 
them  to  the  fat  remaining  in  the  pan,  cook  two  minutes, 
and  heap  on  top  the  liver  and  bacon. 

BROILED     LIVER 

Cut  the  liver  into  slices  and  scald  it.  Then  wipe  it  dry, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  first 


ME  A  TS  137 

on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other ;  it  will  take  about  five 
minutes.  When  done,  spread  lightly  with  butter,  and 
serve  on  a  heated  dish. 

LIVER  WITH  BROWN  SAUCE 

i  pound  of  calf's  liver  2  slices  of  bacon 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour         y2  pint  boiling  stock  or  water 
i  tablespoonful  of  i  tablespoonful  of  mush- 

Worcestershire  sauce  room  catsup 

Salt  to  taste 

Cut  the  liver  in  slices,  cover  it  with  boiling  water,  and  let 
it  stand  five  minutes  to  draw  out  the  blood.  Now  take  it 
out  and  wipe  it  dry.  Dredge  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 
Try  out  the  bacon  in  a  frying-pan.  Then  put  the  liver 
into  this  hot  bacon-fat,  fry  brown  on  one  side,  turn,  and 
brown  the  other.  Place  it  on  a  hot  dish  with  the  bacon, 
cut  in  small  pieces.  Now  add  the  flour  to  the  fat  in  the  pan, 
and  stir  until  a  nice  rich  brown ;  add  the  boiling  stock 
or  water ;  stir  again  until  it  boils,  now  add  the  Worcester- 
shire sauce,  mushroom  catsup,  and  salt  to  taste.  Pour  it 
over  the  liver,  and  serve. 

LIVER  ROLLS 

i  pound  of  calf's  liver      ]/^  pound  of  bacon 

i  small  onion  i  bay  leaf 

i  sprig  of  parsley  i  tablespoonful  of  Worcester- 

i  tablespoonful  of  mush-  shire  sauce 

room  catsup  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

YZ  teaspoon  fid  of  salt 

Have  the  liver  cut  into  thin  slices.  Cover  with  boiling 
water  and  let  stand  five  minutes ;  take  it  out  of  the  water 
and  wipe  dry.  Cut  the  bacon  into  thin  slices,  and  again 
into  pieces  about  two  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide.  Put 
one  piece  of  the  bacon  on  a  slice  of  the  liver,  then  roll  it 
up  and  tie  tightly  with  twine,  and  so  continue,  making  one 
roll  of  each  piece  of  liver.  Dredge  these  thickly  with  flour. 


138  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Put  the  remainder  of  the  bacon  in  a  frying-pan,  and  try 
out  all  the  fat.  Brown  the  rolls  in  this  fat,  and  then  put 
them  in  a  stewing-pan.  Add  the  flour  to  the  fat  remain- 
ing in  the  frying-pan,  mix,  and  add  one  pint  of  water  or 
stock ;  stir  constantly  until  it  boils,  and  pour  it  over  the 
rolls;  add  the  Worcestershire  sauce,  the  mushroom  catsup, 
a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  onion,  bay  leaf  and  parsley. 
Cover,  and  let  simmer  gently  one  hour.  When  done,  dish 
the  rolls,  remove  the  strings.  Strain  the  sauce  over  and 
around  them. 

SWEETBREADS 

Calf's  sweetbreads  only  should  be  used  for  food,  and,  as 
they  spoil  very  quickly,  they  should  be  thrown  in  cold 
water  the  moment  they  come  from  the  market ;  after  soak- 
ing one  hour,  trim  them  free  from  fat,  lard  or  not,  as  you 
wish,  put  them  into  boiling  water ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  stand  them  over  a  very  moderate  fire,  and  parboil 
fifteen  minutes ;  then  throw  them  into  cold  water  for  five 
minutes,  remove  carefully  any  skin  or  rough  parts,  and 
then  put  them  in  the  coldest  place  you  have  until  you  are 
ready  to  cook  them.  In  this  way  they  will  keep  thirty  or 
forty  hours.  Always  parboil  the  sweetbreads  in  a  porcelain 
.or  granite  saucepan,  and  use  a  silver  knife  in  cutting,  as 
they  contain  a  peculiar  phosphoric  acid  that  acts  upon  iron 
or  tin,  entirely  destroying  their  flavor. 

BAKED    SWEETBREADS   AND   PEAS        No.  i 

2  pairs  of  sweetbreads  Lard  ing -pork 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter        i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
^  pint  of  milk  i  can  of  French  peas 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Trim  the  fat  from  the  sweetbreads  and  parboil  fifteen  min- 
utes. Now  lard  them  with  five  lardoons  each,  put  them 
in  a  small  baking-pan,  dredge  them  with  salt,  pepper,  and 


MEATS  139 

flour,  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  stock  or  water,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Baste  every  ten  minutes.  When  they  are  nearly  done,  put 
the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  add  to  it  the  flour  (do  not 
brown),  and  mix  until  smooth ;  add  the  milk,  stir  until  it 
boils,  then  add  the  French  peas  drained  free  from  all  liquor. 
Stir  again  until  they  boil.  Dish  the  sweetbreads  in  the 
centre  of  the  dish  with  the  peas  around  them. 

BAKED  SWEETBREADS    AND   PEAS        No.  2 

Trim,  lard  and  bake  the  sweetbreads  as  in  the  preceding 
recipe.  Drain  the  liquor  from  a  can  of  French  peas,  turn 
them  into  a  small  saucepan,  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  little  pepper;  heap 
in  the  centre  of  a  heated  dish,  put  the  sweetbreads  around, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

SWEETBREADS   FRIED 

Wash,  trim,  and  parboil  the  sweetbreads  fifteen  minutes. 
Then  cut  them  in  nice  pieces,  dip  them  first  into  egg,  then  in 
bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 

SWEETBREADS  a  la  CREME 

i  pair  of  sweetbreads  5  mushrooms 

i  tablespoon ful  of  butter          i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

YZ  pint  of  cream 

Parboil  the  sweetbreads  as  directed ;  pick  them  to  pieces, 
rejecting  all  the  fine  membranes,  then  chop  rather  fine. 
Chop  the  mushrooms  very  fine.  Put  the  butter  on  to  melt, 
be  careful  not  to  brown  ;  when  melted,  add  the  flour,  mix 
until  smooth;  add  the  milk,  stir  constantly  until  it  boils; 
add  the  mushrooms  and  sweetbreads,  and  stir  over  the 
steam  of  the  teakettle  for  about  five  minutes,  add  a  half- 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  dash  of  white  pepper.  Serve  in 
silver  shells  or  little  paper  cases. 


140  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

SWEETBREADS  a  la  BECHAMEL 

i  pair  of  sweetbreads  i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  flour          i  gill  of  white  stock 
i  gill  of  cream  6  mushrooms,  chopped  fine 

YZ  teaspoonful  of  salt  2  dashes  of  white  pepper 

Yolks  of  two  eggs 

Wash  and  parboil  the  sweetbreads  as  directed.  Remove 
the  fibrous  skin  and  fat  and  pick  into  small  pieces.  Put 
the  butter  in  saucepan  to  melt,  do  not  brown ;  add  the 
flour,  mix  until  smooth,  then  add  the  stock  and  cream ; 
stir  continually  until  it  boils,  then  add  the  mushrooms  and 
sweetbreads ;  stir  the  whole  over  the  steam  of  the  teakettle 
and  let  stand  there  until  wanted.  When  ready  to  serve 
them,  take  from  the  fire,  add  the  yolks,  well  beaten,  salt 
and  pepper,  and,  if  you  use  it,  one  tablespoonful  of  sherry, 
a,nd  serve  in  a  small  heated  dish  or  individual  paper  cases. 
A  calf's  brain  may  be  parboiled,  mashed,  and  added  to 
the  sauce.  Many  think  this  a  great  improvement. 

SWEETBREADS    BROILED 

Wash  and  parboil  the  sweetbreads,  cut  them  in  half,  length- 
wise, and  stand  them  away  to  cool ;  when  ready  to  broil, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  baste  with  melted  butter. 
Broil  over  a  clear  fire  for  five  minutes.  Serve  hot  with  a 
little  melted  butter  poured  over  them. 

SWEETBREAD   CUTLETS 

i  pair  of  sweetbreads  i  gill  of  cream 

Yolks  of  two  eggs  5  drops  of  onion  juice 

%  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg    ^  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper 
i  tablespoonful  of  butter      2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Trim  and  parboil  the  sweetbreads,  chop  them  fine  with  a 
silver  knife.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil.  Rub  the  butter  and 


ME  A  TS  141 

flour  together  and  stir  into  the  milk  when  boiling;  stir  and 
cook  until  very  thick.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  sweetbreads,  and  seasoning,  salt  to  taste,  and, 
if  you  like,  two  tablespoon fuls  of  chopped  mushrooms ;  mix 
well,  and  turn  out  to  cool.  They  should  stand  at  least 
four  hours  in  a  cold  place  to  form  nicely.  When  cold, 
form  into  cutlets,  dip  first  in  egg  and  then  in  bread 
crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Put  a  quilling  of  white 
paper  in  the  small  end  of  each  cutlet,  and  serve  with  sauce 
Bechamel  or  cream  sauce. 


SWEETBREAD    CROQUETTES 

Make  exactly  the  same  as  the  preceding  recipe,  leaving 
out  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  forming  into  croquettes 
instead  of  cutlets.  Serve  with  peas. 

SWEETBREADS    au    JUS 

2  pairs  of  sweetbreads  i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 

i  bay  leaf  i  slice  of  onion 

10  lardoons  (strips  of  i  clove 

larding-pork)  i  sprig  of  parsley 

i  small  head  of  cauliflower 

Trim  and  lard  the  sweetbreads,  then  parboil  them.  Put 
the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  add  the  onion,  bay  leaf,  clove, 
parsley,  and  sweetbreads,  the  larded  side  up ;  cover  the  pan 
and  stand  it  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  with  the  butter,  and 
baking  for  thirty  minutes.  In  the  mean  time  boil  the 
cauliflower  as  directed  in  recipe  for  boiled  cauliflower, 
break  it  apart  in  the  little  branches,  and  put  it  around  a 
heated  dish.  Take  the  sweetbreads  from  the  oven,  add 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  stock,  boil  up  once.  Dish  the  sweet- 
breads in  the  centre  of  the  cauliflower,  turn  the  gravy  over 
them  through  a  strainer,  and  serve. 


142  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

PORK 

Pork  is  divided  into  leg,  loin,  chine,  shoulder,  spare-rib, 
middlings,  head  and  feet.  The  best  parts  for  roasting  are 
the  loin  and  leg. 

Pork  in  every  form  is  unwholesome  and  indigestible, 
and  should  never  be  eaten  by  persons  with  weak  digestion 
or  by  children,  and  should  not  be  used  by  any  one  except 
in  very  cold  weather.  It  should  always  be  thoroughly 
cooked. 

To  select :  The  lean  must  be  fine-grained,  and  of  a 
pale  red  color;  the  fat  white,  and  the  skin  smooth  and 
clear.  If  the  flesh  is  soft,  the  fat  a  yellowish-white,  and 
full  of  small  kernels,  reject  it,  as  this  is  an  indication  of 
disease. 

SUCKING  PIG      (TO  ROAST) 

TO    PREPARE 

The  pig  should  be  four  weeks  old,  and  should  be  roasted 
the  day  after  it  is  killed.  In  cities,  pigs  are  usually  sent 
from  the  butcher's  prepared  for  the  oven  ;  but  if  it  should 
be  your  lot  to  receive  one  in  its  crude  state,  we  will  give 
these  few  directions  to  follow.  Wash  the  pig  well  in  cold 
water,  and  let  it  remain  in  the  water  ten  minutes.  Have 
ready  a  large  pan  of  boiling  water,  plunge  it  in,  hold  it 
by  the  nose  and  shake  it  vigorously  about,  until  you 
can  pull  the  hairs  out  easily.  Take  it  out,  rub  it  with  a 
very  coarse  crash  towel,  rubbing  from  the  tail  to  the  head  ; 
then  make  a  small  opening  in  the  belly,  take  out  the 
entrails,  and  wash  it  thoroughly  in  cold  water.  Wipe  it 
dry.  Make  a  filling  as  follows  : — 

i  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs 

i  heaping  tablespoonful  of  chopped  suet 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 


ME  A  TS  143 

i  teaspoon ful  of  powdered  sage 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt 
i^  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper 

i  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice 
Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together. 

Remove  the  hoofs  at  the  first  joint,  leaving  the  skin 
long  enough  to  pull  over  the  bone.  If  you  are  not  ready 
to  bake  at  once  give  it  a  cold  pack, — /.  e.,  roll  it  in  a  wet 
towel — and  put  it  one  side  until  wanted.  When  ready,  put 
the  stuffing  in,  sew  the  opening  together,  truss  the  fore  legs 
forward,  and  the  hind  feet  also  forward,  under  and  close 
to  the  body.  Now  wipe  the  pig  carefully  with  a  clean, 
soft,  dry  cloth,  and  place  a  stone  or  cob  in  the  mouth  to 
keep  it  open.  Rub  it  with  melted  butter ;  dredge  very 
lightly  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper.  Roast  before  a  moderate 
fire,  as  it  must  be  thoroughly  done,  or,  if  baked,  the  oven 
must  be  moderately  hot.  Baste  it  with  a  little  salted  hot 
water  at  first,  and  then  with  melted  butter  until  there  is 
sufficient  dripping  in  the  pan.  Roast  from  two  hours  to 
two  and  a  half.  When  the  pig  is  about  half  done,  brush  it 
all  over  lightly  with  melted  butter  or  pure  olive  oil.  When 
done,  place  it  on  a  dish  with  parsley  all  around ;  remove 
the  stone  or  cob  from  the  mouth,  and  put  in  its  place  a 
small  red  apple.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible  with  apple  sauce. 

THE    GRAVY 

Brown  the  pan  in  which  the  pig  was  roasted,  add  to  it 
two  tablespoon  fuls  of  flour,  and  brown  again ;  add  one 
pint  of  boiling  water,  let  it  boil  up  once,  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  take  from  the  fire,  add  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  sherry,  and  serve  in  a  boat. 

TO  CARVE 

Cut  off  its  head,  separate  it   down   the   back   in  halves, 
remove  the  hams  and  shoulders,  and  separate  the  ribs. 
Sucking  pig  may  also  be  stuffed  with  potato  stuffing. 


144  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

ROAST  LEG  OF  PORK 

A  leg  to  be  roasted  should  not  weigh  over  about  six  or 
seven  pounds.  Score  the  skin  with  a  sharp  knife,  in  par- 
allel lines  about  a  half-inch  apart.  Place  it  in  a  baking- 
pan,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  half-cup  of  boiling 
water,  and  place  it  in  a  very  hot  oven,  basting  every  five 
minutes  for  twenty  minutes ;  now  take  the  drafts  off  your 
fire,  and  allow  the  leg  to  roast  moderately,  basting  every 
ten  minutes  with  its  own  gravy.  Roast  twenty-five  minutes 
to  every  pound.  Pork  should  never  be  served  under- done. 
When  done,  dish  and  garnish  with  parsley.  Serve  apple 
sauce  and  horseradish  with  it. 

FOR    THE    GRAVY 

Allow  two  tablespoon fuls  of  fat  to  remain  in  the  pan  (pour 
the  remainder  in  your  dripping-pot),  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour  and  brown  well ;  add  one  pint  of  boiling  water, 
stir  constantly  until  it  boils ;  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
a  half-teaspoon ful  of  powdered  sage,  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  tomato  catsup ;  strain,  and  serve  in  a  boat. 

ROAST  LOIN  OF  PORK 

The  loin  and  shoulder  may  be  roasted  the  same  as  a  leg, 
roasting  the  loin  twenty  and  the  shoulder  twenty-five  min- 
utes to  every  pound. 

ROAST  SPARE-RIB 

Put  the  spare-rib  in  a  baking-pan ;  dredge  it  lightly  with 
pepper ;  add  a  half-teaspoon  ful  of  salt  to  a  half-cup  of 
boiling  water,  and  pour  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Place 
in  a  quick  oven  for  ten  minutes ;  baste  with  butter  and 
cover  with  a  piece  of  buttered  letter  paper.  Roast  twenty 
minutes  to  every  pound,  basting  every  ten  minutes.  Fifteen 
minutes  before  it  is  done,  brush  it  well  with  melted  butter, 


ME  A  TS  145 

and  dust  it  with  a  half-teaspoonful  of  powdered  sage  and  a 
little  black  pepper.  When  done,  serve  and  make  a  gravy 
the  same  as  for  roast  leg  of  pork. 

Spare-rib  may  be  stuffed  with  a  stuffing  made  of  bread 
or  mashed  potatoes,  the  ribs  cracked  crosswise  the  entire 
length  in  two  places,  the  stuffing  placed  in  the  centre,  the 
two  ends  folded  over,  and  tied.  Roast  as  above.  Serve 
with  tomato  sauce. 

PORK   CHOPS 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  dripping  in  a  frying-pan  to  heat. 
Dust  the  chops  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour ;  fry  in  the  hot 
dripping  until  a  nice  brown,  and  thoroughly  done.  It  will 
take  about  twenty-five  minutes.  Dish.  Pour  nearly  all 
the  fat  from  the  frying-pan  into  your  dripping-pot,  and  to 
that  remaining — which  should  be  about  a  tablespoonful — 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  brown.  Then  add  a 
half-pint  of  boiling  water,  let  it  boil  up  once,  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  pour  over  the  chops. 

Steaks  and  cutlets  may  be  fried  in  the  same  manner. 

SOUSED    PIG'S    FEET 

Clean  the  feet  and  scrape  them  well.  Soak  them  in  cold 
water  two  or  three  hours,  then  wash  and  scrub  well.  Split 
the  feet  and  crack  in  two  or  three  places.  Put  them  into 
a  stewpan  and  just  cover  them  with. cold  water  ;  place  over 
a  moderate  fire  and  simmer  until  tender.  .  Boil  together  for 
one  minute  a  half-pint  of  good  cider  vinegar,  three  blades 
of  mace,  one  dozen  whole  cloves,  and  two  bay  leaves. 
Season  the  feet  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour  into  an  earthen 
basin,  and  add  the  spiced  vinegar  while  hot;  then  stand  in 
a  cold  place.  It  will  be  ready  for  use  the  next  day. 


146  PHILADELPHIA     COOK   BOOK 

PORK    TENDERLOINS 

These  are  the  tenderloins  of  the  pork,  torn  out,  and  corre- 
spond with  the  fillet  of  beef.  Two  tenderloins  will  weigh 
about  a  pound  and  a  quarter.  Being  solid  meat,  without  a 
particle  of  waste,  they  are  more  economical,  even  at  a  higher 
price,  than  chops  or  steaks.  They  are  best  fried  the  same  as 
pork  chops.  Before  frying,  split  them  lengthwise,  making 
four  pieces  of  the  two  tenderloins. 

PORK  AND  BEANS 

To  every  quart  of  the  small  white  soup  beans  allow  one 
pound  of  pickled  pork.  Soak  the  beans  over  night  in  cold 
water.  In  the  morning  wash  them  well  in  a  colander. 
Put  them  on  to  boil  in  cold  water ;  at  the  first  boil,  drain 
this  water  off  and  cover  them  with  fresh  boiling  water. 
Score  the  rind  of  the  pork  and  put  it  in  with  the  beans ; 
simmer  gently  until  you  can  blow  off  the  skin  of  the  beans. 
To  do  this,  take  three  or  four  beans  in  your  hand,  blow 
hard  on  them,  and  if  the  skin  cracks  they  are  done.  When 
done,  every  bean  should  be  perfectly  whole.  Take  out  the 
pork  and  drain.  Put  the  beans  into  a  bean-pot  (an  earthen 
pot  or  pipkin  with  a  cover),  almost  bury  the  pork  in  the  centre 
of  the  beans.  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  one  pint  of  the 
water  in  which  the  beans  were  boiled,  pour  this  into  the  pot, 
sprinkle  with  pepper.  Pour  over  the  top  of  the  beans  one 
large  spoonful  of  molasses,  put  on  the  lid,  then  bake  in  a 
very  moderate  oven  for  six  or  eight  hours.  If  wanted  for 
Sunday  morning  breakfast,  put  them  in  the  oven  on  Satur- 
day night,  and  let  them  bake  all  night.  Serve  with  Boston 
brown  bread.  They  may  be  baked  in  an  ordinary  iron 
baking-pan,  but  in  that  case  they  should  be  covered  with 
another  pan  or  carefully  watched,  and  baked  only  two 
hours.  Bring  them  to  the  table  in  the  pan  in  which  they 
were  baked. 


ME  A  TS  147 

TO  BOIL  A  HAM 

Wash  the  ham  well  in  cold  water.  To  do  this  thoroughly, 
you  should  use  a  small  scrubbing-brush.  Put  it  into  a  large 
boiler  nearly  filled  with  cold  water,  add  a  blade  of  mace, 
six  cloves,  and  a  bay  leaf.  Place  it  over  a  slow  fire,  that  it 
may  heat  gradually.  It  should  not  come  to  boil  for  at  least 
two  hours.  Then  skim  carefully,  and  simmer  gently  fifteen 
minutes  to  every  pound,  from  the  time  it  begins  to  simmer. 
When  done,  allow  it  to  cool  in  the  liquor  in  which  it  was 
boiled.  Then  remove  the  rind  carefully  without  cutting 
the  fat.  Brush  it  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  sprinkle  with 
dried  bread  crumbs ;  place  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  fifteen 
minutes  to  brown.  Serve  it  cold,  garnished  with  parsley. 
Ornament  the  shank  bone  with  a  paper  frill. 

OR/  TO    SERVE    HOT 

Remove  the  skin  as  soon  as  it  is  done,  and,  while  yet  hot, 
brush  it  over  with  beaten  egg,  sprinkle  with  dried  bread 
crumbs,  and  put  in  the  oven  to  brown  and  crisp.  When 
brown,  dish ;  trim  the  shank  bone  with  a  frill  of  paper, 
garnish  the  edge  of  the  dish  with  parsley  and  vegetable 
flowers,  and  serve  with  it  asparagus,  peas,  or  cauliflower. 

HAM  BOILED   IN  CIDER 

Wash  the  ham  as  directed,  cover  it  with  cold  water,  and 
soak  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  wipe  dry.  Put  it  in  a 
porcelain-lined  kettle,  more  than  cover  it  with  cider,  and 
simmer  gently  fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound.  When  done, 
allow  it  to  cool  in  the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled.  When 
cold,  remove  the  skin  carefully,  and  with  a  dry  cloth  sop 
the  fat  to  make  it  perfectly  dry.  Cut  carrots  and  beets, 
that  have  been  boiled  tender,  into  fancy  shapes,  with  vege- 
table cutters  or  a  French  knife,  place  them  tastefully  over 
the  ham.  Garnish  with  squares  of  aspic  jelly,  parsley,  and 
olives.  This  is  delicious. 


148  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

TO  BAKE  A  HAM 

Wash  a  medium-sized  ham  as  directed;  soak  it  for  twenty- 
four  hours  in  cold  water,  changing  the  water  three  or  four 
times.  Now  trim  away  the  rusty  parts  from  underneath,  and 
wipe  it  dry.  Make  a  thick  paste  with  flour  and  water  only ; 
cover  the  flesh  side  of  the  ham  with  this  paste,  place  it  in  a 
baking-pan,  the  skin  side  down,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  twenty-five  minutes  for  every  pound,  basting  with 
sherry  wine  every  ten  minutes,  until  you  have  used  a  half- 
pint  ;  then  baste  with  the  dripping  in  the  pan.  When  done, 
take  off  the  crust  carefully,  and  peel  off  the  skin.  Trim 
the  shank  bone  with  a  frill  of  paper.  With  a  dredging-box 
sprinkle  the  fat  of  the  ham  over  with  raspings  of  rolls  or 
bread,  and  serve  with  champagne  sauce.  Garnish  with 
pickled  beets  cut  into  fancy  shapes,  olives,  and  parsley. 

This  is  just  as  good  as  it  sounds ;  a  little  troublesome, 
but  one  is  well  paid. 

BROILED    HAM 

Have  your  ham  cut  into  slices  about  a  half-inch  thick,  trim 
off  the  rind  and  rusty  edge.  Place  on  a  broiler,  and  broil 
over  or  before  a  clear  fire  for  eight  minutes,  turning  two  or 
three  times.  When  done,  spread  very  lightly  with  butter, 
dust  with  pepper,  and  serve  at  once  on  a  heated  dish. 

FRIED    HAM 

Cut  and  trim  the  ham  as  for  broiling.  Heat  a  frying-pan, 
then  put  in  the  ham  (use  no  fat),  and  fry  over  a  quick  fire 
ten  minutes,  or  until  the  fat  of  the  ham  is  a  nice  brown. 
Dish.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the  fat  remaining 
in  the  pan,  and  mix  until  smooth ;  add  a  half-pint  of  milk, 
stir  constantly  until  it  boils  ;  add  a  dash  of  pepper ;  pour 
it  over  the  ham,  and  serve. 

Saratoga  potatoes  are  a  nice  accompaniment  to  this. 


ME  A  TS  149 

BARBECUED   HAM 
This  is  best  done  in  a  chafing-dish. 

Take  one  slice  of  cold  boiled  or  baked  ham,  put  it  in 
your  chafing-dish,  season  with  pepper  and  a  half-teaspoon- 
ful  of  French  mustard ;  pour  over  it  one  teaspoonful  of 
vinegar ;  heat  quickly  on  one  side,  then  turn  and  heat  the 
other.  Dust  very  lightly  with  powdered  sugar,  add  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  sherry;  boil  up  once,  and  serve  on  a 
heated  dish. 

If  you  have  no  chafing-dish,  this  can  be  carefully  done 
over  the  fire. 

HAM   AND   EGGS 

Fry  the  ham  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  Fried  Ham  ;  when 
done,  place  on  a  heated  dish ;  allow  six  eggs  to  every  slice 
of  ham,  have  them  ready,  and  drop  one  by  one,  into  the 
the  hot  fat.  Stand  over  a  moderate  part  of  the  fire  until 
yolks  are  set.  Cut  the  ham  into  six  nice  pieces,  trim  the 
rough  edges  from  the  eggs,  lift  them  carefully  with  an  egg- 
slice,  and  lay  one  upon  each  piece  of  ham.  Dust  lightly 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  very  hot. 

HAM    CROQUETTES 

1  cup  of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham  ' 

2  cups  of  mashed  potatoes 
Yolks  of  three  eggs 

i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 

i  dash  of  cayenne 

Mix  with  the  hot  mashed  potatoes,  the  butter,  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  and  the  cayenne  ;  beat  until  smooth  ;  turn  out  to 
cool.  Put  the  ham  in  a  small  frying-pan  with  the  remain- 
ing yolk,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  about  one  minute  ;  turn 
it  out  to  cool.  When  cool,  take  a  large  tablespoonful  of 
the  potato  and  form  it  into  a  hollow  in  the  palm  of  your 
hand  ;  put  into  this  hollow  a  large  teaspoonful  of  the  ham, 


150  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

fold  the  potato  over  it,  and  form  it  into  a  ball,  making  a 
potato  ball  with  a  ham  centre.  Dip  these  in  beaten  egg 
and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat. 

HAM    BALLS 

y?,  cup  of  cold  cooked  ham 

1  gill  of  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  dried  bread  crumbs 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
Yolks  of  two  eggs 

i  dash  of  cayenne 
i^  teaspoonful  of  salt 
%  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg 

Chop  the  ham  very  fine.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil,  add  to 
it  the  crumbs,  stir  until  it  thickens ;  add  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs,  salt,  cayenne,  nutmeg,  and  ham;  stir  over  the  fire 
until  thoroughly  hot ;  then  add  the  parsley.  Mix,  and 
turn  out  to  cool.  When  cold,  form  into  balls  about  the 
size  of  a  walnut,  dip  in  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and 
fry  in  boiling  fat. 

These  are  used  as  a  garnish  to  made  dishes. 
This   mixture,  when   turned   out   to  cool,  is   a  ham 
forcemeat. 

HAM    SANDWICHES 

Cut  the  bread  very  thin,  butter  it  lightly,  put  on  it  a  good 
layer  of  finely-chopped  cold  boiled  ham  ;  lay  another  piece 
of  buttered  bread  on  top,  and  press  together  gently.  If 
the  crust  is  at  all  hard,  cut  it  off  before  putting  in  the  ham. 

HAM   AND    EGGS    SANDWICHES 

Mix  the  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  French  mustard  to  a  smooth  paste,  then  add  one  cup 
of  finely-chopped  cold  boiled  ham.  Spread  a  good  layer 
of  this  on  a  slice  of  buttered  bread,  cover  with  another 
slice,  and  press  firmly  together. 


ME  A  TS  151 

Or,  spread  a  layer  on  one  slice  cut  very  thin,  roll  it 
up,  and  serve  in  a  pile  on  a  plate. 

Tongue  sandwiches  may  be  made  by  either  of  the 
preceding  recipes,  using  cold  boiled  tongue  instead  of  ham. 

BOILED  BACON 
Bacon  may  be  boiled  the  same  as  ham. 

FRIED  BACON 

Cut  it  into  very  thin  slices,  put  it  in  a  frying-pan,  and  heat 
gradually  for  about  two  minutes;  then  fry  until  brown. 
Serve  around  a  dish  of  fried  potatoes. 

TO  BOIL  PICKLED  PORK 

This  is  generally  used  boiled  with  sauer-kraut  or  cabbage, 
to  give  it  flavor,  a  piece  weighing  two  pounds  being  suffi- 
cient for  one  quart  of  sauer-kraut,  or  one  head  of  cabbage. 
Boil  two  hours  and  a  half. 

TO  CURE   HAMS  AND  SHOULDERS 

This  should  be  done  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  meat  is  cold. 
100  pounds  of  meat         2  ounces  of  powdered  saltpetre 

4  pounds  of  fine  salt  4  ounces  of  brown  sugar 
Place  the  hams  or  shoulders  on  a  board  or  table  in  the 
cellar,  skin  side  down.  Mix  the  salt,  sugar  and  saltpetre 
well  together ;  rub  the  hams  well  all  over  with  this  mixture, 
and  put  a  little  in  the  hock  end  around  the  bone.  Rub 
until  they  will  take  no  more.  If  there  should  be  any  left, 
rub  them  again  in  about  one  week.  Allow  them  to  remain 
on  the  board  for  sixteen  days.  Then  hang  them  up  to 
smoke,  with  the  hock  end  upwards,  in  a  cool,  dark,  smoke- 
house. Keep  up  a  good  smoke  from  hickory  chips,  smoth- 
ered with  sawdust,  during  the  day,  for  two  or  three  days, 
when  they  will  be  fit  for  use.  One  or  two  small  hams  may 
be  smoked  under  a  barrel. 


152  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

If  you  should  want  to  keep  the  hams  over  until  warm 
weather,  our  experience  with  the  following  method  was 
very  satisfactory. 

Examine  the  hams  carefully,  to  see  that  the  insects 
have  not  already  deposited  their  eggs  on  the  meat.  Dust 
a  little  cayenne  pepper  around  the  bone,  then  wrap  them 
closely  in  brown  paper,  then  with  coarse  muslin  to  fit  the 
ham  exactly ;  stitch  tightly.  Now  give  them  a  coat  of 
whitewash,  and  hang  them  away  in  a  cool,  dark,  dry  place. 

Beef's  tongues  may  be  cured  in  the  same  manner. 

This  recipe  has  been  in  constant  use  in  our  own  family 
for  years,  and  we  pronounce  it  perfect. 


TO  PICKLE  PORK 

To  fifty  pounds  of  pork  allow  two  pounds  and  a  half  of 
brown  sugar,  two  ounces  of  saltpetre,  and  sufficient  salt  to 
make  a  brine  with  about  nine  gallons  of  water ;  this  de- 
pends upon  the  size  of  the  vessel  you  pack  it  in.  Mix  the 
sugar  and  saltpetre  with  the  water,  and  then  gradually  add 
the  salt — which  should  be  Liverpool — until  the  brine  will 
float  an  egg.  Pack  the  pork  down  in  a  half-barrel  or  tub, 
and  pour  the  brine  over  it ;  skim  off  carefully  all  scum  that 
rises.  Be  sure  that  the  pickle  entirely  covers  the  meat ;  if 
it  does  not,  make  more  brine  from  salt  and  water,  and  add 
to  it.  Place  a  board  on  top  of  the  pork,  on  which  put  a 
heavy  stone  to  keep  it  down.  Examine  carefully  from  day 
to  day  for  at  least  one  week,  skimming  off  whatever  may 
float  on  the  top.  In  two  weeks  it  will  be  ready  for  use,  and 
will  keep  one  year.  It  may  be  necessary  to  make  an  en- 
tirely new  pickle  in  about  two  months,  throwing  away  the 
old  one. 

Pork  should  be  pickled  twenty-four  hours  after  killing. 


ME  A  TS  153 

SAUSAGE 

15  pounds  of  lean  meat 

4  tablespoon fuls  of  powdered  sage 

5  pounds  of  fat  meat 
5  ounces  of  salt 

2  ounces  of  pepper 
2  ounces  of  allspice 

Chop  the  meat  very  fine;  this  is  best  done  with  an  "En- 
terprise Meat  Chopper;"  it  takes  but  a  moment,  and  the 
meat  is  not  bruised  or  mashed  as  in  a  grinding  machine. 
Now  mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together.  Have  ready 
the  "casings,"  stuff  with  the  meat,  tie  them  into  lengths, 
and  put  them  away  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  If  you  wish  to 
keep  them  for  a  time,  twist  them  around  in  the  bottom  of 
a  stone  jar  or  a  pan,  cover  with  hot  melted  lard,  and  stand 
away  to  cool.  These  will  keep  one  or  two  months. 

TO  CLEAN    THE    CASINGS    OR    INTESTINES    OF    THE    HOG 

Empty  them,  turn  them  inside  out  and  wash  them  well. 
Soak  them  in  salt  water  for  two  days.  Now  wash  them 
again,  cut  into  convenient  lengths,  and  scrape  them  on  a 
board  with  a  blunt  knife,  first  on  one  side,  then  on  the 
other;  when  you  have  them  well  and  carefully  scraped,  Wash 
again  and  tie  up  one  end  of  each  length,  put  a  quill  in  the 
other  end  and  blow  them  up ;  if  they  are  whole  and  clear 
they  are  clean,  but  if  any  thick  spots  are  seen  they  must 
be  scraped  again.  Now  throw  them  into  clean,  cold,  salt 
water  until  wanted. 

There  is  a  small  machine  called  a  "sausage  stuffcr," 
that  is  most  convenient  if  you  have  large  quantities  of  sau- 
sage to  stuff.  If  you  do  not  use  the  skin,  simply  pack  the 
meat  into  small  stone  or  earthen  pots,  cover  with  melted 
lard ;  when  cold,  protect  the  tops  with  heavy  brown  paper 
tied  down  tightly,  and  stand  away  in  a  cool  place. 


154  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

TO    COOK    IN    THE    SKINS 

Take  the  desired  quantity,  prick  the  skins  here  and  there 
with  a  sharp  fork  (this  prevents  their  bursting);  place  them 
in  a  frying-pan  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  fry  in  their  own 
fat  until  a  nice  brown.  When  done,  dish,  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  to  the  fat  in  the  pan,  mix,  add  one  cup 
of  milk,  stir  until  it  boils,  pour  over  the  sausage,  and  serve 
with  buckwheat  cakes. 

OUT    OF    THE    SKINS 

Make  into  small  cakes,  dip  into  beaten  egg  and  then  into 
bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat. 

Or,  make  into  small  cakes,  fry  slowly  in  their  own  fat. 
Serve  with  cream  gravy  and  buckwheat  cakes  as  above. 

OXFORD  SAUSAGE  (Warne) 

i  pound  of  lean  veal  i  pound  of  young  pork 

i  pound  of  beef's  suet  y2  pound  of  bread  crumbs 

Grated  peel  of  half  a  lemon       i  nutmeg,  grated 
6  sage  leaves,  powdered  i  sprig  of  thyme 

i  sprig  of  savory  i  sprig  of  marjoram 

Free  the  pork  from  skin  and  gristle,  and  chop  it,  the  veal, 
and  suet,  all  separately  and  as  fine  as  possible ;  then  mix 
together,  add  the  grated  bread  crumbs,  lemon  peel,  nutmeg, 
a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  two  of  salt,  and  the  sage, 
thyme,  savory  and  marjoram,  all  chopped  as  fine  as  you  can ; 
mix  all  thoroughly  together,  and  press  it  down  into  a  pre- 
pared skin.  When  you  use  them,  fry  them  a  fine  brown  in 
fresh  butter.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

BOLOGNA    SAUSAGE 

6  pounds  of  lean  beef         3  pounds  of  lean  pork 
i  pound  of  salt  pork  i  pound  of  beef's  suet 

3  ounces  of  salt  i  ounce  of  white  pepper 

i  teaspoonful  of  cayenne    i  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace 
i  large  onion,  finely  chopped 


ME  A  TS  155 

Chop  the  meat  and  suet  separately  very  fine,  then  mix ;  add 
all  the  seasoning,  and  mix  thoroughly.  Fill  into  casings 
(in  cities  you  can  buy  these  already  cleaned  from  your 
butcher),  tie  them  into  lengths,  or  you  may  use  strong  linen 
bags.  Make  a  brine,  from  Liverpool  salt  and  water,  that 
will  bear  an  egg ;  put  the  sausage  into  it,  and  let  stand  two 
weeks,  turning,  skimming,  and  watching  carefully  every 
day.  At  the  end  of  the  first  week  throw  away  the  old,  and 
make  a  new  brine,  then  smoke  for  one  week.  If  you  have 
no  smoke-house,  this  can  be  done  under  a  barrel  by  simply 
building  a  smothered  chip  fire,  hanging  the  sausages  close 
to  the  head  of  the  barrel,  and  standing  the  open  end  over 
the  fire.  When  smoked,  rub  them  over  with  olive  oil,  and 
hang  them  away  in  a  cool,  dry,  dark  place.  If  you  wish 
to  keep  them  for  any  time,  sprinkle  the  outside  with  pepper. 
These  may  be  either  fried  or  boiled,  served  cold  and  cut  in 
thin  slices. 

SUMMER  SAUSAGE 

4  pounds  of  lean  beef  2  pounds  of  lean  veal 

4  pounds  of  lean  pork  i  pound  of  fat  salt  pork 

i  pound  of  beef's  suet         y?  ounce  of  powdered  sage 
i  grated  nutmeg  i  chopped  onion 

YZ  teaspoonful  of  cayenne        i  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper 
YZ  teaspoonful  of  cloves,        ^  teaspoonful  of  allspice, 

ground  ground 

i  teaspoonful  of  sweet  i  teaspoonful  of  thyme 

marjoram  4  tablespoon fuls  of  salt 

Chop  the  meat  and  suet  separately,  and  then  mix  together; 
add  all  the  other  ingredients,  and  mix  well.  Pack  into 
small  strong  muslin  bags,  making  a  sausage  about  the  size 
of  the  large  bolognas,  and  tie  tightly.  Place  them  in  a 
kettle  of  boiling  water  and  simmer  gently  for  one  and  a 
half  hours.  Take  them  out  and  place  them  in  the  sun,  on 
a  clean  towel,  to  dry.  Then  hang  them  in  a  cool  place 


156  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

until  next  day.  Dip  them  in  melted  lard,  covering  them 
all  over,  dust  lightly  with  black  pepper,  and  hang  in  a  cold, 
dark,  dry  place  until  wanted.  These  will  keep  all  summer. 
When  wanted  for  use,  draw  the  bag  off  wrong  side  out,  and 
cut  the  sausage  in  thin  slices. 

BREAKFAST  SAUSAGE 

To  those  who  are  fond  of  a  good  breakfast  sausage,  and  do 
not  care  to  use  that  prepared  by  the  butchers,  I  give  the 
following  recipe  which  is  simple  and  as  easily  made  as  the 
ordinary  Hamburg  steaks: — 

2  pounds  of  lean  pork 

i  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sage  leaves 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  saltspoon  of  black  peppei 

Chop  the  meat  very  fine  (an  "  Enterprise  No.  10  chopper  " 
does  this  quickly  and  neatly),  add  to  it  the  salt,  pepper, 
and  sage ;  mix  thoroughly,  and  form  into  small  cakes.  Put 
an  even  tablespoonful  of  dripping  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  hot  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  the  sausage 
cakes;  fry  until  nicely  browned  on  one  side,  then  turn  and 
brown  the  other.  Serve  plain  or  with  cream  sauce. 

ONION  JUICE  FOR  MEAT  DISHES 

Take  the  outside  skin  from  a  large  onion,  and  then  trim 
off  the  bottom.  Press  the  onion  firmly  against  a  large 
grater  and  quickly  draw  it  up  and  down  allowing  the  juice 
to  drop  from  one  corner  of  the  grater. 


WHAT  TO   SAVE  AND 
HOW  TO  USE  IT 

"  Waste  no/,  want  not " 


Save  all  broken  pieces  and  crusts  of  bread  not  fit  for  toast ; 
put  them  in  a  pan  and  dry  (not  brown)  in  a  cool  oven ; 
better  leave  the  door  open  or  you  may  forget  them.  When 
thoroughly  dry,  roll  them  on  an  old  bread  board,  sift  them 
through  a  rather  coarse  sieve ;  the  crumbs  that  easily  pass 
through  put  in  a  box  or  jar,  the  ones  remaining  in  the  sieve 
turn  out  and  roll  over  again  and  sift  as  before.  These  will 
be  found  very  useful  and  much  better*  than  cracker  crumbs 
for  dipping  croquettes,  oysters,  etc. 

Pieces  of  stale  bread  may  also  be  saved  for  bread 
cakes,  queen  pudding,  or  bread  muffins. 

Muffins  left  from  breakfast  may  be  split  into  halves 
and  toasted  for  luncheon. 

Broken  pieces  of  buns  and  stale  cake  make  delightful 
cabinet  pudding,  and  are  just  the  things  for  "general  satis- 
faction." Here  also  you  may  use  the  small  saucer  of  pre- 
serves left  from  tea. 

There  is  nothing  better  for   panada  than  stale  rusks 

toasted. 

(157) 


158  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

All  cold  mashed  potatoes  should  be  saved  for  cro- 
quettes or  potato  puff.  One  cupful  will  make  six  croquettes. 

Cold  boiled  potatoes  make  excellent  French  fried  or 
Lyonnaise  potatoes. 

All  small  pieces  of  plain  or  puff  paste,  trimmed  from 
your  pies  or  patties,  may  be  used  for  cheese  fingers  or  with 
the  small  piece  of  steak  left  from  breakfast  made  into 
rissoles,  and  you  will  have  an  inexpensive  but  nice  entree 
for  luncheon.  The  unbaked  portion  of  puff  paste  taken 
from  the  centre  of  patties,  dried  and  rolled,  furnish  a  richer 
and  better  covering  for  scallops,  devils,  etc.,  than  the  dried 
bread  crumbs. 

If  you  are  going  to  have  celery  for  dinner,  the  green 
part  of  the  stalks  is  not  pretty  in  the  glass  nor  crisp  to  eat, 
but  is  just  the  thing  for  stews,  or  flavoring  for  soups.  The 
roots,  when  boiled,  make  an  excellent  salad. 

The  turnip  left  from  yesterday  will  be  just  eno\%h  for 
to-day's  soup,  and  will  save  the  time  of  preparing  and 
cooking  another. 

Save  every  bone — whether  beef,  mutton,- veal,  ham, 
poultry  or  game — as  well  as  all  juices  left,  for  the  stock- 
pot.  Into  this  goes  the  long  end  of  the  rib  roast,  which 
would  only  become  tasteless  and  dry  if  put  in  the  oven ; 
also  the  fat  ends  of  your  French  mutton  chops.  This  pot 
is  a  store-house  of  wealth,  not  only  for  ordinary  soup,  or 
puree,  but  to  use  instead  of  water  for  sauces  and  gravies. 

The  fat  which  you  skim  from  the  surface  of  this  stock, 
every  piece  of  suet  from  chops  and  steaks;  in  fact,  all 
kinds  of  fat,  should  be  saved,  tried  out,  clarified,  and  then 
strained  into  your  dripping-pot.  If  you  do  this  religiously, 
even  in  a  large  family,  you  will  have  to  buy  very  little  or 
no  lard  for  general  frying.  Doughnuts  and  fritters  are 
much  better  fried  in  dripping  than  in  lard,  as  they  do  not 
absorb  so  much  of  it. 


WHAT  TO  SAVE  159 

The  coarse,  tough  and  unprepossessing  tops  of  the 
sirloin  steaks,  and  the  tough  ends  of  the  rumps,  which 
cannot  possibly  be  eaten  when  broiled,  make  most  excel- 
lent, tender  Hamburg  steaks.  If  you  are  fond  of 
these,  and  have  much  chopping  to  do,  an  "Enterprise" 
chopper  soon  pays  for  itself,  as  it  saves  time  and  chops 
uncooked  meats. 

Pressed  Meat  No.  i  (see  Index)  is  made  from  the  soup 
meat ;  remember,  it  is  rather  tasteless  unless  nicely  sea- 
soned. 

Cecils  are  appetizing  for  breakfast  or  luncheon,  and, 
unless  wantonly  suggested  by  you,  it  will  never  enter  into 
the  masculine  intellect  to  suspect  them  of  being  the  rem- 
nants of  yesterday's  roast. 

Cold  mutton  is  better  made  over  into  pilaff,  hash  on 
toast  with  tomato  sauce,  and  scallop,  than  when  first  served. 

Beef  a  la  mode  makes  the  very  best  of  ragouts,  and 
the  pieces  of  game  left  from  dinner  are  just  the  thing  for  a 
salmi,  and  there  also  is  a  chance  to  use  some  of  the  olives 
that  were  opened  yesterday  and  will  mould  in  a  day  or  two 
if  not  used. 

Cold  roast  and  boiled  chicken  or  turkey  may  be  made 
into  croquettes,  a  la  Bechamel,  or  a  1'Italienne;  and,  if 
nicely  served,  would  never  suggest  warmed-over  meats. 

A  cup  of  cold,  boiled  rice  added  to  griddle-cakes, 
muffins  or  waffles,  makes  them  lighter  and  more  easily 
digested. 

The  water  in  which  fresh  tong'ue,  mutton  or  chicken 
is  boiled,  may  be  used  for  soup  or  added  to  the  stock-pot. 

After  you  have  used  all  the  ham  that  will  cut  nicely 
from  the  bone,  and  after  chipping  the  remaining  tender 
meat  for  frizzled  ham,  boil  the  bone  with  cabbage.  Being 
free  from  fat,  it  flavors  the  cabbage  nicely  without  making 
it  greasy. 


160  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Whites  of  eggs,  saved  one  or  two  at  a  time  and  kept 
in  a  cold  place,  may  be  used  for  angels'  food,  corn-starch 
cake,  or  apple  snow ;  the  yolks  for  salad  dressing,  gravies 
or  soups. 

Cold  boiled,  baked  or  broiled  fish  may  be  used  for  cro- 
quettes a  la  creme  or  salad. 

In  fact,  waste  nothing,  as  many  things  may  be  re- 
dressed in  a  different  way,  and  thus  improve  the  appearance 
of  your  table  without  increasing  the  expense. 


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164  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


POULTRY  AND  GAME 


POULTRY 

In  some  markets  poultry  is  bought  ready  dressed  from  the 
poulterer ;  in  others,  picked  but  not  drawn  ;  in  others, 
again,  alive.  In  case  you  should ^rneet  with  the  latter,  the 
best  and  quickest  way  of  killing  is  by  cutting  the  throat  or 
tongue.  Some  cut  the  head  entirely  off.  In  either  way 
they  should  be  hung  up  by  the  feet  without  delay,  as  they 
then  die  much  sooner,  and  bleed  -more  freely.  Begin  at 
once  to  pick  them,  taking  a  few  feathers  at  a  time,  and 
giving  them  a  quick  jerk  toward  the  tail.  If  you  pull 
backward,  it  is  apt  to  tear  the  skin.  Do  not  scald  them, 
as  young  chickens  are  completely  spoiled  by  being  thus 
blanched.  It  does  not  injure  older  ones  so  much  if  they 
are  to  be  used  immediately.  After  you  have  picked  them, 
singe,  by  taking  hold  of  the  head  and  feet  and  passing  them 
over  the  gas  or  blazing  paper,  backward  and  forward,  turn- 
ing them  on  both  sides,  being  careful  not  to  burn  the  skin. 

TO    CLEAN 

Cut  off  the  head  and  feet  at  the  first  joint,  split  the  skin  on 
the  back  of  the  neck,  then  detach  the  skin  from  the  neck 
and  draw  it  down  over  the  breast,  and  take  out  the  crop 
without  breaking  it.  Now,  cut  the  neck  off  close  to  the 


166  PHILADELPHIA    COOK    tiOOK 

body.  The  skin  is  then  left  to  cover  the  place  where  the 
neck  was  cut  off.  Turn  the  chicken  around,  make  a  vent 
under  the  rump  large  enough  to  draw  the  chicken  easily. 
Take  out  all  the  internal  organs — the  heart,  liver,  gizzard, 
lungs,  entrails,  and  eggs,  if  there  are  any,  being  very  care- 
ful not  to  break  the  gall-bag  or  entrails,  as  the  contents  of 
either  would  render  the  fowl  uneatable  unless  thoroughly 
washed.  And  I  will  say,  right  here,  never  wash  or  soak 
poultry  or  game  unless  you  have  broken  something ;  then 
do  it  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  wipe  dry  immediately.  I 
cannot  speak  too  strongly  against  this  abominable  practice. 
It  may  be,  however,  thoroughly  washed  before  it  is  drawn, 
and  if  this  operation  be  done  as  directed,  will  not  require 
another  bath.  I  was  often  puzzled  to  know  why  our  so- 
called  good  cook  books  should  recommend,  "soak  to  draw 
out  the  blood  "  (and,  of  course,  the  flavor  and  nourish- 
ment at  the  same  time),  "and  throw  this  water  away," 
and  perhaps  on  the  next  page  will  be  found  a  recipe  for 
beef  tea,  which  will  read  :  "  Soak  in  cold  water  to  draw 
out  the  nourishment,  throw  away  the  meat  and  save  the 
water."  This  rule  applies  equally  well  to  all  meats.  I 
wonder  no  longer  after  seeing  the  usual  way  of  drawing 
poultry.  In  going  from  one  house  to  another,  giving 
private  lessons  to  ladies  in  their  own  kitchens,  I  have 
more  than  once  been  shocked  and  almost  sickened  at 
the  way  in  which  this  operation  was  performed.  They 
first  made  a  gash  in  the  fowl  large  enough  to  insert 
the  whole  hand,  at  the  same  time  cutting  the  intestines 
and — dragging  them  one  piece  at  a  time — had  the  whole 
chicken,  their  hand  and  arm  covered  with  filth.  Washing 
can  never  restore  to  a  chicken  thus  drawn,  its  flavor.  I 
would  recommend  it  being  thrown  away  at  once,  saving 
your  digestive  organs  the  trouble  of  digesting  that  from 
which  you  do  not  receive  full  nourishment. 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  167 

After  drawing  properly,  wipe  inside  and  out  with  a 
damp  towel,  remove  the  oil-sack  from  the  top  of  the  rump, 
and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

TO    CLEAN    THE    GIBLETS 

Cut  the  liver  away  from  the  gall-bag,  being  careful  not  to 
break  it.  Cut  the  heart  open,  and  remove  the  clotted 
blood.  Cut  the  outer  coat  of  the  gizzard,  and  draw  it  off, 
leaving  the  inner  lining,  containing  the  sand,  unbroken. 
Wash  thoroughly,  and  they  are  ready  to  use.  t 

The  giblets  consist  of  the  liver,  heart,  gizzard,  and 
neck. 

Turkeys,  geese,  ducks,  pigeons,  pheasants,  and  all  birds, 
are  cleaned  in  the  same  manner. 

TO    SELECT   A   CHICKEN 

Buy  a  chicken  with  firm  flesh,  yellow  skin  and  legs.  If 
young,  the  cock  will  have  small  spurs,  and  both  cock  and 
hen  will  have  soft,  smooth  legs  and  tender  skin  ;  the  lower 
part  of  the  breast  bone  will  be  cartilage,  soft  and  pliable. 
If  old,  the  opposites. 

Poultry  full  grown  have  the  best  flavor,  and  are  good 
for  roasting,  fricassees,  and  stewing.  Older  ones  make  good 
soup  or  may  be  served  boiled.  Spring  chickens  should  only 
be  broiled  or  fried.  Be  sure  that  they  are  fresh,  and  free 
from  any  unpleasant  odor.  They  should  be  drawn  as  soon 
as  possible  after  they  are  killed,  and  hung  away  in  a  cool, 
dry  place  for  at  least  twenty-four  hours  before  cooking.  If 
cooked  as  soon  as  killed,  they  are  hard  and  tough.  If 
frozen,  they  should  be  placed  in  a  warm  room  to  thaw 
several  hours  before  they  are  wanted. 

ROAST    CHICKEN    WITH    GIBLET    SAUCE 
Procure  a  nice  chicken  one  year  old.     Singe  and  clean  as 
directed.  Make  a  stuffing  from  one  large  cupful  of  stale  bread 


168  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

crumbs,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  a  tablespoon ful 
of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Fill  the  space 
from  which  you  took  the  crop,  sew  up  the  slit  in  the  skin,  fold 
it  over  and  fasten  it  on  the  back  of  the  chicken  with  a  small 
skewer;  put  the  remainder  of  the  stuffing  in  the  body  of  the 
chicken  ;  do  not  pack  it  or  the  dressing  will  be  heavy.  Sew 
up  the  vent,  place  the  chicken  on  a  table  with  the  breast  up 
and  the  rump  towards  you  ;  push  the  legs  up  under  the  skin, 
cross  them  and  fasten  with  a  small  skewer  to  the  bone  of 
the  rump.  Turn  the  wings  back,  run  another  small  skewer 
through  them  and  the  body  of  the  chicken.  Now  tie  the  legs 
together,  wrap  the  twine  around  the  end  of  the  skewer  and 
bring  it  up  the  back,  wrap  it  around  the  ends  of  the  wing 
skewer,  and  tie  tightly.  Put  two  slices  of  bacon  in  the 
bottom  of  a  baking-pan,  lay  the  chicken  on  them,  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  fifteen  minutes  to  every 
pound.  Baste  every  ten  minutes,  first  with  the  water,  and 
afterwards  with  its  own  dripping.  Fifteen  minutes  before 
the  chicken  is  done,  baste  the  breast  of  the  chicken  with 
melted  butter,  dredge  thickly  with  flour,  and  put  back  in 
the  oven  to  brown.  When  done,  remove  first  the  strings 
then  the  skewers,  place  on  a  hot  dish  and  garnish  with  par- 
sley. 

TO    MAKE    THE    SAUCE 

Put  the  giblets  in  a  saucepan  and  cover  with  cold  water, 
place  on  a  moderate  fire  and  let  simmer  as  long  as  the 
chicken  roasts.  Then  cut  them  fine.  Add  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  flour  to  the  pan  in  which  the  chicken  was  roasted, 
stir  over  the  fire  until  a  nice  brown,  then  add  a  half-pint 
of  the  liquor  in  which  the  giblets  were  boiled,  stir  con- 
stantly until  it  boils;  now  add  the  chopped  giblets,  season 
to  taste,  and  serve  in  a  boat. 


POULTRY  AND  GAME  169 

CHICKEN  LARDED  AND  ROASTED 
Draw  and  clean  as  directed.  Tie  the  legs  and  wings  the 
same  as  for  Roast  Chicken.  Lard  the  breast  with  small 
lardoons  about  an  inch  apart,  making  two  rows  on  each 
side.  Place  the  chicken  in  a  baking-pan,  put  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  and  a  half-teaspoon ful  of  salt  in  the  pan,  place 
in  a  quick  oven,  and  baste  every  ten  minutes.  Roast  fifteen 
minutes  to  every  pound  if  the  chicken  is  young.  Serve 
with  brown  sauce. 

CHICKEN  STUFFED  WITH  CHESTNUTS 
Draw  and  clean  the  chicken  as  directed.  Roast  one  quart 
of  large  chestnuts ;  when  done,  remove  the  shells  and 
mash.  Put  one-half  the  chestnuts  in  a  bowl,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of 
pepper,  mix  and  fill  the  chicken  the  same  as  with  bread 
crumbs.  Lard  the  breast  thickly  with  salt  pork ;  place 
the  chicken  in  a  baking-pan,  add  a  half-cup  of  water  and 
a  half-teaspoon  ful  of  salt ;  roast  in  a  quick  oven  fifteen 
minutes  to  each  pound,  basting  every  ten  minutes.  When 
done,  dish,  remove  the  strings  and  skewers,  garnish  with 
parsley.  Put  the  remaining  chestnuts  in  the  pan  in  which 
the  chicken  was  roasted,  mix  well,  add  a  half-pint  of  stock, 
stir  until  it  boils,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve  in 
a  boat. 

Chickens  may  also  be  stuffed  with  oyster  or  potato 
stuffing. 

BOILED    CHICKEN 

For  boiling,  select  a  chicken  over  a  year  old,  middling  fat, 
and  with  dark  yellow  skin.  Clean,  stuff  and  truss  the  same 
as  for  roasting.  Dredge  it  thickly  with  flour,  put  it  in  a 
pot  with  just  water  enough  to  cover,  add  a  quarter-cup 
of  washed  rice.  Cover  the  pot  closely,  and  put  it  over  a 


170  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

moderate  fire  to  simmer  until  the  chicken  is  very  tender — 
about  two  hours  if  the  chicken  is  old.  When  done,  remove 
the  strings  and  skewers,  serve  with  egg  or  oyster  sauce. 

The  water  in  which  the  chicken  was  boiled  may  be  used 
for  soup. 

TO    BRAISE  A  CHICKEN 

i  young  chicken  ^  small  carrot 

i  onion  i  pint  of  stock 

i  sprig  of  parsley  4  cloves 

i  bay  leaf  12  mushrooms 

i  gill  of  sherry,  if  you  use  wine 

Draw  and  singe  the  chicken  as  directed.  Truss  it  without 
filling.  Place  the  carrot  and  onion  sliced  in  the  bottom  of 
a  baking  or  braising-pan,  add  the  cloves  and  parsley,  and 
place  the  chicken  on  top;  add  the  stock,  a  teaspoon ful  of 
salt  and  a  little  black  pepper;  cover  the  pan,  and  place  in  a 
quick  oven  for  one  and  a  half  hours,- basting  every  fifteen 
minutes.  Then  dish  the  fowl.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter in  a  frying-pan,  let  it  melt  and  brown ;  then  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix,  add  the  liquor  from  the  pan  in 
which  the  chicken  was  braised,  and  then  the  mushrooms, 
chopped  fine.  Stir  continually  until  it  boils.  Take  it 
from  the  fire,  season  to  taste,  add  the  wine  if  used,  and 
pour  it  around  the  chicken. 

SMOTHERED  CHICKEN 

Singe  a  young  chicken  and  split  it  down  the  back.  Take 
out  the  intestines.  Wipe  it  with  a  damp  towel.  Lay  the 
the  chicken,  with  inside  downwards,  in  a  baking-pan, 
breaking  the  breast-bone  to  make  it  lie  flat.  Spread  the 
breast  with  a  quarter-pound  of  butter,  dredge  with  pepper. 
Put  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  half-cup  of  water  in  the 
bottom  of  the  baking-pan,  place  it  in  a  hot  oven,  cover 
with  another  pan,  let  it  bake  for  half  an  hour,  basting  every 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  171 

ten  minutes.  Now  remove  the  upper  pan,  turn  the  chicken, 
baste  it  well  on  the  inside,  cover  again,  and  bake  for  another 
half-hour.  When  done,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish ;  put  the  pan 
in  which  the  chicken  was  cooked  on  top  of  the  fire  to 
brown,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  until  smooth 
and  brown,  then  add  a  half-pint  of  milk,  and  stir  constantly 
until  it  boils.  Taste  to  see  if  properly  seasoned ;  if  not, 
add  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  in  a  boat. 

A  BROWN  FRICASSEE  OF  CHICKEN 

Draw  and  singe  the  chicken  as  directed.  Cut  it  into  eleven 
pieces.  First  take  off  the  legs  with  second  joints,  then 
separate  the  second  joints  from  the  leg,  making  four  pieces; 
take  off  the  wings.  Now  cut  through  the  ribs  on  either 
side,  unjoint  the  back  and  breast,  cut  the  breast  in  half 
lengthwise,  making  two  nice  pieces ;  unjoint  the  back,  and 
make  two  pieces  of  lower  back.  Place  a  quarter-pound  of 
salt  pork  or  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  ;  when  a  nice 
brown,  put  in  the  chicken.  Stir  until  every  piece  is  nicely 
browned,  then  add  two  tablespoon fuls  of  flour;  stir  again, 
add  one  pint  of  boiling  water  or  stock,  stir  until  it  boils  ; 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cover,  and  let  simmer  gently 
until  tender,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  and  a 
little  black  pepper.  Dish.  Put  the  neck-piece,  heart, 
liver,  gizzard,  and  the  back  pieces  in  the  centre  of  the 
dish ;  put  the  two  pieces  of  breast  on  top,  the  second  joints 
on  one  side  of  the  plate,  the  legs  crossed  on  the  other,  and 
a  wing  at  each  end  of  the  plate.  Pour  the  sauce  over, 
sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

A  WHITE  FRICASSEE  OF  CHICKEN 

Clean  and  cut  the  same  as  for  a  Brown  Fricassee.  Clean 
the  giblets.  Now  put  the  whole  in  a  stewing- pan,  partly 


172  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

cover  with  boiling  water,  set  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  sim- 
mer until  tender  (about  an  hour  and  a  quarter  if  the  chicken 
is  young).  When  the  chicken  is  done,  there  should  be  no 
water  left;  if  there  is,  remove  the  lid,  and  allow  it  to  evapo- 
rate quickly.  Dish  the  chicken  same  as  before.  Put  one 
large  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan;  and  when 
melted,  add  two  tablespoon fuls  of  flour;  mix  well,  but  do 
not  brown.  Now  add  one  pint  of  milk,  turn  the  whole  into 
the  stewpan  in  which  the  chicken  was  boiled,  and  stir  con- 
tinually until  it  boils ;  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  take  it 
from  the  fire,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  pour  it  over 
the  chicken,  sprinkle  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  and  serve  with  rice  croquettes.  Do  not  boil  after 
adding  the  eggs,  or  the  sauce  will  curdle. 

STEWED  CHICKEN 

Clean  and  cut  the  chicken  as  for  Brown  Fricassee.  Put  it 
in  a  stewpan,  partly  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  simmer 
gently  until  tender  (a  young  chicken  about  an  hour  and  a 
quarter,  an  old  one  two  hours  to  two  and  a  half).  When 
about  half  done,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  When  the 
chicken  is  done,  dish  it  as  directed  for  a  fricassee.  Moisten 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  with  a  little  cold  water,  stir  it 
into  the  liquor  in  which  the  chicken  was  boiled ;  then  stir 
continually  until  it  boils,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and 
a  half-cup  of  good  cream.  Take  it  from  the  fire,  add  the 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  pour  it  over  the  chicken,  and  serve. 

CHICKEN  au  SUPREME 

This  is  a  white  fricassee  made  from  the  breasts  of  chickens 
only.  Take  a  pair  of  chickens,  clean  as  directed  ;  detach 
the  flesh  from  each  side  of  the  breast  bone  carefully  in  two 
long  pieces,  called  fillets.  In  two  chickens  you  will  have 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  173 

four  pieces.  Cut  the  remainder  of  the  chicken  as  you 
would  for  a  fricassee,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  and  nearly  cover 
with  cold  water;  add  one  small  onion,  sliced,  one  bay  leaf, 
four  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace.  Cover,  and  bring  slowly 
to  a  boil.  Now  place  the  fillets  carefully  over  the  top  of  this, 
and  simmer  gently  until  tender  (about  one  hour),  sprinkling 
them  with  salt,  when  half  done.  When  done,  dish  the 
fillets  tastefully,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  while  you  make 
the  sauce. 

THE    SAUCE 

Put  one  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to 
melt,  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Mix  until 
smooth;  add  a  half-pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  chickens 
were  cooked,  stir  continually  until  it  boils,  then  add  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  and  take  from  the  fire;  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  chopped  parsley.  Pour  over  the  fillets,  and  serve. 

This  may  be  served  plain,  with  truffles,  mushrooms,  or 
a  border  of  rice. 

The  dark  meat  may  be  used  for  croquettes,  cecils, 
Italian  chicken,  or  chicken  terrapin. 


CHICKEN  a  la  MARENGO 

Clean  and  cut  up  a  young  chicken  as  for  fricassee.  Put  two 
tablespoon fuls  of  olive  oil  in  a  frying- pan  and  place  it  over 
a  good  fire;  when  hot,  put  in  the  chicken,  and  turn  and 
cook  until  every  piece  is  nicely  browned,  then  add  a  sprig 
of  parsley,  a  bay  leaf,  one  slice  of  onion,  a  half-teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  a  quarter-teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  and  five 
mushrooms  chopped  fine.  Stand  over  a  more  moderate 
heat,  and  cook  slowly  until  tender  (about  three  quarters  of 
an  hour).  Dish,  and  serve  with  cream  sauce. 


17 ±  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

PILAFF  OF  CHICKEN 

i  four-pound  chicken 
y<2.  cup  of  rice 

i  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

Clean  and  cut  the  chicken  the  same  as  for  a  fricassee.  Put 
it  in  a  stewpan,  half  cover  it  with  boiling  water,  and  set  it 
on  a  moderate  fire  to  simmer.  Now  wash  the  rice,  add  it 
to  the  chicken,  also  the  salt,  and  let  all  simmer  until  the 
chicken  is  tender.  Make  a  tomato  sauce.  Dish  the  chicken 
and  rice  together,  and  pour  over  it  the  tomato  sauce. 

This  dish  is  very  nice  made  from  cold  pieces  of  chicken 
or  mutton. 

You  may  also  use  macaroni  instead  of  rice. 

BRUNSWICK  STEW     (Mrs.  Cobb,  of  Richmond,  Va.) 

i  chicken  (four  pounds)  i  quart  of  tomatoes 

4  medium-sized  potatoes  i  pint  of  very  tender  Lima 

i  pint  of  grated  corn  beans 

*/z  pound  of  lean  ham  i  large  onion 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  ^  pound  of  butter 

parsley  3  quarts  of  boiling  water 

Salt,  cayenne  and  black  pepper  to  taste 

Draw,  singe,  and  cut  up  the  chicken  as  for  a  fricassee.  Put 
it  in  a  large  saucepan  with  the  boiling  water,  the  onion 
sliced  and  ham  cut  into  dice.  Cover  the  saucepan  and 
simmer  gently  for  one  and  a  half  hours.  Then  add  the 
salt,  the  tomatoes  peeled  and  sliced,  the  potatoes  pared  and 
cut  into  quarters,  the  corn,  beans,  parsley,  cayenne  and  black 
pepper.  Cover  again  and  simmer  one  hour  longer ;  then 
add  the  butter  cut  into  bits  and  rolled  in  flour**  stir  five 
minutes  over  the  fire,  and  serve. 

Great  care  must  be  taken  or  the  stew  will  scorch. 
Keep  it  over  a  very  moderate  fire,  and  stir  frequently  from 
the  bottom  of  the  saucepan. 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  175 

This  stew,  if  carefully  prepared,  is  most  delicious.  It 
may  be  made  in  winter  from  the  canned  vegetables  ;  but,  of 
course,  is  not  so  good. 

CURRY  OF  CHICKEN 

Clean  and  cut  the  chicken  the  same  as  for  a  fricassee.  Put 
two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan.  Cut  one  small 
onion  into  slices,  add  it,  with  the  chicken,  to  the  butter,  and 
fry  until  a  golden  brown ;  then  skim  the  chicken  out  of 
the  pan,  carefully  put  it  in  a  stewing-pan  and 'partly  cover 
with  boiling  water,  add  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
simmer  gently  until  the  chicken  is  tender  (about  one  hour). 
When  done,  add  to  it  a  teaspoon ful  of  sugar  and  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon.  Mix  one  even  tablespoonful  of  curry 
powder  and  one  of  flour,  with  a  little  cold  water,  4o  a 
smooth  paste,  and  add  it  to  the  chicken.  Stir  continually 
until  it  boils.  Serve  with  boiled  rice  heaped  around  it ; 
or,  a  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder  may  be  added  to  a  white 
fricassee  or  a  plain  stew. 

FRIED    CHICKEN 

Clean  and  cut  the  chicken  the  same  as  for  a  fricassee.  Dredge 
each  piece  thickly  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour.  Put  three 
tablespoon fuls  of  oil  or  lard  in  a  frying-pan  ;  and  when 
very  hot,  put  in  the  chicken,  and  fry  slowly  until  it  is  done. 
If  young  (as  it  should  be),  it  will  fry  in  three-quarters  of 
an  hour.  Watch  it  carefully  that  it  may  not  burn.  When 
done,  arrange  the  pieces  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  all  the  fat, 
but  about  one  tablespoonful,  from  the  frying-pan;  then 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  and  add  a  half-pint  of 
milk  or  cream,  stir,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour 
over  the  chicken. 


176  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

SPRING  CHICKENS     (TO    BROIL) 

Singe,  take  off  the  head  and  feet,  and  split  the  chicken 
down  the  back ;  take  out  the  internals,  wipe  the  chicken, 
inside  and  out ;  with  a  mallet  break  the  breast -bone.  Dust 
the  chicken  on  the  inside  with  salt  and  pepper ;  place  it  on  a 
broiler  with  inside  downward  or  next  to  the  fire.  Broil 
over  a  slow  fire  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  keeping  a  plate 
turned  over  it  all  the  time.  Just  before  it  is  done,  turn  it 
and  brown  the  skin  side.  When  done,  place  on  a  heated 
dish,  baste  with  melted  butter,  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper. 

Spring  chickens  may  also  be  fried  or  smothered. 

CHICKEN  a  la  TARTARE 

Take  a  spring  chicken,  split  it  down  the  back  as  directed. 
Placfe  it  in  a  baking-pan,  spread  it  thickly  with  butter,  dust 
with  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  and  the  same  of  chopped  onion.  Cover 
the  pan,  place  in  a  quick  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Then  take  it  from  the  pan,  brush  it  over  with  beaten 
egg,  strew  with  bread  crumbs,  and  broil  over  a  gentle  fire 
until  a  nice  brown.  Serve  with  sauce  Tartare. 

CHICKEN  CHOPS 

FOR    THE    FORCEMEAT 

White  meat  of  one  chicken       i  gill  of  milk 
i  gill  of  bread  crumbs  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 

Yolk  of  one  egg  parsley 

Salt  and  pepper 

FOR   THE    CHOPS 

Dark  meat  of  one  chicken         i  onion 
i  bay  leaf  y2  box  of  gelatine 

Yolk  of  one  egg  2  large   tablespoonfuls  of 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  flour 

Salt  and  cayenne 


PO  UL  TR  V  AND  GAME  177 

Put  the  dark  meat  in  a  saucepan,  just  cover  it  with  boiling 
water,  add  the  onion  and  bay  leaf,  and  let  it  simmer  slowly 
until  the  chicken  is  tender  (about  one  hour).  Cover  the 
gelatine  with  a  half-cup  of  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak  while 
the  chicken  is  stewing.  As  soon  as  the  chicken  is  tender, 
take  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  chop  it  very  fine.  Put 
the  butter  into  a  frying-pan  ;  and,  when  melted,  add  the 
flour,  mix  until  smooth,  and  then  add  a  half-pint  of  the 
liquor  in  which  the  chicken  was  boiled;  stir  constantly 
until  it  boils  and  thickens,  then  add  the  gelatine,  the  yolk 
of  the  egg,  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste ;  mix  well,  and  turn 
into  a  shallow  pan,  having  the  mixture  about  a  half-inch 
thick.  Stand  away  on  the  ice  to  harden. 

Now  prepare  the  forcemeat.  Chop  the  uncooked  white 
meat  of  the  chicken  very  fine.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil, 
add  to  it  the  crumbs,  stir  until  it  thickens ;  add  to  it  the 
chopped  chicken,  parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash 
of  cayenne.  Mix  all  well  together,  take  from  the  fire,  add 
the  yolk  of  the  egg,  and  turn  out  to  cool. 

When  the  chop  mixture  is  cold,  cut  it  into  chop-shaped 
pieces  with  a  knife  ;  cut  as  closely  as  possible,  wasting  none 
of  the  mixture.  Lift  each  chop  carefully  from  the  pan, 
and  cover  every  part  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  forcemeat. 
Stand  them  on  the  ice  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  dip  them 
in  beaten  egg,  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  boil- 
ing oil  or  fat.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 

CHICKEN    CUTLETS 

Draw  and  singe  a  young  chicken  as  directed.  Cut  the  skin 
and  draw  it  entirely  off  of  the  breast.  Take  off  the  wings 
at  the  second  or  middle  joint,  not  the  one  nearest  the  body. 
Now  run  a  sharp  knife  along  the  breast-bone,  removing  one- 
half  the  breast  in  one  solid  piece  with  the  first  joint  of  the 


178  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

wing,  thus  making  a  chop  or  cutlet  of  one-half  the  breast 
with  the  first  joint  of  the  wing  bone  as  a  handle.  Remove 
the  other  side  in  the  same  way.  One  chicken  will  only  make 
two  cutlets.  The  dark  meat  may  be  used  for  croquettes  or 
other  dishes.  Put  the  dark  meat  in  a  stewpan  and  nearly 
cover  with  boiling  water;  add  a  small  onion,  a  bay  leaf,  four 
cloves  and  a  sprig  of  parsley ;  place  the  cutlets  in  good  shape 
on  top  of  this,  cover,  and  let  simmer  gently  until  tender — 
this  can  be  told  by  piercing  with  a  fork.  When  done,  take 
out  the  cutlets,  dust  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  baste 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter.  Stand  the  dark  meat 
away  until  wanted.  Let  the  cutlets  stand  until  cold,  or 
until  you  are  ready  to  use  them.  Then  dip  them  first  in 
egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat  until 
a  golden  brown.  Trim  the  bones  with  a  frill  of  paper, 
arrange  the  cutlets  around  the  outside  of  a  meat  dish,  fill 
the  centre  with  cream  sauce,  and  serve. 

CHICKEN    CROQUETTES 

i  four-pound  chicken       i  pair  of  sweetbreads 
i  small  onion  4  whole  cloves 

i  bay  leaf  i  sprig  of  parsley 

Clean  and  singe  the  chicken  as  directed.  Put  it  on  to  cook 
in  boiling  water ;  add  the  onion,  bay  leaf,  cloves  and  par- 
sley. Cover  and  simmer  gently  until  the  meat  is  very  ten- 
der. While  this  is  cooking,  prepare  the  sweetbreads.  Trim 
all  the  fat  and  pipes  off,  wash  well  in  cold  water,  and  soak 
for  fifteen  minutes;  drain,  cover  with  boiling  water,  add 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  stand  over  a  very  moderate 
fire  for  twenty  minutes.  Do  not  boil,  as  it  makes  them  very 
tough.  When  done,  throw  them  into  cold  water  for  a  few 
minutes,  remove  the  fibrous  skin  from  the  outside,  and  chop 
the  sweetbreads  fine  with  a  silver  knife.  A  steel  knife 
spoils  the  flavor  on  account  of  the  acid  they  contain.  As 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  179 

soon  as  the  chicken  is  done,  remove  the  skin  and  bones,  put 
them  back  in  the  kettle  to  simmer  longer,  add  salt,  and 
the  liquor  may  be  used  for  soup.  Chop  the  meat  very  fine, 
then  mix  it  with  the  sweetbreads,  and  to  every  pint  of  this 

meat  allow 

YZ  pint  of  milk  or  cream 

1  large  tablespoon  ml  of  butter 

2  large  tablespoon fuls  of  flour 

i  large  tablespoon ful  of  chopped  parsley 

i  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt 
%  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg,  grated 

Cayenne  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Rub  the  butter 
and  flour  to  a  smooth  paste,  then  stir  it  into  the  boiling 
milk,  and  stir  continually  until  it  is  very  thick ;  take  it 
from  the  fire,  add  the  meat,  and  beat  until  thoroughly 
mixed;  add  the  seasonings,  tasting  to  see  if  enough  salt 
and  pepper;  then  turn  out  on  a  large  plate  to  cool.  When 
cold  and  hard,  form  into  cone-shaped  croquettes.  (There 
are  moulds  that  come  for  this  purpose.)  Dip  first  in  egg 
and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  oil  or  fat. 
Serve  at  once  with  a  small  sprig  of  parsley  in  the  top  of 
each  croquette. 

To  warm  over,  place  them  on  soft  paper  and  stand 
them  in  the  oven  for  a  few  moments.  Cold  roast  chicken 
or  turkey  may  be  made  into  croquettes;  you  may  also  use 
calf's  brains  instead  of  sweetbreads,  prepared  in  the  same 
manner. 

Where  the  family  Js  small,  the  white  meat  of  the 
chicken  may  be  used  for  salad,  and  the  dark  for  croquettes. 
With  a  pair  of  sweetbreads,  a  four-pound  chicken  will  make 
a  quart  of  nice  soup,  nine  croquettes,  and  one  and  a  half 
pints  of  chicken  salad ;  using  all  the  meat,  you  make  thir- 
teen croquettes. 


180  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

CHICKEN    CECILS 

Chicken  Cecils  may  be  made  the  same  as  Meat  Cecils,  using 
chicken  instead  of  beef  or  mutton. 

CHICKEN    TERRAPIN 

Boil  the  chicken  the  same  as  for  Chicken  Croquettes,  and 
cut  it  into  dice.  To  every  quart  of  the  cut  meat  allow 

3  hard-boiled  eggs  ^  pound  of  butter 

^  teaspoonful  of  ground     fa  cup  of  cream 

mace  y%  teaspoonful  of  ground 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  cloves 

i  gill  of  sherry  Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Put  the  chicken  in  a  saucepan.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour 
together,  add  it  to  the  chicken,  then  add  the  seasoning  and 
cream.  Stand  over  a  very  moderate  fire  until  thoroughly 
heated.  Chop  the  whites  of  the  eggs  very,  very  fine,  then 
add  them  to  the  chicken.  Mash  the  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
with  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  to  a  smooth 
paste,  then  add  to  the  chicken  and  stir  the  whole  over  the 
fire  until  it  comes  to  the  boiling  point ;  add  the  wine,  and 
serve  immediately. 

More  or  less  wine  may  be  added  according  to  taste. 

Calf's    liver,  after  parboiling  for  fifteen  minutes,  is 
delicious  dressed  in  this  same  manner. 

BOUDINS    a  la  REINE 

i  pint  of  cold  cooked  chicken,  chopped  fine 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  dried  bread  crumbs 
YZ  cup  of  stock  or  boiling  water 

2  eggs 

i^  nutmeg,  grated 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  melt,  add  to  it  the  bread 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  181 

crumbs  and  stock  ;  stir  until  it  boils.  Take  from  the  fire, 
and  add  the  chick e'n,  parsley,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper, 
and  then  the, eggs  slightly  beaten ;  mix  thoroughly.  Now 
fill  tea  or  custard  cups  two-thirds  full  with  this  mixture, 
stand  in  a  baking-pan  half  filled  with  boiling  water,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  When  done, 
turn  them  out  carefully  on  a  heated  dish,  and  pour  around 
them  cecil  sauce. 

Remains  of  cold  roast  or  boiled  turkey  may  be  used 
in  the  same  way. 

CHICKEN    a  1'  ITALIENNE 

Cold  roast  or  boiled  chicken  may  be  used  for  this  dish. 
If  a  chicken  is  cooked  specially,  boil  as  directed  for 
chicken  croquettes.  Cut  the  meat  into  dice,  and  to  every 
pint  of  meat  allow 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
12  drops  of  onion  juice 

3  hard-boiled  eggs 

i  gill  of  cream  or  milk 

i  gill  of  stock 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  melt,  add  to  it  the  flour, 
and  stir  until  thoroughly  mixed ;  then  add  the  stock  and 
cream ;  stir  again  until  it  boils.  Take  from  the  fire,  add 
the  chicken  and  seasoning.  Mix  carefully,  and  stand  it 
over  boiling  water  until  thoroughly  heated.  Take  from 
the  fire,  and  dish.  Press  the  yolks  of  the  hard-boiled  eggs 
through  the  "  Hennis  Vegetable  Press,"  or  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  sprinkle  them  lightly  over  the  top,  and  it  is  ready 
to  serve. 

This  may  also  be   served  in  individual  dishes  or  in 
paper  cases. 


182  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

.       CHICKEN    a  la  BECHAMEL 

I  pint  of  cold  chicken,        2  tablespoonfuls  of  white 

cut  into  dice  stock 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  6  mushrooms,  chopped  fine 
i  tablespoonful  of  flour  i  sweetbread 
y<2,  pint  of  cream  or  milk  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Clean  and  parboil  the  sweetbread  for  twenty  minutes  as 
directed.  Pick  it  to  pieces,  rejecting  all  the  fibrous  skin, 
and  mix  with  the  chicken.  Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan 
to  melt,  being  careful  not  to  brown  it ;  when  melted,  add 
the  flour  and  mix  well,  then  add  the  cream  or  milk  and 
stock;  stir  continually  until  it  boils ;  add  the  chicken,  sweet- 
bread, and  mushrooms,  salt  and  pepper  ;  stir  carefully  until 
thoroughly  heated,  and  serve  either  in  individual  dishes  or 
paper  cases. 

DEVILED    CHICKEN 

Chop  very  fine  any  pieces  of  cold  cooked  chicken  that 
may  be  left.     To  every  pint  of  this  meat  allow 
YZ  pint  of  cream  3  hard-boiled  eggs 

i  tablespooonful  of  butter         2  tablespoonfuls  of  bread 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  crumbs 

parsley  %  nutmeg,  grated 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  melt,  then  add  the  bread 
crumbs,  cream,  chicken,  and  seasoning ;  stir  over  the  fire 
until  it  boils ;  then  add  the  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  very 
fine.  Fill  paper  cases  or  individual  dishes  with  this  mix- 
ture, sprinkle  lightly  with  bread  crumbs,  and  brown  in  a 
quick  oven. 

CHAUD    FROID   OF  CHICKEN 

i  cold  roast  chicken  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour       y2  pint  of  milk  or  cream 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Strip  the  skin  carefully  from  the  chicken,  and  cut  the  meat 
into  nice  pieces,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long  and  an  inch 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  183 

wide.  Now  put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  melt,  add  to 
it  the  flour ;  mix  until  smooth ;  add  the  milk  or  cream, 
stir  continually  until  it  boils  and  thickens ;  add  salt  and 
pepper.  Into  this  sauce  dip  each  piece  of  chicken,  and 
place  the  pieces  on  a  dish,  one  not  touching  the  other. 
Stand  away  until  very  cold.  When  cold,  arrange  the  pieces 
nicely  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  them  with  a  little  parsley  chopped 
very  fine,  garnish  with  aspic  jelly  and  parsley,  and  serve. 

BLANQUETTE    OF    CHICKEN 

A  blanquette  may  be  made  from  any  cold  cooked  chicken 
or  veal,  cut  into  pieces  about  half  an  inch  square.  To 
every  pint  of  these  pieces  allow 

i  gill  of  stock  or  water         i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
i  gill  of  milk  or,  better,        i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
cream  Yolks  of  two  eggs 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  melt  (do  not  brown) ;  then 
add  the  flour ;  mix  until  smooth  ;  add  the  stock,  cream, 
salt,  and  pepper ;  stir  continually  until  it  boils ;  then  add 
the  meat,  and  stand  over  a  very  moderate  fire  until  hot. 
Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  yolks  well  beaten,  and  serve  at 
once  in  a  small  heated  dish. 

Do  not  boil  after  adding  the  yolks,  or  it  will  curdle. 

CHICKEN    LIVERS  en  BROCHETTE 

Scald  the  livers  and  soak  them  in  the  boiling  water  for  five 
minutes.  Cut  breakfast  bacon  into  pieces  the  size  of  the 
livers.  Drain  and  wipe  the  livers ;  then  put  one  piece  on 
a  steel  or  silver  skewer,  then  a  piece  of  bacon,  and  so  on, 
until  the  skewer  is  nearly  filled — about  three  of  each  on  a 
six-inch  skewer.  Now  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
baste  with  melted  butter.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire  for  five 
minutes.  Serve  on  the  skewers,  with  a  little  melted  butter 
poured  over  them. 


184  PHILADELPHIA     COOK  BOOK 

BAKED   CHICKEN    PIE 

i  four  or  five-pound  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

chicken  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 

4  medium-sized  potatoes  parsley 

y2  pound  of  ham  Salt  and  pepper 

Draw,  singe,  and  cut  the  chicken  the  same  as  for  a  fricassee; 
put  it  into  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  sim- 
mer for  an  hour  or  so — until  the  meat  is  tender  when 
pierced  with  a  fork.  Now  proceed  in  exactly  the  same 
manner  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  Veal  Pie.  Serve  in  the 
baking-dish. 

Rabbit  and  squirrel  baked  pie  may  be  made  in  the 
same  way,  using  two  young  rabbits  or  four  squirrels  instead 
of  one  chicken. 

CHICKEN   POT-PIE 

i  large  year-old  chicken  i  pound  of  lean  ham 

The  rule  for  plain  suet  paste     4  medium-sized  potatoes 

Salt  and  pepper 

Make  the  paste  first  and  stand  it  in  a  cool  place  while  you 
draw  and  singe  the  chicken.  Cut  it  up  as  for  a  fricassee; 
pare  and  cut  the  potatoes  into  dice,  cut  the  ham  the  same 
size.  Now  roll  out  half  the  paste  into  a  thin  sheet.  Butter 
the  sides  and  bottom  of  a  rounding  pot,  line  it  with  the 
sheet  of  paste,  and  trim  the  top ;  roll  out  these  trimmings 
into  a  sheet,  and  cut  them  into  squares.  Now  put  a  layer 
of  chicken  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  then  a  layer  of  po- 
tatoes, then  a  sprinkling  of  ham,  salt,  pepper,  and  the 
squares  of  paste,  then  the  remainder  of  the  chicken,  and 
then  the  potatoes,  etc.  Roll  out  the  remainder  of  the 
paste,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  it,  and  lay  it  on  top 
of  the  last  layer,  which  should  be  potatoes.  Pour  in 
through  this  hole  about  one  quart  of  boiling  water,  place 
it  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  simmer  continually  for  one  and 
a  half  hours.  Half  an  hour  before  the  pie  is  done,  add  one 


POULTRY  A'D    GAME  185 

tablespoonful  of  butter,  cut  into  bits,  through  the  hole  in 
top  crust.  When  done,  turn  it  out  on  a  large  dish  so  that 
the  bottom  crust  will  be  uppermost. 

Rabbit  or  squirrel  pot-pie  may  be  made  in  the  same 
manner,  using  two  rabbits  or  three  squirrels. 

CHICKEN   SOUFFLE 

i  pint  of  cold  chopped  i  pint  of  milk 

chicken  ^  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter        2  dashes  of  pepper 
i  tablespoon  ful  of  chopped      i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
parsley  3  eggs 

YI  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs 

Put  the  butter  into  a  small  saucepan,  and,  when  melted, 
add  the  flour,  and  mix  until  smooth  ;  then  add  the  milk, 
stir  continually  until  it  boils ;  add  the  crumbs ;  cook  one 
minute.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  salt,  -pepper,  parsley, 
chicken,  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well  beaten.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  into  the  mix- 
ture carefully.  Pour  into  a  greased  baking-dish,  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve  immediately, 
or  it  will  fall 

CASSEROLE  OF   CHICKEN 

2  cups  of  rice  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

3  quarts  of  cold  water       y2  cup  of  cream 
i  tablespoonful  of  salt         Pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  rice  in  cold  water,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  the 
cold  water.  Boil  slowly  for  one  hour,  then  drain  in  a  col- 
ander, mash,  and  add  the  butter,  cream,  salt,  and  pepper. 
Brush  a  casserole  or  raised  pie  mould  with  butter  and  then 
with  cold  milk.  Press  the  rice  into  this,  and  stand  away  to 
cool ;  when  cool,  take  out  the  centre  of  the  rice,  leaving  a 
wall  and  bottom  about  one  inch  thick.  Fill  this  cavity 
with  a  nice  white  fricassee  of  chicken.  Use  the  rice  taken 


186  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

out  for  an  upper  covering.  Be  careful  not  to  press  out  the 
sauce  when  covering.  Brush  the  top  over  with  beaten  egg, 
and  put  in  a  quick  oven  to  brown.  When  brown,  place  on 
a  dish,  draw  the  little  rods  that  fasten  the  mould  together, 
and  remove  the  mould,  leaving  the  bottom  under  the  cas- 
serole on  the  dish.  It  will  not  show,  and  it  spoils  the  cas- 
serole to  move  it.  If  your  mould  has  no  bottom,  it  must 
be  browned  on  the  dish  you  serve  it  on.  Pour  stewed 
mushrooms  around,  and  serve. 

MARBLED   MEAT 

1  good-sized  chicken  (five  pounds) 
6  sheep's  tongues 

2  hard-boiled  eggs 

1  pound  of  ham  or  bacon 
^  teaspoonful  of  mace 

6  mushrooms 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley 
^  teaspoonful  of  cloves 

i  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice 

Salt  and  pepper 

Clean  the  chicken,  and  take  all  the  meat  from  the  bones. 
Cover  the  sheep's  tongues  with  cold  water,  and  boil  gently 
for  two  hours;  then  skin  and  cut  them  into  thin  slices. 
Chop  the  ham  or  bacon  ;  cut  the  hard-boiled  eggs  into 
slices ;  grease  a  mould  (with  a  cover),  put  in  a  layer  of 
chicken,  then  a  layer  of  sheep's  tongues,  then  a  layer  of 
ham,  then  a  layer  of  hard-boiled  eggs  sliced,  then  a  sprink- 
ling of  the  mushrooms  chopped  fine,  parsley,  cloves,  mace, 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  few  drops  of  the  onion  juice,  then  another 
layer  of  chicken,  and  continue  these  alternations  until  all 
is  used.  Press  all  well  together,  cover  the  mould,  stand  it 
in  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  two  hours.  Do  not 
have  the  water  deep  enough  to  cover  the  mould.  When 
done,  remove  the  lid  and  stand  away  to  cool.  Then  turn 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  187 

it  out  of  the  mould,  and  garnish  with  aspic  jelly  or  parsley 
and  slices  of  lemon. 

The  bones  of  the  chicken  may  be  used  for  making 
soup. 

CHICKEN    IN    JELLY 

i  four-pound  chicken     i  small  onion 
i  bay  leaf  3  whole  cloves 

i  blade  of  mace  %  box  of  gelatine 

3  hard-boiled  eggs  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Clean  the  chicken  and  cut  it  up  as  for  a  fricassee.  Put  it 
on  to  cook  with  the  onion,  bay  leaf,  cloves,  mace  and  pep- 
per. Simmer  slowly  until  the  chicken  is  tender  (about  one 
and  one-half  hours  if  the  chicken  is  young).  When  done, 
take  it  out,  cut  it  from  the  bones  in  nice  pieces,  rejecting  all 
the  skin.  Now  put  the  bones  and  skin  back  into  the  kettle 
and  simmer  one  hour  longer.  Cover  the  gelatine  with  a 
little  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak  an  hour.  Put  the  chicken 
away  until  the  next  day.  Add  the  gelatine  to  the  liquor, 
stir  over  the  fire  about  one  minute,  take  from  the  fire  and 
strain.  If  not  clear,  clarify  the  same  as  Bouillon.  Taste 
to  see  if  properly  seasoned — if  not,  add  more  salt  and 
pepper — and  stand  it  away  also.  There  should  be  about 
one  and  a  half  pints  of  liquor  when  done.  The  next  day,  take 
all  the  fat  from  the  top  of  the  jelly,  stand  the  jelly  on  the 
fire  to  melt,  then  pour  into  a  square  mould  about  a  half- 
pint,  and  stand  it  on  the  ice  to  harden.  When  hard,  put 
a  layer  of  the  chicken  on  top  of  the  jelly,  then  slices  of 
the  hard-boiled  eggs,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper, 
then  more  chicken,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used.  Now  pour 
over  this  the  remainder  of  the  jelly,  which  should  be  cold, 
but  still  liquid,  and  should  just  cover  the  chicken.  Stand 
away  in  a  cold  place  over  night.  When  wanted,  turn  care- 
fully from  the  mould,  and  garnish  with  parsley  or  light- 
colored  celery  tops. 


188  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

BONED  CHICKEN 

i  pair  of  year-old  chickens     i  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs 
y%  pound  of  sausage  meat         i  teaspoon ful  of  salt 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped     i  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice 

parsley  %  teaspoonful  of  pepper 

Singe  the  chickens,  cut  off  the  heads  and  feet.  The  one 
that  has  the  smoothest  and  best  skin  should  be  boned  care- 
fully for  the  outside ;  the  other  one  may  be  used  for  the 
inside. 

TO  BONE 

Place  the  chicken  on  the  table  with  the  breast  down ; 
take  a  very  small,  sharp-pointed  knife  and  cut  the  skin 
from  the  neck  to  the  rump,  down  the  backbone.  Now 
carefully  and  slowly  run  the  knife  between  the  bones 
and  flesh  toward  one  of  the  wings.  When  you  come  to 
the  thin  bone,  and  the  joint  nearest  the  body,  unjoint, 
and  then  separate  it  from  the  body ;  now  run  the  knife 
between  the  flesh  and  the  bone  of  the  wing,  and 
remove  each  bone  as  you  come  to  the  joint ;  the  small 
bones  in  the  tips  of  the  wings  cannot  be  taken  out,  so  they 
may  be  either  left  on  or  cut  off — the  first  is  best.  Now 
run  the  knife  close  to  the  bones  until  you  come  to  the  third 
joint  of  the  legs ;  by  twisting  and  cutting  this  joint,  it 
will  easily  open,  then  separate  it  from  the  body  ;  take  the 
bones  out  of  the  leg  in  the  same  manner  as  the  wing.  The 
lower  leg-bone  can  be  taken  out  easily  by  turning  it  wrong 
side  out  and  stripping  the  bone  down.  Now  run  the  knife 
between  the  bones  and  flesh,  on  the  same  side,  until  you 
come  to  the  breast-bone.  Then  turn  the  chicken  and  bone 
the  other  side  the  same.  Now  pull  out  the  crop;  then 
take  the  neck  in  one  hand  and  the  flesh  and  skin  in  the 
other,  and  gently  pull  the  flesh,  and  you  will  partly  uncover 
the  upper  part  of  the  breast-bone  ;  now  take  your  finger 
and  press  the  flesh  from  the  breast -bone  till  you  come  to 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  189 

the  edge,  then  lay  the  chicken  on  its  back ;  let  some  one 
take  hold  of  it  by  the  neck.  Now  take  hold  of  the  flesh 
and  skin  of  the  neck  with  your  left  hand,  and  pulling  it 
gently  down,  with  the  knife  cut  the  skin  carefully  from  the 
breast-bone,  the  carcass  coming  out  whole.  All  along  this 
bone  there  is  no  flesh  between  the  skin  and  bone,  so  it 
requires  great  care  not  to  cut  the  skin,  it  should  be  per- 
fectly whole  without  one  break  when  the  chicken  is  finished. 
After  removing  the  carcass,  cut  off  the  rump,  leaving  it 
attached  to  the  flesh  and  skin ;  see  that  it  is  clean,  wipe 
the  skin  with  a  damp  towel,  and  spread  the  chicken  out 
flesh  side  up  ;  dredge  it  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  up  the 
other  chicken,  take  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  chop  it  fine. 
Mix  it  with  the  sausage  meat,  add  the  crumbs,  salt,  pepper, 
parsley,  and  onion  juice,  and  mix  again.  Take  a  small 
portion  of  this  forcemeat  and  press  carefully  into  the  wings 
and  legs  where  the  bones  have  been  taken  out ;  form  the 
remainder  of  it  into  a  roll  the  shape  of  the  carcass,  and 
place  it  in  the  boned  chicken  ;  draw  the  skin  together  and 
sew  it  up  from  the  neck  to  rump.  Now  turn  it  over  on  its 
back,  tuck  the  wings  back,  and  draw  the  legs  down  to  the 
side  of  the  body,  press  it  with  your  hands  until  it  is  the 
shape  of  the  chicken  before  you  boned  it.  It  is  impossible 
to  give  it  the  exact  shape  ;  it  will  look  more  like  a  duck 
than  a  chicken.  Now  wrap  it  up  tightly  in  a  towel,  tie 
with  twine,  running  it  all  around  so  that  it  cannot  open  in 
any  place.  Now  place  the  bones  from  both  chickens  and 
the  skin  from  the  one  you  chopped  in  a  kettle,  pour  in  cold 
water  enough  to  cover  them,  and  a  little  more.  Add  a 
knuckle  of  veal,  one  bay  leaf,  one  onion,  four  cloves,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  twelve  pepper-corns,  a  small-sized  carrot, 
sliced.  Stand  it  over  a  moderate  fire ;  at  the  first  boil, 
skim  it,  add  salt ;  lay  the  boned  chicken  on  top  of  these, 
cover  the  kettle,  and  simmer  gently  for  four  hours.  When 


190  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

done,  take  it  from  the  kettle,  remove  the  towel,  and  stand 
away  to  cool.  Simmer  the  bones  two  hours  longer,  then 
strain  and  stand  the  liquor  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  take 
the  fat  from  the  top.  There  should  be  two  quarts  of  this 
jelly.  If  a  knuckle  of  veal  is  not  at  hand,  cover  one  box 
of  gelatine  with  one  pint  of  cold  water  and  soak  one  hour. 
After  you  have  taken  the  fat  from  the  jelly,  put  into  a 
saucepan  to  melt ;  when  melted  and  hot,  add  the  soaked 
gelatine  and  stir  until  dissolved.  Be  sure  that  there  are 
two  quarts  of  the  jelly ;  if  not,  add  hot  water  to  make  the 
quantity.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pour  a 
layer  about  half  an  inch  deep  in  an  oblong  basin  or  mould, 
stand  away  to  harden,  then  lay  the  chicken  on  top  and  pour 
over  and  around  it  the  remainder  of  the  jelly,  which  must 
be  cold  but  liquid,  and  should  just  cover  the  chicken  ;  now 
put  it  in  a  very  cold  place  over  night.  When  wanted,  wipe 
the  mould  with  a  warm  cloth,  and  turn  carefully  out ;  gar- 
nish with  parsley  and  sauce  Tartare. 

Or,  when  the  chicken  is  done,  remove  the  towel,  place 
the  chicken  in  a  baking-pan,  baste  it  with  water,  dust  it 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven  about 
thirty  minutes.  Stand  it  away  to  cool.  Make  the  jelly 
as  directed,  season  and  put  away  to  harden  in  a  shallow 
pan.  When  hard,  remove  the  fat,  and  chop  half  of  the 
jelly  on  a  towel  with  a  silver  knife.  Place  the  chicken 
on  a  flat  dish,  and  put  the  chopped  jelly  all  over  it  about 
a  half-inch  thick;  cut  the  remaining  jelly  into  squares 
(about  an  inch)  or  fancy  shapes,  and  place  them  around 
the  dish,  forming  a  border  of  jelly.  In  summer  this  is 
the  better  way,  as  the  jelly  melts  so  quickly.  It  may  also 
be  served  without  jelly,  garnished  with  parsley  or  white 
celery  and  sauce  Tartare.  The  liquor  in  which  it  was 
cooked  may  then  be  used  for  soup.  A  boned  chicken 
may  be  kept  four  or  five  days. 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  191 

PRESSED   CHICKEN 
An  old  chicken  may  be  used  for  this. 

Draw  and  singe  as  directed.  Wipe  well  with  a  damp 
towel,  put  in  a  kettle  and  cover  with  cold  water.  Pfece 
over  a  moderate  fire,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  meat  falls 
from  the  bones  ;  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  when  about 
half  done.  It  will  take  about  three  or  four  hours  to  cook, 
if  the  fowl  is  old.  When  done,  take  the  meat  from  the 
bones  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  not  over  a  half-inch 
square.  Put  the  bones  and  skin  back  into  the  kettle,  and 
boil  until  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  one  and  a  half  pints,  then 
strain,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  this 
with  the  chicken,  pour  the  whole  into  a  square  tin  mould 
and  stand  in  a  very  cold  place  over  night.  A  light  weight 
may  be  placed  on  top  to  press  it  together,  a  flat-iron  on  a 
small  board  is  best.  When  hard  and  cold,  turn  out  of  the 
mould,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

This  is  nice  for  picnics  or  a  tea  dish  in  summer. 

CAPONS 

A  caponed  chicken  is  drawn,  cleaned,  and  singed  in  the 
same  way  as  a  common  chicken.  It  may  be  roasted  or 
boiled  according  to  the  recipes  given  for  chicken,  or  stuffed 
with  truffles  and  roasted,  according  to  the  recipe  given  for 
Turkey  Stuffed  with  Truffles.  A  capon  thus  prepared  makes 
a  very  recherche  dish. 

TURKEY 

Young  hen  turkeys  are  best  for  roasting.  The  legs  should 
be  black,  the  skin  white,  the  breast  broad  and  fat ;  and  the 
shorter  the  neck  the  better.  An  old  hen  has  reddish  rough 
legs.  A  gobbler,  if  young,  should  have  black  legs  and 
small  spurs,  and  is  always  much  larger  than  the  hen  of  the 


192  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

same  age.  The  flesh  of  an  old  gobbler  is  strong  and  tough, 
and  it  can  be  told  by  its  reddish  legs  and  long  spurs. 

ROAST   TURKEY  WITH    GIBLET    SAUCE 

Clean  and  prepare  exactly  the  same  as  Roast  Chicken,  using 
double  the  amount  of  stuffing^  and  roasting  fifteen  minutes 
to  every  pound. 

ROAST  TURKEY  STUFFED  WITH  CHESTNUTS 
Follow  the  recipe  given  for  Chicken  Stuffed  with  Chestnuts 
using  double  the  amount  of  chestnuts. 

ROAST    TURKEY  STUFFED  WITH  TRUFFLES 

For  this  procure  a  fresh  young  hen  turkey.  Draw  and  singe 
according  to  directions  given  for  chicken.  Cut  one  pound 
of  ham  into  dice,  stand  over  a  moderate  fire  in  a  saucepan ; 
when  hot,  add  two  pounds  of  truffles,  quarter  of  a  nutmeg 
grated,  a  quarter-teaspoon ful  of  white  pepper  and  a  bay 
leaf;  stir  over  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  stand  away 
to  cool.  When  cold,  put  two  tablespoon fuls  of  the  mixture 
into  the  space  from  which  the  craw  was  taken,  put  the 
remainder  into  the  body  of  the  turkey,  and  sew  it  up. 
Truss,  and  hang  it  up  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  about  five 
days  in  winter;  in  warmer  weather,  two  days.  Roast  as 
directed  in  preceding  recipe,  and  serve  with  truffle  sauce. 

A  turkey  is  delicious  stuffed  with  mushrooms  in  the 
same  way. 

COLD    ROAST    TURKEY 

The  remains  of  cold  roast  or  boiled  turkey  may  be  used  in 
croquettes,  bodines,  blanquettes,  terrapin,  or  any  of  the 
numerous  dishes  given  for  cold  chicken. 

BOILED   TURKEY         No.  i 

Draw  and  singe  the  turkey  as  directed  for  chicken.  Truss, 
but  do  not  stuff.  Put  into  a  kettle,  large  enough  to  hold 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  193 

the  turkey,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  tablespoon ful 
chopped  parsley,  and,  if  you  like,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
onion  j  place  it  over  a  good  fire,  and,  when  the  butter  is 
hot,  add  water  enough  to  cover  the  turkey.  Take  a  cloth 
of  suitable  size,  flour  it  well,  and  wrap  around  the  turkey, 
then  tie  with  twine.  Put  it  in  the  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
and  simmer  gently  fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound.  When 
done,  remove  the  cloth  and  serve  with  oyster,  egg,  or  bread 
sauce. 

BOILED    TURKEY         No.  2 

2  cups  of  bread  crumbs  25  oysters 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter  i  large  tablespoonful  of 
Y*  small  onion  parsley 

2  bay  leaves  4  cloves 

i  quart  of  stock  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Draw  the  turkey;  wipe  it,  inside  and  out,  with  a  damp 
towel. 

TO   MAKE   THE    FILLING 

Drain  the  oysters,  add  them  to  the  bread  crumbs,  then  add 
the  butter,  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  dash  of 
pepper ;  mix  all  together. 

Fill  and  truss  the  same  as  in  Roast  Chicken.  Now 
place  the  turkey  in  a  baking-pan,  spread  the  breast  with 
butter,  and  put  in  a  very  quick  oven  to  brown,  about  a  half- 
hour.  Then  take  it  from  the  oven,  put  it  into  a  soup  kettle 
with  the  onion,  bay  leaves,  cloves  and  stock.  Cover,  and 
let  simmer  slowly  for  two  hours,  or  until  the  turkey  is  tender. 
Serve  with  the  following  or  oyster  sauce: — 

THE    SAUCE 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

YZ  pint  of  the  liquor  in  Yolk  of  one  egg 

which  it  was  boiled  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  melt,  add  to  it  the  flour, 


194  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

mix  well;  add  the  liquor,  and  stir  constantly  until  it  boils; 
add  salt  and  pepper,  take  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  beaten 
yolk. 

If  you  use  wine,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry  may  be 
added  to  the  stock  when  you  put  the  turkey  on  to  simmer. 

Serve  cranberry  sauce  with  it. 

BONED    TURKEY 

To  bone,  proceed  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  for  Boned 
Chicken.  When  boned,  fill  with  the  following: — 

i  pair  of  chickens  weighing  about  eight  pounds 

i  cold  boiled  tongue 

i  pint  of  mushrooms  or  truffles  - 

1  pound  of  sausage  meat 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley 

Chop  the  uncooked  meat  of  the  chickens  very  fine.  Cut  the 
tongue  into  very  thin  slices.  Cut  the  mushrooms  also  into 
slices ;  spread  the  turkey  out  on  the  table,  with  the  inside 
up  and  the  rump  towards  you;  dust  it  well  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Now  put  on  a  layer  of  sausage  meat,  then  a  layer 
of  mushrooms,  then  a  layer  of  chopped  chicken,  then  a 
layer  of  tongue,  then  a  sprinkling  of  parsley  and  so  on 
until  you  have  used  nearly  all  the  materials  given.  Mix  the 
remaining  materials,  which  should  be  just  enough  to  fill  the 
wings  and  legs.  Bring  the  two  sides  of  the  skin  together, 
giving  the  turkey  a  round  form,  sew  it  up,  turn  it  over, 
tuck  back  the  wings  and  fasten  them  with  a  small  skewer; 
bring  the  legs  down  by  the  side  of  the  turkey  and  fasten 
them  in  the  same  way.  Now  finish  in  precisely  the  same 
manner  as  a  boned  chicken.  (See  directions  given  for 
Boned  Chicken,  and  read  the  whole  recipe  very  carefully 
before  beginning.) 

In  selecting  poultry  to  bone,  choose  those  at  least  a 
year  and  a  half  old,  with  a  smooth,  perfect  skin,  and  dry 
picked. 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  195 

GALANTINE    OF    TURKEY 

Select  a  nice  fat  hen  turkey  weighing  about  twelve  pounds. 
Singe,  but  do  not  draw.  Bone  as  'directed.  (See  Boned 
Chicken).  Turn  the  legs  and  wings  inside  out,  and  draw 
them  inside  of  the  turkey.  Now  bone  a  chicken,  turn  the 
legs  and  wings  in  the  same  way,  dredge  both  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Place  the  chicken  inside  the  turkey,  with  the 
rump  of  the  chicken  toward  the  neck  of  the  turkey  so  that 
the  white  meat  will  not  all  be  in  the  same  place.  Mix  one 
pound  of  sausage  meat  or  lean  ham  with  one  cup  of  bread 
crumbs  and  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Form  into  a  roll  the 
shape  of  the  turkey  carcass,  place  it  inside  the  chicken, 
draw  the  skin  of  the  turkey  together,  and  sew  it  up.  Then 
press  and  roll  with  the  hands  until  the  galantine  is  an  even 
roll.  Tie  at  the  extremities,  and  also  across  in  two  places. 
Now  wrap  tightly  in  a  cloth,  and  tie  as  before.  Put  into  a 
soup-kettle  the  bones  from  the  turkey  and  chicken,  one 
onion,  one  carrot  sliced,  six  whole  cloves,  two  bay  leaves, 
a  large  sprig  of  parsley  and  three  quarts  of  cold  water, 
stand  it  over  a  moderate  fire  and  bring  slowly  to  a  boil; 
skim,  put  in  the  galantine,  and  simmer  gently  for  four 
hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  take  the  kettle  from  the 
fire  and  let  the  galantine  cool  in  the  liquor,  then  take  it  out 
and  place  on  a  flat  dish ;  put  a  meat  board  on  top  of  it, 
and  two  flat  irons  on  top  of  the  board,  and  stand  away  over 
night.  In  the  morning  remove  the  cloth  carefully,  brush 
the  galantine  over  with  a  beaten  egg,  dust  with  bread 
crumbs  and  parsley  chopped  very  fine,  place  in  a  very  hot 
oven  to  brown,  then  stand  away  until  very  cold.  This  can 
be  garnished  with  aspic  jelly,  or  a  jelly  made  from  the 
bones,  same  as  Boned  Chicken.  It  is  to  be  sliced  thin 
when  eaten,  helping  a  small  portion  of  the  jelly  with  each 
slice. 


196  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

A    CAPONED    TURKEY 

A  caponed  turkey  may  be  prepared  as  Caponed  Chicken, 
or  roasted  according  to  the  preceding  recipes.  It  is  more 
tender,  larger,  and  decidedly  better  flavored  than  other 
turkeys,  and  consequently  commands  very  high  prices. 

DUCKS 

Ducks,  to  be  good,  must  be  young  and  fat,  the  lower  part 
of  the  legs  and  the  webbing  of  the  feet  soft,  the  under  bill, 
if  the  duck  is  young,  will  break  easily.  The  breast  should 
be  plump  and  fat. 

ROAST     DUCKS 

Draw  and  singe  the  same  as  chicken.     Wipe  inside  and  out 
with  a  damp  towel.     Make  a  stuffing  from 
cup  of  bread  crumbs 
t^poonful  of  powdered  sage 
boiled  onion,  mashed  fine 
large  tablespoonful  of  butter 
teaspoonful  of  salt 
%  teaspoonful  of  pepper 

Mix  the  whole  well,  and  fill  the  space  from  which  the  crop 
was  taken  and  the  body  of  the  duck,  sew  and  truss  them 
the  same  as  a  chicken.  Place  in  a  baking-pan,  cover  the 
breast  with  a  thin  slice  of  bacon,  add  a  half-cup  of  water 
and  a  half- teaspoonful  of  salt  to  the  pan,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven  (if  a  full-grown  duck)  one  and  a  quarter  hours, 
basting  every  ten  minutes.  Serve  with  a  sauce  made  from 
the  giblets  same  as  Roast  Chicken.  If  ducklings,  roast 
only  forty-five  minutes. 

Green  peas  and  apple  sauce  should  be  served  with  roast 
duck. 

Ducks  may  also  be  stuffed  with  potato  stuffing.     (See 
recipe  for  Potato  Stuffing.) 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  197 

ROAST    DUCKLINGS 

Draw,  singe  and  clean  the  same  as  a  chicken.  Tuck  the 
wings  back,  and  fasten  the  legs  down  to  the  side  of  the 
body  with  a  small  skewer,  or  they  may  be  sewed  with  a 
trussing-needle  and  twine.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  walnut  in  each  duck,  place  them  in  a  baking-pan,  add 
a  half-cup  of  water  and  a  half-teaspoon ful  of  salt  to  the 
pan,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  forty-five  minutes,  basting 
every  ten  minutes.  When  done,  dish,  serve  with  giblet 
sauce,  same  as  Roast  Chicken. 

Green  peas,  cranberry  sauce  or  currant  jelly  should 
accompany  this  dish. 

RAGOUT     OF     DUCK 

1  pair  of  ducks  2  tablespoon fu Is  of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  i  tablespoonful  of  onion 
i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  juice 

catsup  i  teaspoon  ful  of  lemon 

i  bay  leaf  juice 

i  pint  of  stock  or  boiling          ^  gill  of  sherry,  if  you  use 

water  wine 

4  or  5  mushrooms  may  be  added,  if  liked 
Draw,  clean,  and  singe  the  ducks  the  same  as  chicken. 
Place  them  in  a  baking-pan,  put  a  thin  slice  of  bacon  over 
the  breast,  add  a  half-cup  of  water  to  the  pan,  and  bake  in 
a  quick  oven  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  if  tame  ducks;  if 
wild  ones,  bake  only  thirty  minutes.  Now  take  from  the 
fire  and  carve  them,  making  eight  pieces  of  each  duck — the 
wings,  legs  and  second  joints  together,  two  pieces  of  the 
breast,  and  two  of  the  back.  Now  put  the  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  and  stir  until  a  dark  brown;  then  add  the  flour, 
mix  until  smooth;  add  the  stock  or  boiling  water;  stir  con- 
tinually until  it  boils,  then  add  the  onion  juice,  catsup, 
lemon  juice,  bay  leaf,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  the 
mushrooms  chopped  fine ;  now  add  the  ducks  and  all  the 


198  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

gravy  from  the  dish  on  which  you  carved  them ;  cover  and 
simmer  gently  twenty  minutes,  if  tame;  ten  minutes,  if  wild. 
Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  wine,  and  serve  on  a  heated 
dish  with  a  border  of  toasted  bread  cut  into  triangles. 
Arrange  them  around  the  dish  with  the  points  toward  the 
outer  edge,  forming  a  pointed  border.  They  should  be  cut 
before  toasting. 

SALMI     OF     DUCK 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  Ragout  of  Duck,  adding  one  dozen 
olives  five  minutes  before  serving  time. 

TO    PREPARE    THE    OLIVES 

Stone  the  olives  by  cutting  around  and  around,  keeping 
close  to  the  stone  in  the  same  manner  as  you  pare  an  apple, 
and  throw  the  stone  away.  Put  the  olives  in  boiling  water 
and  soak  ten  minutes,  then  put  them  in  cold  water  until 
wanted. 

GEESE  AND  GOSLINGS 

As  geese  live  to  a  great  age,  care  should  be  taken  in  select- 
ing. They  are  not  good  when  over  three  years  old.  A 
young  goose  has  down  on  its  legs,  and  the  legs  are  soft  and 
yellow;  like  a  turkey,  as  it  grows  older,  the  legs  change  to 
a  reddish  color. 

ROAST    GOOSE 

Draw,  clean,  and  singe  the  goose  the  same  as  a  chicken. 
Wipe  it  inside  and  out  with  a  damp  towel.  Fill  with  Potato 
or  Onion  Stuffing  (see  recipe  for  same).  Sew  it  up  and 
truss,  being  careful  not  to  fill  it  too  full,  as  dressing  always- 
swells  while  cooking.  Place  it  in  a  baking-pan,  put  a  cup 
of  water  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  the  pan,  and  place  in 
a  quick  oven.  Roast  twenty-five  minutes  to  every  pound, 


POULTRY  AND    GAME     m  199 

basting  every  ten  minutes;  after  the  goose  has  been  roasting 
one  hour,  cool  the  oven,  and  roast  the  remainder  of  the 
time  at  a  moderate  heat.  Serve  with  giblet  sauce  made  the 
same  as  for  Roast  Chicken. 

Apple  sauce  should  always  be  served  with  roast  goose. 

Goslings  may  be  roasted  in  the  same  manner,  allow- 
ing fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound. 

GOOSE  STUFFED  WITH  SAUERKRAUT 
Draw  and  singe  the  goose  as  directed.  Wipe  it  inside  and 
out  with  a  damp  towel,  and  fill  with  sauerkraut.  Sew  it  up, 
tie  into  shape,  and  place  it  in  a  large  kettle,  cover  it 
with  about  two  quarts  of  sauerkraut,  cover  the  whole  with 
boiling  water  and  simmer  gently  for  three  hours.  At  the 
end  of  this  time  take  out  the  goose,  place  it  in  a  baking- 
pan,  baste  it  with  melted  butter,  dredge  the  breast  .thickly 
with  flour,  put  it  in  a  quick  oven  until  a  nice  brown  (about 
one  hour).  Serve  in  a  bed  of  the  boiled  sauerkraut. 

GUINEA  FOWLS 

A  young  guinea  fowl  makes  a  most  delicious  fricassee. 
Draw,  singe,  and  cut  up  the  same  as  Fricassee  of  Chicken. 
Put  a  quarter-pound  of  sliced  bacon  into  a  stewing-pan  ; 
when  brown,  add  the  guinea  fowl,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until 
every  piece  is  a  golden  brown.  Now  add  to  every  pair  of 
guinea  fowls  two  tablespoon fuls  of  flour ;  stir  until  thor- 
oughly mixed  ;  then  add  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  three  or  four  dashes  of  black  pepper.  Stir 
continually  until  it  boils.  Cover,  and  simmer  gently  about 
one  and  a  half  hours,  or  until  the  fowls  are  tender  when 
pierced  with  a  fork.  When  done,  taste  to  see  if  properly 
seasoned  ;  if  not,  add  more  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

Potato  croquettes  are  a  nice  accompaniment  to  this 
dish. 


200  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

GUINEA  POT-PIE 

Make  precisely  the  same  as  Chicken  Pot-pie,  using  two 
guineas  instead  of  one  chicken. 

PEA  FOWLS 

Draw  and  singe  the  same  as  chicken,  and  cook  according 
to  any  of  the  recipes  given  for  cooking  turkey. 

PIGEONS 
POTTED   PIGEONS 

^  dozen  pigeons  i  pint  of  stock  or  water 

%  pound  of  salt  pork  i  bay  leaf 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour      i  onion 
i  tablespoonful  of  mush-      i  sprig  of  parsley 
room  catsup  i  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 

A  little  black  pepper 

Clean  and  wash  the  pigeons ;  fill  same  as  a  roast  chicken, 
and  truss.  Put  the  pork  in  a  frying-pan  and  try  out  all  the 
fat.  Roll  the  pigeons  in  flour  and  brown  them  in  the  hot 
fat.  When  they  are  nicely  browned,  put  them  in  a  stewing- 
pan,  add  the  flour  to  the  fat  remaining  in  the  frying-pan, 
stir  until  a  nice  brown,  add  the  stock  or  water,  stir  again 
until  it  boils,  add  the  salt,  pepper,  catsup,  bay  leaf,  onion 
sliced,  parsley,  salt,  and  pepper.  Pour  this  over  the 
pigeons,  cover  the  stewing-pan,  and  simmer  gently  two 
hours.  When  done,  remove  the  strings,  strain  the  gravy 
over  and  around  the  pigeons.  Serve  with  boiled  rice  in  a 
separate  dish. 

ROAST  PIGEONS 

Draw,  singe,  and  stuff  the  same  as  a  chicken.  Place  them 
in  a  baking-pan ;  put  a  half-cup  of  water  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  in  the  pan ;  place  in  a  quick  oven,  and  bake  one 
hour,  basting  at  first  with  melted  butter,  afterwards  with 
their  own  gravy.  When  done,  dish  in  a  row  on  a  large 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  201 

meat  plate.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  to  the  pan, 
and  brown  ;  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  mix 
well ;  now  add  a  half-pint  of  boiling  water.  Stir  continu- 
ally until  it  boils,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Serve  in  a  boat. 

BROILED    SQUABS 

Clean  and  singe  same  as  a  chicken.  Split  them  down  the 
back,  flatten  them  with  a  rolling-pin,  and  wipe  carefully, 
inside  and  out,  with  a  damp  towel.  Broil  the  same  as 
spring  chickens. 

They  may  be  roasted  whole,  without  stuffing,  the  same 
as  woodcock. 

SALMI    OF  SQUAB 

6  squabs  i  bay  leaf 

slice  of  onion  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom 

pint  of  stock  catsup 

tablespoonful  of  Wor-       i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

cestershire  sauce  5  mushrooms 

tablespoonful  of  flour       i   tablespoonful  of  sherry,  if 
thin  slice  of  carrot  you  use  wine 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Clean  the  squabs  and  truss  them.  Put  the  butter  in  a  fry- 
ing-pan ;  and  when  hot,  brown  the  squabs.  Take  them  out 
and  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  onion,  carrot,  and 
bay  leaf.  Add  the  flour  to  the  butter  in  the  frying-pan 
mix  well,  and  then  add  the  stock,  stir  constantly  until  it 
boils,  pour  it  over  the  squabs,  cover  them,  and  simmer  until 
tender  (about  thirty  minutes).  When  done,  dish  the  squabs 
in  the  centre  of  a  meat  plate.  Add  to  the  sauce  the  mush- 
room catsup,  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  the  mushrooms 
chopped  fine,  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes; 
take  from  the  fire  and  add  the  wine,  strain  it  over  the 
squabs,  and  serve. 


202  PHILADELPHIA     COOK   BOOK 

BAKED  SQUABS 

6  squabs  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 

i  gill  of  stock        %  pound  of  bacon 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Clean  and  truss  the  birds.  Rub  the  breasts  with  a  piece 
of  onion.  Divide  the  butter  into  six  equal  parts,  put  one 
part  into  each  squab,  and  with  it  one  cranberry.  Now  put 
them  into  a  baking-pan,  cut  the  bacon  in  thin  slices,  put 
one  slice  over  the  breast  of  each  bird,  add  the  stock,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  bake  in  a  very  quick  oven  (420°  Fahr.) 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  basting  every  ten  minutes. 

Put  the  livers  and  hearts  in  a  stewing-pan  to  boil  at 
thcTsame  time  you  put  the  birds  in  the  oven.  Serve  the 
squabs  on  buttered  toast  with  the  following  sauce  poured 
around  them. 

Remove  the  bacon  from  the  pan,  then  put  into  it  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  brown,  add  one  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  and  the  livers  and  hearts  mashed  fine.  Mix  all 
well  together,  add  a  half-pint  of  stock,  stir  constantly  until 
it  boils,  add  salt  and  pepper. 

Serve  green  peas  as  an  accompaniment  to  this  dish. 


GAME 

In  winter  game  may  be  kept  two  weeks  without  spoiling  or 
iosing  one  particle  of  its  natural  flavor,  if  it  has  not  been 
packed  and  shipped.  As  our  Eastern  cities  are  supplied 
from  the  Western  States,  it  is  necessary  that  they  should  be 
packed  for  shipment,  which  causes  fermentation,  even  if 
the  weather  is  very  cold. 

TO    KEEP    BIRDS    FRESH 

Do  not  pick  them,  but  make  a  small  opening  under  the 
rump  just  large  enough  to  take  out  the  entrails,  which  do 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  203 

as  carefully  as  possible,  without  breaking  the  gall.  If  you 
should  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  break  it,  pick  the  bird,  wash 
it,  and  use  immediately;  it  will  not  keep.  Birds  may  be 
hung  up  by  the  feet  in  a  cold,  dry  place  for  one  or  two 
weeks,  until  the  feathers  come  out  easily. 


VENISON 

Venison,  like  mutton,  should  be  well  hung  in  a  cold,  dry 
place, — in  winter,  at  least  two  weeks ;  in  warmer  weather, 
one  week.  The  meat  should  be  of  fine  grain  and  nicely 
covered  with  fat.  If  the  venison  is  young,  the  hoof  will 
be  but  slightly  opened;  if  old,  wide  open. 

HAUNCH  OF  VENISON  ROASTED 

Wipe  the  venison  well  with  a  towel  dipped  in  warm  water. 
Leave  the  hoof  and  four  or  five  inches  of  skin  or  hair  on  the 
lower  part  of  the  leg.  Lard  the  haunch  thickly  with  salt 
pork.  If  you  have  no  larding-needle,  make  slight  incisions 
with  a  small  knife,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  apart,  and  put 
a  small  piece  of  salt  pork  in  each  incision.  It  may  be 
roasted  without  larding,  but  as  the  meat  is  naturally  dry,  it 
is  certainly  a  great  improvement.  Fold  a  piece  of  coarse 
muslin  into  three  or  four  thicknesses,  wide  enough  to  cover 
the  hoof  and  hair.  Dip  this  in  cold  water,  and  bind  it 
around  the  hoof  and  hair,  tie,  envelop  this  in  several  thick- 
nesses of  buttered  letter  paper,  and  tie  tightly.  This  is  to 
prevent  the  hair  and  hoof  from  changing  color.  If  your 
haunch  is  large,  the  cloth  may  require  a  second  or  third 
wetting.  Now  place  it  before  a  brisk  fire,  or  in  a  very  hot 
oven,  and  roast  fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound,  basting 
every  ten  minutes  at  first  with  melted  butter,  and  afterwards 
with  its  own  drippings.  When  half  done,  season  with  a 


204  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  few  dashes  of  black  pepper.  When 
done,  unwrap  the  hoof,  and  dish.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour  to  the  fat  in  the  pan  in  which  it  was  roasted,  stir 
until  brown,  add  one  pint  of  good  stock,  stir  constantly 
until  it  boils ;  take  from  the  fire,  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
currant  jelly  and  one  of  sherry,  season  with  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Serve  in  a  boat.  Currant  jelly  and  water-cress 
should  accompany  this  dish. 

SADDLE  OF  VENISON  ROASTED 

Saddle  and  shoulder  may  be  roasted  the  same  as  the  haunch. 
As  they  cannot  so  well  be  larded,  cover  them  with  several 
thicknesses  of  buttered  paper  while  roasting,  to  prevent  the 
juices  from  drying  out. 

VENISON  STEAKS  BROILED 

Steaks  are  usually  cut  from  the  leg  or  haunch.  As  it 
requires  but  a  very  short  time  to  broil  them,  and  they  are 
not  good  unless  very  hot,  see  that  everything  and  every- 
body is  ready  before  broiling.  Now  put  the  dish  in  which 
they  are  to  be  served  over  a  kettle  of  boiling  water  to  heat  \ 
put  in  it  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  a  quarter- 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  port  wine,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  currant  jelly.  Grease  the  bars  of  the  grid- 
iron with  suet,  lay  the  steaks  on  it,  and  broil  over  a  clear, 
hot  fire,  turning  almost  constantly.  If  your  steaks  are  a 
half-inch  thick,  eight  minutes  will  broil  them.  Put  them 
in  the  heated  dish,  and  turn  them  in  the  mixture  once  or 
twice.  Serve  immediately  on  heated  plates.  The  quanti- 
ties given  are  for  two  steaks. 

Vension  steaks  may  also  be  broiled  and  served  the 
same  as  beefsteaks,  with  a  simple  dressing  of  salt,  pepper 
and  butter. 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  205 

VENISON  CUTLETS 

Trim  the  cutlets  nicely.  Put  them  in  an  earthen  vessel, 
and  cover  with  a  marinade  made  as  follows:  To  every 
pound  of  venison  allow  four  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  four 
of  claret,  two  bay  leaves,  one  small  onion  sliced,  sprig  of 
parsley,  four  whole  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace ;  mix,  and 
put  into  a  porcelain  kettle,  stand  over  a  brisk  fire,  give  one 
boil  and  pour  over  the  cutlets.  Let  stand  until  next  day, 
turning  them  three  or  four  times.  Next  day  wipe  and  lard 
them,  and  broil  over  a  quick  fire.  Serve  with  the  same 
sauce  as  Vension  Steaks. 

These  may  also  be  broiled  and  served  with  brown  sauce. 

RAGOUT  OF  VENISON 

Ragout  of  venison  may  be  made  the  same  as  Ragout  of  Beef, 
using  venison  instead  of  beef,  adding  one  gill  of  port  wine 
and  one  tablespoon ful  of  currant  jelly  to  the  sauce  after 
you  take  it  from  the  fire. 

SOUR  STEW 

This  can  be  made  from  the  bones  and  meat,  after  the  steaks, 
haunch,  etc.,  have  been  taken  off.  Cut  two  pounds  of 
meat  into  pieces  about  an  inch  square.  Put  a  quarter- 
pound  of  sliced  bacon  in  a  frying-pan,  and  try  out  all  the 
fat.  Dredge  the  meat  thickly  with  flour,  and  brown  it  in 
the  bacon  fat.  Take  it  out  with  a  skimmer  and  put  it  in  a 
stewpan.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  to  the  fat  in 
which  the  meat  was  browned,  mix  well,  and  brown ;  add 
one  pint  of  boiling  water,  stir  constantly  until  it  boils,  and 
pour  it  over  the  meat.  Cover  it,  and  let  simmer  gently 
one  hour.  Now  add  one  small  onion  sliced,  one  bay  leaf, 
one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  thin  paring  of 


206  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

lemon  peel,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  tablespoon ful  of  Wor- 
cestershire sauce,  and  let  simmer  one  hour  longer.  Take 
from  the  fire,  add  a  tablespoon  ful  of  vinegar,  and  serve. 

VENISON    IN   A  CHAFING-DISH 

Put  a  piece  of  butter,  the  size  of  a  walnut,  in  your  chafing- 
dish  ;  and,  when  hot,  put  in  the  steak.  When  brown  on  one 
side,  turn  and  brown  on  the  other,  and  add  a  quarter- 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  currant  jelly,  two 
tablespoon fuls  of  sherry,  and  a  little  black  pepper.  Cover 
the  dish  ;  let  all  heat  together  about  two  minutes,  and  serve. 

TO  CURE  VENISON  HAMS 

These  may  be  cured  exactly  the  same  as  ordinary  pork 
hams.  They  are  usually  eaten  chipped,  but  they  are  deli- 
cious frizzled  the  same  as  dried  beef. 


BUFFALO    STEAKS 

Buffalo  steaks  are  broiled  precisely  the  same  as  beefsteak, 
seasoning  only  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper. 
Buffalo  meat  may  also  be  roasted  or  stewed. 


BEAR    MEAT 

Bear  meat  is  best  roasted.     It  may  be  treated  the  same  as 
pork,  cooking  twenty  minutes  to  every  pound. 

BEAR    STEAKS 

Bear  steaks  may  be  cooked  in  a  chafing-dish,  the  same  as 
venison  steaks,  omitting  the  currant  jelly. 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  207 

RABBITS  OR  HARES 

TO    SELECT 

The  body  should  be  rather  stiff,  free  from  any  unpleasant 
odor,  and  the  flesh  of  a  reddish  appearance.    If  young,  it 
will  have  soft  paws  and  ears;  if  old,  the  ears  will  be  stiff 
and  the  edges  rough,  the  paws  hard  and  worn. 
Tame  rabbits,  as  a  rule,  are  not  fit  to  use. 

FRICASSEE    OF  RABBIT 

Skin  the  rabbit ;  singe  it.  Remove  the  entrails,  if  it  has 
not  been  previously  cleaned.  Wipe  it  well  inside  and  out 
with  a  wet  cloth,  then  dry.  Do  not  wash  or  soak,  as  the 
blood  of  the  rabbit  is  a  great  improvement  to  the  flavor. 
Cut  it  first  down  the  back,  splitting  it  into  halves ;  then 
cut  each  half  into  four  pieces.  P'inish  precisely  the  same 
as  Fricassee  of  Chicken,  either  brown  or  white. 

BROILED    RABBIT 

The  rabbit  must  be  very  young  and  tender  for  this  purpose. 
Clean  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe.  Cut  into  halves  only, 
and  broil  the  same  as  a  spring  chicken.  Serve  on  a  hot 
dish ;  dredge  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  butter  liberally. 

PANNED    RABBIT 

Clean  and  cut  into  halves  as  directed.  Place  in  a  baking- 
pan,  spread  lavishly  with  butter,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  one  hour,  basting  every  ten  min- 
utes. When  done,  lay  on  a  heated  dish.  Add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  to  the  fat  in  the  pan  ;  mix  well  \  add  a 
half-pint  of  boiling  water,  stir  until  it  boils,  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  pour  it  over  and  around  the  rabbit,  and  it 
is  ready  to  serve. 


208  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

RABBIT   PIE 

Make  the  same  as  Chicken  Pie,  using  two  rabbits  instead 
of  one  chicken. 

The   English  hares  may  be  cooked  the  same  as  our 
common  wild  rabbits. 

SQUIRRELS 

Squirrels  may  be  fricasseed,  broiled,  and  panned  precisely 
the  same  as  rabbits. 

RACCOONS,  SKUNKS  AND  OPOSSUMS 

These  are  eaten  by  many  people,  but  as  I  have  had  no  ex- 
perience in  cooking  the  above  animals,  I  will  merely  state 
that  they  may  be  cooked  in  all  the  ways  that  rabbits  are, 
and  served  the  same. 


WILD  TURKEY 

Draw  and  singe  the  same  as  a  chicken.  Wipe  inside  and 
out  carefully  with  a  damp  towel.  Make  a  stuffing  from 
two  cups  of  stale  bread,  a  quarter-pound  of  salt  pork 
chopped  fine,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter-tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  mixed  well  together.  Stuff  the  space 
from  which  the  crop  was  taken,  allowing  room  for  the 
filling  to  swell,  then  put  the  remainder  in  the  body  of  the 
bird.  Truss.  Place  in  a  baking-pan,  cover  the  breast  with 
thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  put  a  half-cup  of  water  in  the  pan, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  fifteen  minutes  to  every  pound. 
After  one  hour,  cool  the  oven  slightly,  put  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  in  the  pan,  and  baste  with  melted  butter  every  ten  min- 
utes at  first,  afterwards  with  its  own  gravy.  Serve  with 
giblet  sauce,  the  same  as  tame  turkey.  Cranberry  sauce 
should  always  accompany  this  dish. 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  209 

WILD    DUCKS 

Wild  ducks  may  be  selected  the  same  as  tame  ones.  Can- 
vas-backs and  redheads  are  considered  best,  but  the  blue- 
winged  teal,  black  duck,  widgeon  and  wood  duck  are  all 
good. 

TO  ROAST   WILD   DUCK 

Pick,  draw,  and  singe  the  same  as  chicken.  Wipe  them 
inside  and  out  with  a  damp  towel.  Do  not  wash  them 
unless  you  break  the  gall  or  intestines,  as  it  greatly  destroys 
the  flavor.  If  they  have  a  fishy  odor,  rub  the  breast  lightly 
with  a  piece  of  onion,  and  put  three  or  four  cranberries 
(uncooked)  in  the  duck  before  cooking  it.  Tuck  back  the 
wings  and  truss  the  legs  down  close  to  the  body.  Put  the 
cranberries  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut  in 
each  duck.  Place  them  in  a  baking-pan,  add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter-cup  of  boiling  water  to  the 
the  pan,  baste  them  well  with  melted  butter,  put  them  into 
a  very  hot  oven,  and  bake  forty-five  minutes,  if  wanted 
rare ;  one  hour,  if  well  done ;  basting  with  their  own  gravy 
every  five  minutes.  When  done,  serve  with  the  gravy  from 
the  pan  poured  over  them.  Wild  ducks  are  much  better 
when  not  stuffed  ;  but  if  stuffing  is  preferred,  potato  is 
best.  (See  recipe  for  Potato  Stuffing.) 

Serve  currant  jelly  and  green  peas  with  them. 

SALMI  OF  WILD    DUCK 

Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  for  Salmi  of  Tame  Duck, 
and  it  is  most  delicious. 

RAGOUT    OF   WILD    DUCK 

A  whole  duck,  or  the  remains  from  yesterday's  dinner,  may 
be  used  for  this  dish.  (See  recipe  for  Ragout  of  Duck.) 


210  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

WILD  GOOSE 

A  wild  goose  may  be  selected  and  cooked  precisely  the 
same  as  a  wild  duck. 

WILD    PIGEONS 

Wild  pigeons  may  be  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as 
tame  ones.  Roasted  or  baked,  they  make  a  very  nice  gar- 
nish for  a  wild  turkey.  After  the  turkey  is  dished,  arrange 
six  or  eight  pigeons  around  it ;  fill  the  vacant  spaces  with 
curly  parsley. 

This  makes  a  very  sightly  dish. 

PIGEON    PIE 

Pick  and  clean  four  wild  pigeons,  the  same  as  chicken.  Cut 
them  into  halves,  put  them  into  a  baking-pan,  baste  with 
melted  butter,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  forty-five  min- 
utes, basting  with  melted  butter,  salt  and  pepper  every  ten 
minutes,  using  in  all  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  a 
half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of  pepper.  At  the  end 
of  this  time,  take  them  out.  Line  a  two-quart  tin  basin 
or  a  raised  pie-mould  with  plain  butter  paste.  Have  ready 
one  pound  of  ham  cut  into  dice,  six  hard-boiled  eggs  sliced. 
Put  a  layer  of  pigeons  in  the  bottom,  then  ham,  then  eggs, 
then  salt,  pepper,  and  a  few  bits  of  butter,  then  pigeon, 
and  so  on,  until  all  is  used.  Cover  with  a  thick  sheet  of 
paste ;  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  and  ornament  with  some 
leaves  and  flowers  cut  out  of  the  paste  trimmings.  Bake  in 
a  quick  oven  for  thirty  minutes,  or  until  the  paste  is  done. 
Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  the  pan  in  which  they 
were  roasted,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  a  nice  brown,  then 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  mix  until  smooth ; 
add  orife  pint  of  boiling  water,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ; 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  211 

stir  continually  until  it  boils ;  take  from  the  fire,  add  the 
beaten  yolk  of  one  egg,  and  pour  into  the  pie  through  a 
funnel,  placed  in  the  hole  in  the  centre  of  top  crust,  and 
it  is  ready  to  serve.  It  is  most  delicious. 

Tame  pigeons  may  be  used,  but  are  not  as  good  as  the 
wild  ones. 

PIGEONS  LARDED  AND  BROILED 
Pick  the  pigeons,  cut  off  the  head  and  feet,  then  split  the 
birds  down  the  back  and  take  out  the  entrails ;  wipe  them 
well  inside  and  out  with  a  wet  towel,  and  dry  them.  Lard 
the  breast  with  lardoons  (small  strips  of  fat  pork),  using  a 
very  fine  needle.  Dust  the  birds  with  salt  and  pepper,  place 
them  on  a  broiler,  and  broil  over  a  moderate  fire  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  turning  frequently.  Place  on  squares 
of  hot  buttered  toast,  baste  with  melted  butter,  and  serve. 
Squabs  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  way,  and  served 
on  a  bed  of  green  peas. 


OTHER    GAME    BIRDS 

TO    ROAST    PARTRIDGES,    PHEASANTS,    QUAIL, 
GROUSE,  OR  PRAIRIE  FOWLS 

Pick  and  draw  the  birds  the  same  as  chicken.  Wipe  them 
carefully,  inside  and  out,  with  a  wet  towel ;  then  dry  them. 
Do  not  wash  unless  you  wish  to  spoil  them.  Now  tuck  the 
wings  back,  and  fasten  the  legs  up  to  the  sides  of  the  body 
with  a  small  skewer,  so  that  when  the  bird  is  on  its  back 
the  legs  stand  up,  not  down  toward  the  rump,  as  you  truss 
a  chicken.  Lard  them  thickly  over  the  breast  (this  may 
be  omitted,  but  they  are  not  so  good),  place  them  in  a 
baking-pan  or  before  a  good  fire,  baste  with  melted  butter 
at  first  and  afterwards  with  their  own  gravy ;  dredge  with 


212  PHILADELPHIA    COOK    BOOK 

salt  and  pepper  when  half  done.  Roast  three-quarters  of 
an  hour,  if  liked  rare  \  if  well  done,  one  hour.  Serve  on 
squares  of  toast,  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan  poured  around 
them.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

TO  BROIL  PHEASANTS,  PARTRIDGES,  QUAIL, 
GROUSE,  OR    PRAIRIE    FOWLS 

Split  them  down  the  back,  lard  the  breasts,  and  broil  the 
same  as  pigeons. 

Serve  currant  jelly  with  them. 

TO  ROAST  WOODCOCKS,  SNIPES,  OR  PLOVERS 
Many  prefer  these  birds  not  drawn ;  that  is,  the  crop  only 
is  taken  out  through  a  small  slit  in  the  skin  on  the  back  of 
the  neck,  while  all  the  entrails  are  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
bird.  Of  course,  every  one  to  his  own  taste  ;  but  we  pre- 
fer and  recommend  that  they  should  be  drawn,  but  not 
washed,  as  it  certainly  does  spoil  game  or  poultry  to  put 
them  in  water.  Wipe  them,  inside  and  out,  with  a  damp 
towel,  and  then  dry  on  a  clean  one. 

For  those  who  like  the  trail,  as  it  is  called,  we  will 
give  the  following  recipe  : 

Pick  the  birds,  singe,  and  take  out  the  crop  as  directed. 
Cut  the  wings  off  at  the  second  joint — that  is,  the  second 
from  the  tip.  Scald  the  legs  and  peel  the  skin  off  the  feet 
and  lower  part  of  legs ;  pick  the  necks  all  the  way  up  to 
the  head ;  then  singe,  fold  the  legs  close  to  the  body,  and 
rnn  the  bill  of  the  bird  through  both  legs  and  the  body. 
Cover  the  breast  with  thin  slices  of  bacon  and  fasten  with 
twine.  Now  place  the  birds  in  a  baking-pan  with  a  square 
of  toasted  bread  under  each  bird  to  catch  the  trail ;  put 
them  in  a  hot  oven  or  before  a  good  fire.  Roast  thirty-five 
minutes,  basting  every  five  minutes,  the  first  time  with 


POULTRY  AND    GAME  213 

melted  butter  and  afterwards  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan. 
Remove  the  bacon  five  minutes  before  the  birds  are  done, 
baste  them  with  melted  butter,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  put  back  to  brown.  Serve  on  a  heated  dish  with  the 
squares  of  toast  under  them.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  a 
spoonful  of  currant  jelly. 

We  will  say  to  those  who,  like  ourselves,  prefer  them 
drawn,  proceed  as  directed  above,  only  draw  the  bird  and 
wipe  it  inside  and  out. 


TO  ROAST  RAIL  AND  REED  BIRDS 
Pick,  draw,  and  singe  the  birds.  Cut  off  the  ends  of  the 
wings  and  the  feet.  Leave  the  heads  on.  Wipe  the  birds, 
inside  and  out,  and  wrap  each  in  a  thin  slice  of  bacon. 
Take  a  skewer  long  enough  to  hold  six  birds,  run  the  skewer 
through  the  bacon  and  the  bodies  of  the  birds,  fasten  them 
on  the  spit  and  roast  before  a  clear  fire  fifteen  minutes, 
basting  almost  constantly  with  their  own  dripping. 
Serve  each  bird  on  a  square  of  toast  garnished  with  parsley 
— of  course,  removing  the  skewer  and  bacon. 

Or,  wrap  the  birds  in  bacon  and  tie  with  twine,  place 
them  in  rows  in  a  baking-pan,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
fifteen  minutes,  basting  three  or  four  times  with  their  own 
dripping.  When  done,  remove  the  bacon  and  strings, 
serve  on  squares  of  buttered  toast  with  the  gravy  from  the 
pan  poured  around  them.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

All  small  birds,  such  as  meadow  larks,  robins,  black- 
birds and  sparrows,  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  manner. 

BLACKBIRD    PIE 

Blackbird  pie  may  be  made  the  same  as  Pigeon  Pie,  using 
one  dozen  blackbirds  instead  of  four  pigeons. 


214  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

GAME   PIE 

For  this  any  of  the  birds  mentioned  in  the  preceding 
recipes  may  be  used.  We  will  use  partridges.  Bone  the 
partridges  according  to  the  directions  for  boning  chicken. 
Then  cut  them  in  halves.  Cut  one  dozen  mushrooms  or 
truffles  into  thin  slices.  Cut  one  pound  of  ham  into  dice. 
Cut  six  hard-boiled  eggs  into  slices.  Chop  some  parsley 
very  fine.  Have  ready  one  batch  of  puff  paste  and  half 
the  quantity  given  in  recipe  of  Suet  Paste  (see  recipe  for 
Suet  Paste).  Roll  half  the  puff  paste  down  to  the  thickness 
of  one-third  of  an  inch.  Grease  a  French  pie-mould  and 
line  it  carefully  with  this  sheet  of  paste.  With  a  sharp 
knife  cut  the  paste  even  with  the  top  of  the  mould.  Roll 
the  suet  paste  down  to  the  thickness  of  a  quarter  of  an 
inch,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  one  inch  square.  Now  put  a 
layer  of  birds  in  the  bottom  of  the  mould,  then  a  sprink- 
ling of  ham,  salt,  pepper,  parsley,  hard-boiled  eggs,  and 
squares  of  the  suet  paste,  a  few  bits  of  butter  here  and 
there ;  now  another  layer  of  birds,  and  so  on  until  all  the 
materials  are  used.  Now  roll  out  for  the  top  crust  the 
remainder  of  the  puff  paste,  wet  the  edges  of  the  under- 
crust  with  cold  water,  put  the  paste  for  the  cover  on  the 
pie,  and  press  it  gently  with  the  thumb  to  cement  the  two 
edges  together,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  off  the  upper 
paste  even  with  the  mould.  Make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of 
the  top  crust.  Roll  out  these  trimmings  of  the  paste  and 
cut  into  leaf-shaped  pieces,  form  and  pinch  them  together 
in  the  shape  of  a  flower,  and  place  in  the  hole  of  the  upper 
crust.  Brush  the  cover  of  the  pie  with  beaten  egg,  and 
bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven  (about  400°  Fahr.)  for 
two  hours.  While  the  pie  is  baking,  take  the  bones,  hearts 
and  livers  of  the  birds,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  and  cover 
with  a  quart  of  cold  water  ;  add  a  slice  of  onion  and  a  bay 


POULTRY  AND  GAME  215 

leaf,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  pie  is  done ;  then  strain. 
Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  stir 
until  a  dark  brown  ;  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour; 
mix  until  smooth ;  add  one  pint  of  the  stock  from  bones 
and  liver,  and  stir  constantly  until  it  boils ;  add  six  mush- 
rooms, chopped  very  fine ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste ;  take  from  the  fire,  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  and,  if  you  use  wine,  one  tablespoonful  of  sherry. 
Pour  the  sauce  in  the  pie  through  a  funnel  placed  in  the 
hole  on  the  top,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  flower.  Lift 
the  pie  carefully  on  to  a  heated  dish,  remove  the  mould, 
and  serve. 

Or,  omit  the  sauce  and  allow  the  pie  to  cool.  When 
cold,  garnish  with  aspic  jelly  cut  into  fancy  shapes,  and 
put  on  the  dish  and  around  the  top  of  the  pie. 


216  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


ADDITIONAL    RECIPES  217 


218  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 


FORCEMEATS  AND   STUFFINGS 


HAM    FORCEMEAT 

i  pint  of  cold  cooked          i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 

ham,  chopped  fine  parsley 

i  pint  of  milk  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

YZ  pint  of  stale  bread  ^  teaspoonful  of  cayenne 

crumbs  i  teaspoonful  of  French 

Yolks  of  three  eggs  mustard 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil,  add  the  bread  crumbs,  and  stir 
until  it  thickens,  then  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs;  take  from 
the  fire  and  add  all  the  other  ingredients,  mix,  stand  away 
to  cool,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

This  may  be  used  as  stuffing  for  game  or  meats,  or 
made  into  small  balls,  dipped  in  egg  and  bread  crumbs, 
fried  in  boiling  fat,  and  used  to  garnish  made  meat  dishes. 

CHICKEN     FORCEMEAT 

i  four-pound  chicken         i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 

i  pint  of  milk  parsley 

Yolks  of  three  eggs  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  cup  of  bread  crumbs    ^  teaspoonful  of  cayenne 

i^  teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg 

Clean  and  draw  the  chicken  as  directed.  Take  the  meat 
from  the  bones  and  chop  very  fine.  (The  bones  and  skin 

may  be  used  for  soup  or  stock.)     Put  the  milk  on  to  boil, 

(219) 


220  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

add  to  it  the  bread  crumbs,  stir  until  it  thickens,  add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  well  beaten ;  take  from  the  fire  and  add 
all  the  other  ingredients,  mix,  and  stand  away  to  cool.  Use 
the  same  as  Ham  Forcemeat. 

BREAD    STUFFING 

1  pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

^  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper 
i  tablespoon  ful  of  chopped  parsley 
i  teaspoonful  of  sweet  marjoram 

Mix  the  bread,  salt,  pepper,  parsley  and  sweet  marjoram 
together,  then  moisten  with  the  melted  butter,  and  it  is 
ready  to  use. 

SAGE    STUFFING 

Make  same  as  preceding  recipe,  adding  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
powdered  sage. 

ONION    STUFFING 

This  may  be  made  the  same  as  Bread  Stuffing,  omitting  the 
sweet  marjoram,  and  adding  two  large  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  onion. 

POTATO    STUFFING 

2  cups  of  mashed  potatoes  Yolks  of  two  eggs 

(hot)  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  parsley 

^  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
Mix  the  whole  together  and  beat  well.  This  stuffing  is  nice 
for  ducks  or  geese. 


MEAT  AND    FISH    SAUCES 
AND   GRAVIES 


Once  a  week  in  winter  and  twice  a  week  in  summer  you 
should  make  your  gravy  and  sauce  stock;  and  for  this 
you  should  save  every  bone,  cooked  or  uncooked,  of  beef, 
mutton,  veal,  ham,  poultry  and  game,  the  green  tops  of 
celery  and  all  juices  left  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish  from 
steaks  or  roasts.  Keep  them  in  a  stone  jar  in  a  cold  place 
until  wanted.  An  economical  housekeeper  has  always  on 
hand  a  good  supply  of  this  stock  without  the  outlay  of  a 
single  cent.  It  should  be  made  on  ironing  or  baking  day, 
thereby  saving  the  use  of  any  extra  fuel.  This  stock  could 
be  used  for  soups,  but  is  never  perfectly  clear  and  is  not 
so  nutritious  as  stock  made  from  the  shin  of  beef. 

The  preparation  of  sauces  and  gravies  is  of  the  greatest 
importance,  and  in  nothing  does  the  talent  of  a  cook  more 
display  itself.  All  ingredients  used  should  harmonize  and 
blend  perfectly,  and  you  must  bear  in  mind  that  water  is 
no  substitute  for  stock.  Many  cooks  fail  in  the  thickening 
of  sauces.  The  butter  and  flour  should  be  well  rubbed  and 
cooked  together  before  adding  the  liquid  to  prevent  the 
sauce  from  having  a  floury,  uncooked  taste.  The  Drawn 

Butter  sauce,  simple  as  it  is,  is  seldom  properly  prepared. 

(221) 


222  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

The  common  practice  of  wetting  the  flour  and  then  stir- 
ring it  into  the  gravy  is  objectionable,  as  in  this  way  the 
flour  does  not  hold  the  fat  in  suspension,  and  it  therefore 
invariably  floats. 

All  sauces  must  be  stirred  continually  while  on  the  fire, 
and  seasoned  carefully,  so  that  each  sauce  may  have  its  own 
individual  flavor. 

Spare  the  cayenne ;  remember  it  destroys  every  other 
flavor  as  well  as  your  own  taste. 

"For  palates  grown  callous  almost  to  disease^ 
Who  peppers  the  highest  is  surest  to  please" 

— Goldsmith. 

STOCK   FOR   SAUCES   AND    GRAVIES 

Place  in  a  soup  kettle  all  the  fresh  bones  taken  from 
your  roasts  and  steaks,  cooked  or  uncooked,  bones  of  mut- 
ton, lamb,  veal,  beef  or  poultry ;  also,  the  trimmings  of 
same  if  fresh,  allowing  one  quart  of  cold  water  to  every 
pound  of  bones  and  meat.  Boil  and  skim  same  as  Soup 
Stock  -,  add  the  same  vegetables  and  seasoning. 

This  stock  is  excellent  for  sauces  and  gravies  in  the 
place  of  water,  but  does  not  make  a  good  soup  stock. 

ALLEMANDE    SAUCE 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

6  mushrooms,  chopped  fine         j4  pint  of  white  stock 
Yolks  of  three  eggs  ^  teaspoon  ful  of  grated 

YZ  teaspoon  ful  of  onion  juice  nutmeg 

%  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 
Melt  the  butter,  but  do  not  brown  it;  then  add  the  flour, 
mix  well ;  add  the  stock,  stir  continually  until  it  boils ;  add 
the  mushrooms,  simmer  one  minute.  Take  from  the  fire, 
add  the  beaten  yolks,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  onion  juice. 
This  is  a  nice  sauce  for  boiled  or  baked  fish.  Do  not  boil 
after  adding  the  eggs. 


SAUCES  AND    GRAVIES  223 

ANCHOVY    SAUCE 

Make  a  Mattre  d'  Hotel  Sauce,  then  add  to  it  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  anchovy  paste. 

The  paste  may  be  purchased  from  your  grocer  in  bot- 
tles ready  for  use. 

This  is  a  nice  sauce  for  fried  fish 

APPLE    SAUCE 

6  tart  apples  ^  cup  of  water 

Sugar  and  nutmeg  to  taste 

Pare,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  put  them  in  a  porcelain 
kettle  with  the  water,  cook  and  stir  until  soft  (about  ten 
minutes);  then  mash  them  through  a  sieve,  or,  better,  a 
"  Hen  is  Vegetable  Press,"  add  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
sugar,  and  nutmeg,  mix  well,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 
This  should  accompany  all  pork  dishes. 

BEARNAISE     SAUCE 

Yolks  of  four  eggs  4  tablespoon  fuls  of  olive  oil 

Dash  of  cayenne  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

4  tablespoon  fuls  of  hot  water 
i  tablespoon ful  of  tarragon  vinegar 

Beat  the  yolks  until  creamy,  add  the  water  and  oil,  stand 
the  bowl  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  the  eggs 
thicken.  Take  from  the  fire  and  add  the  vinegar,  salt  and 
pepper;  mix  well,  and  stand  away  to  cool. 

This  is  most  delicious,  and    may  be  served   with  a 
broiled  steak,  smelts,  or  lobster  chops. 

BECHAMEL    SAUCE 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

1  gill  of  stock  i  gill  of  cream 

2  dashes  of  pepper  Yolk  of  one  egg 

T/2  teaspoonful  of  salt 
Melt  the  butter  without  browning,  then  add  the  flour,  mix 


224  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

X 

until  smooth;  add  the  stock  and  cream,  stir  continually  un- 
til it  boils;  take  from  the  fire,  add  the  salt,  pepper,  and 
the  yolk  of  the  egg  well  beaten. 

This  sauce  is  especially  nice  for  sweetbreads,  chickens, 
cutlets,  and  baked  or  boiled  fish. 

BREAD    SAUCE 

i  pint  of  milk  ^  pint  of  bread  crumbs 

1  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice,     i  blade  of  mace 

or  one  small  onion  i  bay  leaf 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Put  the  bread  and  milk  in  a  farina  boiler,  add  the  onion, 
mace,  and  bay  leaf,  cook  five  minutes ;  then  press  through 
a  sieve,  return  to  the  fire,  add  the  butter,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

BROWN  SAUCE         No.  i 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter       i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
y<2,  pint  of  stock  ^  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice 

y2  teaspoonful  of  salt 
Y%  teaspoonful  of  white  or  black  pepper 
Melt  the  butter,  stir  until  a  dark  brown,  add  the  flour,  mix 
well;  add  the  stock,  and  stir  continually  until  it  boils;  add 
onion  juice,  salt  and  pepper,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

BROWN  SAUCE         No.  2 

i  large  tablespoonful  of        i  even  tablespoonful  of  flour 

butter  y2  pint  of  boiling  water 

i  small  onion  i  small  carrot 

i  bay  leaf  i  blade  of  mace 

i  sprig  of  parsley  i  tablespoon ful  of  Worcester- 

i  tablespoonful  of  mush-  shire  sauce 

room  catsup  i  tablespoonful  of  sherry,  if 

y>  teaspoonful  of  salt  you  use  wine 

y&  teaspoonful  of  pepper 
Melt  and  stir    the  butter  over  the  fire  until  a  dark  brown, 


SAUCES  AND    GRAVIES  225 

then  add  the  flour,  and  mix  smooth ;  add  the  boiling  water, 
stir  continually  until  it  boils;  add  the  onion,  carrot,  bay 
leaf,  mace,  and  parsley.  Simmer  very  gently  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  strain,  add  the  salt,  Worcestershire  sauce, 
mushroom  catsup,  and  pepper;  stir  until  thoroughly  mixed, 
and  it  is  ready  to  use.  This  is  nice  for  beefsteak  or 
warmed-over  meats. 

BROWN  SAUCE     No.  3 
^  pound  of  bacon  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  catsup 

i  tablespoonful  of  Worces-     i  tablespoonful  of  sherry,  if 

tershire  sauce  you  use  wine 

]/2  pint  of  stock  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Slice  the  bacon,  put  it  in  a  frying-pan  and  try  out  all  the 
fat.  Take  out  the  bacon,  add  the  flour,  stir  until  smooth; 
add  the  stock,  stir  continually  until  it  boils;  add  the  Wor- 
cestershire sauce,  mushroom  catsup,  salt  and  pepper;  take 
from  the  fire,  and  add  the  wine. 

CAPER    SAUCE 

Make  a  Drawn  Butter,  according  to  the  recipe  given,  add 
to  it  one  large  tablespoonful  of  capers. 

This  is  nice  served  with  boiled  mutton  or  fish. 

CELERY    SAUCE 

5  roots  of  celery  i  pint  of  cold  water 

i  even  tablespoonful  of  flour     i  gill  of  milk 
i  tablespoonful  of  butter  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Clean  the  celery,  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  put  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan, add  the  water,  cover  the  saucepan,  and  stew  slowly 
for  half  an  hour,  then  press  it  through  a  colander.  Put  the 
butter  in  a  frying-pan ;  when  melted,  add  the  flour,  mix ; 
add  the  milk  and  celery,  stir  continually  until  it  boils;  add 
salt  and  pepper,  and  it  i§  ready  to  use. 

This  sauce  is  usually  served  with  boiled  poultry. 


226  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

CHAMPAGNE   SAUCE 

Make  Brown  Sauce  No.  i,  omitting  the  onion  juice;  take 
from  the  fire,  add  one  gill  of  champagne. 

This  is  suitable  for  game.     It  may  be  varied  by  adding 
one  gill  of  port  wine  instead  of  champagne. 

CHESTNUT    SAUCE 

i  pint  of  the  large  chestnuts     i  large  tablespoonful  of 

i  pint  of  stock  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Roast   the  chestnuts;  when  done,  peel  them,  mash  fine. 

Melt  the  butter  and  stir  until  a  dark  brown,  then  add  the 

flour,  mix  well ;  add  the  stock  and  chestnuts,  stir  continually 

until  it  boils;  add  the  salt  and  pepper. 

This  is  especially  nice  for  roasted  poultry. 

CRANBERRY    SAUCE 

i  quart  of  cranberries  i  pint  of  water 

i  pound  of  sugar 

Wash  the  cranberries  in  cold  water,  put  them  in  a  por- 
celain-lined kettle  with  one  pint  of  water,  and  boil  rapidly 
ten  minutes,  or  until  the  berries  pop;  then  press  them 
through  a  colander,  return  them  to  the  kettle,  add  the 
sugar,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  sugar  is  thoroughly 
melted  (this  will  take  about  two  minutes);  turn  out  to  cool. 
Serve  with  poultry,  game,  venison,  or  mutton. 

CREAM    SAUCE 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour        i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
^  pint  of  cream  or  milk     ^  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

2-  dashes  of  pepper 

Melt  the  butter,  being  careful  not  to  brown  it;  add  the 
flour,  mix  until  smooth ;  then  add  the  cream  or  milk,  stir 
continually  until  it  boils;  add  sak  and  pepper,  and  use  at 
once.  If  you  are  not  quite  ready  to  use  it,  stand  it  over 


SAUCES   AND    GRAVIES  227 

boiling  water  to  keep  warm,  stirring  frequently  to  prevent 
a  crust  from  forming  on  the  top. 

This  sauce  may  be  used  with  lobster  chops,  sweetbreads, 
chicken  chops,  and  other  similar  dishes. 

CREAM  SAUCE  WITH  MUSHROOMS 
Make  a  Cream  Sauce,  add  one  cup  of  fresh  mushrooms 
chopped  fine,  or  the  same  quantity  of  canned  mushrooms, 
and  cook  over  boiling  water  ten  minutes.  If  canned  mush- 
rooms are  used,  simply  heat,  do  not  cook,  as  it  toughens 
the  mushrooms. 

This  sauce  may  be  used  the  same  as  Cream  Sauce. 

CURRANT  JELLY   SAUCE 

Make  Brown  Sauce  No.  i,  and  add  to  it  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  currant  jelly ;  let  it  boil  up  once,  and  it  is  ready  to 
use. 

This  is  served  with  game. 

CURRY   SAUCE 

Add  one  teaspoon ful  of  curry  powder  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  onion  juice  to  the  recipe  for  Drawn  Butter. 

DRAWN    BUTTER 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter     ^  pint  of  boiling  water 
i  tablespoon  ful  of  flour         ]/?,  teaspoonful  of  salt 
Mix  the  butter  and  flour  to  a  smooth  paste  in  a  bowl,  place 
the  bowl  over  the  fire  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  add  the 
half-pint  of  boiling  water  gradually,  stirring  all  the  while 
until  it  thickens;    add  the  salt.     Take  from   the  fire  and 
use  immediately.      The  great   point  in  preparing  drawn 
butter  is  to  take  from  the  fire  as  soon  as  it  thickens.     For 
this  sauce  it  is  very  essential  to  have  good  butter.      Serve 
with  asparagus,  boiled  fish,  cauliflower,  etc. 


228  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

EGG   SAUCE 

Make  a  Cream  Sauce,  and  when  finished  add  two  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  the  whites  chopped  very  fine  and  the  yolks 
pressed  through  a  sieve.  Serve  with  boiled  poultry. 

ESPAGNOLE  SAUCE 

Boil  one  quart  of  consomme  until  reduced  to  one  pint. 
Then  put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  stir 
until  very  brown ;  then  add  two  tablespoon fuls  of  flour; 
mix  well ;  add  the  reduced  consomme,  stir  continually  until 
it  boils ;  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire 
sauce,  one  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup,  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste.  Take  from  the  fire  and  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sherry. 

FISH  SAUCE 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped      Yolks  of  three  eggs 
parsley  ^  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped      i  dash  of  cayenne 
gherkins  ^  pint  of  olive  oil 

i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar 

Put  the  chopped  parsley  into  a  bowl  and  pound  it  with  a 
potato-masher  until  reduced  to  a  pulp,  then  add  to  it  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  mix  thoroughly,  and  proceed  as  for  May- 
onnaise Dressing.  When  you  have  finished  it,  add  the 
cayenne  and  gherkin.  Serve  with  boiled  or  broiled  fish. 

SAUCE  HOLLANDAISE 

Make  a  Drawn  Butter ;  when  you  have  finished  it,  take  it 
from  the  fire,  and  add  gradually  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
(beaten) ;  then  add  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  teaspoonful 
of  onion  juice,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
Serve  with  boiled  or  baked  fish  and  fish  croquettes. 

LOBSTER   SAUCE 

Make  a  Drawn  Butter ;  when  you  have  finished  it,  add 
one  cup  of  boiled  lobster,  chopped  fine,  and  the  coral,  if 


SAUCES  AND    GRAVIES  229 

there  be  any,  rubbed  to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  tablespoon fuJ 
of  butter.  Return  it  to  the  fire  and  stir  for  five  minutes. 
Serve  with  fish. 

MAITRE  d'HOTEL   SAUCE 
2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 
i  tablespoon ful  of  chopped  parsley 
i  tablespoon  ful  of  lemon  juice 
%  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  and  knead  well  together  in  a  bowl. 
It  should  be  perfectly  smooth.  Served  with  salt  fish,  broiled 
or  fried. 

This  is  also  called  Maitre  d' Hotel  Butter. 

MINT  SAUCE 

i  bunch  of  mint  (ten  stalks)  4  tablespoon  fuls  of  vinegar 
i  large  tablespoonful  of  white  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

sugar  2  dashes  of  black  pepper 

Chop  the  mint  until  very  fine ;  then  mix  with  it  the  sugar ; 
add  salt  and  pepper,  and  rub  well,  adding  the  vinegar  little 
by  little.  Serve  with  roast  lamb. 

MUSHROOM  SAUCE 

Make  Brown  Sauce  No.  3,  and  add  to  it  one  pint  of  fresh 
or  canned  mushrooms  ;  if  the  first,  simmer  gently  for  fifteen 
minutes ;  if  the  latter,  only  five.  Take  from  the  fire,  and 
add  the  wine,  if  you  use  it. 

The  fat  must  be  very  brown  before  adding  the  flour, 
or  the  sauce  will  be  muddled. 

Serve  with  broiled  steak,  fillet,  veal  cutlets  and  other 
similar  dishes. 

OLIVE  SAUCE 

Make  Brown  Sauce  No.  i,  and  add  to  it  one  dozen  olives 
prepared  as  follows  :  With  a  sharp-pointed  knife  pare  around 
and  around  the  olive  as  you  would  an  apple,  keeping  close 
to  the  stone ;  throw  them  in  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes, 


230  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

then  drain,  and  add  them  to  the  sauce  ;  simmer  gently  for 
ten  minutes.  Serve  with  broiled  steak  or  roast  ducks. 

ONION   SAUCE 

Peel  one  dozen  small  onions,  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  cover 
with  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  half 
an  hour,  then  drain  and  press  through  a  fine  sieve.  Make 
a  White  Sauce,  add  the  onions  to  it,  let  it  boil  up  once, 
and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

This  is  nice  with  boiled  fowl. 

OYSTER    SAUCE 

Boil  twenty-five  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  for  one  minute, 
stirring  continually ;  drain,  put  the  liquor  back  on  the  fire; 
add  one  cup  of  cream  or  milk ;  rub  one  -tablespoon  ful  of 
butter  and  two  of  flour  to  a  smooth  paste,  and  stir  into  the 
boiling  liquor  until  it  thickens.  Chop  the  oysters  into 
dice,  add  them  to  the  sauce,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  take  from  the  fire.  This  will  curdle  if  boiled  after 
adding  the  oysters.  Serve  with  poultry  and  boiled  fish. 

PORT   WINE   SAUCE 

Make  the  same  as  Champagne  Sauce,  using  port  wine  in- 
stead of  champagne.  Serve  with  duck  or  game. 

ROBERT  SAUCE 

J£  pound  of  butter  i  ounce  of  flour 

3  small  onions  ^  pint  of  stock 

i  teaspoonful  of  tarragon         i  teaspoonful  of  sugar 

vinegar  i  teaspoonful  of  French 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste  mustard 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  melt ;  when  melted,  add 
the  flour;  mix,  and  add  the  onion,  chopped  fine.  Stir 
over  the  fire  until  the  whole  is  lightly  browned;  then  add 
the  stock  ;  stir  continually  until  it  boils.  Mix  the  vinegar, 
sugar  and  mustard  together  until  smooth;  then  stir  them 
into  the  sauce,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 


SAUCES  AND    GRAVIES  231 

SAUCE  PIQUANTE 

Make  Brown  Sauce  No.  i,  stand  it  over  boiling  water  to 
keep  hot  while  you  prepare  the  following :  Put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion,  one  gill  of  vinegar,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  capers,  and  (if  you  can  get  it)  one  tablespooonful 
of  powdered  tarragon  leaves,  in  a  small,  porcelain-lined 
saucepan,  and  simmer  for  five  minutes ;  add  to  it  the  brown 
sauce,  stir  continually  until  it  boils,  and  boil  five  minutes ; 
strain  and  use. 

SHRIMP    SAUCE 

Make  the  same  as  Lobster  Sauce,  adding  one  cup  of  chopped 
shrimps  instead  of  one  cup  of  lobster. 

SHAD-ROE  SAUCE 

Wash  two  shad  roes  well  in  cold  water.  Put  them  in  a 
small  saucepan,  add  one  teaspoon ful  of  salt,  cover  with 
boiling  water;  put  the  lid  on  the  saucepan,  and  simmer 
gently  for  fifteen  minutes.  Drain,  remove  the  outer  skin, 
and  mash  fine.  Make  a  White  Sauce,  add  the  roe  gradually 
to  it,  boil  up  once,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 
Serve  with  baked  shad. 

SUPREME  SAUCE 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter          i  tablespoonful  of  thick 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  cream 

parsley  ^  pint  of  chicken  stock 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  Yolks  of  two  eggs 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Melt  the  butter,  being  careful  not  to  brown  ;  add  the  flour ; 
mix  until  smooth  ;  then  add  the  stock  ;  stir  continually 
until  it  boils ;  add  the  cream.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  and 
it  is  ready  to  use. 

This  sauce  may  be  served  with  broiled  or  fried  chicken, 
or  chicken  cutlets. 


232  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

SAUCE    TARTARE 

YI  pint  of  mayonnaise  dressing 
3  olives 
i  gherkin 

i  tablespoonful  of  capers 

Chop  the  olives,  gherkin,  and  capers  very  fine,  add  them 
to  the  dressing,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  You  may  add  a 
half-teaspoonful  of  powdered  coriander  seed,  or  one  table- 
spoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar. 

Serve  with  smelts,  lobster  chops,  or  cold  meat  dishes. 

TOMATO  SAUCE 

i  pint  of  stewed  tomatoes         i  bay  leaf 
i  tablespoonful  of  butter  i  sprig  of  parsley 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  i  blade  of  mace 

i  small  onion  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  tomatoes  on  the  fire  with  the  onion,  bay  leaf, 
parsley,  and  mace,  and  simmer  slowly  for  ten  minutes. 
Melt  the  butter,  add  to  it  the  flour ;  mix  until  smooth. 
Press  the  tomatoes  through  a  sieve,  add  them  to  the  butter 
and  flour,  stir  continually  until  it  boils,  add  salt  and  pepper, 
and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

This  may  be  served  with  chops,  fillet,  or  broiled  steak. 

CREAM  TOMATO  SAUCE 

Make  a  Tomato  Sauce,  and,  when  ready  to  serve,  add  to  it 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream.  Do  not  boil  after 
adding  the  cream. 

WHITE    SAUCE 

Last,  but   not   least,  as  this   is   the  foundation  of  many 

others: — 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  ^  pint  of  white  stock 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Melt  the  butter,  but  do  not  brown ;  add  to  it  the  flour ; 

mix,  and  add  the  stock ;  stir  continually  until  it  boils  ;  add 

salt  and  pepper,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 


SALADS 


In  giving  recipes  for  salad  dressings,  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  give  exact  quantities,  especially  if  we  consider  the  great 
diversity  of  tastes.  Delmonico,  it  is  said,  used  only  one 
yolk  as  a  foundation  for  a  quart  of  oil,  with  salt  and  cay- 
enne as  seasoning.  For  fish,  meats,  and  some  vegetables, 
such  as  cauliflower,  tomatoes,  and  celery,  this  dressing 
(mayonnaise)  seems  appropriate  ;  but  the  simple  French 
dressing  for  lettuce,  served  as  a  salad  after  a  hearty  meal, 
is  best.  In  preparing  these  dressings,  use  a  silver  or  wooden 
fork,  a  large  soup  plate,  which  should  be  very,  very  cold, 
and  the  freshest  and  best  of  olive  oil,  cayenne  or  white 
pepper,  and  good  strong  vinegar  or  lemon  juice.  A  com- 
mon question  is,  "  What  can  we  use  in  the  place  of  oil  ?" 
Cream  and  melted  butter  may  be  used,  but  will  not  take 
the  place  of  the  oil.  The  Spanish  proverb  is  that  four 
persons  are  necessary  to  make  a  good  salad:  "A  spend- 
thrift, for  oil;  a  miser,  for  vinegar ;  a  barrister,  for  salt; 
and  a  madman,  to  stir  it  up." 

If  you  wish  to  preserve  the  crispness  and  flavor  of 
green  vegetables  for  salads,  throw  them  in  ice-water  for  an 
hour,  then  dry  carefully  on  a  soft  towel,  being  careful  not 
to  bruise  them,  and  then  put  in  a  cold  place  until  wanted. 
Never  mix  any  salad  with  the  dressing  until  you  are  ready 

(233) 


234  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

to  serve  it.  Use  the  coldest  of  dishes  to  serve  it  on,  and, 
if  garnished  properly,  it  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  and 
wholesome  dishes  on  the  table. 

MAYONNAISE   DRESSING 

Put  the  uncooked  yolks  of  two  eggs  into  a  clean,  cold 
soup-dish,  beat  them  well  with  a  silver  or  wooden  fork  about 
one  minute ;  then  add  a  half-teaspoonfnl  of  salt,  a  dash  of 
cayenne,  and,  if  you  like  it,  a  half-teaspoon ful  of  mustard. 
Work  these  well  together,  and  then  add,  drop  by  drop,  a 
half-pint  or  more  of  olive  oil.  You  must  stir  rapidly  and 
steadily  while  adding  the  oil.  Do  not  reverse  the  motion, 
or  it  may  curdle.  After  adding  one  gill  of  oil,  alternate 
occasionally  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  or  vinegar. 
The  more  oil  you  use,  the  thicker  the  dressing.  If  too 
thick,  add  a  half-tablespoon  ful  or  more  of  vinegar,  until  a 
proper  consistency.  More  *  or  less  oil  may  be  added,  ac- 
cording to  the  quantity  of  dressing  wanted.  \Vith  care  a 
quart  bottle  of  oil  may  be  stirred  into  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  alternating  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  or  vine- 
gar, after  adding  the  first  gill  of  oil.  It  is  easier,  however, 
to  start  with  three  yolks  when  making  a  quart  of  dressing. 
In  case  the  dressing  should  curdle,  /.  e.,  the  egg  and  oil 
separate,  which  makes  the  dressing  liquid,  begin  anew  at 
once  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  in  another  plate,  and  after 
stirring  them  well,  add  by  teaspoonfuls  the  curdled  mayon- 
naise, stirring  all  the  while,  and  then  finish  by  adding  more 
oil  as  directed. 

In  warm  weather,  it  will  take  only  one-half  the  time, 
if  you  put  the  dish  in  which  you  make  the  mayonnaise 
on  a  piece  of  ice,  or  in  a  pan  of  ice-water ;  the  oil  and 
eggs  should  also  be  cold. 

This  dressing,  if  covered  closely  in  a  jar  or  tumbler, 
will  keep  in  a  cold  place  one  week. 


SALADS  235 

It  also  may  be  varied  by  adding  plain  or  tarragon 
vinegar,  whipped  cream,  a  half-teaspoon ful  of  powdered 
coriander  seed,  chervil,  or  onion  juice. 

FRENCH    DRESSING 

I  tablespoonful  of  vinegar 
3  tablespoon fuls  of  olive  oil 
^  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 
%  teaspoon  ful  of  black  pepper 

Put  the  salt  and  pepper  in  a  bowl,  add  gradually  the  oil, 
rub  and  mix  until  the  salt  is  thoroughly  dissolved;  then 
add  by  degrees  the  vinegar,  stir  continually  for  one  minute, 
and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

Tarragon  vinegar  may  be  used  for  this  dressing  instead 
of  plain  vinegar. 

SALAD    DRESSING 

Yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs"    Yolk  of  one  raw  egg 
i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  i  gill  of  olive  oil 

YI  teaspoon  ful  of  salt  Dash  of  cayenne 

Mash  the  cooked  yolks  until  perfectly  smooth,  then  add 
the  raw  one,  and  work  with  an  elastic-bladed  knife  for  five 
minutes,  then  add  the  salt  and  cayenne,  mix  again,  and 
add  the  oil  drop  by  drop,  stirring  rapidly  and  steadily  all 
the  while;  then  add  the  vinegar  by  degrees,  and  it  is  fin- 
ished. 

More  oil  and  vinegar  may  be  added  to  this  if  a  greater 
quantity  of  dressing  is  required. 

SALAD   DRESSING   WITHOUT  OIL 

YO.  pint  of  milk  2  even  tablespoon  fuls  of  corn- 

Yolks  of  three  eggs  starch 

Butter  the  size  of  a  walnut    2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  saltspoonful  of  black  pepper 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil.     Moisten  the  corn  starch  with  a 


236  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

very  little  cold  milk,  add  to  the  boiling  milk,  and  stir  con- 
tinually until  it  boils  and  thickens;  then  add  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs  well  beaten,  cook  one  minute,  take  from  the  fire, 
add  the  salt,  pepper,  butter  and  vinegar,  stand  away  until 
cold,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

CREAM    SALAD    DRESSING 

Yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs 

1  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter 
Yolk  of  one  raw  egg 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  vinegar 
i  gill  of  thick  cream 

YO,  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

^  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper 

Mash  the  hard-boiled  yolks  until  fine,  then  add  the  raw  yolk 
and  work  with  an  elastic-bladed  knife  to  a  perfectly  smooth 
paste ;  then  add  the  salt,  pepper  and  melted  butter,  then  by 
degrees  the  cream,  working  and  stirring  all  the  while ;  now 
add  the  vinegar,  mix  well,  and  it  is  finished. 

CHICKEN    SALAD 

Draw,  singe,  and  boil  the  chicken  same  as  directed  for 
Chicken  Croquettes.  When  done,  and  perfectly  cold,  re- 
move the  skin  and  cut  the  meat  into  dice.  If  you  want  it 
very  nice,  use  only  the  white  meat,  save  the  dark  for  cro- 
quettes. After  you  have  cut  it,  stand  it  away  in  a  cold 
place  until  wanted.  Wash  and  cut  the  white  parts  of 
celery  into  pieces  about  a  half-inch  long,  throw  them  into  a 
bowl  of  cold  water  and  also  stand  them  away  until  wanted. 
To  every  pint  of  chicken  allow  two-thirds  of  a  pint  of 
celery,  and  a  cup  and  a  half  of  mayonnaise  dressing. 
When  ready  to  serve,  dry  the  celery  and  mix  with  the 
chicken,  dust  lightly  with  salt,  white  pepper  or  cayenne, 
then  mix  with  it  the  mayonnaise.  Serve  on  a  cold  dish 
garnished  with  the  white  celery  tips. 


SALADS  237 

One  cup  of  whipped  cream  may  be  added  to  every 
half-pint  of  mayonnaise,  when  ready  to  use  it.  It  makes 
the  dressing  lighter  with  less  of  the  oily  flavor. 

The  liquor  in  which  the  chicken  was  boiled  may  be 
used  for  soup. 

VEAL    SALAD 

Veal  salad  may  be  made  precisely  the  same  as  Chicken 
Salad,  using  cold  roast  or  boiled  veal  instead  of  chicken. 

MAYONNAISE  OF  SWEETBREADS 
Clean  and  parboil  one  pair  of  sweetbreads,  then  throw 
them  into  cold  water  for  a  half-hour.  Remove  the  fat  and 
skin,  and  cover  them  with  fresh  boiling  water;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes. 
When  done,  stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  cut  into* 
thin  slices.  Wash  and  dry  the  tender  leaves  from  one  head 
of  lettuce.  Rub  the  bottom  of  a  soup  dish  with  onion 
and  make  in  it  nearly  a  half-pint  of  mayonnaise.  Place  a 
thin  slice  of  onion  in  the  centre  of  your  salad  dish,  arrange 
the  lettuce  leaves  around  it ;  mix  the  sweetbreads  carefully 
with  the  mayonnaise,  and  put  in  the  centre  of  the  dish. 
Serve. 

This  is  a  delicious  salad,  and  if  prepared  as  directed 
will  have  only  the  faintest  suspicion  of  onion. 

Tarragon  vinegar  added  to  the  mayonnaise  is  a  great 
improvement. 

CRAB    SALAD 

1  dozen  crabs 

Y<2,  pint  of  mayonnaise  dressing 

2  heads  of  salad 

Boil  the  crabs  the  same  as  for  Deviled  Crabs.  When  cold, 
pick  out  the  meat,  and  put  it  away  until  wanted.  Wash 
and  dry  the  salad  carefully,  and  make  the  mayonnaise. 


238  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

When  ready  to  serve,  mix  the  crab  meat  and  the  mayon- 
naise together.  Garnish  the  dish  with  the  white  leaves  of 
the  salad,  place  the  crabs  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  and 
serve. 

Or,  the  salad  may  be  served  in  the  back  shell  of  the 
crabs,  garnished  with  the  tiny  salad  leaves. 

FISH    SALAD 

Cold  boiled  or  baked  fish  may  be  made  into  salad,  allow- 
ing one  head  of  lettuce  and  a  half-pint  of  mayonnaise  to 
every  pint  of  the  picked  fish. 

LOBSTER    SALAD 

2  lobsters  (weighing  four  or  five  pounds) 
The  tender  leaves  from  two  heads  of  lettuce 
y-2,  pint  of  mayonnaise 

Boil  the  lobsters  as  directed  for  Boiled  Lobster.  When 
cold,  take  out  the  meat,  being  careful  not  to  break  the 
body  or  tail  shells,  and  rejecting  the  stomach,  the  black 
vein  running  along  the  back  of  the  tail,  and  the  spongy 
fingers  on  the  outside  of  the  body.  Cut  the  meat  into  dice 
with  a  silver  knife,  and  stand  it  in  a  cold  place  until 
wanted.  Make  the  mayonnaise.  Clean  the  two  tail  shells, 
and  one  back,  in  cold  water,  and  with  scissors,  remove  the 
thin  shell  from  the  under  side  of  the  tail.  Wash  and  dry 
the  lettuce  leaves,  put  them  around  the  salad  dish  in  two  or 
three  layers.  Join  the  shells  together  in  the  form  of  a 
boat,  the  body  shell  in  the  centre,  place  them  in  the  salad 
dish.  Mix  the  mayonnaise  and  lobster  together,  put  it 
into  this  boat.  If  there  is  any  coral,  mash  it  fine  and 
sprinkle  it  over  the  whole.  Garnish  with  a  chain  of  the 
whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  slices  and  linked 
together.  Serve  immediately. 


SALADS  239 

SALAD  OF  OYSTER  CRABS 

i  pint  of  oyster  crabs 
y?  pint  of  mayonnaise 

i  head  of  lettuce 

Throw  the  oyster  crabs  into  boiling  salted  water  for  five 
minutes,  drain,  and  dry  very  carefully  on  a  soft  towel. 
When  ready  to  use,  mix  them  with  the  mayonnaise  and 
serve  on  the  crisp  lettuce  leaves. 

These  come  in  glass  jars  already  blanched ;    simply 
drain,  wipe  and  they  are  ready  to  use. 

OYSTER    SALAD 

Boil  twenty  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  five  minutes,  drain, 
wash  in  cold  water,  then  dry  and  stand  away  until  very 
cold.  When  cold,  mix  with  a  half-cup  of  mayonnaise,  and 
serve  on  crisp  salad  leaves. 

MAYONNAISE   OF  SALMON 

One  pint  of  cold  boiled  or  canned  salmon,  free  from  all 
bones  and  skin,  and  a  half-pint  of  mayonnaise,  may  be 
mixed  together  and  served  on  a  bed  of  crisp  salad  leaves. 

SHAD-ROE  SALAD 

Wash  one  set  of  shad  roes,  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  cover 
them  with  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  put  the 
lid  on  the  saucepan  and  simmer  gently  twenty  minutes. 
When  done,  lift  them  carefully  from  the  water  and  stand 
away  until  perfectly  cold.  Make  a  half-pint  of  mayonnaise 
and  stand  it  away  also.  When  ready  to  serve,  remove  the 
skin  from  the  outside  of  the  shad  roe  and  cut  them  into 
thin  slices.  Put  one  slice  of  onion  in  the  centre  of  the 
salad  dish,  arrange  around  it  crisp  salad  leaves,  heap  the 
shad  roe  in  the  centre,  pour  over  it  the  mayonnaise,  and  it 
is  ready  to  serve. 


240  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

SHRIMP  SALAD 

Boil  the  shrimps  as  in  recipe  for  Boiled  Shrimps,  and  when 
cold  remove  the  shells,  and  stand  away  until  very  cold. 
To  every  pint  of  the  boiled  shrimps  allow  nearly  a  half-pint 
of  mayonnaise.  When  ready  to  serve,  cut  the  shrimps  into 
small  pieces  with  a  silver  knife,  mix  them  with  the  mayon- 
naise, and  serve  on  crisp  salad  leaves. 

Dunbar's  or  White's  canned  shrimps  are  very  nice, 
and  may  be  used  for  salad.  After  removing  them  from  the 
can,  wash  them  in  cold  water,  dry  them  with  a  soft  towel, 
and  they  are  ready  to  use. 

Sardines  and  anchovies  may  also  be  made  into  salads. 

SALAD  OF  ASPARAGUS  TOPS 

i  pint  of  asparagus  tops 
The  rule  for  French  dressing 

Boil  the  tops  in  salted  boiling  water  for  fifteen  minutes, 
drain,  throw  into  cold  water,  and  let  stand  until  ready  to 
use.  Then  dry  carefully  with  a  soft  napkin,  put  them  into 
the  salad  dish,  pour  over  the  French  dressing ;  let  stand 
about  ten  minutes,  and  serve. 

BEET    SALAD 

Slice,  and  cut  into  dice,  sufficient  cold  boiled  beets  to 
make  one  pint ;  heap  them  in  the  centre  of  a  salad  dish  and 
cover  with  a  half-pint  of  sauce  Tartare.  Garnish  with  par- 
sley, and  serve  very  cold. 

SALAD  OF  STRING  BEANS 

Trim  one  pint  of  very  young  beans,  put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan, cover  with  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoon ful  of  salt  and 
boil  thirty  minutes.  When  done,  drain  and  throw  them 
into  cold  water  until  very  cold,  then  dry  them  with  a  soft 
towel,  cut  each  bean  in  four  pieces  lengthwise,  arrange 
them  neatly  on  a  salad-dish,  cover  them  with  French  dres- 
sing, let  stand  one  hour,  and  serve. 


SALADS  241 

CAULIFLOWER  SALAD 

i  medium-sized  head  of  cauliflower 
y2  Pmt  °f  mayonnaise 

Boil  the  cauliflower  as  directed,  throw  into  cold  water  until 
wanted,  then  pick  it  apart  carefully,  dry  with  a  soft  napkin, 
put  in  the  salad  dish,  pour  over  the  mayonnaise,  let  it  stand 
fifteen  minutes,  and  serve. 

CELERY  SALAD 

Cut  the  white  stalks  of  celery  into  pieces  a  half-inch  long. 
To  every  pint  of  these  pieces  allow  a  half-pint  of  mayon- 
naise dressing.  Dust  the  celery  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper, 
mix  it  with  the  dressing,  heap  it  on  a  cold  plate,  garnish 
with  white  tips  of  the  celery,  and  serve  immediately.  Do 
not  mix  the  celery  and  dressing  until  you  are  ready  to  use 
the  salad. 

COLD  SLAW 

1  quart  of  cut  cabbage  2  eggs 

y>  cup  of  cream  (sour  is  best)       i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  vinegar          A  little  pepper 

Butter  the  size  of  a  walnut 

Cut  the  cabbage  very  fine  and  put  it  in  an  earthen  bowl. 
Put  the  vinegar  on  to  boil.  Beat  the  eggs  until  light,  add 
to  them  the  cream  and  butter.  Now  add  to  these  the  boil- 
ing vinegar.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling  hot,  add  the 
salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  over  the  cabbage,  and  it  is  ready 
to  serve  when  very  cold. 

CUCUMBER    SALAD 

2  young  cucumbers        %  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper 
l/2  teaspoonful  of  salt        4  tablespoon  fuls  of  vinegar 

Pare  and  slice  the  cucumbers  very  thin,  soak  them  in  cold 
water  one  hour,  then  drain  and  dry.  Put  them  in  your 
salad  bowl,  sprinkle  them  with  the  salt  and  pepper,  and 
pour  over  the  vinegar.  Serve  immediately. 


242  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

EGG    SALAD 

Boil  six  eggs  fifteen  minutes;  while  they  are  boiling,  make 
a  French  dressing  and  add  to  it  one  tablespoon ful  of  tar- 
ragon vinegar,  one  tablespoon ful  of  onion  juice  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley.  When  the  eggs 
are  done  remove  the  shells,  cut  them  into  slices,  and 
arrange  them  on  a  salad  dish  so  that  one  overlaps  the  other ; 
pour  the  dressing  over  while  the  eggs  are  still  hot,  stand 
away  in  a  cold  place  for  one  or  two  hours,  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve. 

LETTUCE   SALAD 

Choose  the  crisp  centre  leaves  of  the  head  lettuce.  Wash 
them,  if  necessary,  and  dry  thoroughly  and  carefully  with 
a  soft  towel.  Break  or  tear  the  leaves  into  convenient 
pieces  with  a  silver  fork.  Cover  with  a  French  dressing,  turn 
the  whole  upside  down  to  mix  it  well,  and  serve  immediately. 

It  is  customary  in  this  country  to  serve  mayonnaise 
with  lettuce  salad,  but  after  one  has  had  a  heavy  dinner  the 
simple  French  dressing  is  more  refreshing. 

The  following  may  be  made  and  served  the  same  as 
lettuce  salad  : — 

Endive  Water-cress    Nasturtium  blossoms  Sorrel 

Peppergrass   Turnip  tops    Dandelions  Corn -salad 

MACEDOINE  SALAD 

1  boiled  beet  i  boiled  carrot 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  cooked          i  small  onion 

green  peas  i  root  of  celery 

i  dozen  boiled  string  beans      ^  pint  of  mayonnaise 
y<2,  cup  of  boiled  asparagus  tops  dressing 

Cut  the  beet,  beans,  carrot,  and  celery  into  small  pieces ; 
chop  the  onion  very  fine ;  mix  all  the  vegetables  carefully 
together,  then  add  the  mayonnaise,  and  serve  immediately. 
If  the  vegetables  are  properly  prepared,  this  makes  a 
delicious  salad. 


SALADS  243 

The  vegetables  may  be   purchased   in  bottles,  ready 
prepared,  from  the  grocer. 

POTATO    SALAD 

3  good-sized  potatoes  9  tablespoon fuls  of  olive  oil 
i  teaspoon  ml  of  salt              3  tablespoon  fuls  of  vinegar 
i  saltspoonful  of  black          i  good-sized  onion 

pepper  3  or  4  sprigs  of  parsley 

Pare  and  boil  the  potatoes.  While,  they  are  boiling,  pre- 
pare the  dressing.  Put  the  salt  and  pepper  into  a  bowl,  and 
add  gradually  the  oil ;  stir  until  the  salt  is  thoroughly  dis- 
solved ;  add  gradually  the  vinegar,  stirring  all  the  while. 
Chop  the  onion  very,  very  fine.  When  the  potatoes  are 
done,  cut  them  into  thin  slices,  mix  them  carefully  with  the 
onion,  then  add  the  dressing,  and  turn  them  upside  down 
without  breaking  the  potatoes.  Dish,  and  stand  away  in  a 
cold  place  for  one  or  two  hours.  Sprinkle  with  the  parsley 
chopped  very  fine.  The  dish  may  be  garnished  with  parsley 
and  pickled  beets  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 

TOMATO  SALAD 

6  tomatoes          ^  cup  of  mayonnaise  dressing 

The  crisp  part  of  one  head  of  lettuce 
Peel  the  tomatoes  without  scalding,  and  put  them  on  ice 
until  they  are  very,  very  cold.  Make  the  mayonnaise,  and 
stand  it  on  the  ice  until  wanted.  The  lettuce  may  also  be 
washed  and  dried.  When  ready  to  serve,  cut  the  tomatoes 
in  halves.  Make  twelve  little  nests  with  two  or  three  salad 
leaves  each,  arrange  uniformly  on  the  dish,  place  half  a 
tomato  in  each  nest,  put  a  tablespoonful  of  mayonnaise  on 
each  tomato,  and  serve  immediately. 

FRUIT  SALAD  DRESSING         No.  i 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar        i  gill  of  sherry 

Y<2,  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon  2  tablespoonfuls  of  Madeira 
Mix  the  sugar  and  cinnamon  together,  add  the  wine,  and 
stir  constantly  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved. 


244  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

FRUIT  SALAD  DRESSING         No.  2 
4  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 
i  gill  of  sherry 

1  tablespoonful  of  maraschino 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  champagne 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is 

dissolved. 

APPLE  SALAD 

6  apples 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar 
^  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

i  gill  of  sherry 

Pare,  core,  and  cut  the  apples  into  very  thin  slices.  Put  a 
layer  of  these  slices  in  the  bottom  of  a  glass  dish,  sprinkle 
them  with  the  sugar,  and  a  little  cinnamon,  then  another 
layer  of  apples,  and  so  continue  until  all  is  used.  Pour 
the  wine  over,  and  stand  away  in  a  cold  place  for  one  hour, 
and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

APRICOT  SALAD 

Pare,  cut  the  apricots  in  halves,  and  remove  the  stones. 
Arrange  the  halves  neatly  in  a  bowl,  with  the  stone  sides 
up;  then  pour  over  them  Fruit  Salad  Dressing,  No.  2,  stand 
in  a  cold  place  one  hour,  and  serve. 

BANANA  SALAD 

Peel  and  cut  six  bananas  into  thin  slices,  then  pour  over 
them  Fruit  Salad  Dressing,  No.  2,  stand  in  a  cold  place  one 
hour,  and  serve. 

ORANGE  SALAD 

Peel,  cut  six  oranges  into  slices  and  remove  the  seeds,  pour 
over  them  Fruit  Salad  Dressing,  No.  2,  stand  away  one  or 
two  hours,  and  serve. 

Mandarins  may  be  used  in  the  same  manner. 

PEACH  SALAD 
Made  precisely  the  same  as  Apricot  Salad. 


ADDITIONAL   RECIPES  245 


246  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


DINNER-GIVING    FOR   SENSIBLE 
PEOPLE 


Little  dinners,  pretty  and  enjoyable,  are,  to  my  mind,  the 
only  rational  way  of  entertaining.  If  people  in  ordi- 
nary circumstances  are  to  make  them  a  success,  they  must 
try  no  elaborate  dishes,  no  long  dinners  which  it  is  neces- 
sary to  get  some  one  in  to  cook ;  for  this  is  always  evident, 
and  makes  dinner-giving  both  a  burden  and  an  expense. 
If  little  dinners  are  to  be  successful,  they  must  bring 
neither,  otherwise  they  lapse  into  long  dinners,  too  often 
stupid,  with  the  hostess  too  wearied  to  be  bright,  after  a 
day  spent  in  a  hot  kitchen,  helping  her  incompetent  cook 
to  struggle  with  unaccustomed,  and  hence  difficult,  dishes. 
As  one  course  after  another  comes  on,  their  success  is  her 
chief  anxiety,  rather  than  the  entertainment  of  her  guests. 
Inexpressibly  better  a  simple  joint,  with  roast  potatoes,  and 
a  fresh,  bright  hostess,  whose  only  thought  is  the  intellectual 
entertainment  of  her  guests. 

The  elaborate  and  conventional  dinner,  complete  at 
all  points,  which  the  dinner-giving  of  a  century  and  a  half 
has  evolved,  is  beyond  any  but  the  very  wealthy.  Very 
few  of  them  succeed  in  giving  it,  and  still  fewer  of  their 

guests  enjoy  it,     Its  triple   triplets  of   oysters,  soup,  and 

(247) 


248  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

fish,  the  releve,  entrees,  and  roast,  a  pause  of  rum  punch 
to  stimulate  languishing  digestion,  game  with  salad,  sweets 
and  ice,  coffee  to  close,  and  a  bewildering  series  of  wines, 
with  an  alcoholic  appetizer  to  begin  and  end,  have,  how- 
ever, had  their  effect  in  making  many  feel  that  a  formal 
dinner  must  only  follow  this  model  from  afar.  So,  with 
only  the  resources  of  a  simple  household,  they  compass, 
with  infinite  labor,  oysters,  soup,  and  fish,  add  some  made 
dish  to  the  meat,  and  put  salad  before  and  ice  cream  after 
the  pudding  or  sweets.  But  success  here,  with  a  moderate 
income,  is  as  rare  as  success  with  the  long  dinner  at  the 
complete  table.  Try  to  grasp  the  theory  of  the  elaborate 
edifice  which  custom  and  convention  has  piled  up,  and  see 
if  your  own  resources  cannot  reproduce  its  purpose  with 
better  success.  After  having  carefully  analyzed  it,  you  will 
see  at  once  that  the  most  complex  dinner  simply  aims  to 
begin  with  something  of  easy  digestion,  slide  by  some  trans- 
ition to  the  roast,  and  make  sure  that  through  salad,  sweets 
and  coffee,  the  last  half  of  your  dinner  shall  interest  the 
appetite  as  well  as  satisfy  hunger.  You,  have,  therefore, 
soup,  roast,  dessert,  which  make  up  the  usual  dinner  of 
thoroughly  civilized  people,  and  below  you  will  see  how, 
with  but  moderate  resources,  you  may  so  vary  this  as  to 
make  a  "little  dinner"  complete  and  satisfying  in  itself; 
more,  the  most  elaborate  meal  at  Delmonico's  cannot  do. 

To  begin  with,  don't  have  too  many  people.  It  is  as 
bad  as  too  many  courses.  Until  years  of  experience  have 
taught  you  how  to  conduct  and  carry  on  the  conversation 
and  social  contact  of  eight  or  ten,  six  at  the  utmost  are 
enough  for  a  successful  dinner.  Get  together  around  an 
evening  dinner  table,  six  of  the  pleasantest  people  whom 
you  know  (including  yourself),  put  at  defiance  most  of  the 
traditions  for  a  dinner  party,  and  success  will  be  quite  sure 
to  be  the  result.  I  say  "  night,"  because  there  is  an  inde- 


DINNER-GIVING  249 

scribable  something  about  the  meal,  together  with  the  hour 
and  the  lights  and  all,  that  seems  to  make  people  talk  as 
they  never  talk  at  a  noon  dinner  or  at  a  tea. 

Have  only  what  your  cook  can  do  easily,  and,  above 
all  things,  never  try  anything  that  you  have  not  had  suffi- 
ciently often  when  you  are  by  yourselves  to  be  quite  sure 
she  can  do  it  well.  If  you  are  too  far  from  the  sea  for 
oysters  on  the  shell  to  be  quite  perfect,  or  even  if  you  are 
not,  begin  with  soup.  Follow  this,  perhaps,  with  cream 
macaroni.  It  is  more  easily  prepared  than  fish  in  any 
form,  and  almost  every  one  likes  it.  This  should  be  suc- 
ceeded by  the  usual  roast,  or  something  of  the  sort,  with 
which  serve  one  vegetable  only,  beside  rice  or  potatoes. 
Then,  of  course,  comes  a  salad,  and  after  that  some  sweet 
as  a  dessert.  East  India  preserved  ginger  is  one  of  the 
nicest  things  possible,  and  not  at  all  expensive,  as  a  jar  cost- 
ing $1.50  will  make  several  desserts.  Serve  with  it  some 
wafers  or  delicate,  thin  water-crackers,  and  be  sure  to 
serve  it  from  the  jar  in  which  it  comes,  standing  the  jar  on 
some  pretty  plate.  Lastly,  comes  black  coffee. 

S.  W.  R.  WILLIAMS. 

MENUS 

It  would,  indeed,  he  a  difficult  task  to  add  to  what  has 
already  been  given  in  modern  bills  of  fare,  but  the  few 
following  may  be  of  use  in  small  and  less  pretentious 
families: — 

BREAKFAST 

Oat  Meal  Mush  with  Whipped  Cream 

Broiled  Steak  Stewed  Potatoes 

Quick  Muffins 

Coffee 

Fruit 


250  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

BREAKFAST 

Fried  Indian  Mush,  Maple  Syrup 

Cecils  of  Cold  Meat  Saratoga  Potatoes 

Flannel  Cakes 

Cocoa 
Fruit  in  Season 

BREAKFAST  (SPRING) 

Small  Hominy  Boiled  in  Milk 

Lamb  Chops,  Broiled  Lyonnaise  Potatoes 

Gems  Coffee 

Orange  Salad 

BREAKFAST  (SPRING) 

Flannel  Cakes  Coffee 

Fried  Chicken,  Cream  Sauce 

Scalloped  Potatoes 
Salad  with  French  Dressing 

BREAKFAST  IN  LENT 

Oat  Meal  Mush  with  Whipped  Cream 

Broiled  Oysters  Beau  regard  Eggs 

Muffins 

Coffee  or  Chocolate 
Pomegranates 

BREAKFAST  (SUMMER) 
Strawberries  without  Stemming 

Broiled  Tomatoes,  Cream  Gravy         New  Potatoes,  Boiled 

Cheese  Ramakins 

Rolls 

Coffee 


DINNER-GIVING  251 

LUNCHEON 

Bouillon 
Orange  Sherbet  Served  in  Orange  Skins 

Fish  a  la  Reine  in  Paper  Cases 

Chicken  Croquettes  French  Peas 

Terrapin  with  Saratoga  Potatoes 

Boned  Chicken 

Wafers  Cheese 

Montrose  Pudding 

Black  Coffee 

LUNCHEON 

Roman  Punch  Served  in  Ice  Tumblers 
Sweetbreads  a  la  Creme  Served  in  Paper  Cases 

Partridges  on  Toast 

Salmon  Croquettes,  Sauce  Hollandaise 

Cheese     Ramakins 

Charlotte  Russe 

Black  Coffee 

DINNER  (SPRING) 

Julienne  Soup 
Oysters  a  la  Cr6me 

Roast  Lamb,  Mint  Sauce         Peas         New  Potatoes 

Lettuce,  French  Dressing 

Crackers  and  Cheese 

Black  Coffee 

DINNER  (SUMMER) 
Tomato  Soup  with  Crofttons 
Boiled  Sheep's  Head,  Sauce  Hollandaise 

Fillet  of  Beef  with  Mushroom  Sauce 
Potatoes         Peas         Corn  in  the  Husk 

Tomato  Salad 

Cheese  and  Wafers 

Strawberry  Bavarian  Cream 


252  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

DINNER  (AUTUMN) 

Puree  of  Beans 
Stuffed  Cabbage  with  Cream  Sauce 

Roast  Chicken,  Giblet  Sauce 

Mashed  Potatoes         Stewed  Tomatoes         Rice  Croquettes 
Celery  with  Mayonnaise 

Cheese  Fingers 

Wigwam  Pudding 

Black  Coffee 

DINNER    (WINTER) 
Oysters  on  the  Half  Shell 

Consomme 
Cream  Macaroni 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton,  Caper  Sauce         Currant  Jelly 
Mashed  Potatoes         Peas         Cauliflower 

Lettuce  with  French  Dressing 

Water  Crackers  Neufchatel 

Lemon  Sponge 

Black  Coffee 

SUPPER 
Fried  Chicken  Waffles 

Stuffed  Potatoes 
Sliced  Tomatoes  Sardines 

Fruit 
Iced  Tea 


EGGS 


To  ascertain  the  freshness  of  an  egg  without  breaking  it, 
hold  it  before  a  strong  light,  or  toward  the  sun,  and  if 
the  yolk  appears  round,  and  the  white  surrounding  it  clear, 
the  chances  are  it  is  good. 

Or,  put  them  in  a  bucket  of  water;  the  fresh  ones  will 
sink  immediately,  those  that  float  are  doubtful.  The  shell 
of  a  fresh  egg  looks  dull  and  porous. 

To  preserve  eggs,  it  is  only  necessary  to  close  the  pores 
of  the  shell.  This  may  be  done  by  varnishing,  or  by  dip- 
ping in  melted  suet,  and  then  packing  them  in  salt  with  the 
small  end  downward. 

Or,  make  a  lime  water  by  pouring  one  gallon  of  boiling 
water  over  one  pound  of  lime ;  when  cold  and  settled, 
pour  it  off  carefully  into  a  stone  jar  over  the  eggs,  which 
must  be  packed  with  the  small  ends  downward ;  keep  in  a 
cool,  dark  place.  I  have  used  this  recipe  myself  with  per- 
fect success,  the  eggs  being  fresh  and  sweet  at  the  end  of 
three  months. 

BAKED  EGGS 

6  eggs 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  finely-chopped  chicken 

2  mushrooms,  chopped  fine 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 

(353) 


254  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

y%  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace 

Dash  of  cayenne 

Salt  to  taste 

Boil  the  eggs  fifteen  minutes,  throw  them  into  cold  water, 
shell  them,  cut  them  into  halves  crosswise,  cut  a  little  slice 
from  the  bottom  to  make  them  stand.  Take  out  the  yolks, 
mash  them  fine,  add  to  them  all  the  other  ingredients,  mix 
thoroughly.  Fill  the  hollowed  whites  and  heap  up  in  a 
tiny  pyramid,  brush  over  with  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  and 
put  in  the  oven  to  brown  ;  while  they  are  browning,  broil 
a  slice  of  ham,  cut  it  into  as  many  squares  as  there  are  eggs. 
Make  a  Cream  Sauce  (see  recipe).  Serve  the  eggs  on  the 
squares  of  ham,  and  pour  the  cream  sauce  around  them. 

BEAUREGARD   EGGS 
5  eggs  -fa  pint  of  milk 

i  tablespoonful  of  corn  starch    Lump  of  butter,  size  of  a 
5  squares  of  toast  walnut 

Salt    nd  pepper  to  taste 

Cover  the  eggs  with  boiling  water  and  boil  for  twenty  min- 
utes. Take  off  their  shells,  chop  the  whites  fine  and  rub 
the  yolks  through  a  sieve.  Do  not  mix  them.  Now  put 
the  milk  on  to  boil,  rub  the  butter  and  corn  starch  together, 
and  add  to  the  boiling  milk.  Now  add  the  whites,  salt 
and  pepper.  Put  the  toast  on  a  hot  dish,  cover  it  with  a 
layer  of  this  white  sauce,  then  a  layer  of  the  yolks,  then 
the  remainder  of  the  whites,  and  then  the  remainder  of  the 
yolks.  Sprinkle  the  top  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  stand 
in  the  oven  for  a  minute  or  two,  and  serve.  This  is  good 
and  sightly. 

EGGS  a   la  BECHAMEL 

6  eggs  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour         i  gill  of  white  or  veal  stock 
gill  of  cream  Yolk  of  one  egg 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Boil  the  eggs  fifteen  minutes ;  while  they  are  boiling,  prepare 


EGGS  255 

the  sauce  as  follows  :  Melt  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  being 
careful  not  to  brown  it ;  add  to  it  the  flour,  mix  until 
smooth  ;  add  the  stock  and  cream,  and  stir  continually  until 
it  boils ;  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  stand  it  over  the  tea 
kettle  to  keep  warm  while  you  shell  the  eggs.  Cut  the 
whites  into  thin  shreds,  chop  the  yolks  into  tiny  squares, 
then  pile  them  in  the  centre  of  a  shallow,  heated  dish,  and 
arrange  the  whites  around  them.  Give  the  sauce  a  stir  and 
pour  it  around  the  eggs. 

BOILED   EGGS 

The  fresher  laid  the  eggs  are,  the  better.  Put  them  in 
boiling  water;  if  you  like  the  white  set,  about  two  min- 
utes' boiling  is  enough.  A  new-laid  egg  will  take  three 
minutes,  if  you  wish  the  yolk  set.  To  boil  hard,  for  salads 
or  made  dishes,  will  take  ten  minutes. 

EGGS    FOR    BREAKFAST 

6  eggs  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream 

i  slice  of  onion  i  bay  leaf 

6  mushrooms  ^  pint  of  white  stock 

Boil  the  eggs  for  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  the  shells,  take 
out  the  yolks,  being  careful  not  to  break  them ;  cut  the 
whites  and  the  mushrooms  into  dice.  Put  the  butter  on  to 
melt,  add  the  flour,  mix  until  smooth;  add  the  stock  and 
cream,  stir  continually  until  it  boils  ;  add  the  salt  and  pep- 
per, the  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  the  mushrooms,  stir  over 
the  fire  until  it  comes  again  to  a  boil,  throw  in  the  yolks 
and  let  it  stand  over  the  tea  kettle  for  one  or  two  minutes 
until  the  yolks  are  heated.  Serve  in  a  small  shallow  dish. 

EGGS    a  la  CREME 

6  eggs  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  y?  pint  of  milk 

y<2  teaspoonful  of  salt  Pepper  to  taste 


256  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Boil  the  eggs  fifteen  minutes,  remove  the  shells,  and  cut 
them  in  halves  crosswise.  Slice  a  little  bit  off  the  bottom 
to  make  them  stand.  Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to 
melt,  then  add  the  flour,  mix  until  smooth,  add  the  milk 
and  stir  continually  until  it  boils,  add  the  salt  and  pepper. 
Stand  the  eggs  on  a  heated  platter,  pour  the  sauce  over  and 
around  them.  Serve  very  hot. 

DEVILED    EGGS 

12  eggs 

1  large  teaspoon ful  of  French  mustard 

2  heaping  tablespoon  mis  of  cold  boiled  ham  or  tongue 
i  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Cover  the  eggs  with  warm  water,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes, 
then  throw  them  into  cold  water  for  half  an  hour;  this  pre- 
vents the  whites  from  turning  dark.  Remove  the  shells, 
and  cut  the  eggs  in  halves  lengthwise.  Take  out  the  yolks 
carefully  without  breaking  the  whites.  Rub  the  yolks  to  a 
smooth  paste  with  the  mustard  and  oil,  then  add  the  ham 
or  tongue  finely  chopped,  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  mix 
thoroughly.  Fill  the  hollowed  whites  with  this  mixture, 
and  serve  on  a  bed  of  water-cress  or  salad. 

For  picnics  or  garden  parties,  put  the  two  correspond- 
ing halves  together  and  press  them  closely.  Cut  white 
tissue  paper  into  pieces  six  inches  square,  fringe  the  opposite 
sides,  roll  one  egg  in  each  paper,  twist  the  fringed  ends 
same  as  the  candied  secrets.  Serve  on  a  napkin,  in  a  pretty 
little  basket,  garnished  with  smilax  or  myrtle. 

EGGS    FONDUE 
6  eggs 

2  heaping  tablespoon fuls  of  Parmesan 
%  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  dash  of  cayenne 
Beat  the  eggs  with  a  fork  until  light,  add  the  salt,  pepper 


EGGS  257 

and  Parmesan.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan  ;  when  hot,  turn  in  the  eggs,  and  stir  until  thoroughly 
cooked  and  smooth.  Serve  on  squares  of  buttered  toast. 

FRIED    EGGS 

Cut  a  nice  piece  of  bacon  into  squares,  put  these  in  a  frying- 
pan,  and  set  over  a  gentle  fire,  that  they  may  lose  their 
fat.  When  as  much  as  will  freely  come  out  is  melted  from 
them,  lay  them  on  a  warm  dish.  Break  the  eggs  gently 
into  a  saucer,  and  then  slide  them  into  the  fat.  Fry  gently 
until  the  yolk  is  set.  Take  out  with  a  slice,  place  on  the 
warm  dish,  and  garnish  with  the  bacon. 

EGGS   IN    MARINADE 

6  eggs  24  whole  cloves 

i  pint  of  vinegar  ^  teaspoonful  of  ground 

YZ  teaspoonful  of  salt  mustard 

1/2  teaspoonful  of  pepper 

Boil  the  eggs  fifteen  minutes.  Take  off  the  shells  and  stick 
four  cloves  into  each  egg.  Put  the  vinegar  on  to  boil. 
Pvub  the  mustard,  salt,  and  pepper  with  a  little  cold  vine- 
gar, to  a  smooth  paste,  and  add  to  the  vinegar  when  boiling. 
Stir  over  the  fire  one  minute.  Put  the  eggs  in  a  glass  fruit 
jar,  pour  over  them  the  boiling  vinegar,  cover,  and  let 
stand  two  weeks. 

These  are  nice  to  serve  as  an  accompaniment  to  broiled 
steak. 

EGGS  sur  le  PLAT 

Butter  the  bottom  of  little  egg  basins  or  one  large  tin  dish. 
Break  one  egg  into  each  of  the  basins,  being  careful  not  to 
break  the  yolk,  or  six  eggs  may  be  broken  in  the  large  dish. 
Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
until  the  yolks  are  set.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they  are 
cooked. 


258  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

POACHED    EGGS 

Strictly  fresh  eggs  only  are  fit  to  poach.  The  beauty  of  a 
poached  egg  is  for  the  yolk  to  be  seen  blushing  through  the 
white,  which  should  be  just  sufficiently  hardened  to  form  a 
veil  for  the  yolk.  Have  some  fresh  boiling  water  in  a  stew- 
pan,  break  the  egg  into  a  saucer,  remove  the  parr  from  the 
fire  and  gently  slip  the  egg  into  it.  Now  break  another,  and 
so  on  until  the  bottom  of  the  pan  is  covered.  Now  put  it 
over  a  moderate  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  water  boils  the  eggs 
are  ready  ;  take  them  up  with  a  slice,  and  neatly  round  off 
the  ragged  edges  of  the  whites.  Serve  on  buttered  toast. 

SCRAMBLED  EGGS 

Break  six  eggs  in  a  bowl  and  beat  them  gently  until  all  the 
yolks  are  broken.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  wal- 
nut in  a  frying-pan  and  put  over  the  fire  to  melt ;  as  soon 
as  it  is  hot,  turn  in  the  eggs  and  stir  continually  until  they 
are  set.  Serve  immediately. 

STUFFED  EGGS 

6  eggs  i  tablespoon ful  of  melted 

i  tablespoonful  of  tongue  butter 

or  ham  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Boil  the  eggs  fifteen  minutes.  Cut  them  in  halves  length- 
wise, take  out  the  yolks  carefully,  mash  them  fine,  add  the 
butter,  the  tongue  or  ham  finely  chopped,  salt  and  pepper. 
Rub  together  until  smooth.  Fill  the  hollowed  whites  with 
this,  and  press  the  corresponding  halves  together.  Dip 
them  first  in  egg,  then  in  bread  crumbs,  then  again  in  egg 
and  again  in  bread  crumbs.  Fry  in  boiling  fat.  Serve 
hot  with  Cream  Sauce  poured  around  them.  These  are 
delicious  but  are  difficult  to  make. 

PLAIN   OMELET 

Put  three  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  give  them  twelve  good 
vigorous  beats  with  a  fork.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  walnut  in  a  very  smooth  frying-pan,  shake  it  over  the 


EGGS  259 

fire  until  melted,  but  not  brown,  turn  in  the  eggs  and  shake 
over  a  quick  fire  until  they  are  set ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  roll  and  turn  out  on  a  hot  dish.  It  is  much  easier 
to  make  several  small  omelets  than  one  large  one. 

BENGAL   OMELET 
6  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  of  Spanish  onion,  chopped  fine 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 

Beat  the  eggs  until  thoroughly  mixed,  add  the  onion  and 
parsley,  and  make  the  same  as  a  plain  omelet ;  dust  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

HAM  OMELET 

Make  the  same  as  Plain  Omelet,  and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to 
thicken,  sprinkle  over  it  three  tablespoonfuls  of  .finely- 
chopped  ham  ;  roll,  and  serve. 

Cheese,  Parsley,  Jelly  and  Chicken  Omelets  are  made 
in  the  same  manner. 

POTATO  OMELET 

Two  boiled  potatoes,  chopped  fine.  Put  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter  in  a  frying-pan ;  and,  when  very  hot,  add  the 
potatoes.  Shake  over  the  fire  until  a  nice  brown ;  then 
sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper.  Stand 
them  where  they  will  keep  warm  until  you  make  a  plain 
omelet.  When  the  omelet  is  partly  set,  spread  over  the 
potatoes,  roll,  and  serve. 

BREAD   OMELET 

3  eggs  y<z  cup  of  bread  crumbs 

%  teaspoon ful  of  salt       j^  cup  of  milk 

i  dash  of  black  pepper  Piece  of  butter,  size  of  walnut 
Beat  the  eggs  separately.  Add  to  the  yolks  the  milk,  salt, 
pepper,  and  the  bread  crumbs.  Now  stir  into  this  care- 
fully the  beaten  whites  ;  mix  very  lightly.  Put  the  butter 
in  a  very  smooth  frying-pan  ;  as  soon  as  hot,  turn  in  the 
mixture  gently,  and  set  it  over  a  clear  fire,  being  very  care- 


260  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

ful  not  to  burn ;  shake  occasionally,  to  see  that  the  omelet 
does  not  stick,  the  same  as  Plain  Omelet.  Now  stand 
your  frying-pan  in  the  oven  for  a  moment  to  set  the  middle 
of  the  omelet.  When  done,  toss  it  over  on  a  warm  platter 
to  bring  the  brown  side  of  the  omelet  uppermost ;  or,  it 
may  be  folded  in  half,  and  then  turned  out  in  the  centre 
of  the  platter.  Serve  immediately,  or  it  will  fall. 

SPANISH    OMELET 

6  eggs  3  tablespoon fuls  of  milk 

i  medium-sized  tomato        5  mushrooms 
i  small  onion  %  pound  of  bacon 

i  dash  of  black  pepper  j£  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 
Cut  the  bacon  into  very  small  pieces  and  fry  it  until  brown  ; 
then  add  to  it  the  tomato,  onion,  and  mushrooms  chopped 
fine ;  stir  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Break  the  eggs  in 
a  bowl,  and  give  them  twelve  vigorous  beats  with  a  fork ; 
add  to  them  the  salt  and  pepper.  Now  put  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  a  walnut  in  a  smooth  frying-pan,  turn  it 
around  so  as  to  grease  the  bottom  and  sides.  When  the 
butter  is  hot,  pour  in  the  eggs  and  shake  over  a  quick  fire 
until  they  are  set.  Now  quickly  pour  the  mixture  from 
the  other  frying-pan  over  the  omelet,  fold  it  over  once, 
and  turn  it  out  in  the  centre  of  a  heated  platter,  and  serve 

immediately. 

OMELETTE     SOUFFLEE 

Whites  of  six  eggs  Yolks  of  three  eggs 
Juice  of  half  a  lemon  3  tablespoon  fuls  powdered  sugar 
First  grease  a  quart  baking-dish  with  butter,  and  then  see 
that  the  oven  is  hot.  Now  beat  the  whites  to  a  very  stiff 
froth,  beat  the  yolks,  add  them  to  the  whites,  then  the  sugar 
and  juice  of  lemon ;  stir  carefully,  and  quickly  heap  into  the 
baking-dish  ;  dredge  with  powdered  sugar  and  put  into  the 
oven.  Bake  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  a  golden  brown,  and 
serve  immediately.  It  may  also  be  baked  in  paper  cases. 


VEGETABLES 


All  green  vegetables  should  be  freshly  gathered,  washed 
well  in  cold  water,  and  cooked  in  freshly-boiled  water  until 
tender,  no  longer.  After  water  has  boiled  for  a  time  it  parts 
with  its  gases  and  becomes  hard,  and  most  vegetables  are 
better  cooked  in  soft  water.  It  is  a  well-known  fact  that 
split  peas,  dried  beans  and  lentils  do  not  boil  soft  in  hard 
water.  The  salts  of  lime,  sulphate  or  gypsum  coagulate 
the  casein  which  these  seeds  contain.  In  some  cases,  how- 
ever, the  solvent  power  of  pure,  soft  water  is  so  great  that 
it  destroys  the  firmness,  color  and  outside  covering  (skin) 
of  the  green  vegetables,  and  allows  their  juices  to  pass  out 
into  the  water.  This  is  especially  true  of  green  peas  and 
beans.  In  these  cases,  therefore,  hard  water  is  better  than 
soft.  A  teaspoonful  of  common  salt  added  to  every  gallon 
of  water  hardens  it  at  once.  A  half-teaspoonful  of  bi-car- 
bonate  of  soda  to  every  gallon  of  water  renders  it  soft. 
French  books  recommend  the  same  quantity  of  carbonate 
of  ammonia  for  the  latter  purpose. 

Young,  green  vegetables  should  be  cooked  in  boiling 
salted  water.  Onions,  if  boiled  in  pure,  soft  water,  are 
almost  tasteless,  and  all  the  after-salting  cannot  restore  to 
them  the  sweet  saline  taste  and  the  strong  aroma  which 
they  possess  when  boiled  in  hard  water  (salted). 


262  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

If  green  vegetables  are  wilted,  soak  them  for  an  hour 
or  two  in  clear,  cold  water ;  never  add  salt,  as  it  hardens 
the  tissues. 

Peas,  beans  and  lentils  are  the  most  nutritious  of  all 
vegetable  substances.  They  are  said  to  contain  as  much 
carbon  (heat -giving  food)  as  wheat,  and  almost  double  the 
amount  of  nitrogen  (muscle-forming  food).  The  nitro- 
genous element  of  these  vegetables  consists  chiefly  of  veg- 
etable casein. 

Lentils  afford  the  most  concentrated  form  of  vegetable 
diet,  and  in  olden  times  their  nutritious  value  was  fully 
appreciated.  Esau  sold  his  birthright  for  a  mess  of  red 
lentil  pottage.  We  read  that  the  Pyramids  were  built  by 
men  who  lived  on  lentils,  garlic  and  water.  A  dish  served 
to  persons  of  distinction  in  the  time  of  Pharaoh  was  com- 
posed of  lentils,  and  with  this  high  reputation  they  are 
almost  unknown  in  this  country,  except  to  the  Germans, 
who  use  them  for  soup,  which,  though  made  entirely  with- 
out meat,  is  most  nutritious. 

The  potato,  next  to  wheat,  is  the  most  important  food 
derived  from  the  vegetable  kingdom.  We  may  class  it 
among  the  starch  vegetables.  It  contains  but  little  muscle- 
forming  food,  and  therefore  should  be  eaten  with  lean  meats 
or  other  nitrogenous  food,  supplying  the  elements  wanting 
in  that  food,  and  correcting  the  influence  of  a  too-concen- 
trated form  of  nutriment.  Potatoes  are  three-fourths  water ; 
the  remaining  one-fourth  contains  a  large  proportion  of 
starch,  with  a  small  quantity  of  albumen,  casein  and  gluten, 
dissolved  in  its  juices. 

In  the  spring  the  sprouts  begin  to  grow  at  the  expense 
of  the  starch  in  the  potato;  therefore,  at  this  season  they  are 
less  mealy  and  nutritious.  The  sprouts  should  be  rubbed 
off  as  soon  as  they  appear,  or  they  will  exhaust  the  starch. 
When  they  are  wilted  in  this  way  they  are  improved  by 


VEGETABLES  263 

being  soaked  in  cold  water  several  hours  before  cooking, 
and  put  on  to  boil  in  cold  water. 

The  cooking  of  potatoes  is  indeed  an  art ;  they  are 
dressed  in  some  way  in  almost  every  family  every  day,  and 
no  vegetable  is  so  often  poorly  served.  Observe  the  fol- 
lowing rules  and  you  will  have  no  trouble : 

1.  Be  careful  in  the  choice  of  your  potatoes;  choose 
those  of  medium  size,  free  from  blemishes  and  of  a  yellow- 
ish-white color ;    and,  if  possible,  acquaint   yourself  with 
the  soil   in  which    they  were  raised — those   from  a  rich, 
heavy  soil  being  fnore  nutritious. 

2.  As  the  nutritious  part  of  the  potato  lies  near  the 
skin,  if  you  pare  at  all,  do  it  very  sparingly.     As  it  con- 
tains potash,  a   constituent   part   of   the  blood,  which  is 
soluble  in  water,  we  would  advise  boiling  in  the  jacket. 

3.  If  your  potatoes  are  not  wilted,  put  them  on  to  boil 
with  just  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  them,  place  over  a 
moderate  fire  to  boil  slowly  until  nearly  done,  then  throw  in 
a  half-cup  of  cold  water,  which  will  chill  the  surface  ;  by  this 
you  render  the  potato  mealy  throughout.     Cook  until  soft 
enough  to  admit  a  fork. 

4.  When  done,  drain  off  every  drop  of  water,  uncover 
the  saucepan,  sprinkle  the  potatoes  with  salt,  to  absorb  the 
moisture,  and  stand  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove  to  dry, 
shaking  them  over,  now  and  then,  to  expose  every  side  of 
the  potato  to  the  air.     Remove  the  skins  quickly. 

5.  Serve  in  an  uncovered  dish. 

Potatoes  are  more  wholesome  baked  than  boiled. 

Cabbage-leaves  are  rich  in  gluten,  therefore  very  nu- 
tritious. The  mushroom,  also,  is  said  to  contain  56  per 
cent,  of  gluten,  and  dried  cauliflower  contains  more  than 
either. 

Turnips,  carrots,  parsnips,  and  beets  contain  very  little 


264  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

nourishment,  but  for  this  reason  are  valuable  adjuncts  to 
concentrated  food,  and  produce  the  necessary  waste  for 
proper  intestinal  action. 

FRENCH    ARTICHOKES 

French  artichokes  have  a  large,  scaly  head,  like  the  cone  of 
a  pine  tree. 

Strip  off  the  coarse  outer  leaves,  cut  the  stalks  off  about 
an  inch  from  the  bottom,  wash  well  in  cold  water,  then 
throw  them  in  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
boil  slowly  until  the  outer  leaves  are  tender ;  then  take 
from  the  fire,  put  them  upside  down  on  a  plate  to  drain. 
Arrange  in  a  circle  upon  a  hot  dish,  the  tops  up,  pour  over 
them  Bechamel  or  sauce  Hollandaise,  and  serve. 

JERUSALEM    ARTICHOKES 

Wash  and  scrape  the  artichokes,  throw  them  into  cold 
water,  and  soak  two  hours,  then  cover  them  with  boiling 
water,  and  boil  until  tender ;  watch  closely,  or  they  will 
harden  again.  Serve  with  Cream  Sauce. 

PICKLED  JERUSALEM    ARTICHOKES 

Boil  the  artichokes  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe,  drain 
and  put  them  in  a  stone  jar.  To  every  quart  of  artichokes 
allow  one  pint  of  cider  vinegar,  one  bay  leaf,  one  slice  of 
onion,  four  whole  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace.  Put  the 
vinegar  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle  with  all  the  other  ingre- 
dients, stand  it  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  bring  slowly  to 
boiling  point,  then  pour  it  over  the  artichokes,  and  stand 
away  to  cool. 

They  will  be  ready  to  use  in  twenty-four  hours,  and 
will  keep  two  weeks. 


VEGETABLES  265 

BOILED   ASPARAGUS 

Wash  the  asparagus  carefully  in  cold  water,  and  cut  off  the 
tough  white  ends.  Scrape  the  white  part  which  remains, 
and  throw  into  cold  water  to  soak  for  thirty  minutes.  Now 
tie  it  in  small  bundles,  and  put  it  into  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  boil  ten  minutes  longer.  While  the  asparagus 
is  boiling,  toast  squares  of  bread,  cutting  off  the  crust ;  but- 
ter while  hot,  and  lay  on  a  heated  platter.  Take  up  the  as- 
paragus, drain,  cut  the  strings,  and  heap  it  on  the  toast,  the 
heads  all  one  way.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  to  melt, 
add  to  it  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  ;  mix  until  smooth  ; 
now  add  a  half-pint  of  the  water  in  which  the  asparagus 
was  boiled,  stir  continually  until  it  boils,  season  it  with  salt 
and  black  pepper  to  taste,  pour  it  over  the  asparagusj  and 
serve. 

STEWED  ASPARAGUS 

Wash  the  asparagus  well  in  cold  water,  then  cut  it  in  pieces 
about  an  inch  long,  rejecting  all  the  tougher  parts.  Put  it 
in  a  kettle,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  boil  thirty  min- 
utes ;  then  put  it  in  a  colander  to  drain.  Now  put  it  in  a 
saucepan,  pour  over  it  a  half-pint  of  cream,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  salt  and  black  pepper ;  let  it  boil  up 
once,  and  serve. 

ASPARAGUS  IN    AMBUSH 

i  quart  of  asparagus  tops  i  pint  of  milk 

9  stale  breakfast  rolls  4  eggs 

i  large  tablespoonful  of  butter 
Salt  and  black  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  asparagus  tops,  boil  fifteen  minutes,  and  drain 
them  in  a  colander.  Cut  the  tops  off  the  rolls,  and  take 
out  the  crumb,  then  set  them  open  in  the  oven  to  dry,  lay- 
ing each  top  by  the  roll  from  which  it  was  taken.  Put  the 


266  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  eggs  until 
light,  then  stir  them  in  the  boiling  milk,  and  stir  until  it  be- 
gins to  thicken  ;  add  the  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  take 
from  the  fire.  Chop  the  asparagus  tops,  then  add  them  to 
the  milk.  Take  the  rolls  from  the  oven,  fill  them  with  this 
mixture,  put  on  the  tops,  and  serve  hot.  Good. 

LIMA   BEANS 

Cover  the  beans  with  freshly-boiled  soft  water,  and  boil 
thirty  minutes;  drain,  add  salt,  pepper,  and  butter,  or  a 
half-cup  of  boiling  cream. 

A  sprig  of  mint  may  be  boiled  with  the  beans,  and 
removed  befqre  serving. 

LIMA    BEANS     (DRIED) 

Soak  one  pint  of  beans  in  warm  water  over  night.  In  the 
morning  drain  off  this  water,  and  cover  with  fresh  warm 
water.  Two  hours  before  dinner-time,  drain  again,  cover 
them  with  boiling  soft  water,  and  boil  thirty  minutes  ;  drain 
again ;  cover  with  fresh  boiling  soft  water,  and  boil  until 
tender.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  after  they  have  been 
boiling  an  hour.  When  done,  drain  them,  dredge  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour ;  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a 
half-pint  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ;  or,  they  may  be 
served  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper. 

All   shelled  beans,   such   as   butter,  kidney,  and   the 
small  French  beans,  are  cooked  the  same  as  lima  beans. 

STRING   BEANS 

Break  the  blossom  end  of  the  bean,  and  pull  it  back  to 
remove  the  string.  Then  pare  a  thin  strip  from  the  other 
edge  of  the  pod.  In  this  way  only  are  you  sure  that  every 
string  is  removed.  Cut  the  beans  into  pieces  an  inch  long, 
and  lay  them  in  clear,  cold  water  for  thirty  minutes.  Drain 


VEGETABLES  267 

them,  put  into  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and 
boil  one  hour.  Drain  ;  stir  into  them  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter ;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

A  half-pound  of  ham  may  be  cut  into" pieces  and  boiled 
with  the  beans  to  give  them  flavor. 

BEAN    POLENTA 

i  pint  of  small  white  soup  beans 
\y2  tablespoon fuls  of  molasses 
y2  teaspoon ful  of  French  mustard 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  beans,  and  soak  them  over  night  in  lukewarm 
water.  In  the  morning,  drain  off  this  water,  cover  with 
fresh,  cold  water,  bring  slowly  to  a  boil,  and  boil  slowly 
one  hour ;  drain  again,  cover  with  one  quart  of  fresh 
boiling  water,  and  boil  slowly  another  hour.  When  done, 
press  through  a  colander,  return  to  the  kettle,  add  the  but- 
ter, molasses,  mustard,  salt,  pepper,  and  vinegar ;  stir,  and 
boil  ten  minutes.  Serve  in  a  vegetable  tureen. 

BEAN    CROQUETTES 

i  pint  of  white  soup  beans     i  tablespoonful  of  molasses 
i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar      i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Boil  the  beans  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe.  When 
done,  drain,  and  press  the  beans  through  a  colander,  then 
add  the  other  ingredients,  mix  well  and  stand  away  to  cool. 
When  cold,  form  into  small  balls,  dip  first  in  egg  and  then 
in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat. 

PUREE  OF  BEANS 

i  quart  of  dried  beans  i  pound  of  ham 

i  bay  leaf  i  onion 

i  carrot  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 


268  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Wash  and  soak  the  beans  in  lukewarm  water  over  night. 
In  the  morning,  drain,  cover  with  fresh  cold  water,  boil  one 
hour,  drain  again,  and  just  cover  again  with  fresh  boil- 
ing water,  add  a  quarter-teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of 
soda,  the  ham,  bay  leaf,  onion  and  carrot;  boil  until  they 
will  mash  easily  under  light  pressure.  When  done,  remove 
the  ham  and  press  the  beans  through  a  colander.  Return 
them  to  the  kettle,  add  the  butter  and  sufficient  cream  to 
make  the  puree  the  desired  thickness.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  let  boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

Purees  of  dried  peas,  lentils  and  split  peas  are  made 
the  same  as  puree  of  dried  beans. 

BOILED    BEETS 

Wash  carefully,  but  do  not  cut  or  scrape  them.  If  the 
skin  is  broken  before  cooking,  they  lose  their  flavor  and 
color  in  the  boiling  water.  Young  beets  will  cook  tender 
in  one  hour.  Old  ones  will  require  four  hours.  If  very 
tough  and  wilted  they  will  never  become  tender.  When 
done,  throw  them  into  a  pan  of  cold  water  and  quickly 
rub  off  the  skins.  Cut  them  in  slices,  pour  over  them  a 
tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  they  are  ready  to  serve. 

The  cold  ones  left  over  may  be  covered  with  cold  vine- 
gar and  used  as  pickles. 

BROCCOLI 

Pick  off  the  leaves  and  cut  the  stalk  close  to  the  bottom  of 
the  bunch.  Lay  in  cold  water  half  an  hour.  Tie  it  in  a 
cheese-cloth  to  prevent  breaking;  put  into  a  kettle  of  salted 
boiling  water,  and  boil  rapidly  twenty  minutes.  Take  it 
out  carefully,  untie  the  cheese-cloth,  lay  the  broccoli  in  a 
hot  dish,  pour  over  it  a  half-pint  of  Cream  Sauce,  and  it  is 
ready  to  serve. 


VEGETABLES  269 

BRUSSELS    SPROUTS 

i  quart  of  sprouts  i  tablespoonful  of  salt 

YV  gallon  of  water 

Pick  off  all  the  dead  leaves  from  the  sprouts,  wash  them  in 
cold  water,  then  put  them  into  the  water,  which  must 
be  boiling,  add  the  salt  and  a  quarter-teaspoon  ful  of 
bicarbonate  of  soda.  Boil  rapidly,  with  the  saucepan  un- 
covered, twenty  minutes,  then  drain  in  a  colander,  and 
serve  in  a  heated  dish  with  a  sauceboat  of  Drawn  Butter. 

BOILED    CABBAGE 

Select  a  heavy  white  head.  Remove  the  outside  leaves, 
cut  in  quarters  and  soak  in  cold  water  one  hour,  then  drain 
and  cover  with  boiling  water,  let  stand  fifteen  minutes; 
drain  again,  and  press  out  all  the  water.  Now  put  the 
cabbage  in  a  kettle  nearly  filled  with  boiling  water ;  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  small  piece  of  a  Chili  pepper; 
cover  and  boil  one  hour,  if  the  cabbage  is  young ;  two  hours, 
if  old.  The  Chili  pepper  is  supposed  to  diminish  the  un- 
pleasant odor. 

CORNED  BEEF  AND  CABBAGE 

Wash  the  meat  in  cold  water.  Put  it  in  a  large  kettle  and 
cover  with  cold  water.  Simmer  gently  for  two  hours.  In 
the  meantime,  remove  the  outside  leaves  from  a  hard  white 
head  of  cabbage,  cut  it  in  quarters  and  soak  in  cold  water 
one  hour.  After  the  meat  has  been  simmering  two  hours, 
add  the  cabbage,  and  simmer  one  and  a  half  hours  longer. 
When  done,  put  the  meat  in  the  centre  of  a  large  dish  with 
the  cabbage  around  it.  Serve  with  it  tomato  catsup,  mus- 
tard or  horseradish. 

STEWED   CABBAGE 

Cut  a  small  head  of  cabbage  in  halves,  soak  in  cold  water 
one  hour,  then  drain  and  shake  dry.  Remove  the  stalk  or 


270  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

hard  part,  and  chop  the  remainder  very  fine.  Put  it  in  a 
stewing-pan  with  boiling  water  enough  to  cover,  and  boil 
twenty  minutes.  Drain  in  a  colander.  Turn  into  a  heated 
dish,  and  pour  over  it  Cream  Sauce. 

STUFFED    CABBAGE 

For  this  select  a  nice  head  of  Savoy  cabbage.  Pour  over 
it  boiling  water,  let  stand  fifteen  minutes,  drain,  scald  again 
and  let  stand  thirty  minutes.  Drain  and  shake  until  dry. 
Make  the  stuffing  as  follows :  Wash  two  heaping  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  rice  in  cold  water,  then  mix  it  with  a  half-pound  of 
sausage  meat,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  onion  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley ;  mix  all  well  together.  Open 
the  cabbage  carefully  to  the  very  centre ;  put  in  a  half-tea- 
spoonful  of  the  mixture,  fold  over  two  or  three  of  the  little 
leaves ;  now  cover  these  with  a  layer  of  the  mixture,  fold 
over  this  the  next  layer  of  leaves,  and  so  on  until  each 
layer  is  stuffed.  Press  all  firmly  together,  tie  in  a  piece  of 
cheese-cloth,  put  it  into  a  kettle  of  salted  boiling  water, 
and  boil  two  hours.  When  done,  carefully  remove  the 
cloth,  stand  the  cabbage  in  a  deep  round  dish,  pour  over  it 
Cream  Sauce,  and  serve  very  hot. 

RED  CABBAGE   a  la  FLAMANDE 

Take  off  the  outer  leaves  of  a  hard  head  of  red  cabbage 
and  cut  it  in  quarters.  Scald,  drain,  and  chop  fine.  Put  it 
into  a  stewing-pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one 
onion,  one  bay  leaf,  two  cloves,  a  teaspoon ful  of  salt,  and 
a  small  piece  of  Chili  pepper.  Simmer  slowly  for  one  hour, 
stirring  occasionally.  Take  out  the  bay  leaf,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  fresh  butter,  and  serve. 

SAUERKRAUT 

Shred  the  cabbage  fine.  Line  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a 
small  keg  with  the  green  cabbage  leaves,  put  in  a  layer  of 


VEGETABLES  271 

the  cabbage  about  three  inches  thick,  cover  with  four 
ounces  of  salt  and  pound  down  well,  then  another  layer  of 
cabbage  and  salt,  and  so  on  until  the  keg  is  full.  Put  a  board 
on  top  of  the  cabbage,  and  on  this  a  heavy  weight,  and 
stand  in  a  moderately  warm  place  to  ferment.  The  cabbage 
sinks  when  the  fermentation  begins,  and  the  liquor  rises  to 
the  surface  over  the  cover.  Skim  off  the  scum  and  stand 
the  keg  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar,  and  it  is  ready  to  use.  Cover 
it  closely  each  time  any  is  taken  out.  When  you  use  it, 
wash  it  in  warm  water,  and  boil  it  with  corned  beef  or  salt 
pork  the  same  as  cabbage. 

KOHL-RABI 

Kohl-rabi,  or  kale-turnip,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  is  a 
cultivated  variety  of  kale  or  cabbage,  distinguished  by  the 
swelling  of  the  stem,  just  above  the  ground,  in  a  turnip 
form,  to  the  size  of  a  man's  fist ;  the  larger  leaf-stalks 
springing  from  the  swollen  part.  This  swollen  part  is  used 
for  food.  It  may  be  served  according  to  any  of  the  recipes 
given  for  turnips ;  or,  uncooked  in  slices — the  same  as 
radishes. 

STEWED  CARROTS 

3  good-sized  carrots  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter    i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
y^  pint  of  milk  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Pare  and  quarter  the  carrots.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  and 
cover  them  with  boiling  water ;  add  the  salt  and  let  them 
boil  one  hour  and  a  half.  When  done,  drain,  place  them 
on  a  hot  dish,  and  stand  over  boiling  water  to  keep  warm. 
Now  put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  let  it  melt ;  add  the 
flour,  and  mix.  Do  not  brown.  Now  add  the  milk,  salt 
and  pepper.  Stir  until  it  boils,  and  is  smooth.  Pour  over 
the  carrots,  and  serve. 


272  PHILADELPHIA    COOK    BOOK 

BOILED   CAULIFLOWER 

Pick  off  the  outer  leaves  and  cut  off  the  stem  close  to  the 
bottom  ot  the  flowerets.  Wash  well  in  cold  water,  then 
soak  with  the  top  downward  in  clear,  cold  water  for  one 
hour.  Then  tie  it  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth,  to  prevent 
breaking.  Stand  it  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water  with  the 
stem  downward,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  cover  the  kettle, 
and  boil  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  until  the  cauliflower  is 
tender.  When  done,  lift  it  carefully  from  the  water,  undo 
the  cloth,  and  stand  the  cauliflower  in  a  round,  shallow 
dish,  stem  downward.  Pour  over  it  Cream  Sauce,  and  serve. 


STEWED    CAULIFLOWER 

Choose  those  that  are  close  and  white.  Pick  off  the  outer 
leaves  and  break  apart.  Wash,  and  soak  in  cold  water  for 
a  half-hour.  Then  put  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  briskly  until  the  stalks  feel 
tender  (about  twenty  minutes).  When  done,  take  up  with 
a  skimmer,  that  you  may  not  break  it.  Toast  squares  of 
bread,  butter  them  while  hot,  arrange  the  cauliflower  neatly 
on  them,  and  serve  with  Allemande  sauce. 


CAULIFLOWER   au    GRATIN 

Boil  the  cauliflower  as  directed  in  recipe  for  Boiled  Cauli- 
flower. Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  ; 
when  melted,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour;  mix  until 
smooth,  add  a  half-pint  of  milk ;  stir  continually  until  it 
boils ;  add  a  half-teaspoon  ful  of  salt  and  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  grated  cheese  (Parmesan  is  best),  pour  this  over  the 
cauliflower,  and  serve. 


VEGETABLES  273 

STEWED     CELERY 

The  green  stalks  that  are  not  attractive  on  the  table  may 
be  used  in  this  way : 

Scrape  and  wash  them  clean.  Cut  in  pieces  one  inch 
long,  and  soak  in  cold  water  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoon ful 
of  salt,  and  boil  thirty  minutes,  or  until  tender.  When 
done,  drain  in  a  colander  and  throw  into  cold  water  while 
you  make  the  sauce.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a 
frying-pan ;  and,  when  melted,  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour;  mix  until  smooth ;  add  a  half-pint  of  milk,  and  stir 
continually  until  it  boils ;  then  add  three  tablespoon fuls  of 
the  water  in  which  the  celery  was  boiled,  salt,  and  white 
pepper  to  taste.  Add  the  celery  to  this  sauce,  stir  until 
thoroughly  heated  through,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

CELERY  au  JUS 

Scrape  and  wash  the  celery.  Cut  it  in  pieces  one  inch 
long ;  then  put  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  stock, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  thirty  minutes.  Put 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  stir  until  a 
dark  brown  ;  add  to  it  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  until 
smooth.  Drain  the  celery,  then  add  a  half-pint  of  the 
liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled  to  the  butter  and  flour ;  stir 
continually  until  it  boils,  then  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Put  the  celery  in  a  heated  dish,  pour  over  it  the  sauce,  and 
serve. 

CELERY  ROOT 

Pare  one  dozen  celery  roots,  throw  them  in  cold  water  and 
soak  a  half-hour.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  thirty  minutes, 
or  until  tender.  When  done,  drain  and  cut  into  slices. 
Cover  with  Cream  Sauce,  and  serve. 


274  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

STEWED  CHESTNUTS 

Remove  the  shells  from  one  pint  of  chestnuts,  cover  with 
boiling  water  and  let  blanch  fifteen  minutes,  then  remove 
the  brown  skin.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boil- 
ing water,  boil  fifteen  minutes ;  then  add  a  half-teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  boil  ten  minutes  longer,  or  until  you  can  pierce 
them  with  a  fork.  When  done,  drain,  turn  into  a  heated 
dish,  pour  over  them  Cream  Sauce,  and  serve. 

BOILED  CHESTNUTS 

Prepare  and  boil  one  pint  of  chestnuts  as  directed  in  pre- 
ceding recipe.  When  done,  drain,  mash  fine,  and  press 
through  a  colander ;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Serve  the  same  as  mashed  potatoes. 

CHESTNUTS  WITH  BROWN  SAUCE 
Remove  the  shells  from  one  pint  of  chestnuts,  cover  them 
with  boiling  water  and  blanch  fifteen  minutes,  then  peel  off 
the  thin,  brown  skin.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan,  cover 
with  boiling  stock,  and  boil  thirty  minutes,  or  until  you 
can  pierce  them  with  a  fork.  When  done,  drain,  and  save 
the  stock  in  which  they  were  boiled.  Put  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  butter  into  a  frying-pan  to  brown ;  when  brown,  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  until  smooth ;  then  add  a 
half-pint  of  the  stock  in  which  the  chestnuts  were  boiled, 
stir  continually  until  it  boils,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
pour  over  the  chestnuts,  and  serve. 

PUREE    OF    CHESTNUTS 

i  quart  of  chestnuts  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  quart  of  water  or  stock      Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Shell  the  chestnuts,  throw  them  into  boiling  water  until  the 

skins  come  off  easily ;  then  drain  and  remove  the  brown 

skin.     Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  the  water  or  stock,  and 


VEGETABLES  275 

boil  gently  for  a  half-hour,  or  until  they  will  mash  easily 
under  pressure.  Then  press  them  through  a  colander, 
return  them  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  butter,  salt  and  pep- 
per, stir  until  it  boils,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

CORN  BOILED  ON  THE  COB 

Corn  should  be  cooked  as  quickly  as  possible  after  picking, 
as  it  heats,  and  loses  its  sweetness.  If  necessary  to  keep 
over  night,  spread  it  out  singly  on  the  cold  cellar  floor. 
When  ready  to  cook,  remove  the  husks  and  every  thread  of 
silk.  Put  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  rapidly, 
after  it  begins  to  boil,  five  minutes.  When  done,  take  out 
with  a  skimmer,  heap  on  a  platter,  and  serve  immediately. 

TO  EAT 

Score  every  row  of  grains  with  a  sharp  knife,  spread  lightly 
with  butter,  dust  with  salt,  and  with  the  teeth  press  out  the 
centre  of  the  grain  leaving  the  hull  on  the  cob.  Thus  eaten 
it  will  cause  no  trouble,  as  the  hull  is  the  only  indigestible 
part. 

CORN  BOILED  IN  THE  HUSKS 

Remove  the  green  outside  husks,  leaving  the  cob  well  cov- 
ered with  the  inner  light  husks.  Throw  into  a  kettle  of 
boiling  water,  and  boil  rapidly,  after  it  begins  to  boil,  ten 
minutes.  When  done,  take  out,  drain,  pull  the  silk  from 
the  end  of  the  cob,  and  serve  in  the  husks. 

CORN  FRITTERS 

1  dozen  ears  of  corn  ^  pint  of  milk 

2  eggs  i  cup  of  flour 

i  teaspoonful  of  baking-     J^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

powder  2  dashes  of  black  pepper 

Score  the  corn  down  the  centre  of  each  row  of  grains,  then 
with  the  back  of  the  knife  press  out  the  pulp,  leaving  the 


276  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

hull  on  the  cob.  Do  not  grate  the  corn,  as  in  that  way 
you  get  the  hull.  To  this  pulp  add  the  milk,  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  salt,  pepper  and  flour  ;  beat  well.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  them  and  the  baking- 
powder  carefully  into  the  mixture.  Put  lard  or  dripping 
into  a  frying-pan ;  when  hot,  drop  the  mixture  by  spoon- 
fuls into  the  deep  fat.  When  brown  on  one  side,  turn  and 
brown  the  other.  Take  out  with  a  skimmer  (do  not  pierce 
them  with  a  fork,  as  it  makes  them  heavy),  drain  on  brown 
paper,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Canned  corn  may  be  used,  allowing  one  pint  finely 
chopped. 

CORN  OYSTERS 

Score  and  press  the  corn  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe, 
and  to  every  pint  of  pulp  allow 

2  eggs  y2  teaspoonful  of  salt 

2  heaping  tablespoon fuls        i  dash  of  cayenne 

of  flour  i  dash  of  black  pepper 

Beat  the  eggs  separately ;  add  first  the  yolks  and  then  the 
whites  to  the  corn,  mix  gently,  add  the  salt,  cayenne,  pep- 
per, and  flour ;  mix  again.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lard 
or  butter  in  a  frying-pan ;  when  hot,  drop  the  mixture 
by  spoonfuls  into  it ;  when  brown  on  one  side,  turn  and 
brown  the  other.  Serve  very  hot. 

CORN  PUDDING 

i  dozen  large  ears  of  young  corn  i  pint  of  milk 

4  eggs  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

%  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper 

Score  the  corn  down  the  centre  of  each  row  of  grains, 
then  with  the  back  of  the  knife  press  out  all  the  pulp, 
leaving  the  hull  on  the  cob.  Beat  the  whites  and  yolks 
of  the  eggs  separately,  add  the  yolks  to  the  corn,  mix 
thoroughly ;  then  add  the  salt,  pepper  and  milk,  and  stir  in 


VEGETABLES  277 

carefully  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Brush  a  pudding  dish  lightly 
with  butter,  and  pour  in  the  mixture.  Bake  slowly  one 
hour.  Serve  as  an  accompaniment  to  roast  beef  or  lamb. 


SUCCOTASH 

i  pint  of  young  lima  or  kidney  beans 

i  pint  of  corn  pressed  from  the  cob 
^  pint  of  milk  or  cream 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Shell  the  beans,  cover  them  with  boiling  water,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  twenty-five  minutes;  then 
add  an  eighth-teaspoon ful  of  baking-soda,  boil  one 
minute,  and  drain.  Score  the  corn  and  press  it  from  the 
cob,  add  it  to  the  beans,  then  add  the  milk,  butter,  salt, 
and  pepper,  stir  continually  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes, 
and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

In  winter,  when  the  corn  and  beans  are  dried,  soak 
both  separately  over  night.  In  the  morning,  cover  the 
beans  with  fresh  water  and  boil  gently  for  two  hours.  Do 
not  drain  the  water  from  the  corn,  but  keep  it  on  the  back 
part  of  the  fire  where  it  will  not  boil  during  the  two  hours 
the  beans  are  boiling.  When  the  beans  are  tender,  drain 
them,  add  them  to  the  corn,  which  should  have  just  water 
enough  to  cover.  Cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
add  the  cream,  butter,  salt,  and  pepper. 

This  may  also  be  made  from  canned  corn  and  beans. 

TO  COOK  CANNED  CORN 

Open  the  top  of  the  can  with  a  can-opener,  turn  out  the 
corn  into  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  a  quarter-cup  of  cream,  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste;  stir 
over  the  fire  until  very  hot,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 


278  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

TO  DRY  CORN 

Remove  the  husks  and  silk  from  the  cob,  score  the  corn 
down  the  centre  of  each  row  of  grains,  then,  with  the  back 
of  the  knife,  press  out  all  the  pulp,  leaving  the  hull  on  the 
cob.  Spread  this  pulp  on  tin  sheets  or  baking-pans,  and 
dry  in  a  very  moderate  oven.  Watch  carefully,  or  the  corn 
will  brown ;  stir  three  or  four  times  while  drying.  If  the 
oven  is  just  right  it  will  take  about  three  hours  to  dry. 
When  dry,  put  into  bags  and  hang  away  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

TO  COOK  DRIED  CORN 

Cover  one  pint  of  corn  with  warm  water  and  stand  it  on 
the  back  part  of  the  fire  over  night.  In  the  morning,  if  it 
has  absorbed  all  the  water,  add  more,  and  cook  slowly  two 
hours,  or  until  you  are  ready  to  use ;  then  add  salt,  pepper, 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  a  half-pint  of  cream. 

COLD  CORN 

Cold  corn  left  from  dinner  may  be  cut  from  the  cob, 
covered  with  milk,  and  stewed  five  minutes.  Season  with 
a  bit  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

CORN   SALAD 

Corn  salad  may  be  washed,  cooked  and  served  the  same  as 
spinach. 

STEWED  CUCUMBERS         No.  i 

6  cucumbers  i  small  onion 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter      i  tablespoonful  of  flour 
YZ  pint  of  stock  or  water       Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Pare    the   cucumbers,   cut   them    in    quarters,  remove    the 
seeds.       Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  add  to  it  the 
onion  cut  in  slices,  fry  until   brown,  then  add  the  cucum- 
bers, and  fry  carefully  until  a  light  brown ;    take  them  out 


VEGETABLES  279 

with  a  slice,  add  the  flour  to  the  butter  remaining  in  the 
pan,  mix  until  smooth  ;  add  the  stock,  stir  continually  until 
it  boils,  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  then  the  cucumbers,  and 
stew  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve  on  squares  of 
toasted  bread. 

STEWED  CUCUMBERS         No.  2 

6  cucumbers  2  tablespoon  fuls  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour    ^  pint  of  boiling  water 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Pare  the  cucumbers,  cut  them  in  quarters,  remove  the 
seeds,  and  soak  them  in  cold  water  for  a  half-hour.  Then 
put  them  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  until  tender  (about  thirty 
minutes).  When  done,  drain,  turn  them  carefully  into  a 
vegetable  dish,  pour  drawn  butter  over  them,  and  serve. 

FRIED  CUCUMBERS 

Pare  the  cucumbers,  cut  them  into  slices  about  one-sixteenth 
of  an  inch  thick,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip 
them  first  in  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs.  Put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lard  or  dripping  into  a  frying-pan ;  when  hot, 
put  in  a  few  slices  of  the  cucumbers;  when  brown  and 
crisp  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown  the  other.  Take  out 
carefully,  drain  on  brown  paper,  and  serve  very  hot. 

CUCUMBERS  FRIED  IN  BATTER 
Pare  "three  cucumbers,  cut  them  in  slices  about  one-sixteenth 
of  an  inch  thick,  dredge  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let 
them  lie  fifteen  minutes.  Beat  one  egg  (the  white  and  yolk 
together)  until  light ;  add  to  it  a  half-pint  of  milk,  a  half- 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  dashes  of  black  pepper,  and  a  cup 
and  a  half  of  sifted  flour ;  beat  until  smooth.  Dip  the 
pieces  of  cucumbers  into  this  batter,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat 


280  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

or  oil.  The  fat  must  be  deep  enough  to  float  them.  When 
done,  take  them  out  with  a  skimmer  (piercing  them  with  a 
fork  will  make  them  fall),  drain  them  on  brown  paper,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

BOILED  DANDELIONS 

Use  the  first  shoots  of  the  dandelions.  They  are  not  fit  for 
food  after  they  blossom,  as  they  then  become  bitter  and 
stringy.  Cut  off  the  roots,  pick  them  over  carefully,  and 
wash  well  in  several  waters ;  then  put  them  in  a  saucepan, 
cover  with  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil 
one  hour.  When  done,  drain  and  chop  fine  ;  then  put  them 
in  a  frying-pan,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste ;  stir  until  thoroughly  heated,  and  serve  with  Egg 
Sauce. 

WILTED  DANDELIONS 

Cut  the  roots  from  a  quarter-peck  of  dandelions,  wash 
the  leaves  through  several  cold  waters,  drain  and  shake 
until  dry.  Take  a  handful  of  the  leaves  and  cut  them  with 
a  sharp  knife  into  small  pieces,  and  so  continue  until  you 
have  them  all  cut.  Beat  one  egg  until  light,  add  to  it  a 
half-cup  of  cream,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  thickens ; 
then  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Now  put 
the  dandelions  into  this,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  they  are 
all  wilted  and  tender.  Serve  hot. 

SOUR  OR  NARROW  DOCK 

This  is  a  common  weed  in  our  rich  ground  and  pastures. 
The  leaves  are  long,  narrow,  and  curly,  and  may  be  cooked 
the  same  as  spinach.  It  is  supposed  to  possess  an  alterative 
property  forming  an  excellent  diet  in  scorbutic  cases. 


VEGETABLES  281 

FRIED  EGG-PLANT         No.  i 

Pare  the  egg-plant,  and  cut  in  very  thin  slices.  Sprinkle 
each  slice  with  salt  and  pepper,  pile  them  evenly,  put  a  tin 
plate  over  them,  and  on  this  stand  a  flat-iron  to  press  out 
the  juice.  Let  stand  one  hour.  Beat  an  egg  lightly,  and 
add  to  it  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water,  dip  each  slice 
first  in  this  and  then  in  bread  crumbs.  Put  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lard  or  dripping  in  a  frying-pan  ;  when  hot, 
saute  the  slices,  a  few  at  a  time,  brown  one  side,  then  turn 
and  brown  the  other.  As  the  fat  is  consumed,  add  more, 
waiting  each  time  for  it  to  heat  before  putting  in  the  egg- 
plant. Drain  on  brown  paper,  and  serve  very  hot. 
Tomato  catsup  should  be  served  with  it. 

FRIED  EGG-PLANT         No.  2 

Pare  the  egg-plant,  and  cut  it  in  slices  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  thickly 
with  flour,  and  saute  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe. 

BAKED  EGG-PLANT 

Wash  the  egg-plant,  put  it  in  a  kettle,  cover  with  boiling 
water,  and  boil  until  tender  (about  a  half-hour),  then  take 
it  out  carefully,  cut  it  in  half,  and  scoop  out  the  soft  por- 
tion, leaving  the  skin  unbroken.  Mash  the  egg-plant  fine, 
add  to  it  a  large  tablespoonful  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Mix  well,  and  put  back  into  the  skin.  Sprinkle  the 
top  lightly  with  bread  crumbs,  and  put  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

ENDIVE 

Endive  may  be  wilted  the  same  as  dandelions  or  lettuce. 

BOILED  HOMINY 

Wash  one  pint  of  the  large  white  hominy  in  cold  water, 
then  cover  with  tepid  soft  water,  and  soak  over  night.  In 
the  morning,  turn  the  hominy  and  the  water  into  a  sauce- 


282  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

pan,  and  boil  slowly  for  five  hours.  When  done,  drain  in 
a  colander,  turn  into  a  heated  vegetable  dish,  and  stir  in  a 
large  tablespoonful  of  butter ;  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

GRITS  OR  SMALL  HOMINY 

Wash  a  half-pint  of  grits  through  several  cold  waters ;  then 
put  it  in  a  farina  boiler,  cover  with  cold  water,  and  soak 
over  night.  In  the  morning,  add  a  pint  of  milk,  and  boil 
one  hour  ;  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  mix  carefully, 
and  serve  for  breakfast  with  sugar  and  cream. 

FRIED  GRITS 

Wash  a  half-pint  of  grits  in  cold  water ;  then  cover  with 
one  quart  of  tepid  water,  and  soak  over  night.  In  the 
morning,  turn  it  into  a  farina  boiler  and  boil  one  hour; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ;  then  pour  into  a 
square  mould  and  stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  cut  in 
slices,  dust  each  slice  with  flour,  and  fry  in  fresh  dripping  or 
lard  until  a  light  brown. 

HOMINY  CROQUETTES 

Hominy  croquettes  may  be  made  precisely  the  same  as  Rice 
Croquettes,  using  two  cups  of  grits  instead  of  one  cup  of 

rice. 

KALE 

Kale  may  be  cooked  and  served  the  same  as  spinach. 

LENTILS 

Wash  and  soak  a  pint  of  lentils  over  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing, drain  and  cover  with  warm  soft  water,  and  bring 
quickly  to  a  boil.  Boil  gently  for  one  hour,  drain,  cover 
again  with  fresh  boiling  soft  water,  and  boil  gently  until 
tender  (about  one  and  one-half  hours  longer).  Take  out 
one  or  two ;  if  they  mash  quickly  under  pressure,  they  are 
done.  Drain  in  a  colander.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of 


VEGETABLES  283 

butter  in  a  frying-pan  ;  when  melted,  add  the  lentils,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  and 
they  are  ready  to  serve. 

LENTILS  AND  RICE 

Boil  the  lentils  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe.  Wash 
and  boil  one  cup  of  rice.  Put  two  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 
in  a  frying-pan  ;  when  melted,  add  one  onion  cut  in  slices, 
then  the  lentils  and  rice,  and  stir  over  the  fire  fifteen  min- 
utes ;  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve. 

LENTIL  ROLLS 

y?  cup  of  lentils  ^  cup  of  chopped  uncooked 

y2  cup  of  rice  veal  or  chicken 

YV  cup  of  chopped  ham       %  teaspoon ful   of    powdered 
1 2  nice  vine  leaves  coriander  seed 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Boil  the  lentils  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  then 
drain,  and  mix  with  the  rice  (well  washed),  ham,  veal,  or 
chicken,  coriander  seed,  salt,  and  cayenne.  Scald  the  vine 
leaves,  and  shake  carefully,  to  dry.  Put  two  tablespoon  fuls 
of  the  mixture  in  each  leaf,  roll  loosely,  allowing  room  for 
the  rice  to  swell,  and  tie  with  darning  cotton.  Lay  these 
rolls  in  the  bottom  of  a  large  saucepan,  cover  with  stock ; 
add  one  bay  leaf,  a  small  onion  cut  in  slices,  four  cloves, 
and  a  blade  of  mace ;  cover  the  saucepan,  and  stew  slowly 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  done,  take  out  care- 
fully with  a«slice,  remove  the  strings,  and  arrange  the  rolls 
neatly  on  a  heated  dish.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
in  a  frying-pan  ;  when  melted,  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour  ;  mix  until  smooth ;  then  add  a  half-pint  of  the  stock 
in  which  the  rolls  were  boiled ;  stir  continually  until  it  boils, 
add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the 
well-beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  and  a  tablespoon  ful  of  tarragon 
vinegar.  Pour  it  over  the  rolls,  and  serve. 


284  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

DUTCHED    LETTUCE 

Wash  carefully  two  heads  of  lettuce,  separate  the  leaves, 
and  tear  each  leaf  in  two  or  three  pieces.  Cut  a  quarter- 
pound  of  ham  or  bacon  into  dice,  and  fry  until  brown; 
while  hot,  add  two  tablespoon fuls  of  vinegar.  Beat  one 
egg  until  light,  add  to  it  two  tablespoon  fuls  of  sour  cream, 
then  add  it  to  the  ham,  stir  over  the  fire  one  minute  until 
it  thickens,  and  pour,  boiling  hot,  over  the  lettuce;  mix 
carefully  with  a  fork,  and  serve  immediately. 

MUSHROOMS 

It  is  highly  important  for  those  who  employ  mushrooms  as 
food,  to  be  able  to  distinguish  those  which  are  edible  from 
the  poisonous  ones.  The  edible  appear  in  old  sod,  in  a 
clear,  open,  sunny  field.  They  are  at  first  very  small  on  a 
short  foot  stalk,  and  are  then  known  as  button  mushrooms. 
Their  growth  is  rapid;  in  an  hour  the  under  skin  cracks 
and  the  mushroom  then  opens,  spreading  like  an  umbrella, 
and  shows  the  gills  underneath,  which  should  be  a  pale 
salmon  color.  In  an  hour  or  so  it  changes  to  a  dark  brown, 
and  is  then  called  "old."  According  to  M.  Richard, 
even  mushrooms  which  are  usually  edible  may  prove  poison- 
ous, if  collected  too  late,  or  in  places  which  are  too  moist. 

The  skin  of  the  good  mushrooms  peels  off  easily. 
Those  with  yellow  or  white  gills,  and  those  which  grow  in 
low,  damp,  shady  places,  or  around  decayed  stumps  of  old 
trees,  or  any  other  decayed  matter,  are  to  be  avoided. 

The  good  mushrooms  have  invariably  an  agreeable 
smell,  while  the  poisonous  have  a  rank  putrid  smell.  It  is 
always  safe  to  use  the  canned  mushrooms,  which  are  con- 
venient and  cheap,  but  tough  and  indigestible,  and  we  cau- 
tion those  who  eat  them  to  masticate  diligently. 


VEGETABLES  285 

It  is  said  that  one  poisonous  mushroom  among  a  pint 
of  good  ones,  will  turn  a  silver  spoon  black,  if  stirred  with 
it  while  they  are  stewing 

DRIED    MUSHROOMS 

Wipe  the  mushrooms  clean,  and  peel  off  the  skin.  Cover 
the  bottoms  of  shallow  baking-pans  with  white  paper,  put 
the  mushrooms  in  a  single  layer  on  this,  and  stand  in  a  cool 
oven  to  dry.  When  dry  and  shriveled,  take  them  out,  put 
in  paper  bags,  and  hang  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

When  wanted  for  use,  put  them  in  cold  water  or  milk, 
and  bring  slowly  to  a  simmer.  In  this  way  they  will  regain 
nearly  their  natural  size  and  flavor. 

STEWED    MUSHROOMS         No.  I 

Peel  the  mushrooms,  wash  them  in  cold  water  and  cut  off 
the  bottom  of  the  stalks.  Then  put  them  in  a  porcelain 
saucepan  ;  to  every  pint  of  mushrooms,  add  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Let  the  mushrooms  cook  in 
their  own  liquor  and  the  butter  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  add 
salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  immediately. 

STEWED  MUSHROOMS        No.  2 

Peel  the  mushrooms,  wash  them  in  cold  water  and  cut  off 
the  bottom  of  the  stalks.  Then  put  them  into  a  porcelain- 
lined  kettle;  to  every  pint  of  mushrooms  add  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  divided  into  four  bits  and  rolled  in  flour. 
Let  the  mushrooms  cook  in  their  own  liquor  with  the  butter 
and  flour  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  thick  cream,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Take  from  the 
fire,  add  the  well-beaten  yolk  of  one  egg,  and,  if  you  use 
it,  one  tablespoonful  of  sherry.  Serve  immediately. 


286  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

TO  STEW    CANNED    MUSHROOMS 

i  can  of  mushrooms  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Yolk  of  one  egg  ^  pint  of  milk 

i  tablespoonful  of  sherry,       Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
if  you  use  it  (white  is  the  best) 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

Drain  the  mushrooms.  Put  the  butter  in  a  porcelain  or 
granite  saucepan,  add  to  it  the  flour,  mix  until  smooth; 
add  the  milk,  and  stir  continually  until  it  boils;  then  add 
the  mushrooms,  salt  and  pepper,  stir  until  thoroughly 
heated.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  well-beaten  yolk  of 
the  egg,  and  the  wine,  then  serve. 

In  cooking  canned  mushrooms,  do  not  boil,  as  they 
are  already  cooked,  and  the  second  boiling  toughens  them. 

BAKED  MUSHROOMS 

For  this,  choose  the  larger  mushrooms.  Peel,  cut  off  the 
stalks  close  to  the  top,  place  them  upside  down  in  a  pie 
dish,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  a  tiny  piece  of 
butter  in  each  rnusi..  jom.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty 
minutes,  basting  two  or  three  times  with  a  little  melted 
butter.  Serve  hot  on  the  dish  in  which  they  were  baked. 

BROILED    MUSHROOMS 

For  this,  choose  the  largest  mushrooms  you  can  get.  Peel, 
cut  off  the  stalks  close  to  the  top,  baste  them  well  with 
melted  butter,  dust  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let 
them  stand  a  half-hour.  Then  place  them  in  a  wire  broiler, 
close  the  broiler  very  carefully  so  as  not  to  break  them, 
broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on 
the  other.  Open  the  broiler,  remove  them  carefully  with 
a  spoon,  place  them  on  small  squares  of  buttered  toast, 
pour  on  a  little  melted  butter,  and  serve. 


VEGETABLES  287 

BOILED    OKRA 

i  quart  of  young  white  okra 

i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  vinegar 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  okra  well  in  cold  water,  put  into  a  porcelain-lined 
or  granite  kettle  (an  iron  kettle  discolors  the  okra)  with  a 
half-pint  of  water  and  a  teaspoon  ful  of  salt.  Cover  the 
kettle  and  simmer  gently  thirty  minutes;  then  add  the  but- 
ter, vinegar,  and  pepper,  and  more  salt  if  necessary,  boil 
up  once  and  serve. 

OKRA  STEWED    WITH    TOMATOES 
i  quart  of  okra  i  pint  of  tomatoes 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  okra,  and  cut  in  thin  slices.  Peel  the  tomatoes, 
and  cut  in  slices.  Put  both  in  a  porcelain-lined  or  granite 
kettle,  add  one  teaspoon  ful  of  salt,  cover  the  kettle,  and 
simmer  gently  for  a  half-hour;  then  add  the  butter  and 
pepper,  and  more  salt  if  necessary. 

STEWED    OKRA   WITH    RICE 
i  quart  of  okra  i  cup  of  rice 

1/2,  pound  of  ham  i  onion 

i  red  pepper  i  tablespoonful  of  powdered 

i  pint  of  white  stock  dry  sassafras  leaves 

i  pint  of  tomatoes 

Wash  the  okra,  and  cut  in  thin  slices.  Cut  the  ham  into 
dice  and  fry  it  until  brown.  Peel  and  cut  the  tomatoes, 
put  them  into  a  porcelain-lined  or  granite  kettle  with  the 
okra,  ham,  stock,  the  pepper  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  onion 
cut  in  slices ;  cover  the  kettle,  and  simmer  gently  for  a  half- 
hour.  While  this  cooks,  wash  and  boil  the  rice.  When 
the  okra  is  done,  add  the  salt,  pepper  and  sassafras  leaves 
(called  filee),  let  it  boil  up  once,  and  serve  with  the  rice 
around  the  dish. 


288  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

BOILED    ONIONS 

i  dozen  onions  i  tablespoon  ful  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour  yz  pint  of  milk 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Put  the  onions  into  cold  water  and  remove  the  skins.  Put 
them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  boil  until  you  can  pierce  them  easily  with  a 
fork  (about  forty  minutes);  then  drain,  and  turn  carefully 
into  a  heated  vegetable  dish.  Put  the  butter  into  a  frying- 
pan  ;  when  melted,  add  the  flour,  mix  until  smooth ;  then 
add  the  milk,  and  stir  continually  until  it  boils ;  add  salt 
and  pepper,  and  pour  over  the  onions. 

FRIED   ONIONS 

Cover  the  onions  with  cold  water  and  remove  the  skins. 
Cut  them  in  slices,  cover  with  boiling  water,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  twenty  minutes ;  drain,  add  a 
large  tablespoonful  of  butter  to  the  onions  and  fry  for  a 
half-hour,  stirring  frequently ;  add  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve. 

BAKED   ONIONS 

Choose  large,  perfect  onions  for  this  purpose.  Trim  the 
bottoms,  but  do  not  peel  them.  Throw  them  into  a  kettle 
of  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  rapidly 
one  hour ;  then  drain  in  a  colander.  Take  each  one  out 
separately,  wipe  it  dry,  roll  in  a  square  of  tissue  paper,  and 
twist  at  the  top  to  keep  it  closed.  Now  place  them  in  a 
baking-pan,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  one  hour.  When 
done,  take  off  the  papers,  peel  the  onions,  put  them  into  a 
vegetable  dish,  and  pour  melted  butter  over  them.  Dust 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

Spanish  onions  are  particularly  nice  served  in  this  way. 


VEGETABLES  289 

STEWED  ONIONS 

Cover  the  onions  with  cold  water  and  remove  the  skins. 
Put  them  into  a  saucepan,  cover  with  stock,  and  stew  slowly, 
one  hour  if  young  and  two  if  old,  or  until  they  are  very 
tender.  When  done,  drain,  and  turn  carefully  into  a  veg- 
etable dish.  Put  one  tablespoon ful  of  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan,  and  stir  until  brown  ;  then  add  one  tablespoon  ful  of 
flour,  mix  well,  and  add  a  half-pint  of  the  stock  in  which 
the  onions  were  boiled ;  stir  continually  until  it  boils,  add 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  pour  over  the  onions,  and  serve. 

BOILED    PARSNIPS   WITH    CREAM    SAUCE 

If  the  parsnips  are  young,  scrape  and  throw  into  cold  water; 
if  old,  pare  and  cut  in  quarters.  Put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan of  boiling  water  and  boil  until  tender  (if  young,  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour;  if  old,  one  and  a  quarter  hours). 
When  done,  drain  them,  lay  them  on  a  heated  dish,  heads 
all  one  way,  cover  with  Cream  Sauce  or  Drawn  Butter,  and 
serve  with  corned  beef  or  boiled  salt  fish. 

FRIED  PARSNIPS 

Boil  the  parsnips  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
When  done,  drain,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  first  in 
melted  butter  and  then  in  flour.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  dripping  in  a  frying-pan;  and,  when  hot,  put  in  enough 
parsnips  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Fry  brown  on 
all  sides.  , 

PARSNIP    FRITTERS 
4  good-sized  parsnips         i  tablespoon  ful  of  flour 

1  egg 

Boil  the  parsnips  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe.  When 
done,  drain,  and  mash  fine  ;  add  to  them  a  half-teaspoonful 
of  salt,  the  flour,  the  egg  well  beaten,  and  a  dash  of  black 
pepper  ;  mix  well  and  form  in  small  cakes.  Put  two  large 


290  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

tablespoonfuls  of  dripping  in  a  frying-pan;  and,  when  hot, 
fry  the  cakes,  brown  on  one  side,  then  turn  and  brown  the 
other.  Drain  on  brown  paper,  and  serve. 

STEWED    PARSNIPS 

6  good-sized  parsnips  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Wash  and  scrape  the  parsnips,  cut  them  in  halves  and 
throw  them  in  cold  water  for  a  half-hour.  Then  put  them 
in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  add  the  salt,  and 
boil  for  one  hour.  Take  them  up  on  a  hot  dish  and  pour 
over  them  the  following  sauce:  Put  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  in  a  frying-pan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and 
mix  until  smooth;  then  add  a  half-pint  of  the  water  in 
which  the  parsnips  were  boiled.  Stir  and  boil  for  five 
minutes,  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 


GREEN  PEAS 

Peas,  like  corn,  lose  their  sweetness  almost  as  soon  as  they 
are  picked.  If  you  should  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  get 
stale  or  wilted  peas,  shell  and  throw  them  into  cold  water 
one  hour  before  cooking,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar 
to  the  water  in  which  they  are  boiled. 

Fresh  peas  should  not  be  shelled  until  just  before  the 
the  time  of  cooking ;  then  wash  them  quickly  in  cold 
water,  drain,  throw  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  to  harden  the  water.  This  will  prevent 
the  skins  from  cracking.  Boil  rapidly  from  ten  to  twenty 
minutes.  After  they  have  been  boiling  ten  minutes,  take 
out  one  or  two  and  press  with  a  fork ;  if  they  mash  easily 
they  are  done.  Drain,  turn  into  a  hot  dish,  add  a  lump 
of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  serve. 


VEGETABLES  291 

The  great  point  in  cooking  peas  is  to  have  plenty  of 
water,  boil  rapidly  and  drain  as  soon  as  they  are  done. 
Peas  cooked  in  this  way  will  retain  their  color  and  sweet- 
ness. 

TO  COOK  CANNED  PEAS 

After  opening  the  can,  drain  the  peas  free  from  all  liquor. 
Turn  them  into  a  saucepan,  and  to  every  pint-can  add  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste  ;  stir  gently  until  thoroughly  heated,  and  serve  at 
once. 

PUREE   OF  PEAS 

i  quart  of  green  peas  or  i  pint  of  milk 

two  pint  cans  i  pint  of  water 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

1  bay  leaf  i  onion 

2  cloves  i  sprig  of  parsley 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash  the  peas  in  cold  water ;  then  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  the  water  and  boil  twenty  minutes.  When  done  they 
should  be  almost  dry.  Press  through  a  colander.  Put  the 
milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Add  the  bay  leaf,  onion, 
cloves  and  parsley.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together 
until  smooth.  Strain  the  milk  into  the  peas,  then  return 
to  the  farina  boiler,  stir  in  the  butter  and  flour,  and  stir 
continually  until  it  boils  and  thickens;  then  add  the  salt 
and  pepper,  and  serve. 

Puree  of  lima,  or  any  other  green  beans,  may  be 
made  according  to  this  recipe. 

POKE  STALKS 

In  the  spring  the  young  shoots  are  much  used  as  food. 
They  should  not  be  over  four  inches  long,  and  should  show 
only  a  tuft  of  leaves  at  the  top.  Older  than  this  they  are 
poisonous. 


292  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Wash  and  lay  in  cold  water  for  one  hour ;  then  tie  in 
bundles,  as  you  do  asparagus.  Put  it  into  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water  and  boil  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  drain,  lay  on 
buttered  toast,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  with  Drawn 
Butter,  and  serve. 

STEAMED  POTATOES 

Wash  and  scrub  the  potatoes  well,  place  them  in  a  steamer 
or  colander  over  a  kettle  of  boiling  water ;  cover  and 
steam  until  you  can  pierce  with  a  fork ;  it  takes  a  little 
longer  to  steam  than  boil,  but  the  potato,  being  naturally 
watery,  should  never  be  cooked  by  boiling  if  you  have  the 
conveniences  for  steaming.  When  done,  remove  the  skins 
quickly,  and  serve  in  an  uncovered  dish. 

BOILED    POTATOES 

Pare  six  good-sized  potatoes,  and  let  them  lie  in  cold  water 
one  hour.  Then  put  them  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and 
boil  slowly  until  they  are  soft  enough  to  admit  a  fork.  Then 
pour  off  the  water.  (If  you  allow  them  to  remain  in  the  water 
one  second  after  they  are  done,  they  will  become  waxy  and 
watery.)  Uncover  the  kettle,  dredge  with  salt,  and 
shake  them  so  that  all  sides  may  be  exposed  to  the  cold  air. 
Cover  the  boiler  with  a  napkin,  and  let  stand  on  one  side 
of  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  and  they  are  ready  to  serve. 

Old  potatoes  that  have  sprouted  and  are  shriveled,  are 
better  covered  with  cold  water  instead  of  boiling  water. 

POTATOES  BOILED  IN  THEIR  SKINS 

Select  potatoes  of  uniform  size,  wash  and  scrub  them  well ; 
let  them  stand  in  cold  water  for  a  half-hour,  then  put  them 
into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  slowly  until  you 
can  pierce  easily  with  a  fork;  then  drain  very  dry, 


VEGETABLES  293 

dredge  with  salt,  and  stand  on  the  back  of  the  fire  with 
the  lid  of  the  kettle  off,  for  five  minutes.  Peel  quickly, 
and  serve  in  an  uncovered  vegetable  dish. 

MASHED  POTATOES 

Boil  as  directed  in  recipe  for  Boiled  Potatoes.  When 
done  and  dry,  mash  quickly  with  a  wire  masher  until  light 
and  free  from  all  lumps ;  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of 
a  walnut,  a  quarter-cup  of  boiling  cream,  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  dash  of  pepper.  Beat  with  a  fork  until 
very  light.  Serve  in  a  heated,  uncovered  dish.  The  pota- 
toes may  also  be  pressed  through  a  "Henis  Vegetable 
Press,"  which  removes  the  smallest  lumps  and  makes  them 
very  light. 

STEWED   POTATOES 

Pare  six  potatoes,  cut  them  into  dice  ;  throw  them  into 
cold  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  drain,  and  cover  with  boil- 
ing water  and  boil  until  tender ;  then  drain  off  every  drop 
of  water  ;  dredge  them  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  add 
apiece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  a  half-pint  of  milk,  a 
half-teaspoon ful  of  salt,  and  a  little  black  pepper;  stir 
carefully  until  they  boil,  and  serve  in  a  heated  dish. 

POTATO  PUFF 

2  cups  of  hot  or  cold  mashed     2  eggs 

potatoes  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  cream         Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Put  the  potatoes   in  a  frying-pan,  add   the   yolks  of  the 
eggs,  cream,  and  seasoning,  stir   over   the  fire  until   well 
mixed.      If  the  potatoes  are  cold,  stir  until  they  are  hot. 
Take  from  the  fire,  and  add  carefully  the  well-beaten  whites 
of  the  eggs.    Heap  on  a  greased  baking-dish  or  in  gem  pans. 
Bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  a  nice  brown. 


294  PHILADELPHIA     COOK  BOOK 

POTATO  CROQUETTES 

2  cups  of  mashed  potatoes  Yolks  of  two  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 

i  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice  parsley 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt  A  piece  of  butter  the  size 
A  grating  of  nutmeg  of  a  walnut 

A  dash  of  cayenne 

Beat  the  yolks  until  light,  add  them  to  the  potatoes,  and 
then  add  all  the  other  ingredients ;  mix,  and  turn  into  a 
small  saucepan  ;  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  leaves 
the  sides  of  the  pan,  take  from  the  fire,  and,  when  cool, 
form  into  cylinders.  Roll  first  in  egg  and  then  in  bread 
crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat. 

This  will  make  twelve  croquettes. 

BOULETTES 

2  cups  of  mashed  potatoes     Yolks  of  two  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  of  chopped    2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream 

parsley  i  teaspoonful    of  powdered 

i  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice          sweet  marjoram 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt  A  piece  of  butter  the  size 

A  dash  of  cayenne  of  a  walnut 

Beat  the  yolks  lightly  and  add  them  to  the  potatoes,  then 
add  all  the  other  ingredients ;  mix  well,  put  into  a  saucepan 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  leaves  the  sides  of 
the  pan.  Take  from  the  fire ;  when  cool,  form  into  bullets, 
dip  first  in  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boil- 
ing fat. 

Serve  as  a  garnish  to  boiled  fish  or  baked  meats. 

POTATOES  au  GRATIN 

6  cold  boiled  potatoes         ^  pint  of  stock 
y2  pint  of  cream  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  flour         4  heaping  tablespoonfuls 
Yolks  of  four  eggs  of  grated  cheese 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 
Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  melt ;    when  melted,  add 


VEGETABLES  295 

the  flour,  mix  until  smooth;  then  add  the  stock  and  cream, 
and  stir  continually  until  it  boils.  Take  from  the  fire,  add 
the  cheese,  the  yolks  well  beaten,  salt,  and  cayenne.  Put 
a  layer  of  this  sauce  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish,  then 
a  layer  of  the  cold  potatoes,  sliced,  and  so  on,  having  the 
last  layer  sauce ;  sprinkle  bread  crumbs  over  the  top,  and 
put  it  in  a  quick  oven  ten  minutes,  to  brown.  Serve  in 
the  dish  in  which  it  was  baked. 

POTATOES  a  la  BECHAMEL 

Steam  the  potatoes,  and  when  done,  cut  them  in  slices  and 
place  on  a  heated  dish.  Have  a  Bechamel  Sauce  ready, 
pour  it  over  the  potatoes,  and  serve  very  hot. 

SCALLOPED  POTATOES 

Cut  four  good-sized  boiled  or  steamed  potatoes  into  dice. 
Put  two  tablespoon fuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan ;  and,  when 
melted,  add  two  tablespoon  fuls  of  flour,  mix  until  smooth ; 
then  add  one  pint  of  milk,  and  stir  continually  until  it 
boils ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  three  dashes  of  black 
pepper ;  take  from  the  fire.  Put  a  layer  of  this  sauce  in 
the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish,  then  a  layer  of  potatoes,  then 
another  layer  of  sauce,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used,  having 
the  last  layer  sauce;  sprinkle  the  top  lightly  with  bread 
crumbs,  and  put  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  to  brown. 
Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  baked. 

HASHED  POTATOES  BROWNED  IN  THE  OVEN 
Pare  two  good-sized  potatoes,  and  cut  into  dice.  Put  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  ;  and,  when  melted, 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  until  smooth;  then 
add  a  half-pint  of  milk,  stir  continually  until  it  boils,  add 
a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  dashes  of  black  pepper. 
Put  a  layer  of  this  sauce  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish, 


296  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

then  a  layer  of  the  uncooked  chopped  potatoes,  then  a 
sprinkling  of  salt,  pepper,  parsley,  and  a  few  drops  of 
onion  juice,  then  another  layer  of  sauce,  and  so  on  until 
all  is  used,  having  the  last  layer  sauce ;  sprinkle  the  top 
over  lightly  with  bread  crumbs,  and  put  in  a  moderate  oven 
to  bake,  for  a  half-hour.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was 
baked. 

FRIED  POTATOES     (FRENCH) 

Pare  the  potatoes  and  throw  them  into  cold  water  for  one 
hour.  Then  cut  them,  either  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  or  in 
slices  or  blocks.  Have  ready  a  pan  of  very  hot  lard ;  dry  the 
potatoes  on  a  towel.  This  must  be  done  quickly,  so  as  not 
to  allow  the  potato  to  discolor.  Now  drop  them  quickly 
into  the  hot  lard.  When  done,  take  them  out  with  a  skim- 
mer, and  put  in  a  colander.  Stand  the  colander  on  a  tin 
plate,  and  then  in  the  oven,  with  the  door  open,  to  keep 
warm  while  you  fry  the  remainder.  When  all  are  done, 
sprinkle  with  salt,  and  serve  hot. 

When    cut  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  they  are  used  to 
garnish  boiled  or  baked  fish. 

FRIED  POTATOES 

Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  in  slices.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  lard  or  dripping  into  a  frying-pan ;  when  hot,  put  in 
just  enough  potatoes  to  cover  the  bottom  of.  the  pan. 
When  brown  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown  the  other ; 
then  dish  and  keep  warm  while  you  fry  another  panful,  and 
in  this  way  fry  the  desired  quantity,  adding  more  lard  or 
dripping  as  you  consume  it. 

LYONNAISE  POTATOES 

Cut  cold  boiled  or  steamed  potatoes  into  dice,  and  to  every 
pint  of  these  dice  allow  one  good-sized  onion,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  dash  of  black  pepper,  a 


VEGETABLES  297 

sprinkling  of  salt,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Put 
the  butter  into  a  frying-pan  ;  when  hot,  add  the  onion 
cut  in  thin  slices ;  fry  and  stir  until  half  done,  then  add 
the  potatoes  ;  fry  and  stir  gently  until  the  potatoes  are  all 
a  nice  light  brown.  It  may  require  a  little  more  butter,  as 
no  vegetable  absorbs  so  much  butter  as  the  potato.  When 
done,  turn  into  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  with  the  salt,  pepper, 
and  parsley,  and  serve  very  hot. 

SARATOGA    CHIPS 

Pare  one  large  potato,  and  cut  in  very  thin  slices,  on  a  vege- 
table cutter,  over  a  bowl  of  cold  water,  so  that  each  slice 
will  fall  into  the  water  (this  makes  them  light  and  dry 
after  being  fried) ;  soak  ten  minutes,  then  take  out  a  few 
pieces  at  a  time,  and  dry  them  on  a  soft  towel.  Have 
ready  a  kettle  of  boiling  lard.  Throw  in  the  slices,  a  few 
at  a  time,  stir  them  with  a  skimmer ;  when  a  light  brown, 
take  them  out,  and  place  on  a  piece  of  soft  brown  paper  in 
a  colander,  dredge  with  salt,  and  stand  in  the  open  oven 
to  keep  warm  while  you  fry  the  remainder.  Turn  the  first 
from  the  colander  into  a  hot  dish,  and  skim  out  the  second 
frying  on  the  paper,  and  so  continue  until  you  have  finished. 

SWELLED    POTATOES 

Pare  the  potatoes,  and  cut  in  slices  about  the  sixteenth  of 
an  inch  in  thickness ;  then  dry  them  on  a  towel.  Do  not 
soak  in  cold  water.  Have  ready  two  pans  of  hot  lard,  one 
a  little  hotter  than  the  other  ;  turn  the  potatoes,  a  few  at  a 
time,  into  the  coolest  lard.  When  fried,  take  them  out, 
drain  a  half-minute  in  the  colander,  then  throw  them  into 
the  very  hot  lard,  for  an  instant,  to  swell  or  puff.  If  the 
second  lard  is  quite  hot,  and  the  potatoes  are  good,  they 
will  certainly  swell.  When  done,  dust  them  with  salt,  and 
serve  very  hot. 


298  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

BAKED    POTATOES  WITH  MEAT 

Wash  and  pare  potatoes  of  uniform  size,  and  one  hour  be- 
fore the  meat  is  done,  put  them  in  the  baking-pan  around 
the  meat,  and  baste  with  the  dripping  every  time  you  baste 
the  meat. 

BAKED  POTATOES 

As  potatoes  contain  potash,  an  important  constituent  of 
the  blood,  which  is  freely  soluble  in  water,  they  are  much 
more  wholesome  baked  than  boiled. 

Wash  and  scrub  the  potatoes,  place  them  in  a  baking- 
pan,  then  in  a  quick  oven,  to  bake  for  thirty  minutes,  or 
until  you  can  mash  them  between  the  hands.  Do  not  try 
them  with  a  fork,  as  that  allows  the  steam  to  escape,  and 
consequently  the  potato  is  heavy.  Use  as  soon  as  done,  or 
they  will  become  watery. 

STUFFED  POTATOES 

Bake  six  good-sized  potatoes.  When  done,  cut  the  tops  off, 
and  with  a  spoon  scoop  out  the  potato  into  a  hot  bowl. 
Mash  fine,  and  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  quarter- 
cup  of  hot  milk,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Beat  until  very  light,  then  add  the  well-beaten  whites  of 
two  eggs ;  stir  gently.  Fill  the  skins  with  this  mixture, 
heaping  it  on  the  top  ;  brush  over  with  the  yolk  of  the 
eggs,  put  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

They  may  also  be  cut  into  halves  and  stuffed. 

POTATO  SOUFFLE 

Steam  six  good-sized  potatoes  in  their  jackets.  When  done, 
peel  and  mash  them  ;  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
(one  ounce),  a  half-pint  of  hot  cream,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  black  pepper  to  taste.  Now  beat  until  smooth  and 
light.  Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them 


VEGETABLES  299 

gently  into  the  potatoes,  heap  on  a  baking-dish,  and  put  in 
a  quick  oven  to  brown.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they 
were  baked. 

Two  heaping  tablespoon fuls  of  grated  cheese  added 
with  the  cream  is  an  improvement. 

PUREE  OF  POTATOES 

4  medium-sized  potatoes  i  pint  of  milk 

i  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice       i  tablespoon ful  of  butter 
i  tablespoon  ful  of  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Pare  the  potatoes,  and  soak  in  cold  water  for  a  half-hour, 
then  put  them  in  boiling  water  and  boil  slowly  until  you 
can  pierce  them  with  a  fork.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a 
farina  boiler.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  until 
smooth,  then  stir  into  the  boiling  milk ;  stir  until  it  thick- 
ens, then  add  the  onion  juice,  salt,  and  pepper.  Drain  the 
potatoes  and  mash  them  through  a  colander ;  add  to  them  the 
milk,  stir,  and  press  through  a  sieve.  Then  return  to  the 
farina  boiler ;  boil  five  minutes,  and  serve. 

ROAST  SWEET  POTATOES 

Wash  and  scrub  potatoes  of  uniform  size ;  do  not  cut  or 
scratch  them.  Put  them  in  a  baking-pan,  place  in  a  hot 
oven,  and  bake  until,  when  pressed  between  the  hands,  they 
seem  mellow  in  the  centre.  Serve  in  their  jackets  immedi- 
ately. 

BOILED    SWEET    POTATOES 

Wash  and  scrub  potatoes  of  uniform  size ;  do  not  cut  or 
break  the  skin.  Put  them  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and 
boil  until,  when  you  pierce  with  a  fork,  they  are  just  a  lit- 
tle hard  in  the  centre.  Now  drain  by  raising  the  cover 
just  enough  to  admit  the  draining  off  the  water  when  you 
tilt  the  kettle.  This  is  much  better  than  draining  in  a  col- 
ander. Stand  the  kettle  on  the  back  part  of  the  fire,  cover 


300  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

with  a  napkin,  and  let  steam  ten  minutes.  In  this  way  the 
potatoes  will  be  mealy  and  dry. 

FRIED    SWEET   POTATOES 

Skin  and  cut  lengthwise  boiled  sweet  potatoes.  Put  three 
tablespoon fuls  of  dripping  in  a  large  frying-pan,  dust  the 
potatoes  with  salt  and  pepper,  throw  them  into  the  hot  fat, 
brown  first  on  one  side,  then  turn  and  brown  the  other. 
Serve  very  hot. 

SWEET  POTATOES  ROASTED  UNDER  THE  MEAT 

Wash  and  pare  potatoes  of  uniform  size.  One  hour  before 
the  meat  is  done  put  them  in  the  baking-pan  with  the  meat, 
and  baste  every  ten  minntes  with  the  dripping. 

TO  WARM   OVER    SWEET    POTATOES 

Cut  cold  boiled  or  baked  sweet  potatoes  in  thin  slices. 
To  every  pint  of  these  slices  allow  two  tablespoon  fuls  of 
butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion,  a  half-pint  of 
stock,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put  the  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan  ;  when  hot,  throw  in  the  potatoes  and  onion,  fry  and 
stir  gently  until  a  nice  brown ;  then  take  them  out  with  a 
skimmer  and  keep  warm  while  you  make  the  sauce.  Add 
the  flour  to  the  butter  remaining  in  the  pan,  mix  until 
smooth,  then  add  the  stock,  stir  continually  until  it  boils; 
add  the  salt  and  pepper;  take  from  the  fire,  and  add  the 
yolk  of  one  egg;  pour  over  the  potatoes,  and  serve. 

BAKED    PUMPKIN 

Cut  the  pumpkin  first  in  halves,  then  in  quarters;  remove  the 
seeds,  but  not  the  rind.  Place  in  a  baking-pan  with  the 
rind  downwards,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  tender 
when  you  pierce  with  a  fork.  When  done,  serve  in  the 
rind ;  help  it  out  by  spoonfuls  as  you  would  mashed  pota- 
toes. 


VEGETABLES   .  301 

RADISHES     (Blot) 

Cut  off  the  roots  close  to  the  radish.  Cut  off  the  tops 
about  an  inch  from  the  radish.  Wash  clean  in  cold  water. 
Take  the  radish  with  the  left  hand,  holding  it  by  the  top; 
cut  the  skin  from  the  top  downwards,  in  several  parts,  like 
you  cut  an  orange  to  remove  the  skin,  without  detaching  it. 
Do  the  same  carefully  with  the  body  of  the  radish,  and  it 
will  look  more  like  a  rose  than  a  radish.  After  having 
prepared  two  or  three  it  will  be  comparatively  easy.  The 
centre  leaves  must  be  eaten  as  well  as  the  body  of  the 
radish  ;  they  contain  a  substance  that  helps  the  digestion 
of  the  radish  itself. 

BOILED  SALSIFY  OR  OYSTER  PLANT 
Wash  and  scrape  one  dozen  roots  of  salsify.  Throw  each 
one  into  cold  water  as  soon  as  you  have  scraped  it,  or  it  will 
turn  black.  Then  put  them  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
and  boil  until  tender  (about  one  hour) ;  drain,  cover  wi'th 
Cream  Sauce,  and  serve. 

SALSIFY   CAKES    OR    FRITTERS 
These  are  made  precisely  the  same  as  Parsnip  Fritters. 

SPINACH 

Wash  a  half-peck  of  spinach  through  several  waters  to  free 
it  from  grit.  Pick  it  over  very  carefully  and  cut  off  the 
roots.  Wash  again,  drain,  and  take  up  by  handfuls,  shake 
and  press  out  all  the  remaining  water.  Put  it  in  a  kettle, 
and  add  one  cup  of  water ;  cover  the  kettle,  place  over  a 
moderate  fire,  and  allow  the  spinach  to  thus  steam  for 
twenty  minutes.  Then  drain  in  a  colander;  turn  into  a 
chopping- tray  and  chop  very  fine;  //  cannot  be  too  fine; 
put  into  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  stir  until  very  hot.  Have  a  heated  dish  at 
hand,  and  arrange  on  it  small  squares  of  buttered  toast. 


302  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Mould  the  spinach  by  packing  it  tightly  in  a  cup,  and  turn 
each  cupful  out  on  a  slice  of  toast.  Place  half  of  a  hard- 
boiled  egg  on  the  top  of  each  mould.  Pour  Drawn  Butter 
around  the  toast,  and  serve. 

Or,  when  done,  drain,  chop  fine,  serve  in  a  heated 
vegetable  dish.  Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  in  slices  and  lay  on 
top. 

A  half-peck  of  spinach  will  serve  five  people. 

SUMMER  SQUASH     (BOILED) 

Pare  and  cut  in  slices  three  summer  squashes,  remove  the 
seeds  and  cut  the  slices  in  squares.  Put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan, cover  with  boiling  water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
boil  twenty  minutes.  When  done,  drain  in  a  colander  and 
press  gently;  then  mash  fine,  turn  into  a  strainer  cloth, 
and  squeeze  until  the  squash  is  dry.  Now  put  into  a  small 
saucepan  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  the  squash,  add  salt 
arid  pepper  to  taste,  stir  until  thoroughly  heated,  and  serve. 
Or,  cut  into  slices,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  first 
in  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry,  and  serve  the 
same  as  egg  plants. 

WINTER   SQUASH 

The  small  Hubbard  squash  is  best  for  baking.  Saw  the 
squash  in  halves;  scrape  out  the  soft  part  and  the  seeds. 
Put  the  halves  in  the  oven,  and  bake  about  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  or  until  tender.  Serve  in  the  shell.  Help  out 
by  spoonfuls. 

PUREE    OF    SORREL 

YZ  peck  of  sorrel  ^  cup  of  veal  stock 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter          Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Wash  the  sorrel  through  several  cold  waters,  cut  off  the 
steins — the  leaves  only  are  good.     Put  a  cup  of  cold  water 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  a  saucepan,  and  throw  in  the 


VEGETABLES  303 

sorrel  at  the  first  boil.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  boil  for 
twenty  minutes.  When  done,  drain,  and  chop  vety  fine, 
then  press  through  a  colander;  return  it  to  the  saucepan, 
add  the  butter,  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  let  it  boil  up  once, 
and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

STEWED    TOMATOES 

Pour  boiling  water  over  them,  with  a  sharp  knife  remove 
the  skins  and  the  hard  stem  ends,  and  cut  them  in  small 
pieces.  Stew  in  a  porcelain-lined  or  granite  saucepan  for 
a  half-hour,  then  add  to  'every  quart  of  tomatoes  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Stew  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  longer,  or  until 
they  are  of  the  desired  thickness. 

Some  prefer  the  tomatoes  stewed  only  thirty  minutes 
and  thickened  with  bread  crumbs. 

A  slice  of  onion  may  be  added  to  the  tomatoes  when 
first  put  on  to  cook,  and  to  me  is  a  great  improvement, 
filling  the  same  place  that  the  sprig  of  mint  does  in  peas  or 
beans. 

BAKED   TOMATOES 

Choose  six  large,  smooth  tomatoes.  Cut  a  slice  off  the 
stem  ends,  and  with  your  finger  carefully  scoop  out  the 
seeds.  Mix  together  a  half-cup  of  finely-chopped,  cold, 
boiled  ham,  twelve  chopped  mushrooms,  two  heaping 
tablespoonfuls  of  stale  bread  crumbs,  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  cay- 
enne, and  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter.  Fill  the  toma- 
toes with  this  mixture,  heaping  it  in  the  centre ;  sprinkle 
over  the  tops  with  bread  crumbs ;  place  the  tomatoes  in  a 
granite  baking-pan,  baste  with  melted  butter,  and  bake  in 
a  hot  oven  thirty  minutes.  When  done,  take  them  up  care- 
fully with  a  cake-turner,  and  serve. 


304  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

TOMATO   FARCI 

Put  a  layer  of  tomatoes  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish, 
then  a  layer  of  bread  crumbs,  then  a  sprinkling  of  salt  and 
pepper,  then  another  layer  of  tomatoes,  and  so  con- 
tinue until  the  dish  is  full,  having  the  last  layer  crumbs. 
Put  a  few  bits  of  butter  over  the  top  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  twenty  minutes.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was 
baked. 

STUFFED  TOMATOES 

Choose  large,  smooth  tomatoes.  Cut  a  slice  off  the  stem 
ends,  and  with  your  ringer  carefully  scoop  out  the  seeds. 
Put  one  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs  into  a  bowl,  add  to 
them  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion,  a  half-teaspoon  ml 
of  salt,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  and  moisten  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  melted  butter.  Fill  the  tomatoes  with  this  stuffing, 
heaping  it  in  the  centre.  Place  the  tomatoes  in  a  granite 
baking-pan,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  thirty  minutes. 
When  done,  take  them  up  carefully  with  a  cake-turner, 
place  on  a  heated  dish,  and  serve. 

This  stuffing  will  fill  six  tomatoes. 

FRIED    TOMATOES         No.    i 

Wash  and  cut  into  halves  six  nice,  smooth  tomatoes.  Place 
in  a  granite  baking-pan  with  the  skin  side  down.  Cut  a 
quarter-pound  of  butter  in  small  pieces  and  place  over  the 
tomatoes,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stand  over  a  mod- 
erate fire  to  fry  slowly.  When  the  tomatoes  are  tender, 
take  them  up  carefully  with  a  cake-turner  and  slide  them 
on  a  heated  dish.  Draw  the  baking-pan  over  a  quick  fire,  stir 
until  the  butter  is  a  nice  brown ;  then  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  flour;  mix  until  smooth,  add  a  pint  of  milk  or 
cream,  stir  continually  until  it  boils,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  pour  over  the  tomatoes,  and  serve. 


VEGETABLES  305 

FRIED    TOMATOES         No.    2 

Cut  smooth,  solid  tomatoes  into  slices  about  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  dry  each  slice  carefully  with  a  soft  towel, 
then  dust  with  salt  and  pepper.  Beat  an  egg  in  a  saucer 
until  light,  add  to  it  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water.  Dip 
each  slice  first  in  this  and  then  in  breajd  crumbs.  Put  two 
or  three  tablespoon fuls  of  lard  or  dripping  in  a  frying-pan  ; 
when  very  hot,  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  the  slices 
of  tomatoes ;  fry  brown  on  one  side,  then  turn  and  brown 
the  other.  Take  them  up  carefully  with  a  cake-turner, 
place  on  a  heated  dish,  and  keep  warm  while  you  fry  the 
remainder. 

BROILED    TOMATOES 

Choose  large,  firm  tomatoes,  cut  them  in  halves,  but  do 
not  peel  them.  Then  place  them  in  a  broiler,  dust  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  broil  over  a  clear  but  moderate  fire, 
skin  side  down,  until  tender  (about  twenty  minutes). 
When  done,  lift  them  carefully  to  a  heated  plate,  pour 
melted  butter  over  them,  and  serve. 

CURRIED   TOMATOES 

i  quart  of  stewed  tomatoes  or  one  quart  can 

i  cup  of  rice 

i  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder 

Salt  to  taste 

Wash  the  rice  through  several  cold  waters.  Add  the  curry 
powder  and  salt  to  the  tomatoes;  mix  well.  Put  a  layer 
of  the  tomatoes  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish,  then  a 
layer  of  the  uncooked  rice,  then  a  layer  of  tomatoes,  and 
so  on  until  all  is  used,  having  the  last  layer  tomatoes ; 
sprinkle  the  top  over  with  bread  crumbs,  place  a  few  bits 
of  butter  here  and  there  over  the  crumbs,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  a  half-hour.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which 
it  was  baked. 


306  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

BOILED  TURNIPS 

Wash  and  pare  the  turnips,  cut  them  into  slices  crosswise ; 
put  them  into  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and 
boil  until  tender  (about  thirty  minutes).  When  done, 
drain  in  a  colander,  pressing  lightly  to  squeeze  out  all  the 
water ;  then  mash  fine,  add  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
and  serve. 

Or,  mix  with  an  equal  quantity  of  hot  mashed  potatoes. 

TURNIPS  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE 

Pare  six  small  turnips  and  cut  them  into  dice ;  put  into  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  boil  for  thirty 
minutes.  When  the  turnips  are  nearly  done,  make  a  cream 
sauce,  and  stand  over  the  tea  kettle  to  keep  warm.  Drain 
the  turnips  in  a  colander,  turn  them  carefully  into  a  vege- 
table dish,  pour  the  cream  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

BROWNED    TURNIPS 

Pare  the  turnips,  cut  in  slices  crosswise,  and  boil  as  directed 
in  preceding  recipe.  Drain' in  a  colander.  Put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  ;  when  hot,  add  the 
turnips  and  one  tablespoonful  of  granulated  sugar ;  stir 
and  turn  carefully  until  the  slices  are  nicely  browned  ;  dust 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

These  are  a  nice  accompaniment  to  roast  ducks. 

RUTA-BAGA 

Ruta-bagas  are  much  more  solid  than  the  common  white 
turnips,  and  may  be  cooked  and  served  according  to  the 
recipes  given  for  turnips. 

BOILED  TURNIP  TOPS  OR  SPROUTS 
Wash  a  quarter-peck  of  turnip  tops  in  cold  water;  put 
them  into  a  kettle,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  boil 
twenty  minutes ;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  when  they  are 
half  done.  Drain  in  a  colander.  Serve  in  a  vegetable 
dish,  garnished  with  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs. 


ADDITIONAL    RECIPES  307 


308  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


ADDITIONAL    RECIPES 


310  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


BREAD 


Bread  heads  the  list  of  foods  for  man. 

It  is  said  that  a  slave  of  an  archon  at  Athens  first  made 
leaven  bread  by  accident.  He  forgot  some  of  his  dough, 
and,  some  days  after,  came  upon  it  and  found  it  sour.  His 
first  thoughts  were  to  throw  it  away;  but,  his  master  coming 
out,  he  mixed  it  quickly  with  some  fresh  dough  he  was 
working.  Of  course  the  bread  this  produced  was  delicious: 

Bread  is  mostly  made  from  wheat,  as  that  grain  contains 
more  gluten  in  the  proper  proportion  to  make  a  light  and 
spongy  bread,  which  will  allow  the  juices  of  the  stomach 
to  have  access  to  every  part,  and  digestion  in  all  parts  is 
commenced  immediately. 

Please  note  under  the  head  of  cereals  the  chemical 
composition  of  wheat,  and  you  will  see  at  once  that  our 
fine  white  bread  contains  little  but  starch.  We  cannot  say 
that  such  bread  is  the  "staff  of  life,"  but  the  brown  (not 
bran),  whole  wheat  bread  constitutes,  in  itself,  a  complete 
life-sustainer ;  consequently,  bread-making  is  the  most  im- 
portant of  the  cookery  of  grain  food. 

The  grinding  is  the  first  process  of  this  cookery,  and 
is  performed  in  several  ways,  each  one  claiming  superiority. 
One  is  by  grinding  the  grain  between  two  horizontal  stones, 
the  upper  revolving  and  grinding  the  grain  against  the  lower 


312  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

one,  which  is  stationary.  In  this  way  the  bran  or  outer 
husk  is  simply  separated  from  the  grain  ;  the  gluten  is  di- 
vided minutely,  while  the  starch  or  white  part  of  the  grain 
is  finely  powdered.  It  is  then  sifted  through  bolting-cloth, 
and  makes  our  fine  white  flour,  coarse  wheat  meal,  and  bran. 
The  flour  containing  little  or  no  bran  is  most  easily  digested. 
Another  method  is  the  Minnesota  or  "patent  process." 
In  this  way  the  grain  is  crushed  (not  ground)  by  passing 
through  corrugated  rollers,  and  then  sifted  through  bolting- 
cloths.  Still  another  is  the  new  patent  or  Haxall  process. 
By  this  method  the  flour  is  granulated,  and  contains  much 
more  gluten  than  either  of  the  others ;  consequently,  one- 
eighth  less  may  be  used  in  all  recipes  for  bread,  biscuit,  or 
cakes. 

The  fancy  names  given  to  flour  amount  to  very  little, 
as  the  same  flour  is  sold  by  several  dealers  under  their  own 
and  different  brands. 

Good  flour  adheres  to  the  hand,  and,  when  pressed 
tightly,  remains  in  shape,  and  shows  the  imprint  of  the 
lines  of  the  skin  on  the  hand.  It  has  a  yellowish-white 
tinge,  and,  when  made  into  a  paste  with  water,  and  well 
worked,  is  tough  and  elastic.  Select  it  carefully,  and  use 
one  kind  for  all  purposes — cakes,  pastry,  and  bread.  It 
is  a  mistaken  idea  that  the  flour  which  makes  good  bread 
will  not  make  good  pastry.  After  selecting  the  flour,  the 
next  important  thing  is  to  have  good,  strong,  sweet  yeast. 
Potato  yeast  is  the  best,  as  the  potato  starch  is  particularly 
adapted  to  the  yeast  fermentation.  The  compressed  cakes, 
however,  are  very  good  and  convenient,  one  cake  being  equal 
to  one  cup  of  good  yeast.  Yeast  is  a  plant,  and  a  very  deli- 
cate one,  that  does  not  flourish  under  extreme  heat  or  cold ; 
therefore,  you  must  be  very  choice  in  the  selection  of  the 
place  where  the  bread  shall  stand  to  ferment.  If  chilled, 
it  is  spoiled  ;  if  scalded,  it  is  killed,  and  nothing  can  restore 


BREAD  313 

it.  An  even  temperature,  from  68°  to  72°,  is  best.  In 
warm  weather,  take  the  liquid  cool ;  in  winter  blood-warm. 

As  dough  contains  both  sugar  and  gluten,  when  moist- 
ened and  subjected  to  a  temperature  of  106°  to  108°  for 
six  hours,  it  is  capable  of  fermentation ;  then,  by  adding 
more  moisture  and  flour,  and  fermenting  again,  then  baking, 
you  have  salt-rising,  or  milk-emptyings  bread,  a  sweet,  fine, 
and  delicious  bread. 

There  are  various  ways  of  making  bread — with  milk, 
water,  potatoes,  etc. ;  but  the  two  points,  sweetness  and 
lightness,  remain  always  the  chief  consideration.  If  milk 
is  used,  it  should  be  scalded  and  cooled ;  this  prevents  its 
souring.  Next  comes  the  mixing  or  sponging  of  the  bread ; 
that  is,  surrounding  each  grain  of  flour  with  a  film  of  water, 
to  combine  and  hydrate  the  starch,  to  dissolve  the  sugar 
and  albumen,  and  to  moisten  the  gluten,  which  causes  them 
to  adhere  and  form  a  dough.  This  is  not,  then,  a  mere 
mixture,  but  an  actual  chemical  combination;  but,  as  we  can- 
not use  water  enough  to  alone  effect  this,  it  must  be  supple- 
mented by  kneading,  and  here  comes  our  most  important 
point.  So  far,  this  has  been  best  accomplished  by  the  hands  ; 
all  machines  made  for  the  purpose,  that  have  come  under 
my  observation,  have  been  failures.  As  the  eye  cannot  pen- 
etrate into  the  centre  of  the  dough  to  discover  the  lumps, 
etc.,  we  have  no  guide  except  the  sense  of  touch.  The  ex- 
cellency of  bread  depends  much  upon  the  thoroughness  of 
its  kneading.  First  work  the  dough  in  the  pan  until.it 
loses  part  of  its  stickiness ;  then  thickly  flour  the  board, 
flour  the  hands,  take  out  the  dough,  and  knead  rapidly  and 
continuously  by  drawing  the  dough  farthest  from  you  over 
to  the  centre,  and  pressing  it  down  with  the  ball  of  the 
hand.  Repeat  this  several  times,  then  turn  the  dough 
around  and  knead  the  other  side,  and  so  on,  until  every 
part  is  thoroughly  and  evenly  kneaded.  This  will  take  about 


314  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  When  you  first  begin,  the  dough 
will  be  soft  and  sticky,  but  will  become  less  so  the  longer 
you  knead,  and,  when  you  can  knead  it  on  an  unfloured, 
dry  board,  the  kneading  may  be  discontinued. 

Kneading  renders  the  gluten  so  elastic  that  the  dough 
is  capable  of  expanding  to  twice  its  bulk  without  breaking 
or  cracking.  After  this,  you  stand  it  away  to  rise.  Give  it 
time  to  fully  expand,  but  be  careful  that  the  dough  does 
not  fall,  as  it  is  then  sour,  and  nothing  can  be  added  to  re- 
store the  original  sweetness.  Soda  is  sometimes  used,  but 
does  not  accomplish  the  object.  This  falling  or  souring  is 
caused  by  the  yeast  consuming  or  eating  up  every  atom  of 
flour.  If  a  handful  of  flour  be  added  to  the  dough,  and 
the  dough  then  pressed  down,  it  might  stand,  then,  perhaps 
another  hour,  or  until  this  flour  is  consumed,  without  souring. 

Next  comes  the  moulding.  After  this  dough  is  very 
light,  divide  it  carefully  into  loaves ;  knead  lightly  on  the 
board  until  formed  ;  place  each  one  in  its  own  pan  (the 
best  pans  are  made  from  sheet  iron,  eight  inches  long,  four 
wide,  and  four  deep),  and  stand  back  in  a  warm  place  until 
double  its  bulk. 

Now  comes  the  baking,  which  is  equally  important. 
There  are  several  ways  of  testing  the  oven  without  a  ther- 
mometer. One  is  the  baker's  method ;  he  throws  flour  on 
the  floor  of  the  oven  ;  if  it  browns  quickly,  without  taking 
fire,  the  heat  is  sufficient,  or  if  you  can  hold  your  hand  in 
the  oven  while  you  count  twenty  slowly,  it  is  right ;  or,  if 
you  use  a  thermometer,  360°.  The  bread  should  be  in  the 
oven  ten  minutes  before  it  begins  to  brown. 

If  the  oven  be  too  hot,  a  thick  crust  is  produced, 
forming  a  non-conducting  covering  to  the  loaf,  which  pre- 
vents the  heat  from  penetrating  to  the  interior ;  hence,  the 
burnt  loaf  is  always  unbaked  in  the  centre,  and  the  dex- 
trine is  changed  into  caramel,  thus  making  the  crust  bitter 


BREAD  315 

instead  of  sweet.  Bake  in  single  pans,  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  When  done,  remove  it  immediately  from  the  pan, 
and  tip  against  a  plate  or  bread  board,  so  that  the  air  will 
circulate  freely  around  it.  Do  not  cover,  if  you  like  a 
crisp,  sweet  crust.  When  perfectly  cold,  put  it  into  a 
sweet,  clean,  tin  bread  box,  without  any  wrapping,  as  the 
cloth  absorbs  the  moisture,  and  very  soon  sours  and  moulds, 
destroying  the  flavor  of  the  bread. 

YEAST         No.  i 

Pare  four  good-sized  potatoes,  and  let  them  lie  in  cold 
water  for  a  half-hour.  Put  one  quart  of  boiling  water  in  a 
saucepan.  Now  grate  the  potatoes  quickly  and  stir  them 
into  the  boiling  water ;  stir  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes, 
then  take  from  the  fire,  add  a  half-cupful  of  sugar,  and 
two  tablespoon fuls  of  salt,  turn  into  a  stone  jar  or  bowl, 
and  let  stand  until  lukewarm;  then  add  one  cupful  of  good 
yeast,  cover  and  ferment  three  or  four  hours ;  stir  it  down 
every  time  it  comes  to  the  top  of  the  vessel ;  then  put  it 
into  a  jar  or  large  bottle,  or  something  you  can  cover  tightly, 
and  stand  it  in  a  place  where  it  will  keep  very  cold,  but  not 
freeze.  It  will  keep  two  weeks.  Save  one  cupful  of  this 
yeast  to  start  with  next  time. 

This  is  the  simplest  and  best  yeast  that  can  be  made. 

YEAST        No.  2 

Pare  and  boil  four  good-sized  potatoes ;  when  done,  mash 
them  fine.  Put  a  half-cupful  of  dried  hops  into  one  quart 
of  water,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  Put  one  pint  of  flour 
into  a  bowl,  strain  over  it  the  boiling  hop  water,  add  the 
mashed  potatoes,  and  beat  until  smooth ;  then  add  a  half- 
cup  of  sugar,  and  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  and 
finish  the  same  as  Yeast  No.  i. 


316  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

FRENCH  BREAD 

i  quart  of  water  6  hop  flowers 

i  pound  of  potatoes  i  tablespoonful  of  salt 

i  cup  of  good  yeast  or  half  a  compressed  cake 
About  four  quarts  of  flour 

Put  the  hops  in  the  water,  and  boil  five  minutes.  Boil  the 
potatoes  in  their  skins ;  when  done,  peel  and  mash  them 
fine.  Put  three  cups  of  flour  into  the  bread  pan,  pour  one 
pint  of  boiling  water  over  it,  and  beat  quickly  until  smooth; 
add  the  mashed  potatoes,  and  then  strain  into  this  the  hop- 
water  ;  add  the  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar ;  beat 
thoroughly;  and,  when  lukewarm,  add  the  yeast ;  stand  in  a- 
warm  place  for  nine  hours,  or  over  night.  In  the  morning 
add  sufficient  flour  (about  three  and  a  half  quarts)  to  make 
a  dough;  knead  thoroughly  and  continuously  for  ten 
minutes,  using  as  little  flour  as  possible ;  then  wet  the 
hands  in  lukewarm  water,  raise  the  dough  about  three  feet 
from  the  board,  and  throw  it  back  with  force,  and  continue 
this  process  for  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  large  air  bubbles 
are  formed  in  the  dough.  If  properly  worked  the  dough 
will  be  very  elastic  and  soft,  but  will  not  stick  to  the  hands. 
Now  put  it  back  in  the  bread  pan,  cover,  and  stand  in  a 
warm  place  to  rise,  about  two  hours.  When  light,  take 
out  gently,  enough  of  this  dough  to  make  one  loaf  (about 
a  pound) ;  sprinkle  the  board  lightly  with  flour,  knead  so 
as  to  make  a  kind  of  ball ;  then  roll  it  gently  with  palms 
of  the  hands,  giving  it  an  elongated  shape ;  now  flour  a 
rolling-pin  lightly,  place  it  on  top  of  the  loaf,  right  in  the 
centre,  and  press  and  roll  a  little  to  make  a  furrow  in  the 
middle  of  the  loaf.  Now  dust  a  towel  or  bread  cloth  well 
with  flour,  place  the  loaf  just  made  upside  down  on  the 
towel,  pulling  out  the  ends  a  little  to  give  the  loaf  a  long 
form,  and  so  continue  until  all  the  loaves  arc  made ;  then 
cover  with  a  towel,  let  rise  as  ordinary  bread  ;  then  turn 


BREAD  317 

into  floured  bread  pans,  the  furrowed  side  up,  /.  e.t  the  side 
that  was  down  in  the  floured  towel  must  be  up  in  the  bak- 
ing-pan. The  loaves  must  be  a  little  distance  apart,  if  you 
place  two  in  one  pan.  Sprinkle  plenty  of  flour  on  the  top 
of  each  loaf,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven,  forty 
minutes. 

MILK  BREAD 

1  pint  of  milk  About  two  quarts  of  flour 
YZ  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a    i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

compressed  cake  i  teaspoonful  of  butter 
Scald  the  milk  and  turn  it  into  the  bread  pan,  add  the 
butter  and  salt.  When  cool,  add  the  yeast,  and  sufficient 
flour  to  make  a  thick  batter.  Beat  thoroughly  until 
the  batter  is  full  of  air-bubbles.  Cover,  and  let  stand  in  a 
warm  place  (72°  Fahr.)  until  morning.  Early  in  the 
morning  add  enough  flour  to  make  a  dough.  Take  it  out 
on  a  baking-board  as  soon  as  it  is  stiff  enough  to  do  so, 
and  knead  quickly  and  gently  until  the  dough  is  perfectly 
smooth  and  elastic,  and  will  not  stick  to  the  board  or  hands. 
Now  put  it  back  in  the  bread  pan,  cover,  and  stand  in  the 
same  warm  place,  and  let  it  rise  until  it  doubles  its  bulk. 
When  light,  turn  out  on  the  board,  divide  it  into  halves, 
mould  lightly  into  loaves,  put  them  into  greased  pans,  and 
stand  away  again  until  light.  Bake  in  a  moderately  quick 
oven  (390°  Fahr.)  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

WATER  BREAD 

Water  bread  is  made  precisely  the  same  as  Milk  Bread, 
using  tepid  water  instead  of  milk. 

MILK  BREAD  WITH  POTATO  SPONGE 

2  potatoes  i  quart  of  milk 

i  tablespoonful  of  salt        i  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a 
About  four  quarts  of  flour  compressed  cake 

Pare  the  potatoes,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of 


318  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

boiling  water,  and  boil  until  very  tender.  Put  one  cup  of 
flour  in  the  bread  pan,  pour  over  it  one  cup  of  the  boiling 
potato  water,  beat  quickly ;  mash  the  potatoes  through  a 
colander  into  this  batter,  and  beat  again  until  smooth. 
When  lukewarm,  add  the  yeast  and  salt ;  mix,  cover,  and 
stand  in  a  warm  place  (72°  Fahr.)  over  night.  In  the 
morning  scald  the  milk;  and,  when  lukewarm,  add  to  it 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  batter;  then  add  the  potato  sponge, 
mix  well,  cover,  and  stand  away  in  a  warm  place  until  very 
light.  Then  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  dough.  Take 
it  out  on  a  baking-board  as  soon  as  it  is  stiff  enough  to  do 
so,  and  knead  quickly  and  gently  until  the  dough  is  per- 
fectly smooth  and  elastic,  and  will  not  stick  to  the  board 
or  hands;  then  cut  it  into  quarters,  mould  into  loaves, 
place  each  loaf  in  a  greased  bread  pan,  cover  with  a  towel, 
and  stand  in  a  warm  place  to  rise,  until  it  doubles  its  bulk. 
Then  bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven  (390°  Fahr.)  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

STIRRED    BREAD 

Make  a  sponge  the  same  as  for  Milk  Bread,  and  let  it  stand 
over  night.  In  the  morning,  beat  it  well,  add  one  cup  of 
flour,  and  pour  it  into  greased,  deep  bread  pans.  Let  it 
stand  until  light  (about  two  hours).  Bake  in  a  moderately 
quick  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

This  makes  a  very  sweet  bread,  but  is  not  so  delicate 
as  when  kneaded. 

SALT-RISING   BREAD 

Add  to  one  pint  of  scalding  water  sufficient  flour  to  make  a 
thick  batter,  add  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  beat  until 
smooth  and  full  of  air-bubbles.  Cover  closely,  stand  in  a 
pan  of  warm  water  and  keep  in  a  warm  place  over  night. 
In  the  morning,  scald  one  pint  of  milk,  stand  aside  until 


BREAD  319 

lukewarm ;  add  a  teaspoon  ful  of  salt  and  enough  flour  to 
make  a  batter  that  will  drop,  not  pour,  from  a  spoon. 
Now  turn  into  this  the  salt  rising,  which  should  be  very 
light,  and  emit  a  very  unpleasant  odor;  beat  thoroughly 
and  continuously  for  three  minutes,  then  cover  with  a  towel, 
stand  in  a  pan  of  warm  water,  and  put  where  it  will  keep 
warm  until  very  light  (about  two  hours) ;  then  add  sufficient 
flour  to  make  a  dough ;  knead  thoroughly  and  continuously 
until  smooth  and  elastic,  divide  into  loaves,  mould,  place 
in  greased  pans,  cover  with  a  towel,  and,  when  very  light, 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.)  one  hour. 

This  must  be  kept  very  much  warmer  than  a  yeast 
bread,  or  it  will  not  rise.  It  is  thought  by  some  more 
digestible  than  any  other  kind  of  bread. 

SWEET   POTATO  BREAD 

i  quart  of  flour  i  pint  of  warm  water 

4  roasted  sweet  potatoes          i  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a 
i  tablespoonful  of  salt  compressed  cake 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Put  the  water  into  a  bread  pan  or  large  bowl,  add  the  but- 
ter, salt,  yeast  and  flour ;  beat  well,  and  stand  in  a  warm 
place  over  night.  In  the  morning,  bake  the  potatoes  and 
press  them  through  a  sieve  into  the  light  sponge,  add  flour, 
and  finish  same  as  Milk  Bread. 

RYE    BREAD 

Make  a  sponge  from  wheat  flour  as  directed  in  recipe  for 
Milk  Bread.  In  the  morning  add  sufficient  rye  flour  to 
make  a  soft  dough.  Knead  lightly;  then  cut  the  dough  in 
two  loaves,  mould,  place  in  greased  bread  pans,  cover  and 
stand  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  again.  When  light,  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.)  for  one  hour. 

Rye  bread  must  not  be  as  stiff  as  white  bread,,  and  does 
not  require  so  much  kneading. 


320  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

CORN    BREAD 

2  potatoes  i  quart  of  milk 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  salt  i  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a 

i  pint  of  yellow  corn  meal  compressed  cake 

Sufficient  flour  to  make  a  dough 

Pare  the  potatoes,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of 
boiling  water,  and  boil  until  very  tender.  Put  one  cup  of 
flour  in  the  bread  pan,  pour  over  it  one  cup  of  the  boiling 
potato  water,  beat  quickly.  Mash  the  potatoes  through  a 
colander  into  this  batter,  beat  again  until  smooth,  and  let 
stand  until  lukewarm ;  then  add  the  yeast  and  the  salt,  mix 
well;  cover  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  (72°  Fahr.)  over 
night.  Now  put  the  corn  meal  in  a  bowl  and  pour  over  it 
just  sufficient  boiling  water  to  moisten  it ;  let  it  stand  also 
over  night.  In  the  morning,  scald  the  milk  and  stand 
aside  until  lukewarm;  then  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  a 
batter  that  will  drop,  not  pour,  from  a  spoon  ;  now  add  .to 
this  the  scalded  corn  meal,  then  the  potato  mixture; 
beat  all  well  together,  then  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  a 
soft  dough;  knead  lightly,  using  just  enough  flour  to  pre- 
vent sticking;  then  divide  in  fourths.  Mould  each  fourth 
into  a  loaf,  place  each  loaf  in  a  greased  bread  pan,  cover 
and  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  light,  then  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.)  for  one  and  a  quarter  hours. 

NORWEGIAN    BREAD 

i  pint  of  barley  meal  y2  pint  of  wheat  flour 

y2  pint  of  Graham  flour  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a  compressed  cake 
Scald  the  milk  and  let  stand  until  lukewarm,  then  add  the 
salt  and  yeast,  mix,  and  add  all  the  other  ingredients. 
Beat  thoroughly  and  continuously  for  ten  minutes,  then 
turn  in*;;  a  greased  bread  pan ;  cover  with  paper  and  stand 
in  a  \,  ,p.a  place  until  very  light  and  full  of  air  bubbles, 


BREAD  321 

then  bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven  (390°  Fahr.)  for 
forty  minutes. 

GRAHAM    BREAD 

Make  a  sponge  at  night  as  directed  in  recipe  for  Milk  or 
Water  Bread.  In  the  morning  add  two  large  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  molasses  and  sufficient  Graham  flour  to  make  a  soft 
dough.  Work  well  with  the  hand,  mould  into  loaves,  put 
into  well-greased  pans,  let  it  rise  again,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.)  for  one  hour. 

Graham  bread  must  be  watched  more  carefully  than 
white  bread,  as  it  sours  quickly. 

BOSTON  BROWN  BREAD 

2  cups  of  Yankee  rye  meal         2  cups  of  Indian  meal 
i  cup  of  molasses  i  teaspoonful  of  soda  or 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt  saleratus 

\y2  pints  of  sour  milk 

Mix  the  rye  and  the  Indian  meal  well  together.  Dissolve 
the  soda  or.  saleratus  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water, 
then  add  it  to  the  sour  milk ;  add  the  molasses,  mix,  and 
pour  it  on  the  meal,  add  the  salt  and  mix  thoroughly. 
Pour  into  a  well-greased  two-quart  brown  bread  mould,  put 
the  lid  on,  and  steam  five  hours;  then  remove  the  lid,  put 
in  the  oven,  and  bake  thirty  minutes. 

ADIRONDACK   CORN  BREAD 

1  cup  of  Indian  meal         i  cup  of  flour 

5  eggs  i  tablespoonful  of  sugar 

2  ounces  of  butter  2  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of 
i  pint  of  milk  baking-powder 

Soften  the  butter  without  melting.  Beat  the  eggs  sepa- 
rately until  light,  then  add  the  yolks  to  the  rmlk,'.'"d  the 
meal  and  flour,  beat  until  smooth ;  add  the  butte\  7  mix ; 


322  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

then  add  the  sugar,  whites  of  eggs  and  the  baking-powder ; 
stir  lightly  and  swiftly.  Grease  a  broad,  shallow  pan,  turn 
in  the  mixture,  bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven  (390° 
Fahr.)  for  forty  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

HOT   CORN  BREAD 
i  quart  of  corn  meal  i  ounce  of  butter 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt  2  eggs 

i  pint  of  sour  cream  or  buttermilk 
i  teaspoonful  of  saleratus  or  soda 

Put  the  corn  meal  in  a  large  bowl,  and  pour  over  it  just 
enough  boiling  water  to  scald  it  through,  stir  thoroughly 
and  let  stand  until  cold,  then  add  the  eggs  well  beaten,  the 
cream  or  buttermilk,  salt,  and  butter;  beat  thoroughly 
from  the  bottom  of  the  bowl.  Dissolve  the  saleratus  or 
soda  in  two  tablespoon fuls  of  boiling  water,  stir  it  into  the 
mixture,  turn  quickly  into  a  greased,  square,  shallow  pan, 
put  into  a  hot  oven,  and  bake  forty  minutes. 

SOUTHERN    RICE   BREAD 

2  cups  of  white  Indian  meal  i  cup  of  cold  boiled  rice 

3  eggs  i  ounce  of  butter,  melted 
i^  pints  of  milk                        i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

2  heaping  teaspoon  fuls  of  baking-powder 
Beat  the  eggs  without  separating  until  very  light,  then  add 
them  to  the  milk;  then  add  the  meal,  salt,  butter  and  rice; 
beat  thoroughly,  add  the  baking-powder,  mix.  Grease 
three  round,  shallow  pans,  turn  in  the  mixture,  put  quickly 
in  a  hot  oven,  and  bake  thirty  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

PARKER   HOUSE  ROLLS 

i  pint  of  cold  boiled  milk  y%  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt  compressed   cake   dis- 

2  quarts  of  sifted  flour  solved  in  a  half-cup  of 
i  large  spoonful  of  lard  lukewarm  water 

i  teaspoonful  of  sugar 
Put  the  flour  into  a  deep  bowl,  add  salt  and  sugar.     Mix 


BREAD  323 

and  then  rub  in  the  lard.  Make  a  well  in  the  centre.  Mix 
the  yeast  and  milk  well  together,  pour  it  into  the  well,  and 
let  it  stand  until  morning.  Then  stir,  and  knead  thor- 
oughly, first  in  the  bowl,  and,  as  soon  as  stiff  enough,  on 
the  board.  Now  pound  it  for  fifteen  minutes  with  a  potato 
masher;  as  soon  as  it  becomes  velvety,  put  it  back  in  the 
bowl,  cover  it,  and  set  away  in  a  warm  place  (72°  Fahr.) 
until  very  light.  When  light,  roll  out  on  the  board  a  quar- 
ter-inch thick,  cut  with  a  round  cutter,  fold  one-third  over 
two-thirds,  put  on  a  greased  baking-sheet;  let  stand  again 
one  hour,  bake  in  a  quick  oven  (400°  Fahr.)  for  fifteen 
minutes. 

Remember  that  different  kinds  of  flour  require  more 
or  less  moisture.  Do  not  add  the  whole  two  quarts,  if  less 
will  answer. 

FRENCH  ROLLS 

French  rolls  are  made  in   precisely  the  same  manner  as 

French   Bread.     When   light   the  second  time,  form  into 

small  rolls  instead  of  loaves;  finish  the  same  as  the  bread. 

TEA   BISCUIT         No.  i 

1  pint  of  milk 

2  ounces  of  butter  or  lard 

^  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a  compressed  cake 

i  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

i  teaspoon  ful  of  sugar 

About  two  quarts  of  good  flour 

Scald  the  milk,  and  stand  away  until  lukewarm ;  then  add 
the  salt,  sugar,  and  butter  or  lard,  stir  until  the  butter  is 
dissolved,  then  add  the  flour,  and  beat  vigorously  for  five 
minutes;  add  the  yeast;  mix  well,  cover  with  a  towel,  and 
stand  in  a  warm  place  for  four  hours,  or  until  very  light; 
then  knead,  adding  sufficient  flour  to  prevent  sticking.  It 
must  not  be  as  stiff  as  bread.  Knead  continuously  for  ten 
minutes,  put  back  in  the  pan,  cover  again  and  stand  in  a 


324  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

warm  place  for  two  hours,  or  until  double  its  bulk.  Now 
turn  it  out  on  the  bread  board,  pinch  off  a  small  piece, 
of  the  dough,  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  knead  it  lightly 
with  the  fingers  into  a  little  ball,  place  in  a  greased  pan, 
and  so  continue  until  you  have  them  all  made.  Place  them 
far  enough  apart  (two  inches)  to  have  a  brown  crust  all 
around.  When  you  have  them  all  moulded,  cover  again, 
and  let  stand  a  half-hour,  then  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  fif- 
teen minutes. 

TEA  BISCUIT        No.  2 

i  pint  of  milk  2  eggs 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  teaspoonful  of  sugar 

2  ounces  of  butter  or  lard     3  or  more  pints  of  flour 

YZ  cup  of  yeast  or  quarter  of  a  compressed  cake 
Scald  the  milk,  add  to  it  the  butter  or  lard,  and  stand  one 
side  to  cool.  When  cool,  add  the  salt,  sugar  and  yeast; 
mix,  and  add  one-half  the  flour;  beat  continuously  for  five 
minutes,  cover  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  (72°  Fahr.)  for 
four  hours.  When  light,  add  the  eggs  well  beaten,  and 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Knead  lightly  and 
continuously  for  fifteen  minutes  or  until  elastic ;  cover 
again  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  double  its  bulk,  or 
very  light,  then  roll  out  in  a  sheet  about  a  half-inch  thick, 
cut  into  biscuits  with  a  cutter,  place  in  greased  baking-pans, 
cover,  let  stand  a  half-hour  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  (400° 
Fahr.)  for  fifteen  minutes. 

POTATO   BISCUIT        No.  i 

i  pint  of  milk  %  pound  of  butter  or  lard 

6  medium-sized  potatoes         i  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt  compressed  cake 

i  teaspoonful  of  sugar  Sufficient  flour 

Scald  the  milk.  Pare  and  boil  the  potatoes,  then  mash 
fine;  add  to  them  the  hot  milk,  butter  or  lard,  salt  and 
sugar ;  beat  until  smooth  ;  add  a  half-cup  of  flour,  stir  and 


BREAD  325 

let  stand  until  lukewarm ;  then  add  the  yeast  and  sufficient 
flour  to  make  a  thick  batter,  beat  continuously  for  five 
minutes;  cover  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  (72°  Fahr.)  for 
three  hours,  or  until  very  light.  Then  add  flour  to  make  a 
soft  dough,  knead  quickly  and  lightly  for  fifteen  minutes, 
then  roll  out  in  a  sheet  a  half-inch  thick,  cut  into  biscuits, 
place  in  greased  baking  pans  and  cover,  stand  in  a  warm 
place  until  very  light,  then  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty 
minutes.  These,  if  carefully  made,  are  delicious. 

POTATO  BISCUIT         No.  2 

i  large  potato  i  tablespoonful  of  salt 

%  yeast  cake  or  a  half-cup         i  pint  of  milk 
of  yeast  2  ounces  of  butter 

Flour  enough  to  make  a  dough 

Pare  the  potato,  and  put  it  on  to  boil  in  boiling  water. 
Put  a  half-cup  of  flour  into  a  bowl,  and  scald  it  with  a  half- 
pint  of  the  water  in  which  the  potato  was  boiled ;  stir  and  beat 
rapidly;  now  add  the  potato,  mashed,  and  the  salt;  beat 
all  thoroughly  and  let  stand  until  lukewarm,  then  add  the 
yeast,  or  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  a  half-cup  of  lukewarm 
water,  beat  well,  cover  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  about 
(72°  Fahr.)  until  light.  This  will  take  about  four  hours. 
When  this  is  light,  scald  the  milk,  add  to  it  the  butter;  and. 
when  lukewarm,  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  batter  which 
will  drop  from  the  spoon.  Now  add  the  light  mixture 
to  this,  mix  well,  cover  and  put  back  in  the  warm  place 
to  rise  (about  two  hours).  When  light,  add  sufficient 
flour  to  make  a  dough,  and  knead  as  you  would  bread  for 
about  fifteen  minutes.  Make  into  little  biscuits,  place 
them  in  a  greased  pan  so  that  they  will  not  touch  each 
other,  cover  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  one  hour.  Bake 
in  a  quick  oven  twenty  minutes.  If  you  want  these  for 
tea,  begin  them  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning. 


326  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

BREAD    BISCUITS 

Take  one  pound  of  bread  dough  when  it  is  being  moulded 
for  the  pans ;  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  butter,  chop  with  a  knife 
until  the  butter  is  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  dough.  Sprin- 
kle some  flour  on  the  baking-board  and  knead  the  dough 
for  five  minutes;  then  form  into  small  biscuits,  place  in  a 
greased  pan,  cover  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  two  hours, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty  minutes. 

RAISED  MUFFINS,  GEMS,  ETC. 

PLAIN    MUFFINS 

i  pint  of  milk  3  cups  of  flour 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter     y2  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a 

2  eggs  compressed  cake 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Scald  the  milk,  add  to  it  the  butter  and  let  stand  until 
lukewarm  ;  then  add  the  yeast,  or  the  cake  dissolved  in  a 
quarter-cup  of  warm  water,  and  salt,  and  beat  well.  Cover 
and  stand  in  a  warm  place  (65°  Fahr.)  until  morning.  In 
the  morning,  beat  the  eggs  separately  ;  add  first  the  yolks 
and  then  the  whites ;  beat  well,  let  stand  fifteen  minutes, 
and  bake  in  greased  muffin  rings  on  the  griddle  on  top  of 
the  stove,  or  in  the  oven.  This  mixture  may  also  be  baked 
in  gem  pans,  and  is  then  Wheat  Gems. 

RICE    MUFFINS 

Make  a  batter  the  same  as  for  Plain  Muffins;  after  adding 
the  flour,  beat  in  one  cupful  of  boiled  rice ;  let  stand  over 
night,  and  bake  as  Plain  Muffins. 

HOMINY  OR  GRITS  MUFFINS 

Make  and  bake  the  same  as  Plain  Muffins  ;  add  one  cup  of 
cold  boiled  grits  to  the  batter. 


BREAD  327 

ENGLISH  MUFFINS 

i  pint  of  milk  ^  cup  of  yeast  or  quarter  of 

i  ounce  of  butter  a  compressed  cake 

3  cups  of  flour 

Scald  the  milk,  add  the  butter,  and  stand  it  to  one  side 
until  lukewarm  ;  then  add  the  yeast,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
.and  the  flour,  and  beat  continuously  for  five  minutes; 
cover  with  a  towel  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  about 
tAvo  hours.  When  light,  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  soft 
dough  ;  work  lightly  with  the  hand,  divide  into  small  balls, 
place  each  ball  in  a  greased  muffin  ring,  or  deep  gem  pan, 
cover  and  let  rise  again.  Then  bake  on  a  hot  griddle,  if 
in  muffin  rings,  ^or  in  a  hot  oven  if  in  gem  pans,  until  a 
nice  brown.  When  done,  break  or  pull  them  open  ;  do 
not  cut  them,  as  a  cold  knife  makes  them  heavy. 

CRUMPETS 

i  pint  of  milk  4  ounces  of  butter 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a 
About  three  cups  of  flour  compressed  cake 
Scald  the  milk,  let  it  stand  until  lukewarm  ;  then  add  the 
salt  and  flour;  beat  vigorously;  then  add  the  butter, melted, 
and  the  yeast ;  beat  again  ;  cover  and  stand  in  a  warm 
place  until  very  light*  Grease  the  muffin  rings  and  place 
them  on  a  hot  griddle.  Fill  each  ring  half  full  of  the 
batter  ;  bake  until  brown  on  one  side,  then  turn  and  brown 
on  the  other.  Take  from  the  fire  and  stand  one  side  until 
wanted.  When  ready  to  use,  toast  them  on  both  sides, 
being  careful  not  to  burn.  Butter  them  nicely,  and  serve 
quickly  on  a  hot  plate. 

SALLY    LUNN 

i  pint  of  milk  i^  pints  of  sifted  flour 

3  eggs  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  teaspoonful  of  sugar       i  ounce  of  butter 
i  gill  of  good  yeast  or  quarter  of  a  compressed  cake 


328  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

Scald  the  milk,  add  to  it  the  butter,  and  stand  on  one  side 
until  lukewarm  ;  then  add  the  yeast,  salt,  sugar  and  flour ; 
beat  continuously  for  five  minutes,  cover  and  stand  in  a 
warm  place  for  two  hours,  or  until  very  light.  Then  beat 
the  eggs  separately  until  very  light ;  add  first  the  yolks 
and  then  the  whites ;  stir  them  in  carefully ;  stand  again 
in  a  warm  place  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  turn  into  a 
greased  Turk's  head,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven 
for  forty  minutes. 

RAISED  WAFFLES  AND   GRIDDLE   CAKES 

PLAIN    WAFFLES 

i  quart  of  sifted  flour        2  ounces  of  butter 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt        y%  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a 

3  eggs  compressed  cake 

\Y^  pints  of  milk 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  salt,  then  the  milk — 
which  should  be  scalded  and  cooled,  and  the  yeast ;  beat 
thoroughly  and  continuously  for  three  minutes ;  cover  and 
stand  in  a  warm  place  for  two  hours,  or  until  very  light. 
Then  beat  the  eggs  separately,  add  to  the  batter  first  the 
yolks  and  then  the  whites;  let  stand  fifteen  minutes.  Have 
the  wafHe-iron  gradually  and  thoroughly  heated.  Dip  a  small 
paint  brush  in  melted  suet  and  brush  the  iron  until  every 
part  is  well  greased.  Pour  the  batter  into  a  pitcher,  so  that 
you  may  fill  the  iron  quickly.  Open  the  iron,  pour  the  batter 
from  the  pitcher  into  the  iron  until  you  have  covered  the 
elevations,  close  the  iron  quickly  and  turn  it  over.  Bake 
about  two  minutes,  or  until  a  nice  brown ;  then  remove 
them  carefully,  place  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  quickly. 

RICE   WAFFLES 

Make  the  same  as  Plain  Waffles,  adding  one  cup  of  boiled 
rice  with  the  flour. 


BREAD  329 

GRITS  WAFFLES 

Make  the  same  as  Plain  Waffles,  adding  one  cup  of  boiled 
grits  with  the  flour. 

FLANNEL  CAKES 

Make  a  batter  the  same  as  for  Plain  Muffins,  using  a  gill 
more  of  milk.  Bake  on  a  hot  griddle. 

RICE  GRIDDLE  CAKES 

1  cup  of  boiled  rice  i  pint  of  milk 

2  eggs  ^  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a 
About  2^  cups  of  flour  compressed  cake 

i  large  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Scald  the  milk,  stand  to  one  side  until  cold ;  then  add  the 
yeast,  salt,  flour  and  rice  ;  beat  continuously  for  three  min- 
utes, cover,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  morning.  In 
the  morning,  beat  the  eggs  separately  until  light ;  add  first 
the  yolks,  then  the  whites ;  mix  thoroughly ;  let  stand 
fifteen  minutes,  and  bake  on  a  hot  griddle.  The  griddle 
should  always  be  placed  on  the  back  part  of  the  range  over 
night,  to  heat  gradually. 

BUCKWHEAT  CAKES 

First,  be  sure  that  you  get  perfectly  pure  buckwheat,  free 
from  grit.  The  adulterations  with  rye  injure  the  quality. 

Put  one  quart  of  cold  water  into  a  stone  jar  with  a 
small  neck,  add  to  it  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  three  and 
three-quarter  cups  of  buckwheat  flour ;  beat  well  until  per- 
fectly smooth ;  then  add  a  half-cup  of  yeast  or  half  a  com- 
pressed cake,  and  mix  well ;  cover  the  top  of  the  jar  with 
a  saucer  or  plate ;  let  stand  in  a  moderately  warm  place 
(65°  Fahr.)  until  morning.  In  the  morning,  dissolve  a  half- 
teaspoon  ful  of  saleratus  or  soda  in  two  tablespoon fuls  pf 
boiling  water,  add  this  to  the  batter,  beat  thoroughly  and 
bake  on  a  hot  griddle. 


330  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

The  saleratus  is  simply  to  improve  the  flavor. 

A  cupful  of  this  batter  may  be  saved,  and  added  to 
the  cakes  of  to-morrow  instead  of  fresh  yeast,  and  may  be 
so  continued  all  winter. 


GRANULATED  WHEAT  GRIDDLE   CAKES 

1  pint  of  milk 

2  eggs 

i/  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a  compressed  cake 

3  cups  of  granulated  wheat  (Health  Food) 
i  tablespoon ful  of  melted  butter 

i  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 

Scald  the  milk,  and  then  stand  it  one  side  to  cool ;  then 
add  the  yeast,  salt,  granulated  wheat,  and  melted  butter; 
beat  until  smooth,  cover,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  over 
night,  or  until  very  light.  Then  beat  the  eggs  until  light, 
stir  them  into  the  batter,  let  stand  fifteen  minutes,  and 
bake  on  a  hot  griddle. 


GRAHAM  GRIDDLE  CAKES 

^  quart  of  Graham  flour 

2  ounces  of  butter 
i^  pints  of  milk 

3  eggs 

YZ  quart  of  wheat  flour 
i  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 

y?,  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a  compressed  cake 
Scald  the  milk,  and  stand  it  one  side  to  cool;  then  add 
the  Graham  flour,  and  beat  until  smooth ;  add  the  butter 
(melted),  salt,  and  yeast;  beat  again,  and  stand  in  a  warm 
place  over  night,  or  until  very  light.  Beat  the  eggs  sepa- 
rately, add  first  the  yolks,  then  the  whites,  to  the  batter ; 
let  stand  fifteen  minutes,  and  bake  on  a  hot  griddle.  Very 
good. 


BREAD  331 

QUICK   MUFFINS,  WAFFLES,  GRIDDLE 
CAKES,  ETC. 

QUICK   MUFFINS 

i  pint  of  milk  2  heaping     teaspoonfuls     of 

i  ounce  of  butter  baking-powder  or  a  half- 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt  teaspoonful  of  soda  and 

3  cups  of  flour  one  of  cream  of  tartar 

3  eggs 

Beat  the  eggs  separately  until  light ;  add  the  yolks  to  the 
milk,  then  the  flour,  which  must  be  more  or  less,  according 
to  the  quality.  The  batter  must  be  thin  and  pour  from 
the  spoon.  Now  add  the  melted  butter,  and  salt ;  give  the 
whole  a  vigorous  beating.  Now  add  the  baking-powder, 
and  the  well-beaten  whites;  stir  until  thoroughly  mixed. 
Bake  in  muffin  rings  in  a  quick  oven,  or  on  the  griddle. 

GEMS 

Make  precisely  the  same  as  Quick  Muffins,  pour  into 
greased  gem  pans,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about 
twenty-five  minutes. 

CORN  GEMS 

2  cups  of  yellow  corn  meal  2  teaspoonfuls     of     baking- 

1  cup  of  flour  powder    or   a   half-tea- 

2  ounces  of  butter  spoonful  of  soda  and  a 

3  eggs  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
i  cup  of  cold  milk  tartar 

i  cup  of  boiling  milk 

Put  the  meal  into  a  bowl,  put  the  butter  in  the  centre  and 
pour  over  it  the  boiling  milk,  stir;  then  add  the  cold  milk, 
the  eggs  well  beaten,  salt,  and  flour.  Beat  well,  add  the 
baking-powder  and  mix  thoroughly.  Pour  into  greased 
gem  pans,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  thirty  minutes. 


332  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

GRAHAM  GEMS  WITH  DATES 

i  pint  of  milk  3  cups  of  Graham  meal 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt          i  cup  of  boiled  rice 
^  cup  of  chopped  dates    3  eggs 
i  tablespoon ful  of  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 

melted  butter  powder 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  add  them  to  the  milk,  then 
the  rice,  salt,  meal,  and  butter;  give  the  whole  a  vigorous 
beating.  Now  add  the  dates,  the  baking-powder,  and  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth ;  mix  carefully. 
Bake  in  gem  pans,  in  a  quick  oven,  thirty  minutes. 

GRAHAM  GEMS 

Graham  gems  are  made  precisely  the  same  as  the  preceding 
recipe,  omitting  the  rice  and  dates. 

HYGIENIC  GRAHAM  GEMS 

2  cups  of  ice-wafer          i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

3^  cups  of  Graham  meal. 

Grease  the  gem  pans  and  put  them  in  the  oven  to  get  very 
hot.  Put  the  ice-water  and  salt  into  a  large  bowl ;  take  the 
Graham  up  by  handfuls,  holding  it  high  over  the  basin, 
which  should  stand  in  a  current  of  air,  and  sprinkle  slowly 
into  the  ice-water,  beating  all  the  while ;  then  pour  the 
batter  quickly  into  the  very  hot  pans,  and  put  immediately 
into  a  very  hot  oven,  and  bake  about  thirty  minutes. 

CREAM  MUFFINS 

1  pint  of  cream  i  tablespoon  ful  of  melted 

2  eggs  butter 

3  cups  of  sifted  flour  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt  powder 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  add  them  to  the  cream  ;  add 
this  gradually  to  the  flour,  beat  well,  and  let  stand  fifteen 
minutes;  then  add  the  salt,  melted  butter,  the  whites  of 


BREAD  333 

the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  the  baking-powder; 
mix  well,  and  bake  in  gem  pans  or  muffin  rings,  in  a  quick 
oven,  twenty-five  minutes. 


BREAD  MUFFINS 

i  pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs  i  pint  of  milk 
il/i  cups  of  sifted  flour  2  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  of  melted    2  teaspoonfuls    of    baking- 
butter  powder 

Cover  the  bread  crumbs  with  the  milk,  and  soak  for  a  half- 
hour.  Beat  the  eggs  separately.  Add  the  yolks  to  the 
bread  and  milk,  then  the  melted  butter,  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  mix  all  well  together ;  add  the  flour,  beat  until 
smooth,  and  stir  in  carefully  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and 
baking-powder.  Bake  in  greased  gem  pans,  in  a  quick 
oven,  thirty  minutes. 

POP  OVERS 

2  cups  of  flour  2  cups  of  milk 

3  eggs  y2  teaspoonful  of  salt 
Grease  gem  pans  or  small  earthen  cups,  and  put  them  in 
the  oven  to  get  very  hot.     Beat  the  eggs  (without  separat- 
ing) until  very  light,  add  to  them  the  milk  and  salt;  then 
pour  this  gradually  on  the  flour,  stirring  all  the  while.     Do 
not  add  too  rapidly,  or  the  batter  will  be  so  liquid  that  it 
cannot   be  beaten   smooth.       Strain    through  a  sieve   to 
remove  any  little  lumps  that  may  remain.      Take  the  gem 
pans  or  cups  from  the  oven,  quickly  fill  them  half  full  with 
this  mixture,  put  them  in  a  quick  oven,  and  bake  about 
twenty-five  minutes. 

If  properly  made  and  properly  baked,  they  will  swell 
four  times  their  bulk,  and  make  a  most  delicious  breakfast 
cake. 


334  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

QUICK  WAFFLES 

i  pint  of  milk  2  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of 

3  cups  of  flour  baking-powder 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt       3  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  until  light,  then  add  the  milk, 
then  the  flour  and  salt ;  give  the  whole  a  good  beating — 
beat  until  smooth ;  add  the  butter,  melted,  and,  last,  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  the  baking- 
powder  ;  mix  thoroughly,  and  bake  the  same  as  Plain 
Waffles. 

RICE  WAFFLES 

Rice  waffles  can  be  made  by  either  of  the  above  recipes. 
Use  one  cup  of  boiled  rice  and  a  half-cup  less  of  flour, 
adding  the  rice  before  the  eggs. 

OATMEAL  GRIDDLE  CAKES 

i  pint  of  cold  boiled  oat-        2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
meal  powder 
i  cup  of  milk                           2  cups  of  flour 
YZ  teaspoonful  of  salt                2  eggs 

Beat  the  milk  into  the  oatmeal,  then  add  the  salt,  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  and  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  and  mix  all  well 
together ;  add  the  flour,  beat  again  ;  then  add  the  baking- 
powder  and  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth ; 
mix  well,  and  bake  on  a  griddle. 

RICE  GRIDDLE  CAKES 

1  pint  of  milk  2  cups  of  cold  boiled  rice 

2  cups  of  flour  3  eggs 

2  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder 
Press   the   rice  through  a  sieve,  add  to  it  the  eggs  well 
beaten,  then  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  then  the 
flour  and  milk  ;  beat  until  smooth,  add  the  baking-powder, 
mix  thoroughly,  and  bake  at  once  on  a  hot  griddle.     These 


BREAD  335 

may  be  made  with  yeast,  instead  of  baking-powder,  by 
adding  a  half-cup  of  yeast,  or  half  of  a  compressed  cake 
dissolved  in  a  half-cup  of  lukewarm  water,  to  the  batter,  and 
standing  in  a  warm  place  two  hours  before  baking-time. 

INDIAN  GRIDDLE  CAKES 

i  pint  of  Indian  meal         2  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of 
3  eggs  baking-powder 

i  cup  of  flour  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  pint  of  milk 

Put  the  Indian  meal  into  a  bowl,  and  pour  over  it  just 
enough  boiling  water  to  scald  it ;  do  not  make  it  soft ;  let 
stand  until  cool.  Now  add  the  milk  ;  beat  the  eggs  until 
very  light  (do  not  separate  them),  add  them  to  the  batter  \ 
then  add  the  flour  and  salt;  beat  vigorously  for  three  min- 
utes, then  add  the  baking-powder,  mix  well,  and  bake 
quickly  on  a  hot  griddle. 

QUICK    FLANNEL   CAKES 

1  quart  of  flour  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 

2  ounces  of  butter  powder 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt            3  eggs 

1^2  pints  of  milk 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  with  the  hands  until  smooth, 
then  add  the  salt.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add  them  to 
the  milk ;  add  this  to  the  flour,  and  beat  vigorously  until 
smooth  ;  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  the  baking-powder, 
and  bake  quickly  on  a  hot  griddle.  Very  nice. 

STALE  BREAD  GRIDDLE  CAKES 

i  quart  of  milk  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder 

i  pint  of  stale  bread  or  one  teaspoonful  of  cream 

crumbs  of    tartar    and    a    half-tea- 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt  spoonful  of  soda 

2  eggs  Flour  to  make  a  thin  batter 
Soak  the  bread  in   the  milk  for  one  hour,  then  beat  it 


336  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

smooth.  Beat  the  eggs  separately  until  very  light,  add  first 
the  yolks,  then  the  flour  and  salt ;  beat  again,  add  the 
whites  and  baking-powder ;  mix,  and  bake  quickly  on  a 
hot  griddle. 


BUTTERMILK  CAKES 

i  quart  of  buttermilk          Flour  to  make  a  thin  batter 

i  teaspoon ful  of  salt  i  egg 

i  teaspoonful  of  soda  or  saleratus 

Beat  the  egg,  add  to  it  the  buttermilk  ;  add  the  salt,  and 
mix  well.  Dissolve  the  soda  or  saleratus  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  boiling  water,  then  stir  it  into  the  buttermilk. 
Now  add  gradually  the  flour,  stirring  all  the  while,  until 
you  have  a  batter  that  will  pour  smoothly  from  a  spoon. 
Give  a  good  beating,  and  bake  quickly  on  a  hot  griddle. 


PANCAKES 

1  quart  of  flour  Sufficient  quantity  of  lukewarm 
4  eggs  water  and  milk  (about  half 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  of  each)   to  make  a   thin 

oil  or  melted  butter  batter    (about   one   and   a 

i  tablespoonful  of  brandy  half  pints) 

Beat  the  eggs  until  light,  add  to  them  half  the  milk  and 
water,  and  add  this  gradually  to  the  flour,  stirring  all  the 
while ;  then  add  the  oil,  brandy,  and  a  half- teaspoon  ful  of 
salt ;  mix  well,  and  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk  and 
water  ;  give  a  good  beating,  and  stand  away  in  a  cold  place 
for  three  hours.  Then  put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  stand  it  over  a  good  fire  ;  when  hot,  put  a 
ladle  of  the  batter  into  it,  spread  so  as  to  cover  the  entire 
bottom  of  the  pan.  Fry  brown  on  one  side,  then  turn  and 
brown  the  other.  Spread  with  a  thin  layer  of  preserves 
or  jam,  roll,  dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve  warm. 


BREAD  337 

CORN    GRIDDLE    CAKES 

i  quart  of  grated  corn     i  tablespoon ful  of  melted  butter 
i  cup  of  flour  4  eggs 

i  cup  of  milk  y?  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Beat  the  eggs  separately,  add  the  yolks  to  the  corn,  then 
the  milk,  then  the  flour  and  salt ;  beat  well ;  then  stir  in 
carefully  the  well-beaten  whites,  and  bake  on  a  hot  griddle. 

SODA  AND  QUICK  BISCUIT,  ETC. 

SODA    BISCUIT 

i  quart  of  sifted  flour       2  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt  powder  or  a  hal f- teaspoon - 

y?  pint  of  milk  ful   of   soda    and  one   tea- 

i  large  spoonful  of  lard  spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar 

Put  the  baking-powder,  or  cream  of  tartar  and  socb,  and 
salt,  into  the  flour,  and  sift  it  again.  Then  rub  into  this 
the  lard.  Now  see  that  the  oven  is  very  hot  (400°  Fahr.). 
Grease  the  pans,  and  get  the  cutter  and  rolling-pin.  Have 
everything  ready  before  you  put  in  the  milk,  then  add  the 
milk  and  knead  up  quickly,  Roll  out  on  the  board  one 
inch  thick ;  cut  with  a  small  round  cuttt  r,  put  quickly  into 
the  pans  and  then  into  the  oven.  Bake  twenty  minutes. 
Remember,  to  have  them  a  success,  handle  as  little,  and 
make  as  rapidly,  as  possible. 

RYE    BISCUIT 

Make  same  as  Soda  Biscuit,  using  one  pint  of  rye  flcur  and 
one  pint  of  wheat  flour,  instead  of  one  quart  of  flour. 

SHORTCAKES 

3  cups  of  sifted  flour  i  even  teaspoonful  of  bak- 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt  ing-powder 

i^  cup  of  butter  A  scant  cup  of  ice-water 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  as  quickly  and  lightly  as  possi- 


338  PHILADELPHIA    COCK  BOOK 

ble,  add  the  salt  and  baking-powder,  mix  well ;  moisten 
with  the  ice-water.  Roll  out  on  a  board  about  a  half-inch 
thick,  cut  with  a  round  cake  cutter,  put  in  greased  baking- 
pans,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  a  half-hour. 

CREAM    SHORTCAKES 

I  quart  of  flour  i  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

i  scant  teaspoonful  of  soda  j£  pint  of  thick  sour  cream 
Add  the  salt  to  the  flour.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  boiling  water,  add  it  to  the  sour  cream ;  then 
add  the  cream  to  the  flour,  mix  quickly,  and  form  into 
cakes  the  size  of  a  breakfast  plate,  and  a  half-inch  thick. 
Place  on  a  hot  griddle.  Brown  on  one  side,  then  turn  and 
brown  the  other. 

If  the  flour  is  very  heavy,  it  may  require  a  little  more 
cream  to  make  a  soft  dough. 

HOE    CAKE 

1  pint  of  corn  meal  y2  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Sufficient  water  to  make  a  batter 

Put  the  corn  meal  into  a  bowl,  and  add  the  salt ;  pour  over 
it  sufficient  boiling  water  to  just  moisten  the  meal,  and  let 
stand  ten  minutes ;  then  add  the  water  until  the  batter  will 
drop  nicely  from  a  spoon.  Bake  the  same  as  griddle 
cakes  on  a  hot  griddle  or  hoe.  When  done,  put  a  bit  of 
butter  on  the  top  of  each  cake,  and  serve. 

The  old  colored  cooks  in  the  South  used  to  make  these 
to  perfection,  and  baked  them  on  their  hoes — hence  the 
name — before  a  wood  fire. 

CORN    DODGERS 

2  cups  of  white  meal          i  tablespoonful  of  lard 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  egg 

i  tablespoonful  of  milk 

Mix  the  salt  and  meal  together  dry,  put  the  lard  in  the 
centre,  and  pour  over  enough  boiling  water  to  wet  the 


BREAD  339 

meal.  Beat  the  egg  until  very  light,  add  the  milk  and  stir 
into  the  meal.  Beat  the  whole  well.  Drop  by  tablespoon- 
fuls  on  greased  pans,  and  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven  (380° 
Fahr.)  for  fifteen  minutes. 

JOHNNY  CAKE 

i  pint  of  buttermilk  3  eggs 

i  pint  of  Indian  meal  2  tablespoon fuls  of  melted 

i  teaspoon ful  of  salt  butter 

i  teaspoonful  of  saleratus  or  soda 

Beat  the  eggs  all  together  until  light,  add  them  to  the  but- 
termilk, then  add  the  Indian  meal;  beat  well.  Dissolve 
the  saleratus  or  soda  in  two  tablespoon  fuls  of  boiling  water, 
add  this,  the  butter,  and  salt  to  the  batter,  mix  thoroughly, 
and  pour  into  a  greased,  shallow  baking-pan.  Bake  in 
a  moderately  quick  oven  for  a  half-hour. 

PONE 

Upon  one  quart  of  corn  meal  (white  is  best)  pour  just 
enough  boiling  water  to  scald  it  through;  stir  it  thoroughly, 
let  it  stand  until  cold,  then  rub  into  it  a  piece  of  butter  the 
size  of  a  walnut,  and  add  a  little  salt.  Beat  two  eggs  until 
light,  without  separating,  add  them  to  the  meal,  mix  well ; 
add  one  pint  of  sour  milk  or  buttermilk,  beat  until  smooth. 
Dissolve  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
boiling  water,  stir  it  into  the  mixture,  turn  into  a  greased 
baking-pan,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  thirty-five  min- 
utes. 

VIRGINIA   BISCUIT 

i  quart  of  sifted  flour  %  pound  of  butter 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt  Water  to  moisten 

Put  the  flour  into  a  bowl,  add  the  salt,  then  rub  the  butter 
into  it  with  the  hands,  add  the  water  gradually  until  just 
moist.  Work  and  knead  until  smooth  and  elastic.  Then 
put  the  dough  on  a  block  and  pound  it  with  an  axe  until 


340  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

full  of  bubbles.  Roll  out  as  thin  as  a  wafer,  cut  into  small 
round  cakes,  stick  with  a  fork  here  and  there  over  the  sur- 
face, and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  a  very  light  brown 
(about  five  minutes). 

MARYLAND    BISCUIT 
i  quart  of  flour  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  large  tablespoon  ful  of  lard 

Add  the  salt  to  the  flour,  then  rub  the  lard  thoroughly  into 
it  with  the  hands.  Put  a  half-pint  of  milk  and  a  half-pint 
of  water  into  a  pitcher,  add  it  gradually  to  the  flour,  stir- 
ring and  kneading  all  the  while — add  just  enough  to 
moisten  the  flour,  for  the  dough  should  be  very  stiff;  knead 
five  minutes,  and  beat  with  an  axe  thirty  minutes.  Then 
form  into  small  round  biscuits,  stick  with  a  fork  here  and 
there  over  the  surface,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  quick 
oven  about  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes.  They  should 
be  browned  on  top  and  the  sides  almost  white. 

They  should  be  as  white  as  the  driven  snow  inside, 
with  a  slight  crack  around  the  sides. 

EGG    BISCUIT 

i  quart  of  flour 

5  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  (five  ounces) 

5  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 

5  eggs 

Mix  the  flour,  sugar,  salt  and  baking-powder  together,  and 
then  sift.  Rub  the  butter  into  this,  and  then  add  the  eggs 
well  beaten;  knead  until  light  and  elastic,  cover  with  a 
damp  towel  and  let  stand  fifteen  minutes.  Then  roll  out 
into  a  sheet  a  quarter-inch  thick,  cut  with  a  small  round 
cutter.  Drop  a  few  at  a  time  into  boiling  water,  until  the 
edges  curl,  then  throw  them  into  a  pan  of  cold  water  for  a 
minute,  place  in  greased  pans  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
until  a  light  brown. 


BREAD  341 

FRITTERS,    DOUGHNUTS,  CRULLERS,   ETC. 

PLAIN  FRITTERS 

Beat  two  eggs  together  until  light,  add  to  them  one  cup  of 
milk,  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  sufficient  flour  to  make 
a  thin  batter  that  will  pour  from  a  spoon.  Beat  until 
smooth.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat;  add  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  to  the  batter,  mix  thor- 
oughly, and  drop  by  spoonfuls  into  the  hot  fat.  When 
brown  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown  on  the  other ;  take  out 
with  a  skimmer,  and  serve  very  hot.  Do  not  pierce  them 
with  a  fork,  as  it  allows  the  steam  to  escape  and  makes  the 
fritter  heavy. 

FRENCH  FRITTERS 

1  cup  of  flour 

YI  cup  of  cold  water 

2  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil 
YL  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Put  the  flour  into  a  bowl ;  beat  the  y6lks  of  the  eggs,  add 
the  cold  water  and  stir  this  gradually  into  the  flour ;  now 
add  more  water,  if  necessary,  and  give  a  good,  vigorous 
beating.  Add  salt  and  oil,  and  then  stir  in  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  put  away  for  at  least 
two  hours,  but  not  longer  than  twelve  hours.  Put  a  pan 
of  dripping  or  oil  on  to  heat;  when  hot  (360°  Fahr.),  dip 
up  a  spoonful  of  the  batter,  and  quickly  slide  it  into  the 
fat ;  when  brown  on  one  side  turn  and  brown  on  the  other. 
When  done,  take  out  with  a  skimmer,  drain  on  soft,  brown 
paper,  dredge  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve. 

Fruit  fritters  are  made  by  dipping  the  fruit  into  this 
batter  and  then  frying. 


342  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

JOLLY  BOYS 

1  pint  of  rye  meal  2  large  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
YZ  cup  of  Indian  meal  ing-powder  or  one  tea- 
Y?,  teaspoonful  of  salt                       spoonful   of    cream   of 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses         tartar,   and   a  half-tea- 
i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon  spoonful  of  soda 

i  cup  of  wheat  flour  2  eggs 

Mix  the  rye  meal,  flour,  Indian  meal,  cinnamon,  salt  and 
baking-powder  well  together;  then  add  the  eggs,  well  beaten, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses,  and  cold  water  enough 
to  make  a  very  thick  batter ;  beat  well  and  drop  by  spoon- 
fuls into  boiling  fat.  Brown  on  one  side,  then  turn  and 
brown  on  the  other.  Take  out  with  a  skimmer,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

The  batter  should  be  quite  thick,  almost  like  a  soft 
dough. 

Nun's  Butter  should  accompany  these  fritters. 


JAPANESE    FRITTERS 

Cut  stale  bread  into  slices  a  half-inch  thick,  then  cut  the 
slices  in  pieces  about  two  inches  square.  Make  a  French 
Fritter  batter,  soak  these  squares  in  the  batter  for  about  one 
minute,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  When  done,  take  out  with 
a  skimmer,  drain  on  brown  paper,  and  serve  very  hot. 

SNOW   FRITTERS 

i  egg  YZ  pint  of  milk 

il/2  cups  of  flour  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  pint  of  snow 

Beat  the  egg  until  light,  add  to  it  the  milk,  then  the  salt 
and  flour,  give  a  thorough  and  continuous  beating  for  five 
minutes.  Have  ready  a  pan  of  boiling  fat,  stir  the  snow 
lightly  into  the  batter,  drop  by  spoonfuls  into  the  boiling 
fat,  and  fry  until  a  nice  brown. 


BREAD  343 

QUEEN    FRITTERS 

Make  a  batter  and  filling  the  same  as  for  Cream  Puffs  (see 
recipe  for  Cream  Puffs).  Have  ready  a  frying-pan  of  hot 
lard.  With  two  teaspoons  roll  the  batter  into  balls  about 
the  size  of  a  hickory-nut.  As  you  make  each  ball,  drop  it 
into  the  boiling  fat,  fry  and  turn  until  they  have  swollen 
the  size  of  an  egg.  When  done,  take  out  carefully  with 
a  skimmer,  drain,  dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and  stand 
one  side  to  cool.  When  cold,  split  one  side  with  a  sharp 
knife,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  the  filling  into  the  fritter,  close, 
and  so  continue  until  all  are  filled.  Serve  cold. 

DOUGHNUTS 

i  pint  of  milk 
yz  cup  of  sugar 
Flour  sufficient  to  make  a  soft  dough 

3  eggs 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Y^  cup  of  yeast  or  half  a  compressed  cake 

2  ounces  of  butter 

Scald  the  milk,  add  to  it  the  butter  and  stand  one  side 
to  cool.  When  cool,  add  the  yeast,  sugar  and  flour ;  beat 
thoroughly,  cover,  and  stand  in  a  moderately  warm  place 
over  night.  In  the  morning,  beat  the  eggs  until  light,  stir 
them  into  the  batter ;  then  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  a 
a  soft  dough,  knead  lightly,  cover,  and  stand  away  until 
light.  When  light,  take  out  about  half  the  dough,  roll 
it  out  on  a  baking-board,  cut  into  doughnuts  with  a  large, 
round  cutter ;  then  with  a  small  cutter  make  a  hole  in  the 
centre.  Spread  a  clean  bread-cloth  over  the  kitchen  table, 
dust  it  lightly  with  flour,  place  the  doughnuts  on  this,  cover, 
and  let  stand  a  half-hour.  Then  have  ready  a  deep  kettle 
of  boiling  fat  (suet  best).  Put  the  doughnuts  into  this  fat 
upside  down  (i.  e. ,  the  side  that  was  up  on  the  table  should 


344  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

go  down  in  the  fat).  In  standing,  a  crust  forms  on  the 
surface,  which  prevents  the  doughnuts  from  becoming  light 
if  they  are  placed  in  the  fat  with  this  crust  uppermost. 
Fry  on  one  side,  then  turn  by  slipping  a  fork  through  the 
hole  in  the  centre  ;  do  not  stick  it  into  the  doughnut. 
When  done,  drain,  and  dust  with  powdered  sugar. 


BREAD    DOUGHNUTS 

Take  one  pint  of  bread  dough,  when  you  are  moulding  it 
for  the  pans,  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  lard  or  butter,  which 
cut  and  work  with  a  knife  into  the  dough,  adding  flour  to 
prevent  it  sticking  to  the  board.  When  soft  and  elastic, 
place  it  in  a  bowl,  cover,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  until 
very  light.  When  light,  roll  out  and  finish  the  same  as 
preceding  recipe. 

CRULLERS 

2  ounces  of  butter 

2  eggs 

4  heaping  tablespoon  fuls  of  sugar 
^  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 

Sufficient  flour  to  make  a  dough 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  and  nutmeg  ;  beat  again  until  light ;  then  add 
the  well-beaten  whites,  and  sufficient  flour,  gradually,  to 
make  a  dough  that  will  roll  out  on  the  board.  Roll  the 
dough  out  into  a  sheet  a  quarter-inch  thick,  cut  into  pieces 
about  two  inches  square ;  now  make  five  incisions,  cutting 
to  within  one-third  of  an  inch  at  either  end  ;  take  up  every 
other  strip  ;  fold  them  in  the  middle  and  drop  them  quickly 
into  boiling  fat.  When  brown,  drain,  dust  with  powdered 
sugar,  and  stand  away  to  cool. 


BREAD  345 

GERMAN  CRULLERS 

i  cup  of  thick,  sour  cream  i  cup  of  sugar 

3  cups  of  sifted  flour  2  eggs 

y?.  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  heaping  teaspoonful  of 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  baking-powder 

Beat  the  eggs  until  light ;  then  add  the  sugar  ;  beat  again ; 
add  the  sour  cream  ;  mix  ;  add  the  vanilla  and  salt.  Put 
the  baking-powder  into  the  sifted  flour  and  sift  again  ;  now 
add  this  to  the  other  ingredients,  mix,  roll  out  on  a  board, 
cut  with  a  large,  round  cutter  ;  then  with  a  small  cutter 
take  out  the  centres.  Drop  them  quickly  into  boiling  fat, 
brown  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown  on  the  other.  When 
done,  drain,  and  dust  with  powdered  sugar. 

To  have  these  a  perfect  success,  the  dough  must  be  as 
soft  as  you  can  possibly  handle  it. 


FRENCH    CRULLERS 

4  ounces  of  flour  2  ounces  of  butter 

1/2,  pint  of  water  4  eggs 

Cut  the  butter  into  small  pieces,  put  it  into  the  water,  and 
stand  over  a  good  fire  to  boil ;  as  soon  as  it  boils,  add  the 
flour  quickly,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  sticks  together 
and  rolls  around  in  the  saucepan  like  a  ball.  Then  take  it 
from  the  fire,  beat  thoroughly,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place 
(72°  Fahr.)  for  a  half-hour.  Then  add  one  egg  unbeaten, 
and  beat  the  mixture  until  smooth ;  then  add  another 
egg,  and  beat  again,  and  so  continue  until  you  have 
added  the  four  eggs  ;  then  beat  the  mixture  for  five  min- 
utes, cover,  and  stand  to  one  side  for  another  half-hour. 
Put  one  pound  of  lard  or  clarified  dripping  into  a  deep  fry- 
ing-pan, stand  it  on  the  fire  to  gradually  heat.  Put  one  cup 
of  powdered  sugar  on  a  dinner  plate,  add  to  it  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  ground  cinnamon ;  mix.  Now  flour  the  baking- 


346  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

board,  put  out  a  tablespoon ful  of  the  mixture,  and  roll  very 
lightly.  The  mixture  will  be  very  soft,  but  a  little  practice 
will  enable  you  to  handle  it  without  adding  much  flour. 
After  rolling  the  mixture  down  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  cut 
with  a  round  cutter,  then  take  out  a  centre  with  a  small 
cutter,  lift  carefully  with  a  cake-turner,  and  slide  into  the 
hot  fat.  Fry  brown  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown  on  the 
other.  Take  out,  drain,  then  roll  in  the  sugar  and  cinna- 
mon. 

These  are  very  troublesome  to  make,  but,  when  well 
done,  are  most  delicious. 

Points  to  be  remembered  : — 

1.  After  adding  the  last  egg,  let  the  beating  be  rapid 
and  continuous. 

2.  Have  the  fat  hot,  but  not  smoking  hot. 

3.  Use  very  little  extra  flour  in  rolling  out. 


ADDITIONAL    RECIPES  347 


348  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


ADDITIONAL    RECIPES  349 


350  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


CEREALS 


WHEAT 

We  begin  with  wheat,  which,  on  account  of  its  nutritive 
value,  and  the  universality  of  its  consumption,  is  placed  at 
the  head  of  all  cereals.  The  whole  wheat  grain  constitutes 
a  perfect  food.  It  consists  of  starch,  gluten,  sugar,  gum, 
fatty  matter,  husk,  water,  and  salts  (potash,  soda,  lime, 
magnesia,  phosphoric  acid,  etc.). 

Wheat  has  several  layers  of  bran  coats.  The  outer 
coat,  or  true  bran,  contains  silica  and  some  other  elements 
not  found  elsewhere  in  the  grain,  but  is  composed  mostly 
of  woody  fibre.  When  flour  is  unbolted  (the  bran  not 
separated),  it  is  slightly  increased  in  nutritive  value,  but  at 
the  expense  of  digestibility ;  consequently,  bread  contain- 
ing bran  should  be  rejected  by  persons  of  weak  digestion. 

Underneath  the  bran  husk  is  a  layer  of  rather  darkish 
matter,  the  gluten  cells  surrounded  by  diffused  gluten,  con- 
taining the  phosphates,  other  mineral  matters,  and  the  fatty 
matter,  which  are  bound  in  by  the  true  bran.  This  internal 
layer  also  contains  cerealine.  Beneath  this  are  the  cells 
which  form  the  central  mass,  composed  chiefly  of  starch, 
with  a  very  little  albumen  and  gluten.  This  part  crumbles 
easily  to  a  fine  dust,  and  forms  cur  fine  white  flour.  By 

this  division  it  is  seen  that  the  brain,  bone,  and  muscle- 

(350 


352  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

feeding  elements  lie   just  beneath  the  true  bran,  the  heat 
and  force-producing  elements  in  the  central  mass. 

Wheat  grown  in  different  climates  and  soils,  in  wet 
and  dry  seasons,  contains  different  proportions  of  gluten. 
The  gluten  of  wheat  is  a  gray,  elastic,  tough  substance. 
If  you  make  a  dough  of  flour  and  water,  and  work  it 
on  a  cloth  drawn  over  a  sieve,  under  a  stream  of  water, 
you  wash  away  the  starch,  and  have  remaining  this  gray, 
elastic  sheet,  closely  resembling  a  soiled  chamois  skin.  Now 
dry  it,  and  you  have  a  substance  glue-like  in  appearance, 
hence  its  name,  "gluten."  This  gluten  consists  chiefly  of 
vegetable  fibrin.  Flour-dealers  and  bakers  determine  the 
quality  of  flour  by  the  gluten  it  contains — the  more  the 
the  better.  Good  flour  should  furnish  sufficient  gluten  to 
to  enable  the  bread,  after  a  thorough  kneading,  to  swell 
three  times  its  original  bulk  ;  while  the  flour  containing 
little  gluten  is  soft  and  sticky,  and,  even  after  long  kneading, 
produces  a  soft,  flat,  and  watery  bread.  Bread  cannot  be 
made  from  pure  gluten. 

The  Health  Food  Company  make  a  most  delicious 
bread,  which  they  call  "  gluten  bread,"  but  it  also  contains 
starch. 

Macaroni  and  vermicelli  are  made  from  gluten  pastes. 
Wheat  grown  in  warm  climates  abounds  most  in  gluten,  con- 
sequently our  best  macaroni  comes  from  Italy. 

Whole  wheat  grains,  under  the  name  of  "cracked 
wheat,"  are  frequently  and  wisely  used  as  an  article  of  diet. 
This  should  be  boiled  in  a  double  boiler  until  the  envelope 
of  the  grain  is  burst  open  (about  three  or  four  hours,  or  over 
night,  on  the  back  part  of  the  fire),  then  eaten  warm  with 
sugar,  salt,  and  cream.  (See  Suitable  Combinations  of 
Food.) 

FARINA 

This  is  an  excellent  preparation,  made  from  wheat,  in  a 


CEREALS  353 

form  generally  acceptable  to  delicate  stomachs.  As  it  con- 
tains nitrogenous  matter,  it  is  superior  in  nutritive  value  to 
corn-starch  or  arrowroot  as  food  for  children.  It  is  also 
excellent  food  for  adults.  It  may  be  used  by  those  who 
find  grits  or  cracked  wheat  too  irritating. 

RYE 

This  cereal  ranks  next  to  wheat  in  nutritive  qualities.  It 
contains  more  sugar  and  less  gluten  than  wheat,  conse- 
quently has  more  heat-producing  and  less  muscle  and 
brain -feed  ing  elements.  It  contains  more  waste  material, 
therefore  it  is  more  stimulating  to  the  intestinal  canal.  It 
makes  a  good  winter,  but  poor  summer,  bread. 

BARLEY 

This  grain  is  used  mostly  for  malting  purposes.  It  is  less 
nutritive  than  wheat,  but  is  more  easily  digested,  and 
produces  a  decoction  well  adapted  to  persons  of  weak 
digestion. 

OATS 

This  grain  is  not  used  to  any  great  extent  as  an  article  of 
diet  for  man  in  this  country  Oatmeal  stands  at  the  head 
of  all  other  grains  in  point  of  flesh -producing,  force-pro- 
ducing, and  nutritive  power,  containing  the  largest  pro- 
portion of  nitrogenous  matter,  and  furnishes  the  most  ma- 
terial for  hard  work.  The  nitrogenous  matter  of  oatmeal 
resembles  casein  (the  nitrogenous  matter  of  milk)  more 
than  gluten.  It,  like  cracked  wheat,  should  be  boiled  for 
hours,  or  it  forms  a  most  indigestible  food  for  persons  of 
sedentary  habits. 

CORN 

This  grain  contains  more  heat-producing  and  fat-forming 
elements  than  wheat ;  consequently,  corn  meal  is  best 
adapted  for  a  winter  diet.  It  contains  more  than  six  times 
as  much  oil  as  wheat.  It  is  not  glutinous,  and  hence  will 


354  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

not  make  a  dough  or  fermented  bread  unless  mixed  with  a 
larger  quantity  of  wheat  flour.  In  consequence  of  the  ex- 
cess of  oily  matter  contained  in  corn  meal,  it  attracts  much 
oxygen  from  the  atmosphere,  and  is  very  prone  to  change ; 
it  will  not  keep  long.  This  quality  is  also  wonderfully 
shown  in  green  corn.  It  changes  and  loses  its  flavor 
almost  as  soon  as  picked.  It  is  very  important  that  corn 
and  corn -meal  mush  be  well  cooked. 

HOMINY 

This  is  Indian  corn  divested  of  its  germ  and  outside  skin, 
the  grain  being  left  nearly  whole. 

SAMP    OR    BREAKFAST    HOMINY 

Each  grain  is  hulled  and  broken  up  into  a  number  of  small 
pieces. 

HULLED    CORN 

This  is  corn  soaked  in  an  alkali  to  remove  the  hull.  In 
this  way  much  of  the  oil  is  lost,  and  it  therefore  makes  a 
good  summer  food. 

RICE 

Rice  is  richest  in  starch,  and  most  deficient  in  oil,  of  all 
the  cereals.  It  is  the  most  digestible  of  vegetable  foods. 
Its  nutritive  value,  however,  is  not  equal  to  wheat,  because 
it  is  chiefly  starch. 

BUCKWHEAT 

This  grain  is  inferior  to  wheat  in  nutritive  value,  containing 
more  heat-producing  food,  and  not  half  the  muscle  or 
brain-food.  Eaten  alone,  therefore,  it  is  valueless  as  food. 

CRACKED  WHEAT 

i  quart  of  water  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

6  tablespoonfuls  of  cracked  wheat 

Mix  the  wheat,  water,  and  salt  together  ;  put  this  in  the 
farina  boiler,  and  boil  four  hours,  or  over  night,  on  the 
back  part  of  the  stove.  Serve  warm,  with  sugar  and  cream. 


CEREALS  355 

FARINA 

Add  one  teaspoon ful  of  salt  to  one  quart  of  water  or  milk, 
and  then  sift  in,  slowly,  sufficient  Hecker's  Farina  to  make 
a  gruel.  Stir  and  boil  slowly  for  thirty  minutes.  Serve 
with  sugar  and  cream. 

RYE  MUSH 
i  quart  of  boiling  water          i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

5  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  rye  meal 

Sift  the  meal  into  the  boiling  water,  stirring  all  the  while ; 
add  the  salt;  stir  until  it  boils  again;  cover,  and  cook 
slowly  one  hour.  Serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

BOILED  BARLEY 

Wash  the  barley  through  several  cold  waters,  then  cover 
with  cold  water;  bring  quickly  to  a  boil ;  boil  five  minutes; 
drain,  cover  with  fresh  boiling  water,  and  boil  slowly  four 

hours. 

OATMEAL 

i  quart  of  boiling  water         i  teaspoonful  of  salt 
4  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  Akron  or  Irish  oatmeal 
Put  the  oatmeal,  water,  and  salt,  into  a  farina  boiler;  stir 
until  the  salt  is  dissolved,  and,  if  you  want  it  for  breakfast, 
stand  it  on  the  back  part  of  the  fire  over  night.       In  the 
morning,  stand  it  over  a  hot  fire,  and  let  it  boil  one  hour 
without  stirring.      Then  turn  out  carefully,  so  as  not  to 
break  the  grains.     Serve  with  cream. 

HULLED  CORN     (Mrs.  Adams) 

Put  two  handfuls  of  clean  hard-wood  ashes  in  two  quarts 
of  cold  water;  boil  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes;  let  stand 
until  the  ashes  settle  and  the  water  is  perfectly  clear.  To 
this  cleansed  water  (it  should  be  strong  enough  of  the  lye 
to  feel  a  little  slippery),  add  as  much  cold  water  as  is  neces- 
sary to  cover  the  corn.  Put  the  corn  in  the  water;  let  it 
boil  until  the  hulls  begin  to  start,  then  skim  the  corn  out 
into  a  pan  of  clear,  cold  water,  and  rub  thoroughly  with 


356  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

the  hands,  to  remove  the  hulls  and  cleanse  the  corn  from 
the  lye, — rub  it  through  two  or  three,  or  even  four,  waters, 
that  there  maybe  no  taste  of  lye;  then  put  into  clear  water 
and  boil  until  tender. 

BOILED  RICE 

Wash  one  cup  of  rice.  Put  three  quarts  of  boiling  water 
into  a  kettle,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  let  it  boil 
rapidly ;  sprinkle  in  the  rice  so  gradually  that  you  will  not 
stop  the  boiling.  When  you  have  it  all  in,  give  the  water 
a  twirl  with  a  fork,  cover  the  kettle,  and  boil  rapidly 
twenty  minutes.  Then  pour  into  a  colander  to  drain. 
Place  the  colander  on  a  tin  dish ;  stand  it  in  the  oven 
for  five  minutes,  to  dry,  leaving  the  door  wide  open  ;  then 
turn  it  carefully  into  a  heated  dish.  Serve  without  a  cover. 
Points  to  be  remembered  : — Boil  rapidly  from  the  time 
you  cover  the  kettle  till  you  take  it  off.  The  rapid  boiling 
allows  each  grain  to  swell  three  times  its  normal  size,  and 
the  motion  prevents  the  grains  from  sticking  together. 
Do  not  stir  it,  as  this  will  cause  it  to  fall  to  the  bottom  of 
the  kettle,  and  burn.  The  drying  in  the  oven  with  the 
door  open  evaporates  the  moisture,  leaving  the  rice  soft, 
snowy  white,  and  perfectly  dry. 

TO    MAKE   A    RICE    BORDER 

Wash  one  cup  of  rice  in  cold  water,  and  drain  it.  Put  it 
in  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of  boiling  stock.  Boil  rapidly 
for  fifteen  minutes,  then  stand  it  over  a  very  moderate  fire 
to  steam  (not  boil)  for  twenty  minutes  longer;  drain, 
season  with  salt  and  black  pepper,  and  press  into  a  well- 
buttered  border  mould.  Then  put  it  in  the  oven  and  bake 
fifteen  minutes.  Take  out ;  place  a  dish  on  the  mould ; 
turn  it  upside  down,  and  remove  the  mould. 

The  hollow  space  in  the  centre  may  be  filled  with  a 
white  or  brown  fricassee  of  chicken  or  a  curry. 


CEREALS  357 

BOILED    RICE      Italian  Style 

Wash  one  cup  of  rice  in  cold  water,  and  drain  it.  Have  a 
three-quart  kettle  nearly  full  of  boiling  water;  add  to  it  a 
slice  of  bacon,  a  tablespoon ful  of  grated  Parmesan,  and  a 
pinch  of  saffron ;  add  the  rice  gradually,  and  finish  accord- 
ing to  the  recipe  for  Boiled  Rice. 

Remove  the  bacon  before  serving. 

RICE   CROQUETTES        No.  I 

i  pint  of  milk  ^  cup  of  rice 

Yolks  of  two  eggs  2  large  tablespoon  ful  s  of  sugar 

yi  teaspoon  ful  of  vanilla  ^  cup  of  raisins 
%  cup  of  currants  %  cup  of  citron 

Wash  the  rice  and  put  it  in  a  farina  boiler  with  the  milk, 
and  boil  until  very  thick;  now  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
and  the  sugar;  beat  until  smooth.  Take  from  the  fire,  add 
the  vanilla,  and  the  fruit  well  floured.  Turn  out  on  a  dish 
to  cool.  When  cold,  form  in  pyramids;  dip  first  in  beaten 
egg,  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  oil  or  fat. 

Put  a  small  piece  of  currant  jelly  on  the  top  of  each 
croquette ;  dust  the  whole  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve 
with  Vanilla  Sauce. 

This  quantity  will  make  twelve  croquettes. 

RICE    CROQUETTES         No.  2 
i  quart  of  milk  i  cup  of  rice 

Salt  and  white  pepper  to      i  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
taste  parsley 

Yolks  of  four  eggs 

Wash  the  rice  and  put  it  in  a  farina  boiler  with  the  milk ; 
boil  about  one  hour,  or  until  very  thick  ;  then  beat  until 
smooth ;  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  cook  ten  minutes 
longer.  Take  from  the  fire  ;  add  the  parsley  and  seasoning; 
mix  well,  turn  out  on  a  plate,  and  stand  away  until  very  cold. 
Then  form  into  cylinders;  dip  first  in  beaten  egg,  then  in 
bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  oil  or  fat. 


MACARONI 


Macaroni,  as  an  article  of  food,  is  rather  more  valuable 
than  bread,  as  it  contains  a  larger  proportion  of  gluten. 
It  is  the  bread  of  the  Italian  laborer.  In  this  country,  it  is 
a  sort  of  a  luxury  among  the  upper  classes;  but  there  is  no 
good  reason,  considering  its  price,  why  it  should  not  enter 
more  extensively  into  the  food  of  our  working  classes. 

In  selecting,  choose  that  of  a  brownish  color,  rather 
than  the  pure  white. 

Spighetti  is  the  most  delicate  form  of  macaroni  that 
comes  to  this  country. 


MACARONI  a    1'  ITALIENNE 

y±  pound  of  macaroni  y%  pint  of  milk 

*4  pound  of  grated  cheese     Butter  the  size  of  a  walnut 
Salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste 

Break  the  macaroni  in  convenient  lengths.  Put  it  in  a  two- 
quart  kettle  and  nearly  fill  the  kettle  with  boiling  water; 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  boil  rapidly  twenty-five  min- 
utes; then  drain;  throw  into  cold  water  to  blanch  for  ten 
minutes.  Put  the  milk  into  a  farina  boiler ;  add  to  it  the 
butter,  then  the  macaroni  and  cheese  ;  stir  until  thoroughly 

heated,  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 
(358) 


MACARONI  359 

BAKED    MACARONI 

%  pound  of  macaroni  ^  cup  of  cream 

Y^  pound  of  grated  cheese        i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Salt  and  pep{>er 

Break  the  macaroni  in  convenient  lengths,  put  it  in  a  two- 
quart  kettle  and  nearly  fill  the  kettle  with  boiling  water ; 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  rapidly  twenty-five  min- 
utes (the  rapid  boiling  prevents  the  macaroni  from  sticking 
together) ;  drain  in  a  colander ;  then  throw  into  cold  water 
to  blanch  for  ten  minutes;  then  drain  again  in  the  colan- 
der. Put  a  layer  of  the  macaroni  in  the  bottom  of  a  bak- 
ing-dish ;  then  a  layer  of  cheese,  then  a  sprinkling  of  salt 
and  pepper,  then  another  layer  of  macaroni,  and  so  con- 
tinue until  all  is  used,  having  the  last  layer  macaroni.  Cut 
the  butter  in  small  bits ;  distribute  them  evenly  over  the 
top;  add  the  cream  and  bake  until  a  golden  brown  (about 
twenty  minutes)  in  a  moderately  quick  oven.  Serve  in  the 
dish  in  which  it  was  baked. 

CREAM  MACARONI 
(Mrs.  S.  W.  R.  Williams,  of  Philadelphia) 
For  a  dish  holding  three  pints,  one-half  pound  of  spighetti 
will  be  required.  Have  ready  a  kettle  full  of  boiling  salted 
water.  Take  the  spighetti  all  up  together,  in  the  long 
sticks,  without  breaking.  Hold  the  ends  in  the  boiling 
water;  in  an  instant  it  will  go  down  into  the  water.  Whirl 
it  round  and  round  with  a  fork  to  thoroughly  separate  it, 
then  allow  it  to  boil  hard  for  twenty  minutes.  When  done, 
put  it  in  a  colander,  and  pour  cold  water  through  it  (this 
is  called  blanching).  After  it  is  drained,  put  it  into  the 
dish  in  which  it  is  to  be  baked. 

FOR    THE    CREAM    GRAVY 

Put  one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  double 
boiler.  While  it  is  boiling,  stir  smoothly  together  three 


360  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

tablespoon fuls  of  flour  and  three  scant  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter.  When  smooth,  stir  carefully  into  the  boiling  milk, 
and  continue  stirring  for  a  few  moments  until  it  thickens. 
Then  stir  into  it  three  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese. 
Parmesan  is  best,  but  any  strong  cheese  will  answer.  Pour 
it  over  the  macaroni  in  the  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  more 
cheese  over  the  top,  and  put  in  the  oven  to  brown.  The 
macaroni  may  be  boiled  and  arranged  in  the  dish;  the  cream 
gravy  made,  all  but  adding  the  cheese,  and  put  in  a  covered 
saucepan  in  the  bain-marie  to  keep  hot;  do  not  put  them 
together  until  just  as  you  are  ready  to  put  them  into  the 
oven,  as  the  cream  will  curdle  if  allowed  to  stand  on  the 
macaroni.  If  yxm  do  not  chance  to  have  a  silver  baking- 
dish,  fold  a  napkin  cornerwise  and  over  and  over  until  it 
is  the  proper  width  for  your  dish,  then  fasten  it  around  the 
dish ;  stand  the  dish  in  a  pretty  plate  before  sending  it  to 
the  table. 


MACARONI    WITH    TOMATO    SAUCE 

^  pound  of  spighetti 
i  tablespoon ful  of  flour 
i  large  tablespoonful  of  butter 
y<z  pint  of  stewed  tomatoes 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Take  a  handful  of  the  long  sticks ;  put  the  ends  into  boil- 
ing salted  water;  as  they  soften,  bend  and  coil  the  spighetti 
in  the  water  without  breaking  it.  Boil  rapidly  twenty  min- 
utes. When  done,  put  it  in  a  colander  to  drain,  then  stand 
the  colander  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  to  melt ;  add  to  it  the  flour ; 
mix  until  smooth;  then  add  the  tomatoes  (strained),  and 
stir  continually  until  it  boils.  Now  carefully  add  the 
spighetti,  let  it  boil  up  once,  and  serve  without  cutting. 


MACARONI  361 

MACARONI   WITH    CREAM    SAUCE 
Boil  the  macaroni  as  directed    in  the    preceding  recipe. 
When  done,  put  it  in  a  colander  to  drain.     Then  put  into 
a  heated  dish,  and  pour  over  it  Cream  Sauce. 

MACARONI    CROQUETTES 

6  ounces  of  macaroni  1/2  pint  of  milk 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter         2  tablespoon fuls  of  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated        Yolks  of  three  eggs 

cheese  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Break  the  macaroni  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long.  Put 
it  in  a  kettle  nearly  full  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  rapidly 
twenty-five  minutes.  When  done,  put  it  in  a  colander  to 
drain,  then  into  cold  water  for  fifteen  minutes;  drain  again, 
and  then  cut  it  in  pieces  a  half-inch  long.  Put  the  milk  on 
to  boil.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  until  smooth;  stir 
into  the  milk  when  boiling,  and  stir  continually  until  it 
thickens;  then  add  the-cheese  and  macaroni,  salt,  pepper, 
and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs;  cook  one  minute  longer ;  then 
turn  out  on  a  plate  to  cool.  When  cold,  form  into  cone- 
shaped  croquettes ;  roll  first  in  egg  and  then  in  bread 
crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Serve  with  Cream  Sauce. 

PLAIN    BOILED  MACARONI 

y2  pound  of  macaroni         i  large  tablespoonful  of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Break  the  macaroni  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long. 
Nearly  fill  a  two-quart  kettle  with  boiling  water;  add  to  it 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  throw  in  the  macaroni,  and  boil  rap- 
idly thirty  minutes.  Then  put  it  into  a  colander  to  drain  ; 
return  it  to  the  kettle,  add  a  pint  of  boiling  water  ;  salt  and 
pepper.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  until  smooth ; 
then  stir  it  into  the  boiling  macaroni,  and  stir  continually 
until  it  thickens. 


362  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

MACARONI    WITH    BROWN  SAUCE 

]^  pound  of  macaroni  2  tablespoon fuls  of  Parmesan 

i  quart  of  stock  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Break  the  macaroni  in  pieces  two  inches  long.  Put  the 
stock  on  to  boil.  When  boiling,  add  the  macaroni  and 
boil  rapidly  for  thirty  minutes.  When  done,  put  it  in  a 
colander  to  drain.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a 
frying-pan  ;  and,  when  brown,  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour;  mix  until  smooth;  then  add  a  half-pint  of  stock  and 
stir  continually  until  it  boils;  add  the  cheese,  then  the 
macaroni,  and  let  it  boil  up  once.  Season  to  taste,  and 
serve. 

MACARONI    TIMBALE 

6  ounces  of  cooked  ham,  chopped  fine 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  bread  crumbs 

i  tablespoonful  of  stock 

i  egg 

i  teaspoonful  of  mushroom  catsup 

1  teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce 

2  ounces  of  macaroni  boiled  and  cut  in 

pieces  one  inch  long. 

Mix  the  crumbs  and  meat  well  together;  then  add  the 
stock,  seasoning  and  sauces;  mix,  and  add  the  egg,  well 
beaten.  Grease  a  plain  pudding  mould,  and  line  it  with 
the  boiled  macaroni;  fill  with  the  mixture,  and  press  in 
compactly.  Put  the  lid  on  the  mould  and  fasten  it.  Then 
stand  the  mould  in  a  kettle,  with  sufficient  boiling  water 
to  about  two-thirds  cover  it.  Now  put  the  lid  on  the  kettle, 
and  boil  for  one  hour.  When  done,  turn  it  from  the 
mould,  pour  Cream  Sauce  around  it,  and  serve. 


CHEESE  AND  NOODLES 


Cheese  may  be  regarded  as  our  most  concentrated  food. 
It  contains  almost  twice  as  much  nutriment  as  any  other 
known  substance.  Being  difficult  of  digestion,  it  should 
be  taken  only  in  small  quantities.  Old  cheese,  being  in  a 
state  of  decomposition,  taken  after  a  hearty  meal,  mingling 
with  the  contents  of  the  stomach,  will  aid  digestion  by 
exciting  fermentation. 

Cooked  or  melted  cheese  forms  a  most  valuable  and 
nutritious  food,  and  is  much  more  easily  digested  than  when 
eaten  raw.  Mattieu  Williams  says :  "  I  regard  it  as  the 
most  important  of  all  that  I  have  to  describe  in  connection 
with  my  subject — the  'Science  of  Cookery.'  Its  cookery  is 
singularly  neglected — is  practically  an  unknown  art — espe- 
cially in  this  country ;  and  all  that  is  required  to  render  it, 
next  to  bread,  the  staple  food  of  Britons,  is  scientific 
cookery." 

CHEESE  SOUFFLE     (Williams) 

J(  pound  of  cheese  i  gill  of  milk 

%  teaspoonful  of  bi-carbon-  i  teaspoonful  of  flour  of 
ate  of  potash  mustard 

i  sal tspoon  of  white  pepper  i  grain  of  cayenne 

y$  part  of  a  nutmeg,  grated  2  ounces  of  butter 

3  eggs  2  tablespoonfuls  baked  flour 

Chop  the  cheese ;  add  the  potash  to  the  milk,  then  add  the 

(363) 


364  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

cheese,  mustard,  pepper,  cayenne  and  nutmeg ;  rub  the 
butter  and  flour  together  and  add  that.  Heat  this  care- 
fully until  the  cheese  is  dissolved.  Then  beat  the  eggs, 
yolks  and  whites  together,  and  add  them  to  this  solution  of 
cheese,  stirring  the  whole.  Now  take  a  shallow  metal  or 
earthenware  dish  or  tray,  that  will  bear  heating,  and  put  a 
little  butter  on  it,  and  heat  the  butter  until  it  frizzles. 
Then  pour  the  mixture  into  the  tray,  and  bake  or  fry  until 
nearly  solidified. 

TOASTED  CHEESE  OR    SCOTCH   RARE-BIT 

y<z  pound  of  rich  cheese  4  slices  of  bread 

Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Cut  the  cheese  into  very  thin  slices,  spread  it  on  a  heated 
flat  dish,  and  stand  it  over  boiling  water  to  melt.  While 
this  is  melting,  toast  the  bread,  and  butter  it ;  place  it  on 
a  hot  dish,  add  the  seasoning  to  the  cheese,  and  spread  it 
over  the  toast.  Serve  very  hot. 

WELSH    RARE-BIT 

2  cups  of  grated  cheese     j^  cup  of  milk 

Yolks  of  two  eggs  Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Toast  carefully  square  slices  of  bread  with  the  crusts  re- 
moved ;  while  hot,  butter  them,  and  then  plunge  in  a  bowl 
of  hot  water.  Place  on  a  heated  dish  and  stand  in  the 
oven  to  keep  warm  while  you  make  the  rare-bit.  Put  the 
milk  into  a  porcelain-lined  or  granite  saucepan ;  stand  it 
over  a  moderate  fire ;  when  boiling  hot,  add  the  cheese  ; 
stir  continually  until  the  cheese  is  melted  ;  add  the  salt, 
cayenne  and  yolks,  and  pour  it  over  the  toasted  bread. 

If  the  rare-bit  is  stringy  and  tough,  it  is  the  fault  of 
the  cheese  not  being  rich  enough  to  melt. 

Old  English  dairy  cheese  makes  the  best  Welsh  rare-bit. 


CHEESE  365 

GOLDEN  BUCK 

2  cups  of  grated  cheese 
i^  teaspoon  ful  of  mustard 

i  dash  of  cayenne 

i  cup  of  milk 
.  y?  teaspoonful  of  salt 

6  squares  buttered  toast 

6  poached  eggs 

Put  the  milk  cm  to  boil  in  a  porcelain  or  granite  saucepan  ; 
add  to  it  the  cheese,  mustard,  salt  and  cayenne;  stir  con- 
stantly until  the  cheese  is  melted.  Have  ready  the  toast, 
pour  enough  of  the  cheese  over  each  piece  to  cover  it,  put 
a  poached  egg  carefully  on  the  top  of  each  piece,  dust 
lightly  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve  immediately. 


CHEESE  FINGERS 

Roll  out  puff  paste  into  a  thin  sheet ;  brush  it  over  lightly 
with  ice-water,  cut  into  strips  about  five  inches  long  and  a 
half-inch  wide ;  sprinkle  over  them  grated  cheese,  put  one 
strip  over  the  other,  lay  on  a  greased  tin  sheet,  and  bake  in 
a  quick  oven  fifteen  minutes. 

CHEESE  STRAWS 

2  ounces  of  flour  A  little  cayenne 

3  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan    A  little  salt 

Yolk  of  one  egg 

Mix  the  flour,  cayenne,  salt  and  cheese  together,  and 
moisten  with  the  egg  ;  work  all  into  a  smooth  paste.  Roll 
out  on  a  board,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  five  inches 
wide,  and  five  inches  long.  Cut  some  of  the  paste  in 
small  rings,  and  some  in  strips  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
wide.  Place  both  on  greased  sheets  and  bake  ten  minutes 
in  an  oven  (240°  Fahr.)  till  a  light  brown.  Put  the  straws 
through  the  rings  like  a  bundle  of  sticks. 


366  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

CHEESE   RAMAKINS     (Henderson) 

4  tablespoon fuls  of  grated     2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 

cheese  2  ounces  of  bread 

i  gill  of  milk  y$  teaspoonful  of  mustard 

Yolks  of  two  eggs  Whites  of  three  eggs 

Cayenne  and  salt  to  taste. 

Put  the  bread  and  milk  on  to  boil.  Stir  and  boil  until 
smooth;  then  add  the  cheese  and  butter.  Stir  over  the 
fire  for  one  minute ;  take  off,  add  seasoning  and  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  them 
in  carefully.  Pour  into  a  greased  baking-dish,  and  bake 
fifteen  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 

SCHMIER-KASE 

This  is  made  from  clabbered  milk.  After  taking  the  cream 
from  the  top  of  a  pan  of  thick,  sour  milk,  stand  the  pan 
on  the  back  part  of  the  range,  and  pour  over  it  about  three 
quarts  of  boiling  water ;  then  turn  the  whole  into  a  bag 
to  drain.  Hang  it  in  a  cool  place  over  night.  When  ready 
to  use,  mix  and  beat  it  until  light ;  add  salt,  pepper  and 
sufficient  sweet  cream  to  make  it  the  proper  consistency. 
Serve  very  cold.  This  is  also  called  cottage-cheese. 

CREAM  CHEESE  WITH  NOODLES 

Put  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  in  z.  plate.  Make  a 
well  in  the  center,  put  into  it  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  a 
quarter- teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  the  flour  gradually  into 
the  yolks.  Work  until  the  dough  thus  produced  is  perfectly 
free  from  stickiness;  now  roll  it  out  into  a  very  thin  sheet, 
place  it  on  a  napkin,  and  hang  in  the  air  a  minute  to  dry ; 
then  roll  tightly  and  cut  into  fine  noodles;  shake  out  again 
to  dry.  When  dry,  cover  with  boiling  water ;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  Drain,  turn  in  a 
hot  dish,  and  pour  over  a  Welsh  Rare-bit  (page  364). 


TO  COOKS 


On  first  going  into  a  new  family,  make  friends  with  the 
other  servants,  as  they  will  acquaint  you  with  the  customs 
of  the  house.  Be  especially  kind  to  the  waitress  or  waiter,  as 
from  either  you  can  find  out  how  your  dishes  are  received 
in  the  dining-room,  and  this  will  enable  you  to  rectify  many 
mistakes  and  learn  the  peculiar  family  tastes;  that  is, 
whether  or  not  they  like  onion,  cayenne,  or  much  sugar, 
and  many  other  small  points  that  will  greatly  assist  you, 
and,  as  you  are  not  cooking  to  suit  your  own  taste,  but  that 
of  your  employers,  study  well  these  small  points.  Give 
your  whole  time  and  attention  to  your  work.  Make  the 
most  simple  dish  appetizing  and  nutritious. 

Save  all  materials  left  over  from  meals,  as  they  will 
help  to  make  a  little  side  dish  for  to-morrow's  breakfast  or 
luncheon. 

Have  regular  days  for  each  kind  of  work.  Keep  every- 
thing in  its  proper  place,  which  should  be  a  convenient  one, 
selected  by  yourself,  and  remember  that  no  matter  how 
great  the  hurry,  it  requires  no  more  time  to  put  things 
back  in  their  proper  places  than  to  stand  them  down  hap- 
hazard. 

Study  the  draughts  of  your  range.    Keep  in  mind  that 

a  red  top  always  indicates  a  cool  oven.     Close  the  damp- 

(367) 


368  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

ers,  and  this  will  throw  the  heat  around  the  oven.  Pull  the 
dampers  out  only  when  you  wish  the  heat  or  gas  to  escape 
into  the  chimney.  "  Fix  "  your  fire  as  soon  as  breakfast 
is  over.  Open  the  draughts  and  dust  damper,  rake  the 
fire  well,  until  free  from  every  particle  of  ashes;  then 
open  the  top  and  brush  the  soot  and  the  small  pieces  of 
coal,  if  any,  from  the  top  of  the  oven  into  the  fire.  See 
that  the  corners  are  free  from  ashes,  and  fill  the  fire-box 
even  full  with  coal ;  that  is,  just  to  the  tops  of  the  fire- 
bricks, and  close  the  dust  damper.  If  you  add  more  coal 
than  this,  you  cut  off  the  upper  draught,  and,  of  course, 
lose  much  heat.  Now  clean  out  the  ashes,  and  carry  them 
away.  Dust  the  range  or  stove,  and  polish  it  while  cool. 
A  paint-brush  makes  a  very  nice  brush  for  putting  on  the 
polish.  Watch  the  fire  carefully,  allowing  it  to  burn 
briskly  until  the  blue  flames  appear  on  the  surface,  and 
then,  if  you  are  not  going  to  use  it  immediately,  open  the 
top  (the  dampers  being  out),  and  thus  keep  it  in  good  con- 
dition until  wanted.  Always  take  off  the  draughts  as  soon 
as  you  have  finished  a  meal,  thereby  saving  labor  and  fuel. 
The  best  ranges  are  ruined,  and  large  quantities  of  coal  are 
wasted  daily  by  filling  the  ranges  too  full  and  leaving  the 
draughts  open  to  burn  like  a  fiery  furnace. 

Use  everything  for  its  proper  purpose.  Do  not  strain 
the  bouillon  or  soup  through  the  finest  napkin,  when  there 
are  soup-strainers  hanging  in  the  kitchen. 

Let  your  dress  be  simple  and  neat,  your  head  perfectly 
smooth  and  tidy.  A  white  linen  cap,  that  can  be  washed 
every  week,  will  keep  the  odors  from  your  hair,  and  add  to 
your  tidy  appearance.  Keep  yourself  and  kitchen  as  clean 
as  possible  ;  make  no  dirt,  and  thereby  save  yourself  the 
trouble  of  constant  cleaning.  Never  use  your  hands  when 
a  knife  or  a  spoon  will  answer. 

As  every  one  likes  variety,  do  not  serve  the  same  dish 


TO    COOKS  869 

twice  in  one  week  unless  it  be  a  vegetable  ;  nor  do  I  like  the 
way  of  serving  certain  dishes  the  same  day  every  week, — 
for  instance,  beef  on  Monday,  chicken  on  Tuesday,  etc. 
In  this  way  the  family  anticipate,  and  it  spoils  the  true  en- 
joyment of  their  meals. 

Never  give  "  things  "  out  the  alley  gate  unless  you  are 
told  by  the  mistress  to  do  so. 

If  your  mistress  finds  fault,  bear  it  patiently  ;  it  is  she, 
and  not  yourself,  for  whom  you  are  working,  and  it  is  your 
whole  duty  to  please  her.  One  rude  answer  might  cost  you 
a  good  situation.  Receive  your  orders  attentively.  If  you 
cannot  rely  upon  your  memory,  have  a  slate  and  write  them 
down.  This  slate  will  also  answer  for  memorandums  of 
things  wanted. 

Visit  the  cellar  every  morning.  See  if  the  meat  and 
poultry  are  keeping  properly.  Look  at  the  stock.  In  fact, 
examine  all  the  eatables  to  see  if  they  require  cooking. 

Clean  your  refrigerator  twice  a  week,  if  it  has  a  metal 
lining ;  if  a  "  Ridgway,"  once  a  week  is  quite  sufficient. 

Be  scrupulously  particular  about  the  care  of  food  and 
utensils.  Dry  your  saucepans  before  putting  them  away, 
that  they  may  not  rust.  Wash  all  knives  and  forks,  without 
wetting  the  handles,  quickly  after  using  them.  If  you  use 
copper  utensils,  see  that  the  tin  lining  does  not  become 
worn  off ;  if  it  does,  have  it  instantly  repaired. 

Throw  jelly-bags,  pudding-cloths,  and  strainer-cloths 
into  clear  warm  water  immediately  after  using  them.  As 
soon  as  you  have  leisure,  wash  them  through  several  waters  ; 
if  they  are  greasy,  use  borax  ;  scald  them,  rinse  well,  and 
hang  to  dry.  When  thoroughly  dry,  fold  neatly  and  put 
away  in  their  proper  places. 

Always  keep  a  brush  for  your  sink,  another  for  the 
baking-boards  and  other  clean  purposes,  another  small  one 
for  pots  and  pans.  Pour  boiling  soda-water  down  your 


370  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

sink  every  morning ;  this  prevents  the  drain  from  being 
clogged  with  grease.  Never  drain  onion  or  cabbage  water 
down  the  kitchen  sink,  as  in  that  way  the  house  is  per- 
meated with  the  odor. 

If  a  dinner-party  is  in  prospect,  ask  early  for  the  bill 
of  fare,  and  prepare  as  many  dishes  as  possible  the  day 
before,  to  avoid  confusion  on  the  fixed  day. 

Be  just  and  honest ;  do  as  you  would  be  done  by  ;  re- 
member that  you  occupy  the  chief  position  among  the  ser- 
vants of  the  household,  a  position  upon  which  the  health 
and  happiness  of  the  family  depend,  and  you  will  always 
be  worthy  of  the  greatest  respect.  You  may  be  sure  of 
success  and  a  good  home. 


PASTRY  AND  PIES 


To  make  a  light,  crisp,  and  flaky  crust,  use  a  good,  fine 
flour  and  none  but  the  best  butter.  Have  everything,  in- 
cluding yourself,  cool.  A  marble  slab  makes  the  best 
pastry-board.  Use  a  glass  rolling-pin,  if  convenient;  if 
not,  one  made  from  hard  wood  with  movable  handles. 
Always  use  ice  or  very  cold  water  in  mixing,  and  keep  the 
paste  in  a  cold  place.  Plain  paste  is  improved  by  keeping 
it  on  the  ice  before  using  it.  Puff  paste  may  be  kept  four 
or  five  days.  If  you  should  stand  your  paste  outside  in 
cold  weather,  to  cool,  be  careful  that  it  does  not  freeze,  as 
this  spoils  its  lightness.  No  matter  how  light  your  paste 
may  be,  the  substance  of  each  stratum  is  dense  and  hard 
of  digestion,  and  should  never  be  eaten  by  persons  of  weak 
digestive  powers. 

PUFF  PASTE 
"  If  'twere  done  when  '/is  done, 

Then  "'twere  well  'twere  done  quickly'"1 — MACBETH. 

i  pound  of  sifted  flour         i  teaspoonful  of  sugar 
i  pound  of  good  butter       White  of  one  egg 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt  A  cup  or  more  of  ice-water 

Scald  a  large  bowl,  then  fill  it  with  cold  water,  and  let  stand 
until  the  bowl  is  cold.  Wash  the  hands  in  hot  soapsuds, 
then  rinse  them  in  cold  water,  but  do  not  dry  them.  This 

prevents  the  butter  from  sticking  to  the  hands  and  bowl. 

(371) 


372  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Turn  the  water  out  of  the  bowl,  and  nearly  fill  it  with  ice- 
water,  put  the  butter  into  it,  and  wash  by  working  it  with 
the  hands  under  the  water  until  it  becomes  soft  and  elastic ; 
then  pat  it  into  a  cake,  and  put  it  on  the  ice  until  wanted. 
Put  the  flour  on  a  marble  slab  or  a  very  large  meat  plate, 
make  a  well  in  the  centre  of  it,  and  put  into  this  well  a  lump 
of  the  washed  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  the  white  of  the 
egg,  sugar,  and  salt.  Now  work  this  with  the  thumb  and  two 
fingers  to  a  paste,  add  gradually  the  ice-water,  and  gradually 
work  in  the  flour.  When  all  is  worked  in,  knead  as  you 
would  bread  for  five  minutes,  then  cut  the  paste  into  halves, 
roll  out  each  half  into  a  sheet,  quickly  break  the  butter  into 
bits,  and  lay  it  over  one  sheet ;  dredge  it  thickly  with  flour, 
cover  with  the  other  sheet,  pound  lightly  with  the  rolling- 
pin  ;  roll  from  you,  into  a  long,  thin  sheet ;  now  fold  in 
first  the  sides,  then  the  ends  ;  turn  the  paste  around  so  that 
the  fold  will  run  to  and  from  you.  Now  roll  from  you 
again,  fold  as  before,  place  it  on  a  tin  pie  dish,  and  stand 
it  away  on  the  ice  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  roll  and  fold 
twice  again,  and  again  stan$  on  the  ice.  Do  this  until  you 
have  rolled  it  eight  times.  Let  it  stand  on  the  ice  over 
night,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

If  then  rolled  in  a  napkin,  and  put  in  a  cold,  dry 
place,  it  will  keep  nicely  for  one  week. 

It  is  almost  impossible  for  any  one  to  make  good  puff 
paste  from  a  recipe  without  first  seeing  it  made. 

TO   BAKE   PUFF    PASTE. 

The  most  important  part  of  all  is  the  oven,  for  if  you  have 
used  the  best  materials,  have  mixed  them  as  directed,  and 
then  put  the  paste  in  an  oven  not  properly  heated,  you 
have  wasted  both  materials  and  labor.  The  paste  should 
be  icy  cold  when  it  is  put  into  the  oven,  and  the  oven 
should  be  very  hot  (460°  Fahr.). 


PASTRY  AND    PIES  373 

For  patties,  the  oven  should  have  a  strong  under-heat, 
allowing  them  to  rise  their  full  height  before  browning. 
Then  put  them  on  the  grate  to  brown.  If  the  oven  should 
be  too  hot,  and  the  paste  begins  to  brown  as  soon  as  it  is 
put  in  the  oven,  quickly  open  the  draughts  of  the  stove  and 
stand  a  small  basin  of  ice-water  in  the  oven.  This  will 
immediately  reduce  the  temperature. 

PLAIN   PASTE   WITH    BUTTER 

3  cups  of  sifted  flour         i  cup  or  a  half-pound  of  butter 
i  teaspoon ful  of  salt          i  teaspoonful  of  sugar 

Nearly  a  cup  of  ice-water 

Have  everything  as  cold  as  possible.  In  warm  weather, 
stand  the  butter  and  flour  in  the  refrigerator  several  hours 
before  using  them.  Sift  the  flour,  measure,  and  put  into  a 
large  mixing-bowl ;  add  the  salt  and  sugar  ;  then  place  the 
butter  in  the  centre  of  the  flour,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut 
it  quickly  into  small  pieces,  at  the  same  time  mixing  it  with 
the  flour ;  now  add  the  ice-water  gradually,  lifting  with 
the  knife  that  portion  which  you  have  moistened  first,  and 
pushing  it  to  one  side  of  the  bowl,  wet  another  portion, 
and  so  continue  until  all  is  moistened.  Then  cut  and  mix 
it  together  until  you  can  lift  it  from  the  bowl  with  the 
knife.  (A  word  of  caution  :  add  the  water  very  carefully, 
wetting  only  the  dry  flour,  never  stirring  twice  in  the  same 
place.)  Dredge  the  baking-board  lightly  with  flour,  turn 
the  paste  out  on  this,  dredge  with  flour,  and  roll  lightly 
and  quickly  from  you  into  a  long,  thin  sheet.  Fold  first 
the  sides  and  then  the  ends,  turn  the  paste  around  and  roll 
from  you  again,  as  before ;  fold  and  roll  again  ;  then  fold 
and  stand  on  the  ice  until  wanted. 

To  have  this  paste  a  perfect  success,  the  materials 
should  be  very  cold,  mixed  and  rolled  quickly,  using  as 
little  flour  as  possible  in  finishing. 


374  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

PLAIN   PASTE   WITH    LARD 

Many  housekeepers  always  use  lard  instead  of  butter  for 
pastry,  simply  because  it  is  cheaper  ;  but,  as  it  makes  a 
greasy  and  brittle  crust,  there  is  no  doubt  that  it  is  more 
indigestible  than  the  light,  flaky,  and  tender  crust  made 
from  good,  sweet  butter.  For  the  benefit  of  those  who  use 
lard  the  following  recipe  is  given  : 

i  quart  of  sifted  flour 

i  cup  of  lard 

i  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 

Nearly  a  cup  of  ice-water 
Make  and  roll  precisely  the  same  as  Plain  Paste  with  Butter. 


PLAIN  PASTE  HALF  AND  HALF 

i  quart  of  sifted  flour 
YZ  cup  of  lard  (  ^  fib) 
YZ  cup  of  butter  (^  lb) 

i  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 

Nearly  a  cup  of  ice-water 

Wash  the  butter  as  directed  in  recipe  for  Puff  Paste  ;  put 
it  on  the  ice  until  wanted.  Put  the  flour  into  a  mixing- 
bowl,  add  the  salt,  mix,  and  with  the  hands  quickly  rub 
into  it  the  lard  ;  add  the  water  gradually,  moistening  as 
directed  in  Plain  Paste  with  Butter.  Dredge  the  baking- 
board  lightly  with  flour,  turn  the  paste  out  on  this,  and  roll 
from  you  into  a  long,  thin  sheet.  Now  take  the  butter 
from  the  ice,  break  it  quickly  into  small  bits  and  place 
them  over  the  paste  ;  dredge  quickly  with  flour,  fold  in  the 
sides,  then  the  ends;  turn  so  that  the  last  fold  will  run 
to  and  from  you,  and  roll  from  you  again.  Never  roll  but 
the  one  way.  Now  fold  the  same  as  before,  and  roll  out 
again  ;  do  this  four  times.  Stand  it  on  the  ice,  or  in  a 
cold  place,  for  one  hour,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Jt  may  be  kept  two  or  three  days  in  a  cold  place, 


PASTRY  AND    PIES  375 

SUET  PASTE 

i  pound  of  flour  i  cup  of  ice-water 

6  ounces  of  beef's  suet      i  teaspoonful  of  salt 
Remove  the  fibre  from  the  suet,  and  chop  it  very  fine ;  add 
gradually  the  flour ;  then  add  the  salt ;  mix  with  a  knife,  and 
add  gradually  the  water — more  or  less,  as  the  flour  requires — 
roll  out,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

This  paste  is  nice  for  apple  dumplings  and  meat  pies. 

POTATO    PASTE 

2  cups  of  mashed  potatoes  (hot) 
y2  cup  of  cream 
i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
Salt  to  taste 

Beat  the  potatoes  until  light ;  add  the  butter,  cream  and  salt, 
and  beat  again ;  then  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  soft 
dough ;  handle  as  lightly  as  possible,  roll  out,  and  it  is 
ready  to  use. 

This  is  nice  for  meat  or  potato  pies,  or  apple  dump- 
lings. 

> 

APPLE  PIE 

3  large  greenings  or  other          ^  cup  of  sugar 

tart  apples  2  tablespoonfuls  of  water 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Pare  and  slice  the  apples.  Line  a  tin  pie  dish  with  good, 
plain  paste ;  fill  it  with  the  sliced  apples,  strew  over  the 
sugar  ;  add  water,  butter  cut  into  bits,  and — if  you  like  it 
— a  quarter-teaspoonful  of  cinnamon.  Now  roll  out  a 
piece  of  paste  a  little  larger  than  the  top  of  the  pie,  make 
a  gash  in  the  centre  of  it ;  wet  the  rim  of  the  lower  crust 
with  cold  water ;  put  the  upper  crust  on,  press  the  edges 
together,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  (400°  Fahr.)  for  a  half- 
hour. 


376  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

APPLE  TART 

Pare,  quarter  and  core  any  kind  of  tart  apples.  Line  pie 
dishes  with  plain  paste  ;  then  put  in  a  layer  of  the  quarters, 
sprinkle  with  two  tablespoon fuls  of  sugar  and  a  teaspoon ful 
of  cinnamon ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water  and  one 
ounce  of  butter  cut  into  bits  and  placed  here  and  there 
over  the  apples.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  the  apples  are 
tender. 

Peach  tarts  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner,  omit- 
ting the  cinnamon  and  dividing  the  peaches  in  halves. 

CHEESE   CAKE 

i^  cups  of  cottage  cheese       Juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or   one    teaspoon  ful  of 
Y^  cup  of  sugar                                vanilla 

3  eggs  i  teaspoonful  melted  butter 
Press  the  cheese  through  a  colander,  beat  the  eggs  until 
light,  add  them  with  all  the  other  ingredients  to  the  cheese ; 
beat  until  smooth.     Line  a  deep  pie  dish  with  plain  paste, 
fill  with  this  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  thirty 
minutes. 

The  quantities  given  will  make  only  one  pie. 

CHERRY   PIE 

The  common  red  or  morella  cherries  make  the  best  pies. 
Stone  the  cherries.  Line  deep  pie  dishes  with  good  plain 
paste,  fill  them  nearly  full  of  stoned  cherries,  sprinkle  over 
four  large  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  dredge  this  lightly 
with  flour ;  cover  with  the  upper  crust,  rolled  out  as  thin 
as  possible,  trim  the  edges  neatly  with  a  sharp  knife.  Make 
a  vent  in  the  centre;  press  the  edges  tightly  together  so 
that  the  juices  of  the  fruit  may  not  run  out  while  baking. 
Serve  the  same  day  they  are  baked,  or  the  under  crust  will 
be  heavy. 


PASTRY  AND  PIES  377 

COCOANUT   CUSTARD 

1  pint  of  milk  ^  cup  of  sugar 

2  eggs  ^  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 

i  cup  of  grated  cocoanut 

Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  light,  then  add  the 
milk,  nutmeg,  and  cocoanut.  Line  two  pie 'dishes  with 
plain  paste,  fill  them  with  this  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  for  thirty  minutes. 

CRANBERRY  PIE         No.  i 

Line  a  pie  dish  with  plain  paste,  then  fill  it  with  uncooked 
cranberries;  add  a  half-cup  of  molasses,  and  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  cover  with  an  upper  crust,  and  bake  in 
a  quick  oven  for  thirty  minutes.  GOOD. 

CRANBERRY   PIE         No.  2 

Line  a  pie  dish  with  plain  paste,  then  fill  with  stewed  cran- 
berries; cover  with  an  upper  crust,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  for  thirty  minutes. 

CRANBERRY    TARTS 

Fill  patty  or  plain  shells  with  stewed  cranberries. 

CREAM    PIE 

i  pint  of  milk  A  piece  of  butter  the  size 

i  heaping  tablespoonful  of  a  walnut 

of  corn -starch  Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 

Whites  of  four  eggs  or    a    teaspoon ful    of 

y2  cup  of  sugar  vanilla 

Line  three  pie  dishes  with  plain  paste ;  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  When  done,  take  from 
the  oven  and  stand  aside  until  wanted.  Put  the  milk  on  to 
boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Moisten  the  corn-starch  with  a 


378  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

little  cold  milk,  stir  it  into  the  boiling  milk  and  stir  con- 
tinually until  it  thickens,  then  add  the  sugar.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  carefully  into 
the  boiling  mixture,  take  from  the  fire  and  add  the  flavor- 
ing. Fill  the  shells  of  baked  paste  with  this  mixture,  and 
put  in  the  oven  until  a  nice  brown. 
Serve  very  cold. 

GENERAL   SATISFACTION 

Line  a  pie  dish  with  puff  paste.  Wet  the  edge  of  the  paste 
around  the  pie  dish  with  a  little  cold  water.  Cut  the  trim- 
mings left,  into  strips  about  a  half-inch  wide  and  put  these 
around  the  edge  of  the  dish  so  as  to  form  two  or  three 
layers  of  paste.  Put  a  layer  of  preserves  in  the  bottom  of 
the  dish,  then  a  layer  of  stale  cake  broken  into  small  pieces. 
Moisten  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  gradually  with  one  gill 
of  milk;  beat  until  smooth;  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  boils 
and  thickens;  add  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla,  and  stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  well- 
beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  and  sugar  to  taste.  Pour  this  over 
the  layer  of  cake,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty-five 
minutes,  or  until  the  paste  is  thoroughly  done.  Then  beat 
the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  place  them  by  spoonfuls  over 
the  top  of  the  pie,  and  place  again  in  the  oven  for  a  few 
minutes  to  brown. 

GREEN   GOOSEBERRY  PIE 

Top  and  tail  the  gooseberries.  For  one  quart  of  goose- 
berries, line  two  deep  pie  dishes  with  good  plain  paste;  fill 
with  the  gooseberries,  add  nearly  one  cup  of  sugar  to  each 
pie,  cover  with  an  upper  crust,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
forty  minutes. 


PASTRY  AND    PIES  379 

RIPE   GOOSEBERRY    PIE 

Make  the  same  as  Green  Gooseberry  Pie,  using  one-third 
less  sugar. 

HUCKLEBERRY   PIE 

Make  the  same  as  Cherry  Pie,  using  two  large  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sugar  instead  of  four. 

Blackberry,  raspberry,  plum,  and   strawberry  pies  are 
made  in  the  same  manner. 

LEMON  CUSTARD 

i  cup  of  sugar         i  tablespoonful  of  flour 

3  eggs  2  tablespoon fuls   of  powdered 

i  cup  of  milk  sugar 

Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 

Beat  the  cup  of  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  together,  add  the 
juice  and  rind  of  the  lemon.  Put  the  flour  into  a  cup,  and 
add  the  milk  very  gradually,  stirring  all  the  while,  then 
pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  the  eggs  and  sugar.  Line  a 
deep  pie  plate  with  puff  paste,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  thirty  minutes.  Add  gradually  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  to  the  whites  of  the  eggs, 
beating  all  the  while;  when  it  is  all  in,  beat  until  stiff  and 
glossy,  then  place  over  the  top  of  the  pie  by  spoonfuls,  and 
put  back  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

GRANDMOTHER'S   LEMON    CUSTARD 

i  pound  of  powdered  sugar     Yolks  of  six  eggs 
^  pound  of  butter  Whites  of  four  eggs 

Juice  and  rind  of  three  lemons 

Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  whites 
unbeaten,  one  at  a  time,  and  beat  the  whole  until  very 
light.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  other  mix- 
ture gradually  to  it;  now  stand  the  bowl  in  a  basin  of  boil- 
ing water  over  the  fire  and  stir  continually  until  the  mixture 
thickens ;  take  from  the  fire,  and  stand  away  to  cool.  Line 


380  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

two  deep  pie  dishes  with  good  plain  paste,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  When  done,  take  out  and 
fill  with  the  lemon  mixture.  Add  gradually  six  tablespoon  - 
fuls  of  powdered  sugar  to  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  beating 
all  the  while;  after  you  have  added  all  the  sugar,  beat  until 
very  stiff  and  glossy;  put  this  meringue  over  the  top  of  the 
pie  and  stand  it  in  the  oven  until  a  golden  brown. 

LEMON    PIE 

1  cup  of  sugar  i  cup  of  water 

2  tablespoon  fuls  of  flour         Juice  and  rind  of  one  large 
i  egg  lemon 

i  soda  cracker 

Beat  the  sugar  and  egg  together,  then  add  the  water,  then 
the  cracker  rolled,  then  the  juice  and  rind  of  the  lemon. 
Moisten  the  flour  with  just  a  little  cold  water,  and  stir  it 
into  the  other  mixture.  Line  two  pie  dishes  with  plain 
paste,  pour  in  the  mixture,  cover  with  an  upper  crust, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 

MARLBOROUGH    PIE 

6  medium-sized  apples       i  tablespoon ful  of  butter  (i  oz.) 

3  eggs  Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 
i  cup  of  sugar  i  cup  of  cream 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry,  if  you  use  wine 
Steam  the  apples  until  tender,  then  press  them  through  a 
sieve,  and  add  to  them,  while  hot,  the  butter;  let  stand 
until  cooL  When  cold,  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well 
beaten,  the  juice  and  rind  of  the  lemon,  the  sugar,  cream 
and  sherry.  Line  two  deep  pie  dishes  with  plain  paste,  fill 
them  with  this  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  thirty 
minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add- 
ing to  them  gradually  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
then  heap  over  the  top  of  the  pies,  and  return  them  to  the 
oven  until  a  light  brown, 


PASTRY  AND    PIES  381 

MINCE    MEAT 

2  pounds  of  beef  (sticking       2  pounds  of  beefs  suet 

piece  best)  i^  pound  of  candied  lemon 
2  pounds  of  layer  raisins  peel 

2  pounds  of  currants,  picked,    4  pounds  of  apples 

washed,  and  dried  2  pounds  of  Sultana  raisins 

1  pound  of  citron  2  pounds  of  sugar 

2  nutmegs,  grated  ^  ounce  of  cinnamon 
%  ounce  of  cloves  %  ounce  of  mace 

i  quart  of  sherry  or  good  i  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 

home-made  currant  wine    i  quart  of  good  brandy 
Juice  and  rind  of  two  oranges 
Juice  and  rind  of  two  lemons 

Cover  the  meat  with  boiling  water  and  simmer  gently  until 
tender,  then  stand  away  until  cold.  Shred  the  suet  and 
chop  it  fine.  Pare,  core  and  chop  the  apples.  Stone  the 
raisins.  Shred  the  citron.  When  the  meat  is  perfectly 
cold,  chop  it  fine,  and  mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  with  it ; 
then  add  the  juice  and  rinds  of  the  lemons  and  oranges, 
mix  well,  and  pack  in  a  stone  jar;  pour  over  the  brandy 
and  wine,  cover  closely  and  stand  in  a  cool  place.  Mince 
meat  made  by  this  recipe  will  keep  all  winter.  When  ready 
to  use,  dip  out  the  quantity  desired,  and  thin  with  cider 
or  wine. 

One  word  here  about  cleaning  the  currants.  First  put 
them  into  a  large  bowl,  and  to  every  pound  add  a  half-cup 
of  flour ;  mix  the  flour  thoroughly  through  the  currants, 
and  then  rub  them  between  the  hands  until  all  the  stems 
are  rubbed  off;  put  them  in  a  colander,  and  pour  over  end- 
less quantities  of  cold  water  until  all  the  twigs,  gravel 
stones  and  sand  are  washed  off;  now  scald  them,  then 
wash  again  in  cold  water,  drain,  spread  them  on  pie  dishes, 
and  stand  in  a  cool  oven,  with  the  door  open,  to  dry. 

Fresh  beefs  tongue  or  heart  may  be  boiled,  chopped, 
and  used  instead  of  beef,  if  preferred. 


382  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

MIRLITONS 

i  pint  of  milk  6  macaroons 

i  tablespoonful  of  grated       i  tablespoon ful  of  sugar 
chocolate  Yolks  of  three  eggs 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Pound  the  macaroons  and  press  them  through  a  colander, 
add  them  and  the  chocolate  to  the  milk ;  let  stand  ten 
minutes.  Now  add  the  yolks,  well  beaten,  sugar  and  van- 
illa. Line  patty-pans  with  puff  paste,  fill  with  this  mixture, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty  minutes, 

MOCK  MINCE  PIE 

i  cup  of  raisins,  chopped      ^  of  a  cup  of  molasses 

fine  Y?,  cup  of  cider 

i  egg  2  Boston  crackers 

i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar    y2  cup  of  sugar 
y%  cup  of  washed  currants      j£  cup  of  cut  citron 
y^  teaspoonful  of  salt  Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 

Roll  the  crackers  and  mix  them  with  the  fruit ;  add  salt, 
beaten  eggs,  molasses,  cider,  vinegar,  sugar,  lemon  and 
spice  to  taste.  Mix  all  well  together,  and  finish  the  same 
as  Apple  Pie. 

MOLASSES  PIE 

9  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses 
6  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar 
1^/2,  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
YZ  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 
^  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 
A  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut 
Moisten  the  flour  with  the  vinegar,  add  it  to  the  molasses ; 
mix  until  smooth,   then   add   the   spices,  and   the  butter, 
melted.     Line  a  deep  pie  dish  with  plain  paste,  fill  with 
this  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 


PASTRY  AND    PIES  383 

PAGANINI  TARTLETS 

Line  patty-pans  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  them  fifteen 
minutes  in  a  quick  oven.  When  done,  take  them  out,  put 
a  half-teaspoon ful  of  orange  marmalade  on  each  patty, 
cover  with  a  meringue,  and  put  back  in  the  oven  a  few 
minutes  to  brown. 

PEACH  MERINGUE 

Pare  and  stew  one  dozen  peaches,  and  press  through  a  col- 
ander to  remove  the  stones.  Line  two  deep  pie  dishes 
with  plain  paste ;  sweeten  the  peaches  to  taste ;  fill  the 
dishes  even  full,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty-five  min- 
utes. Then  beat  the  whites  of  six  eggs  and  six  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  powdered  ~sugar  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  a  teaspoon  ful  of 
vanilla.  Cover  the  pies  with  this  meringue  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  and  put  back  in  the  oven  until 
a  nice  brown. 

Apple  meringue  is  made  in  the  same  way. 

PEACH    PIE 

Line  pie  dishes  with  good  plain  paste.  Pare,  cut  the  peaches 
in  halves,  and  take  out  the  stones,  then  lay  them  in  the 
dishes,  sprinkle  lightly  with  sugar,  add  a  quarter-cup  of 
water,  cover  with  an  upper  crust,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
for  thirty  minutes;  or  the  peaches  may  be  thoroughly 
rubbed  without  paring,  slightly  mashed  and  baked  without 
stoning. 

SWEET  POTATO    CUSTARD 

2  good-sized  sweet  potatoes    i  cup  of  milk 

3  eggs  ^  cup  of  sugar 

A  piece  of  butter  the  size        2  tablespoon  fuls  of  brandy, 
of  a  walnut  if  you  use  liquor 

i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

Wash  the  potatoes  and  parboil  them,  then  stand  away  until 
quite  cold.  When  cold,  peel  and  grate  them.  Beat  the 


384  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

butter,  sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  until  very  light, 
add  the  potatoes  by  degrees,  stirring  all  the  while,  then  add 
all  the  other  ingredients.  Line  a  deep  pie  dish  with  plain 
paste,  fill  it  with  this  mixture,  and  bake  for  thirty  minutes. 
Then  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  heap  this  over  the  top 
of  the  pie,  and  put  back  in  the  oven  until  a  light  brown. 

WHITE    POTATO    CUSTARD 

i  pound  of  sugar  Juice  and  rind  of  two  lemons 

i  pint  of  milk  6  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter  (one  ounce) 

Beat  the  eggs  all  together  until  light,  then  add  the  sugar 
and  butter ;  beat  again.  Pare  the  potatoes  and  grate  them 
into  the  milk,  then  add  these  to  the  eggs  and  sugar,  add 
the  juice  and  rind  of  the  lemons,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

PUMPKIN  PIE 

Pare  and  cut  the  pumpkin  in  pieces  about  one  inch 
square ;  put  them  into  a  stewing-pan  with  just  enough 
water  to  keep  them  from  burning;  stew  slowly  until  tender 
(about  a  half-hour),  then  press  through  a  colander.  To 
every  half-pint  of  pumpkin,  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  and  a  quarter-teaspoonful  of  salt;  mix,  and 
let  stand  until  cold.  When  cold,  put  one  pint  of  this 
pumpkin  into  a  large  bowl,  add  to  it  one  pint  of  milk,  a 
half-teaspoonful  of  ground  mace,  the  same  of  ground  cin- 
namon, and  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger;  mix  all 
well  together,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Beat  four  eggs  until 
light,  then  add  them  to  the  mixture.  Line  four  deep  pie 
plates  with  good  plain  paste,  fill  with  this  mixture,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  (400°  Fahr.)  for  about  thirty  minutes. 

The  Kershaw  pumpkin  is  best  for  pies. 

If  you  use  liquor,  a  gill  of  brandy  may  be  added  to 
the  recipe  given. 


PASTRY  AND    PIES  385 

RHUBARB    PIE 

Line  deep  pie  dishes  with  good  plain  paste.  Wash  the 
tender  stalks  of  rhubarb,  but  do  not  peel ;  cut  them  into 
thin  slices,  fill  the  dishes  even  full,  and  to  each  pie  add  five 
heaping  tablespoon fuls  of  sugar.  Cover  the  pie  with  an 
upper  crust,  press  the  edges  tightly  together,  and  pick  the 
upper  crust  here  and  there  with  a  fork  to  allow  the  escape 
of  steam.  Bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven  for  forty 
minutes. 

RICHMOND   MAIDS  OF    HONOR 

i  cup  of  sour  milk  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

i  cup  of  sweet  milk  3  eggs 

YZ  cup  of  sugar  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

2  tablespoon  fuls  of  powdered  sugar 

Put  the  sour  and  sweet  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler, 
and  boil  until  it  curds;  then  strain  and  press  it  through  a 
sieve,  add  to  it  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  the  sugar  and  vanilla. 
Beat  until  very  smooth.  Line  little  patty  pans  with  puff 
paste  rolled  very  thin.  Fill  a  little  more  than  half  full  of 
the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty  minutes. 
Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  to  them  the 
powdered  sugar,  heap  some  on  the  top  of  each  patty,  and 
put  in  the  oven  for  a  minute  to  brown.  Do  not  remove 
from  the  pans  until  cold. 

It  is  said  that  the  original  recipe  for  these  was  furnished 
by  a  maid  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  at  her  palace  at  Richmond, 
England. 

WASHINGTON    PIES 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter       y2  cup  of  milk 
i  cup  of  sugar  2  cups  of  flour 

i  egg  i  tablespoonful  of  ginger 

i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 
Beat  the  egg,  sugar,  and  butter  together  until  light,  then 


386  PHILADELPHIA    COOK    BOOK 

add  the  milk,  ginger,  cinnamon,  flour,  and  a  half-teaspoon  - 
fill  of  baking-powder;  beat  thoroughly  until  smooth.  Line 
two  Washington  pie  plates  with  plain  paste,  put  the  mixture 
into  them,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven  for  thirty 
minutes.  When  done,  ice  with  a  clear  icing,  and  stand 
away  to  cool. 

VOL-AU-VENT 

A  vol-au-vent  is  very  difficult  to  make,  even  by  the  most 
experienced  cook,  and  cannot  be  made  perfectly  without 
first  taking  a  lesson.  For  those  who  wish  to  try  it,  the  fol- 
lowing recipe  is  given: — 

Make  puff  paste  as  directed,  and  stand  it  on  the  ice 
over  night.  The  next  morning,  roll  it  out  an  inch  in 
thickness ;  turn  a  basin  the  shape  of  the  dish  in  which  you 
wish  to  serve  the  vol-au-vent  upside  down  on  the  paste, 
and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  around  the  basin ;  remove  the 
basin,  and  place  another  basin  of  a  smaller  size  and  same 
shape  on  the  paste ;  Now  cut  around  this  basin  only  half- 
way through  the  paste,  leaving  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
around  the  edge ;  now  brush  the  vol-au-vent  all  over  the 
top  with  a  beaten  egg,  being  very  careful  not  to  touch  the 
sides.  Put  it  on  a  tin  or  iron  sheet,  stand  again  on  the  ice 
until  very  cold ;  then  put  it  into  a  very  hot  oven  to  bake 
for  thirty-five  minutes.  Be  careful  not  to  scorch,  as  it 
burns  quickly.  WThen  done,  carefully  remove  the  piece 
marked  out  with  a  sharp  knife,  lay  it  aside  for  the  cover. 
Scoop  out  all  the  unbaked  portion  from  the  inside,  put  the 
vol-au-vent  back  in  the  oven  to  dry.  When  ready  to  serve, 
if  filled  with  the  White  Fricassee  of  Chicken,  it  is  then 
Vol-au-Vent  of  Chicken.  For  Vol-au-Vent  of  Oysters, 
fill  with  Creamed  Oysters ;  Lobster,  with  Creamed  Lob- 
ster, etc. 


PASTRY  AND    PIES  387 

PATE  de  FOIES  GRAS 

These  are  usually  made  in  French  pie  moulds,  holding 
about  two  quarts,  requiring  a  large  quantity  of  materials, 
and  costing  from  five  to  six  dollars;  but  they  can  be  so  sim- 
plified that  any  housekeeper  can  make  them  for  one-half  the 
above  cost,  and  will  be  so  pleased  with  results  that  she  will 
enter  them  at  once  on  her  weekly  bills  of  fare. 

The  rule  for  plain  paste 
y±  pound  of  calf's  liver 

i  slice  of  bacon  or  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ham 
YZ  pound  of  veal 

i  Terrine  de  Foies  Gras  aux  Truffes  du  Perigord, 

Strasbourg 
i^  pint  of  mushrooms 

Salt  and  pepper 

Remove  the  fat  from  the  top  of  the  foies  gras,  take  them 
from  the  pot  and  mash,  adding  about  a  tablespoonful  of  the 
fat  you  have  taken  off.  Chop  the  veal  very  fine.  Scald  the 
liver,  dry  it  with  a  towel,  and  chop  it  also  very  fine.  Cut 
the  bacon  or  ham  into  dice.  Line  an  ordinary  tin  one- 
quart  basin  about  two  inches  deep  with  a  sheet  of  the  plain 
paste.  In  the  bottom  put  a  layer  of  veal,  next  a  layer  of 
fois  gras,  next  a  layer  of  mushrooms,  chopped,  then  a  layer 
of  liver,  then  a  sprinkling  of  ham,  pepper  and  salt,  and  so 
on  until  the  materials  are  used.  Roll  out  another  piece  of 
paste  for  the  top  cover,  make  an  opening  in  the  centre, 
place  it  over  the  top,  and  press  the  edges  of  the  upper  and 
the  under  crust  firmly  together.  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  a 
few  leaves  from  the  trimmings  of  the  paste,  arrange  them 
tastefully  in  the  centre  of  the  top  crust.  Place  it  in  a 
quick  oven,  and  bake  one  hour;  as  soon  as  the  top  crust  is 
a  nice  brown,  cover  it  with  a  sheet  of  writing-paper  to  pre- 
vent its  burning.  When  done,  carefully  lift  it  from  the 
basin,  place  it  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 


388  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

OYSTER  PATTIES 

I  batch  of  puff  paste  25  nice  fat  oysters 

i  pint  of  milk  or  cream  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Roll  out  the  puff  paste  about  an  inch  thick.  Then,  with  a 
round  tin  cutter,  cut  out  a  patty,  and  lay  it  on  a  greased 
tin  sheet.  Brush  it  lightly  over  the  top  with  the  beaten 
yolk  of  an  egg,  being  careful  not  to  allow  any  of  the  yolk 
to  run  down  the  sides,  as  it  cements  the  edges  together 
and  prevents  it  from  being  light;  then  take  a  cutter,  two 
sizes  smaller,  and  press  it  in  the  centre  and  nearly  through 
the  patty,  and  so  on  until  you  have  the  whole  cut.  Now 
put  them  on  the  ice  for  a  half-hour,  or  until  the  oven  is 
very  hot  (400°  Fahr.).  Then  bake  about  twenty  minutes, 
or  until  a  nice  brown.  The  inside  cut  acts  as  a  non-con- 
ductor, and  prevents  the  heat  from  reaching  the  centre, 
consequently  all  the  paste  inside  this  ring  should  be 
unbaked.  Now  remove  the  lid  crust  carefully,  and  save  it 
for  the  lid  of  the  patty.  Take  out  this  unbaked  portion 
with  a  spoon.  Put  the  patties  back  in  the  oven  for  ten 
minutes;  leave  the  door  open,  as  they  only  want  a  little 
drying.  Now  put  the  oysters  on  to  boil,,  in  their  own 
liquor;  as  soon  as  they  boil,  drain  them.  Put  the  milk  or 
cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Rub  the  butter  and 
corn-starch  together  until  smooth,  and  add  to  the  boiling 
milk  or  cream ;  stir  until  it  boils,  add  salt  and  pepper,  and 
last,  the  oysters;  let  boil  up  again,  and  take  from  the  fire. 

TO  FILL  THE   PATTIES 

Put  two  oysters  and  a  little  sauce  in  each  one,  put  on  the 
lid,  and  serve. 

For  what  to  do  with  the  unbaked  paste,  see   remarks 
"What  to  Save,  and  How  to  Use  It." 


PUDDINGS  AND  DESSERTS 


HOT     PUDDINGS 

AMBER  PUDDING 

Four  eggs,  their  weight  in  butter,  sugar  and  rice  flour, 
juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream, 
then  add  gradually  the  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs,  without  sep- 
arating, until  very  light ;  then  add  them  gradually  to  the 
other  mixture,  beating  all  the  while ;  then  add  the  flour 
and  beat  until  smooth.  Butter  a  plain  pudding  mould, 
with  a  cover ;  pour  the  pudding  into  it,  stand  it  in  a  pot 
of  boiling  water,  and  boil  continuously  for  two  hours. 
Serve  hot,  with  Brandy  Sauce. 

BATTER   PUDDING 

i  quart  of  milk  i  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

i  cup  of  flour  6  eggs 

Add  the  salt  to  the  flour  and  sift  it.  Beat  the  eggs,,  yolks 
and  whites  together,  until  creamy  :  add  to  the  milk.  Add 
this  gradually  to  the  flour,  beating  all  the  while.  Now 
strain  through  a  sieve,  to  remove  any  lumps  of  flour  that 
may  be  in  it.  Pour  into  a  greased  pudding  mould,  put  on 
the  cover,  and  stand  the  mould  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water. 
Boil  continuously  for  two  hours.  Do  not  move  the  pot,  or 

jar  the  stove,  or  the  pudding  will  fall.     If  necessary  to  add 

(389) 


390  PHILADELPHIA    COOK    BOOK 

more  water  to  the  pot  while  boiling  the  pudding,  be  sure 
to  add  boiling  water,  so  as  not  to  check  the  boiling  for  a 
moment,  or  this  will  also  make  it  heavy.  When  done,  lift 
the  mould  gently  from  the  boiling  water,  remove  the  cover, 
put  a  round  dish  on  top  of  the  mould  ;  now  turn  the  mould 
upside  down,  and  gently  remove  it,  leaving  the  pudding 
on  the  dish.  Serve  with  Fairy  Butter. 

BATTER  PUDDING  WITH  CHERRIES 

i  pint  of  milk  i  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter 

3^2  cups  of  flour  2  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of 

3  eggs  baking-powder 

y%  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  pint  of  stoned  cherries 
Beat  the  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  together,  until  light ;  then 
add  the  milk,  then  the  flour,  and  beat  until  smooth  ;  then 
add  the  butter  melted,  salt  and  baking-powder.  Drain 
the  cherries,  dredge  them  with  flour,  stir  them  into  the  pud- 
ding, and  turn  into  a  greased  pudding  mould.  Cover, 
stand  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  continuously  for 
three  hours.  If  the  water  evaporates  in  the  pot,  replenish 
with  boiling  water.  Serve  with  Fairy  Butter. 

BLACKBERRY    PUDDING 

Make  same  as  Batter  Pudding  with  Cherries,  using  a  pint 
of  blackberries  instead  of  a  pint  of  cherries. 

Strawberry,  huckleberry,  and  raspberry  puddings  may 
be  made  in  the  same  way. 

BIRD'S-NEST    PUDDING      (HOT) 

Pare  and  core  six  tart  apples ;  then  put  them  in  the  bottom 
of  a  buttered  baking-dish.  Mix  one  pint  of  thick,  sour 
cream  with  two  and  a  half  cups  of  flour,  until  smooth  ;  then 
add  a  half-teaspoonful  of  soda,  dissolved  in  a  tablespoonful 
of  boiling  water ;  mix  again,  pour  over  the  apples,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  one  hour.  Serve  hot,  with  Hard 
Sauce. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  391 

BABA  PUDDING 

Y<2,  pound  of  butter  4  eggs 

12  ounces  of  flour  ^  cup  of  raisins 

yz  yeast  cake  or  a  half-     ^  pound  of  mixed  candied 
cup  of  yeast  French  fruit 

y<z  cup  of  chopped  citron 

Add  to  the  yeast,  or  the  half-cake  dissolved  in  a  quarter- 
clip  of  lukewarm  water,  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough ; 
make  this  into  a  biscuit,  cut  a  cross  on  the  top,  and  put  it 
into  a  bowl  of  lukewarm  water;  as  soon  as  it  floats,  take  it 
out,  and  it  is  ready  to  use — this  will  take  about  ten  min- 
utes. Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  to  it  the  eggs  well 
beaten,  and  then  the  flour ;  mix  well,  then  add  the  biscuit, 
and  knead  with  the  hands  until  very  light.  Now  raise  the 
dough  and  throw  it  on  the  board  with  force  ;  repeat  this 
until  it  leaves  your  hand  without  sticking  to  it.  Now  add 
the  raisins  and  citron,  knead  until  thoroughly  mixed,  put 
into  a  greased  Turk's  head,  and  stand  in  warm  place  (72° 
Fahr.),  for  two  hours  and  a  half,  to  rise.  When  light, 
put  on  the  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  for  twenty  minutes.  Now 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Chop  the  candied  fruit,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  half- 
cup  of  sugar  and  a  half-cup  of  boiling  water,  let  boil  five 
minutes ;  take  from  the  fire,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  caramel, 
and,  if  you  use  it,  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy.  When  the 
pudding  is  done,  turn  it  from  the  mould,  fill  the  hole  in 
the  centre  with  candied  fruit,  and  serve  with  Brandy  Sauce. 

CABINET  PUDDING 

i  quart  of  broken  stale  cake      3  eggs 

or  bread  il/2  pints  of  milk 

^  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Beat  the  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  together,  until  light ;  add 

the  milk,  and,  if  you  use  cake,  two  tablespoon  fuls  of  sugar; 

if  bread,  a  half-cup  of  sugar.     Grease  a  pudding  mould, 


392  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

sprinkle  the  bottom  with  raisins,  then  put  in  a  layer  of 
cake  or  bread,  then  a  sprinkling  of  raisins,  and  so  on  until 
the  cake  or  bread  is  all  used.  Add  the  vanilla  and  salt  to 
the  milk  and  egg,  pour  it  into  the  mould ;  it  should  just 
cover  the  bread  or  cake.  Put  on  the  lid  of  the  mould  and 
let  it  stand  fifteen  minutes ;  then  place  in  a  pot  of  boiling 
water,  and  boil  continuously  for  one  hour.  Turn  it  care- 
fully out  of  the  mould.  Serve  hot,  with  Lemon  Sauce. 

COUSIN    CAROLINE'S  PUDDING 

i  cup  of  molasses  i  cup  of  milk 

y2  cup  of  melted  butter    y2  cup  of  wine 
3^  cups  of  flour  i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

y?  teaspoonful  of  baking-  y2  teaspoonful  of  cloves 
soda  i  nutmeg,  grated 

i  pinch  of  salt 

Dissolve  the  baking-soda  in  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water, 
then  stir  it  in  the  molasses  ;  add  the  butter  melted,  then 
the  milk  and  flour ;  beat  all  until  smooth ;  then  add  the 
spice,  salt  and  wine  \  pour  it  into  a  two-quart  mould,  well- 
greased,  or  a  floured  pudding-bag,  allowing  it  plenty  of 
room  to  swell,  and  put  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water  to  boil 
continuously  for  three  hours.  Serve  hot,  with  Foamy  Sauce. 

COTTAGE  PUDDING 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter      2  eggs 

i  cup  of  sugar  i  large  teaspoonful  of 

y>,  cup  of  milk  baking-powder 

i^  cups  of  flour 

Beat  the  butter,  sugar  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  together  until 
light;  add  the  milk  and  then  the  flour.  Beat  well.  Now 
beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  them 
carefully  into  the  pudding ;  add  the  baking-powder,  and  mix 
well ;  pour  into  a  greased  cake  pan  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Serve  hot,  with  Lemon 
Sauce. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  393 

BAKED  INDIAN  PUDDING 
(Mrs.  E.  C.  Walraven,  Philadelphia) 

Into  a  quart  of  boiling  milk  stir  gradually  three  gills  of 
yellow  Indian  meal,  a  half-pint  of  molasses  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt.  Scald  thoroughly  and  add  two  tablespoon fuls 
of  powdered  ginger.  Into  a  buttered  earthen  pan  pour  a 
quart  of  cold  milk,  and  add  a  half-pound  of  chopped  beef's 
suet ;  into  this  pour  the  scalded  Indian  meal,  stir  well,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  five  hours.  Serve  with  Hard 
Sauce. 

STEAMED  INDIAN  PUDDING 

i^  pound  of  beef's  suet 
Small  piece  of  stick  cinnamon 
Grated  rind  of  one  lemon 
i  pint  of  Indian  meal 
i  pint  of  milk 
3  eggs 
i  gill  of  molasses 

Chop  the  suet  very  fine  and  mix  it  with  the  Indian  meal. 
Put  the  cinnamon  in  the  milk,  then  put  it  in  a  farina  boiler 
to  scald,  strain  it  while  hot,  and  stir  in  gradually  the  Indian 
meal  and  suet ;  add  the  molasses,  cover  the  mixture,  and 
let  it  stand  over  night.  In  the  morning  beat  the  eggs,  with- 
out separating,  until  very  light,  stir  them  into  the  pudding, 
turn  into  a  greased  mould  or  a  well-floured  pudding-bag, 
leaving  plenty  of  room  for  it  to  swell.  If  in  a  mould,  put 
on  the  cover ;  if  in  a  bag,  secure  it  well  at  the  tying-plare, 
lest  the  water  should  get  in,  which  will  infallibly  spoil  it. 
Put  it  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  continuously 
for  five  hours.  Replenish  the  water,  as  it  evaporates,  with 
boiling  water.  When  ready  to  serve,  remove  the  pudding 
carefully  from  the  mould  or  bag,  and  serve  immediately 
with  Wine  Sauce. 


394  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

THE  PUDDING  OF  LONG  AGO 

4  large  tart  apples  ^  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 

4  ounces  of  stale  bread  crumbs     ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 
i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon  4  eggs 

Pare  and  chop  the  apples  very  fine  ;  mix  them  with  the 
bread  crumbs.  Beat  the  eggs  separately  until  very  light, 
then  add  the  yolks  to  the  crumbs,  stir  in  the  whites  care- 
fully, add  the  salt,  cinnamon,  and  nutmeg ;  mix  carefully, 
and  boil  in  a  greased  mould  three  hours.  Serve  hot,  with 
Foamy  Sauce.  Good. 

NEW  CENTURY  PUDDING 

i  cup  of  suet  i  cup  of  currants 

i  cup  of  sugar  2  eggs 

i  cup  of  milk          y^,  teaspoonful  of  salt 
3  cups  of  flour          i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 
i  cup  of  raisins         i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
Shred   and   chop   the  suet  fine ;  stone  the  raisins ;  pick, 
wash,  and  dry  the  currants.     Beat  the  suet,   sugar,  and 
yolks  of  the  eggs  together  until  light,  then  add  the  milk 
and   flour ;    beat   until  smooth,  add  the  spices,  salt,  and 
whites  of   the  eggs  well   beaten  ;    then    add  the  baking- 
powder  ;  mix  well,  and  add  the  fruit  well  floured  ;  turn 
into   a   greased   mould,  and   boil   continuously  for   three 
hours.     Serve  hot,  with  Wine  or  Hard  Sauce.      Good. 

FIG  PUDDING 

Make  the  same  as  New  Century  Pudding,  using  one  pound 
of  figs  cut  into  small .  pieces,  instead  of  the  raisins  and 
currants. 

FRENCH    FRUIT  PUDDING 

Make  the  same  as  New  Century  Pudding,  using  a  half-pound 
of  candied  cherries  and  a  half-pound  of  candied  green  gages, 
instead  of  the  raisins  and  currants. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  395 

DATE  PUDDING 

Make  the  same  as  New  Century  Pudding,  using  one  pound 
of  dates  stoned  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  instead  of  the 

raisins  and  currants. 

SARATOGA  PUDDING 

i  cup  of  molasses          3  cups  of  flour 
i  cup  of  milk  i  cup  of  chopped  suet 

i  cup  of  raisins  i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

i  cup  of  currants        ^  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 
i  gill  of  brandy          ^  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Mix  the  suet  and  molasses,  add  the  milk,  then  the  flour  and 
spices ;    beat  well,   then   add  the   fruit  well   floured,   the 
brandy,  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder ;  mix  all 
well  together,  and  turn  into  a  greased  mould  or  pudding- 
bag  ;  allow  plenty  of  room  for  swelling,  and  boil  contin- 
ually for  three  hours.     Serve  hot,  with  Brandy  Sauce. 

PEACH  PUDDING 

6  large  peaches 

i  pint  of  flour 

i  egg 

y2  teaspoonful  of  salt 
y±  cup  of  milk 

Butter  the  size  of  an  egg 

i  large  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  then  add  the  salt  and  baking- 
powder.  Pare  the  peaches,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  take 
out  the  stones.  Beat  the  egg  until  light,  add  it  to  the  milk, 
and  pour  this  into  the  flour ;  give  a  thorough  beating,  and 
pour  into  a  greased  baking-pan.  Have  the  batter  about  one 
inch  thick.  Put  the  peaches  over  this,  the  stone  side  up, 
fill  the  hollow  places  with  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
thirty  minutes.  Serve  hot,  with  sugar  and  cream. 
Apples  may  be  used  instead  of  peaches. 


3%  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

ENGLISH  PLUM  PUDDING 
(A  Two- Guinea  Prize  Plum  Pudding) 

Out  of  five  hundred  recipes  sent  the  Queen,  the  following 
was  awarded  the  prize : — 

i  pound  of  raisins  %  pound  of  flour 

i  pound  of  suet,  chopped  fine        i  pound  of  currants 

24  pound  of  stale  bread  crumbs     ^  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 

%  pound  of  brown  sugar  5  eggs 

Grated  rind  of  one  lemon  ^  pint  of  brandy 

y*  pound  of  minced  candied  orange-peel 

Clean,  wash,  and  dry  the  currants.  Stone  the  raisins. 
Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  well  together.  Beat  the  eggs, 
add  to  them  the  brandy,  then  pour  them  over  the  dry  in- 
gredients, and  thoroughly  mix.  Pack  into  greased  small 
kettles  or  moulds  (this  will  make  about  six  pounds),  and 
boil  for  six  hours  at  the  time  of  making,  and  six  hours 
when  wanted  for  use.  Serve  with  Hard  or  Brandy  Sauce. 


PLAIN  PLUM  PUDDING 
(Miss  Emily  Campbell,  Philadelphia) 

i  pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs     i  teaspoon  ful  of  cinnamon 

i  cup  of  flour  y<z  nutmeg,  grated 

i  cup  of  stoned  rasins  ^  cup  of  molasses 

Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon     3  eggs 

i  cup  of  washed  currants         ^  pound  of  suet 

i  cup  of  brown  sugar  yz  pound  of  citron 

y2  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda 

Mix  well  all  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the 
molasses.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  a  tablespoonful  of  hot  water, 
add  it  to  the  molasses  and  eggs,  then  mix  into  the  dry  in- 
gredients, and  pack  into  a  greased  mould;  boil  four  hours. 
Serve  with  Hard  or  Brandy  Sauce. 


PUDDINGS   AND    DESSERTS  397 

SWEET    POTATO   PUDDING 

y2  pound  of  sweet  potatoes         J^  pound  of  sugar 
Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon       6  ounces  of  butter 
Juice  and  rind  of  one  orange      8  eggs 
^  teaspoon ful  of  mace  ^2  teaspoonful  of  salt 

i  even  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

Pare  the  potatoes  and  grate  them.  Beat  the  butter  and 
sugar  to  a  cream.  Beat  the  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  to- 
gether, until  very,  very  light,  then  add  them  to  the  butter 
and  sugar ;  add  the  grated  potatoes  and  all  the  other  in- 
gredients, beat  well,  turn  into  a  buttered  baking-dish,  and 
bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Serve  hot  or  cold  with  sauce. 

If  you  use  liquor,  you  may  add  to  the  pudding,  when 
mixing,  one  gill  of  sherry  and  two  tablespoon fuls  of  brandy. 

ROLY  POLY         No.  i 

«,       ]/2  pound  of  flour  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

5  ounces  of  suet  i  pint  of  fruit  jam  or  jelly 

Free  the  suet  from  the  fibre  and  skin,  and  then  chop  it  very 
fine,  add  the  flour  and  salt;  mix  well,  and  add  gradually 
sufficient  cold  water  to  make  it  stick  together.  Now  roll  it 
out  (about  one  inch  in  thickness)  on  a  well-floured  baking- 
board,  spread  the  jam  thickly  over  the  paste,  roll  it  up,  and 
tie  in  a  well-floured  cloth,  leaving  plenty  of  room  for  it  to 
swell.  Put  it  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  two 
hours,  or  it  may  be  steamed  two  hours  and  a  half.  Serve 
hot,  with  Foamy  Sauce. 

ROLY  POLY         No.  2 

Take  about  one  quart  of  bread  dough  that  is  light  enough 
to  bake,  and  roll  it  out  about  a  half-inch  in  thickness, 
spread  it  all  over  with  fruit,  jam  or  preserves,  and  finish  same 
as  Roly  Poly,  No.  i. 


398  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

SUET  PUDDING 

i  cup  of  suet  i  cup  of  molasses 

i  cup  of  raisins  i  cup  of  milk 

3  cups  of  flour  i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

YZ  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
Shred  and  chop  the  suet  fine.  Pick  and  stone  the  raisins. 
Add  the  molasses  to  the  suet,  then  the  milk;  mix  well,  and 
add  the  salt,  flour,  and  cinnamon  ;  beat  vigorously  for  two 
minutes,  then  add  the  raisins,  well  floured,  and  the  baking- 
powder  ;  mix  thoroughly,  and  turn  into  a  greased  mould 
or  pudding-bag.  Boil  continually  for  three  hours.  Serve 
hot,  with  Wine  or  Hard  Sauce. 

TAPIOCA  PUDDING 
i  cup  of  tapioca  i  quart  of  milk 

4  eggs  i^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

^  cup  of  sugar  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Wash  the  tapioca  through  several  cold  waters,  then  add  it 
to  the  milk  and  soak  two  hours.  Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar 
together  until  light,  add  the  salt,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

WAFER  PUDDING 

^*    i  pint  of  milk  ^  pint  of  flour 

y?  pound  of  butter  Yolks  of  seven  eggs 

Whites  of  four  eggs 

Put  the  milk  in  a  farina  boiler,  when  boiling  add  the  but- 
ter, stir  until  dissolved,  then  quickly  throw  in  the  flour, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes.  Take  from  the 
fire  and  stand  aside  to  cool.  Beat  the  yolks  and  whites 
together  until  very,  very  light,  add  them  to  the  mixture, 
and  beat  with  the  hand  for  ten  minutes.  Cover,  and  stand 
in  a  warm  place  for  one  hour.  Grease  gem  pans  or  muffin, 
rings,  put  a  tablespoonful  of  the  mixture  in  each  one,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  forty  minutes.  Serve  hot,  with 
Foamy  Sauce. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  399 

COLD    PUDDINGS 

BIRD'S-NEST    PUDDING     (COLD) 

FOR    THE    NEST 

Make  an  Orange  Jelly  (see  recipe).  Turn  a  pie  dish  upside 
down  in  the  bottom  of  a  two-quart  round  tin  basin,  pour 
the  jelly  in  the  basin  over  the  pie  dish,  and  stand  away  to 
harden. 

FOR   THE    STRAWS 

Cut  the  orange  peel  into  fine  strips  with  the  scissors.  Boil 
one  cup  of  sugar  and  a  half-cup  of  water  to  the  crack,  that 
is,  until  it  hardens  when  dropped  in  cold  water.  Dip  the 
straws  into  this  syrup  and  place  on  greased  papers  to  harden. 

FOR   THE    EGGS 

Put  one  pint  of  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler,  moisten 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  with  a  little  cold  milk, 
and  stir  into  the  boiling  milk;  stir  until  it  thickens,  then 
add  a  quarter-cup  of  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
Have  ready  some  egg  shells  that  have  been  emptied  from  a 
small  hole  in  the  top,  fill  them  with  this  mixture,  stand  in 
a  pan  of  Indian  meal  or  flour  to  prevent  them  from  falling 
over,  and  put  in  a  cold  place  to  harden. 

When  the  jelly  is  hard,  whip  a  pint  of  cream.  Now 
turn  the  jelly  out  on  a  round  glass  dish,  remove  the  pie 
dish  carefully,  put  the  straws  around  the  space  left  by  the 
pie  dish,  representing  a  nest,  and  fill  the  nest,  inside  the 
straws, ,  with  the  whipped  cream,  representing  feathers. 
Break  the  shells  carefully  off  the  corn-starch  eggs,  and  put 
them  in  the  centre  of  the  nest,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

Just  as  troublesome  as  it  reads,  but  beautiful  when 
done. 

BREAD   AND   BUTTER  PUDDING 
Cut  in  thin  slices  a  baker's  five -cent  loaf.     Wash  and  pick 
one  cup  of  currants.     Butter  each  slice  of  bread.     Put  a 


400  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

layer  of  this  bread  in  the  bottom  of  a  one-quart  mould  or 
basin,  then  a  sprinkling  of  currants,  and  so  on  until  all  is 
used.  Beat  four  eggs  and  a  half-cup  of  sugar  together 
until  light ;  add  gradually  one  pint  of  milk,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  nutmeg,  grated.  Pour  this  over  the  bread,  let  stand 
fifteen  minutes  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  thirty  minutes. 
Serve  cold,  with  Cream  Sauce. 

CREAM  CHOCOLATE  PUDDING 

i  pint  of  milk       4  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch 
YZ  cup  of  sugar      2  ounces  of  chocolate 

4  eggs  i  teaspoon ful  of  vanilla 

Put  the  chocolate  in  a  saucepan,  and  stand  it  over  the  tea- 
kettle to  melt;  stir  until  perfectly  smooth.  Put  the  milk 
on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler;  moisten  the  corn-starch  with 
a  little  cold  water  (about  a  quarter-cup),  and  add  it  to  the 
boiling  milk;  cook  and  stir  until  thick  and  smooth.  Beat 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ;  add  the  sugar  to  the 
milk,  then  the  whites,  and  beat  all  well  together  over  the 
fire.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla.  Now  take  out 
one-third  of  the  mixture,  add  to  it  the  chocolate;  mix 
well.  Dip  a  plain  pudding  mould  into  cold  water,  put  in 
the  bottom  of  it  half  the  white  mixture,  then  all  the  dark, 
and  then  the  remainder  of  the  white.  Stand  on  the  ice 
for  three  hours  to  harden.  Serve  with  Vanilla  Sauce  poured 
around  it. 

COCOANUT    PUDDING 

i  cocoanut  ^  cup  of  sugar 

i  pint  of  milk  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

3  eggs 

Beat  the  eggs  all  together  until  light,  add  the  milk,  sugar, 
vanilla,  and  cocoanut,  grated;  stir  until  thoroughly  mixed, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  minutes.  Serve 
cold. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  401 

CREAM    COCOANUT    PUDDING 

2  cups  of  grated  cocoanut  i  pint  of  milk 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch     4  eggs 
i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  ^  cup  of  sugar 

Put  the  milk  in  a  farina  boiler  ;  moisten  the  corn -starch  in  a 
little  cold  milk,  then  add  it  to  the  boiling  milk ;  stir  until 
smooth.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth. 
Add  the  sugar  to  the  pudding,  then  the  whites.  Beat  well 
over  the  fire  for  three  minutes.  Now  add  the  cocoanut  and 
vanilla,  and  turn  into  a  mould  to  harden.  Serve  with 
Vanilla  Sauce. 

CREAM    CORN-STARCH   PUDDING     (VANILLA) 

i  pint  of  milk 
YZ  cup  of  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

4  even  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch 

4  eggs 

Make  the  same  as  Chocolate  Pudding,  omitting  the  choco- 
late, and  adding  the  vanilla  to  the  whole  pudding. 

DANDY  PUDDING 

1  quart  of  milk 
4  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch 
y<2,  cup  of  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil.  Moisten  the  corn-starch  with  a 
little  cold  milk,  and  add  to  the  boiling  milk.  Stir  and  boil 
for  five  minutes.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  sugar  to- 
gether until  light,  and  add  to  the  boiling  milk.  Take  from 
the  fire,  add  the  flavoring,  and  pour  it  into  a  baking-dish. 
Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  add  to 
them  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and  heap  on 
the  top  of  the  pudding  ;  put  it  in  the  oven  for  a  few  min- 
utes, until  a  light  brown.  Serve  ice  cold. 


402  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

GELATINE  PUDDING 

*/£  box  of  gelatine         i  pint  of  boiling  water 
i  cup  of  sugar  Juice  of  two  lemons 

Juice  of  two  oranges 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  a  half-cup  of  cold  water,  and  let  it 
soak  a  half-hour  ;  then  pour  over  it  the  boiling  water,  add 
the  sugar,  lemon,  and  orange  juice,  stir  until  dissolved,  and 
strain  through  a  flannel  bag.  Take  out  a  half-cup  of  this 
liquid  and  add  to  it  a  half-teaspoon ful  of  cochineal  jelly 
coloring  j  mix  well ;  turn  it  into  a  pie  plate,  and  stand  it 
away  to  harden.  Wet  a  fancy  pudding-mould  with  cold 
water,  and,  if  it  has  a  rose  or  a  bunch  of  grapes  in  the 
bottom  of  it,  take  out  a  little  more  of  the  liquid  and  color 
it,  and  fill  that  part  of  the  mould,  so  that  when  you  turn 
the  pudding  out,  the  rose  on  top  will  be  pink,  and  the 
pudding  its  natural  color.  Stand  the  mould  away  until  this 
hardens,  then  pick  it  on  the  surface  with  a  fork  (this  makes 
the  other  jelly  stick  to  it,  and  will  not  separate  when  you 
turn  it  out).  Now  pour  in  the  remainder  of  the  liquid, 
which  should  be  cold,  but  not  jellied.  Now  stand  it  away 
for  three  or  four  hours.  Put  one  pint  of  milk  on  to  boil 
in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  add  to  them  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  mix  very  carefully.  Now  place  two  or  three  spoonfuls 
on  the  top  of  the  boiling  milk,  cover,  and  let  stand  one 
minute.  Remove  with  a  skimmer,  and  place  on  a  colander 
to  drain.  Now  cover  the  top  of  the  milk  again  with  two 
or  three  spoonfuls,  and  so  on  until  all  the  whites  are  cooked. 
Now  beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar  until  light,  and  then  stir  them  into  the  boiling  milk ; 
stir  and  cook  one  minute.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  turn  out  to  cool.  When  ready 
to  serve  the  pudding,  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  on  a  glass 
dish,  pour  the  yellow  sauce  around  it ;  stand  the  cooked 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  403 

whites  around  the  base.  Cut  the  colored  jelly  that  you 
hardened  in  the  pie  dish  into  squares  or  fancy  shapes, 
placing  them  here  and  there  over  the  whites  as  your  taste 
may  direct. 

HESTON  PUDDING 

i  pint  of  boiling  water         4  even  tablespoon fuls  of  corn  - 
3  eggs  starch 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla        2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 

^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Moisten  the  corn-starch  with  a  little  cold  water,  add  it  to 
the  boiling  water,  sugar,  and  salt ;  stir,  and  boil  ten  min- 
utes. Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla  and  the.well- 
beaten  whites  of  the  eggs ;  mix  well,  and  turn  into  a  mould 
to  harden.  Serve  with  a  Vanilla  Sauce  made  from  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs. 

MARLBOROUGH    PUDDING 
i  pint  of  stewed  apples      i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
y2  cup  of  butter  2  cups  of  sugar 

6  eggs  i  quart  of  milk 

Press  the  apples  through  a  sieve.  Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar 
together,  then  add  the  milk  and  flavoring.  Add  the  but- 
ter to  the  apples  while  hot,  then  mix  with  the  milk  and 
eggs  ;  pour  into  a  baking-dish,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
thirty-five  minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  until 
frothy,  add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and  beat 
until  they  will  stand  alone.  Heap  them  over  the  top  of 
the  pudding,  and  put  back  in  the  oven  a  moment  to  brown. 
Serve  cold,  with  sugar  and  cream. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

NEWPORT  PUDDING 

Pare  and  core  six  medium-sized  apples  ;  steam  until  tender. 
While  they  are  steaming,  boil  a  half-cup  of  sugar,  a  quarter- 
cup  of  water,  and  the  juice  of  one  orange  together  for  five 
minutes.  When  the  apples  are  done,  place  them  in  the 


404  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

bottom  of  a  baking-dish,  pour  over  them  the  boiling  syrup, 
and  stand  aside  to  cool.  Put  one  pint  of  milk  on  to  boil. 
Beat  a  half-cup  of  sugar  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  to- 
gether, and  add  to  the  boiling  milk.  Take  from  the  fire, 
add  six  macaroons  pounded  fine,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
Fill  the  spaces  from  which  the  cores  were  taken  with  pre- 
serves ;  pour  this  custard  over  the  apples,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  fifteen  minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of  the 
three  eggs  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  to  a 
stiff  froth,  heap  them  over  the  top  of  the  pudding,  and  put 
back  in  the  oven  a  moment  to  brown.  Serve  icy  cold. 
This  will  fill  a  two-quart  baking-dish. 

ORANGE  PUDDING 

%  pound  of  macaroons          yz  cupful  of  sugar 

i  pint  of  milk  4  eggs 

The  rind  of  one  and  juice  of  two  oranges. 
Put  the  macaroons  in  the  milk,  and  soak  until  soft.  Beat 
the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  light  (do  not  separate  the 
eggs),  then  add  them  to  the  milk  and  beat  the  whole  until 
.smooth ;  then  add  the  orange  juice  and  rind.  Pour  into 
a  well-buttered  pudding-mould  (a  small  tin  kettle  will 
answer),  put  on  the  cover,  stand  the  mould  in  a  pot  of 
boiling  water,  and  boil  continuously  for  one  hour.  Serve 
hot  with  Orange  Sauce. 

Lemon  pudding  may  be  made  the  same  as  Orange 
Pudding,  using  the  juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon.  Serve 
with  Lemon  Sauce. 

QUAKING  PUDDING 

1  cup  of  grated  bread  crumbs     i  quart  of  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  rice  flour      4  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  A  grating  of  nutmeg 

Put  the  bread  crumbs  into  a  bowl.     Beat  the  eggs,  sugar, 
and  rice  flour  together  until  light,  then  add  them  to  the 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  405 

milk ;  then  pour  this  over  the  crumbs,  add  the  nutmeg,  mix 
well,  and  pour  into  a  greased  mould  or  pudding-bag.  Put 
in  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  continuously  one  hour. 
Serve  hot,  with  Wine  or  Lemon  Sauce. 

QUEEN  MAB'S    PUDDING 

^  box  of  gelatine  i  pint  of  milk 

i  pint  of  cream  4  eggs 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  ^3  of  a  cup  of  sugar 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water,  and  soak  a  half-hour. 
Whip  the  cream.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil ;  when  boiling, 
dissolve  the  gelatine  in  it,  and  strain.  Beat  the  yolks  and 
sugar  together,  stir  into  the  boiling  milk,  and  cook  two 
minutes.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla,  and  turn  out 
into  a  tin  basin  to  cool.  Stand  the  basin  in  a  pan  of 
cracked  ice,  and  stir  constantly  until  it  begins  to  thicken  ; 
then  add  the  whipped  cream ;  mix  thoroughly,  turn  into  a 
mould,  and  set  away  to  harden.  Serve  with  whipped  cream 
heaped  around  it. 

QUEEN    OF  ALL   PUDDINGS 

i  pint  of  bread  crumbs     i  quart  of  milk 

i  cup  of  sugar  4  eggs 

i  ounce  of  butter  Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 

Soak  the  crumbs  in  the  milk  for  a  half-hour.  Beat  the 
yolks  and  sugar  together  until  light,  then  add  them  to 
the  crumbs  and  milk;  mix  and  add  the  lemon.  Pour  into 
the  pudding  dish,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  a  half-hour. 
Whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  until  frothy;  add  to  them  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and  beat  until  very  stiff. 
When  the  pudding  is  done,  put  over  the  top  a  layer  of  the 
whites,  then  a  layer  of  fruit  jelly,  then  another  layer  of 
whites,  and  put  back  in  the  oven  a  moment  to  brown. 
Serve  cold,  with  Cream  Sauce. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 


406  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

ROYAL   DIPLOMATIC   PUDDING 

i  box  of  gelatine  Juice  of  four  oranges 

Juice  of  four  lemons  i  pound  of  sugar 

i  pint  of  cold  water  i^  pints  of  boiling  water 

y^  pound  of  candied  cherries     ^  pound  of  angelica 
Half  the  rule  for  Orange  Cream 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  cold  water,  and  let  soak  one 
hour.  Then  pour  on  it  the  boiling  water  ;  add  the  sugar, 
and  the  juice  of  the  oranges  and  lemons;  stir  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved ;  strain  through  a  flannel  bag,  and  stand  away  to 
cool,  but  not  harden.  Have  two  plain  moulds,  one  hold- 
ing two  quarts,  and  the  other  holding  one  quart.  While 
the  jelly  is  cooling,  dip  the  larger  mould  into  ice  water,  and 
garnish  with  the  cherries  and  angelica;  dip  them  in  a  little 
of  the  jelly  and  that  will  make  them  stick  to  the  mould, 
and  you  can  then  arrange  them  in  any  form  you  choose. 
For  instance,  make  a  rose  of  the  cherries,  and  leaves  and 
stems  of  the  angelica.  Then  cover  with  a  little  of  the 
liquid  gelatine,  which  must  be  cold,  and  stand  it  in  a  pan 
of  cracked  ice  to  harden.  When  this  jelly  is  perfectly 
hard,  set  the  small  mould  in  the  centre  of  the  large  one, 
and  fill  it  with  cracked  ice ;  fill  the  space  between  the  two 
moulds  with  the  remainder  of  the  liquid  jelly,  and  stand 
away  until  perfectly  hard;  this  will  take  at  least  five 
hours.  When  hard,  remove  the  ice  from  the  small  mould; 
dip  out  with  a  spoon,  the  water  from  the  melted  ice,  and 
wipe  the  inside  of  the  mould  with  a  towel  that  has  been 
dipped  in  warm  water.  This  will  loosen  the  mould,  and 
you  can  lift  it  out  carefully,  Fill  the  vacant  space  with  the 
orange  cream ;  stand  away  in  a  cold  place  for  three  hours. 
Serve  with  a  Vanilla  Sauce  poured  around  it. 

This  is  a  troublesome  pudding,   but  very  good  and 
sightly. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  407 

SNOW   PUDDING 

YZ  box  of  gelatine  Juice  of  three  lemons 

2  cups  of  sugar  i  quart  of  milk 

4  eggs  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

i  pint  of  boiling  water 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak  a  half- 
hour.  Then  pour  over  it  the  boiling  water,  add  the  sugar, 
and  stir  until  it  is  dissolved ;  then  add  the  lemon  juice, 
and  strain  the  whole  into  a  tin  basin ;  place  this  in  a  pan 
of  ice-water,  and  let  stand  until  cold.  When  cold,  beat 
with  an  egg  beater,  until  as  white  as  snow;  beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  them  into  the  pudding. 
Dip  a  fancy  mould  into  cold  water;  turn  the  pudding  into 
it,  and  stand  in  a  cold  place  four  hours  to  harden. 

THE  SAUCE 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil,  beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  a 
half-cup  of  sugar  together  until  light,  and  stir  them  into 
the  boiling  milk.  Stir  and  cook  two  minutes.  Take  from 
the  fire,  add  the  vanilla,  and  turn  out  to  cool.  Serve  the 
pudding  with  the  sauce  poured  around  it. 

WIGWAM   PUDDING 
(Mrs.  John  W.  Pepper,  Philadelphia) 

^  pound  of  lady  fingers       i  tumbler  of  strawberry  jelly 

i  pint  of  milk  4  eggs 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla       8  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 

i  gill  of  sherry  sugar 

Juice  of  half  a  lemon 

Split  the  lady  fingers  and  spread  the  flat  side  with  jelly; 
dip  the  crust  side  in  the  sherry.  Line  the  bottom  and  sides 
of  the  dish  in  which  you  wish  to  serve  it  with  these  lady 
fingers,  and  place  the  remaining  lady  fingers,  log-cabin 
style,  in  the  centre  of  the  dish — that  is,  cross  them  so 
that  the  custard  will  pass  between.  Now  put  the  milk 


408  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  sugar  together  un- 
til light,  stir  into  the  boiling  milk,  and  stir  continually 
until  it  thickens;  take  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla,  and 
stand  aside  to  cool.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  adding 
gradually  the  remaining  sugar,  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  then  beat 
until  they  will  stand  alone;  add  the  lemon,  and  mix  thor- 
oughly. Pour  the  custard  over  the  lady  fingers ;  heap  the 
meringue  over  the  top,  and  stand  on  a  board  in  the  oven  a 
moment  to  brown.  Brown  quickly  before  the  dish  heats, 
or  the  pudding  will  curdle. 

This  will  serve  six  persons. 


FROZEN    PUDDINGS 

ICED     CABINET     PUDDING 

I  quart  of  milk 
6  eggs 

^  pound  of  pulverized  sugar 

*4  box  of  gelatine 

%  pound  of  macaroons  and  lady  fingers  mixed 

yz  pound  of  candied  cherries  or  preserved  fruit 

J<£  pound  of  stale  sponge  cake 

Cut  the  sponge  cake  into  small  pieces.  Pound  the  maca- 
roons and  lady  fingers  and  rub  them  through  a  coarse  sieve. 
Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  eggs 
until  creamy,  then  add  the  sugar;  beat  until  smooth,  and 
stir  into  the  boiling  milk  ;  stir  until  it  coats  a  knife -blade ; 
take  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  gelatine,  which  has  been 
covered  with  cold  water,  and  soak  a  half-hour;  then  strain 
and  stand  aside  to  cool.  Garnish  the  bottom  of  a  melon 
or  brick  mould  with  the  candied  cherries  or  preserves ; 
then  put  in  a  layer  of  the  broken  sponge  cake,  then  a 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  409 

sprinkling  of  the  pounded  macaroons  and  lady  ringers, 
then  another  layer  of  cherries,  then  a  layer  of  broken 
sponge  cake,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used.  Add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  to  the  custard  ;  pour  it  into  the  mould 
and  cover  the  mould  tightly  with  the  lid.  Dip  a  piece  of 
muslin  two  inches  wide,  and  long  enough  to  go  around  the 
mould,  into  melted  butter  ;  bind  it  over  the  joint  where 
the  lid  and  mould  come  together ;  pack  in  ice  and  salt, 
and  freeze  three  hours.  When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the 
mould  quickly  into  hot  water,  and  turn  the  pudding  on  a 
cold  dish.  Serve  with  Montrose  Sauce. 
This  will  serve  ten  persons. 

MONTROSE  PUDDING 

i  quart  of  good  cream       Yolks  of  six  eggs 

i  cup  of  granulated  sugar  i  tablespoonful  of  vanilla 

i  pint  of  strawberry  water-ice 

Put  one  pint  of  cream  on  to  boil  in  farina  boiler.  Beat 
the  yolks  and  sugar  together  until  light,  stir  them  into  the 
boiling  cream,  and  cook  and  stir  until  it  thickens  (about 
one  minute).  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  remaining  pint 
of  cream,  and  the  vanilla,  let  stand  until  cool,  and  freeze. 
When  frozen,  pack  into  a  round  mould,  or  bomb,  leaving 
a  well  in  the  centre.  Fill  this  well  with  the  strawberry 
water-ice,  cover  it  over  with  some  of  the  pudding  you 
have  taken  out.  Pack  in  salt  and  ice,  and  let  stand  until 
wanted  (not  less  that  two  hours).  Serve  with  the  follow- 
ing sauce  poured  around  it. 

THE    SAUCE 

i  heaping  tablespoonful       i  pint  of  cream 

of  gelatine  Yolks  of  three  eggs 

%  cup  of  pulverized  sugar    i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
Cover  the  gelatine  with  a  little  cold  water,  and  soak  a  half- 
hour.     Put  the  cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.     Beat 


410  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  light,  add  to  the  boiling 
cream,  stir  until  it  thickens  (about  one  minute),  add  the 
gelatine,  stir  until  dissolved;  take  from  the  fire,  add  the 
vanilla,  and  (if  you  use  it)  two  tablespoon fuls  of  brandy 
and  four  of  sherry.  Stand  it  away  in  a  cold  place  until 
wanted. 

If  you  have  no  round  mould,  use  the  freezer  to  mould  it. 

This  quantity  will  serve  twelve  persons. 

NESSELRODE  PUDDING 

i  pint  of  chestnuts  i  pint  of  almonds 

i  pint  of  sugar  i  pint  of  cream 

i  pint  of  boiling  water      i  pineapple  or  one  pint  of 

i  pound  of  French  can-  canned 

died  fruit  (mixed)  Yolks  of  six  eggs 
Shell  the  chestnuts,  take  off  the  brown  skin,  put  them  in  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  boil  twenty  min- 
utes, then  press  them  through  a  colander.  Shell,  blanch 
and  pound  the  almonds.  Cut  the  fruit  into  small  pieces. 
Put  the  water  and  sugar  on  to  boil;  let  it  boil  fifteen  min- 
utes. Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  until  very  light;  add 
them  to  the  boiling  syrup;  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  boils, 
then  take  it  off,  and  beat  with  a  wire  spoon  until  cold. 
Now  add  the  fruit,  cream,  almonds,  chestnuts,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vanilla,  and  (if  you  use  wine)  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sherry.  •  Mix  all  well  together,  turn  into  the  freezer, 
and  freeze.  After  it  is  frozen,  drain  off  the  water,  add 
more  salt  and  ice,  cover  the  freezer  with  a  piece  of  carpet, 
and  stand  away  for  four  or  five  hours  to  ripen. 
This  will  serve  fifteen  persons. 

MY  QUEEN  PUDDING 

Pack  a  two-quart  bombe-glace  mould  in  salt  and  ice. 
Remove  the  cover,  being  careful  not  to  drop  any  salt  in- 
side the  mould.  Now  line  the  mould  with  strawberry  or 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  411 

pomegranate  water-ice,  fill  the  centre  with  French  bombe 
mixture,  press  the  lid  down  tightly,  cover  with  salt  and  ice, 
and  stand  away  two  hours  or  more  to  freeze.  When  ready 
to  serve,  wash  the  outside  of  the  mould  in  cold  water,  turn 
the  pudding  out  carefully  in  the  centre  of  a  large  round 
dish,  heap  around  it  sweetened  whipped  cream.  Place 
here  and  there  over  the  cream  candied  cherries  and  mar- 
rons  glaces. 

ICED  RICE  PUDDING  WITH  A  COMPOTE  OF 
ORANGES 

FOR   THE    PUDDING 

^  cup  of  rice  i  pint  of  milk 

1  quart  of  cream         i^  cups  of  sugar 

Yolks  of  six  eggs  i  tablespoonful  of  vanilla 

2  quarts  of  rock  salt      10  pounds  of  ice 

Rub  the  rice  well  in  a  clean  towel,  put  it  on  to  boil  in  one 
pint  of  cold  water,  boil  a  half-hour;  drain,  cover  with  the 
milk,  and  boil  a  half-hour  longer.  While  this  is  boiling, 
whip  the  quart  of  cream.  After  you  have  whipped  all  you 
can,  acid  the  remainder,  and  what  has  drained  from  the 
other,  to  the  rice  and  milk.  Stand  the  whipped  cream  in 
a  cold  place  until  wanted.  Now  press  the  rice  through  a 
wire  sieve,  and  return  it  to  the  farina  boiler,  in  which  it 
was  boiled.  Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  together  until  light, 
then  pour  over  the  boiling  rice,  stir  well,  return  again  to 
the  fire  and  cook  two  minutes,  or  until  it  begins  to  thicken. 
Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla,  and  turn  out  to  cool. 
When  cool,  put  into  the  freezer  and  freeze  (see  directions 
for  freezing).  When  frozen,  stir  in  the  whipped  cream, 
remove  the  dasher  and  smooth  down,  and  let  stand  for 
hours,  packed  in  salt  and  ice. 

FOR    THE    COMPOTE 

i  dozen  sweet  oranges  i  pound  of  sugar 

Juice  of  quarter  of  a  lemon    i  gill  of  water 


412  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Put  the  sugar  and  water  on  to  boil ;  boil  ten  minutes,  skim, 
and  add  the  lemon  juice.  Peel  the  oranges,  cut  them  in 
halves  crosswise;  cut  out  the  cores  with  a  sharp  knife;  put 
a  few  pieces  at  a  time  in  the  hot  syrup,  and  lay  them  out 
singly  on  a  flat  dish ;  pour  over  them  the  remaining  syrup 
and  stand  on  the  ice  to  cool. 

To  dish  the  pudding,  lift  the  can  out  of  the  ice  and 
wipe  it  off  so  that  the  salt  will  not  get  into  the  pudding ; 
then  wipe  the  bottom  with  a  towel  dipped  in  boiling  water, 
put  a  round  dish  over  the  top  of  it,  turn  it  upside  down 
and  remove  the  can ;  if  it  should  stick,  wipe  again  with 
the  hot  towel.  Heap  the  oranges  on  top  and  around  the 
base  of  the  pudding,  and  pour  the  syrup  over  them.  Serve 
immediately.  This  is  worth  the  trouble;  besides  being 
good,  it  is  a  very  handsome  dish. 

DESSERTS 

BLANC     MANGE 

I  quart  of  milk  8  even  tablespoonfuls  of 

y^  cup  of  sugar  corn -starch 

i^  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Moisten  the 
corn-starch  with  a  little  cold  milk,  then  add  it  to  the  boil- 
ing milk,  and  stir  until  it  thickens ;  add  the  sugar  and  salt, 
take  from  the  fire,  pour  into  custard  cups,  and  set  away  to 
harden.  Serve  with  Cream  Sauce. 
This  will  serve  five  or  six  persons. 

FRUIT  BLANC  MANGE 

One  quart  of  stewed  or  one  can  of  fruit,  (cherries,  rasp- 
berries, and  strawberries  are  best).  Strain  off  all  the 
juice,  sweeten  it  to  taste,  and  put  it  on  to  boil.  Moisten 
three  even  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  with  a  little  cold 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  413 

water,  and  stir  it  into  the  boiling  juice.     Boil  and  continue 
stirring   five  minutes,   then  add  the  fruit,  pour  it  into  a 
mould  that  has  been  wet  with  ice-water,  and  stand  away  to 
cool.     Serve  cold,  with  sugar  and  cream. 
This  will  fill  a  one-quart  mould. 

CREAM  CAKE  PIE 

Make  a  plain  cup  cake,  and  bake  it  in  an  oval  tin  basin. 
When  done  and  cold,  split  it  into  three  layers.  Put  one 
quart  of  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  six  eggs  and  a  half-cup  of  sugar  together  until  light, 
then  add  the  well-beaten  whites,  and  stir  them  into  the 
boiling  milk;  stir  over  the  fire  for  about  one  minute,  then 
take  from  the  fire,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  stand 
away  to  cool.  When  cold,  and  ready  to  serve,  put  a  layer 
of  this  sauce  between  the  layers  of  cake,  pour  the  remaining 
sauce  around  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  serve  imme- 
diately. 

ORANGE  CAKES  WITH  VANILLA  SAUCE 

Take  small,  stale  sponge  cakes  (lady  fingers),  dip  them  in 
orange  juice,  place  them  in  a  glass  dish,  and  pour  over 
them  Vanilla  Sauce.  Serve  at  once. 

If  you  use  wine,  you  may  dip  them  in  sherry. 

STRAWBERRY  SHORTCAKE 

i  quart  of  flour  2  ounces  of  butter 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  quart  of  cream 

2  quart-boxes  of  strawberries  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
Sugar  and  milk  powder 

Stem  the  berries,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  slightly  mash  them 
with  a  wooden  spoon.  Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  then 
add  the  salt,  baking-powder,  and  sufficient  milk  to  make  a 
soft  dough ;  mix  quickly,  roll  out  about  one  and  one-half 
inches  in  thickness,  put  into  a  greased,  large,  square  baking- 
pan,  and  bake  in  a  very  quick  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 


414  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

When  done,  take  from  the  oven,  split  in  halves  and  spread 
each  half  lightly  with  butter.  Place  the  lower  half  in  a 
large  meat  plate ;  put  half  the  berries  on  this,  then  cover 
with  the  other  half  of  the  shortcake ;  cover  this  with  the 
remaining  half  of  the  berries,  pour  the  cream  around,  and 
serve  immediately. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

APPLE  CHARLOTTE 

6  large  apples  i  pint  of  cream 

y2  box  of  gelatine  Sugar  to  taste 

Pare  and  steam  the  apples  until  tender,  then  press  them 
through  a  colander  and  add  the  sugar.  Cover  the  gelatine 
with  cold  water  and  soak  a  half-hour,  then  add  it  to  the 
hot  apples ;  stir  until  dissolved.  Now  pour  this  into  a  tin 
basin,  stand  the  basin  in  a  pan  of  ice- water,  and  stir  con- 
tinually until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken ;  then  add 
quickly  and  carefully  the  cream,  whipped.  Turn  in  a  fancy 
pudding-mould,  and  stand  in  a  cold  place  to  harden. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

CHARLOTTE    RUSSE 

i  quart  of  good  cream       ^  pound  of  lady  fingers 
Y^  cup  of  powdered  sugar  ^  box  of  gelatine 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  j£  gill  sherry  (if  you  use  wine) 
Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak  for  a 
half-hour.  Whip  the  cream  and  lay  it  on  a  sieve  to  drain. 
Line  two  plain  two-quart  moulds  with  the  lady  fingers. 
Now  turn  the  cream  into  a  large  basin  and  place  it  in  a  pan 
of  cracked  ice ;  add  to  the  soaked  gelatine  just  enough 
boiling  water  to  dissolve  it.  Now  add  the  sugar  carefully 
to  the  cream,  then  the  vanilla  and  wine,  and  last,  strain  in 
the  gelatine.  Commence  to  stir  immediately ;  stir  from 
the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  basin  until  it  begins  to  thicken, 
then  pour  into  the  moulds  and  set  away  on  the  ice  to  harden. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  415 

PARISIAN    CHARLOTTE 

i^  box  of  gelatine  i  quart  of  cream 

i  cup  of  grated  cocoanut   ^  pound  of  stale  lady  fingers 

j^  pound  of  macaroons         4  eggs 

2  tablespoon  fuls  of  sugar 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water  and  let  it  soak  a  half- 
hour.  Whip  one-half  the  cream,  and  stand  it  away  until 
wanted.  Put  the  remaining  half  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler. 
Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  light  (do  not  separate 
the  eggs),  stir  into  the  boiling  milk,  and  stir  one  minute 
until  it  thickens ;  add  the  gelatine,  take  from  the  fire,  add 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  the  lady  fingers,  macaroons 
and  cocoanut,  and  turn  into  a  basin.  Now  place  the  basin 
in  a  pan  of  cracked  ice,  and  stir  continually  until  it  just 
begins  to  thicken  ;  then  add  the  whipped  cream,  and  stir 
very  carefully  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Wet  a  fancy  mould 
with  cold  water,  turn  in  the  mixture  and  stand  on  the  ice 
to  harden. 

Or,  cut  the  centre  out  of  a  one-pound,  stale  sponge 
cake,  leaving  a  bottom  and  sides  about  a  half-inch  thick, 
and  pour  the  mixture  into  this  instead  of  the  mould.  Serve 
with  Montrose  Sauce. 

APRICOT  BAVARIAN  CREAM 

i  pint-can  or  one  pint  fresh      ^  box  of  gelatine 
apricots  ^  pint  of  cold  water 

i  pint  of  cream 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  water  and  let  soak  a  half-hour. 
Press  the  apricots  through  a  colander ;  if  fresh,  first  stew 
and  sweeten  them.  Stir  the  gelatine  over  boiling  water 
until  dissolved.  Whip  the  cream.  Add  the  gelatine  to 
the  apricots,  mix,  and  turn  into  a  tin  basin ;  stand  the 
basin  in  a  pan  of  cracked  ice  or  snow,  and  stir  constantly 
until  it  begins  to  thicken  ;  then  add  the  whipped  cream, 


416  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

stir  carefully  until  thoroughly  mixed  ;  turn  into  a  mould 
and  stand  aside  to  harden.  Serve  with  whipped  cream 
heaped  around  the  base. 


COFFEE  BAVARIAN  CREAM 

y?  box  gelatine  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

YZ  pint  of  milk  i  cup  of  sugar 

i  pint  of  cream  i  cup  strong  boiling  coffee 
Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water  and  let  it  soak  for 
a  half-hour;  then  pour  over  it  the  boiling  coffee; 
add  the  sugar,  and  stir  until  it  is  dissolved  ;  then  strain 
into  a  tin  basin ;  let  stand  until  cool.  While  it  is  cooling, 
whip  the  cream.  When  cool,  add  first  the  milk,  and  then 
the  whipped  cream  ;  stir  carefully  until  thoroughly  mixed, 
turn  into  a  mould,  and  set  away  to  harden. 

Caramel  Bavarian  Cream  may  be  made  as  above,  using 
one  pint  of  milk,  two  tablespoon fuls  of  caramel,  and  a  gill 
of  sherry  instead  of  the  coffee. 


CHOCOLATE  BAVARIAN  CREAM 

i  pint  of  milk  ^  box  of  gelatine 

i  pint  of  cream  2  ounces  of  chocolate 

Y?,  cup  of  sugar  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

y^  cup  of  water 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  water,  and  let  soak  a  half-hour. 
Whip  the  cream,  grate  the  chocolate,  put  the  milk  on  to 
boil;  when  boiling,  add  the  chocolate  and  gelatine,  stir 
until  dissolved.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  sugar  and 
vanilla,  then  turn  into  a  tin  basin  to  cool ;  stir  continually 
until  it  begins  to  thicken,  then  add  the  whipped  cream  ; 
stir  carefully  until  thoroughly  mixed,  then  turn  into  a 
mould  to  harden.  Serve  with  whipped  cream  around  the 
base. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  417 

PEACH  BAVARIAN  CREAM 

Peach  Bavarian  Cream  is  made  precisely  the  same  as  Apri- 
cot Bavarian  Cream,  using  one  pint  can  or  nine  fresh 
peaches. 

PINEAPPLE    BAVARIAN    CREAM 

i  pint  of  grated  pineapple        yz  box  of  gelatine 
YZ  pint  of  sugar  i  pint  of  cream 

YZ  cup  of  cold  water 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  cold  water,  and  let  soak  a  half- 
hour.  Put  the  pineapple  and  sugar  in  a  porcelain -lined 
kettle,  and  let  it  simmer  slowly  while  the  gelatine  is  soak- 
ing. Then  add  the  gelatine  to  the  pineapple,  and  stir  until 
dissolved.  Turn  into  a  tin  basin,  and  finish  the  same  as 
Apricot  Bavarian  Cream. 

One  pint  of  canned  pineapple  may  be  used  in  place  of 
the  fresh,  omitting  the  sugar. 

PLUM  BAVARIAN  CREAM 

Make  precisely  the  same  as  Apricot  Bavarian  Cream,  using 
one  pint  of  preserved  or  canned  plums  instead  of  the 
apricots. 

RASPBERRY  BAVARIAN  CREAM 

YI  box  of  gelatine  i  pint  of  raspberry  juice 

YI  cup  of  sugar  i  pint  of  cream    ' 

YZ  cup  of  water. 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  water,  and  soak  a  half-hour ; 
then  stand  it  over  boiling  water  until  thoroughly  dissolved, 
add  to  it  the  sugar  and  raspberry  juice,  and  strain  into  a 
tin  basin.  Place  the  basin  in  a  pan  of  ice  or  snow,  and  stir 
continually  until  it  thickens,  then  add  the  cream  whipped  ; 
stir  carefully  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Pour  into  a  mould, 
and  stand  in  a  cold  place  to  harden. 


418  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

STRAWBERRY  BAVARIAN  CREAM 

i  quart  of  strawberries         ^  box  of  gelatine 
i  cup  of  sugar  i  pint  of  cream 

YZ  cup  of  cold  water 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  water,  and  soak  a  half-hour. 
Mash  the  berries  and  press  them  through  a  sieve  fine  enough 
to  remove  the  seeds ;  add  the  sugar,  and  stir  until  dis- 
solved. Stand  the  gelatine  over  boiling  water  j  and,  when 
melted,  strain  it  into  the  strawberry  juice  ;  mix,  turn  into 
a  tin  basin,  and  finish  the  same  as  Raspberry  Bavarian 
Cream. 

AMERICAN  CREAM 

Y?,  box  of  gelatine         i  cup  of  sugar 
\y2  pints  of  milk  Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  a  half-cup  of  cold  water,  and  soak 
a  half-hour.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler,  add 
the  gelatine  to  it,  stir  until  dissolved,  strain,  take  from  the 
fire,  and  stand  aside  until  cool.  When  cold,  add  the 
sugar  and  lemon,  stir  well,  turn  into  a  mould,  and  stand 
away  to  harden.  Serve  with  Cream  or  Vanilla  Sauce. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

FRIED  CREAM 

i  pint  of  milk  i  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch 

Yolks  of  three  eggs       ^  cup  of  sugar 
^  of  *a  nutmeg,  grated     i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler,  moisten  the  flour 
and  corn-starch  in  a  little  cold  milk,  then  add  it  to  the 
boiling  milk.  Stir,  and  boil  five  minutes.  Now  add  the 
sugar,  nutmeg,  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  well  beaten. 
Let  cook  one  minute  ;  take  from  fire  and  add  flavoring. 
Turn  into  a  square  mould,  and  stand  in  a  cold  place  for 
four  or  five  hours.  Then  sprinkle  some  bread  crumbs  on  a 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  419 

baking-board,  turn  the  cream  out  on  them,  and  cut  it  into 
squares.  Dip  them  first  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  crumbs,  and 
fry  in  boiling  fat.  Serve  with  powdered  sugar  sifted  over. 

HAMBURG  CREAM 
(Mrs.  John  W.  Pepper,  Philadelphia) 

5  eggs  2  lemons 

y>  pound  of  sifted  sugar 

Beat  the  yolks  with  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  the  lemons, 
also  the  sugar ;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil. 
Then  add  hastily  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Stir 
all  well  together  ;  take  immediately  off  the  fire  and  put  in 
glasses.  In  making  this,  always  use  a  farina  boiler. 
This  recipe  will  fill  eight  glasses. 

ITALIAN  CREAM 

i  quart  of  milk  4  eggs 

y&  box  of  gelatine        i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
y&  cup  of  sugar          ^  cup  of  cold  water 
Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  cold  water,  and  soak  a  half- 
hour.     Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.     Beat  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  light,  then  stir 
them  into  the  boiling  milk ;  stir  over  the  fire  a  half-minute  ; 
take  from  the  fire,  add  the  gelatine  and  vanilla,  and  stand 
aside  to  cool.     When  slightly  cool,  not  stiff,  add  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  turn  into  a  mould,  and 
stand  away  in  a  cool  place  to  harden. 

This  is  sufficient  to  fill  a  mould  holding  one  and  a  half 
quarts,  and  will  serve  nine  people. 

ORANGE   CREAM 

Y-2,  box  of  gelatine  i  pint  of  cream 

i  cup  of  sugar  i  pint  of  milk 

5  oranges  Yolks  of  five  eggs 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak  for  a 


420  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

half-hour.  Whip  the  cream.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil;  as 
soon  as  it  boils,  dissolve  the  gelatine  in  it.  Beat  the  yolks 
and  sugar  together  until  light,  and  strain  the  milk  and 
gelatine  into  them.  Wash  the  boiler  and  return  the  mix- 
ture to  it ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  two  minutes  and  then 
turn  it  out  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  juice  of  the 
oranges  strained  through  a  sieve.  Now  place  the  basin  in 
a  pan  of  cracked  ice,  and  stir  continually  until  it  just 
begins  to  thicken,  then  add  the  whipped  cream  and  stir 
very  carefully  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Wet  a  fancy  mould 
with  cold  water,  turn  in  the  mixture,  and  stand  on  the  ice 
to  harden.  Serve  plain  or  with  whipped  cream  heaped 
around  it.  This  is  delicious. 

SNOW  CREAM 

Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  until  foamy,  then  add  grad- 
ually four  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  beating  all  the 
while,  then  beat  until  stiff  enough  to  stand  alone ;  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  sherry  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla;  stir 
in  carefully  one  pint  of  cream,  whipped.  Serve  in  small 
glasses. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

VELVET    CREAM 

Make  the  same  as  Charlotte  Russe,  turn  into  a  fancy  mould 
that  has  been  dipped  in  cold  water,  and  stand  in  a  cold 
place  to  harden. 

This  will  serve  twelve  persons. 

TAPIOCA   CREAM 

i  quart  of  milk  *^  cup  of  sugar 

i  cup  of  tapioca  4  eggs 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
Soak  the  tapioca,  in  cold  water  enough  to  cover,  over  night. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  421 

In  the  morning,  put  the  milk  and  tapioca  in  a  farina  boiler 
and  boil  until  the  tapioca  is  clear,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  together  until  light ;  then  beat  the 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  carefully  into  the  yolks  and 
sugar,  and  then  add  them  to  the  tapioca,  and  stir  and  boil 
about  one  minute.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla, 
and  turn  out  in  a  glass  dish  to  cool. 
This  will  serve  six  persons. 


CROQUANTE   OF  PEACHES 

1 8  nice  ripe  peaches 
i  pound  of  sugar 
i  pint  of  small  strawberries 
y?  pint  of  water 
The  recipe  for  Charlotte  Russe 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  until  it  is  brittle  when 
dropped  in  cold  water ;  that  is,  when  it  begins  to  boil  up 
in  large  bubbles,  take  a  tittle  of  it  on  a  spoon  and  drop  it 
into  cold  water;  if  it  snaps  in  breaking,  it  is  sufficiently 
boiled.  Take  it  from  the  fire  immediately.  Rub  a  plain 
two-quart  mould  with  melted  butter  or  oil.  Have  ready 
the  peaches  pared,  cut  into  halves  and  stoned,  the  straw- 
berries stemmed.  Put  a  piece  of  peach  on  a  wooden 
skewer,  dip  it  in  the  syrup,  then  dip  a  berry  in  the  syrup, 
and  place  in  the  centre  of  the  peach  where  the  stone  was 
taken  out,  then  press  it  against  the  side  of  the  mould,  and 
so  continue  until  the  mould  is  lined,  then  stand  away  in  a 
cold  place  to  harden.  When  hard,  fill  with  Charlotte  Russe, 
and  stand  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour  or  two.  When  ready 
to  serve,  put  a  plate  over  the  mould,  turn  it  upside  down, 
wipe  the  outside  of  the  mould  with  a  warm  cloth,  then 
carefully  lift  it  off.  This  dish  is  both  beautiful  and  good. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 


422  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

CROQUANTE  OF  ORANGES 

12  sweet  oranges  i  pound  of  sugar 

YZ  pint  of  water  Charlotte  Russe 

Peel  and  carefully  remove  all  the  white  pith  from  the 
oranges,  then  divide  them  into  their  small  sections  with 
the  fingers,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  skin.  Make  the 
syrup,  dip  the  sections  into  it,  line  the  mould  and  finish 
according  to  the  recipe  given  for  Croquante  of  Peaches. 


CROQUANTE   OF    STRAWBERRIES 

i  quart  of  strawberries 
i  tablespoon  ful  of  gelatine 
Charlotte  Russe 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water  and  let  it  soak  a  half- 
hour,  then  add  to  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water 
and  stir  until  dissolved.  Dip  a  plain  two-quart  mould  in 
cold  water,  then  stand  it  in  a  pan  of  ice-water.  Stem  the 
berries,  and  dip  each  one  in  the  gelatine,  then  press  them 
against  the  inside  of  the  mould ;  in  this  way  they  will 
stick,  allowing  you  to  arrange  them  in  any  fancy  design 
you  may  choose.  A  wreath  around  the  side  of  the  mould 
and  a  rose  in  the  bottom  made  from  the  berries  is  very 
pretty.  Angelica  may  be  used  for  the  leaves  and  stems,  or 
you  may  line  the  mould  perfectly  solid  with  the  berries. 
Now  fill  with  Charlotte  Russe  and  stand  away  to  harden. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

Croquante  of  Raspberries  may  be  made  in  the  same 
.way. 

BAKED    CUSTARD 

Make  the  same  as  Cup  Custard ;  pour  into  a  baking-dish 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  firm  in  the  centre.  Serve 
very  cold. 


PUDDINGS   AND    U  ESSEX  TS  423 

CORN-STARCH    CUSTARD 

i  quart  of  milk  *£  cup  of  sugar 

4  eggs  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

4  tablespoon  fuls  of  corn -starch 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  and  the  sugar  together  until  very  light.  Beat 
the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  then  stir  them  carefully  into  the 
yolks  and  sugar.  Moisten  the  corn-starch  with  a  little 
cold  milk,  then  stir  it  into  the  boiling  milk  ;  stir  and  cook 
until  it  begins  to  thicken,  then  add  the  eggs  and  sugar ; 
stir  and  cook  one  minute  longer,  take  from  the  fire,  add 
the  vanilla  and  turn  into  a  glass  dish.  Serve  icy  cold. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

CUP    CUSTARDS 

i  quart  of  milk         4  eggs 
y2  cup  of  sugar         ^  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 
Beat  the  eggs  all  together  until  light,  then  add  the  sugar, 
beat  again,  add  the  milk  and  nutmeg,  stir  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved.     Pour  into  custard  cups.     Stand  the  cups  in  a 
pan  of  boiling  water  and  then  put  the  pan  in  the  oven. 
Bake  until  the  custards  are  set;  that  is,  firm  in  the  centre. 
When  done,  take  them  out  of  the  water  and  stand  away  to 
cool.     Serve  in  the  cups. 

FRENCH  CUSTARD 

i  quart  of  milk  8  eggs 

^3  cup  of  sugar  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

6  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  sugar 
and  yolks  of  the  eggs  together  until  light,  then  stir  them 
into  the  boiling  milk.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  it  begins  to 
thicken,  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla  and 
stand  aside  to  cool.  As  soon  as  cool,  pour  into  a  glass 


424  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

dish.  Beat  the  whites  until  frothy,  add  gradually  the  fine 
sugar,  and  beat  until  they  will  stand  alone.  Heap  them  on 
a  dinner-plate,  and  stand  in  the  oven  a  moment  to  brown. 
As  soon  as  they  are  brown,  loosen  them  from  the  plate  and 
slide  off  gently  on  top  of  the  custard.  Serve  very  cold, 
with  sponge  cake. 

This  will  serve  ten  persons. 


QUAKING  CUSTARD 

Y^  box  of  gelatine  i^  pints  of  milk 

5  eggs  ^  cup  of  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  ^  cup  of  powdered  sugar 
Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water  and  soak  a  half-hour. 
Put  the  milk  on  to  boil.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and 
the  half-cup  of  sugar  together  until  light,  then  stir  into  the 
boiling  milk;  add  the  gelatine,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  a 
minute  to  thicken.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla, 
pour  in  a  mould,  and  stand  away  to  harden.  When  ready 
to  serve,  beat  the  whites  to  a  foam,  then  add  gradually  the 
powdered  sugar,  beating  all  the  while.  After  all  the  sugar 
is  added,  beat  until  it  will  stand  alone.  Turn  the  pudding 
carefully  from  the  mould,  heap  the  whites  around  it,  and 
serve. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

RICE  CUSTARDS 

i  quart  of  milk  ^  cup  of  sugar 

6  tablespoonfuls  of  rice         4  eggs 

flour  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Moisten  the 
rice  flour  with  a  little  cold  milk.  Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar 
together  until  very  light.  Now  add  the  rice  flour  to  the 
boiling  milk,  stir  and  cook  for  five  minutes;  then  add  the 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  425 

eggs  and  sugar,  and  cook  one  minute  longer.     Take  from 
the  fire,  add  the  vanilla,  turn  into  cups,  and  stand  away  in 
a  cold  place  to  cool.     Serve  cold,  with  Cream  Sauce. 
This  will  fill  eight  cups. 

FARINA  CUSTARDS 
Make  precisely  the  same  as  Rice  Custards. 

CUSTARD  SOUFFLE     (Parloa) 

2  tablespoonfuls  "of  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 

i  cup  of  milk 

4  eggs 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together, 
add  to  the  boiling  milk,  stir  over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes. 
Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  together,  add  them  to  the  milk, 
and  turn  the  mixture  out  to  cool.  When  cold,  beat  the 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  them  to  the  mixture,  turn 
into  a  greased  baking-dish  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  (400° 
Fahr.)  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve  immediately,  with 
Creamy  Sauce. 

TAPIOCA  CUSTARD 

Y?  cup  of  tapioca  4  eggs 

Y<2.  cup  of  sugar  i  tumbler  of  currant  or 

i  pint  of  water  strawberry  jelly 

Wash  the  tapioca  through  several  waters,  add  it  to  the  pint 
of  water  and  soak  two  hours,  then  add  to  it  the  jelly  and 
sugar,  and  cook  slowly  until  the  tapioca  is  clear.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  into  the  tapioca, 
then  turn  into  a  mould,  and  stand  away  to  harden.  Serve 
cold,  with  Vanilla  Sauce  made  from  the  yolks  of  the  eggs. 
This  is  sufficient  for  six  persons. 


426  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

APPLE  DUMPLINGS         No.  i 

1  quart  of  flour  i  large  tablespoon ful  of 

2  heaping  teaspoonfuls  butter  or  lard 

of  baking-powder      i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

YZ  pint  of  milk 

Pare  the  apples  and  take  out  the  cores  with  a  corer.  Put 
the  pot  over  the  fire  with  just  enough  water  to  half  cover 
the  dumplings  ;  or,  if  you  are  going  to  steam  them,  which 
is  much  the  better  way,  have  steamer  over  the  pot,  which 
should  be  half-full  of  boiling  water.  Now  put  the  flour 
into  a  bowl,  and  rub  into  it  the  butter  or  lard,  then  add 
the  salt  and  baking-powder,  mix  well,  and  moisten  with 
the  milk,  using  more  or  less,  as  the  flour  requires  to  make 
a  soft  dough ;  that  is,  a  dough  that  will  roll  out  nicely  with- 
out being  sticky.  Take  the  dough  out  on  a  baking  board, 
roll  it  out  about  a  half-inch  in  thickness ;  now  cut  out  the 
dumplings  or  the  covering  for  the  apples  with  a  large  round 
cutter,  about  the  size  of  a  common  saucer ;  put  one  apple 
in  the  centre  of  each  piece,  fill  the  space  from  which  the 
core  was  taken  with  sugar,  and  a  little  cinnamon  if  you 
like,  and  carefully  work  the  dough  over  the  apple.  If  you 
boil  them,  tie  each  one  in  a  floured  cloth,  or  put  them  into 
netted  dumpling-bags,  plunge  them  immediately  into  the 
boiling  water,  and  boil  thirty  minutes.  If  you  steam,  place 
them  on  a-  dinner-plate  a  little  smaller  than  the  steamer, 
stand  the  plate  in  the  steamer  and  steam  forty  minutes. 
Serve  on  the  plate  on  which  they  were  steamed.  Serve  hot, 
with  Hard  Sauce  or  sweetened  cream. 

APPLE  DUMPLINGS         No.  2 

10  good-sized  potatoes       ^  cup  of  milk 
YZ  teaspoonful  of  salt  i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

Pare  and  boil  the  potatoes;  when  done,  drain  off  every 
drop  of  water,  and  stand  them  on  the  back  part  of  the 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  427 

fire  to  dry,  then  mash  and  beat  them  until  light ;  add  the 
salt,  butter,  and  milk,  and  beat  again ;  add  gradually  suffi- 
cient flour  to  make  a  dough  that  will  roll  out  without  sticking 
to  the  board.  Now  take  the  dough  and  knead  it  lightly, 
roll  out  about  a  half-inch  in  thickness,  and  finish  same  as 
Apple  Dumplings,  No.  i.  These  dumplings  must  be  served 
as  soon  as  done.  They  can  wait,  after  they  are  ready  to 
cook,  for  a  halPhour  or  more,  then  put  them  on  to  cook 
just  forty  minutes  before  you  are  ready  to  serve  them. 

These  dumplings  are  delicious  baked  and  served  with 
Vanilla  Sauce. 


PEACH  DUMPLINGS 

Peach  dumplings  may  be  made  the  same  as  Apple  Dump- 
lings, No.  i,  using  one  dozen  peaches  instead  of  the  apples. 
Pare  the  peaches,  but  do  not  take  out  the  stones. 


RICE  DUMPLINGS 

1  pound  of  rice 

j  dozen  tart  apples 

2  quarts  of  water 
Sugar  and  cinnamon 

Wash  the  rice  through  several  cold  waters,  then  boil  gently 
in  the  water  for  thirty  minutes;  drain  in  a  colander.  Pare 
the  apples  and  take  out  the  cores.  Fill  the  spaces  from 
which  the  cores  were  taken  with  sugar  and  cinnamon.  Then 
cover  the  apples  all  over  with  a  thick  coating  of  the  boiled 
rice.  Tie  each  dumpling  tightly  in  a  dumpling  cloth,  and 
put  them  in  a  pot  of  cold  water.  Bring  the  water  quickly 
to  a  boil,  and  boil  forty  minutes.  When  done,  untie  the 
cloth,  turn  the  dumplings  out  carefully  on  a  large  plate. 
Serve  with  Hard  or  Cream  Sauce. 


428  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

APPLE  SPONGE 

YZ  box  of  gelatine  i  pound  of  sugar 

i  pound  of  apples  Grated  rind  of  one  and 

3  eggs  juice  of  two  lemons 

y,  pint  of  boiling  water 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  until  clear,  take  the  scum  from 
the  surface.  Pare  the  apples,  core  and  slice  them  into  this 
syrup.  Stew  until  tender.  Cover  the  gejatine  with  cold 
water  and  let  it  soak  while  the  apples  are  stewing;  add  the 
gelatine  to  the  apples  when  they  are  done,  then  press  the 
whole  through  a  sieve,  add  the  rind  and  juice  of  the  lemons, 
and  stir  until  cold  and  slightly  thickened.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  into  the  apples  and 
beat  until  cold  and  thick,  then  pour  into  a  mould  to 
harden.  Make  a  Vanilla  Sauce  from  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 
(see  recipe).  Serve  the  sponge  in  a  dessert-dish,  with  the 
sauce  poured  around  it. 

Peach  Sponge  may  be  made  the  same  way,  using  one 
pound  of  peaches  instead  of  a  pound  of  apples. 

BLACKBERRY  SPONGE 

YZ  box  of  gelatine       */£  pint  of  blackberry  juice 

y2  cup  of  sugar  4  eggs 

i  pint  of  boiling  water 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  a  half-cup  of  cold  water  and  soak 
for  a  half-hour ;  then  pour  over  it  the  boiling  water,  add 
the  sugar,  and  stir  until  dissolved;  add  the  blackberry 
juice,  and  strain  into  a  tin  basin ;  put  this  basin  in  a  pan  of 
cracked  ice  or  snow  to  stand  until  cold  and  thick,  stirring 
occasionally.  Then  beat  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  the  well- 
beaten  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  beat  until  smooth;  turn 
into  a  fancy  pudding-mould  to  harden.  Serve  with  Vanilla 
Sauce  poured  around  it. 

The  Dover  egg-beater  is  the  best  for  beating  these  des- 
serts. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  429 

CURRANT  SPONGE 

Make  the  same  as  Blackberry  Sponge,  using  a  half-pint  of 
currant  juice,  a  half-pint  of  sugar,  a  half-pint  of  boiling 
water,  a  half-box  of  gelatine,  and  four  eggs. 

LEMON  SPONGE 

Proceed  in  every  respect  as  for  Blackberry  Sponge,  substi- 
tuting the  juice  of  three  lemons  for  the  blackberry  juice, 
and  adding  two  cups  of  sugar. 

ORANGE  SPONGE 

This  is  made  the  same  as  Blackberry  Sponge,  using  the 
juice  of  five  large  oranges,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  pint  of 
boiling  water,  a  half-box  of  gelatine,  and  four  eggs. 

RASPBERRY  SPONGE 

The  same  as  Blackberry  Sponge,  using  one  pint  of  raspberry 
juice. 

STRAWBERRY  SPONGE 

Make  same  as  Blackberry  Sponge,  using  one  pint  of  straw- 
berry juice,  one  cup  of  sugar,  a  half-box  of  gelatine,  a  half- 
pint  of  boiling  water,  and  four  eggs. 

APPLE  TAPIOCA 

Pick  and  wash  one  cup  of  tapioca,  cover  with  cold  water, 
and  soak  a  half-hour ;  then  put  it  in  a  farina  boiler,  add 
one  quart  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  until  transparent.  Pare 
and  core  enough  apples  to  cover  the  bottom  of  a  baking- 
dish  ;  fill  the  spaces  from  which  the  cores  were  taken  with 
sugar,  pour  the  tapioca  over,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  thirty  minutes.  Serve  cold,  with  sweetened  cream. 


430  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

APPLE    SAGO 

Make  the  same  as  Apple  Tapioca,  using  sago  instead  of 
tapioca. 

CHERRY  TAPIOCA 

i  y<2,  pounds  of  sour  cherries  i  cup  of  tapioca 

Sugar  to  taste 

Wash  the  tapioca  through  several  waters,  then  cover  with 
cold  water,  and  soak  over  night.  In  the  morning,  put  it 
on  the  fire  with  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  simmer  slowly 
until  the  tapioca  is  perfectly  clear.  Stone  the  cherries,  stir 
them  into  the  boiling  tapioca,  sweeten  to  taste.  Take  from 
the  fire,  turn  into  the  dish  in  which  they  are  to  be  served, 
and  stand  away  to  cool.  Serve  very  cold,  with  sugar  and 
cream. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

ORANGE    TAPIOCA 

i  cup  of  tapioca  i  dozen  sour  oranges 

Sugar  to  taste 
Make  and  serve  the  same  as  Cherry  Tapioca. 

PEACH    TAPIOCA 

i  cup  of  tapioca 

i  quart-can  or  a  quarter-peck  of  stewed  peaches 
Sugar  to  taste 
Make  and  serve  the  same  as  Cherry  Tapioca. 

RASPBERRY    TAPIOCA 

i  cup  of  tapioca 
i  quart  of  raspberries 
Sugar  to  taste 
Make  and  serve  the  same  as  Cherry  Tapioca 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  481 

STRAWBERRY  TAPIOCA 

i  cup  of  tapioca 
i  quart  of  strawberries 
Sugar  to  taste 
Make  and  serve  the  same  as  Cherry  Tapioca 

ANGELS'    SNOW 

i  dozen  sweet  oranges 

i  cup  of  sugar 

i  cocoanut 

Pare  and  grate  the  cocoanut.  Peel  and  cut  the  oranges  in 
small  pieces,  taking  out  all  the  seeds.  Put  a  layer  of  the 
oranges  in  the  bottom  of  a  pretty  glass  dish,  sprinkle  with 
sugar,  then  a  layer  of  cocoanut,  then  another  layer  of 
oranges,  sugar,  and  so  on,  until  the  dish  is  full,  having  the 
last  layer  cocoanut.  Let  stand  one  hour,  and  it  is  ready  to 
serve. 

APPLE  DOWDY 

Butter  a  baking-dish  and  line  the  bottom  and  sides  of  it 
with  buttered  slices  of  bread.  Fill  the  dish  with  sliced 
apples,  grate  over  them  a  little  nutmeg.  Mix  a  half-cup 
of  water  and  a  half-cup  of  molasses  together,  and  pour 
over  the  apples  ;  sprinkle  over  this  a  half-cup  of  brown 
sugar,  cover  with  more  buttered  bread.  Cover  the  top  of 
the  baking-dish  with  a  tin  plate,  and*  bake  in  a  moderate 
oveti  for  two  hours.  When  done,  loosen  the  edges  with  a 
knife,  and  turn  out  on  a  dish.  Serve  hot,  with  sugar  and 
cream. 

APPLE   MERINGUE 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish  with  pieces  of  stale 
cake  dipped  in.  milk.  Pare,  core  and  slice  four  tart  apples, 
spread  them  over  the  cake,  sprinkle  with  four  heaping 
tablespoon fuls  of  sugar,  grate  over  a  little  nutmeg,  and 


432     ^          PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  apples  are  tender.  Then 
make  a  meringue  from  the  whites  of  three  eggs  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth, 
heap  them  over  the  top,  and  put  back  in  the  oven  to  brown 
the  meringue.  Serve  cold,  with  sweetened  cream. 

APPLE    SLUMP 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter 
y2  pint  of  milk  or  water 

1  quart  of  flour 

6  large  tart  apples 

2  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of 

baking-powder 

Sift  the  flour,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  rub  into  it 
the  butter;  add  the  baking-powder  and  then  the  milk — 
more  or  less  as  the  flour  requires.  The  dough  must  be  a 
little  soft.  Have  the  apples  pared,  quartered  and  cored ; 
put  them  with  one  pint  of  water  into  a  baking-dish,  roll 
out  the  dough  about  one  inch  in  thickness,  cover  it  over  the 
apples,  cover  the  dish,  and  stew  slowly  in  the  oven  for  thirty 
minutes.  When  done,  dust  thickly  with  powdered  sugar, 
and  serve  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  baked,  with  Hard 
Sauce  in  a  separate  dish. 

APPLE  SNOW 

6  good-sized  apples 

i  cup  of  sugar 

Juice  of  one  lemon 

Whites  of  six  eggs 

Pare,  core  and  steam  the  apples  until  tender,  then  press 
them  through  a  sieve  and  put  aside  to  cool ;  when  cold, 
add  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice.  Beat  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  and  add  the  apples  to  them  by 
large  spoonfuls,  beating  all  the  while.  Serve  immediately, 
in  glasses. 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  433 

BROWN  BETTY 

Pare,  core  and  slice  six  or  seven  tart  apples.  Put  a  layer 
of  stale  bread  crumbs  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish,  then 
a  layer  of  the  apples,  then  another  layer  of  bread  crumbs, 
and  another  layer  of  apples,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used, 
having  the  last  layer  crumbs.  Add  a  half-cup  of  water  to 
a  half-cup  of  molasses,  stir  in  two  tablespoon fuls  of  brown 
sugar ;  pour  it  over  the  crumbs,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  one  hour.  Serve  hot,  with  sweetened  cream  or 
Hard  Sauce. 

FLOATING   ISLAND 

i  quart  of  milk         4  eggs 
y<2,  cup  of  sugar  i  teaspoon ful  of  vanilla 

i  tablespoon  ful  of  corn -starch 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  put  them,  a  few  spoonfuls  at  a 
time,  on  top  of  the  boiling  milk;  let  cook  one  minute,  and 
then  remove  them  with  a  skimmer.  Now  beat  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  corn-starch  together  until  light, 
then  stir  them  into  the  boiling  milk;  stir  until  it  thickens 
(about  one  minute).  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla, 
and  stand  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  pour  into  a  glass 
dish,  heap  on  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  dot  here  and  there 
with  bits  of  currant  jelly,  dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and 
serve  very  cold. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

GOOSEBERRY  FOOL 

i  quart  of  ripe  gooseberries      i  tablespoonful  of  butter 

i  cup  of  sugar  4  eggs 

Top  and  stem  the  gooseberries,  and  stew  them  in  one  pint 
of  water  until  they  are  tender,  then  press  them  through  a 
colander  to  remove  the  skins ;  add  the  butter,  sugar,  and 
yolks  beaten  together  until  light,  and  pour  into  a  glass 


434  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

dish.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  until  foaming,  not  frothy, 
add  gradually  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  beat  until  they  will  stand  alone ;  heap  them  on 
top  of  the  gooseberries,  and  stand  away  until  very  cold. 

ORANGE   FLOAT 

i  quart  of  water         Juice  and  pulp  of  two  lemons 
i  cup  of  sugar  5  sweet  juicy  oranges 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch 

Put  the  water  on  to  boil.  Moisten  the  corn-starch  with  a 
little  cold  water,  then  stir  it  into  the  boiling  water,  and 
cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  constantly.  Take 
from  the  fire,  add  the  sugar,  lemon  juice,  and  pulp.  Cut 
the  oranges  into  small  pieces,  remove  the  seeds,  pour  the 
boiling  corn-starch  over  them,  and  stand  away  to  cool. 
Serve  cold,  with  sugar  and  cream. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

PAIN    PERDU 

Cut  stale  bread  into  pieces  about  two  inches  square,  dip 
them  first  in  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boil- 
ing fat.  Serve  with  Nun's  Butter. 

RICE  MERINGUE 

i  cup  of  rice  6  eggs 

1  pint  of  milk  Juice  of  two  and  the  grated 

2  cups  of  sugar  rind  of  one  lemon 

2  ounces  of  butter 

Boil  the  rice  in  one  quart  of  water  until  tender,  then  drain 
in  a  colander ;  add  it  to  the  milk  ;  add  the  butter,  and  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  and  sugar  beaten  together  until  light,  then 
add  juice  and  rind  of  the  lemon  ;  turn  into  a  baking-dish, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  a  half-hour.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  until  foamy,  and  add  gradually  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar,  beating  all  the  while,  then  beat  until 


PUDDINGS  AND    DESSERTS  435 

stiff  enough  to  stand  alone.  Heap  this  meringue  over  the 
top  of  the  pudding,  and  put  back  in  the  oven  to  brown. 
Serve  cold. 

This  is  sufficient  for  eight  persons. 

RICE    SOUFFLE 

3  ounces  of  rice  flour       5  ounces  of  sugar 

2  ounces  of  butter          ^  pint  of  cream 

6  eggs  i^  teaspoon ful  of  salt 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Put  the  cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  butter, 
sugar,  rice  flour,  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  together  until  light* 
then  stir  them  into  the  boiling  milk,  and  stir  continually 
until  it  thickens.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla  and 
salt.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them 
carefully  into  the  other  mixture,  and  turn  into  a  glass  dish. 
Serve  cold. 

SNOW   BALLS 
i  cup  of  rice  i  pint  of  milk 

i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Wash  the  rice  and  put  it  into  a  farina  boiler  with  the  milk. 
Boil  until  tender,  add  salt,  and  put  into  small  cups  to  cool. 
When  cold,  turn  out  on  a  deep  dish  and  pour  Soft  Custard 
Sauce  around  them. 

TOUT   FAIT 

4  eggs  3  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  flour     2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk 

Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  to  a  cream,  add  the  sugar,  beat 
again ;  add  the  milk  and  the  flour,  beat  until  smooth,  and 
strain.  Add  the  juice,  rind  of  the  lemon,  and  the  whites 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth  ;  turn  into  a  greased  baking-dish, 
dredge  thickly  with  powdered  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  fifteen  minutes. 

This  will  serve  four  persons. 


PUDDING  SAUCES 


BRANDY  SAUCE 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  butter         i  cup  of  powdered  sugar 
Whites  of  two  eggs  i  gill  of  brandy 

i  gill  of  boiling  water 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  gradually  the  sugar,  and 
beat  until  white  and  light ;  then  add  the  whites  one  at  a 
time,  beating  all  the  while.  When  ready  to  serve,  add  the 
brandy  and  boiling  water,  stand  the  bowl  in  a  basin  of  boil- 
ing water  over  the  fire,  stir  until  light  and  creamy,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

CARAMEL   SAUCE 

i  cup  of  granulated  sugar 

i  cup  of  water 

Put  the  sugar  into  an  iron  saucepan,  stir  with  a  wooden 
spoon  over  a  quick  fire  until  the  sugar  melts  and  turns  an 
amber  color,  then  add  the  water,  let  boil  two  minutes,  and 
turn  out  to  cool. 

CREAM    SAUCE 

1  pint  of  thick  sweet  cream    i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  two 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered          tablespoonfuls  of  sherry 

sugar  i  nutmeg,  grated 

Add  the  sugar,  vanilla  or  wine  to  the  cream,  stir  until  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  add  the  nutmeg,  and  stand  in  a  cold 

place  until  wanted. 

(436) 


PUDDING   SAUCES  437 

CREAMY  SAUCE 

YI  cup  of  butter  ^  cup  of  powdered  sugar 

%  cup  of  cream  Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  the  sugar  gradually,  beat- 
ing all  the  while.  When  very  light  and  creamy,  add  the 
cream  a  little  at  a  time.  Now  place  the  bowl  in  a  basm  of 
boiling  water,  and  stir  until  the  sauce  is  smooth  and  creamy, 
no  longer.  It  will  only  take  a  few  minutes.  Add  lemon, 
and  serve. 

SOFT    CUSTARD  SAUCE 

i  pint  of  milk        ^  cup  of  powdered  sugar 
3  eggs  i  teaspoon ful  of  vanilla 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  eggs 
and  sugar  together  until  light  and  creamy,  then  stir  them 
into  the  boiling  milk,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  they  begin 
to  thicken, — no  longer,  or  the  sauce  will  curdle.  Take  from 
the  fire,  add  the  vanilla,  and  turn  out  to  cool. 

FOAMY  SAUCE 

^  cup  of  butter 

i  cup  of  powdered  sugar 

Whites  of  two  eggs 

i  gill  of  boiling  water 

i  gill  of  sherry  or  a  teaspoonful 

of  vanilla 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  add  gradually  the  sugar, 
and  beat  until  white ;  then  add  the  white  of  one  egg  un- 
beaten, beat  again,  then  add  the  remaining  white,  and  beat 
the  whole  until  very,  very  light.  When  ready  to  serve,  add 
the  sherry  or  vanilla  and  boiling  water,  stand  the  bowl  in  a 
basin  of  boiling  water  over  the  fire,  and  stir  until  frothy, — 
no  longer.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  serve  immediately,  or  it 
will  lose  its  lightness. 


438  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

HARD    SAUCE 

^  cup  of  butter 
i  cup  of  powdered  sugar 
i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  a  table- 
spoonful  of  brandy 
Whites  of  two  eggs 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  gradually  the  sugar,  and 
beat  until  very  light ;  add  the  whites,  one  at  a  time,  and 
beat  all  until  very  light  and  frothy,  then  add  gradually  the 
flavoring,  and  beat  again.  Heap  it  on  a  small  dish,  sprinkle 
lightly  with  grated  nutmeg,  and  stand  away  on  the  ice  to 
harden. 

FAIRY  OR  NUN'S  BUTTER 

Make  the  same  as  Hard  Sauce,  adding  a  tablespoonful  of 
sherry  instead  of  the  brandy. 

LEMON  SAUCE 

i  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch      y2  cup  of  sugar 
i  tablespoonful  of  butter  i  egg 

i  pint  of  boiling  water 

Put  the  corn-starch,  egg,  butter,  and  sugar  into  a  bowl  and 
beat  them  well ;  now  pour  over  them  the  boiling  water,  and 
stir  over  a  fire  until  thick  ;  take  from  the  fire,  and  add  the 
juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon.  Serve  in  a  boat. 

MADEIRA   SAUCE 

i  tablespoonful  of  butter       i  teaspoonful  of  caramel 
i  tablespoonful  of  flour        ^£  cup  of  sugar 
i  pint  of  boiling  water  i  gill  of  Madeira 

Put  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  until  slightly  bi own, 
then  add  the  flour ;  mix  until  smooth  ;  add  the  water ; 
stir  continually  until  it  boils.  Add  the  sugar  and  caramel, 
stand  it  over  boiling  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  the 
Madeira,  and  serve. 


--•         PUDDING   SAUCES  439 

MONTROSE  SAUCE 

i  pint  of  cream          %  cup  of  powdered  sugar 

Yolks  of  three  eggs      i  heaping  tablespoonful  of  gelatine 

A  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  two  tablespoon fuls  of  cold  water, 
and  soak  a  half-hour.  Put  the  cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina 
boiler.  Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  together  until  light,  then 
stir  into  the  boiling  cream;  stir  until  it  thickens  (about  one 
minute),  add  the  gelatine,  stir  until  dissolved.  Take  from 
the  fire,  add  the  vanilla  and  (if  you  use  it)  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  brandy  and  four  of  sherry.  Mix  well,  and  stand 
away  to  cool. 

ORANGE  SAUCE 

Orange  sauce  may  be  made  precisely  the  same  as  Lemon 
Sauce,  using  the  rind  of  one  and  the  juice  of  two  oranges 
instead  of  the  lemon. 


PEACH  SAUCE 

4  large,  mellow  peaches 
YZ  cup  of  sugar 
^  cup  of  water 

i  even  tablespoonful  of  corn -starch 

i  cup  of  cream 

Whites  of  two  eggs 

Pare  and  stone  the  peaches ;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
the  water  and  sugar,  stew  until  tender,  then  press  them 
through  a  colander.  Put  the  cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina 
boiler ;  moisten  the  corn-starch  in  a  little  cold  water,  and 
stir  into  the  boiling  cream ;  stir  until  it  thickens ;  then 
beat  into  it  the  peaches  and  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten 
to  a  stiff  froth.  Stand  in  a  cold  place  until  very  cold. 

Apricot  Sauce  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner,  using 
canned  apricots. 


440  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

OUR  COOKING-SCHOOL  SAUCE 

Yolks  of  three  eggs  i  gill  of  boiling  water 

^  pound  of  sugar  ^  pint  of  wine 

6  ounces  of  butter  Nutmeg  to  taste 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  sugar ;  beat  again, 
add  the  yolks,  and  beat  until  perfectly  light  and  frothy,  then 
add  the  wine,  water,  and  nutmeg.  Stand  the  bowl  in  a 
pan  of  boiling  water,  over  the  fire,  and  stir  continually  for 
five  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

VANILLA   SAUCE 

i  pint  of  milk  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 

Yolks  of  four  eggs       i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.     Beat  the  yolks 
and  the  sugar  together  until  light,  then  add  them  to  the 
boiling  milk  ;  stir  over  the  fire  for  two  minutes.     Take  off, 
add  the  vanilla,  and  put  away  to  cool. 

VINEGAR  SAUCE 

Proceed  the  same  as  for  Madeira  Sauce,  using  a  half-gill  of 
vinegar  instead  of  a  gill  of  Madeira. 

WINE  SAUCE 

Make  the  same  as  Foamy  Sauce,  using  a  gill  of  any  wine 
you  may  like  the  flavor  of  best. 


ADDITIONAL    RECIPES  441 


442  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


ADDITIONAL   RECIPES  443 


44-4  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


ICE  CREAMS 


PHILADELPHIA    ICE    CREAMS 

To  make  good  Philadelphia  ice  cream,  use  only  the  best 
materials.  Avoid  gelatine,  arrowroot,  or  any  other  thick- 
ening substance.  Good,  pure  cream,  ripe  fruit,  or  the  best 
canned  in  winter,  and  granulated  sugar,  make  a  perfect  ice 
cream.  Next,  get  a  good  freezer,  one  working  with  a  crank, 
and  double  revolving  dasher,  making  a  triple  motion. 

Fruit  and  fruit  flavorings  should  be  added  to  the  cream 
after  the  latter  is  frozen.  The  best  ice  cream  is  made  by 
first  scalding  the  cream  and  dissolving  the  sugar  in  it  while 
hot.  When  raw  cream  is  frozen,  the  flavoring  is  not  so 
prominent,  and  the  cream  has  a  frozen,  snowy  taste,  and  is 
never  perfectly  smooth  and  velvety.  Cheaper  ice  creams 
are  usually  made  in  this  way,  as  they  swell  to  double  their 
original  bulk. 

Before  turning  the  mixture  into  the  freezing-can,  see 
that  the  dasher  is  right  side  up,  and  the  can  properly  ad- 
justed ;  then  pour  in  the  mixture,  put  on  the  cover,  fasten 
the  crank,  and  give  it  a  turn  to  see  that  all  is  right. 
Pound  the  ice  fine  in  a  coarse  bag,  and  get  the  salt,  which 
should  be  coarse  or  rock.  A  four-quart  freezer  will  require 
ten  pounds  of  ice  and  two  quarts  of  salt.  Now  put  in  a 

layer  of  ice  about  three  inches  deep,  then  a  layer  of  salt 

(445) 


446  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

one  inch  deep,  and  continue  this  to  the  top  of  the  can. 
Now  turn  the  crank  slowly  and  steadily  until  it  goes  pretty 
hard.  If  properly  packed,  it  will  take  twenty  to  twenty- 
five  minutes  to  freeze.  It  is  not  well  to  freeze  too  quickly. 
Water  ices  require  a  longer  time  than  ice  creams.  When 
frozen,  remove  the  crank,  wipe  the  lid  of  the  can,  and 
take  it  off,  being  careful  not  to  allow  any  salt  to  fall  into 
the  can  ;  remove  the  dasher,  and  scrape  it  off;  take  a  large, 
wooden  spatula  or  mush  stick,  and  scrape  the  cream  from 
the  sides  of  the  can,  and  beat  and  work  steadily  for  ten 
minutes ;  this  makes  the  cream  smooth.  Now  put  the  lid 
on  the  can,  put  a  cork  in  the  hole  where  the  dasher  was 
taken  out,  drain  off  the  water  from  the  tub,  repack  with 
salt  and  ice,  cover  the  tub  with  a  piece  of  carpet,  and  stand 
away  in  a  cold  place  for  one  or  two  hours  to  ripen.  When 
the  cream  is  fresh,  in  tasting,  you  taste  each  ingredient 
separately,  but  after  standing  one  or  two  hours  they  blend 
and  form  a  pleasant  whole.  This  is  called  ripening.  When 
ready  to  serve,  dip  the  can  quickly  in  cold  water  and  wipe 
it,  then  turn  the  cream  out  on  a  dish.  If  you  wish  to  serve 
the  cream  in  forms,  after  you  are  done  workirg  it  with  a 
wooden  spatula,  fill  the  mould  or  form  with  the  cream, 
press  it  down  with  a  spoon,  being  careful  to  fill  every  part 
of  the  mould.  Bind  the  edge  of  the  mould  with  a  piece 
of  letter  paper,  put  on  the  lid  and  press  it  down.  Dip  a 
strip  of  muslin  in  melted  butter  and  cover  the  joint.  Pack 
the  mould  in  salt  and  ice  for  one  or  two  hours  until  wanted. 
If  you  have  no  freezer,  an  impromptu  one  may  be  made  by 
using  a  tin  pail  for  the  can  and  a  bucket  or  cask  for  the 
tub.  In  this  case  it  will  have  to  be  stirred  occasionally, 
while  freezing,  with  a  wooden  spoon  or  flat  stick,  replacing 
the  lid  of  the  kettle  after  each  stirring,  and  give  the  pail  a 
rotary  motion  in  the  ice. 

To  freeze  puddings,  follow  the  same  directions. 


ICE    CREAMS  447 

BURNT  ALMOND  ICE  CREAM 
i  quart  of  cream  4  ounces  of  shelled  almonds 

y<i  pound  of  sugar  i  teaspoonful  of  caramel 

i  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  4  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry 
Blanch,  and  roast  the  almonds  until  a  golden  brown,  then 
pound  them  in  a  mortar  to  a  smooth  paste.  Put  one- 
half  the  cream  and  the  sugar  on  to  boil,  stir  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved,  then  add  the  remaining  pint  of  cream  and  the 
almonds ;  stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  cara- 
mel, vanilla  and  sherry,  and  freeze.  When  frozen,  remove 
the  dasher,  repack  the  tub,  cover  with  an  old  piece  of  carpet, 
and  stand  away  two  hours  to  ripen.  This  will  serve  six 
persons. 

APRICOT    ICE  CREAM 
i  quart  of  cream  ^  pound  of  sugar 

i  quart  of  apricots  or  one  pint-can 

Put  half  the  cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler ;  when  hot, 
add  the  sugar  and  stir  until  dissolved.  Take  from  the  fire, 
add  the  remaining  half  of  the  cream;  and,  when  cold,  freeze. 
Pare  and  mash  the  apricots,  and  stir  them  quickly  into  the 
frozen  cream.  Turn  the  crank  rapidly  for  five  minutes, 
then  remove  the  dasher,  repack  the  tub,  cover,  and  stand 
away  two  hours  to  ripen. 

This  will  serve  six  persons. 

BANANA    ICE   CREAM 

6  large  red  or  eight  lady  fingers  i  quart  of  cream 

YI  pound  of  sugar 

Pare  and  mash  the  bananas.  Put  one  pint  of  the  cream  on 
to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler ;  when  hot,  add  the  sugar,  stir 
until  dissolved,  and  stand  aside  to  cool.  Beat  and  stir  the 
bananas  to  a  smooth  paste,  add  them  to  the  cream  and 
sugar ;  then  add  the  remaining  pint  of  cream,  and  turn  into 
the  freezer  and  freeze. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 


448  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  ftOOK 

BISQUE  ICE  CREAM 

1  quart  of  good  cream         ^  pound  of  sugar 
i^  pound  of  macaroons  4  kisses 

2  lady  fingers  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

i  teaspoonful  of  caramel. 

Pound  the  macaroons,  kisses,  and  lady  fingers  (which 
should  be  stale)  through  a  colander.  Put  one  pint  of 
cream  on  to  boil,  in  a  farina  boiler,  add  to  it  the  sugar ; 
stir  until  boiling  hot.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  remain- 
der of  the  cream;  and,  when  cold,  turn  into  the  freezer  and 
freeze.  When  frozen,  add  the  vanilla,  caramel,  and  the 
pounded  cakes,  and  (if  you  use  it)  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
sherry ;  beat  the  whole  until  perfectly  smooth.  Drain  the 
water  from  the  tub,  add  more  salt  and  ice,  remove  the 
dasher,  cover  the  freezer,  and  let  stand  three  or  four  hours 
to  ripen. 

BROWN  BREAD  ICE  CREAM 

3  slices  of  Boston  brown  bread 

i  quart  of  cream 
YZ  pound  of  sugar 

Toast  and  dry  the  bread  in  the  oven,  then  pound  it  and 
sift  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  half  the  cream  on  to  boil, 
add  to  it  the  sugar,  stir  until  dissolved;  add  the  remaining 
pint  of  cream,  and  stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  turn 
into  the  freezer  and  freeze.  When  frozen,  beat  into  it  the 
brown  bread,  take  out  the  dasher,  re-pack  the  tub,  cover, 
and  stand  away  to  ripen. 

Biscuit  Ice  Cream  is  made  in  precisely  the  same  man- 
ner, using  six  ounces  of  wine  biscuit,  instead  of  the  brown 
bread. 

CARAMEL    ICE    CREAM 

Put  four  ounces  of  granulated  sugar  in  an  iron  frying-pan, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  sugar  melts,  turns  brown, 
boils,  and  smokes.  Have  ready  one  pint  of  boiling  milk, 


ICE    CREAMS  449 

• 
turn  the  burnt  sugar  into  this,  stir  over  the  fire  one  minute, 

and  stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  a  half-pound  of 
sugar,  one  quart  of  cream,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
vanilla-sugar  or  the  same  of  the  extract;  mix  well,  and 
freeze.  When  frozen,  remove  the  dasher,  stir  into  the 
cream  one  pint  of  whipped  cream,  re-pack,  cover,  and 
stand  for  two  hours  to  ripen. 

This  will  serve  twelve  persons. 

COFFEE    ICE  CREAM 

i  quart  of  cream 
YZ  pound  of  pulverized  sugar 

4  ounces  of  Mocha  or  three  ounces  of  Java 
Have  the  coffee  ground  coarsely ;  put  it  in  a  farina  boiler 
with  one  pint  of  the  cream  and  steep  for  ten  minutes,  then 
strain  it  through  a  fine  muslin,  pressing  it  hard  to  get  all 
the  strength.  Add  the  sugar,  stir  until  it  is  dissolved,  add 
the  remaining  pint  of  cream,  cool,  and  freeze.  Remove 
the  dasher,  re-pack,  cover,  and  stand  away  for  two  hours 
to  ripen. 

This  will  serve  six  persons. 

CHOCOLATE  ICE  CREAM 

i  quart  of  cream 
4  ounces  of  sweet  chocolate 
i^  teaspoon ful  of  powdered  cinnamon 
i  heaping  tablespoonful  of  vanilla-sugar  or 

one  tablespoonful  of  the  extract 
^  pound  of  sugar 

Put  one-half  the  cream,  the  chocolate,  sugar,  cinnamon, 
and  vanilla-sugar  on  to  boil ;  stir  and  beat  until  smooth ; 
strain,  while  hot,  through  a  fine  muslin,  add  the  remaining 
half  of  the  cream,  cool,  and  freeze.  Re-pack,  etc.,  the 
same  as  in  preceding  recipes. 
This  will  serve  six  persons. 


450  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

*       LEMON  ICE  CREAM 

i  quart  of  cream  9  ounces  of  sugar 

The  grated  rind  of  three    Juice  of  two  lemons 
lemons  Juice  of  one  orange 

Mix  the  sugar,  juice  and  rind  of  the  lemons,  and  orange 
juice  together,  and  stand  in  a  cold  place  one  hour.  Put 
the  cream  into  a  farina  boiler  ;  and,  when  scalding  hot, 
stand  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  partly  freeze,  then  add 
the  sugar  and  lemon  juice,  which  by  this  time  should  be 
thoroughly  dissolved,  turn  the  crank  rapidly  for  five  min- 
utes, and  finish  the  same  as  preceding  recipes. 
This  will  serve  six  people. 

ORANGE  ICE  CREAM 

i  quart  of  cream  ^  pound  of  sugar 

Juice  of  six  oranges  Rind  of  one  orange 

Put  one-half  the  cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler,  add 
the  sugar,  and  stir  until  it  is  dissolved.  Take  from  the 
fire ;  and,  when  cool,  add  the  juice  and  rind  of  the  oranges, 
and  the  remaining  half  of  the  cream.  Turn  into  the 
freezer,  and  freeze.  Finish  the  same  as  preceding  recipes. 

PEACH    ICE  CREAM 

Make  precisely  the  same  as  Apricot,  using  large,  mellow 
peaches  in  the  place  of  the  apricots. 

PINEAPPLE    ICE    CREAM 

T  quart  of  cream  i  large,  ripe  pineapple  or 

i  pound  of  sugar  one  pint-can 

Juice  of  one  lemon 

Put   one  pint  of  cream  in  a  farina  boiler  with   half  the* 
sugar,  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  take  from  the  fire, 
and  stand  aside  to  cool.     Pare  the  pineapple,  take  out  the 
eyes,  cut  open  and  take  out  the  core ;  then  grate  the  flesh, 


\ 


ICE    CREAMS  451 

mix  it  with  the  rest  of  the  sugar,  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved. Add  the  remaining  pint  of  cream  to  the  sweetened 
cream,  and  freeze.  Add  the  lemon  juice  to  the  pineapple 
and  stir  into  *he  frozen  cream,  beat  thoroughly,  and  finish 
as  in  preceding  recipes. 

If  canned  pineapple  is  used,  add  the  lemon  juice  to  it, 
and  simply  stir  the  whole  into  the  cream  when  cold,  and 
freeze. 

This  will  serve  eight  people. 

PISTACHIO  ICE    CREAM 

i  quart  of  cream  i  quart  spinach 

l/<2,  pound  of  sugar  i  heaping   tablespoon ful  of 

i  teaspoonful  of  the  extract  vanilla-sugar  or  a   tea- 

of  almonds  spoonful  of  the  extract 

YZ  pound  of  shelled  pistachio  nuts 

Wash  the  spinach,  throw  it  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
boil  rapidly  three  minutes  and  drain  in  a  colander ;  pound 
until  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Squeeze  the  juice  out  through  a 
fine  muslin.  Blanch  and  pound  the  nuts.  Put  half  the 
rream  and  the  sugar  in  a  farina  boiler  to  boil,  stir  until  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  and  stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold, 
add  the  nuts,  the  flavoring,  and  the  remaining  cream,  mix, 
and  add  sufficient  spinach  juice  to  color  it  a  light  green. 
Turn  into  the  freezer,  and  freeze.  Finish  as  in  preceding 
recipes.  If  no  spinach  is  at  hand,  clover  or  lawn  grass 
may  be  used. 

This  will  serve  six  persons. 

RASPBERRY    ICE  CREAM 

i  quart  of  cream  i  pound  of  sugar  . 

i  quart  of  raspberries     .       Juice  of  one  lemon 
Put  half  the  sugar  and  half  the  cream  on  to  boil  in  a 
farina  boiler ;  when  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  stand  aside  to 
cool.     Add  the  remaining  half  of  the  sugar  and  the  lemor. 


452  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

juice  to  the  berries,  mash  and  stand  aside  one  hour,  then 
strain  through  a  fine  muslin.  Add  the  remaining  half  of 
the  cream  to  the  sweetened  cream,  and  freeze.  When 
frozen,  stir  in  the  fruit  juice,  beat  thoroughly,  and  finish  as 
in  preceding  recipes. 

If  canned  fruit  is  used,  less  sugar  will  be  required. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

STRAWBERRY  ICE    CREAM 

Make  precisely  the  same  as  Raspberry  Ice  Cream,  omitting 
the  lemon  juice,  and  using  one  and  a  half  quarts  of  berries. 

VANILLA  ICE  CREAM 

i  quart  of  cream  y<,  pound  of  sugar 

i  vanilla  bean  or  two  tablespoon fuls  of  the  extract 
Put  the  sugar,  half  the  cream,  and  the  bean  split  in  halves 
on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler ;  stir  constantly  for  ten  min- 
utes.    Take  from  the  fire,  take  out  the  bean,  and  with  a 
blunt  knife  scrape  out  the  seeds  and  the  soft  part  from  the 
inside  of  the  bean,  being  careful  not  to  waste  one  drop. 
Mix  the  seeds  thoroughly  with  the  cream,  and  stand  away 
to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  remaining  cream,  and  freeze. 
Finish  as  in  preceding  recipe. 
This  will  serve  six  people. 

NEAPOLITAN  ICE  CREAMS 

Neapolitan  ice  creams  are  made  the  same  as  Philadelphia 
ice  creams  excepting  the  use  of  eggs  in  their  composition. 

CARAMEL 

i  quart  of  cream  6  eggs 

YZ  pound  of  sugar  3  tablespoonfuls  of  caramel 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  until  creamy,  then  add  the  sugar, 
and  beat  again  until  very  light.  Whisk  the  whites  to  a 


ICE    CREAMS  453 

stiff  froth,  stir  them  into  the  yolks  and  sugar.  Put  the 
cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler;  when  boiling,  stir  in 
the  eggs  and  sugar,  and  stir  and  cook  until  the  the  mixture 
begins  to  thicken.  Take  from  the  fire,  strain  through  a 
fine  sieve,  and  let  stand  till  cold,  then  add  the  vanilla,  pour 
into  the  freezer,  and  freeze.  Finish  the  same  as  Philadel- 
phia ice  creams. 

This  will  serve  ten  persons. 

CHOCOLATE 

i  quart  of  cream  6  eggs 

Y*  pound  of  sugar  A  small  piece  of  stick  cin- 

i  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  namon 

4  ounces  of  sweet  chocolate 

Put  the  cream  and  cinnamon  on  to  steep  in  a  farina  boiler. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  very 
light.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  then 
add  them  to  the  yolks  and  sugar;  stir  this  into  the  cream, 
and  stir  and  cook  until  it  begins  to  thicken.  Take  from 
the  fire,  strain,  add  the  chocolate  grated,  and  strain  again. 
Stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  freeze  and  finish  as  in 
preceding  recipes. 

This  is  very  nice  with  whipped  cream  served  around  it. 
Sufficient  for  ten  persons. 

VANILLA 

i  quart  of  cream          i  vanilla  bean  or  two  table- 
6  eggs  spoonfuls  of  extract 

Y^  pound  of  sugar 

Put  the  cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Split  the  bean, 
scrape  out  all  the  seeds  and  pulp,  and  mix  it  with  the  sugar. 
Put  the  outside  of  the  bean  into  the  cream  to  steep.  Beat 
the  yolks  and  sugar  together  until  light,  then  whisk  the 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  into  the  eggs  and  sugar, 
then  stir  them  into  the  boiling  cream.  Stir  over  the  fire 


454  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

until  it  begins  to  thicken  or  coats  a  knife-blade  when  dipped 
in  it.  Take  from  the  fire,  strain,  and  stand  away  to  cool. 
When  cold,  turn  into  the  freezer,  pack,  and  stir  occasionally 
for  ten  minutes,  until  the  mixture  is  icy  cold,  then  beat 
rapidly  and  steadily  until  frozen.  Finish  as  in  preceding 
recipes. 

This  will  serve  ten  persons. 

All  the  fruit  creams  given  in  preceding  recipes  may  be 
made  in  Neapolitan  creams,  allowing  six  eggs  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every  quart  of  cream. 

TUTTI   FRUTTI         No.    i 

i  quart  of  orange  water-ice 
Y^,  pound  of  candied  cherries 
YZ  pound  of  candied  apricots 
*j£  pound  of  candied  pineapples 

Chop  the  fruit  very  fine ;  and,  when  the  water-ice  is  frozen 
hard  enough  to  remove  the  dasher,  stir  in  the  fruit,  and  beat 
thoroughly.     Cover  and  stand  away  to  ripen  for  two  hours. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

TUTTI   FRUTTI         No.  2 

Add  one  pound  of  mixed  French  candied  fruit,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sherry,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  brandy  to 
quart  of  Neapolitan  cream. 

FROZEN  CUSTARD 

i  quart  of  cream  ^  pound  of  sugar 

Yelks  of  six  eggs  i  tablespoonful  of  vanilla 

Put  the  cream  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  yolks 
and  sugar  together  until  light,  and  stir  into  the  boiling 
cream ;  stir  continually  until  it  thickens ;  take  from  the 
fire,  add  the  vanilla,  and  stand  aside  to  cool.  When  cold, 
freeze. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 


ICE    CREAMS  455 

ALASKA  BAKE 

Cover  thickly  a  two-quart  brick  mould  of  ice  cream  with  a 
meringue  made  from  the  whites  of  six  eggs  and  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Stand  the  dish  on  a  board, 
and  place  it  in  a  very  quick  oven  to  brown.  The  meringue 
acts  as  a  non-conductor,  and  prevents  the  heat  from  melt- 
ing the  ice-cream.  It  may  also  be  browned  with  a  sala- 
mander or  a  heated  fire-shovel. 

A  dainty  dish  for  one's  guests. 

BISCUITS   GLACES        No.  i 
i  quart  of  cream  i  teaspoon ful  of  vanilla 

Yolks  of  six  eggs          ^  teaspoon  ful  of  salt 
yz  pound  of  sugar  i  gill  of  maraschino 

Put  half  the  cream  on  to  boil.  Beat  the  sugar  and  yolks 
together  until  very,  very  light,  then  stir  them  into  the  boil- 
ing cream,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  begins  to  thicken. 
Take  from  the  fire,  and  put  aside  to  cool.  When  cold, 
add  the  vanilla  and  maraschino,  and  freeze  in  the  usual 
manner.  Whip  the  remaining  pint  of  cream  to  a  stiff 
froth,  and  stir  into  the  frozen  mixture.  Fill  individual 
moulds  or  paper  cases  with  the  biscuit  (the  name  now  given 
to  this  mixture),  pack  in  salt  and  ice,  and  freeze  two  hours. 

BISCUITS    GLACES         No.  2 

24  pound  of  sugar          i  tablespoonful  of  vanilla 
i  pint  of  cream  Yolks  of  six  eggs 

i  pint  of  water  i  gill  of  sherry 

2  tablespoon  fuls  of  brandy 

Put  the  sugar  and  water  on  to  boil,  and  boil  to  a  syrup ; 
that  is,  when  you  dip  a  spoon  into  the  syrup,  and  then  hold 
it  in  the  air,  the  drops,  as  they  fall  from  the  side  of  the 
spoon,  spin  threads.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  to  a  cream, 
add  them  to  the  boiling  syrup,  and  beat  with  a  whisk  over 
the  fire  until  it  forms  a  custard  that  will  thickly  coat  a  knife, 
then  strain  through  a  sieve  into  a  large  bowl,  and  whisk 


456  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

again  until  stiff  and  cold,  then  add  the  flavoring.  Whip 
the  cream,  and  stir  it  carefully  into  this  mixture ;  fill  paper 
cases  or  individual  moulds.  Pack  the  moulds  in  salt  and 
ice,  and  freeze  two  hours.  If  paper  cases,  stand  them  in 
the  bottom  of  the  freezer,  put  sheets  of  paper  between  each 
layer,  pack  the  freezer  with  salt  and  ice,  and  stand  away 
for  three  hours. 

BOMBE  GLACE 

Pack  a  bombe  glace  mould  in  salt  and  ice,  remove  the  lid, 
and  line  the  mould  about  one  inch  thick  with  either  Vanilla 
Ice  Cream  or  Strawberry  Water-ice,  fill  the  centre  with 
Biscuit  Glace"  Mixture,  No.  2,  which  must  be  icy  cold,  put 
on  the  lid,  cover  with  salt  and  ice,  and  stand  away  to  freeze 
three  or  four  hours. 

ICED  CAKE 

Make  a  plain  cup  cake,  and  bake  it  in  a  deep,  square  mould. 
The  cake  should  be  at  least  seven  inches  thick  when  done. 
Make  a  Frozen  Custard  (see  recipe).  When  ready  to  serve, 
cut  off  the  top  of  the  cake,  and  take  out  the  centre,  leaving 
a  bottom  and  wall  about  one  inch  thick.  Fill  this  space 
with  the  Frozen  Custard  ;  now  put  the  top  back  ;  if  it  is 
high  in  the  centre,  cut  the  elevation  off,  and  take  the 
bottom  of  the  cake  for  the  top.  Serve  with  cold  Brandy 
Sauce  poured  around  it. 

CAFE  PARFAIT 

i  quart  of  thick  cream         i  gill  of  black  coffee 

^  cup  of  powdered  sugar 

Add  the  coffee  and  sugar  to  the  cream,  then  whip  the  whole 
to  a  froth  ;  as  fast  as  the  froth  comes  to  the  surface,  skim 
it  off  and  place  in  a  colander  to  drain.  That  which  drains 
off  may  be  turned  back  and  whipped  over.  When  you 
have  it  all  whipped,  turn  it  carefully  into  an  ice-cream 
mould,  press  the  lid  down  tightly,  bind  the  joint  with  a 


ICE    CREAMS  457 

strip  of  buttered  muslin,  pack  in  salt  and  ice,  and  freeze 
three  hours. 

This  is  as  simple  as  it  sounds,  and  always  turns  out 
well. 

The  above  will  serve  eight  persons. 

STRAWBERRY  PARFAIT 

i  quart  of  crearn         i  pint  of  canned  strawberries  or  a 
Sugar  to  taste  half-pint  of  strawberry  juice 

Whip  the  cream  to  a  froth,  as  directed  in  Cafe  Parfait,  then 
add  the  strawberry  juice  and  sugar,  mix  carefully,  and  finish 
same  as  Cafe  Parfait.  If  canned  strawberries  are  used, 
they  must  be  pressed  through  a  colander. 

Parfait  may  be  made  from  any  flavoring  or  fruit  de- 
sired, the  parfait  taking  the  name  of  the  flavoring  or  fruit 
used,  as  Chocolate  Parfait,  Vanilla  Parfait,  etc. 

ORANGE    SOUFFLE      (FROZEN) 
i  quart  of  cream  i  pint  of  orange  juice 

Yolks  of  six  eggs        yz  box  of  gelatine 

i  pound  of  sugar 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  a  half-cup  of  cold  water,  and  soak 
one  hour ;  then  add  a  half-cup  of  boiling  water,  and  stir 
until  dissolved.  Mix  the  orange  juice  and  sugar  together 
until  they  form  a  syrup.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  to  a 
cream.  Whip  the  cream.  Now  mix  the  syrup  and  yolks 
together  in  a  tin  basin,  stand  the  basin  in  a  pan  of  ice- 
water,  strain  the  gelatine  into  it,  and  stir  carefully  until  it 
begins  to  thicken,  then  stir  in  lightly  and  hastily  the 
whipped  cream,  turn  into  an  ice-cream  mould,  pack  in  salt 
and  ice,  and  freeze  two  hours. 

This  should  not  be  frozen  as  hard  as  ice  cream. 
Serve  with  Montrose  Sauce  poured  around  it. 
This  will  serve  ten  people.     By  changing  the  flavoring 
and  adding  sugar  acordingly,  endless  varieties  of  souffles 
may  be  made  from  this  recipe. 


WATER-ICES  AND  SHERBETS 


In  all  recipes  where  the  sugar  and  water  are  boiled,  the 
time  must  be  noted  exactly,  the  scum  removed  from  the 
syrup,  and  the  syrup  strained  through  a  fine  cloth  while  hot, 
and  then  cooled  before  adding  the  fruit  juice,  or  the  true 
flavor^  will  be  lost.  The  freezer  must  be  packed  according 
to  directions  given  for  freezing  ice  cream.  Turn  the  crank 
very  slowly  for  a  few  minutes,  then  rest  for  about  five  min- 
utes, turn  slowly  again  and  again  rest  and  continue  this 
until  the  water-ice  is  frozen  pretty  hard.  A  much  longer 
time  is  required  for  freezing  water-ice  than  ice  cream. 
When  you  can  turn  no  longer,  take  out  the  dasher,  scrape 
down  the  sides  of  the  can,  and  give  the  water-ice  a 
thorough  beating  with  a  paddle.  Put  a  cork  in  the  lid  of 
the  can,  draw  the  water  from  the  tub,  re-pack  it,  cover 
with  an  old  piece  of  carpet,  and  stand  away  two  or  three 
hours  to  ripen,  that  is,  to  become  mellow  and  smooth. 

Fruit  jelly  may  be  used  in  the  place  of  fresh  fruit, 
allowing  one  pint  of  jelly  and  a  half-pound  of  sugar  to 
every  quart  of  water. 

If  you  wish  a  sherbet  instead  of  a  water-ice,  proceed 
exactly  the  same  until  you  put  it  in  the  freezer,  then  turn 
the  dasher  rapidly  and  steadily  until  the  mixture  is  frozen 

pretty  hard.      Then  remove  the  dasher,  beat  the  white  of 

(458) 


WATER-ICES  AND   SHERBETS  459 

one  egg  to  a  froth,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  beat  again  until  it  will  stand  alone.  Stir  this 
into  the  sherbet,  beat  well,  cover,  and  stand  away  to  ripen. 

TO  MOULD 

When  the  sherbet  or  ice  is  to  be  served  in  a  form,  wet  the 
mould  with  cold  water,  fill  it  with  the  frozen  mixture,  pack 
down  well  into  all  the  designs,  put  a  piece  of  white  letter 
paper  over  the  open  end,  put  on  the  lid  and  press  it  down 
tightly,  then  pack  in  salt  and  ice.  When  ready  to  serve, 
wash  in  cold  water,  remove  the  lid,  and  turn  the  sherbet 
out  on  a  plate.  If  it  should  stick,  wait  a  moment,  and 
perhaps  the  heat  of  the  room  will  loosen  it ;  if  not,  wash 
again  with  water.  Do  not  dip  the  mould  in  hot  water,  for, 
no  matter  how  quickly  it  is  done,  it  spoils  the  shape  of  the 
form. 

CHERRY  WATER-ICE 

i  y?.  quarts  of  pie  or  i  pound  of  sugar 

morello  cherries  i  pint  of  water 

Stone  the  cherries,  and  mash  them.  Crack  one  dozen 
stones,  take  out  the  kernels,  bruise  them  and  work  to  a 
paste,  then  add  them  to  the  cherries,  let  them  stand  for  an 
hour  and  strain  through  a  bag  under  pressure.  Boil  the 
sugar  and  water  together  for  five  minutes,  then  stand  aside 
to  cool.  When  cold,  mix  with  the  cherry  juice,  and  freeze. 
(See  rule  for  freezing.) 

This  will  serve  six  persons. 

CURRANT  WATER-ICE 

Make  the  same  as  Cherry  Water-Ice,  using  one  pint  of  red 
currant  juice,  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  one  pint  of  boiling 
water. 


460  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

GRAPE  WATER-ICE 

i  quart  of  water  i  pint  of  grape  juice 

i  pound  of  sugar 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  five  minutes.      Pulp 
the  grapes  and  add  the  pulps  and  skins  to  the  syrup,  then 
press  through  a  sieve,  being  careful  not  to  mash  the  seeds. 
When  cold,  turn  into  the  freezer,  and  freeze. 
This  will  serve  ten  persons. 

GINGER  WATER-ICE 

6  ounces  of  preserved  ginger 
i  quart  of  Lemon  Water-Ice 

Pound  four  ounces  of  ginger  to  a  paste.  Cut  the  remain- 
ing two  ounces  into  very  thin  slices,  and  stir  into  the 
water-ice;  beat  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Cover,  and  stand 
away  to  ripen. 

LEMON  WATER-ICE 

4  nice  juicy  lemons  i  orange 

.    i  quart  of  water  i^  pounds  of  sugar 

Put  the  sugar  and  water  on  to  boil;  chip  the  yellow  rind 
from  three  lemons  and  the  orange,  add  to  the  syrup,  boil 
five  minutes,  and  stand  away  to  cool.  Peel  the  oranges 
and  lemons,  cut  them  in  halves,  take  out  the  seeds,  and 
squeeze  out  all  the  juice;  mix  this  with  the  syrup,  strain 
through  a  cloth,  turn  into  the  freezer,  and  freeze. 
This  will  serve  six  persons. 

ORANGE    WATER-ICE 

12  large  oranges        ,       i  pint  of  sugar 

i  quart  of  water 

Make  the  same  as  Lemon  Water-ice,  chipping  the  rinds  from 
three  oranges. 


WATER-ICES  AND    SHERBETS  461 

PINEAPPLE   WATER-ICE 

For  this  use  the  large,  yellow  pineapples. 

2  large  pineapples  or  i  %  pounds  of  sugar 

one  quart-can  i  quart  of  water 

Juice  of  two  lemons 

Pare  the  pineapples ;  cut  them  open  and  take  out  the  cores, 
which  should  not  be  used.  Grate  the  pineapples  and  strain 
the  pulp  through  a  French  sieve,  pressing  it  hard  to  get  all 
the  juice ;  add  the  sugar  to  this  juice,  stir  until  dissolved ; 
then  add  the  lemon  juice  and  water,  turn  into  the  freezer, 
and  freeze. 

This  will  serve  ten  persons. 

POMEGRANATE   WATER-ICE 

i  dozen  pomegranates  i  pint  of  water 

i  pound  of  sugar 

Peel  the  pomegranates;  remove  the  seeds  carefully  from  the 
inside  bitter  skin,  press  the  pulp  through  a  sieve  without 
mashing  the  seeds ;  add  the  sugar  to  the  juice,  and  stir  until 
dissolved  ;  then  add  the  water,  strain,  turn  into  the  freezer, 
and  freeze. 

This  will  serve  six  persons. 

RASPBERRY   WATER-ICE 

i  quart  of  red  raspberries     Juice  of  two  lemons 
i  quart  of  water  i  pound  of  sugar 

Add  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice  to  the  berries,  stir,  and  let 
stand  one  hour;  then  press  through  a  sieve,  then  add  the 
water,  turn  into  a  freezer,  and  freeze. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

STRAWBERRY  WATER-ICE 

i  quart  of  red  strawberries     i  quart  of  water 
i  pound  of  sugar  Juice  of  two  lemons 

Add  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice  to  the  strawberries,  then 


462  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

mash  them,  and  stand  aside  one  hour;  then  strain  through 
a  fine  sieve,  add  the  water,  and  turn  into  the  freezer  to 
freeze. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

ORANGE    SHERBET 

Juice  of  twelve  oranges  i  pint  of  sugar 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  gelatine  i  quart  of  boiling  water 
Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water  and  soak  a  half-hour ; 
then  add  the  boiling  water  and  sugar,  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  it  boils.  Stand  out  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the 
orange  juice,  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  Let  stand 
until  cold,  turn  into  a  freezer,  and  freeze  (see  rule  for 
freezing). 

FROZEN   FRUITS 

Frozen  fruits  are  mixed  and  frozen  the  same  as  water-ice, 
mashing  or  cutting  the  fruits,  and  using  them  without 
straining. 

If  canned  fruits  are  used,  only  half  the  quantity  of 
sugar  given  in  the  recipes  for  fresh  fruits  will  be  required. 

FROZEN     APRICOTS 

1  quart-can  of  apricots  i  cup  of  sugar 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  gelatine  i  pint  of  cream 
Drain   the  apricots,  cut   them  up  with  a  silver  spoon,  and 
remove  the  stones.     Add  the  sugar  to  the  syrup,  and  suffi- 
cient water  to  make  one  and  a  half  pints.     Cover  the  gela- 
tine with  cold  water  and  soak  a  half-hour.     Boil  the  water, 
sugar  and  syrup  together  for  five  minutes ;  skim  careful!}', 
add  the  gelatine,  stir  until  dissolved,  add  the  apricots  and 
stand  aside  to  cool.      When  cold,  pour  into  the  freezer, 
and  freeze.     When  frozen,  add  the  cream,  whipped,  remove 


WATER-ICES   AND    SHERBETS  463 

the  dasher,  cover  the  tub,  and  stand  away  two  hours  to 
ripen . 

This  will  serve  ten  persons. 

FROZEN    BANANAS 

i  dozen  red-skin  bananas         i  pint  of  water 

i  pound  of  sugar  Juice  of  two  oranges 

i  pint  of  cream 

Peel  the  bananas,  cut  them  in  slices  with  a  silver  knife, 
then  mash  them  fine.  Boil  the  water  and  sugar  together 
for  five  minutes ;  strain ;  and,  when  cool,  add  the  orange 
juice  and  bananas.  Put  into  the  freezer,  and  turn  slowly 
until  frozen ;  then  remove  the  dasher,  and  stir  in  carefully 
one  pint  of  cream,  whipped. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

FROZEN  CHERRIES 

2  quarts  of  pie  or  morello  cherries,     2  pounds  of  sugar 

or  one  quart-can  i  quart  of  water 

Stone  the  cherries,  mix  them  with  the  sugar,  and  stand 
aside  one  hour ;  then  stir  until  the  sugar  is  thoroughly  dis- 
solved ;  add  the  water,  put  into  the  freezer,  and  turn  rapidly 
until  frozen. 

This  will  serve  ten  persons. 

FROZEN  MIXED  FRUITS         No.  i 

i  pint  of  sour  plums  i  quart  of  water 

1 2  peaches  6  peach  kernels 

i  pound  of  sugar 

Pare  the  peaches  and  chop  them  fine  with  a  silver  spoon. 
Scald  the  plums,  remove  the  skins  and  stones,  mash  the 
plums,  and  add  them  to  the  peaches.  Mash  the  kernels  to 
a  paste,  add  them  and  the  sugar  to  the  fruit ;  let  stand  one 
hour ;  then  add  the  water,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved ;  then  turn  into  the  freezer  and  freeze. 
This  will  serve  ten  persons. 


464  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

FROZEN   MIXED   FRUITS         No.  2 
i  pint  of  strawberries  i  pint  of  red  carrants 

i  pint  of  raspberries  Juice  of  two  lemons 

i  pint  of  water  ij^  pounds  of  sugar 

Mash  the  fruit ;  add  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice  ;  let  stand 
one  hour ;  add  the  water,  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
then  turn  into  the  freezer,  and  freeze. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

FROZEN   ORANGES. 

1  dozen  oranges  i  quart  of  water 
Juice  of  two  lemons  i  pound  of  sugar 

Rub  the  rind  of  three  oranges  well  into  the  sugar ;  then 
peel  all  the  oranges,  open  the  sections  and  take  out  all  the 
pulp ;  then  add  to  it  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice ;  stand 
aside  one  hour ;  then  add  the  water,  stir  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved  ;  then  turn  into  the  freezer,  and  freeze. 
This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

FROZEN  PEACHES 

2  pounds  of  peaches  6  peach  kernels 

1  quart  of  water  \y,  pounds  of  sugar 
Pare  the  peaches  and  take  out  the  stones.     Pound  the  ker- 
nels to  a  paste,  add  them  to  the  sugar,  then  boil  the  sugar 
and  water  together  for  five  minutes,  then  strain  and  stand 
away  to  cool.      When  cold,  add  to  it  the  peaches,  mashed, 
turn  into  the   freezer,  and  freeze.     A  half-teaspoonful  of 
cochineal  may  be  added  if  the  peaches  are  colorless. 

This  will  serve  ten  persons. 

FROZEN    PINEAPPLE 

2  large  rose  pineapples  i  quart  of  water 

2  pounds  of  sugar 

Pare  the  pineapples,  cut  out  the  eyes,  cut  open,  and  remove 
the  cores.     Grate  the  flesh,  add  the  sugar  and  water,  stir 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  turn  into  the  freezer,  and  freeze. 
This  will  serve  ten  persons. 


WATER-ICES  AND    SHERBETS  465 

FROZEN    RASPBERRIES 

i  quart  of  raspberries  i  pound  of  sugar 

Juice  of  two  lemons  i  quart  of  water 

Add  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice  to  the  berries,  then  mash 
them  with  a  potato  masher ;  let  stand  one  hour,  then 
add  the  water,  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  turn  into 
the  freezer,  and  freeze. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

FROZEN    STRAWBERRIES 

i  quart  of  strawberries 
Juice  of  two  lemons 
i  pound  of  sugar 

1  quart  of  water 

Add  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice  to  the  berries ;  let  stand 
one  hour ;  then  mash  the  berries,  add  the  water,  stir  until 
the  sugar  is  thoroughly  dissolved,  turn  into  the  freezer,  and 
freeze. 

This  will  serve  eight  persons. 

FROZEN     PUNCH 

6  lemons 

2  oranges 

^  pint  of  champagne 

i  pint  of  water 

i  gill  of  rum 

i  pound  of  pulverized  sugar 
YZ  gill  of  brandy 

Peel  the  oranges  and  lemons,  then  squeeze  out  all  the  juice, 
add  the  liquors  and  sugar,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved; then  add  the  water,  put  into  the  freezer,  and 
turn  slowly  and  steadily  until  the  mixture  is  partly  frozen. 
It  will  require  a  long  time  to  freeze,  and  should  not  be  frozen 
hard.  Remove  the  dasher,  cover,  and  stand  away  two 
hours  to  ripen.  This  will  fill  twelve  glasses. 


466-  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

ROMAN  PUNCH 

i  quart  of  lemon  water-ice     ^  pint  of  Jamaica  rum 
YZ  pint  of  champagne  i  gill  of  maraschino 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Have  the  lemon  water-ice  frozen  very  hard,  thin  it  slowly 
with  the  liquors,  beat  well.  Pack  and  cover  the  freezer 
well,  stand  it  away  four  or  five  hours  to  ripen.  It  must  not 
be  frozen  hard,  as  it  is  better  when  served  rather  liquid  and 
frothy.  Serve  in  glasses. 

FROZEN    COFFEE 

i  quart  of  water  ^  pound  of  sugar 

4  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  ground  coffee 
The  coffee  should  be  ground  very  fine,  then  put  in  a  farina 
boiler.  Add  one  quart  of  freshly  boiled  water,  and  steep 
for  fifteen  minutes,  then  strain  through  a  very  fine  muslin, 
add  the  sugar,  and  stir  until  dissolved.  Turn  into  the 
freezer,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  the  white  of  egg,  and 
freeze  until  the  consistency  of  soft  mush.  Serve  in  goblets. 
Frozen  tea  may  be  made  in  the  same  way. 


JELLIES 


GELATINE  JELLIES 

LEMON    JELLY 

i  box  of  gelatine  3  large  lemons 

i  pound  of  sugar  i  quart  of  boiling  water 

i  pint  of  cold  water 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  cold  water,  and  let  soak  one 
hour ;  then  add  the  boiling  water,  sugar  and  lemon  juice, 
and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  ;  strain,  and  stand  in  a 
cold  place  to  harden. 

ORANGE   JELLY 

Make  the  same  as  Lemon  Jelly,  using  one  pint  of  boiling 
water  and  one  pint  of  orange  juice. 

WINE    JELLY 

i  box  of  gelatine  y2  pint  of  cold  water 

i  pint  of  sherry  i  pint  of  boiling  water 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak  one 
hour,  then  add  the  boiling  water  and  sugar,  and  stir  until 
the  sugar  is  dissolved ;  add  the  wine,  strain  through  a  flan- 
nel, turn  into  forms,  and  stand  away  to  harden. 

PORT  JELLY 
Make  the  same  as  Wine  Jelly,  using  one  pint  of  port  wine. 

This  makes  a  very  dark  jelly. 

(467) 


468  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

BRANDY  JELLY 

Make  the  same  as  Wine  Jelly,  using  a  half-pint  of  wine, 
and  a  half-pint  of  brandy,  instead  of  the  one  pint  of  wine. 

CARDINAL  JELLY 

i  box  of  gelatine  i  pint  of  cranberry  juice 

YZ  pint  of  sherry  y2  pint  of  cold  water 

i  pint  of  boiling  water  i  pound  of  sugar 
Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  cold  water,  and  let  soak  one 
hour ;  then  add  the  sugar  and  boiling  water,  stir  until  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  then  add  the  wine.  Put  one  quart  of 
cranberries  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  and  stand  them  over 
the  back  part  of  the  stove  until  thoroughly  heated,  then 
mash  them,  and  squeeze  through  a  flannel  bag ;  add  one 
pint  of  this  juice  to  the  jelly,  and  strain  the  whole  through 
the  jelly-bag.  Stand  away  to  cool. 

A  GOOD  MIXED  JELLY 

i  box  of  gelatine  i  pound  of  sugar 

Juice  of  two  lemons  Juice  of  two  oranges 

y?,  pint  of  sherry  i  gill  of  brandy 

y&  pint  of  cold  water  i  quart  of  boiling  water 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water,  and  let  soak  one  hour ; 
then  add  the  sugar  and  boiling  water,  stir  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved ;  '  then  add  the  lemon  and  orange  juice,  the 
sherry  and  brandy.  Strain  through  a  flannel  jelly-bag,  and 
stand  away  to  harden. 

ROCK-WORK   OF  JELLY 

Make  a  Cardinal  and  Lemon  Jelly,  pour  each  in  a  large  tin 
basin,  and  stand  in  a  cold  place  over  night.  When  ready 
to  use,  cut  the  jelly  into  blocks  and  heap  on  a  round,  flat 
dish,  using  dark  and  light  jellies  alternately.  Garnish  with 
smilax  studded  with  carnations. 

This  makes  a  very  handsome  dish  to  serve  with  sweet- 
meats. 


JELLIES  469 

CALF'S  FOOT  JELLY 

4  calves'  feet  2  inches  of  stick  cinnamon 

6  quarts  of  cold  water     i  pound  of  white  sugar 
Juice  of  four  lemons       Juice  of  two  oranges 

Whites  and  shells  of  two  eggs 

Clean  the  feet,  wash  and  scrub  them  well  in  cold  water. 
Put  them  in  a  soup  kettle  with  the  cold  water,  and  simmer 
slowly  for  eight  hours.  It  should  be  reduced  to  two 
quarts.  When  done,  strain  the  liquid  into  an  earthen 
bowl,  and  stand  it  away  until  next  day.  In  the  morning, 
remove  all  the  fat  from  the  surface,  and  the  sediment  from 
the  bottom  of  the  jelly.  Now  put  it  in  a  kettle,  and  stand 
it  over  the  fire  ;  add  the  cinnamon,  sugar,  lemon  and 
orange  juice,  the  whites  of  the  eggs  slightly  beaten,  and  the 
shells  crushed.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together,  and 
boil  it  hard,  without  stirring,  twenty  minutes.  Now  throw 
in  a  gill  of  cold  water,  let  it  come  again  to  a  boil ;  then 
stand  it  on  the  side  of  the  range,  and  keep  it  closely  cov- 
ered for  a  half-hour.  Dip  a  flannel  jelly-bag  into  boiling 
water,  and  hang  it  where  a  bowl  can  be  placed  under- 
neath. Now  pour  the  jelly  into  the  bag  carefully,  and  let 
it  drip  slowly.  On  no  account  must  you  squeeze  or  touch 
the  bag,  as  this  clouds  the  jelly  at  once.  Turn  it  into 
moulds,  and  stand  in  a  cold  place. 

If  you  use  wine,  a  half- pint  of  sherry  may  be  added 
before  putting  it  into  the  moulds. 

ASPIC   JELLY 

i  pound  of  uncooked  beef  i  large  tablespoonful  of 
A  knuckle  of  veal  butter 

^  pound  of  bacon  i  onion 

i  slice  of  turnip  ^  carrot 

1  slice  of  parsnip  A  stalk  of  celery 

2  cloves  6  pepper-corns 


470  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

1  blade  of  mace  3  whole  allspice 

A  chip  of  lemon  rind          i  tablespoon ful  of  Worces- 

2  quarts  of  water  tershire  sauce 

Salt  to  taste 

Put  the  bacon  in  the  bottom  of  a  soup  kettle,  let  it  brown, 
then  add  the  onion  cut  in  slices  ;  stir  until  a  nice  brown  ; 
then  add  the  butter,  and,  when  hot,  the  beef;  cover  the 
kettle  and  let  it  simmer  until  a  thick  brown  glaze  is  formed 
in  the  bottom  of  the  kettle ;  then  add  the  veal  and  the 
water,  and  simmer  gently  for  two  hours.  Now  add  the  veg- 
etables, Worcestershire  sauce,  spices,  and  lemon  rind,  and 
simmer  two  hours  longer.  When  done,  it  should  be  reduced 
one-half.  Strain  and  clarify  the  same  as  Bouillon.  Turn 
into  a  square  mould  or  the  small  aspic  jelly  moulds.  If 
you  use  a  large  mould,  cut  the  jelly  into  blocks. 

This  is  used  as  a  garnish  for  Beef  a  la  Mode,  Boned 
Turkey,  or  any  other  cold-meat  dish. 

FRUIT  JELLIES 

APPLE  JELLY 

Lady  blush  or  fall  pippins  are  best  for  jelly.  The  first 
make  a  bright-red  jelly,  and  the  latter  an  almost  white 
jelly. 

Wipe  the  fruit,  cut  it  into  pieces  without  paring  or 
removing  the  seeds.  Put  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle  and 
barely  cover  with  cold  water ;  cover  the  kettle,  and  boil 
slowly  until  the  apples  are  very  tender ;  then  drain  them 
through  a  flannel  jelly-bag — do  not  squeeze,  or  the  jelly 
will  be  cloudy.  To  every  pint  of  this  juice  allow  one  pound 
of  granulated  sugar.  Put  the  juice  into  a  porcelain-lined 
kettle,  and  bring  it  quickly  to  a  boil ;  add  the  sugar,  stir 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  boil  rapidly  and  continu- 
ously until  it  jellies,  skimming  the  scum  as  it  comes  to  the 


JELLIES  471 

surface  ;  twenty  minutes  is  usually  sufficient,  but  sometimes 
I  have  boiled  it  thirty- five  minutes  before  it  would  jelly 
properly.  It  is  wise  to  commence  testing  after  fifteen 
minutes'  boiling.  To  do  this,  take  out  one  teaspoonful'of 
the  boiling  jelly,  pour  it  into  the  bottom  of  a  saucer,  and 
stand  it  in  a  cold  place  for  a  moment ;  then  scrape  it  one 
side  with  a  spoon — if  jellied,  the  surface  will  be  partly 
solid  ;  if  not,  boil  a  few  minutes  longer,  and  try  again. 
As  soon  as  it  jellies,  roll  the  tumblers  quickly  in  boiling 
water,  then  fill  them  with  the  boiling  liquid.  Stand  aside 
until  cold  and  firm  (about  twenty-four  hours).  Then,  if 
you  have  jelly-tumblers,  put  on  the  lids ;  if  not,  cover  with 
two  thicknesses  of  tissue  paper,  and  paste  the  edges  of  the 
paper  down  over  the  edge  of  the  tumbler.  Then  moisten 
the  top  of  the  paper  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  cold  water. 
This  moistening  stretches  the  paper,  so  that  when  it  dries 
again  it  shrinks  and  forms  a  covering  as  tight  and  smoo*th 
as  bladder  skin.  I  do  not  recommend  jelly  being  covered 
with  brandied  paper,  as  in  my  hands  it  has  never  been  sat- 
isfactory. The  jelly,  in  cooling,  forms  its  own  air-proof 
covering,  and  if  the  top  of  the  tumbler  be  well  secured,  it 
is  all  that  is  necessary.  Keep  in  a  cool,  dark  place. 

CRAB  APPLE  JELLY 

Cut  the  large  Siberian  crab  apples  into  halves,  and  then 
into  quarters,  and  to  every  five  pounds  of  apples  allow  one 
pint  of  water.  Proceed  and  finish  precisely  the  same  as  for 
Apple  Jelly. 

BLACKBERRY  JELLY 

The  uncultivated  blackberries  are  best  for  jelly,  and  should 
be  rather  under-  than  over-ripe.  Put  the  berries  into  a 
stone  jar,  stand  it  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water,  cover  the  top 


472  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

of  the  jar,  and  boil  slowly  for  one  hour,  or  until  the  ber- 
ries are  quite  soft.  Now  put  a  small  quantity  at  a  time  into 
your  jelly-bag,  and  squeeze  out  all  the  juice.  Measure  the 
juice,  and  to  each  pint  allow  one  pound  of  granulated 
sugar.  Turn  the  juice  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  and 
stand  over  a  brisk  fire.  Put  the  sugar  into  earthen  dishes 
and  stand  them  in  the  oven  to  heat.  Boil  the  juice  rapidly 
and  continuously  for  twenty  minutes,  then  turn  in  the  sugar, 
hastily  stirring  all  the  while  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved. 
Dip  your  tumblers  quickly  into  hot  water,  watch  the  liquid 
carefully,  and,  as  soon  as  it  comes  again  to  a  boil,  take  it 
from  the  fire  and  fill  the  tumblers. 

If  the  fruit  is  over -ripe,  your  jelly  will  never  be  firm, 
no  matter  how  long  you  boil  it. 

Follow  these  directions  carefully,  and  you  will  never 
fail. 

CHERRY  JELLY 

For  Cherry  Jelly,  use  the  pie  or  morello  cherry,  and  pro- 
ceed the  same  as  for  Blackberry  Jelly. 

CRANBERRY  JELLY 

i  quart  of  cranberries  i  pound  of  sugar 

y?  pint  of  water 

Wash  the  cranberries  and  put  them  on  with  the  water  to 
boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  mash  and  squeeze  through  a 
flannel  bag.  Return  the  juice  to  the  kettle,  add  the  sugar, 
boil  rapidly  and  continuously  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  or 
until  it  jellies,  and  turn  out  to  cool. 

CURRANT  JELLY 

Select  currants  that  have  been  freshly  picked  and  are  not 
too  ripe.  If  they  are  sandy,  wash  them,  but  do  not  stem. 
Mash  a  small  quantity  at  a  time  in  a  stone  jar,  with  a 


JELLIES  473 

potato-masher,  squeeze  through  a  flannel  bag,  then  strain 
again  without  squeezing,  that  the  liquid  may  be  perfectly 
clear.  Turn  the  liquid  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  stand 
over  a  brisk  fire.  Put  the  sugar  into  earthen  basins,  and 
put  in  the  oven  to  heat.  Boil  the  juice  twenty  minutes 
after  it  begins  to  boil,  then  stir  in  hastily  the  hot  sugar, 
and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  no  longer.  Skirn 
thoroughly,  bring  it  quickly  to  a  boil  again,  and  boil  two 
minutes.  Dip  the  tumblers  into  hot  water,  fill  them  with 
the  boiling  liquid,  and  stand  away  for  twenty-four  hours  to 
jelly.  If  it  is  not  then  sufficiently  jellied,  cover  the 
tumblers  with  common  window-glass  and  stand  in  the  sun 
several  days.  Then  cover  with  tissue  paper  as  directed 
for  Blackberry  Jelly. 

DAMSON  JELLY 

Make  precisely  the  same  as  Blackberry  Jelly. 

GRAPE  JELLY 

For  this  use   ripe   Concord,  Isabella,  or   Clinton  grapes. 
They  should  be  freshly  picked,  and  with   the  bloom  on. 
Make  precisely  the  same  as  Blackberry  Jelly. 

GREEN  GRAPE  JELLY 

Fox  grapes  are  the  best  for  this.  Stem  the  grapes,  put 
them  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  barely  cover  with  cold 
water,  and  finish  the  same  as  Apple  Jelly. 

PEACH  JELLY 

Pare,  stone,  and  slice  the  peaches,  put  them  into  a  stone 
jar,  and  to  each  half-peck  of  peaches,  allow  one  cup  of 
water.  Crack  a  dozen  of  the  kernels  and  throw  them  in 
with  the  peaches.  Stand  the  jar  in  a  kettle  of  boiling 


474  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

water,  cover  closely,  and  boil  for  one  hour,  stirring  until 
the  fruit  is  well  broken,  then  turn  into  a  flannel  jelly-bag, 
and  hang  up  to  drip.  To  every  pound  of  this  juice  allow 
the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  one  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 
Finish  the  same  as  Apple  Jelly. 

PEAR  JELLY 

Make  precisely  the  same  as  Apple  Jelly.  This  is  very 
difficult  to  make. 

PLUM  JELLY 

For  this  use  the  common  blue  plums.  Wash  them  in  cold 
water,  put  them  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  and  to  each 
half-peck  allow  a  pint  of  water;  cover  the  kettle,  and  stew 
slowly  until  the  plums  are  boiled  to  pieces;  then  turn  into 
a  flannel  jelly-bag  and  let  drip  slowly;  do  not  squeeze,  or 
the  jelly  will  be  cloudy.  Finish  the  same  as  Apple  Jelly. 

QUINCE  JELLY 

Wipe  the  fruit,  cut  it  in  halves,  then  in  quarters,  remove 
the  seeds  but  do  not  pare.  Now  cut  the  quinces  into  thin 
slices,  and  finish  the  same  as  Apple  Jelly. 

The  better  way  is  to  use  the  nice  pieces  for  canning  or 
preserving,  and  save  the  parings  and  knotty  pieces  for  jelly, 
always  rejecting  the  seeds,  as  they  prevent  the  jelly  from 
being  clear  and  firm. 

RASPBERRY  JELLY 

Make  precisely  the  same  as  Blackberry  Jelly. 

STRAWBERRY  JELLY 
Make  precisely  the  same  as  Blackberry  Jelly. 


PLAIN   CAKES,  BUNS,   ETC. 


BREAD  CAKE 

i  pint  of  bread  dough  2  eggs 

i  cup  of  sugar  2  ounces  of  butter 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Take  the  dough  at  the  second  kneading,  put  it  into  a  large 
bowl,  and  add  all  the  other  ingredients.  Beat  with  the 
hand  until  smooth  and  free  from  strings,  then  turn  into  a 
greased  pan,  cover,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  (72°  Fahr.) 
until  light  (this  will  take  about  two  hours).  Bake  in  a 
moderately  quick  oven  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

MORAVIAN  SUGAR  CAKE 

Y?.  pound  of  brown  sugar  6  ounces  of  butter 

1  pint  of  milk  3  pints  of  flour 

2  eggs  2  tablespoon  fuls  of  powdered 
^  cup  of  yeast  or  half  of  cinnamon 

a  compressed  cake  i  teaspoonful  of  salt 
Cut  four  ounces  of  the  butter  into  small  pieces,  add  it  to 
the  milk,  turn  into  a  farina  boiler,  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  the  milk  is  scalding  hot  and  the  butter  melted.  Sift 
the  flour  into  a  large  bowl.  When  the  milk  is  lukewarm, 
add  the  yeast  and  salt.  Make  a  well  in  the  centre  of  the 
flour,  pour  into  it  the  milk,  and  stir  in  sufficient  flour  to 
make  a  thin  batter ;  cover,  and  set  in  a  warm  place  until 

(475) 


476  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

very  light  (this  will  take  about  two  hours  and  a  half). 
When  light,  add  the  eggs  well  beaten,  half  the  cinnamon, 
and  half  the  sugar;  then  stir  in  the  remainder  of  the  flour. 
Beat  it  very  hard,  pour  into  a  greased,  shallow,  baking-pan 
and  set  it  again  to  rise.  Mix  the  remaining  sugar  and 
cinnamon  until  smooth  and  light.  When  the  cake  is  light, 
make  deep  holes  at  equal  distances  all  over  it,  filling  each 
hole  as  soon  as  it  is  made,  with  a  teaspoon ful  of  the  paste. 
Dust  the  cake  heavily  with  powdered  sugar,  and  bake  in  a 
moderately  quick  oven  one  hour. 

RUSK 

1  pint  of  milk  2  eggs 

2  ounces  of  butter  or  lard         i  cup  of  sugar 

y>,  cup  of  yeast 

Put  the  milk  on  to  scald  in  a  farina  boiler,  add  the  butter 
or  lard  and  the  eggs  well  beaten.  When  lukewarm,  add 
the  sugar,  pour  into  a  large  bowl,  add  a  half-teaspoon  ful  of 
salt  and  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Beat  con- 
tinuously for  five  minutes,  cover  and  stand  in  a  warm  place 
(72°  Fahr.)  over  night.  In  the  morning,  add  sufficient 
flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Knead  lightly  for  ten  minutes, 
put  back  in  the  bowl,  cover,  and  set  again  to  rise.  When 
light,  pinch  off  about  a  tablespoonful  of  the  dough,  form 
into  a  ball  with  the  fingers,  stand  in  greased  .pans,  cover, 
and  set  again  to  rise.  When  light,  brush  the  tops  over 
with  a  little  milk  or  the  white  of  an  egg.  This  makes  a  nice 
brown  crust.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty  minutes. 

SPANISH  BUN 

y2  pound  of  butter         i  gill  of  yeast 
y^  pound  of  sugar          i  teaspoon  ful  of  cinnamon 
y>,  pound  of  currants      i  nutmeg,  grated 
3  eggs  ^  teaspoonful  of  mace 

y^  pint  of  cream  i  pound  of  flour 

Warm  the  cream  gently,  take  it  from  the  fire,  add  the  but- 


PLAIN   CAKES  477 

ter  cut  into  dice.  Beat  the  eggs  until  very  light,  stir  them 
into  the  cream  ;  then  add  the  sugar,  slowly,  stirring  all  the 
time;  then  add  the  flour,  spices,  and  yeast ;  give  a  thorough 
beating,  and  add  the  currants  well  floured.  Pour  into  a 
square  baking-pan,  well  greased  (the  batter  should  be  about 
one  inch  thick),  cover,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  to  rise 
for  four  or  five  hours.  When  it  has  doubled  its  bulk,  place 
in  a  moderately  quick  oven,  and  bake  one  hour.  When 
done,  turn  from  the  pan,  dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and 
use  while  fresh. 

SWING  FELLOWS 

Make  the  same  as  Rusk,  and,  when  light  enough  for  the 
pans,  instead  of  making  into  balls,  take  off  a  piece  the  size 
of  a  coffee-cup,  roll  it  out  the  size  of  a  tin  pie  dish,  and 
about  one  inch  thick,  place  it  on  a  greased  pie  dish,  make 
holes  about  one  inch  apart  all  over  the  top,  put  a  small  bit 
of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  little  cinnamon  in 
each  hole.  Set  away  until  light,  and  bake  in  a  moderately 
quick  oven  twenty  minutes. 

BATH  BUNS 

i  pint  of  milk  Y?  cup  of  yeast  or  half  of  a 

i  cup  of  butter  compressed    cake  dis- 

Yolks  of  six  egg  solved  in  a  half-cup  of 

\Yz  quarts  of  sifted  flour  lukewarm  water 

YZ  cup  of  currants  ^  cup  of  chopped  citron 

YI  cup  of  sugar  i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

Boil  the  milk,  add  the  butter  while  hot,  and  let  it  stand 
until  blood-warm  (98°  Fahr.),  then  stir  in  the  yeast  and 
flour.  Beat  well,  cover,  and  let  stand  in  a  warm  place  (70° 
Fahr.)  until  morning.  In  the  morning,  beat  the  sugar  and 
yolks  together,  add  them  and  the  cinnamon  to  the  sponge. 


478  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

Wash  and  rub  the  currants,  then  dry  them  in  a  towel,  flour 
them,  then  add  them  and  the  citron.  Work  with  the  hand 
until  thoroughly  mixed.  Now  add  flour  until  you  can  take 
the  dough  out  on  a  board.  Roll  out,  cut  with  a  round 
cutter,  put  in  greased  pans,  cover,  and  set  away  in  a  warm 
place  (72°  Fahr.)  until  very  light.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven 
(300°  Fahr.)  thirty-five  minutes. 


CINNAMON    BUN 

2  ounces  of  butter         i  teaspoonful  of  salt 

3  eggs  i  pint  of  milk 

y2  cup  of  yeast  or  half  of  a  compressed  cake 
Put  the  milk  in  a  farina  boiler  to  scald.  Beat  the  eggs  until 
light,  pour  over  them  the  milk,  add  the  butter,  and  let 
stand  until  lukewarm  ;  then  add  the  yeast  and  salt  and 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Beat  thoroughly  and 
continuously  for  five  minutes  ;  cover,  and  stand  in  a  warm 
place  over  night.  In  the  morning,  add  one  cupful  of  flour, 
beat  thoroughly,  and  then  add  sufficient  flour,  a  little  at  a 
time,  working  all  the  while  with  the  hand,  to  make  a  soft 
dough.  Take  out  on  the  baking-board  and  knead  lightly 
for  ten  minutes  (it  must  not  be  as  stiff  as  bread).  Put  back 
into  the  bowl,  cover,  and  let  stand  in  a  warm  place  until 
very  light.  Then  take  about  one-half  of  this  dough  out  on 
the  baking-board,  roll  it  out  into  a  thin  sheet,  spread 
lightly  with  butter,  cover  thickly  with  sugar,  sprinkle  with 
dried  currants  and  cinnamon,  and  roll  tightly  in  a  long 
roll.  Cut  through  this  roll  about  each  two  inches,  place  the 
buns  flat,  closely  together  in  a  greased  pan.  Roll  out  the 
remaining  dough  in  the  same  manner,  cover,  and  stand 
again  in  a  warm  place  until  very  light.  Bake  in  a  moder- 
ately quick  oven  for  about  a  half-hour.  Turn  them  out  of 
the  pan  while  hot. 


PLAIN  CAKES  479 

KRAPFEN 

1  pint  of  bread  dough     ^  cup  of  citron,  cut  fine 

2  eggs  i  cup  of  sugar 

Y?  nutmeg,  grated  ^  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

2  ounces  of  butter 

Take  the  dough  at  the  second  kneading  and  measure  it. 
Put  it  into  a  large  bowl  with  the  cinnamon,  butter,  sugar, 
eggs,  and  nutmeg.  Beat  with  the  hand  until  free  from  any 
strings,  then  add  the  fruit  well  floured,  turn  it  into  a  greased 
pan,  cover,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  (72°  Fahr.)  until 
light  (this  will  take  about  two  hours).  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 


FANCY    CAKES 


In  making  cake,  accuracy  in  proportioning  the  ingredients 
is  indispensable.  Success  usually  follows  those  who  are 
attentive  to  each  detail.  The  baking  is  usually  the  most 
difficult  part.  It  is  useless  to  attempt  to  make  good,  light 
cakes  unless  the  eggs  are  perfectly  fresh,  and  you  have 
good,  sweet  butter  and  fine  flour. 

HINTS    TO    BE    REMEMBERED 

Never  beat  the  but'ter,  sugar,  or  eggs  in  a  tin  basin.  Use 
an  earthen  bowl  and  a  wooden  spoon. 

Measure  everything  carefully  before  beginning. 

Always  beat  the  whites  and  yolks  of  eggs  separately. 

Powdered  sugar  makes  a  lighter  cake  than  granulated. 

Measure  the  flour  after  sifting,  unless  the  recipe  says 
otherwise. 

Use  judgment  about  the  thickness  of  the  batter,  as 
flour  differs  in  thickening  qualities.  When  the  cake  rises 
in  the  centre,  and  cracks  open,  and  remains  that  way,  you 
may  be  sure  you  have  used  too  much  flour. 

When  a  recipe  calls  for  a  teaspoon ful  of  baking-pow- 
der, you  can  always  use  in  its  place  one  teaspoonful  of 

cream  of  tartar,  and  a  half-teaspoon  ful  of  soda.     Sift  the 
(48o) 


FANCY   CAKES  481 

cream  of  tartar  in  the  flour ;  dissolve  the  soda  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  boiling  water,  and  add  it  to  the  cake  before  the 
whites  of  the  eggs. 

Currants  should  be  cleaned,  w/ua^ed  and  dried,  and 
then  floured  before  using.  Raisins  should  be  seeded  and 
floured. 

Lard  is  best  to  grease  the  cake  pans,  as  butter  sticks 
and  burn  easily. 

Have  the  oven  ready  to  receive  the  cake  as  soon  as  it 
is  mixed.  The  oven  can  wait  for  the  cake,  but  the  cake 
can  never  wait  for  the  oven. 

Cakes  without  butter  require  a  quick  oven ;  with  but- 
ter, a  moderate  oven. 

Cookies  or  small  cakes  require  a  moderately  quick 
oven ;  molasses  cakes,  careful  watching,  in  a  moderately 
quick  oven,  as  they  scorch  easily. 

If  your  cake  browns  as  soon  as  you  put  it  in  the  oven, 
the  oven  is  too  hot;  cool  it  as  quickly  as  possible  by  lifting 
a  lid,  and  cover  the  cake  with  a  piece  of  paper.  The  cake 
will  not  be  so  nice,  but  it  is  the  best  you  can  do. 

Never  move  a  cake  in  the  oven  until  the  centre  is 
thoroughly  set. 

Do  not  put  anything  in  the  oven  while  a  cake  is  baking 
or  it  will  surely  fall. 

When  you  look  at  the  cake  while  baking,  do  it  as 
quickly  as  possible,  and  shut  the  door  carefully. 

In  the  recipes  the  time  required  for  baking  is  given  as 
nearly  as  possible,  but  never  take  a  cake  out  unless  you  are 
sure  it  is  done.  If  you  have  doubts,  run  a  broom-splint 
through  the  centre,  and  if  no  dough  adheres,  the  cake  is 
done.  Or  put  your  ear  to  the  cake,  if  it  ticks  loudly,  put 
it  back,  it  is  not  done ;  if  the  ticking  is  very  faint,  it  is 
done. 


482  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

If  the  oven  is  at  the  proper  temperature  you  can  hold 
your  bare  hand  in  the  hottest  part,  while  you  slowly  count 
thirty  (about  twenty  seconds). 

It  is  always  v  M  to  line  the  cake-pans  with  greased 
paper  to  prevent  burning  at  the  bottom,  and  it  will  also  aid 
you  in  removing  the  cake. 

When  the  cake  is  done,  turn  it  out  gently  on  a  sieve 
or  cloth,  remove  the  paper,  and  allow  it  to  cool.  Never 
handle  while  hot. 

Use  cups  of  the  same  size  to  measure  all  the  materials. 

Never  melt  or  warm  the  butter,  but  beat  it  to  a  cream. 
Add  to  all  cakes  a  quarter-teaspoon ful  of  salt. 

CHOCOLATE  CAKE 

2  ounces  of  chocolate  ^  cup  of  butter 

4  eggs  ij<2  cups  of  sugar 

y2  cup  of  milk  i  heaping  teaspoon  ful  of 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  baking-powder 

i^  cups  of  flour 

Dissolve  the  chocolate  in  five  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling 
water.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  gradually  the  sugar, 
beating  all  the  while ;  add  the  yolks,  beat  again,  then  the 
milk,  then  the  melted  chocolate  and  flour.  Give  the  whole 
a  vigorous  beating.  Now  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  stir  them  carefully  into  the  mixture ;  add 
the  vanilla  and  baking-powder.  Mix  quickly  and  lightly, 
turn  into  a  greased  cake-pan,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
forty-five  minutes. 

GRAFTON    CAKE 

i  ^  cups  of  sugar  2  eggs 

1  cup  of  water  3  cups  of  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  (or  two     i  heaping  teaspoonful  of 

ounces)  of  butter  baking-powder 

i^  of  a  nutmeg,  grated 
Beat  the  yolks,  sugar,  and  butter  together  until  light,  then 


FANCY   CAKES  483 

add  the  water  and  half  the  flour,  beat  until  smooth ;  add 
the  well-beaten  whites,  and  the  remainder  of  the  flour,  then 
the  baking-powder  and  nutmeg.  Mix  all  well  together, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  three -quar/^rs  of  an  hour. 

CAKE   WITHOUT    EGGS 

i  y?  cups  of  sugar  i  cup  of  milk 

2  cups  of  flour  2  tablespoonfuls  (or  two 

i  teaspoonful  of  baking-  ounces)  of  butter 

powder  i  teaspoonful  of  flavoring 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  milk  and 
flour,  and  beat  vigorously ;  add  the  salt,  flavoring  and  bak- 
ing-powder ;  mix  well,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about 
thirty  minutes. 

BUTTERMILK    CAKE 

i  cup  of  butter  2  cups  of  buttermilk 

3  cups  of  sugar  y2  teaspoonful  of  soda  or 

5  cups  of  flour  saleratus 

4  eggs 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  sugar  and  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs;  beat  again  until  very  light.  Mash  the 
soda  or  saleratus,  add  it  to  the  buttermilk,  stir  until  dis- 
solved, then  add  to  the  other  mixture.  Add  the  flour,  beat 
until  smooth,  then  stir  in  quickly  the  well-beaten  whites. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

INDIAN    LOAF   CAKE 

i  pound  of  Indian  meal          ^  pound  of  butter 
%  pound  of  raisins  %  pound  of  currants 

*fa  pound  of  sugar  2  eggs 

Cut  the  butter  into  the  meal,  and  pour  over  it  sufficient 
boiling  milk  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Beat  the  eggs  all 
together  until  very  light.  When  the  batter  is  cool,  add  the 
eggs  and  sugar.  Seed  the  raisins ;  wash,  pick  and  dry  the 
currants ;  mix  the  fruit  and  flour  them  well,  stir  them  into 
the  batter,  and  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven  two  hours. 


484  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

PORK  CAKE 
i  cup  of  fat  pork,         i  cup  of  raisins 

chopped  fine          i  cup  of  molasses 
i  cup  of  milk  y?,  teaspoonful  of  soda  or  saleratus 

4  cups  of  flour  YZ  teaspoonful  of  salt 

Seed  the  raisins  and  flour  them  well.  Mash  the  soda,  dis- 
solve it  in  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water,  add  it  to  the 
molasses,  then  add  the  milk,  pork  and  flour;  beat  thor- 
oughly, add  the  raisins  and  salt,  mix  thoroughly,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  one.  hour. 

DRIED  FRUIT    CAKE 

3  cups  of  dried  apples  or        2  cups  of  molasses 

any  other  dried  fruit         2  eggs 
24  cup  of  butter '  i  cup  of  milk 

i  cup  of  sugar  i  teaspoonful  of  soda 

i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon    ^  teaspoonful  of  cloves 

Y-Z  nutmeg,  grated 

Soak  the  fruit  over  night  in  cold  water.  Then  chop  it 
slightly,  and  simmer  in  the  molasses  for  two  hours.  Beat  the 
eggs  and  sugar  together  until  light,  then  add  the  butter; 
beat  again,  add  the  fruit,  milk,  spices,  soda  dissolved  in  a 
tablespoonful  of  boiling  water,  and  sufficient  flour  to  make 
a  stiff  batter  that  will  drop  from  the  spoon.  Bake  in  a  very 
moderate  oven  for  two  hours. 

MOLASSES  CAKE         No.  i 

1  cup  of  New  Orleans  molasses 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter,  melted 
i  cup  of  boiling  water 

i  teaspoonful  of  soda  or  saleratus 

3  cups  of  flour 

i  tablespoonful  of  ginger 

Dissolve  the  soda  or  saleratus  in  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling 
water,  and  add  it  to  the  molasses,  then  add  the  melted  but- 
ter, boiling  water,  ginger  and  flour.  Beat  until  smooth, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  thirty  minutes. 


FANCY   CAKES  485 

MOLASSES    CAKE         No.  2 

y&  cup  of  New  Orleans  molasses  ^  cup  of  brown  sugar 
y^,  cup  of  sour  cream  i  egg 

Butter  the  size  of  an  egg  (2  i  teaspoonful  of  soda  or 

ounces)  saleratus 

2  cups  of  flour 

Dissolve  the  soda  or  saleratus  in  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling 
water,  and  add  it  to  the  molasses.  Beat  the  egg  and  sugar 
together  until  light,  then  add  the  molasses,  cream  and  flour  ; 
beat  until  smooth  ;  and,  if  you  like,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
ginger  or  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon.  Bake  in  a  shallow 
pan  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  thirty  minutes. 

SOFT   GINGERBREAD 

3  cups  of  flour     i  yz  cups  of  New  Orleans  molasses 
y<2.  cup  of  milk          i  teaspoonful  of  soda 
y^  cup  of  lard  2  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  of  ginger 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  lard  together  ;  then  add 
the  milk,  soda  and  molasses;  add  the  ginger  and  flour. 
Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  them  carefully.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

GINGERBREAD 

y*  pound  of  butter  i  pint  of  New  Orleans  molasses 

y>  pound  of  sugar  2  tablespoonfuls  of  ginger 

3  pints  of  flour  i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 

6  eggs  i  pint  of  milk 

i  teaspoonful  of  soda 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream  ;  then  add  the  sugar.  Beat  the 
eggs  all  together  until  creamy,  add  them  to  the  butter  and 
sugar,  and  beat  well.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  a  tablespoonful 
of  boiling  water,  add  it  to  the  molasses,  mix  well,  and  stir 
it  into  the  other  mixture ;  add  to  it  the  milk  and  flour. 
Beat  all  until  smooth  ;  then  add  the  spices,  mix  well,  and 
pour  into  well-greased,  shallow  pans.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  thirty-five  or  forty  minutes. 


486  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

SPICE  CAKE 

i  cup  of  brown  sugar         i  tablespoonful  of  cinnamon 
y&  cup  of  molasses  i  cup  of  thick,  sour  cream 

i  teaspoonful  of  soda         i  tablespoonful  of  allspice 
3}^  cups  of  flour  i  pound  of  raisins 

Seed  and  chop  the  raisins.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  boiling  water,  add  it  to  the  molasses  ;  then  add 
the  cream,  sugar  and  flour ;  beat  thoroughly,  add  the  spices 
and  the  raisins  well  floured.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
one  hour. 

This  is  very  good. 

HICKORY-NUT  CAKE 

1/1  cup  of  butter  i^  cups  of  sugar 

2  cups  of  flour  ^  cup  of  water 

Whites  of  four  eggs          i  cup  of  hickory-nut  kernels 

i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  water 
and  flour,  stir  until  smooth  ;  add  half  the  well-beaten  whites, 
then  the  nuts,  then  the  remainder  of  the  whites  and  the 
baking-powder.  Pour  into  square,  flat  pans  lined  with 
buttered  paper  to  the  depth  of  three  inches,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  forty-five  minutes. 

CUP  or  i,  2,  3,  4  CAKE 

1  cup  of  butter  3  cups  of  flour 

2  cups  of  sugar  4  eggs 
Mix  and  bake  the  same  as  Pound  Cake. 

PLAIN  CUP  CAKE 

^  cup  of  butter  3  cups  of  flour 

i  ^  cups  of  sugar  Juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon 

i  cup  of  water  or  milk    4  eggs 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder 

Beat  the  butter,  sugar  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  together  until 
light ;  then  add  the  water  or  milk,  and  half  the  flour,  and 
beat  until  smooth ;  then  add  the  well-beaten  whites,  then 


FANCY   CAKES  487 

the  remainder  of  the  flour,  then  the  juice  and  rind  of  the 
lemon  and  the  baking-powder.  Mix  thoroughly  and  bake 
in  a  greased  Turk's-head,  in  a  moderate  oven,  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

COCOANUT    LOAF  CAKE 

]/±  pound  of  butter  5  eggs 

i  pound  of  sugar  2  cups  of  grated  cocoanut 

y<2  pound  of  flour  i  cup  of  milk 

Juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon 

Beat  the  yolks,  sugar  and  butter  together  until  very  light ; 
then  add  the  milk,  mix,  add  the  flour  and  lemon,  and  beat 
well ;  then  add  the  cocoanut.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  them  and  the  baking-powder  care- 
fully into  the  cake.  Pour  into  two  square,  flat  pans,  dust 
thickly  with  powdered  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

MARBLE  CAKE 
THE    LIGHT 

i  y>2  cups  of  sugar  2  large  cups  of  flour 

YI  cup  of  butter  Whites  of  four  eggs 

y<z  cup  of  water  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 

Juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  gradually  the  sugar,  then 
add  the  water,  then  half  the  flour,  a  pinch  of  salt ;  add  the 
whites,  well  beaten,  then  the  remainder  of  the  flour,  the 
juice  and  rind  of  the  lemon,  and  stand  aside  while  you  make 

THE    DARK 

i  cup  of  brown  sugar        i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
y±  cup  of  butter  2  ounces  o{j>  melted  chocolate 

y<z  cup  of  water  Yolks  of  four  eggs 

i  y>  cups  of  flour  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Beat  the  butter,  sugar  and  yolks  together  until  very  light; 
then  add  the  water  and  flour ;  beat  until  smooth ;  then 


488  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

add  the  melted  chocolate  and  vanilla,  mix  well,  and  add 
the  baking-powder  to  both  mixtures.  Grease  a  cake-pan, 
put  in  a  layer  of  the  white  mixture,  then  a  layer  of  dark, 
and  so  continue  these  alternations  until  all  is  used.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  from  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  an 
hour.  If  the  oven  is  too  hot,  cover  with  paper  to  prevent 
scorching. 

SPONGE  CAKE 

6  eggs 

Weight  of  the  eggs  in  sugar 

Half  the  weight  of  the  eggs  in  flour 

Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 

After  weighing  the  sugar  and  flour,  separate  the  eggs.  Beat 
the  yolks  and  sugar  together  until  very  light.  Now  add  the 
juice  and  rind  of  the  lemon  and  half  the  flour.  'Beat  the 
whites  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  add  half  of  them  to  the  cake, 
then  the  remaining  half  of  the  flour,  and  then  the  remain- 
ing half  of  the  whites;  stir  lightly,  and  pour  into  a  greased 
cake-pan.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  forty-five  minutes. 

ANGEL  FOOD 

Whites  of  eleven  eggs        i^  cups  of  granulated  sugar 
i  teaspoonful  of  flavoring       i  cup  of  sifted  flour 

i  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar 

Put  the  cream  of  tartar  into  the  sifted  flour,  and  sift  it  five 
times.  Sift  the  sugar.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a 
very  stiff  froth,  add  the  sugar,  and  mix  carefully ;  then  add 
the  flour  gradually,  stirring  all  the  while,  and,  last,  the 
flavoring.  Turn  quickly  into  an  ungreased  pan,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  (say,  260°  Fahr.)  for  forty-five  minutes. 
Take  from  the  oven,  turn  the  pan  upside  down  on  a  rest, 
and  let  it  stand  until  the  cake  falls  out. 

It  is  best  to  bake  this  in  a  Turk's-head.     You  can  then 
then  rest  it  on  the  tube. 


FANCY   CAKES  489 

SUNSHINE   CAKE 

Whites  of  eleven  eggs     i  cup  of  unsifted  flour 
ii^  cups  of  sugar  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Yolks  of  three  eggs  i  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar 
Put  the  cream  of  tartar  into  the  flour,  and  sift  it.  Beat  the 
whites  to  a  very  stiff  froth  ;  beat  the  yolks  and  add  them  to 
the  whites,  add  the  sugar  carefully,  then  the  flavoring,  and, 
last,  the  flour ;  mix  thoroughly  but  lightly  and  quickly, 
turn  into  an  ungreased  pan,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
forty-five  minutes.  When  done,  turn  it  upside  down  on  a 
rest,  and  the  cake  will  fall  out  itself.  It  is  best  to  bake 
Sunshine  Cake  in  a  tin  Turk's-head,  the  centre  tube  being 
longer  than  the  sides,  so  that  when  it  is  turned  over  it  rests 
on  the  tube,  thus  allowing  the  air  to  pass  around  the  cake. 

POUND  CAKE 

i  pound  of  butter      i  pound  of  powdered  sugar 
10  eggs  i  pound  of  flour 

i  gill  of  brandy  ^  teaspoonful  of  mace 
Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  gradually  the  sugar,  beating 
all  the  while.  Beat  the  eggs,  without  separating,  until 
very,  very  light,  add  them  gradually  to  the  butter  and 
sugar,  and  beat  the  whole  vigorously.  Add  the  flour  sifted  ; 
beat  well,  add  the  mace  and  brandy.  Line  a  round  cake- 
pan  with  buttered  paper,  pour  in  the  cake,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  one  and  a  quarter  hours. 

LADY  CAKE 

y±  pound  of  bitter  almonds  ^  pound  of  butter 

i  pound  of  powdered  sugar          10  ounces  of  flour 

Whites  of  seventeen  eggs. 

Blanch  and  pound  the  almonds  to  a  smooth  paste,  adding 
a  few  drops  of  rose-water  to  prevent  them  from  oiling. 
Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  gradually  add  the  sugar, 
beating  all  the  while.  Add  the  pounded  almonds,  and 


490  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

beat  vigorously  until  very,  very  light.  Sift  the  flour,  beat 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  then  stir  into 
the  butter  and  sugar  alternately  the  flour  and  the  whites  of 
the  eggs,  a  little  at  a  time.  Beat  the  whole  as  hard  as  pos- 
sible, turn  into  a  greased  pan,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  about  one  hour.  When  cold,  ice  with  Lemon  Icing. 

FRUIT  CAKE         No.   i 

10  eggs  i  nutmeg 

i  pound  of  sugar  i  teaspoonful  of  allspice 

i  pound  of  butter        y?  teaspoonful  of  cloves 
i y?,  pounds  of  currants     i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 
i^  pounds  of  raisins      ^  teaspoonful  of  mace 
y^  pound  of  citron          Juice  and  rind  of  one  orange 
i  pound  of  flour  Juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 

Beat  the  eggs  all  together  until  very  light.  Beat  the  butter 
to  a  cream,  add  the  sugar,  beat  again  ;  add  the  eggs,  then 
the  flour  and  spices,  and  give  the  whole  a  good,  vigorous  beat- 
ing. Stem  and  seed  the  raisins  ;  clean,  wash,  and  dry  the 
currants  ;  cut  the  citron  into  shreds  ;  mix  the  fruit,  and 
flour  it  well,  then  add  it  to  the  cake ;  add  the  juice  and 
rind  of  the  orange  and  lemon ;  stir  all  well  together.  Line 
two  round  cake-pans  with  greased  paper,  pour  in  the  mix- 
ture, and  bake  in  a  very  moderate  oven  four  hours. 
This  will  make  two  four-pound  cakes. 
If  you  use  liquor,  add,  before  the  fruit,  one  gill  of 
brandy. 

FRUIT  CAKE         No.  2 

y?  pound  of  butter 

y2  pound  of  pulverized  sugar 

8  eggs   , 

YZ  pound  of  sifted  flour 
Y^  pound  of  raisins 
Y^  pound  of  sultanas 
%  pound  of  citron 


FANCY   CAKES  491 

y±  pound  of  candied  or  preserved  cherries 
j%  pound  of  candied  or  preserved  gages 
%  pound  of  candied  or  preserved  apricots 
Y^  pound  of  candied  or  preserved  pineapple 
Y^  pound  of  candied  orange  and  lemon  peel 

i  nutmeg,  grated 
%  ounce  of  mace 
%  ounce  of  cinnamon 
^B  ounce  of  cloves 
y^  gill  of  Jamaica  rum 
y,  gill  of  brandy 

Stem  and  seed  the  raisins.  Pick  over  the  sultanas.  Shred 
the  orange  and  lemon  peel  and  ciUon  very  fine.  Cut  all 
the  remaining  fruit  into  tiny  dice.  Beat  the  butter  to  a 
cream,  add  the  sugar  gradually,  and  give  a  thorough  beat- 
ing. Beat  the  eggs  without  separating  until  creamy ;  add 
them  to  the  butter  and  sugar,  then  gradually  add  the  flour ; 
beat  well.  Mix  all  the  fruit  together,  and  flour  it  well. 
Add  the  spices  to  the  batter;  add  the  fruit ;  mix  thoroughly; 
add  the  rum  and  brandy ;  mix  again.  Line  a  round,  straight- 
sided  cake-pan  with  buttered  paper,  turn  in  the  mixture, 
and  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven  four  and  a  half  hours.  When 
done,  take  it  from  the  pan  and  let  it  stand  over  night  to 
cool.  Next  day,  mix  one  pint  of  champagne,  a  half-pint 
of  the  best  brandy,  and  one  gill  of  strawberry  syrup  to- 
gether. Stand  the  cake  in  a  stone  butter-pot,  a  little  larger 
than  the  cake,  pour  over  the  brandy  mixture,  paste  the  top 
of  the  pot  over  with  paper,  put  on  the  cover,  and  stand  in 
a  cool  place  one  month.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  remove 
the  paper,  turn  the  cake,  paste  the  top  over  again  with 
paper,  put  on"  the  lid,  and  let  stand  another  month,  and  it 
is  ready  for  use. 

This  cake  is  troublesome,  but  well  repays  one  for  the 
trouble. 

This  will  make  a  seven-pound  cake. 


492  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

COFFEE  FRUIT  CAKE 

i  cup  of  butter  i  cup  of  molasses 

1  cup  of  brown  sugar  3  cups  of  flour 

2  pounds  of  raisins  ^  pound  of  currants 
Y^  pound  of  citron  3  large  teaspoonfuls  of 

i  large  teaspoonful  of  cloves  cinnamon 

i  large  teaspoonful  of  i  large    teaspoonful  of 

allspice  grated  nutmeg 

i  egg  i  teaspoonful  of  baking- 

Y^  pint  of  warm  black  coffee  soda 

Prepare  and  make  the  same  as  Fruit  Cake,  No.  i. 
LAYER    CAKE 

Y^  pound  of  butter  ^  pound  of  sugar 

5  eggs  2  ounces  of  corn-starch 

6  ounces  of  flour  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
^  teaspoonful  of  mace  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry 

i  teaspoon fui  of  baking-powder 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream;  add  the  sugar  gradually,  beating 
all  the  while,  then  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  then  the  well- 
beaten  whites,  then  the  flour,  corn-starch  and  baking- 
powder  ;  beat  well ;  add  the  flavorings,  mix  well.  Grease 
three  deep  jelly-tins,  pour  in  the  cake,  and  bake  in  a  mod- 
erately quick  oven  fifteen  minutes.  When  done,  remove 
carefully  from  the  pans,  and  stand  them  on  a  towel  for  a 
few  minutes  to  cool. 

APRICOT  LAYER  CAKE 

Make  the  cake  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe. 

Pare  the  apricots,  cut  them  in  thin  slices.  Beat  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  lightly,  add,  gradually,  four  tablespoon- 
fuls of  powdered  sugar,  and  then  beat  vigorously  until 
stiff  enough  to  stand  alone.  Put  a  layer  of  this  over  the 
top  of  one  cake,  then  a  layer  of  sliced  apricots,  stand 
another  cake  on  top  of  this.  Put  the  remainder  of  the 
white  filling  over  the  top  of  this  cake,  then  another  layer 


FANCY   CAKES  493 

of  apricots.  Now  place  the  remaining  cake  on  top  of  this, 
press  down  lightly,  dust  the  top  over  with  powdered  sugar, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Preserved  or  canned  apricots  may  be  used  in  the  place 
of  fresh  fruit. 

CHOCOLATE  LAYER  CAKE 

Make  Layer  Cake  (see  recipe).  Put  four  ounces  of  choco- 
late into  a  bowl,  and  stand  it  over  boiling  water  until 
melted.  Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  until  frothy;  add, 
gradually,  four  tablespoon fuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and  beat 
until  stiff  enough  to  stand  alone ;  then  add  the  chocolate 
gradually,  beating  all  the  while.  Add  a  teaspoon ful  of 
vanilla.  Put  one-half  of  the  mixture  over  the  top  of  one 
cake,  stand  another  cake  on  top  of  this,  then  the  re- 
mainder of  the  chocolate  filling  on  the  top  of  that,  and 
then  the  remaining  cake  on  top  the  filling;  cover' this  with 
Chocolate  Icing,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

COCOANUT  LAYER  CAKE 

Make  Layer  Cake  (see  recipe).  Beat  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  until  frothy,  then  add  gradually  four  tablespoon  fuls  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  beat  until  stiff.  Spread  a  layer  of  this 
over  the  top  of  one  cake,  then  sprinkle  heavily  with  grated 
cocoanut,  then  put  another  cake  on  the  top  of  this,  spread 
this  the  same  as  before,  then  put  another  cake  on  top,  and 
cover  the  top  the  same,  sprinkling  heavily  with  grated 
cocoanut,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

ICE  CREAM  CAKE 

Make  Layer  Cake,  and  fill  with  the  whites  of  two  eggs 
and  four  tablespoon  fuls  of  powdered  sugar  beaten  to  a 
stiff  froth,  flavoring  according  to  taste. 


494  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

JELLY  LAYER    CAKE 

Make  a  Layer  Cake;  while  hot,  spread  with  any  kind  of 
tart  jelly. 

PEACH  LAYER  CAKE 
Made  precisely  the  same  as  Apricot  Layer  Cake. 

RASPBERRY  LAYER  CAKE 

Make  the  same  as  Apricot  Layer  Cake,  using  large  red  rasp- 
berries instead  of  apricots. 

Strawberry  Layer  Cake  is  made  in  the  same  manner. 

WHITE  MOUNTAIN  CAKE 

« 

1 1  ounces  of  powdered  sugar       6  ounces  of  butter 
5  eggs  y^  pint  of  milk 

i  gill  of  sherry  ^  teaspoonful  of  powdered 

3  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  mace 

baking-powder  3  ounces  of  corn-starch 

YV  pound  of  flour  Juice  and  the  rind  of  a 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  lemon 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  yolks, 
and  beat  the  whole  until  very,  very  light;  add  the  vanilla, 
lemon  and  mace.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  add 
them  and  the  milk  gradually  and  alternately  to  the  batter. 
Sift  the  corn-starch,  baking-powder,  and  flour  together,  and 
add  gradually  to  the  mixture,  beating  thoroughly  and 
quickly  all  the  while;  then  pour  into  greased  jelly-tins, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

THE    FILLING 

Whites  of  two  eggs          ^  pound  of  powdered  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla      i  gill  of  water 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  until  it  forms  a  heavy 

thread  when  dropped  from  a  spoon.      Beat  the  whites  of 

the  eggs  until  very  stiff,  then  stir  in  at  once,  gradually,  the 


FANCY   CAKES  495 

boiling  syrup,  beating  quickly  all  the  while.  Beat  until 
cold  and  thick;  add  the  vanilla.  When  the  cakes  are  done 
and  cold,  spread  a  layer  of  the  filling  on  the  top  of  one 
cake,  place  another  cake  on  top  of  it,  then  another  layer 
of  the  filling,  then  another  layer  of  cake;  now  spread 
this  with  the  remainder  of  the  filling,  and  put  the  remain- 
ing cake  on  top;  dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and  it  is  ready 
for  use. 

RIBBON  CAKE 

y2  cup  of  butter 

2  cups  of  sugar 
4  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  of  baking-powder 
i  cup  of  washed  currants 
i  cup  of  milk 

3  cups  of  flour 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
i  tablespoonful  of  cinnamon 
i^  cup  of  chopped  citron 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream ;  add  the  sugar  and  then  the 
yolks,  and  beat  thoroughly.  Now  add  flavoring  and  milk, 
then  the  flour.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir 
them  carefully  into  the  other  ingredients;  add  the  baking- 
powder,  and  stir  just  enough  to  mix.  Now  take  out  one- 
third  of  the  mixture,  and  add  to  it  the  cinnamon,  currants, 
and  chopped  citron.  Grease  three  sheet  pans  of  the  same 
size,  put  the  fruit  mixture  into  one,  and  the  remaining  two- 
thirds  in  the  other  two  pans.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
a  half-hour.  When  done,  take  from  the  pans.  Spread  one 
light  cake  with  a  layer  of  soft  icing,  then  place  the  dark 
cake  on  this,  and  spread  it  with  icing,  then  place  the  other 
light  cake  on  this,  cover  the  whole  with  a  piece  of  paper, 
and  then  with  a  tin  sheet,  on  which  place  two  light  weights. 
Let  stand  one  hour,  and  then  remove  the  weights. 


496  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

CREAM    SPONGE  CAKE 

6  eggs 

Their  weight  in  sugar,  and  half  their  weight  in  flour 
Put  the  eggs  on  one  side  of  the  scale  and  balance  with  the 
sugar.  Turn  the  sugar  into  a  bowl,  remove  three  eggs  and 
balance  the  remaining  three  with  flour.  Now  break  and 
separate  the  eggs  carefully.  Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  until 
very,  very  light,  then  add  the  whites,  which  have  been 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  mix  carefully,  and  slowly  sift  in 
the  flour.  Put  a  quarter-teaspoon  ful  of  baking-soda  into  a 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  stir  until  dissolved,  and  stir 
quickly  into  the  cake.  Mix  thoroughly  and  carefully,  turn 
into  a  well-greased  large  shallow  pan,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  fifteen  minutes.  Have  ready 

THE    FILLING 

YZ  pint  of  milk 

i^  tablespoon  mis  of  corn-starch 
2  tablespoon fuls  of  sugar 
Grated  rind  of  half  an  orange 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  juice 
Yolks  of  3  eggs 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  corn- 
starch,  sugar,  and  eggs  together  until  light,  then  stir  into  the 
boiling  milk,  and  stir  until  it  thickens;  take  from  the  fire, 
and  add  the  juice  and  rind  of  the  orange.  Stand  away  to 
cool.  This  should  be  made  before  the  cake.  When  the 
cake  is  done,  turn  it  carefully  from  the  pan,  bottom  up- 
wards, and  spread  it,  while  warm,  with  the  filling.  Cut 
the  cake  in  halves,  and  fold  the  bottoms  together,  thus 
having  two  layers  of  cake  with  a  thick  layer  of  filling  be- 
tween. Cover  the  top  with  Orange  Icing. 

APEES     (Ice  Cream  and  Cakes) 

i  pound  of  butter         i  pound  of  sugar 
i^  pounds  of  flour          i  gill  of  milk 
Cream  the  butter  and  sugar ;  sift  in  the  flour,  then  the  milk, 


FAXCY   CAKES  4<)7 

and  stir  it  to  a  dough  ;  trim  it  out  on  the  moulding-board, 
and  work  to  a  fine  dough  again.  Roll  into  sheets,  as  thick 
as  a  dollar  piece,  cut  into  small  cakes,  lay  them  on  tins, 
and  bake  in  a  cool  oven. 


PLAIN    COOKIES 

i  cup  of  sugar  i  teaspoon ful  of  baking- 

y<z  nutmeg,  grated  powder 

y<2,  pint  of  milk  Sufficient  flour  to  make  a 

YZ  cup  of  butter  dough 

2  eggs 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream;  add  the  sugar  and  beat  again. 
Beat  the  eggs  all  together  until  light,  add  them  to  the  but- 
ter and  sugar ;  add  the  milk,  nutmeg,  baking-powder,  and 
flour;  mix  well.  Roll  out,  cut  with  a  round  cutter,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  a  light  brown. 


GINGER  COOKIES     (Miss  Shourds) 

i  cup  of  molasses 
i  cup  of  strong  boiling  coffee 
i  tablespoonful  of  ginger 
i  cup  of  brown  sugar 
1/2  cup  of  lard 
Y<2,  cup  of  butter 
i  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 
i  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda 

Mix  the  butter  and  lard  together.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  a 
tablespoonful  of  boiling  water,  then  stir  it  into  the  molas- 
ses, which  add  to  the  butter  and  lard;  ad-1  the  spices,  and 
mix  all  well  together.  Pour  over  the  boiling  coffee,  and 
add  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Then  roll  out 
about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  cut  with  a 
round  cutter,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven  about 
fifteen  minutes. 


498  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

JUMBLES        No.  i 

j^  pound  of  butter  y,  pound  of  powdered  sugar 

9  ounces  of  flour  2  tablespoon fuls  of  sherry 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla          3  eggs 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream ;  add  the  sugar  gradually,  beat- 
ing until  very  light.  Now  beat  the  eggs  all  together,  add 
to  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  sherry,  the  vanilla,  and  last, 
the  flour,  sifted.  Beat  the  whole  well.  Put  the  mixture  into 
a  pastry-bag,  and  press  it  through  the  tube  in  small  round 
cakes  on  the  bottom  of  a  baking-pan  lightly  greased.  If 
you  have  no  pastry-bag,  you  may  drop  by  spoonfuls.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  edges  are  a  delicate  brown. 

JUMBLES        No.  2 

y<z  pound  of  butter  yz  pound  of  sugar 

eggs  y^  pound  of  flour 

nutmeg,  grated  i  tablespoonful  of  rose-water 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream ;  add  the  eggs  well- 
beaten,  then  the  rose-water  and  nutmeg,  then  the  flour. 
Dust  the  baking-board  with  granulated  sugar,  instead  of 
flour ;  roll  out  the  mixture,  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness^  cut  with  a  round  cutter ;  take  the  centres  out  with 
a  smaller  cutter,  thus  forming  rings.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  until  a  light  brown. 

SAND  TARTS 

i  pound  of  granulated  sugar     y2  pound  of  butter 
Yolks  of  three  eggs  Whites  of  two  eggs 

Flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  paste 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  together ;  add  the  yolks  beaten 
to  a  cream,  then  the  whites  well  beaten;  mix  all  well  to- 
gether, and  add  the  flour.  Roll  out  on  a  baking-board, 
cut  with  a  round  cutter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
a  light  brown. 


FANCY   CAKES  499 

LEMON    WAFERS 

*^  pound  of  butter  Juice  and  rind  of  two  lemons 

*2  pound  of  powdered  sugar    Flour   sufficient   to   make  a 
i  nutmeg,  grated  stiff  batter 

6  eggs 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream  ;  add  the  sugar  gradually.  Beat 
the  eggs,  without  separating,  until  creamy,  then  add  them  to 
the  butter  and  sugar;  beat  well;  then  add  the  juice  and 
rind  of  the  lemon,  the  nutmeg  and  the  flour.  Beat  all 
until  smooth  and  light.  Heat  the  wafer  tongs  over  a  clear 
fire,  brush  them  lightly  with  melted  butter,  put  in  two 
tablespoon fuls  of  the  mixture,  close  the  tongs,  turn  them 
over  a  clear  fire  until  the  cake  is  a  light  brown.  When 
done,  take  out  carefully,  dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and 
roll  around  a  smooth  stick,  which  remove  carefully  when 
cold.  If  you  have  no  tongs,  line  fiat  pans  with  buttered 
paper,  and  drop  the  mixture  in  by  spoonfuls ;  spread  it  out 
very  thin,  and  bake  until  a  light  brown.  These  may  be 
filled  with  whipped  cream  or  meringue,  or  served  without 
either. 

SHREWSBURY  CAKES 

i  pound  of  butter  i  pound  of  sugar 

4  eggs  y^  pound  dried  currants 

i  nutmeg,  grated  114  pounds  of  flour 
Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream ;  add  the  sugar  gradually,  then 
the  flour  and  nutmeg,  then  the  currants,  washed  and  dried. 
Now  moisten  with  the  eggs  well  beaten.  If  the  flour  is 
very  heavy  and  the  mixture  very  dry,  add  another  egg, 
knead  well,  roll  the  paste  out  very  thin,  cut  with  a  round 
cutter  about  the  size  of  a  saucer,  and  pinch  the  cakes  with 
the  thumb  and  finger  around  the  edge.  This  gives  them 
a  scalloped  form.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  a  nice 
brown. 


500  PHILADELPHIA     COOK   BOOK 

SCOTCH    CAKES 

i  pound  of  flour  i  pound  of  sugar 

y^  pound  of  butter  3  eggs 

i  tablespoon ful  of  cinnamon 

Mix  the  flour  and  butter,  and  rub  well  with  the  hands,  then 
add  the  sugar,  then  the  eggs  well  beaten,  then  the  cinnamon. 
Mix  all  well  together,  roll  out  into  a  thin  sheet,  cut  with  a 
large  round  cutter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  a 
light  brown. 

JACKSON  SNAPS 

1  cup  of  butter  5  cups  of  flour 

2  cups  of  sugar  i  cup  of  water 

1  egg  Juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon 
Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  the  sugar  gradually ;  then 
add  the  egg  and  water  ;  beat  again,  then  add  the  flour ; 
mix  well,  roll  out,  cut  with  a  round  cutter,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  a  light  brown. 

These,  like  ginger  cakes,  will  keep  a  long  while  if  shut 
in  a  tin  box. 

GINGER  SNAPS 

2  pounds  of  flour          i  large  tablespoonful  of  ginger 
i  pint  of  molasses       ^  pound  jof  brown  sugar 

A  dash  of  cayenne  y2  pound  of  butter  or  lard 
Rub  the  butter  or  lard  thoroughly  into  the  flour,  then  add  the 
sugar,  then  the  ginger  and  cayenne;  mix  well,  and  moisten 
with  the  molasses.  Knead  and  roll  out  very  thin,  cut  with 
a  small,  round  cutter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
a  light  brown. 

These  are  very  dry  and  hard  to  roll,  but,  if  carefully 
mixed  and  handled,  are  delicious. 

DOMINOES 

Make  Plain  Cup  Cake  batter,  and  pour  it  into  greased 
shallow  pans,  to  the  depth  of  a  half-inch.  Bake  in  a 


FANCY   CAKES  501 

moderate  oven  about  ten  minutes.  When  done,  turn  out 
on  a  cloth  to  cool.  When  cold,  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  the 
cake  in  oblong  pieces,  the  shape  of  a  domino,  frost  the  top 
and  sides  with  white  icing,  and  stand  aside  to  harden. 
When  the  frosting  is  hard,  dip  a  small  camel' s-hair  brush 
in  chocolate  icing,  and  draw  lines  and  make  the  dots  of 
the  domino. 

*% 
CREAM  PUFFS 

y,  pint  of  water  2  ounces  of  butter 

4  ounces  of  flour  4  eggs 

Put  the  water  and  butter  on  to  boil,  and,  as  soon  as  it  boils, 
turn  in  the  flour  and  stir  quickly  over  the  fire  until  it  sticks 
together,  forming  a  ball,  which  leaves  the  pan.  Stand 
away  to  cool.  When  cool,  add  one  egg  at  a  time,  beating 
all  the  while.  After  adding  the  last  egg,  beat  vigorously 
for  five  minutes.  Stand  in  a  warm  place  for  a  half-hour, 
stirring  occasionally  ;  then  drop  by  tablespoon fuls  on  but- 
tered tins,  leaving  a  space  of  two  inches  between  each  puff. 
Bake  in  a  quick  oven  about  twenty  minutes.  Try  by 
picking  them  up.  If  perfectly  light,  they  are  done.  As 
they  burn  quickly,  watch  carefully.  When  cold,  make  an 
opening  in  one  side,  about  the  middle  of  the  puff,  and  fill 
with  the  following  : — 

THE    FILLING 

y<2,  pint  of  milk       i  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch 
4  eggs  4  tablespoon  fuls  of  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Beat  the  eggs, 
without  separating,  and  the  sugar  together  until  light,  add 
to  them  the  corn-starch,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  milk. 
Stir  over  the  fire  until  rather  thick,  then  add  the  vanilla, 
and  stand  away  to  cool. 


502  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

CHOCOLATE   ECLAIRS 

Prepare  the  batter  the  same  as  for  Cream  Puffs.  Put  it  into 
a  pastry-bag,  and  press  it  out  upon  well-buttered  tins.  By 
pressing  the  bag  firmly,  and  drawing  it  very  slowly  towards 
you  while  squeezing,  you  will  make  the  eclairs  of  a  rope- 
like  shape.  They  should  be  about  five  inches  long.  Allow 
two  inches  space  between  each  eclair.  Bake  in  a  quick 
oven  twenty  n^nutes,  or  until  thoroughly  done.  If  prop- 
erly baked,  the  inside  will  be  hollow,  with  a  delicate,  tender 
crust  outside.  When  cold,  fill  with  the  same  Cream  Puff 
Filling. 

THE    ICING 

Melt  two  ounces  of  chocolate,  then  add  four  tablespoon fuls 
of  powdered  sugar,  and  stir  until  it  forms  a  paste.  Dip 
the  bottom  of  each  eclair  into  the  icing,  and  stand  it  away 
to  dry. 

Eclairs  may  be  filled  with  whipped  cream  or  preserved 
fruits,  and  iced  with  Orange  Icing. 

KISSES 

Whites  of  six  eggs 
12  ounces  of  powdered  sugar 

i  tablespoonful  of  vanilla-sugar 

Beat  the  whites  with  a  wire  egg-whip  until  frothy,  then  add 
gradually,  the  sugar,  beating  continuously  until  the  whites 
are  stiff  enough  to  cut  with  a  knife.  Dip  a  tablespoon  into 
cold  water,  fill  it  with  the  mixture,  and  drop  it  on  a  sheet 
of  buttered  paper.  Place  the  paper  on  baking-tins,  sift 
quickly  and  lightly  with  powdered  sugar,  blow  off  all  that 
will  not  stick,  and  put  immediately  into  a  quick  oven. 
Watch  constantly  that  they  do  not  burn.  When  firm  to 
the  touch,  take  them  from  the  oven,  remove  them  carefully 
from  the  paper,  scoop  out  the  soft  portion  and  return  the 
shells  to  a  very  slow  oven  to  dry.  These  may  be  filled  with 
whipped  cream  or  ice  cream,  and  two  put  together. 


FANCY   CAKES  503 

The  dry  shells  will  keep  some  time  and  may  be  filled 
when  ready  to  use. 

Or,  drop  the  mixture  by  small  spoonfuls  on  buttered 
paper,  dust  with  sugar,  blow  off  all  that  does  not  stick, 
place  the  paper  on  baking-sheets,  put  in  a  quick 'oven  until 
a  light  fawn-color ;  then  place  them  in  a  cool  oven  for  two 
hours  to  dry.  When  dry,  carefully  remove  the  kisses  from 
the  paper,  brush  the  bottom  lightly  with^Jie  white  of  egg, 
stick  two  together,  and  put  away  to. dry. 

LADY    FINGERS 

Make  Sponge  Cake  batter,  turn  it  into  a  pastry-bag  with  a 
No.  i  tube  in  the  end,  and  squeeze  it  out  the  shape  of  lady 
fingers.  Dredge  with  powdered  sugar,  and  put  in  a  very 
moderate  oven  to  bake.  They  must  not  spread  or  swell. 
If  they  spread,  the  oven  is  too  cool ;  if  they  swell,  the 
oven  is  too  hot.  When  done,  remove  them  carefully  from 
the  pan,  put  the  two  flat  sides  together,  and  lay  them  on  a 
sieve  to  cool. 

There  are  pans  indented  the  shape  of  lady  fingers, 
which  are  less  troublesome  than  using  the  pastry-bag. 

PLUNKETS 

4  eggs 

Weight  of  eggs  in  powdered  sugar 

Weight  of  eggs  in  butter 

Weight  of  eggs  in  rice  flour 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  or  juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon 
Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  sugar  gradually, 
beating  all  the  while ;  then  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  beat 
again,  then  add  the  whites  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  then, 
gradually,  the  rice  flour.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  or 
the  juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon.  Now  beat  until  fine  and 
light,  pour  into  greased  small  scalloped  tins  (patty-pans) 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  twenty  minutes. 


504  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  ROOK 

ICINGS  OR  FROSTINGS 

PLAIN    ICING 

Whites  of  two  eggs 
•       i  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice 

YZ  pound  of  powdered  sugar 

Place  the  eggs  in  a  refrigerator  or  some  very  cold  place  one 
hour  before  using.  Break  them  carefully  and  beat  the 
whites  until  frotfTy,  then  sift  the  sugar  in  gradually,  beating 
all  the  while;  add  the  lemon  juice,  and  continue  the  beat- 
ing until  the  icing  is  fine  and  white,  and  stiff  enough  to 
stand  alone.  Keep  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted.  Spread 
with  a  knife  dipped  in  ice-water.  If  ornaments  are  used, 
they  must  be  placed  on  the  cake  while  the  ice  is  still  moist. 
This  may  be  varied  by  adding  different  flavorings,  such  as 
strawberry,  pineapple,  rose,  vanilla,  etc. 

Strawberry  icing  should  always  be  colored  with  a  few 
drops  of  cochineal. 

CHOCOLATE    ICING 

^  pound  of  grated  chocolate 

%  pound  of  powdered  sugar 

Melt  $he  chocolate  over  boiling  water,  add  the  sugar,  and 
stir  until  smooth.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  it  is 
ready  to  use. 

ORANGE    ICING 

YI  pound  of  powdered  sugar 
i  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water 
Grated  rind  of  one  orange 
Sufficient  orange  juice  to  moisten 

Put  the  sugar  in  a  bowl,  add  the  rind  and  then  the  water 
and  juice.  The  icing  should  be  very  stiff,  and  used  imme- 
diately. 


FANCY   CAKES  505 

BOILED    ICING 

i  cup  of  granulated  sugar       ^  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 

White  of  one  egg  tartar 

y<2.  cup  of  boiling  water 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  until  it  spins  a  heavy 
thread.  Beat  the  egg  to  a  stiff  froth  ;  add  the  cream  of 
tartar,  and  then  the  syrup,  beating  all  the  while.  Beat 
until  cold  and  thick.  Flavor. 

GELATINE    ICING 

Put  one  even  tablespoon ful  of  gelatine  into  a  bowl,  cover 
it  with  one  tablespoonful  of  cold  water,  let  it  soak  half  an 
hour ;  then  add  two  tablespoon fuls  of  boiling  water,  stir 
until  dissolved,  then  add  pulverized  sugar  to  make  the  mix- 
ture a  proper  consistency  to  spread.  Flavor  to  taste.  Let 
the  cake  cool,  spread  the  icing  quickly  over  it,  and  stand 
in  a  cool  place  to  dry. 


506  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


ADDITIONAL   RECIPES  507 


508  PHILADELPHIA     COOK    BOOK 


CANDIES 


CHOCOLATE    CARAMELS         No.  I 

Y^  pound  of  chocolate  i  pound  of  brown  sugar 

2  tablespoon fu Is  of  molasses      Butter  the  size  of  an  egg 
y&  cup  of  milk  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Put  the  whole  into  a  granite  or  copper  saucepan  ;  let  it  heat 
slowly,  and  stir  until  thoroughly  dissolved.  Then  boil 
until  it  hardens.  Try  by  dropping  a  few  drops  in  a  cup  of 
cold  water ;  if  it  hardens  quickly,  it  is  done.  Turn  into 
a  greased  square  pan,  and,  when  partly  cool,  mark  into 
squares  with  a  dull  knife.  Stand  in  a  cool,  dry  place  to 
harden. 

CHOCOLATE    CARAMELS         No.  2     (Mrs.  Mustin) 

1^2  pounds  of  sugar  (confectioners'  A) 

3  ounces  of  chocolate 
Y^  pint  of  cream 
YZ  teaspoonful  of  lemon -juice 
Make  and  finish  the  same  as  in  preceding  recipe. 

TAFFY 

l/2  pint  of  water  ^  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice 

3  ounces  of  butter  2  teaspoon  fuls  of  vanilla 

il/z  pounds  of  sugar  (confectioners'  A) 
Stir  the  water  and  sugar  over  the  fire  until  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved, then  boil  until  it  arrives  at  the  ball  stage ;  that  is, 

(509) 


510  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

when  small  quantity  is  cooled  in  water  and  rolled  between 
the  thumb  and  finger,  it  forms  a  soft  ball.  Now  add  the 
butter  and  lemon  juice  and  boil  to  the  "crack,"  that  is,  it 
hardens  quickly  when  dropped  into  cold  water,  and  will 
not  stick  to  the  teeth.  Add  the  vanilla,  and  turn  out  in 
greased  shallow  pans  to  cool. 

MOLASSES    CANDY 

i  cup  of  New  Orleans  molasses    i  cup  of  brown  sugar 
i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  i  ounce  of  melted  butter 

Mix  all  together,  and  boil  without  stirring  until  it  hardens 
when  dropped  in  cold  water ;  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
baking  soda,  and  pour  into  buttered  tins. 

Or,  when  cool,  pull  and  cut  into  sticks.  While  pull- 
ing, brush  the  hands  with  butter  or  moisten  them  with  ice- 
water. 

WALNUT    MOLASSES    CANDY 

Make  a  plain  molasses  candy,  and,  when  done,  grease  deep 
square  pans  with  butter,  fill  nearly  full  with  walnut  kernels, 
pour  the  molasses  candy  over  them,  and  stand  away  to  cool. 

PEANUT    MOLASSES    CANDY 

Peanut  Molasses  Candy  is  made  precisely  the  same  as  Wal- 
nut Molasses  Candy. 

CREAM    CANDY 

i  pound  of  granulated  sugar 

i  tablespoonful  of  gum-aratfic  water 
YZ  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar 

i  cup  of  water 

i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  except  the  vanilla,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  ;  then  boil  without  stirring 
until  it  hardens  when  dropped  in  cold  water.  It  must  not 
be  brittle.  When  done,  turn  out  on  a  greased  plate  or 


CAND-IES  511 

marble  slab ;  pour  over  it  the  vanilla ;  when  nearly  cold, 
begin  to  pull,  and  pull  continuously  until  it  is  perfectly 
white.  Cut  it  into  sticks  or  pieces  as  soon  as  you  are  done 
pulling,  or  it  may  be  braided  ;  then  put  it  in  a  tureen,  cover 
and  let  stand  two  hours,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

ROSE  CREAM  CANDY 

Make  same  as  preceding  recipe,  add  a  half-teaspoon ful  of 
cochineal,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  rose  water  instead  of  the 
vanilla. 

CREAM  CHOCOLATES 

Put  the  white  of  one  egg  and  an  equal  quantity  of  cold 
water  into  a  bowl ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  beat 
until  frothy ;  add  sufficient  confectioners'  xxx  sugar  to 
make  a  stiff  paste  that  you  can  form  into  balls  (this  will 
take  about  a  pound  and  a  quarter).  Work  until  smooth, 
form  into  small  balls  the  size  of  a  cream  chocolate, 
stand  on  greased  paper,  and  put  in  a  cool,  dry  place  to 
harden  (about  two  hours).  Put  a  half-pound  of  chocolate 
into  a  small,  bright,  tin  basin,  and  stand  it  over  the  tea- 
kettle or  boiling  water  to  melt,  then  stand  it  in  a  basin  of 
boiling  water  to  prevent  its  cooling  while  you  dip  the 
creams.  Place  one  ball  on  the  end  of  a  fork,  dip  it  down 
into  the  melted  chocolate,  see  that  it  is  thoroughly  covered, 
lift  it  up,  drain,  scrape  off  the  fork  on  the  side  of  the  basin, 
then  slide  the  cream  chocolate  back  on  the  greased  paper, 
and  so  continue  until  all  are  dipped.  Stand  in  a  cool  place 
over  night,  and  they  are  ready  to  use. 

These  are   very  little  trouble,  and,  if  made  carefully, 
are  delicious. 

CREAM  DATES 

Remove  the  stones  from  the  large  dates,  make  the  cream  as 
directed  in  preceding  recipe.  Roll  a  tiny  bit  into  a  long 


512  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

roll,  put  it  in  the  date  where  you  removed  the  stone,  press 
the  two  halves  together,  so  that  the  white  cream  will  show 
between.  Roll  the  whole  in  granulated  sugar,  and  stand 
away  to  harden. 

CREAM    CHERRIES 
Make  precisely  the  same  as  Cream  Dates. 

NOUGAT         No.  i     (Blot) 

Throw  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  into  boiling  water  for 
five  minutes ;  skin  them  well ;  and,  when  cool,  cut  them  in 
four  or  five  pieces  lengthwise ;  then  melt  a  pound  of  fine 
white  sugar  with  two  tablespoon fuls  of  water,  in  a  copper 
or  crockery  pot,  on  a  good  fire,  stirring  all  the  time  with  a 
wooden  spoon.  When  well  melted,  put  the  almonds  in  ; 
keep  stirring  about  five  minutes  longer,  take  from  the  fire, 
add  a  little  of  the  rind  of  a  lemon  well  grated.  Oil  a 
plain  mould,  put  it  on  the  corner  of  the  range  in  a  warm 
but  not  too  hot  place  ;  put  the  almonds  and  sugar  in  the 
mould,  pressing  them  to  the  side  and  bottom  of  the  mould 
with  a  lemon  cut  in  halves,  and  take  off  when  of  a  brown 
color.  Turn  on  a  plate,  remove  the  mould,  and  serve. 

NOUGAT         No.  2 

Grease  a  square,  shallow  pan  well  with  butter.  Fill  with 
hickory-nut  kernels,  Brazilian  nuts  cut  in  slices,  almonds, 
cocoanut  cut  in  thin  strips,  dates  and  a  few  bits  of  candied 
orange  peel.  Boil  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  one  cup  of 
water  together  without  stirring  (after  the  sugar  melts)  until 
it  hardens  and  becomes  brittle  when  dropped  in  cold  water; 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  pour  into  the 
pans  over  the  filling.  When  nearly  cold,  mark  out  in  nar- 
row strips  with  a  knife. 


FRUITS 


Fruit  should  be  served  as  fresh  as  possible,  the  large  fruits 
cold.  The  small  acid  fruits  are  rendered  more  acid  by 
being  chilled.  Fresh,  ripe  fruit  is  particularly  wholesome 
if  taken  in  the  early  part  of  the  day.  Liebig  says : 
"Besides  contributing  a  large  proportion  of  sugar,  mucil- 
age, and  other  nutritive  compounds  in  the  form  of  food, 
they  contain  such  a  fine  combination  of  vegetable  acids, 
attractive  substances,  and  aromatic  principles,  with  the 
nutritive  matter,  as  to  act  powerfully  in  the  capacity  of 
refrigerants,  tonics,  and  antiseptics,  and  when  freely  used 
at  the  season  of  ripeness,  by  rural  laborers  and  others,  they 
prevent  debility,  strengthen  digestion,  correct  the  putrefac- 
tive tendency  of  nitrogenous  food,  avert  scurvy,  and  prob- 
ably maintain  and  strengthen  the  power  of  productive 
labor." 

APPLES 

For  the  table,  select  those  of  a  spicy  flavor ;  wipe  them 
clean  and  polish  with  a  soft  towel.  Serve  in  a  fruit  dish  or 
a  small,  pretty  basket.  Use  only  a  silver  knife  in  cutting. 

BANANAS 

Bananas  should  be  served  whole,  the  large,  red  and  lady 

fingers  mixed, 

(513) 


514  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

CURRANTS 

The  large  cherry  and  the  white  currants  may  be  served 
together.  Select  large  clusters,  rinse  them  by  dipping  in 
and  out  of  cold  water,  then  place  on  a  sieve  to  drain.  Ar- 
range them  on  a  pretty  dish,  and  serve  in  saucers  around  a 
small  pyramid  of  powdered  sugar.  Take  the  stem  between 
the  thumb  and  finger,  dip  the  fruit  lightly  in  the  powdered 
sugar,  and  eat  from  the  stem. 

They  may  also  be  stemmed  and  mixed  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  raspberries. 

GRAPES 

Grapes  should  be  rinsed  in  cold  water,  drained  on  a  sieve, 
and  then  arranged  in  a  pretty  basket;  fruit  scissors  should 
accompany  the  basket,  to  divide  the  clusters. 

ORANGES 

Oranges  may  be  served  whole,  cut  in  halves  crosswise,  and 
eaten  with  a  spoon. 

Or,  peeled,  cut  in  small  pieces,  rejecting  the  seeds. 
Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar,  let  stand  an  hour,  and  serve. 

PEACHES 

Pick  out  the  finest,  large,  yellow  peaches.  Rub  the  wool 
off  carefully,  handling  as  little  as  possible.  Serve  in  a 
pretty  basket  with  peach  or  rose  leaves  around  the  basket. 

Or,  pare  and  slice,  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar,  and 
serve  immediately  (or  they  will  turn  dark),  with  thick 
cream. 

PEARS 

Pears  may  be  served  the  same  as  Apples. 

PINEAPPLE 

Pare,  remove  the  eyes,  and  pick  the  pineapple  in  small 
pieces  with  a  silver  fork,  stripping  it  from  the  core.  Never 


FRUITS  515 

use  a  knife  to  cut  the  pineapple  as  it  destroys  the  flavor. 
Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar.  Stand  in  a  cold  place  one 
hour  before  serving. 

POMEGRANATES 

Remove  the  outside  skin  and  carefully  take  out  the  seeds, 
rejecting  every  particle  of  the  thin  brown  skin  that  separates 
the  sections.  Heap  the  seeds  on  a  pretty  dish,  mix  with 
them  finely-chopped  ice,  and  serve. 

STRAWBERRIES,  RASPBERRIES  and  BLACKBERRIES 

Pick  them  carefully,  without  mashing,  only  a  few  moments 
before  you  wish  to  serve  them.  Heap  them  in  a  glass  dish, 
and  send  around  powdered  sugar  and  cream  with  them. 
Allow  each  guest  to  sugar  his  own. 

Never  wash  any  kind  of  berries,  as  it  destroys  their 
flavor. 

Strawberries  for  breakfast  may  be  served  with  their 
stems  on,  the  same  as  Currants. 

WATERMELON 

A  watermelon  should  be  thoroughly  chilled  before  serving; 
then  cut  it  into  halves.  Cut  a  thin  slice  off  each  end  to 
make  it  stand  firmly  on  the  platter.  Scoop  out  in  egg- 
shaped  pieces  with  a  tablespoon,  and  serve. 

CANTALOUPE 

Cut  in  halves,  remove  the  seeds.  Serve  one-half  to  each 
guest.  Eat  with  a  spoon.  Cantaloupes  should  be  served 
very  cold. 

BAKED   APPLES 

Wipe  sweet  apples  perfectly  clean,  and  remove  the  cores 
without  paring,  stand  them  on  an  earthen  baking-dish,  and 


516  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  tender.  Serve  cold  with 
sugar  and  cream. 

Or,  pour  over  them  drawn  butter,  flavored  and  sweet- 
ened. 

STEWED  APPLES 

Pare  tart  apples,  cut  them  into  quarters  and  remove  the 
cores;  put  them  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  strew  with 
sugar,  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  few  bits  of  the 
yellow  rind;  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  simmer  gently 
until  •  tender.  Dish  carefully  without  breaking,  and  serve 
cold. 

CODDLED  APPLES 

Pare  tart  apples  of  uniform  size ;  remove  the  cores  without 
breaking  the  apples.  Stand  them  in  the  bottom  of  a  por- 
celain-lined kettle,  strew  thickly  with  sugar,  cover  the  bot- 
tom of  the  kettle  with  boiling  water,  put  on  the  lid,  and 
allow  the  apples  to  steam  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove 
until  tender.  Dish  carefully  without  breaking;  pour  the 
syrup  over  them,  and  stand  away  to  cool. 

BLACKBERRY  FLUMMERY 

i  cup  of  blackberries         2  even  tablespoon fuls  of 
i  pint  of  water  corn-starch 

Sugar  to  taste 

Put  the  blackberries  and  water  on  to  boil.  Boil  slowly  ten 
minutes  without  stirring.  Moisten  the  corn-starch  in  a 
little  cold  water,  stir  it  into  the  boiling  blackberries,  stir 
carefully  until  it  thickens,  take  from  the  fire,  add  the  sugar, 
and  turn  out  to  cool.  Serve  cold,  with  sugar  and  cream. 

BLACKBERRY  MUSH 

Make  the  same  as  Flummery,  using  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
corn -starch  instead  of  two. 


FRUITS  517 

STEWED  CRANBERRIES 

Wash  one  quart  of  cranberries,  put  them  in  a  porcelain- 
lined  kettle,  add  one  pint  of  water,  cover  the  kettle,  and 
stew  ten  minutes;  add  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  stand  on 
the  back  part  of  the  stove  where  it  will  not  boil,  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  turn  out  to  cool. 

STEWED  GOOSEBERRIES 

Stem  and  top  one  quart  of  berries,  and  cook  the  same  as 
Cranberries. 

BAKED  PEARS 

For  this  choose  large  sweet  pears.  Wipe  them,  but  do  not 
remove  the  stems.  Stand  them  in  an  earthen  baking-dish, 
pour  around  them  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  cover  with  another  dish,  and  bake 
slowly  until  the  pears  are  tender,  basting  three  or  four 
times  with  the  liquor.  When  done,  stand  away  to  cool  in 
the  dish  in  which  they  were  baked.  When  cold,  lift  them 
carefully  into  a  pretty  glass  dish,  pour  the  liquor  over  them, 
and  serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

STEWED  PEARS 
Pears  may  be  stewed  precisely  the  same  as  Apples. 

STEWED  PRUNES 

Wash  the  prunes  through  several  cold  waters,  cover  them 
with  fresh  cold  water,  and  soak  over  night.  Next  day, 
turn  them  with  the  water  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle, 
sweeten  to  taste,  and  let  them  simmer  very  gently  until 
tender.  When  done,  remove  them  carefully  with  a  skim- 
mer, and  boil  the  syrup  rapidly  for  ten  minutes;  then 
pour  it  over  the  prunes,  and  stand  away  to  cool. 
Dried  peaches  may  be  stewed  in  the  same  way. 


518  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

STEWED  RHUBARB 

Wash  the  rhubarb,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  about  one  inch 
long.  Do  not  peel.  To  every  pound  of  rhubarb  allow 
one  pound  of  sugar.  Put  the  rhubarb  into  a  porcelain- 
lined  or  granite  kettle,  cover  it  with  the  sugar,  and  stand 
it  on  the  back  part  of  the  fire  until  the  sugar  melts;  then 
bring  it  to  boiling  point  without  stirring.  Then  turn  it 
carefully  out  to  cool,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 


CANNING  AND  PRESERVING 


CANNING 

The  process  of  canning  the  different  kinds  of  fruit  varies 
but  little,  except  in  the  amount  of  sugar  used.  None  but 
perfectly  sound  and  fresh  fruits  should  be  used  for  this  pur- 
pose. They  may  be  canned  with  or  without  sugar,  as  the 
sugar  takes  no  part  whatever  in  their  preservation.  The 
fruit  should  not  be  cooked  sufficiently  long  to  destroy  its 
natural  flavor,  and  while  boiling  hot  should  be  sealed  in 
air-tight  glass  jars,  filled  to  overflowing  to  exclude  every 
particle  of  air,  then  quickly  sealed.  The  jars  should  be 
thoroughly  heated  before  filling,  filled  through  a  wide- 
mouthed  funnel,  and  should,  during  this  process,  stand  on 
a  folded  damp  towel,  to  prevent  breakage.  Large-mouthed 
glass  jars,  with  porcelain-lined  or  glass  tops  only,  should 
be  used.  After  filling  and  screwing  on  the  tops,  stand 
the  jars  in  a  warm  part  of  the  kitchen,  where  the  air 
will  not  strike  them,  over  night.  In  the  morning  you 
will  be  able  to  give  the  tops  another  turn.  Then  wipe  the 
jars  carefully,  and  put  them  away  in  a  cool  (not  cold)  dark 
closet.  In  a  week  or  two  examine  them  carefully;  if  the 
liquid  has  settled,  and  you  see  no  small  air  bubbles,  or  the 
porcelain-lined  tops  slightly  indented,  you  may  be  sure  that 
the  fruit  is  keeping ;  if  you  ffnd  the  opposites,  the  fruit  is  be- 
ginning to  ferment,  and  the  jars  will  burst  if  not  opened. 

Re-cook  and  use  them  at  once  for  stewed  fruit,  as  it  is  never 

(519) 


520  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

satisfactory  to  return  them  to  the  jars.  All  large  fruits  should 
be  thrown  into  cold  water  as  soon  as  pared,  to  prevent  dis- 
coloration, then  boiled  in  clear  water,  in  which  has  been 
dissolved  a  quarter-teaspoonful  of  powdered  alum  to  every 
quart  of  water,  until  tender,  then  drained  and  boiled  a  few 
moments  in  the  syrup.  Cook  only  enough  to  fill  one  or 
two  jars  at  a  time ;  have  the  jars  hot  and  everything  ready 
as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  done.  Fill  the  jars  quickly,  run  a 
silver  spoon  handle  around  the  inside  of  the  jar  to  break 
any  air  bubbles  that  may  be  there,  and  then  screw  on  the 
tops  without  delay. 

Small  fruits  are  best  sugared  one  or  two  hours  be- 
fore cooking,  and  then  if  you  add  the  same  proportion 
of  alum,  they  will  be  clear  and  keep  their  shape. 
They  should  just  be  brought  to  boiling  point,  skimmed, 
and  sealed  immediately. 

The  surplus  juice  that  exudes  from  strawberries  and 
plums  may  be  strained  and  boiled  for  jelly. 

By  following  these  directions  religiously,  and  using 
the  quantities  given  in  the  recipes  that  follow,  success  is 
sure. 

APPLES 

i  pound  of  sugar  The  grated  yellow  rind  of 

4  pounds  of  apples  one  lemon 

i  quart  of  water 

Pare  the  apples,  throw  them  into  cold  water.  When  you 
have  enough  to  fill  one  or  two  jars,  take  them  from  the 
water,  put  them  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  cover  with 
boiling  water,  stand  them  on  the  back  part  of  the  fire, 
where  they  will  scarcely  bubble,  until  tender.  While  they 
are  cooking,  put  the  sugar  and«water  in  another  kettle,  stir 
the  sugar  until  it  is  dissolved,  add  the  lemon  rind,  and  boil 
three  minutes.  When  the  apples  are  sufficiently  tender  to 


CANNING   AND    PRESERVING  521 

admit  a  straw,  lift  them  carefully  with  a  strainer  from  the 
water  into  the  syrup,  bring  to  boiling  point,  skim,  and  can 
as  directed. 

PEACHES 

Proceed  precisely  the  same  as  for  Apples. 

PEARS 

Proceed  precisely  the  same  as  for  Apples. 
Bartletts  are  best  for  canning. 

PINEAPPLE 

Pare  the  pineapple,  take  out  the  eyes,  then  pick  the  pine- 
apple into  pieces  with  a  silver  fork.  To  every  pound  of  the 
picked  pineapple  allow  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar. 
Put  the  pineapple  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  add  the 
sugar,  and  cook  over  a  very  moderate  fire  ten  minutes. 
Can  as  directed. 

Or,  the  pineapple  may  be  grated. 

QUINCES 

Pare  and  core  the  quinces  and  cut  into  rings.  Finish  the 
same  as  apples,  using  a  half-pound  of  sugar  to  every  pound 
of  quinces. 

The  skin  and  rough  pieces  may  be  used  for  jelly. 

BLACKBERRIES 

To  every  pound  of  blackberries  allow  a  quarter-pound  of 
sugar.  Put  the  berries  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  cover 
them  with  the  sugar,  and  let  stand  one  or  two  hours,  then 
add  a  quarter-teaspoon  ful  of  ^powdered  alum  to  each  quart 
of  fruit.  Stand  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  bring  to  boiling 
point.  Skim,  and  can  as  directed. 


522  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  ROOK 

CHERRIES 

Stone  the  cherries  ;  and,  if  pie  or  morello  cherries,  allow  a 
half-pound  of  sugar  to  every  pound  of  cherries.  If  ox- 
hearts,  a  quarter-pound  of  sugar.  Proceed  the  same  as 
for  Blackberries. 

CURRANTS  AND  RASPBERRIES 

To  every  quart  of  the  large  red  raspberries  allow  a  half-pint 
of  currant  juice  and  a  half-pound  of  sugar.  Put  the  ber- 
ries in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  add  the  juice  and  sugar, 
bring  to  boiling  point,  and  can. 

DAMSONS 

To  every  five  pounds  of  damsons  allow  three  pounds  of 
sugar.  Finish  the  same  as  Blackberries. 

BLUE  PLUMS 

Allow  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every  pound 
of  plums.  Proceed  as  for  Blackberries. 

Gages  may  be  canned  in  the  same  manner,  first  pricking 
the  skins  to  prevent  cracking. 

STRAWBERRIES 

Can  the  same  as  Blackberries,  using  a  half-pound  of  sugar 
to  every  pound  of  strawberries. 

PRESERVING 

To  preserve,  use  equal  quantities  of  fruit  and  sugar,  and 
cook  sufficiently  long  to  keep  the  fruit  without  being  her- 
metically sealed.  Use  only  the  best  white  sugar. 

Small  fruits  should  be  cooked  slowly  forty  minutes ; 
large  fruits,  pared  and  put  immediately  into  the  syrup,  and 
then  cooked  very  slowly  until  you  can  pierce  them  with  a 
straw. 


CANNING   AND    PRESERVING  523 

Put  the  fruits  into  tumblers  or  very  small  jars,  and 
thereby  prevent  disturbing  a  larger  quantity  than  is  needed. 

PRESERVED   CITRON 

Pare  off  the  outer  skin,  cut  into  halves,  remove  the  seeds, 
then  divide  each  half  into  a  number  of  smaller  pieces.  Put 
them  in  a  stone  jar,  add  a  half-cup  of  salt  to  every  five 
pounds  of  citron.  Cover  with  cold  water,  and  stand  aside 
for  five  hours;  then  drain,  and  cover  with  fresh,  cold 
water.  Soak  two  hours,  changing  the  water  three  or  four 
times.  Dissolve  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  alum  in  two 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  add  the  citron,  and  bring  to  boil- 
ing point.  Drain.  Make  a  syrup  from  two  and  a  half 
pounds  of  granulated  sugar  and  one  and  a  half  quarts  of 
boiling  water,  boil  and  skim.  When  perfectly  clear,  put  in 
the  citron  and  simmer  gently  until  you  can  pierce  it  with  a 
straw.  When  tender,  lift  the  pieces  carefully  with  a  skim- 
mer, place  them  on  a  large  plate,  and  stand  in  the  sun  one 
or  two  hours  to  harden.  Peel  the  yellow  rind  from  one 
large  lemon,  add  it  to  the  syrup,  then  add  the  juice  of  two 
lemons,  and  a  small  piece  of  green  ginger-root  cut  in  thin 
slices.  Boil  gently  for  ten  minutes,  and  stand  aside  until 
wanted.  When  the  citron  has  hardened,  put  it  cold  into 
the  jars,  bring  the  syrup  again  to  a  boil,  and  strain  it  over 
the  citron. 

Watermelon  rind  and  pumpkin  may  be  preserved  in 
the  same  manner. 

MARMALADES  OR  JAMS 

BLACKBERRY  JAM 

Put  the  blackberries  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  stand 
them  over  a  very  moderate  fire  until  thoroughly  heated, 
then  press  them  through  a  sieve.  Measure  the  liquid,  and 


524  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

to  every  pint  allow  a  half-pound  of  sugar.  Put  the  sugar 
and  liquid  back  into  the  kettle  and  boil  rapidly  twenty 
minutes,  stirring  occasionally  to  prevent  scorching.  Pour 
into  tumblers  or  jars,  and  seal  the  same  as  fruit  jelly. 

GRAPE  JAM 

Pulp  the  grapes  ;  put  the  skins  in  one  basin  and  the  pulps 
in  another.  Pour  the  pulps  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle, 
and  bring  to  boiling  point ;  then  press  them  through  a 
colander,  add  the  skins,  and  measure.  Finish  the  same  as 
Blackberry  Jam. 

Or,  after  boiling  the  twenty  minutes,  the  whole  may 
be  pressed  through  a  sieve  to  make  it  fine. 

ORANGE  MARMALADE  (Miss  Parloa) 
Take  equal  weights  of  sour  oranges  and  sugar.  Grate  the 
yellow  rind  from  one-fourth  of  the  oranges.  Cut  all  the 
fruit  in  halves  at  what  might  be  called  the  "equator." 
Pick  out  the  pulp  and  free  it  of  seeds.  Drain  off  as  much 
juice  as  you  conveniently  can,  and  put  it  on  to  boil  with 
the  sugar.  Let  it  come  to  a  boil ;  skim,  and  simmer  for 
fifteen  minutes ;  then  put  in  the  pulp  and  grated  rind,  and 
boil  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Put  away  in  jelly  tumblers. 

PEACH   MARMALADE 

Rub  the  peaches,  but  do  not  pare  them.  Cut  them  in 
halves,  remove  the  stones,  and,  to  every  pound  of  peaches, 
allow  a  half-pound  of  sugar.  Put  the  peaches  in  a  porce- 
lain-lined kettle,  add  sufficient  water  to  cover  the  bottom 
of  the  kettle;  cover,  and  heat  slowly  to  boiling  point;  then 
stir  and  mash  the  peaches  tmtil  fine,  add  the  sugar  and 
three  or  four  kernels  (to  every  quart  of  marmalade) 
blanched  and  pounded  to  a  paste.  Boil  and  stir  continu- 


CANNING    AND    PRESERVING  525 

ally  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  stand  over  a  more  moderate 
fire,  and  cook  slowly  twenty  minutes  longer.  Stir  occa- 
sionally, that  it  may  not  scorch.  Put  away  in  stone  jars. 

Plum   Marmalade   and   Quince   Marmalade    may   be 
made  in  the  same  manner. 

BRANDY  PEACHES 

Take  large  white  or  yellow  freestone  peaches.  (They  must 
not  be  too  ripe.)  Scald  them  with  boiling  water  ;  cover, 
and  let  stand  until  the  water  becomes  cold.  Repeat  this 
scalding,  then  take  them  out,  lay  them  on  a  soft  cloth,  cover 
them  over  with  another  cloth,  and  let  them  remain  until 
perfectly  dry.  Now  put  them  in  stone  jars,  and  cover  with 
brandy.  Tie  paper  over  the  tops  of  the  jars,  and  let  them 
remain  in  this  way  one  week.  Then  make  a  syrup,  allow- 
ing one  pound  of  granulated  sugar  and  a  half-pint  of  water 
to  each  pound  of  peaches.  Boil,  and  skim  the  syrup,  then 
put  in  the  peaches,  and  simmer  until  tender  ;  then  take  the 
peaches  out,  drain,  and  put  them  in  glass  jars.  Stand  the 
syrup  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  mix  equal  quantities  of  this 
syrup  and  the  brandy  in  which  you  had  the  peaches.  Pour 
this  over  the  peaches,  and  seal. 


PICKLING 


SWEET  PICKLES 

Sweet  pickles  should  be  rich,  and  sufficiently  cooked  to 
keep  without  being  hermetically  sealed. 

SPICED  PEACHES 

7  pounds  of  peaches  i  teaspoon ful  of  ground  cloves 

4  pounds  of  sugar  2  teaspoon  fuls  of  allspice 

i  pint  of  vinegar  2  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon 

y<2,  ounce  of  ginger  root  ^  teaspoon  ful  of  ground  mace 
Pare  the  peaches,  but  do  not  remove  the  stones.  Put  the 
vinegar  and  sugar  on  to  boil.  Mix  the  spices,  and  divide 
them  into  four  parts.  Put  each  part  into  a  small  square  of 
muslin,  tie  tightly,  and  then  throw  them  into  the  sugar  and 
vinegar.  When  this  mixture  is  hot,  add  the  peaches ;  bring 
all  to  boiling  point,  take  from  the  fire,  and  turn  carefully  into 
a  stone  jar.  Stand  in  a  cool  place  over  night.  Next  day, 
drain  all  the  liquor  from  the  peaches  into  a  porcelain-lined 
kettle,  stand  it  over  a  moderate  fire,  and,  when  boiling  hot, 
pour  it  back  in  the  jar  over  the  peaches.  Next  day,  drain 
and  heat  again  as  before,  and  do  this  for  nine  consecutive 
days ;  the  last  time  boil  the  liquor  down  until  there  is  just 
enough  to  cover  the  fruit.  Add  the  fruit  to  it,  bring  the 

whole  to  a  boil,  and  put  in  jars  or  tumblers  for  keeping. 
(526) 


PICKLING  527 

The  following  fruits  may  be  pickled  or  spiced  in  the 
same  manner : 

Cantaloupe  Pears  Quinces 

Cherries  Plums  Watermelon  rind 


SOUR  PICKLES 

For  these,  use  none  but  the  best  cider  vinegar.  Do  not 
boil  it,  as  in  this  way  it  is  weakened ;  bring  it  only  to 
scalding-point  before  pouring  it  over  the  pickles.  A  tiny 
piece  of  alum  scalded  with  cucumber  or  gherkin  pickles 
makes  them  crisp. 

Always  prepare  pickles  in  porcelain -lined  or  granite 
kettles  ;  use  wooden  spoons,  never  metal.  Spice  carefully, 
so  that  one  flavor  will  not  predominate,  but  will  all  com- 
bine to  make  a  pleasant  whole.  Cucumbers  and  other 
pickles  are  often  so  strongly  flavored  with  onion,  spices, 
etc.,  that  the  original  flavor  is  entirely  lost. 

Pirkles  should  be  kept  in  a  dark  dry  place  in  stone  or 
glass  jars. 

Nasturtiums  or  a  small  piece  of  horse-radish  thrown 
in  each  jar  prevents  the  vinegar  from  moulding. 

If  you  wish  your  cucumbers  green,  put  them  into  cold 
vinegar  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  stand  them  over  a  mod- 
erate fire,  and  heat  slowly  until  they  become  green. 

As  pickles  of  all  kinds  are  indigestible,  eat  sparingly 
and  masticate  thoroughly. 

MIXED    PICKLES 

y&  medium-sized  head  of      6  large  green  tomatoes 

cabbage  i  large  or  two  small  Spanish 

4  large  roots  of  celery  onions 

4  tablespoon  fuls  of  grated      2  cucumbers 

horse-radish  i  red  and  one  green  pepper 

Chop  all  the  vegetables,  and  mix  them  together.     Put  a 


528  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

layer  about  two  inches  thick  in  the  bottom  of  a  jar,  sprinkle 
it  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  then  another  layer  of  vege- 
tables and  salt,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used.  Let  stand 
twenty-four  hours,  then  drain,  and  press  out  all  the  liquor ; 
cover  with  boiling  water,  let  stand  again  ten  minutes,  then 
press  with  your  hands  until  perfectly  dry.  Add  to  one 
quart  of  vinegar,  a  quarter-teaspoonful  of  powdered  alum, 
and  stir  until  dissolved.  Now  put  a  layer  (two  inches 
thick)  of  the  pickles  in  the  bottom  of  the  jar,  then  sprinkle 
with  mustard  seed,  black  pepper,  and  the  grated  horse-rad- 
ish ;  now  another  layer  of  pickles,  and  so  on  until  all  is 
used.  Now  pour  over  it  the  vinegar,  let  stand  two  days, 
and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

CHOW    CHOW 

}/2,  pound  of  English  mustard     ^  gallon  of  vinegar 
y<z  ounce  of  turmeric  i  cup  of  sugar 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  mustard        i  gill  of  salad  oil 
seed  i  head  of  cauliflower 

i  quart  of  string  beans  i  quart  of  tiny  cucumbers 

i  quart  of  button  onions 

Boil  the  cauliflower,  beans  and  onions  separately  until  tender. 
Cover  the  cucumbers  with  strong  salt  water  and  soak  twenty- 
four  hours.  Then  mix  all  together.  Put  the  vinegar  in  a 
porcelain-lined  kettle.  Mix  the  mustard  and  turmeric 
together,  and  moisten  them  with  a  little  cold  vinegar,  then 
stir  them  into  the  hot  vinegar  and  stir  continually  until  it 
begins  to  thicken  ;  then  add  the  sugar,  mustard  seed,  and 
oil,  stir  again  and  pour  this,  while  hot,  over  the  vegetables. 
Put  away  in  glass  or  st.one  jars. 

OILED    PICKLES 

100  small  cucumbers  i  quart  of  onions 

%  pound  of  ground  mustard  i  pint  of  olive  oil 

i  teaspoon ful  of  black  pepper  i  ounce  of  celery  seed 

^  pound  of  whole  mustard  2  quarts  of  vinegar 


PICKLES  529 

Pare  the  cucumbers  and  onions,  and  slice  them  in  thin 
slices.  Put  a  layer  of  cucumbers,  then  a  layer  of  onions, 
then  a  heavy  sprinkling  of  salt,  then  another  layer  of 
cucumbers,  and  so  continue  these  alternations.  On  top, 
place  a  heavy  weight  to  press  them  down  ;  let  stand  over 
night,  or  at  least  six  hours.  Then  drain  off  the  liquor. 
Put  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered  alum  in  sufficient  cold 
vinegar  to  cover  the  pickles,  stir  until  the  alum  is  dissolved, 
pour  this  over  the  cucumbers  and  onions,  and  stand  aside 
for  four  or  five  hours.  Then  drain.  (This  vinegar  may  be 
saved  to  use  for  other  purposes.)  Put  the  cucumbers  and 
onions  into  glass  or  stone  jars.  Mix  the  mustard,  pepper  and 
celery  seed  with  the  oil,  then  add  gradually  the  two  quarts  of 
vinegar,  and  pour  over  the  cucumbers  and  onions.  Fasten 
the  jars,  and  in  two  weeks  the  pickles  will  be  ready  to  use. 

BORDEAUX    SAUCE     (Mrs.  Henry  Addis) 

1  gallon  of  chopped  green          i  ounce  of  cloves 

tomatoes  i  ounce  of  turmeric 

2  gallons  of  chopped  cabbage      i  ounce  of  ginger 

i  ounce  of  black  pepper  i  ounce  of  celery  seed 

y^.  pound  of  brown  sugar  %  pound  of  mustard  seed 

i  gill  of  salt  i  gallon  of  vinegar 

Mix  the  cloves,  ginger,  turmeric,  pepper,  celery  seed,  mus- 
tard seed,  sugar  and  salt  together,  then  add  the  vinegar ; 
pour  this  over  the  cabbage  and  tomatoes,  turn  into  a  porce- 
lain-lined kettle,  and  simmer  gently  twenty  minutes.  Put 
away  in  glass  or  stone  jars. 

GREEN    TOMATO    PICKLES 

i  peck  of  green  tomatoes,    ^  pound  of  ground  mustard 

sliced  i  dozen  onions,  sliced 

i  Y-2,  ounces  of  black  pepper       i  ounce  of  whole  cloves 

i  ounce  of  whole  allspice      i  ounce  of  mustard  seed 
Put  a  layer  of  tomatoes,  then  a  layer  of  onions,  then  a 
sprinkling  of  salt,  then  another  layer  of  tomatoes,  and  so 


530  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

on  ;  let  stand  over  night.  Next  morning,  drain  off  all  the 
liquor,  put  them  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle  with  all  the 
other  ingredients,  cover  with  vinegar,  and  simmer  gently 
fifteen  minutes.  Put  away  in  stone  or  glass  jars. 

PICKLED    ONIONS 

Pour  boiling  brine  over  the  small  button  onions,  let  them 
stand  twenty-four  hours,  then  drain,  and  cover  with  hot 
vinegar  spiced  to  taste. 

SMALL    CUCUMBER    PICKLES 

Wash  and  wipe  one  hundred  small  cucumbers  and  place 
them  in  jars.  Cover  them  with  boiling  brine,  strong 
enough  to  bear  an  egg ;  let  stand  twenty-four  hours.  Then 
take  them  out,  wipe,  place  in  clean  jars,  and  cover  with 
hot  vinegar,  spiced  with  an  onion,  twelve  whole  cloves,  one 
ounce  of  mustard  seed,  and  three  blades  of  mace.  They 
will  be  ready  to  use  in  two  weeks. 

LEMON     PICKLE 

For  this  choose  small  fruit  with  thick  rind.  Rub  them  with 
a  piece  of  flannel ;  then  slit  them  down  the  quarters,  but 
not  quite  through  the  pulp,  fill  these  slits  with  salt  and  press 
it  in.  Stand  them  upright  in  an  earthen  dish  for  four  days 
until  the  salt  melts.  Then  turn  them  three  days  in  this 
liquor.  Drain,  and  add  to  the  liquor  sufficient  cider  vinegar 
to  cover  them,  add  one  Jamaica  pepper,  and  one  small 
piece  of  green  ginger-root  cut  into  small  pieces.  Bring  to 
boiling-point  and  skim,  then  stand  aside  to  cool.  When 
cold,  pour  it  over  the  lemons,  and  put  away  in  glass  jars. 

PICKLED    WALNUTS 

The  walnuts  should  be  gathered  when  very  young  and  soft, 
soft  enough  to  be  easily  pierced  with  a  pin.  They  should 
be  gathered  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  when  the  sun  is  hot 


PICKLES  531 

upon  them.  Rub  them  with  a  coarse  flannel.  Then  make 
a  brine  from  salt  and  water,  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg, 
and  let  them  lie  in  it  nine  days,  changing  the  brine  every 
other  day.  At  the  end  of  this  time,  take  them  out,  spread 
them  on  large  dishes  and  expose  them  to  the  atmosphere 
for  about  thirty  minutes.  Then  pour  over  them  boiling 
water,  then  take  them  out  one  at  a  time,  rub  them  with  a 
piece  of  coarse  flannel,  and  pierce  them  with  a  large  needle 
in  several  places.  Now  place  them  in  glass  jars.  To  every 
hundred  walnuts  allow  one  gallon  of  vinegar,  one  ounce 
of  cloves,  one  ounce  of  allspice,  one  ounce  of  black  pepper, 
a  half-ounce  of  mace,  and  a  half-ounce  of  nutmeg.  Put 
the  spices  in  the  vinegar,  and  scald  in  a  porcelain  kettle  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Then  strain  the  vinegar,  and  pour  it, 
boiling  hot,  over  the  walnuts ;  add  a  large  tablespoon ful 
of  grated  horse-radish,  and  a  cupful  of  mustard-seed. 
Cover  closely  and  stand  in  a  cool  place. 

MANGOES. 

Cut  the  tops  from  one  dozen  red  and  one  dozen  green 
peppers.  Remove  the  seeds  and  save  the  tops.  Stand  the 
peppers  upright  in  a  tub ;  put  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  each 
one,  cover  with  cold  water  and  soak  twenty-four  hours. 
Drain.  Cut  two  large,  heads  of  cabbage  on  a  cabbage 
cutter,  add  to  this  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves,  one 
teaspoonful  of  ground  allspice,  four  tablespoon fuls  of  whole 
mustard  and  two  tablespoon  fuls  of  salt ;  mix  thoroughly. 
Stuff  the  peppers  with  this  mixture.  Put  on  the  tops  and 
tie  tightly.  Stand  them  upright  in  stone  jars,  and  cover 
with  cold  vinegar. 

Mangoes  are  also  made  from  peaches  and  small  melons. 


CATSUPS 


CUCUMBER   CATSUP 

For  this,  choose  large,  ripe  cucumbers.  Pare,  remove  the 
seeds,  and  grate.  To  every  pint  of  this  pulp  allow : 

J^  pint  of  cider  vinegar 

y^  teaspoonful  of  cayenne 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt 

2  heaping  tablespoon fuls  of  grated 

horse-radish 

Drain  the  grated  cucumber  in  a  colander,  then  mix  with 
all  the  other  ingredients.  Bottle  and  seal. 

MUSHROOM   CATSUP 

Take  freshly  gathered  mushrooms  and  examine  them  care- 
fully to  see  that  they  are  all  right.  Wipe  them,  but  do  not 
wash.  Put  a  layer  of  the  mushrooms  in  the  bottom  of  an 
earthen  dish,  then  sprinkle  well  with  salt,  then  another 
layer  of  mushrooms,  another  of  salt,  and  so  on  alternately ; 
cover  with  a  folded  towel,  and  stand  in  a  very  warm  place 
for  twenty-four  hours ;  then  mash  and  strain  through  a 
coarse  bag.  To  every  quart  of  this  liquor  add  one  ounce 
of  pepper-corns,  and  boil  slowly  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle 
for  thirty  minutes;  then  add  a  quarter-ounce  of  whole 
allspice,  a  half-ounce  of  sliced  ginger-root,  one  dozen  whole 
cloves,  and  three  blades  of  mace.  Boil  fifteen  minutes 


CATSUPS  533 

longer.  Take  from  the  fire  and  stand  aside  to  cool.  When 
cold,  strain  through  flannel,  and  put  into  small  bottles, 
filling  to  the  very  top.  Cork  tightly  and  dip  in  sealing- 
wax. 

TOMATO    CATSUP         No.  i     (Prof.  Rachel  Bodlcy) 

Cut  ripe  tomatoes  into  thin  slices ;  then  put  into  a  stone 
jar  a  layer  of  tomatoes  and  a  layer  of  salt,  and  stand  aside 
for  three  days.  Then  press  through  a  sieve,  add  vinegar 
and  spice  to  taste,  bottle  and  seal. 


TOMATO   CATSUP         No.  2 

i  bushel  of  ripe  tomatoes        2  ounces  of  mustard 
^£  gallon  of  vinegar  i  ounce  of  ginger 

Y?,  pound  of  sugar  ^  ounce  of  cloves 

y?  pint  of  salt  ^  ounce  of  cayenne 

i  y^  ounces  of  black  pepper      l/£  ounce  o^powdered 
i  y-2,  ounces  of  allspice  assafetida 

i  pint  of  alcohol 

Put  the  tomatoes  on  to  boil,  boil  gently  a  half-hour,  then 
press  them  through  a  sieve  to  remove  the  seeds  and  skins. 
Return  this  liquid  to  the  kettle  (which  should  be  porcelain- 
lined),  and  boil  down  to  one  and  a  half  gallons ;  then  add 
the  vinegar  and  evaporate  to  one  and  three-quarter  gallons; 
then  add  the  sugar,  salt  and  spices ;  stir  until  thoroughly- 
mixed.  Put  the  assafetida  into  a  teacup,  add  to  it  two 
tablespoon fuls  of  the  catsup,  stir  until  thoroughly  mixed, 
then  turn  it  into  the  kettle,  stir  continually  until  the  catsup 
comes  to  a  boil,  then  take  it  from  the  fire  and  add  the 
alcohol.  Bottle  and  seal  while  hot. 

This  recipe  has  been  in  constant  use  in  my  own  family 
for  years,  and  is  pronounced,  by  those  who  have  used  it — 
perfect. 


534  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

COLD   TOMATO   CATSUP 

Peel  and  chop  very  fine  a  half-peck  of  ripe  tomatoes. 
Drain  them  in  a  colander,  then  turn  them  into  an  earthen 
vessel  and  add  a  half-cup  of  grated  horse-radish,  one  cup 
of  salt,  one  cup  of  black  and  white  mustard-seed  mixed, 
two  tablespoon fuls  of  black  pepper,  two  red  peppers  and 
two  roots  of  celery  chopped  fine,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  celery- 
seed,  one  cup  of  nasturtiums  chopped  fine,  one  cup  of 
brown  sugar,  two  tablespoonmls  of  ground  cloves,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  ground  allspice,  a  teaspoonful  of  cinna- 
mon, a  teaspoonful  of  mace,  and  one  quart  of  cider  vinegar. 
Mix  all  well  together,  bottle,  and  seal. 

WALNUT   CATSUP 

Take  one  hundred  green  walnuts  that  are  young  enough  to 
be  pierced  through  easily  with  a  pin.  Pierce  each  walnut 
in  five  or  six  places,  then  put  them  in  an  earthen  vessel, 
cover  with  a  half-pound  of  salt  and  two  quarts  of  vinegar. 
Cover  and  stand  aside  for  six  days,  mashing  with  a  potato 
masher  and  stirring  every  day.  At  the  end  of  that  time, 
strain  off  and  squeeze  every  drop  of  liquor  from  the  walnuts. 
Add  a  half-pint  of  vinegar  to  the  remaining  husks,  beat 
them  with  a  potato  masher  and  squeeze  again.  Turn  all 
this  liquor  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  add  to  it  one  ounce 
of  whole  pepper-corns,  forty  whole  cloves  slightly  bruised, 
a  quarter-ounce  of  whole  mace,  a  quarter-ounce  of  nutmeg 
cut  in  thin  slices,  a  small  root  of  horse-radish  cut  in  slices, 
one  blade  of  garlic  chopped,  one  long  red  pepper,  a  half- 
pound  of  anchovies,  and  a  quarter-ounce  of  green  ginger- 
root  cut  in  slices.  Bring  this  mixture  slowly  to  a  boil, 
cover  the  kettle  closely,  and  boil  slowly  a  half-hour.  Then 
strain  through  a  cloth  and  stand  aside  to  cool.  When  cold, 
add  one  pint  of  port  wine;  bottle,  cork  tightly,  and  seal. 
This  should  stand  three  or  four  months  before  using. 


CATSUPS  535 

IMITATION  OF  WORCESTERSHIRE  SAUCE 
Add  to  one  quart  of  vinegar  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of 
cayenne,  three  cloves  of  garlrc  chopped  fine,  five  anchovies 
mashed,  twelve  whole  cloves  bruised,  and  two  blades  of 
mace.  Cover,  and  stand  aside  over  night.  Next  day,  rub 
through  a  fine  sieve,  strain,  add  one  gill  of  port  wine,  put 
it  in  a  demijohn,  cork,  and  stand  aside  for  ten  days;  then 
bottle,  cork  and  seal. 

CHILI  VINEGAR 

This  is  made  by  infusing  fifty  of  the  small  foreign  bird- 
peppers  (small  red  and  yellow  peppers  about  one  inch  long) 
in  one  pint  of  the  best  white  wine  vinegar  for  two  weeks. 

TARRAGON  VINEGAR 

Put  into  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  one  cup  of  freshly -gathered 
tarragon  leaves,  cover  with  a  quart  of  good  cider  vinegar; 
cork  the  bottle  and  stand  aside  for  two  weeks,  shaking  fre- 
quently ;  then  strain  and  squeeze  through  a  flannel  bag. 
Pour  into  small  bottles,  cork,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

This  is  an  agreeable  addition  to  all  salad  and  fish 
sauces. 


636  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


ADDITIONAL   RECIPES  537 


538  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


DRINKS 


COFFEE  f 

The  coffee  tree  is  a  native  of  southern  Arabia  and  Abys- 
sinia, and  is  cultivated  in  various  parts  of  the  world  where 
the  temperature  is  sufficiently  high  and  uniform.  The 
seeds  are  inclosed  in  the  fruit,  which  is  a  roundish  berry, 
umbilicate  at  top,  at  first  green,  then  red,  and  then  a  dark 
purple — resembling  our  common  morello  cherry;  each 
contains  two  seeds  surrounded  by  a  paperish  membrane  and 
inclosed  in  a  yellowish,  pulpy  matter.  These  berries  are 
allowed  to  ferment,  then  they  are  crushed  under  heavy  roll- 
ers, separated,  the  seeds  divested  of  their  coverings,  and 
dried.  These  seeds  constitute  our  coffee.  The  character 
of  coffee  varies  considerably  with  the  climate  and  mode 
of  culture.  The  Mocha  coffee,  which  is  known  by  its  small, 
roundish  grains,  agreeable  odor  and  flavor,  takes  the  pre- 
cedence of  all  others.  The  Java,  a  large,  flat  grain,  is 
highly  esteemed  in  this  country.  The  Brazilian  coffees  are 
between  the  two  in  size  and  inferior  to  both  in  flavor. 
Coffee  improves  by  age.  It  ripens  in  the  mat,  losing  a 
portion  of  its  strength,  and  thus  acquires  a  more  agreeable 
flavor.  If  you  buy  your  coffee  roasted,  do  so  in  small 
quantities.  Keep  it  closely  corked  and  grind  just  before 

using;  the  finer  it  is  ground,  the  better.     The  peculiar 

(539) 


540  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

odor  and  flavor  of  roasted  coffee  are  due  to  the  caffeic  acid, 
the  aromatic  oil,  and,  doubtless,  also,  to  the  sugar,  which  is 
changed  to  caramel.  An  infusion  made  at  a  low  tempera- 
ture (not  exceeding  200°  Fahr.)  is  much  better  than  a 
decoction  made  by  boiling.  The  darker  the  coffee  is 
roasted,  the  more  injurious  the  effects.  If  coffee  be  boiled, 
there  is  extracted  a  poisonous  oil,  and  the  delicate  aroma 
and  flavor  of  the  true  coffee  escape  in  the  steam ;  and,  if 
you  wish  to  enjoy  them,  repair  at  once  to  the  top  of  the 
house,  and  you  will  find  them  there.  To  my  mind,  there 
is  but  one  true  and  healthful  way  of  making  coffee,  and 
that  is  by  percolation — an  infusion,  not  a  decoction,  being 
made. 


TO    MAKE    COFFEE 

The  most  important  point  in  making  good  coffee  is  to  use 
the  water  at  the  first  boil ;  after  it  boils  a  few  minutes  it 
parts  with  its  gases,  and  becomes  flat  and  hard,  and  will 
not  make  a  perfect  infusion  if  you  use  the  finest  berries 
that  Mocha  ever  exported.  Consequently,  wash  the  tea- 
kettle perfectly  clean  every  morning,  fill  it  with  fresh  cold 
water,  and  bring  it  quickly  to  boiling-point.  Have  the 
coffee  in  the  pot,  allowing  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
finely  ground  coffee  to  each  cup,  pour  over  it  the  water; 
as  soon  as  it  drains  through  the  biggin,  fill  the  top  again, 
and  so  on  until  you  have  the  desired  quantity.  Serve  im- 
mediately in  the  same  pot,  if  possible,  I  have  always  pro- 
duced the  best  coffee  from  a  mixture  of  two- thirds  Java 
and  one-third  Mocha,  and  prefer  the  old-fashioned  biggin 
to  any  other  pot. 

For  those  who  do,  and  always  will  boil  their  coffee,  I 
hesitatingly  insert  the  following  recipe : — 


DRINKS  541 

TO    BOIL   COFFEE 

Put  four  heaping  tablespoon fuls  of  finely  ground  coffee 
into  any  sort  of  a  pot.  Put  the  white  of  an  egg  into  a 
bowl,  add  to  it  a  half-pint  of  cold  water,  beat  slightly,  and 
put  one-third  of  it  into  the  pot  with  the  coffee;  add 
sufficient  cold  water  to  thoroughly  moisten.  Then  add 
sufficient  boiling  water  to  make  the  quantity  desired.  Cover 
the  pot,  stand  it  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  bring  it  quickly  to  a 
boil.  Let  it  boil  up  thoroughly  about  a  half-minute,  add 
a  half-cup  of  cold  water,  and  stand  on  one  side  of  the  fire 
a  few  minutes  to  settle. 


TEA 

Tea  is  the  dried  leaves  of  the  tea-plant,  a  hardy  shrub 
growing  chiefly  in  China.  The  leaves  are  picked  in  May 
and  June  of  each  year,  a  plant  yielding  good  leaves  from 
four  to  five  seasons.  The  good,  bad,  and  indifferent  teas 
are  all  taken  from  the  same  shrub,  the  difference  in  quality 
depending  upon  the. soil  and  the  time  of  gathering.  The 
young  leaf-buds  that  are  picked  first  form  our  finest  tea, 
known  as  Gunpowder;  the  second  picking  is  second  best, 
and  so  on.  The  Hysons  are  also  good  varieties  of  green 
teas.  The  Pekoe  is  among  the  best  of  the  black  teas. 

TO    MAKE    TEA 

Tea,  like  coffee,  should  not  be  boiled,  but  made  from 
fresh  boiling  water,  allowing  one  teaspoonful  to  each  person, 
and  one  to  the  pot.  First  scald  the  pot,  and  allow  it  to 
stand  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove  about  ten  minutes; 
then  turn  out  the  water,  put  the  tea  into  the  hot  pot,  and  pour 
over  it  one-half  the  boiling  water  (that  is,  if  you  are  going 
to  make  one  quart  of  tea,  pour  over  it,  at  this  stage,  one 


542  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

pint),  cover  the  pot,  and  stand  on  the  back  part  of  the 
stove  five  minutes  to  draw;  then  add  the  remainder  of  the 
boiling  water,  and  serve  at  once. 

Never  use  a  metal  teapot. 

Russian  tea  is  made  by  putting  a  slice  of  lemon  in  the 
bottom  of  each  cup,  and  pouring  over  it  the  boiling  tea. 

COCOA 

Cocoa,  or  chocolate  nuts,  are  the  seeds  of  Theobroma 
Cacao,  a  handsome  tree  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in 
height,  growing  in  Mexico,  the  West  Indies,  and  South 
America.  These  seeds,  or  cacao  beans,  are  roasted  the 
same  as  coffee  until  the  aroma  is  brought  out.  They  are 
then  pounded  to  a  paste  in  a  hot  mortar,  or  ground  between 
rollers.  The  preparation  thus  produced,  when  mixed  with 
sugar,  starch,  cinnamon,  and  vanilla,  forms  the  chocolate 
of  commerce. 

Cocoa  is  the  bean  ground  fine,  the  oil  partly  extracted, 
and  the  remaining  powder  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of 
sugar. 

Cocoa  Nibs  is  the  bean  deprived  of  its  husks,  and 
then  broken  into  small  rough  pieces.  This  is  the  purest 
and  best  cocoa  in  our  markets. 

The  shells  or  husks  are  also  used  to  make  a  weak  decoc- 
tion for  persons  with  delicate  stomachs. 

CHOCOLATE 

Put  four  ounces  of  chocolate  into  a  farina  boiler,  stand  it 
over  the  fire  to  melt.  When  melted,  add  one  quart  of  new 
milk  slightly  warmed,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Cover  the  farina  boiler  and  boil  five  minutes,  then,  with  a 
whip-churn  or  an  egg-beater,  beat  the  chocolate  until 
smooth  and  creamy.  Serve  with  whipped  cream. 


DRINKS  543 

COCOA 

Put  one  quart  of  milk  to  boil  in  a  farina  boiler.  Moisten 
four  tablespoonluls  of  cocoa  with  a  little  cold  milk,  pour  it 
into  the  boiling  milk,  stirring  all  the  while.  Stir  until  it 
comes  to  boiling-point,  cover  the  farina  boiler,  and  boil  five 
minutes.  Serve  with  whipped  cream. 

Broma,  alkathrepta,  and  racahout  are  all  made  pre- 
cisely the  same  as  Cocoa. 

COCOA   FROM    THE    NIBS 

Put  a  half-cup  of  the  broken  cocoa  into  a  farina  boiler 
with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water.  Boil  two  hours,  or  until 
reduced  to  one  quart,  then  add  one  pint  of  boiling  cream, 
and  serve. 

RACAHOUT  POWDER 

i  pound  of  rice  flour  i  pound  of  cocoa 

i  pound  of  confectioners'       2  ounces  of  arrowroot 

xxx  sugar  2  ounces  of  sugar  of  milk 

i  ounce  of  powdered  salep     i  vanilla  bean 

Mix  and  thoroughly  rub  together,  put  into  glass  jars,  and 

fasten. 

RASPBERRY  VINEGAR 

Put  two  quarts  of  raspberries  into  a  stone  jar,  and  pour 
over  them  one  quart  of  good  cider  vinegar.  Cover  and 
stand  aside  for  two  days,  then  drain  off  the  liquid  without 
mashing  the  berries,  pour  it  over  a  quart  of  fresh  fruit,  and 
stand  as  before.  Do  this  once  more,  the  last  time  strain- 
ing through  a  muslin  bag.  Now  add  one  pound  of  sugar  to 
every  pint  of  this  liquid.  Boil  slowly  five  minutes,  skim, 
let  stand  fifteen^  minutes,  bottle,  and  seal. 

Strawberry  and  blackberry  vinegars  are  made  in  pre- 
cisely the  same  manner. 


IN    THE    KITCHEN    AND 
PANTRY 


It  is  impossible  to  give  any  directions,  except  in  a  general 
way,  regarding  the  kitchen  and  pantry.  Both  should  be 
light,  airy,  and  well  furnished  with  convenient  and  labor- 
saving  utensils.  A  wide,  roomy  dresser  is  most  convenient. 
It  should  have  at  least  two  closets  above,  and  two  below, 
with  two  deep  drawers  at  the  top  of  the  lower  closets. 
In  the  upper  closets  should  be  kept  all  the  dishes  necessary 
for  cooking,  the  pudding  moulds,  tins,  etc.  In  the  lower 
closet,  pots,  kettles,  saucepans,  waffle  irons,  and  broilers,  all 
arranged  and  grouped' so  that  those  in  frequent  use  can  be 
quickly  gotten  out.  In  the  drawers  should  be  kept  cooking 
knives  and  forks,  larding  and  trussing  needles,  wooden 
spoons  and  forks ;  also  jelly-bags,  dish  towels,  linen  soup- 
strainers,  fish  cloths,  and  a  large  piece  of  cheese-cloth  that 
may  be  torn  in  convenient  pieces  as  wanted  ;  a  roll  of  tape 
and  a  ball  of  linen  twine  for  trussing.  Over  the  kitchen 
door  there  should  be  a  ventilator.  Two  or  three  wall- 
pockets  are  convenient  for  holding  papers,  etc. 

Keep  all  scouring  apparatus,  chamois  skins,  etc.,  in  the 
table  drawers. 

By  the  side  of  the  range  there  should  be  a  bracket 
large  enough  to  hold  a  dredging-box  with  flour,  one  with 
salt,  another  with  pepper,  and  still  another  with  sugar. 

Keep  tureens,  large  meat  plates  and  bowls  on  the 
body  of  the  dresser. 

A  corner  closet  in  the  pantry  should  hold  all  the  sugar 
and  spice  boxes,  all  sauces  in  constant  use,  tea,  coffee,  and 

(544) 


KITCHEN  AND    PANTRY  545 

small  dry  groceries.  Immediately  under  the  window  in 
the  pantry  there  should  be  a  stationary  pastry  table  with 
marble  top,  and  grooves  underneath  holding  a  hard-wood 
bread  board,  which  can  be  pulled  out  and  placed  on  top 
the  marble  when  wanted  for  bread  or  biscuits.  A  small 
refrigerator  should  also  be  kept  in  the  pantry  to  hold  the 
little  things  that  need  to  be  kept  cool  while  a  meal  is  in 
preparation.  By  the  side  of  the  pastry  table  have  two  or 
three  deep  shelves  to  hold  the  bread  and  pies  as  you  finish 
them.  The  pantry  should  open  both  into  the  kitchen  and 
the  dining-room,  and  should  be  as  convenient  to  the  range 
as  circumstances  will  allow.  It  should  have  an  abundance  of 
shelves,  closets,  and  drawers. 

Glass  jars  are  convenient  and  best  for  most  dry  gro- 
ceries, such  as  rice,  tapioca,  oatmeal,  etc. 

If  you  have  a  large  refrigerator,  place  it  in  the  base- 
ment or  cellar  where  it  can  be  filled  with  ice  from  a  window 
or  opening  made  for  the  purpose.  A  drain-pipe  should 
also  be  attached  to  carry  the  water  away.  This  saves  much 
time  and  labor.  A  refrigerator  should  be  examined  daily, 
and  kept  scrupulously  clean.  Fish,  onions,  cucumbers,  or 
any  strong  vegetables  should  not  be  kept  in  a  refrigerator 
with  milk  or  butter  unless  the  refrigerator  has  an  automatic 
circulation  of  pure,  dry  air.  If  your  refrigerator  is  lined 
with  metal,  "  things"  will  taste,  one  of  the  other. 

The  inexperienced  housekeeper  will,  we  believe,  be 
glad  of  some  guidance  in  selecting  the  proper  utensils 
needed  in  a  well-furnished  kitchen.  There  are  a  number 
of  utensils  which  are  not  in  general  use  which  lessen  the 
labor  of  cooking,  and  add  much  to  the  attractiveness  of  the 
food,  as  well  as  to  the  comfort  of  the  cook.  It  certainly  is 
unfair  to  expect  a  cook  to  prepare  a  well-appointed  meal 
without  allowing  her  the  needful  implements.  The  follow- 
ing list  will  be  found  to  contain  all  the  utensils  needed  in  a 
well-furnished  kitchen: — 

TIN  WARE 

I  apple  corer  I  small  funnel 

i  asparagus  boiler  3  ice-cream  moulds 

i  two  quart  covered  pail  I  heavy  wire  broiler  for  steaks 


546 


PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 


I  four-quart  covered  pail 
i  quart  graduated  measure 
I  steamer  with  lid 
I  melon  mould  with  lid 

1  fluted  pudding  mould  with  lid 

2  one-quart  fancy  moulds 
2  pint  fancy  moulds 

1  border  mould 

2  plain  Charlotte  Russe  moulds 
I  six-quart  boned-turkey  mould 
i  meat-pie  mould 

12  pie  dishes 
6  deep  jelly-cake  tins 

12  muffin  rings 
I  whip  churn 

I  box  of  French  cutters,  assorted 
6  vegetable  cutters,  assorted 
I  long-handled  skimmer 

3  confectioners'  tubes,  assorted 
I  long-handled  dipper 

I  large  grater  for  onions 
I  large  grater  for  bread 
I  nutmeg  grater 
I  dredging-box  for  pepper 
I  dredging-box  for  cayenne 
I  dredging-box  for'  salt 
I  dredging-box  for  flour 
I  dredging-box  for  sugar 
I  large  funnel 


heavy  wire  broiler  for  fish 

heavy  wire  broiler  for  oysters 

fine  wire  broiler  for  toast 

wire  potato  masher 

Henis  vegetable  press 

wire  frying-basket 

wire  salad  washer 

fine  wire  soup-strainer 

puree  sieve 

small  gravy  strainers 

wire  basket  for  boiling  eggs 

common  colander 

flat  colander 
2  large  dish  pans 
2  small  dish  pans 
6  round  basins,  assorted 

1  round  tin  box  for  holding  lard- 

ing and  trussing  needles 

2  two-quart  milk  cans 

2  one-quart  milk  cans 

3  tin  sheets 
coffee  canister 
tea  canister 
small  oil  can 
chafing-dish 
bread  box 
cake  box 
cracker  box 
coffee  biggin 


WOODEN  WARE 


large  bread  board 

medium-sized  bread  board 

meat  board 

fish  board 

plank  for  planking  shad 

oval  chopping-tray 

wooden  potato  masher 

potato  and  cabbage  cutter 

scrub  bucket 

knife  box 

barrel  covers 

ice-cream  freezer 

ice  pick 

keeler 

2  butter  paddles 
6  wooden  spoons,  assorted 


2  pastry  brushes 

I  small  paint  brush  for  greasing 
pans 

1  dust  brush 

2  stove  brushes 

I  scrubbing-brush  for  tables 
I  scrubbing-brush  for  floor 
I  scrubbing-brush  for  sink 
I  scrubbing-brush  for  glass  and 

china 

I  scrubbing-brush  for  vegetables 
i  nest  of  boxes 
i  nest  of  buckets 
i  spice  box 

1  salt  box 

2  dish  mops  . 


KITCHEN  AND    PANTRY 


547 


2  wooden  forks 

1  hard-wood  rolling-pin 

2  wooden  spatulas 

i  knife-scouring  box 


I  floor  mop 

i  lemon  squeezer 

i  refrigerator  (Ridgway's  is  best) 

i  mortar  and  pestle 


AGATE  WARE 


I  two-quart  farina  boiler 

I  one-quart  farina  boiler 

i  ten-quart  covered  soup  kettle 

i  ten-quart  oval  soup  kettle  for 

boiling  ham 
i  six-quart  covered  kettle 

1  four-quart  covered  kettle 

2  two-quart  covered  kettles 
2  one-quart  saucepans 

2  pint  saucepans 

i  Turk's-head  2 

I  teapot 


French  frying-pans,  assorted 

deep  frying-pan  for  croquettes 

Bain  Marie 

large  flat-bottomed  teakettle 

batter  bucket 

pitchers 

mixing-bowl 

wash-basin 

set  of  gem  pans 

set  of  lady-finger  pans 

round  baking-pans 


IRON  AND  STEEL  WARE 


1  griddle 

2  dripping-pans,  large  size 
2  dripping-pans,  small  size 
6  bread  pans,  4x6 

Boston  brown-bread  mould 

waffle  iron 

French  roll  pan 

porcelain-lined  preserve  kettle 

salamander — a  heavy  iron  ar- 
rangement that  may  be  heated 
red  hot,  and  held  off  a  sur- 
face to  brown  it 

1  scales 
Sad  irons 

2  large  spoons 
6  tablespoons 
6  teaspoons 

i  large  meat  fork 
6  kitchen  knives 
6  kitchen  forks 
I  butcher  knife 
i  palette  knife 

1  chopping-knife 

2  boning-knives 

I  French  cook's  knife 


I  can  opener 

I  pair  sardine  scissors 

I  pair  scissors 

I  corkscrew 

I  cleaver 

I  set  of  skewers 

I  set  of  larding  needles 

I  trussing  needle 

I  pastry  jagger 

I  potato  scoop 

i  griddle  spade 

1  egg  slice 

3  baking-sheets 

2  cake  pans  with  movable  centres 
I  wire  dishcloth 

I  hammer 

Tacks 

i  cave  for  freezing 
I  galvanized  garbage  bucket  with 

lid 

I  set  of  deep  corn  gem  pans 
i  Reed's  roaster 
i  meat   chopper      (Enterprise 

No.  10) 
i  Dover  egg-beater 


548  PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 

EARTHEN  AND  STONE  WARE 

6  yellow  bowls,  assorted  2  butter  pots 

4  half-pint  bowls  I  glass  rolling-pin 

6  half-pint  kitchen  cups  I  graduated  glass  measure 

6  large    soup  dishes   for   meats,         6  stone  jars,  assorted 

fish,  etc.  12  baking-cups  for  pop-overs 

2  stone  jugs  12  French  custard  cups 
2  demijohns  I  bean  pot 


MISCELLANEOUS 

I  pastry  bag  2  dishcloths 

I  jelly  bag  Pudding  cloths 

1  large  piece  of  cheese-cloth  Fine  strainer  cloths 

12  dish  towels  Coarse  bag  for  cracking  ice 

12  hand  towels  Twine 

2  floor  cloths  Ironing  sheet  and  holders 


GATHERED  CRUMBS 


LEMON  BUTTER 

i  pound  of  powdered  sugar  Yolks  of  six  eggs 
Whites  of  four  eggs  Rind  of  one  and  juice  of 

]^  pound  of  butter  two  lemons 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  butter  together  until 
very  light;  then  add  to  them  the  whites,  well  beaten. 
Pour  this  into  a  farina  boiler,  and  stir  constantly  over  the 
fire  unfil  it  thickens;  then  add  the  juice  and  rind  of  the 
lemons,  and  turn  into  an  earthen  vessel  to  cool. 

FRENCH  HONEY 

Beat  together  a  half-cup  of  sugar  and  a  half-cup  of  butter 
until  very  light;  then  add  one  egg  and  beat  again,  add  the 
juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon,  and  stir  the  whole  over  the 
fire  until  it  thickens  and  comes  to  a  boil.  Turn  out  to  cool. 

NEVADA  MOUNTAIN  HONEY 

Boil  two  pounds  qf  white  sugar,  a  half-pint  of  water,  and 
a  half-teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar  together  for  three 
minutes,  after  it  begins  to  boil.  Do  not  stir  after  the  sugar 
is  dissolved.  Add  three  drops  of  oil  of  rose  and  three 
drops  of  oil  of  peppermint  to  one  gill  of  alcohol ;  shake 
it  well,  and  add  a  half-teaspoonful  of  it  to  the  boiling  syrup. 
Turn  out  to  cool. 

This,  if  carefully  made,  is  a  most  perfect   imitation  of 
strained  honey. 

(549) 


550  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

TO  MAKE  BUTTER 

Warm  the  cream  to  a  temperature  of  56°  or  58°  Fahr.,  and 
it  will  churn  in  fifteen  minutes.  After  the  butter  collects 
in  the  churn,  take  it  out  and  stand  it  for  a  minute  in  a  very 
cold  place.  Do  not  wash  it,  as  in  this  way  you  rob  it  of 
certain  elements  necessary  for  its  preservation.  Work  it 
continuously  and  thoroughly  until  all  the  buttermilk  is  out, 
adding  two  even  teaspoonfuls  of  very  fine  salt  to  each 
pound  of  butter,  after  you  have  worked  it  about  five  min- 
utes. Make  it  at  once  into  prints,  and  stand  away  in  a 
cool  place. 

TO  MAKE  CARPETS  BRIGHT 

Sprinkle  them  with  tea-leaves;  sweep  thoroughly,  but 
lightly.  Rub  all  spots  with  a  clean  dry  cloth.  Grease 
spots  may  be  drawn  out  by  covering  with  a  piece  of  coarse 
brown  paper,  and  then  passing  over  them  a  warm  flat-iron. 
The  paper,  if  soft,  will  absorb  the  grease. 

TO  WASH  SILK 

Mix  a  quarter-pound  of  honey,  a  quarter-pound  of  soft 
soap,  one  gill  of  gin,  and  a  pint  of  cold  water  together. 
Put  the  silk  on  a  table  or  board,  scrub  it  with  this  mixture, 
rubbing  it  in  well ;  then  rinse  in  clear  soft  water.  Shake 
it  as  dry  as  you  can;  do  not  wring  it.  Hang  it  up  by  the 
edges,  and,  as  soon  as  it  is  sufficiently  dry,  iron  it  on  the 
wrong  side. 

A  fluid  for  removing  grease  from  silk  and  cloth  may  be 
made  by  mixing  together  a  quarter-ounce  of  carbonate  of 
ammonia,  a  quarter-ounce  of  fluid  chloroform,  a  quarter- 
ounce  of  sulphuric  ether,  and  one  quart  of  distilled  ben- 
zine. Bottle  and  cork.  This,  like  all  such  mixtures,  is 
very  inflammable. 

GATHERING  THE  PERFUME  OF  PLANTS 

The  perfume  of  flowers  may  be  gathered  in  a  very  simple 
manner  and  without  apparatus.  Gather  the  flowers  with  as 
little  stalk  as  possible  and  place  them  in  a  jar  three  parts 
full  of  almond  or  olive  oil.  After  being  in  the  oil  twenty- 
four  hours,  put  them  into  a  coarse  cloth,  and  squeeze  the 


GATHERED    CRUMBS  551 

oil  from  them.  Put  this  oil  back  into  the  jar  and  fill  again 
with  fresh  flowers,  and  repeat  the  operation  according  to 
the  strength  of  the  perfume  desired.  The  oil  being  thus 
thoroughly  perfumed  with  the  volatile  principle  of  the 
flowers  is  to  be  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  pure  recti- 
fied spirits,  and  shaken  every  day  for  two  weeks,  when  it 
may  be  poured  off  ready  for  use. 

TO    STOP   BLEEDING 

If  the  blood  comes  from  a  wound  in  jets  or  spirts  be  quick 
or  the  person  may  bleed  to  death  in  a  few  minutes,  because 
the  artery  is  severed.  Tie  a  handkerchief  loosely  around 
near  the  part  between  the  wound  and  the  heart.  Put  a 
stick  between  the  handkerchief  and  the  skin,  and  twist  it 
around,  tightening  the  handkerchief  until  the  blood  ceases 
to  flow,  and  keep  in  that  position  until  the  physician  arrives. 
If  in  a  position  where  the  handkerchief  cannot  be  used 
press  the  thumb  on  a  spot  near  the  wound,  between  the 
wound  and  heart ;  increase  the  pressure  until  the  bleeding 
ceases,  but  do  not  lessen  the  pressure  for  an  instant,  until 
the  physician  arrives. 

TO    RESUSCITATE    THE  DROWNED 

As  soon  as  the  body  is  removed  from  the  water,  press  the 
chest  suddenly  and  forcible  downward  and  backward  and 
instantly  discontinue  the  pressure.  Repeat  this  without  in- 
termission until  a  pair  of  bellows  can  be  procured.  When 
obtained,  introduce  the  nozzle  well  upon  the  tongue,  sur- 
round the  mouth  with  a  handkerchief  or  towel  and  close  it. 
Direct  a  bystander  to  press  firmly  on  the  projecting  part  of 
the  throat,  called  Adam's  apple,  and  use  the  bellows  gently 
and  regularly,  and  each  time  the  lungs  are  inflated  with  the 
bellows  press  upon  the  chest  to  expel  the  air  from  the  lungs 
to  imitate  natural  breathing.  Continue  this  an  hour  at 
least,  until  signs  of  natural  breathing  come  on.  Wrap  the 
body  in  warm  blankets,  and  place  it  near  the  fire,  and  do 
everything  to  preserve  the  natural  warmth  as  well  as  to  im- 
part artificial  heat  if  possible.  Avoid  all  friction  until 
respiration  is  in  some  degree  established.  It  is  best  to  send 
for  medical  aid  immediately. 


552  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

ANTIDOTES  FOR  POISONS 

If  any  poison  is  swallowed,  drink  immediately  a  half-glass 
of  tepid  water  with  a  heaping  teaspoonful  each  of  common 
salt  and  ground  mustard.  This  vomits  as  soon  as  it  reaches 
the  stomach,  but  for  fear  that  some  of  the  poison  may  still 
remain,  swallow  the  white  of  one  or  two  eggs,  or  drink  a 
cup  of  strong  black  coffee — these  two  being  antidotes  for 
a  greater  number  of  poisons  than  any  other  dozen  articles 
known,  with  the  advantage  of  their  always  being  at  hand. 
For  oil  of  vitriol  or  aquafortis,  give  large  doses  of  magnesia 
and  water.  For  ammonia,  give  vinegar  freely.  For  oxalic 
acid,  give  magnesia  or  chalk  and  water,  administered  in 
large  and  frequently-repeated  doses.  For  saltpetre,  give  an 
emetic  of  mustard  and  water,  afterwards  mucilage  and 
small  doses  of  laudanum.  For  opium  or  laudanum,  give 
an  emetic  of  mustard  and  water;  use  constant  motion, 
and,  if  possible,  a  stomach  pump ;  also,  strong,  black 
coffee.  For  arsenic,  doses  of  magnesia  are  useful,  but 
freshly-prepared  hydrated  oxide  of  iron  is  best.  For  insects 
taken  into  the  stomach,  give  small  quantities  of  vinegar  and 
salt.  For  corrosive  sublimate,  give  the  whites  of  eggs  mixed 
with  water  until  free  vomiting  takes  place. 

FOR  BURNS 

Lime  water  and  sweet  oil  well  mixed  in  equal  quantities  is 
one  of  the  very  best  remedies  for  a  burn.  Lime  and  lard, 
well  mixed,  are  also  good. 


TO  REMOVE  IRON   MOULD  FROM  LINEN 

Rub  the  iron  mould  over  with  sulphuret  of  potash,  then 
bathe  it  well  in  citric  acid  (lemon  juice)  and  afterwards 
wash  it  well  in  water. 


TO  REMOVE  INK    STAINS    FROM    LINEN 

Bathe  the  stains  freely  with  lemon  juice,  sprinkle  thickly  with 
fine  salt,  and  place  in  the  sun  a  few  hours. 


GATHERED    CRUMBS  553 

TO    TAKE    OUT    MILDEW 

Wet  the  article  and  rub  on  it  equal  parts  of  soap  and  chalk 
mixed  together,  then  place  in  the  sun  until  the  spots  dis- 
appear. 

STARCH  FOR  DARK  CALICOES 

Make  starch  as  usual,  and  add  to  it  one  pint  of  perfectly 
clear  coffee.  Strain  and  add  a  tiny  piece  of  spermaceti. 

The  color  may  be  set  in  doubtful  calicoes  by  dipping 
them  in  a  strong  solution  of  salt  and  water  before  washing. 

TO    MEND    CHINA 

Take  a  very  thick  solution  of  gum  arabic  and  water,  and 
stir  into  it  plaster  of  paris  until  the  mixture  becomes  a 
viscous  paste.  Apply  it  with  a  brush  to  the  fractured  edges 
and  stick  them  together.  In  three  days  the  article  cannot 
be  broken  in  the  same  place.  The  whiteness  of  this  cement 
renders  it  doubly  valuable. 

TO   KEEP   LEMONS 

Cover  with  cold  water,  changing  it  every  week.  This 
makes  them  ripe  and  juicy. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

Cranberries  will  keep  all  winter  in  a  keg  of  water. 

Clean  brass  kettles  before  using  with  salt  and  vine- 
gar, to  avoid  being  poisoned  by  the  verdigris. 

A  few  drops  of  oil  of  lavender  here  and  there  through 
a  bookcase  will  save  a  library  from  mould. 

To  cleanse  articles  made  of  white  zephyr,  rub  in  flour 
and  magnesia,  changing  often.  Shake  off  the  flour  and 
hang  the  article  in  the  sun. 

Spots  in  calico  or  cloth  produced  by  an  acid  may  be 
restored  by  touching  the  spots  with  spirits  of  hartshorn. 
Spots  produced  by  an  alkali  may  be  removed  by  moisten- 
ing them  with  vinegar  or  tartaric  acid. 

To  clean  velvet  and  make  it  look  like  new,  invert  a  hot 
flat-iron,  put  over  it  a  thickness  of  wet  muslin,  lay  on  this 
the  velvet,  wrong  side  next  to  the  muslin,  and  brush  the 
velvet  gently  as  it  steams,  drawing  it  over  the  iron. 


HOW 


TO   LARD 

Larding  pork  should  be  salt,  solid,  and  clear  fat  without 
any  streaks  of  lean.  Cut  into  thin  even  slices,  and  cut 
these  slices  into  long  narrow  strips,  that  will  fit  the  larding- 
needle  you  intend  to  use.  For  Beef  a  la  Mode  the  lardoons 
should  be  about  the  size  of  a  lead-pencil.  For  veal,  turkey, 
chicken,  birds  or  sweetbreads,  they  should  be  about  half 
that  size.  About  one  inch  from  the  rind  of  the  pork  you 
will  notice  a  decided  mark  or  streak ;  below  this  and  near- 
est the  rind,  is  the  muscular  part  of  the  pork,  and  the  only 
part  that  can  be  used  for  larding.  Above  this  the  pork  is 
so  tender  that  it  will  break  when  you  put  it  in  the  needle. 
After  you  cut  these  strips  (lardoons  they  are  now  called), 
put  them  into  a  bowl  of  very  cold  water  to  harden.  Place 
one  lardoon  into  the  slot  end  of  the  larding-needle  as  far 
as  it  will  go,  thrust  the  needle  into  the  meat,  taking  a  stitch 
about  one  inch  deep,  push  the  needle  through,  place  the  fin- 
ger lightly  on  the  strip  of  pork,  and  draw  the  needle  out, 
leaving  the  pork  exposed  about  a  quarter-inch  at  each  end 
of  the  stitch,  and  so  continue  until  you  have  finished. 

TO    LARD    WITH    TRUFFLES 

Cut  the  truffles  into  tiny  blocks,  insert  the  truffle-needle  (a 
hollow  needle  with  a  sharp  point  and  a  wire  rod  to  push 
the  truffle  through)  under  the  skin,  and  just  a  little  into 
the  flesh.  Now  put  a  block  of  the  truffle  into  the  large  end 
of  the  needle  and  push  it  through  into  the  meat  with  the 
wire  rod,  and  so  continue  until  you  have  finished. 

(554) 


HOW  555 

TO    FRY 

Frying,  though  one  of  the  most  common  of  the  culin- 
ary operations,  is  one  that  is  least  commonly  performed 
perfectly  well.  It  often  results  in  burning  the  outside, 
while  the  inside  is  cold,  or  serving  the  article  in  a  coat- 
ing of  grease.  It  is  very  important,  that  the  oil,  lard, 
or  dripping  should  be  very  hot  (about  360°  Fahr.)  before 
the  article  is  put  in.  We  cannot  insist  too  strongly  on  this 
point.  There  should  be  sufficient  fat  to  immerse  the  article 
to  be  fried.  If  too  many  things  are  put  in  the  fat  at  one 
time  they  will  be  badly  fried,  because  the  temperature  of 
the  fat  will  quickly  fall  l>elow  the  point  necessary  to  fry 
properly.  The  most  successful  frying  is  when  the  tempera- 
ture rises  four  or  five  degrees  during  the  frying.  The  tem- 
perature of  the  fat  should  vary  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  things  fried.  To  ascertain  when  it  is  of  the  proper 
heat  without  a  thermometer,  throw  in  a  little  bit  of  bread, 
if  it  browns  quickly  the  fat  is  ready;  if  it  burns  the  bread, 
it  is  too  hot.  Fish,  potatoes,  croquettes  and  rissoles,  re- 
quire the  fat  quite  hot,  say  about  385°  Fahr.,  doughnuts, 
crullers  and  fritters  300°  to  320°  Fahr. 

A  wire  frying-basket  is  very  convenient  for  frying  cro- 
quettes, potatoes,  etc. 

TO    BLANCH    ALMONDS 

Shell  them,  throw  them  into  boiling  water,  and  let  stand 
on  the  back  part  of  the  stove  five  minutes,  then  throw  them 
into  cold  water,  and  rub  them  between  the  hands  to  remove 
the  skins. 

TO    SALT   ALMONDS 

Shell,  blanch  and  spread  them  out  on  a  bright  tin  pie  dish, 
add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  hickory-nut,  and  stand 
them  in  a  moderate  oven  until  a  golden  brown.  Take 
them  from  the  oven,  stir  them  around,  dredge  them  thickly 
with  salt,  and  turn  out  to  cool. 

TO    FILL   ORANGES    WITH    JELLY 

Cut  a  small  round  piece  of  the  skin  from  the  stem  end, 
then  with  your  finger  loosen  the  pulp  from  the  skin  and 
gradually  work  your  finger  between  the  skin  and  pulp  until 
you  have  it  entirely  loosened.  Now  draw  the  pulp  out 


556  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

through  the  opening  without  breaking  the  skin.  Throw 
the  skins  into  cold  water  until  wanted.  Have  ready  an 
Orange  or  Wine  Jelly,  drain  the  orange  skins,  fill  them  with 
the  jelly,  and  stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  cut  them 
into  halves  and  then  into  quarters,  and  arrange  them  on  a 
pretty  dish,  garnished  with  smilax. 

TO    MAKE    ORANGE    BASKETS 

Mark  out  with  a  knife  a  basket  and  handle  on  the  skin  of 
a  large  orange,  then  cut  it  out,  loosen  the  pulp  and  remove 
without  breaking  the  skin.  Throw  the  baskets  into  cold 
water  one  or  two  hours  to  stiffen.  Make  a  Port  and  Lemon 
Jelly,  and  turn  into  square  moulds  to  harden.  When  hard, 
cut  into  blocks  and  fill  the  baskets.  Stand  the  baskets  on 
a  pretty  dish,  garnished  with  smilax  and  roses. 

•  TO  GLACE"  FRUITS 

Have  the  fruit  perfectly  dry.  If  oranges,  separate  carefully 
each  carpel  without  breaking  the  inner  skin.  Stand  them 
in  a  warm  place  to  dry.  Put  one  pound  of  granulated 
sugar  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  add  to  it  a  half-cup  of 
water,  and  stand  over  the  fire  to  boil.  Do  not  stir  after 
the  sugar  is  dissolved.  After  the  mixture  has  been  boiling 
about  ten  minutes,  hold  the  forefinger  and  thumb  in  ice- 
water  for  a  minute,  then  quickly  dip  up  a  little  of  the  boil- 
ing syrup  with  them ;  press  the  thumb  and  finger  tightly 
together,  then  draw  them  apart ;  if  the  syrup  forms  a  thread, 
it  is  at  the  second  degree.  Boil  gently  about  three  or  four 
minutes  longer  until  it  reaches  the  sixth  degree.  This  may 
be  known  by  taking  a  small  portion  on  the  end  of  a  spoon, 
then  dipping  it  into  cold  water,  and  breaking  it  off  quickly ; 
if  it  is  brittle,  without  being  at  all  sticky,  it  is  just  right. 
The  syrup  must  never  be  stirred,  or  it  will  cause  granula- 
tion. Now  take  it  quickly  from  the  fire,  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  stand  in  a  basin  of  boiling  water,  to  keep 
the  syrup  from  candying.  Take  the  fruit  on  the  point  of  a 
large  skewer  or  with  sugar  tongs,  dip  into  the  syrup,  lay  on 
a  piece  of  buttered  paper,  and  stand  in  a  warm  dry  place 
to  dry. 

English  walnuts  and  almonds  are  glaced  in  the  same 
manner. 


HOW  557 

TO   CLEAN    CURRANTS 

Add  one  cup  of  flour  to  every  quart  of  currants  and  rub 
them  well  between  the  hands.  This  will  free  them  from 
stones  and  stems.  Then  turn  them  into  a  colander  and 
skake  until  the  stems  have  passed.  Now  put  them  in  a  pan 
of  cold  water,  wash  thoroughly,  drain  and  wash  again. 
Spread  on  boards  or  flat  dishes,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place 
to  dry.  When  dry  they  are  ready  to  use. 

TO   WHIP    CREAM 

Very  thick  cream  should  have  an  equal  quantity  of  new 
milk  added  to  it  before  being  whipped.  But  moderately 
thick  cream  will  whip  nicely  if  ice  cold.  If  you  have  a 
small  crank  churn  (you  can  get  them  that  will  hold  about 
two  quarts),  pour  the  cream  into  the  churn  and  turn  the 
dasher  steadily  for  about  three  minutes,  and  the  cream  will 
be  whipped  all  the  way  to  the  bottom.  If  you  use  the 
ordinary  whip  churn,  have  the  cream  in  a  tin  pail,  placed 
in  a  pan  of  ice-water.  Stand  a  colander  in  a  bowl  or  basin. 
Put  the  whip  churn  into  the  cream,  hold  it  with  the  left 
hand,  tilt  slightly,  that  it  may  not  stand  flatly  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  pail ;  now  with  right  hand  draw  the  dasher  up 
quickly,  then  press  it  down  hard,  then  up  and  down  again, 
and  so  on.  When  the  pail  is  full,  skim  off  the  froth  and 
lay  it  in  the  colander  to  drain,  and  so  continue  until  you 
have  whipped  all  the  cream. 

When  whipped  cream  is  to  be  served  alone  as  a  dessert 
or  as  a  garnish  for  Bavarian  creams  and  other  desserts,  it 
should  be  flavored  before  whipping. 

TO    MAKE    A    PASTRY-BAG 

Fold  a  piece  of  very  strong  muslin  (one  foot  square)  from 
two  opposite  corners.  Fell  the  edges  tightly  together,  thus 
forming  a  triangular  bag.  Cut  off  the  point  to  make  an 
opening  large  enough  to  insert  a  tin  pastry  tube.  It  is  bet- 
ter to  have  two  or  three  pastry  bags,  each  fitting  their  own 
respective  tubes. 

TO   USE   THE    PASTRY-BAG 

Put  the  tin  tube  into  the  bag  and  fit  it  into  the  opening. 
Fill  the  bag  with  the  mixture,  close  the  top  of  the  bag, 


558  PHILADELPHIA     COOK  BOOK 

give  it  a  twist,  and  hold  it  tightly  with  the  right  hand. 
Put  the  point  of  the  tube  close  to  the  place  where  the 
mixture  is  to  be  spread.  Press  with  the  left  hand,  and 
guide  the  mixture  into  any  shape  desired,  eclairs,  lady- 
fingers,  etc. 

TO    MAKE    A    JELLY-BAG 

Take  one  yard  of  thick  all-wool  flannel,  fold  the  two  oppo- 
site corners  together,  fell  the  side,  making  a  triangular  bag. 
Bind  the  top  with  heavy  tape,  and  fasten  on  the  upper  side 
two  or  three  heavy  loops  by  which  it  may  be  hung  up. 

TO    THAW    MEAT    OR    POULTRY 

Stand  in  a  warm  room  several  hours  before  cooking. 

TO    BOIL    WATER 

Wash  out  the  tea-kettle  thoroughly,  fill  it  with  fresh  cold 
water,  stand  it  over  a  quick  fire  and  bring  to  boiling  point. 
Use  at  its  first  bubbles,  or  it  parts  with  its  gases  and  be- 
comes flat. 

TO    CLARIFY    FAT 

A  careful  cook  seldom  buys  lard ;  she  saves  all  the  skim- 
ming from  soup,  all  trimmings  from  steaks,  and  the  drip- 
ping from  roasts.  Put  the  dripping  to  be  clarified  into  a 
saucepan,  set  it  over  a  moderate  fire  until  all  the  fat  is 
melted ;  then  strain  into  a  clean  pan,  and  add  to  every 
three  pounds  of  this  fat  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  a  quar- 
ter-teaspoonful  of  baking-soda.  Stand  over  a  moderate 
fire,  and  boil  until  the  water  has  evaporated  and  the  fat  is 
clear.  Skim,  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  tin  kettle, 
and  it  is  ready  to  use. 

TO    SCALD    MILK 

Put  the  milk  in  a  basin  or  farina  boiler,  stand  it  in  a  pan 
of  boiling  water  over  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  milk  be- 
gins to  steam  it  is  scalded. 

TO    MAKE    VANILLA-SUGAR 

One  pound  of  granulated  sugar  and  one  ounce  of  vanilla 
bean.  Cut  the  beans  into  halves,  then  into  small  pieces; 


HO  IV  559 

put  them  into  a  mortar  with  the  sugar,  and  pound  until  per- 
fectly fine.  Sift  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  keep  in  glass 
jars  closely  corked. 

TO    MAKE    GUMBO    FILLET    POWDER 

Take  the  very  young  tender  leaves  of  the  sassafras,  spread 
them  out  on  white  paper,  and  dry  in  a  cool,  dry,  airy  place. 
When  dry,  pound  in  a  mortar,  press  through  a  hair  sieve, 
and  keep  in  a  closely  corked  bottle. 

TO    MAKE    CARAMEL 

Put  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar  in  an  iron  or  granite 
saucepan,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  melts  and  burns.  As 
soon  as  it  begins  to  smoke  and  boil,  add  one  cup  of  boil- 
ing water;  let  it  boil  one  minute,  turn  in  a  bottle,  and 
cork  tightly. 

This  is  used  for  coloring  soups,  sauces,  and  puddings. 

TO    CLARIFY    SUGAR 

Put  the  desired  quantity  of  sugar  and  water  on  to  boil ; 

mix  with  a  small  portion  of  cold  water  the  white  of  one 

egg,  add  it  to  the  boiling  syrup.  Bring  to  boiling  point, 
skim,  and  strain. 

HOW    TO    PULL   CANDY 

After  boiling  candy,  turn  it  on  a  marble  slab  or  a  large 
meat-plate  to  cool.  When  cool,  but  not  cold,  grease  your 
hands  lightly  with  olive  oil  or  butter,  take  the  candy  in 
your  hands,  throw  it  over  a  large  hook  and  pull  it  towards 
you,  and  so  continue  until  the  candy  is  creamy.  Make 
the  candy  move,  and  not  your  hands,  or  you  will  blister 
them  quickly. 

TO    USE    A   SALAMANDER 

A  salamander  is  a  round  iron  plate,  to  which  is  attached  a 
long  handle.  It  is  used  to  brown  the  surface  of  dishes 
that  cannot  be  placed  in  the  oven.  Heat  it  red  hot  and 
then  pass  it  over  the  top  of  the  dish,  being  careful  not  to 
hold  it  too  close,  or  it  will  scorch.  A  very  good  salaman- 
der is  made  from  an  ordinary  iron  fire-shovel. 


SUITABLE    COMBINATIONS 
OF   FOOD 


Man  has  not  only  to  complete  and  repair  the  structure 
which  constitutes  his  body,  but  has  also  to  create  heat  in 
more  or  less  abundance  according  to  the  climate  in  which 
he  lives ;  consequently  to  keep  the  body  in  a  perfectly 
healthy  condition,  he  must  employ  a  wise  combination  of 
food.  In  perfect  health  he  requires  no  rules.  Nature 
teaches  him  how  to  live.  But  deviations  from  the  laws  of 
nature,  blunt  his  instincts  so  that  he  can  hardly  tell  what 
nature  is,  and  tempt  him,  not  only  to  take  greater  quanti- 
ties of  food  than  his  economy  requires,  but  also  of  a  more 
stimulating  nature.  Idleness,  want  of  mental  occupation, 
and  self-indulgence  often  lead  to  over-feeding,  and  the  im- 
moderate use  of  alcoholic  stimulants. 

Food  requirements  vary  with  such  wide  limits  in  dif- 
ferent individuals  and  different  occupations  that  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  lay  down  a  general  rule  as  to  the  quantity  of 
food  required.  In  some  persons  the  process  of  digestion  is 
so  rapid  that  frequent  meals  are  required,  and  if  food  is  not 
taken  when  the  digestive  organs  call  for  it,  a  sensation  of 
sickening  and  faintness  comes  on  and  the  appetite  is  lost. 

In  prisons  or  in  the  army,  where  all  men  breath  the 
same  atmosphere  and  follow  the  same  occupation,  it  is  pos- 
sible to  establish  approximately  the  amount  of  food  re- 
quired. In  Edinburg,  where  a  hundred  prisoners  were  con- 
fined, experiments  were  made  to  ascertain  the  smallest 
amount  of  food  required  to  keep  the  weight  and  strength 
(560) 


SUITABLE    COMBINATIONS    OF  FOOD      561 

of  man  in  idleness.  Seventeen  ounces  of  food  per  day  for 
two  months  was  given  each  man  ;  four  ounces  were  muscle  - 
making  or  nitrogenous  food ;  the  remaining  thirteen  ounces 
heat  and  force-producing  or  carbonaceous  food.  During 
this  time  eighteen  men  lost  one  and  a  half  pounds  each, 
eighty-two  held  their  own  or  gained  weight.  The  same 
experiment  was  tried  in  Dundee,  but  there  they  gave 
molasses  with  their  oatmeal  instead  of  milk,  as  was  given  at 
Edinburg.  Fifty  of  their  prisoners  lost  five  pounds  each, 
while  the  remaining  fifty  held  their  own  or  gained  weight. 
By  these  and  other  statistics  we  find  that  the  system  requires 
nearly  five  times  as  much  carbonaceous  as  nitrogenous  food. 

A  thorough  acquaintance  with  these  facts  cannot  be 
too  highly  estimated.  Two-thirds  of  all  the  intemperance 
in  the  land  is  due  to  ill  and  unscientific  feeding.  When  I 
say  ill-fed,  I  do  not  mean  the  poor  who  have  scanty  nour- 
ishment, but  also  that  class  who  indulge  their  acquired  and 
unnatural  appetites  in  highly  seasoned  and  over-nitrogenous 
foods.  We  must  keep  steadily  before  us  the  principle  that 
it  is  not  the  quantity  of  food  received  which  nourishes  the 
body,  but  the  proportion  that  can  be  digested  of  such  food, 
all  else  is  worse  than  waste,  whose  presence  clogs  and 
throws  out  of  order  the  delicate  digestive  organs.  A  man 
may  eat  tijl  he  can  take  no  more  and  still  have  an  unsatisfied 
feeling.  His  food  has  not  been  properly  proportioned. 
Each  organ  requires  different  elements,  and  each  has  the 
power  of  taking  up  from  the  mass  such  as  are  required  by 
them  and  rejecting  all  others. 

While  we  take  food  in  the  proportions  to  satisfy  each 
organ,  peace  and  harmony  prevail  in  the  system,  but  let  us 
indulge  in  over  or  improper  feeding,  an  excitement  is  at 
once  produced,  and  each  organ  makes  an  effort  to  reject  its 
enemy,  and  the  whole  system  becomes  "out  of  order,"  and 
still  we  cannot  read  this  lesson  of  nature,  teaching  us  to 
keep  out  of  our  stomachs  everything  but  the  proper 
elements.  How  few  there  are  who  know  why  we  serve 
potatoes  or  rice  with  lean  beef,  why  we  put  butter  on  our 
bread,  why  it  is  better  to  eat  sugar  and  cream  on  oatmeal 
and  grits,  why  we  eat  more  fruit  and  less  meat  in  summer 
than  in  winter  and  vice  versa. 


562  PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

To  nourish  ourselves  properly,  we  must  bear  in  mind 
that  during  the  process  .of  life  we  use  up  and  cast  away 
matter  which  must  be  replaced  by  equal  substances,  and 
we  must  find  these  supplies  among  such  substances  as  con- 
tain in  them  some  of  our  own  elements.  Albumen  must 
be  replaced  by  albumen,  fibrin  by  fibrin ,,  etc. 

For  convenience,  here,  we  will  divide  our  food  into 
three  classes:  nitrogenous,  carbonaceous  (organic),  and 
the  inorganic  foods.  The  nitrogenous  foods,  as  the  name 
indicates,  contain  nitrogen.  They  have  for  their  basis  albu- 
men, fibrin,  gluten  and  casein.  The  principal  foods  of 
this  class  are  of  animal  origin,  and  eggs  and  milk.  They 
also  exist  in  some  vegetables,  as  gluten  and  legumen  in 
•wheat,  lentils  and  peas.  This  class  contains  a  large  amount 
of  nutriment,  of  such  material  as  is  easily  converted  into 
living  tissue.  These  foods  are  all  digested  in  the  stomach, 
consequently,  should  not  be  given  in  conditions  in  which 
this  organ  needs  rest.  Belonging  to  the  carbonaceous  foods 
are  the  starches,  sugars  and  fats.  The  first  two  are  of  vege- 
table origin,  while  the  latter  is  produced  by  vegetables  and 
animals.  The  chief  use  of  this  class  is  to  give  heat  and 
force  to  the  body,  and  constitutes  about  three-fourths  of 
our  food.  Consequently,  if  we  wish  to  develop  our  mus- 
cles, we  must  eat  lean  beef  (nitrogenous) ;  if  we  wish  to 
fortify  ourselves  against  cold,  we  must  eat  fat.  The  car- 
bonaceous foods,  being  fat-formers,  should  not  be  taken  in 
larger  quantities  than  the  economy  requires  by  persons  cor- 
pulently  inclined. 

The  third  class,  the  inorganic  foods — water,  salt,  phos- 
phate of  lime  and  iron,  cannot  in  themselves  support  life, 
yet  we  could  not  live  without  them.  Water  enters  into  the 
composition  of  all  the  body's  tissues.  Salt  is  found  in 
almost  all  our  natural  foods,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantity 
to  supply  the  demand  of  the  system.  Iron  exists  in  both 
animal  and  vegetable  foods  in  sufficient  quantity  to  supply 
the  economy  in  perfect  health.  Phosphate  of  lime  is  also 
supplied  in  both  animal  and  vegetable  foods  in  sufficient 
quantity  when  the  system  is  in  perfect  health ;  and  thus  it 
is  seen  that  each  sort  of  food  must  fulfill  one  or  more  of 
the  body's  requirements  ;  and,  as  a  large  proportion  of  the 


TABLE    OF    WEIGHTS  AND   MEASURES     563 

food  we  consume  must  be  composed  of  carbon  and  hydro- 
gen, and  is  burnt  up  in  the  capillary  tissues  to  create  heat 
and  force,  this  class  represented  by  potatoes,  rice,  oils  and 
sugars  must  be  taken  in  larger  quantities  than  lean  beef, 
eggs,  etc.  Bartholow  says  :  "  The  food  supplies  to  the  or- 
ganism may  be  so  managed  as  to  secure  very  definite  therapeu- 
tical results,  and  by  employment  of  a  special  and  restricted 
method  of  feeding,  cures  may  be  effected  not  attainable  by 
medicinal  treatment," 


TABLE  OF 

WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES 


4  teaspoon fuls  of  liquid =  1  tablespoonful 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  liquid          .         .         .         .  =  j£  gill,  %  cup,  or 

I  wineglassful 
i  tal.lespoonful  of  liquid  .         .  .  =  K  ounce 

1  pint  of  liquid         .         .         «         .  .  =  I  pound 

2  gills  of  liquid =  i  cup  or  }£  pint 

I  kitchen  cup ==  X  Pmt 

I  heaping  quart  of  sifted  flour  .         .         .         .  =   I  pound 

4  cups  of  flour          .         .         .         .         .         .  =  i  quart  or  I  pound 

I  rounded  tablespoonful  of  flour       .         .         .  =   l/z  ounce 

3  cups  of  corn  meal  .         .         .         .         .  =   I  pound 
I  ^  pints  of  corn  meal      .         .         .         .         .  =  I  pound 

i  cup  of  butter         .         .         .         .         .         .  =  yz  pound 

i  pint  of  butter         .         .         .         .         .         .  =  i  pound 

I  tablespoonful  of  butter  .         .         .         .  =  I  ounce 

Butter  the  size  of  an  egg  .         .         .         .         .  =  2  ounces 

Butter  the  size  of  a  walnut        .         .         .         •  =  I  ounce 

1  solid  pint  of  chopped  meat    .         .         .         .  =  I  pound 
lo  eggs    -         ....  .         .  =  I  pound 

A  dash  of  pepper •  —  /4  teaspoonful, 

or  3  good  shakes 

2  cups  of  granulated  sugar        .         .         .         .  =  I  pound 
I  pint  of  granulated  sugar         ,         .         .         .  =  I  pound 

I  pint  of  brown  sugar       .         .         .         .         .  =  13  ounces 
2.yz  cups  of  powdered  sugar    .        .        .        .  =  i  pound 


ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 


The  author  takes  pleasure  in  acknowledging  her  indebted- 
ness for  many  valuable  points  embodied  in  this  work  to : 

Bellows'  Philosophy  of  Eating 

Bartholovv's  Materia  Medica  and  Therapeutics 

Youmans'  Household  Science. 

Bennett's  Nutrition  in  Health  and  Disease 

Dobell's  Diet  and  Regimen 

Lady  Barker's  First  Lessons  in  Principles  of  Cooking 

Dr.  Getchell's  Diet  in  Disease 

Mattieu  Williams'  Chemistry  of  Cooking 

Cook  books  by  Dr.  Kitchener,  Blot,Warne,  Francatelli, 
Gouffe,  Soyer,  Mrs.  Henderson,  Miss  Parloa,  Miss  Leslie, 
Mrs.  Lincoln,  Mrs.  Beeton ;  to  "Margery  Daw  In  the 
Kitchen,"  the  "Buckeye,"  "Ice  Cream  and  Cakes,"  and 
Buckmaster's  Cookery. 


INDEX 


Acknowledgement         564 

Apples,  To  Coddle           516 

Beans,  French                  »'••'• 

Adirondack  Corn  Bread  321 

To  Stew              516 

Kidney                266 

A  pate  Ware                      547 

Apricot  Bavarian  Cream  415 

Lima                    266 

Albumen                           80 

Ice  Cream           447 

Lima,  Dried         266 

Aikathrepta                     543 

Layer  Cake        492 

Puree  of               291 

Allomande  Sauce            522 

Apr!  cote,  Frozen             462 

PurSe  of  Dried     267 

Almonds,  To  Blanch       555 

Artichokes,  French        264 

Puree  of  Lima      291 

To  Glac6         556 

Jerusalem    264 

String                   266 

To  Salt            555 

Aspic  Jelly                      469 

String,  Salad  of   240 

Anchovy  Sauce               523 

Asparagus  in  Ambush    265 

Bear  Meat                       200 

Angel  Food                      488 

Boiled              265 

Steaks                     206 

Angels'  Snow                  431 

Salad               240 

Bearnaise  Sauce             223 

Antidotes  for  Poisons     552 

8oup,Cream  of  24 

Beauregard  Eggs            254 

Apees                              496 

Stewed             265 

Bechamel  Sauce             223 

Apple  Charlotte             414 

Beef                                 82 

Dowdy                  431 

Bacon,  Boiled                 151 

Baked  or  Roasted  in 

Dumplings 

Fried                  151 

Oven                       83 

'    No.  1            426 

Banana  Ice  Cream          447 

Baked,  rib,  with 

No.  2             426 

Bananas                           513 

Yorkshire  Pudding  83 

Jelly                     470 

Frozen              463 

Bouilli                        94 

Meringue              431 

Barbecued  Ham              149 

Cannelon                   91 

Pie                       375 

Barley                              353 

To  Corn,  for  Boiling  102 

Pudding               395 

Boiled                   355 

To  Corn,  for  Drying  101 

Sago                      430 

Soup                          3 

Corned,  to  Boil         102 

Sauce                   223 

Soup,  Cream  of     24 

Corned,  Hash  of        97 

Slump                   432 

Basket,  Frying                656 

Corned,  Pressed        102 

Snow                     432 

Bass,  Fried                        44 

Croquettes                 100 

Sponge                  428 

Bath  Buns                        477 

Dried,  Fricassee  of  103 

Tapioca                 429 

Bavarian  Creams            415 

Dried,  Relish  of       103 

Tart                       376 

Bean  Croquettes              267 

Fillet,  Broiled            87 

Apples                             513 

Polenta                  267 

Fillet,  Larded  with 

To  Bake                515 

Beans  Baked  with  Pork  146 

Mushroom  Sauce    84 

To  Can                  520  1             Butter                   266 

Frizzled                    103 

(565) 

566 


PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


Beef,  Grenadines  of           9 

Beef's  Tongue,  Turkish 

Brandy  Jelly                   468 

Hamburg  Steaks         88 

style                  111 

Peaches             525 

a  la  Mode                    85 

Beet  Salad                       240 

Sauce                 433 

a  la  Mode,  Ragout  of  92 

Beets,  Boiled                    268 

Braising                            81 

Olives                          89 

Birds,  To  Keep  Fresh     202 

Brass  Kettles,  To  Clean  553 

Pickled                     100 

Bird's  Nest  Pudding, 

Bread                                311 

Pot  Roast                     84 

Cold            399 

Boston  Brown        321 

Pressed  No.  1              95 

Hot             390 

Corn                        320 

Pressed  No.  2              96 

Biscuit  G  laces  No.  1         45") 

Corn,  Adirondack  321 

Pressed,  Corned       102 

No.  2         455 

Corn,  Hot                322 

Roast                            82 

Biscuits,  Bread               326 

French                   316 

Rouleau,  en               90 

Egg                    340 

Graham                  321 

Spiced                        94 

Maryland         340 

Milk                       317 

Steak,  Broiled            86 

Potato  No.  1     324 

Milk  with  Potato 

Steak,  Panned            88 

Potato  No.  2    325 

Sponge                 317 

Steak,  Pie                   99 

Rye                   337 

Norwegian             320 

Steak,  Rolled              88 

Soda                 337 

Rye                         319 

Steak,  smothered  in 

Tea  No.  1         323 

Salt  Rising        *     318 

Onions                     87 

Tea  No.  2         324 

Southern  Rice       322 

Stew  with  Dump- 

Virginia          339 

Stirred                    318 

lings                        95 

Blackberries                   515 

Sweet  Potato         319 

Stew  with  Okra          95 

To  Can        521 

Water                     317 

Stuffed,  Stew  of         93 

Blackberry  Flummery  516 

Bread  Biscuit                  326 

Beef  '  s  Heart,  Baked       104 

Jam              523 

Cake                        475 

Heart,  Spiced       104 

Jelly             471 

Doughnuts              314 

Heart,  Stewed      103 

Mush            516 

Omelet                   259 

Heart  with  Veal 

Pie                379 

Sauce                     224 

Stuffing              105 

Pudding       390 

Stuffing                  220 

Kidney,  Saut<§      106 

Sponge         428 

Bread  and  Butter  Pud- 

Kidney, Stewed  105 

Vinegar        543 

ding                              399 

Kidney,  Terrapin 

Blackbird  Pie                213 

Breaded  Chops                115 

style                    106 

Blanc  Mange                   412 

Breakfast  Hominy          354 

Liver,  Braised      135 

Fruit          412 

Relish             124 

Liver,  to  Corn  for 

Blanquette  of  Chicken   183 

Sausage          156 

Drying               106 

Bleeding,  To  Stop           551 

Broccoli                           268 

Liver,  Corned, 

Bluefish,  Fried                 44 

Broma                              543 

To  Frizzle          106 

Bobotee                             98 

Brown  Betty                    433 

Liver,  Dried  Fri- 

Boiling and  Stewing        92 

Fricasse  of  Chicken  171 

cassee  of            103 

Boeuf  en  Rouleau              90 

Sauce  No.  1                224 

Liver,  Fried         107 

Bologna  Sausage             154 

Sauce  No.  2               224 

Tongue,  Braised  110 

Bombe  Glace"                   456 

Sauce  No.  3               225 

Tongue,  Fillets  of  112 

Boned  Chicken               188 

Brunswick  Stew             174 

Tongue,  Larded 

Turkey                 194 

Brushes                            369 

and  Spiced        m 

Bordeaux  Sauce             529 

Brussels  Sprouts              269 

Tongue, 

Boston  Brown  Bread      321 

Buckwheat                      354 

To  Smoke          100 

Brown  Hash          98 

Cakes           329 

Tongue,  Smoked, 

Boudins  &  la  Reine         180 

Buffalo  Steaks                206 

To  Boil              109 

Bouillon                           11 

Buns                                  475 

Tongue  on  Toast  112 

Bouletteg                        294 

Burns                               552 

INDEX 


567 


Butter  Beans                   266 

Cake,  Lady  Fingers        503 

Canned  Pears                 521 

Fairy  or  Nun's     438 

Layer                     492 

Pineapples         5*21 

Maitre  D'  Hotel     229 

Layer,  Apricot      492 

Plums,  Blue       522 

Making                 550 

Layer,  Chocolate  493 

Plums,  Damson  522 

Buttermilk  Cake             483 

Layer,  Peach        494 

Quinces             521 

Griddle  Cakes  336 

Layer,  Raspberry  494 

Raspberries        522 

Layer,  Straw  b'ry  494 

Strawberries      522 

Cabbage,  Boiled              269 

Marble                  487 

Cannelon                         91 

Cold  Slaw    -    241 

Molasses  No.  1      484 

Canning  and  Preserving  510 

Red,  a  la  Fla- 

Molasses  No.  2      485 

Cantaloupe                      515 

mande          270 

Moravian  Sugar  475 

Spiced          527 

Stewed             269 

Plunkets                503 

Caper  Sauce                    525 

Stuffed              270 

Pork                       484 

Capons                             191 

Corned  Beef 

Pound                   4M 

Caramel                          559 

and                269 

Ribbon                  495 

Bavarian  Cream  416 

Cabinet  Pudding             891 

Sand  Tarts             498 

Ice  Cream           452 

Cafe  Parfait                      466 

Scotch                   500 

Sauce                  436 

Cake,  Angel  Food           488 

Short                      837 

Carp,  Stewed                    51 

Apees                     4% 

Short,  Cream        338 

Carpets,  To  Make  Bright  550 

Bread                    475 

Short,  Strawb'ry  413 

Carrots,  Stewed               271 

Buttermilk            483 

Shrewsbury          499 

Casserole  of  Chicken       185 

Chocolate             482 

Snaps,  Ginger       500 

Catsup,  Cucumber          632 

Chocolate  feclaire  602 

Snaps,  Jackson     500 

Mushroom          532 

Cocoanut  Layer  493 

Spice                      i^ 

Tomato  No.  1     533 

Cocoauut  Loaf     487 

Sponge                  488 

Tomato  No.  2     533 

Cookies,  Ginger   497 

Sponge,  Cream     4% 

Tomato,  Cold     534 

Cookies,  Plain      497 

Sunshine               •!-'.' 

Walnut               534 

Cream  Pufis          501 

Wafers,  Lemon     499 

Catsups                            532 

Cup,  or  1,  2,  3,  4     489 

White  Mountain  494 

Cauliflower,  Boiled        272 

Cup,  Plain             486 

Calf  s  Brains                   134 

auGratin  272 

Dominoes              500 

Foot  Jelly             469 

Salad         241 

KgL;s,  without        483 

Head  Cheese        132 

Stewed       272 

Km  it  No.  1             490 

Head,  Dressed 

Cecils                                99 

Kruit  No.  2             490 

No.  1          133 

Celery  au  Jus                  273 

Fruit,  Coffee         492 

No.  2           134 

Root                      273 

Kruit,  Dried          484 

Calicoes,  Dark,  to  starch  553 

Salad                     241 

Gingerbread         485 

To  remove  spots  in  553 

Sauce                    225 

Gingerbread,  Soft  485 

Candies                           509 

Stewed                 273 

Grafton                  482 

Candy,  Cream                 510 

Cellar,  Care  of 

Hickory  Nut         486 

Cream,  Rose        511 

Cereals                             351 

Hoe                        388 

Molasses               510 

Champagne  Sauce           226 

Ice  Cream              493 

Molasses,  Peanut  510 

Charlotte,  Apple              414 

Indian  Loaf          483 

M..liisses,  Walnut  510 

Parisian          415 

Jelly                       494 

Taffy                     509 

Russe             414 

Johnny                   339 

How  to  Pull          559 

Cheese                             363 

Jumbles  No.  1       498 

Canned  Apples                520 

Cake                    876 

Jumbles  No.  2       498 

Blackberries      521 

Cream,  with 

Kisses                    502 

Currants             522 

Noodles            3% 

Lady                      489 

Peaches              521 

Fingers                365 

Golden  Buck       365 

Italian                  132 

568 


PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 


Cheese  Omelet                259 

Chicken,  a  1'Italienne    181  j  Chow  Chow                     528 

Ramakins            366 

In  Jelly             187  ;  Chowder,  Clam                 34 

Souffle"                  363 

Larded  and 

Corn           .        35 

Straws                  365 

Roasted         169 

Fish                  35 

Toasted  or  Scotch 

Livers  en  bro- 

Potato                36 

Rare-bit            364 

chette            183 

Chowders                          31 

Welsh  Rare-bit    364 

a  la  Marengo   173 

Cinnamon  Bun                 478 

Cherries,  To  Can             522 

Omelet             259 

Clam  Chowder                  34 

Cream              512 

Pie,  Baked       184 

Fritters                    62 

Frozen              463 

Pilaff  of            174 

Clams                                 62 

Spiced               527 

Pot-  pie             184 

Fried                        62 

Cherry  Jelly                     472 

Pressed             191 

Pickled                  62 

Pie                        376 

Roasted,  with 

To  Roast                  62 

Pudding               390 

Giblet  Sauce  167 

Stewed                   62 

Tapioca                430 

Salad                 236 

Cocoa                               542 

Water  Ice             459 

Smothered       170 

Nibs                       542 

Chestnuts,  Boiled            274 

Souffle"               185 

From  the  Nibs      543 

Pure"e  of        274 

Soup                   13 

Cocoanut  Cake,  Layer    493 

Sauce              226 

Spring,  Broil'  d  176 

Cake,  Loaf       487 

Stewed          274 

Stewed             172 

Custard             377 

Stuffing          169 

Stuffed  with                            Pudding          400 

With  Brown 

Chestnuts      169 

Coddled  Apples               516 

Sauce          274 

au  Supreme      172 

Codfish  Balls                       48 

Chicken,  To  Clean          165 

a  la  Tartare      176 

Fresh,  To  Boil      42 

Giblets,  To  Clean  167 

Terrapin           180 

Salt,  To  Boil          43 

To  Select              167 

Vol-au-Vent     386 

Salt,  Avith  Cream 

Chicken,  a  la  Be"chamel  182 

Chili  Vinegar                   535 

Sauce                  48 

Blanquette  of  183 

China,  To  Mend               553 

Salt,  Stewed          48 

Boiled              169 

Chocolate                        542 

Cold  Puddings                 399 

Boned               188 

Bavarian  Cream  416 

Cold  Slaw                         241 

Boudins  a  la 

Cake                    482 

Coffee                               539 

Reine            180 

Cake,  Layer       493 

Boiled                   541 

Braised             170 

Caramels  No.  1  509 

French                   540 

Broiled             176 

Caramels  No.  2  509 

Coffee,  Bavarian  Cream  416 

Casserole  of     185 

Eclairs                 502 

Frozen                   466 

Cecils     -           180 

Ice  Cream           449 

Fruit  Cake            492 

Chaud  Froid 

Ice  Cream,  Nea- 

Combinations of  Food, 

of                  182 

politan            453 

Suitable                         560 

Chops               176 

Icing                   504 

Consomme"                          13 

Croquettes        178 

Parfait                457 

Cooks,  Advice  to              357 

Curry  of           175 

Pudding             400 

Corn                                   353 

Cutlets             177 

Chocolates,  Cream          511 

Boiled  on  Cob         275 

Deviled           182 

Chops,  Lamb                    121 

Boiled  in  Husks      275 

Forcemeat       219 

Breaded                 115 

Bread                       320 

Fricassee  of 

Breaded,  with  a 

Bread,Adirondack  321 

Brown           171 

Pur<§e  of  Potatoes  115             Canned,  To  Cook    277 

Fricassee  of 

Broiled                   115             Canned,  Fritters  of  276 

White            171 

Broiled,  with  a  Pu-                  Chowder 

Fried               175 

roe  of  Potatoes  115             Cold                        278 

INDEX 


569 


Corn  Dodgers                   338 

Croquante  of  Peaches    421 

Custard,  Quaking            424 

Dried,                      278 

Raspberries  423 

Rice                  424 

Eat,  How  to             275 

Strawberries  422 

Souffle               425 

Fritters                    275 

Croquettes,  Bean             267  !                 Tapioca             425 

Gems                        331 

Chicken       178    Custards,  Cup                  423 

Griddle  Cakes         337 

Ham             149 

Farina              425 

Hulled             154,806 

Hominy        282 

Oysters                   276 

Macaroni      361    Dandelion  Salad             •_'»_' 

I'udding                 276 

6yster            72    Dandelions,  Boiled         280 

Salad                  242,  278 

Potato                                       Wilted         280 

Corned  Beef                     101 

Rice  No.  1    357 

Desserts                            412 

Beef  and  Cabbage  989 

Rice  No.  2    a57 

Apple  Dowdy     431 

Beef  Hash                97 

Salmon          50 

Apple  Meringue  431 

Beef  s  Liver            106 

Shad  Roe       50 

Apple  Sago         430 

Corn-starch  Custard        423 

Sweetbread  141 

Apple  Slump       432 

Cottage  Pudding              892 

Veal              124 

Apple  Snow        432 

Crab  Apple  Jelly             471 

Crullers                           344 

Bavarian  Cream 

Crab  Salad                       237 

French               345 

Apricot       415 

Crabs                                  58 

German              345 

Chocojate    416 

Boiled                    59 

Crumpets                          827 

Coffee          416 

Deviled                  59 

Cucumber  Catsup            532 

Peach          417 

Soft  Shell                59 

Mad            241' 

Pineapple   417 

Soft,  Fried  in  But- 

Cucumbers, Fried            279 

Plum           417 

ter                         60 

Fri.Ml  in  Batter  279 

Raspberry  417 

Cracked  Whi-nt                 3M 

St.  •  wed  No.  1     278 

Strawberry  418 

Cranberries,  To  Keep      553 

Sh-wi-.l  N.I.  -J      -J79 

Blanc  Mange       412 

Cranberry  Jelly                472 

Cup.  or  1,  -2,  :'..  1  dike,      486 

Blanc  Mange 

Pie  No.  1        377 

Cup  Cu-'.nnls                     423 

Fruit  412 

Pie  No.  2        377 

Currant  Jelly                   472 

Brown  Betty        433 

Sauce              226 

Jelly  Sauce         227 

Cake,  Cream  Pie  413 

>t,-wcd           517 

Sponge               429 

Charlotte,  Apple  414 

Tarts               877 

Currants 

Charlotte, 

Craw-  Fish                          60 

Dried,  To  Clean  557 

Parisian  415 

Civ.-nn  Cake  Pie 

Fresh,  To  Serve  514 

Charlotte  Russe  414 

Candy                   510    Currants  and  Raspber- 

Cream 

('andy,  Rose         511 

ries,  Caniu-d                 522 

American  418 

Cherri.-s                512 

Curry,  Chicken                175 

Fried          418 

Chocolates            511 

Mutton                  116 

Hamburg  419 

Dates                    511 

Sauce                     227 

Italian       419 

Pie                         377 

rusk  ;"»  la  Creme                49 

Orange       419 

Puffs                      501 

Custard,  Cocoanut          377 

Snow          420 

Salad  Dressing     236 

l.'Mii'in                379 

Tapioca     420 

Sauce                   226 

I.emon,  Grand- 

Velvet      420 

Sauce,  Pudding    436 

mother's        379 

Croquante  of 

Sponge  Cake        496 

Sweet  Potato    383 

Oranges           422 

Tomato  Sauce      332                    White  Potato    3S4 

Peaches           421 

Cream,  To  Whip               557 

Custard,  Bak.-.l                 422 

Raspberries     422 

rrc;ii;iy  Sauce                    437 

Corn-starch       423 

Strawberries    422 

Croquante  of  Oranges     422 

French              423 

Custard,  Baked  422 

570 


PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


Desserts,  Custard 

Dominoes                         500 

English  Muffins                327 

Corn-starch  423 

Doughnuts                        343 

Plum  Pudding    396 

French          423 

Bread              344 

Walnuts,  Glace  556 

Quaking        424 

Drawn  Butter                  227 

Rice              424 

Dress,  Cooks'                    368 

Fairy  or  Nun's  Butter  438 

Souffle"           425 

Dressing,  Salad                235 

Fancy  Cakes                     480 

Tapioca         425 

Salad,  Cream  236 

Farina                        352,  355 

Custards,  Cup      423 

Salad,  French  235 

Custards               425 

Farina425 

Salad,  without 

Fat                                       79 

Dumplings 

Oil                 235 

To  Clarify                  558 

Apple  No.  1  426 

Mayonnaise     234 

To  Test  Heat  of         555 

Apple  No.  2  426 

Drinks                               539 

Fibrin                                79 

Peach            427 

Drowned.To  Resuscitate 

Fire,  Care  of                   367 

Rice              427 

the                                 551 

Fish                                   41 

Floating  Island  433 

Ducklings,  to  Roast         197 

To  Boil                         42 

Gooseberry  Fool  433 

Ducks,  Roasted                196 

To  Broil                      44 

Orange  Cake  with 

Ragout  of            197 

Chowder                     35 

Vanilla  Sauce  413 

Salmi  of               198 

Craw                            60 

Orange  Float      434 

Wild                     209 

a  la  Creme                 49 

Pain  Perdu         434 

Dutched  Lettuce             284 

Croquettes                  50 

Rice,  Meringue  434 

To  Fry                          43 

Rice  Souffle1         435 

Earthen   and    Stone- 

alaReine                  49 

Snow,  Angels'     431 

ware                                548 

Salad                          238 

Snow  Balls         435 

Eels                                      53 

Sauce                        228 

Sponge,  Apple    428 

Fried                         54 

Sauces                      221 

Blackberry  428 

Stewed                       53 

Shell                           55 

Currant        429 

Egg  Biscuits                      310 

Flannel  Cakes                 329 

Lemon         429 

Egg-Plant,  Baked            281 

Floating  Island               433 

Orange        429 

Fried  No.  1     281 

Flounders,  Fried               44 

Raspberry    429 

Fried  No.  2    281 

Foamy  Sauce                    437 

Strawberry  429 

Eggs                                     253 

Food,  Combinations  of   560 

Strawberry  Short 

Baked                     253 

Requirements       560 

Cake                 413 

Bcauregard             254 

Foods,  Carbonaceous      562 

Tapioca,  Apple  429 

a  la  Bechamel        254 

Fat  Forming        562 

Cherry         440 

Boiled                      255 

Inorganic             552 

Orange        430 

Breakfast                255 

Nitrogenous          562 

Peach          430 

a  la  Cr6me              255 

Forcemeat  Balls                12 

Raspberry  430 

Deviled                  256 

Chicken       219 

Strawberry  431 

Fondue                   256 

Ham              219 

Tout  Fait             435 

Fried                        257 

Forcemeats  and 

Deviled  Chicken             182 

in  Marinade            257 

Stuffings                          219 

Crabs                    59 

sur  le  Plat               257 

French  Artichokes          204 

Eggs                    256 

Poached                 258 

Bread                   316 

Halibut                50 

Salad                        242 

Custard                423 

Lobster                 57 

Sauce                       228 

Dressing               235 

Oysters                 71 

Scrambled              258 

Fritters                341 

Dinner-Giving  for 

Stuffed                     258 

Honey                 549 

Sensible  People            247 

Endive                             281 

Rolls                      323 

Dock,  Sour  or  Narrow     280 

Salad                     242 

Fricandeau  of  Veal         126 

INDEX 


571 


Fricandelles  of  Veal       125 

Fruits,  To  Can                 519 

Green  Gooseberry  Pie     378 

Fried  Cream                    418 

Frozen                  462 

Grape  Jelly           473 

Fritters,  Doughnuts, 

To  Glac6                566 

Peas                       290 

Crullers,  etc.  341 

To  Preserve          522 

Tomato  Pickles    529 

Canned  Corn    276 

To  Serve,  Fresh    513 

Grenadines  of  Beef          91 

Clam                   62 

Stewed                  517 

Griddle  Cakes                 328 

Corn                   275 

Fry,  How  to                     555 

Bread,  Stale       335 

French              341 

Buckwheat        329 

Fruit                  341 

Galantine  of  Turkey       195 

Buttermilk         336 

Japanese           342 

Veal           130 

Corn                    337 

Oyster                 72 

Game                               202 

Flannel              329 

Parsnip             289 

Care  of                  202 

Flannel,  Quick  335 

Plain                 341 

Game  Pie                        214 

Graham              330 

Quecu                343 

Gathered  Crumbs           549 

Indian                335 

Salsify               301 

Gathering  the  Perfume 

Oat  Meal            334 

Snow                 342 

of  Plants                       550 

Rice              329,  334 

Frizzled  Beef                   103 

Geese  and  Goslings         198 

Wheat,  Granu- 

Frogs                                54 

Gelatine                             1 

lated             330 

Fried                        64 

Gelatine  Icing                 505 

Grits  or  Small  Hominy   282 

Stewed                    64 

Jellies               467 

Fried                    282 

Frozen  Apricots              462 

Gems                                331 

Grouse,  To  Broil              212 

Bananas              463 

Corn                        331 

To  Roast              -11 

Cherries              463 

Graham                  832 

Guinea  Fowls                  199 

Mixed  Fruits 

Graham,  with 

Fricassee  of        199 

No.  1                  463 

Dates                   332 

Pot-pie                200 

Mixed  Fruits 

Graham,  Hygienic  332 

Gumbo  Fillet  Powder     659 

No.  2                464 

General  Satisfaction        378 

Oranges               464 

Ginger  Cookies                491 

Halibut,  Broiled               45 

Peaches              464 

Snaps                   500 

Deviled               50 

I  'in  nipple             464 

Gingerbread                    485 

Fried                   44 

Raspberries        465 

GlacS,  How  to                  556 

Pickled               52 

Strawberries        465 

Golden  Buck                   365 

Steak  a  la 

Frozen  Fruits                    462 

Goose,  To  Roast               198 

Flamaude        45 

Frozen  Coffee                  466 

Stuffed  with 

Ham,  To  Bake                  148 

Custard                454 

Sauerkraut         199 

Balls                   90,  150 

Orange  Souffle"     457 

Wild                       210 

Barbecued              149 

Punch                  465 

Gooseberries,  Stewed      517 

Boiled                     147 

Tea                      466 

Gooseberry  Fool              433 

Boiled  in  Cider      147 

Frozen  Puddings             408 

Gooseberry  Pie,  Green    378 

Broiled                   148 

Frozen  Soufllrs                457 

Ripe      379 

Croquettes              1  w 

Fruit  Blanc  Mange         412 

Grafton  Cake                   482 

Forcemeat             219 

Cake  No.  1             490 

Graham  Bread                321 

Fried                      148 

Cake  No.  2             490 

Gems                  332 

Omelet                    259 

Fritters                    341 

Griddle  Cakes    330 

Sandwiches            150 

Jollies                     470 

Grape  Jam                       52  1 

and  Eggs                149 

Salad  Dressing 

Jelly                      473 

and  Egg  Sand- 

No. 1                    243 

Water-Ice             460 

wiches                 150 

No.  2                      244 

Grapes,  To  Serve             514 

Hams  and  Shoulders, 

Fruits                             5i:? 

Gravies                             221 

To  cure                         151 

572 


PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 


Hamburg  Cream              419 

Ice  Cream,  Philadelphia 

Jelly,  Grape                      473 

Steaks               88 

Pineapple           450 

Grape,  Green          473 

Hard  Sauce                      4S8 

Pistachio            451 

Lemon                     467 

Haricot  of  Mutton           119 

Raspberry          451 

Mixed                     468 

Hash,  Baked  No.  1            96 

Strawberry         452 

Orange                    467 

Baked  No.  2           97 

Vanilla              452 

Peach                      473 

Boston  Brown        98 

Neapolitan                 452 

Pear                         474 

Corn  Beef              97 

Caramel             452 

Plum                        474 

Plain                      97 

Chocolate          453 

Port  Wine               467 

Sheep's  head        120 

Vanilla              453 

Quince                    474 

On  Toast                97    Ice  Cream  Cake               493 

Raspberry               474 

Hashes  and  Warmed-              Ice  Creams                       445 

Rock  Work  of        468 

over  Meats                     96    Iced  Cake                   .      456 

Strawberry             474 

Heart,  Beef's,  Baked       104 

Icing,  Boiled                    505 

Wine                       467 

Beefs,  Spiced      104 

Chocolate              504 

Jelly  Bag,  To  Make          558 

Beefs,  Stewed     103 

Gelatine                505 

To  Wash          369 

Beef's,  with  Veal 

Orange                  504 

Jelly  Cake                        494 

Stuffing            105 

Plain                     504 

Jelly,  To  fill  Oranges 

Herring,  Fried                  44 

Strawberry           504 

with                                 555 

Hickory-nut  Cake           486 

Icings  or  Frostings          504 

Jerusalem  Artichokes     264 

Hoe  Cake                          338 

Indian  Griddle  Cakes     335 

Pickled  264 

Hominy                             354 

Loaf  Cake            483 

Johnny  Cake                    339 

Boiled                  281 

Pudding             -  393 

Jolly  Boys                         342 

Breakfast             354 

Ink  Stains,  To  Remove  552 

Jumbles  No.  1                   498 

Croquettes            282 

Intemperance                  561 

No.  2                   498. 

Muffins                 326 

Intestines,  Hog's, 

Hot  Corn  Bread               322 

To  Clean                       153 

Kale                                    282 

Hot  Pot                             117 

Irish  Stew                        119 

Kettles,  Brass,  To  Clean  553 

Hot  Puddings                  389 

Iron  Mould,  To  Remove  552 

Soup                     2 

How                                   554 

Iron  Ware                        547 

Kidney  Beans                  266 

Huckleberry  Pie              379 

Italian  Cheese                 132 

Kidney  Saute"                    106 

Hulled  Corn              354,  355 

Cream                  419 

Stewed                 105 

Hygienic  Graham  Gems  332 

Terrapin  style    106 

Jackson  Snaps                 500 

Kidneys,  Sheep's  en  bro- 

Ice  Cream 

Jam,  Blackberry             523 

chette  No.  1  120 

Philadelphia 

Grape                       524 

No.  2  121 

Alaska  Bake      455 

Jellied  Veal                     129 

Kisses                                502 

Apricot               447 

Jellies                               467 

Kitchen  and  Pantry,  In 

Banana               447 

Jelly,  Apple                     470 

the                                  544 

Biscuit                448 

Aspic                      469 

Kitchen  Utensils, 

Bisque                448 

Blackberry             471 

Agate  Ware                547 

Brown  Bread     448 

Brandy                   468 

Earthen  and  Stone 

Burnt  Almond  447 

Calf's  Foot              469 

Ware                       548 

Caramel             448 

Cardinal                  468 

Iron  and  Steel  Ware  547 

Chocolate           449 

Cherry          .           472 

Miscellaneous           548 

Coffee                 449 

Crab  Apple             471 

Tin  Ware                   515 

Lemon                450 

Cranberry               472 

Wooden  Ware           546 

Orange               450 

Currant                    472 

Knives,  To  Wash              369 

Peach                 450 

Damson                   473 

Knuckle  of  Veal              128 

INDEX 


573 


Kohl-rabi                         271 

Lobster  Sauce                 228 

Meats,  To  Thaw              558 

Krapfen                             479 

Scalloped                57 

Menus                              249 

Vol-au-Vent         386 

Mildew,  To  take  out       553 

Lady  Cake                        489 

with  Cecil  Sauce    58 

Milk  Bread                      317 

Fingers                  503 

with  Cream  Sauce  58 

with  Potato 

Lamb                                121 

Lobsters,  To  Boil  and 

Sponge  317 

Baked  or  Roasted 

Open                55 

Milk,  To  Scald                558 

Quarter  of           121 

Lyonnaise  Potatoes         296 

Mince  Meat                     381 

Chops                      121 

Mint  Sauce                      229 

Larding                             554 

Macaroni                          358 

Mirlitons                          382 

With  Truffles     554 

Baked              359 

Mixed  Fruits,  Frozen 

I.nnloons                           554 

Boiled,  Plain   361 

No.  1    463 

Lay  i-r  Cake                        492 

Cream             359 

No.  2    464 

Lemon  Butter                  549 

Croquettes       861 

Pickles                 527 

Custard               879 

al'Italienne     358 

Mock  Mince  Pie              382 

Jelly                    467 

Timbale           362 

Turtle  Soup             16 

Pickle                 530 

with  Brown 

Molasses  Cake  No.  1        4H4 

Pie                      380 

Sauce            362 

Cake  No.  2        485 

Sauce                   438 

with  Cream 

Candy              510 

Sponge                429 

Sauce            361 

Candy,  Peanut  510 

Wafers                499 

with  Tomato 

Candy.Walnut  510 

Water-Ice            460 

Sauce            360 

Pie                    382 

Lemons,  To  Keep             553 

Mackerel                          41 

Montrose  Sauce              439 

U'iu'1  Soup                            6 

Salt,  Broiled     45 

Moravian  Sugar  Cake     475 

Lentils                               282 

Madeira  Sauce                438 

Mould,  Iron.To  Remove  552 

Puree  of 

Maitred'  Hotel  Sauce      229 

To  Save  a  Library 

Rico  and              283 

Mandarin  Salad              244 

from                  553 

Rolls                    283 

Mangoes                          531 

Muffins,  Bread                 333 

Lettuce,  Dutched             284 

Marble  Cake                   487 

Cream                332 

Suliiil                    242 

Marbled  Meat                 186 

English               327 

Lima  Beans                     266 

Marll)orough  Pie             380 

Hominy  or  G  rits  326 

Dried           2G6 

Marmalade,  Orange        524 

Plain                  326 

Puree  of      291 

Peach          524 

Quick                 331 

Linen,  To  Remove  Ink 

Plum          525 

Rice                    326 

Stains  from          552 

Quince        525 

Muffins,  Gems,  etc., 

To  Remove  Iron 

Marmalades  and  Jams   523 

Raised                          326 

Mould  from      552 

Maryland  Biscuit             340 

Mush,  Blackberry           516 

Liver,  Beef's,  To  Corn    10G 

Mayonnaise  Dressing      234 

Oatmeal                355 

Braised                 135 

..f  Salmon            239 

Rye                       355 

Broiled                  136 

of  Sweetbreads  237 

Mushrooms                      284 

Rolls                      137 

Measures,  Table  of 

Baked                   286 

Stewed                   136 

Weights  and                 563 

Broiled                  286 

and  Bacon             136    Meat,  Tressed  No.  1           95 

Canned,  To  Stew  286 

and  Onions            136 

Pressed  No.  2           96 

Catsup                   532 

w  i  t  h  B  ro  w  n  Sauce  1  37 

Rissoles                  100 

Dried                     285 

Lobster  Chops                   f>7    Meat  Sauces  and  Gravies  221 

Sauce                    229 

Deviled                  57 

Meats,  Chemistry  of         79 

Stewed  No.l         285 

Farci                        56 

Heat  Applied  to    80 

Stewed  No.  2        285 

Salad                     238 

Loss  of  Weight  in  81 

with  Cream  Sauce  227 

574 


PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 


Mussels  or  Soft  Shell 
Clams                              61 
Mussels,  Fried                   61 

Onion  Stuffing                 220 
Onions,  Baked,  Boiled  288 
Boiled  in  Soit 

]  Oysters,  Broiled  with 
Brown  Sauce    67 
Creamed               66 

Stewed                  62 

Water               261 

Deviled                71 

Mutton                              112 

Fried                    288 

Fricassee  of         66 

Baked,  Leg  of    113 

Pickled               530 

Fried,  New  York 

Boiled,  Leg  of    113 

Stewed                 2S9 

and  Southern    69 

Braised,  Leg  of  114    Opossums                         208 

Fried,  Philadel- 

Chinese              118 

OrangeBaskets,To  Make  556 

phia                   68 

Curry  of              116 

Cakes,  with 

Kromeskies  of     73 

Haricot  of           119 

Vanilla  Sauce  413 

Macaroni,  and     70 

en  Papillote        116 

Cream                 419 

Panned                67 

Ragout  of           118 

Float                    434 

Pickled                 73 

Saddle  of            114 
Scallop  of           117 

Icing                    504 
Jelly                     467 

Scalloped             69 
Served  in  Block 

Shoulder  of        114 

Marmalade         524 

of  Ice                64 

Venison  Style     113 

Salad                   244 

Served  on  Half- 

Nasturtium  Blossom 

Sauce                  439 

Shell                 64 

Salad                              242 

Sherbet               462 

Stewed  No.  1        65 

Nevada  Mountain 

Souffl6,  Frozen  457 

Stewed  No.  2        65 

Honey                            549 

Sponge               429 

Tripe,  and           109 

Noodles                           366 

Tapioca               430 

VolauVentof  386 

Norwegian  Bread           320 
Nougat  No.  1,  No.  2         512 
Nun's  Butter                   438 

Water-ice            460 
Oranges                             514 
Filled  with  Jelly  555 

Paganini  Tartlets          383 
Pain  Perdu                       434 

Frozen                 464 

Pancakes                        336 

Oat  Meal                          355 

To  Glace"              556 

Pantry  and  Kitchen       554 

Griddle  Cakes  334 

Osmazome                     1,  79 

Parisian  Charlotte          415 

Mush                355 

Oven,  To  Heat                 367 

Parker  House  Rolls        322 

Oats                                     353 

Oxford  Sausage                154 

Parsnip  Fritters               289 

Oiled  Pickles                    528 

Oyster  Plant,  or  Salsify  301 

Parsnips                            263 

Okra,  Boiled                    287 

Oyster  Croquettes             72 

Boiled  with 

Stewed,  with  rice  287 

Filling  for  Poultry  74 

Cream  Sauce  289 

Stewed,  with 

Fritters                    72 

Fried                 289 

Tomatoes           287 

Loaf                          71 

Stewed              290 

Olive  Sauce                     229 

Patties                     388 

Partridges,  To  Broil        212 

Omelet,  Bengal               259 

Salad                       239 

To  Roast       211 

Bread                   259 

Sauce                      230 

Paste,  Plain,  with 

Cheese                 259 

Saute                        70 

Butter                 373 

Chicken              259 

Oyster  Crab  Salad            239 

Plain,  Half  and 

Ham                     259 

Oysters                                64 

Half                    374 

Jelly                    259 

Baked                    68 

Plain  with  Lard  374 

Parsley               259 

a  la  Bechamel       66 

Potato                    375 

Plain                    258 

Broiled,   New 

Puff                        371 

Potato                  259 

York  Style          68 

Puff,  to  Bake         372 

Spanish               260 

Broiled,  Phila- 

Suet                       375 

Omelet  Souffle"                 260 

delphia  Style      68 

Pastry  Bag                        557 

Onion  Juice                     156 

Broiled  on  the 

Pastry  and  Pies               371 

Sauce                    230 

Gridiron             67 

Pate  de  Foies  Gras         387 

INDEX 


575 


Patties 

BH 

Pickles,  Mangoes            531 

To  Bake 

388 

Mixed                 527 

To  Fill 

338 

Oiled                   528 

Peach  Bavarian  Cream 

417 

Tomatoes,  Green  529 

Dumplings 

427 

Sweet                  626 

Jelly 

473 

Pickling 

Layer  Cake 

494 

Pie,  Apple                      375 

Marmalade 

524 

Apple  Meringue      383 

Meringue 

383 

Blackberry              379 

Pie 

M 

Blackbird                213 

Sauce 

.;:;.< 

Cherry                     376 

Sponge 

428 

Chicken,  Baked      184 

Tapioca 

430 

Chicken  Pot            IM 

Peaches 

514 

Cranberry  No.  1      377 

Brandy 

525 

Cranberry  No.  2      877 

To  Can 

521 

Cream                     379 

Frozen 

464 

Game                       214 

Spiced 

526 

Gooseberry,  Green  VB 

Pea  Fowls 

200 

Gooseberry,  Ripe    379 

Pear  Jelly 

474 

Guinea  Pot             200 

Pears 

514 

Huckleberry           379 

To  Bake 

517 

Lemon                    380 

To  Can 

r.2i 

Marlborough           380 

Spiced 

527 

Mince                       381 

Stewed 

517 

Mock  Mince            382 

Peas,  Canned,  to  Cook 

291 

Molasses                  382 

Green 

290 

Peach                      383 

Puree  of 

291 

Pigeon                     210 

Pur6e  of  Drit-<l 

268 

Plum                       879 

I  'u  nte  of  Split 

268 

Pumpkin                 884 

Pepper  Grass 

242 

Rabbit                      208 

IVpprr  Pot 

20 

Rabbit,  Baked         184 

Perfume  of  Plants 

550 

Raspberry               379 

Pheasant,  To  Broil 

212 

Rhubarb                  385 

To  Roast 

211 

Shepherd's              117 

Phosphate  of  Lime 

562 

Squirrel                    184 

Pickle,  Lemon 

530 

Strawberry              379 

Pickled  Artichokes 

264 

Veal                         127 

Clams 

65 

Veal  Pot                   127 

Halibut 

52 

Washington            385 

Onions 

630 

Pies,  Pastry  and              372 

Oysters 

73 

Pig,  Sucking,To  Carve    143 

Salmon 

51 

Sucking.To  Prepare  142 

Sturgeon 

52 

Sucking,  To  Roast     142 

Walnuts 

530 

Pigeon  Pie                       210 

Pickled  Beef 

100 

Pigeons                           200 

Pork 

151 

Larded  and 

Pickles,  Cucumbers, 

Broiled              211 

Small 

530 

Potted                 200 

Pigeons,  Roasted  200 

Pig's  Feet  Soused  145 

Pilaff  of  Chicken  174 

Pineapple  514 

Bavarian  Cream  417 

Water  Ice  461 

Pineapples,  To  Can  521 

Frozen  464 

Piquante  Sauce  231 

Plain  Cakes,  Buns,  etc.,  475 

Planked  Shad  47 

White  Fish  47 

Plovers,  To  Roast  212 

Plum  Bavarian  Cream  417 

Jelly  474 

Marmalade  525 

Pie  379 

Plum  Pudding,  English  396 

Pudding,  Plain  396 

Plums,  Blue,  To  Can  522 

Damson,  To  Can  522 

Spiced  527 

Plunkets  503 

Poisons,  Antidotes  for  552 

Poke  Stalks  291 
Pomegranate  Water  Ice  4f>l 

Pomegranates  515 

Pone  339 

Pop  Overs  333 

Pork  142 

Beans,  and  146 

Cake  484 

Chops  145 

Roast  Leg  of  144 

Roast  Loin  of  144 

To  Pickle  152 

Selecting  142 

Tenderloins  146 

Port  Wine  Sauce  230 

Potato  Biscuit  No.  1  324 

Biscuit  No.  2  325 

Chowder  36 

Croquettes  294 

Omelet  259 

Paste  375 

Puff  293 

Salad  243 

SoufflS  2:<8 

Stuffing  220 


576                     PHILADELPHIA    COOK  BOOK 

Potatoes                            262    Puddings 

Puddings 

Baked                298 

Cold 

Hot 

Baked  with 

Bird's  Nest       399  j                  French  Fruit  394 

Meat               298 

Bread  and 

Huckleberry    390 

a  la  Bechamel  295 

Butter           399 

Indian  Baked  393 

Boiled                292 

Cocoanut          400 

Indian 

Boiled  in  Skins  292 

Cream  Choco- 

Steamed        393 

Fried                 2% 

late                400  i                   Long  Ago         394 

Fried,  French  2% 

Cream  Cocoa-                          New  Century   394 

au  Gratin          294 

nut                401 

Peach               395 

Hashed             295 

Cream  Corn 

Plum,  English  396 

Lyonnaise         296 

Starch           401 

Plum,  Plain     396 

Mashed             293 

Dandy              401 

Raspberry         390 

Puree  of             299 

Gelatine           402 

Roly  Poly 

Scalloped          295 

Ileston              403 

No.  1           397 

Steamed            292 

Lemon             404 

No.  2           397 

Stewed              293 

Marlborough   403 

Saratoga           395 

Stuffed               298 

Newport           403 

Strawberry       390 

Swelled             297 

Orange              404 

Suet                   398 

Sweet,  Boiled   299 

Quaking           404 

Sweet  Potato    397 

Sweet,  Fried     300 

Queen  of  Ail   405 

Tapioca            398 

Sweet,  Roasted  299 

Queen  Mab      405 

Wafer               398 

Sweet,  Roasted 

Royal  Diplo- 

Puddings and  Desserts  389 

under  Meat    300 

matic            406 

Puff  Paste                        371 

Sweot,  Warmed 

Snow                407    Pumpkin  Baked             300 

over               300 

Wigwam           407                     pie                     334 

Poultry                              165 

Frozen                    408                    Preserved         523 

Care  of                167 

Iced  Cabinet    408  |  Punch  Frozen                  465 

To  Clean              165 

Iced  Rice  with 

Roman                 4G6 

To  Kill                165 

a  Compote  of 

Pur6e  of  Beans                291 

To  Pick                165 

Oranges        411 

Beans,  Dried    268 

To  Select             167 

Montrose      409 

Beans,  Lima     291 

To  Singe             165 

My  Queen        410 

Chestnuts         274 

To  Thaw              167 

Nesselrode       410 

Lentils              268 

Pound  Cake                     489 

Hot                          389 

Peas                  291 

Powder,  Gumbo  Fillet    559 

Amber              389 

Peas,  Dried       268 

Racahout            543 

Apple                395 

Peas,  Split        268 

Prairie  Fowls,  To  Broil  212 

Baba                 391 

Potatoes            299 

To  Roast  211 

Batter                389 

Sorrel                 302 

Preserved  Citron             523 

Batter  with 

Fruits              522 

Cherries        390 

Quail,  Broiled                  212 

Pumpkin        523 

Bird's  Nest       390 

Roasted                 211 

Watermelon 

Blackberry       390    Quaking  Custard             424 

Rind            523 

Cabinet            390  |  Quick  Muffins,  Waffles, 

Preserving                       522 

Cottage            392 

etc.                                  331 

Prunes,  To  Stew              517 

Cousin  Caro- 

Quince Jelly                    474 

Pudding,  Corn                 276 

line's             392 

Marmalade         525 

Pudding  Sauces              436 

Date                   395 

Quinces,  To  Can              521 

Puddings,  Cold                399 

Fig                   394 

Spiced             627 

INDEX 


577 


Rabbit,  Broiled               207  j  Richmond  Maids  of 

Salad,  Turnip  Tops         242 

Fricassee  of       207 

Honor 

3S5 

Veal                     237 

Panned              207 

Rissoles 

100 

Watercress          242 

Pie,  Baked         184 

Roasting                     80, 

n 

Salad  Dressing                235 

Pie,  Pot              208 

Robert  Sauce 

230 

dressing,  Cream  236 

Rabbits  or  Hares              207 

Rolls 

322 

Dressing,  French  235 

To  Select  207 

Roman  Punch 

466 

Dressing,  Fruit 

Racahout                          543 

Rose,  Perfume  of 

550 

No.  1  243 

Powder,  To 

Rusk 

01 

No.  2  244 

Make          513 

Ruta  Baga 

MM 

Dressing,  Mayon- 

Raccoons                         208 

Rye 

S>3 

naise                  234 

Radishes                          801 

Biscuit 

837 

Dressing,  with- 

Ragout of  Beef  a  la  Mode  92 

Bread 

319 

out  Oil                296 

Duck                197 

Mush 

855 

Salads                             233 

Duck,  Wild     201 

Salamander                    559 

Mutton           118 

Salad,  Apple 

244 

To  Use         559 

Rail  Birds                        213 

Apricot 

244 

Sally  Lunn                      327 

Raspberries                     515 

Asparagus  Tops 

240 

Salmi  of  Duck                198 

To  Can         522 

Banana 

244 

Duck,  Wild      201 

Frozen         465 

Beans,  String 

240 

Squab               201 

Raspberry  Bavarian 

Beets 

240 

Salmon,  Broiled               45 

Cream         417 

Cauliflower 

241 

Croquettes            50 

Jelly                474 

Celery 

241 

Mayonnaise  of    239 

Layer  Cake    494 

Chicken 

236 

Pickled                51 

Pie                  879 

Coru 

242 

Smoked,  Broil'd  48 

Sponge            429 

Crab 

237 

Steaks,  Boiled      42 

Tapioca           430 

Cucumber 

241 

Salsify,  Boiled                 301 

Vinegar           543 

Dandelion 

242 

Fritters               301 

Water  Ice        461 

Egg 

242 

Salt                                   562 

Reed  Birds,  To  Roast      213 

Endive 

242 

Salted  Almonds              555 

Refrigerator,  Care  of      369 

Fish 

m 

Samp,  or  Breakfast 

Rhubarb  Pie                    885 

Lettuce 

242 

Hominy                        354 

Stewed             518 

Lobster, 

2ta 

Sand  Tarts                       494 

Ribbon  Cake                    495 

Macedoine 

242 

Saratoga  Chips                297 

Rice                                 354 

Mandarin 

244 

Pudding            395 

Boiled                     356 

Nasturtium 

Sauces 

Boiled,  Italian 

Blossoms 

242 

Meat  and  Fish           221 

Style                     357 

Orange 

244 

Allemande          222 

Border,  To  Make  £56 

Oyster 

239 

Anchovy             223 

Croquettes  No.  1     357 

Oyster  Crab 

239 

Apple 

Croquettes  No.  2     357 

Peach 

244 

Bearnaise            223 

Custards                  424 

Peppergrass 

242 

Bechamel            223 

Dumplings              427 

Potato 

243 

Bordeaux            529 

Griddle  Cakes,329,  334 

Salmon 

239 

Bread                   224 

Lentils,  and           283 

Shad  Roe 

239 

Brown  No.  1         224 

Meringue                434 

Shrimp 

240 

Brown  No.  2        224 

Muffins                    326 

Sorrel 

242 

Brown  No.  3        225 

Souffle                     435 

Sweetbread 

287 

Caper                  225 

Waffles                   334 

Tomato 

243 

Celery                 225 

578 


PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 


Sauces 

Sauces 

Shrimps,  Boiled                 61 

Meat  and  Fish 

Pudding 

Silks,  To  Wash                 550 

Champagne         226 

Peach                  439 

Sinks,  To  Clean               369 

Chestnut              226 

Soft  Custard        437 

Skunks                              208 

Cranberry  *       226 

Vanilla                440 

Smelts,  Fried                     43 

Cream                  226 

Vinegar               440 

Smoking  Meats                 151 

Cream,  Mush- 

Wine                   440 

Snipes,  To  Roast               212 

room                 227 

Sauerkraut                       270 

Snow  Balls                        435 

Currant  Jelly      227 

Sausage                             153 

Cream                     420 

Curry                    227 

Bologna               154 

Fritters                    342 

Drawn  Butter     227 

Breakfast             156 

Pudding                  407 

Egg                        228 

To  Cook               154 

Soda  Biscuit                      337 

Espagnole            228 

Oxford                 154 

Soda  and  Quick  Biscuit  337 

Fish                      228 

Stuffer                 153 

Soft  Custard                      437 

Hollandaise         228 

Summer              155 

Soft  Gingerbread             485 

Lobster                228 

Save,  What  to,  and  How 

Soft  Shell  Crabs                 59 

Maitre  d'  H6tel  229 

to  Use  it                         157 

Fried        60 

Mint                     229 

Scalloped  Lobster             57 

Sorrel,  Pur<§e  of               302 

Mushroom           229 

Oysters              69 

Salad                     242 

Olive                    229 

Potatoes          295 

Soup,  Albert                      10 

Onion                   229 

Scallops                            61 

Barley                         3 

Oyster                  230 

Fried                   61 

Bean,  Black              3 

Piquante              231 

Stewed                61 

Bean,  Dried              4 

Port  Wine            230 

Schmier-Kase                  366 

Bean,  Dried,  with- 

Robert                230 

Scotch  Cakes                    500 

out  Meat                4 

Shad  Roe             231 

Rare-bit                3<J4 

Bouillon                   11 

Shrimp                231 

Shad,  Baked                     46 

Calf's  Head              12 

Supreme             231 

Broiled                        44 

Chicken  No.  1          13 

Tartare                232 

To  Cure  and  Smoke  47 

Chicken  No.  2          13 

Tomato                232 

Planked                     47 

Clam  No.  1                30 

Tomato,  Cream  232 

Shad-Roe  Croquettes        50 

Clam  No.  2                31 

White                  232 

Salad               239 

Clear,  with  Crou- 

Worcestershire, 

Sauce               231 

tons                         4 

Imitation  of    535 

Sheep's  Head,  Dressed    120 

Clear,  with  Vege- 

Pudding 

Head  Hash         120 

tables                      5 

Brandy                436 

Kidneys  en  bro- 

Consomme"                13 

Caramel              435 

chette  No.  1     120 

Cream  of  Aspara- 

Cream                 436 

No.  2     121 

gus                         24 

Creamy               437 

Tongues              120 

Cream  of  Barley      24 

Fairy  or  Nun's 

Tongues,  To  Boil 

Cream  of  Bean         26 

Butter               438 

Smoked           120 

Cream  of  Celery      24 

Foamy                437 

Shepherd's  Pie                 117 

Cream  of  Cheese     25 

Hard                    438 

Sherbets                           458 

Cream  of  Corn         25 

Lemon                438 

Short  Cakes                      337 

Cream  of  Fish           30 

Madeira               438 

Cream          338 

Cream  of  Pea  No.  1  26 

Montrose             439 

Shrewsbury  Cakes           499 

Cream  of  Pea  No.  2  27 

Orange                439 

Shrimp  Salad                   240 

Cream  of  Potato      27 

Our  Cooking 

Sauce                  231 

Cream  of  Rice          27 

School              440 

Shrimps                              60 

Cream  of  Sago         28 

INDEX 


579 


Soup,  Cream  of  Salmon    31    Soup,  To  Clarify 

Strawberry  Parfait          457 

Cream  of  Tapioca    29  !  Soups,  Cream 

Pie                 379 

Cream  of  Tomato   29 

Meat  and  Vege- 

Pudding       390 

Duchess                   25 

table                   10 

ShortCake    413 

Fish                          29 

from  Stock              2 

Sponge          429 

Fruit                         14    Sour  Dock                        280 

Tapioca         431 

Giblet                       14 

Pickles                     527 

Vinegar         543 

Green  Turtle           81 

Bcew                     205 

Water  Ice      461 

Gumbo  No.  1            15 

Soused  Pig's  Feet            145 

Stuffing,  Bread                220 

Gumbo  No.  2           15                Tripe                    109 

Onion              220 

Halibut                    30  :  Spanish  Bun                    47''.                    Potato              220 

Julienne                    5 

Spare  Rib                        144 

Sage                  220 

Lenten                   42 

Spice  Cake                     4S6 

Stuffings                           219 

Lentil                       6 

Spiced  Cantaloupe          527 

Sturgeon                           52 

Lobster,  Bisque  of  29 

Cherries                 527 

Baked                53 

Macaroni                   6 

Peaches                 526 

Broiled              53 

Mock  Bisque           29 

Pears                      527 

Pickled              52 

Mock  Turtle            16 

Plums                    527 

Stewed               52 

Mulligatawny          17 

Quinces                  527 

Succotash                         277 

Mutton                     18 

Watermelon  Rind  527 

Suet  Paste                       375 

Noodle               7,    18 

Spighetti                          H8 

Pudding                  398 

Normandy               19 

Spinach                           801 

Sugar,  To  Clarify            559 

Onion                        7 

Sponge  Cake                   488 

Vanilla,  To  Make  558 

Ox-Tail                    19 

Spring  Chicken               176 

Sunshine  Cake                489 

Oyster                     33 

Squab,  Salmi  of               201 

Sweet  Pickles                 526 

Oyster  Plant            28 

Squabs,  Baked                202 

Sweet  Potato  Bread        319 

Pea,  Dried                8 

Broiled               201 

Custard     383 

Pea,  Green              16 

Squash,  Summer             302 

Sweet  Potatoes,  Boiled  299 

Pen,  Split                 8 

Winter               002 

Fried       300 

Pepper  Pot              20 

Squirrel  Pie                    184 

Roasted   299 

Potato                     27 

Squirrels                         208 

Warmed 

Rabbit                      20 

Starch  for  Dark  Calicoes  553 

Over     300 

a  la  Reine                21 

Steel  Ware                       547 

Sweetbread  Croquettes  141 

Rice                          7 

Stewing  Fruits                516 

Cutlets        140 

EtafO                       8 

Stock,  Fish                        41 

Sweetbreads                    138 

Salmon                     31 

Sauce  and  Gravy  222 

alaB&harnel  140 

Salsify                      28 

Soup                         2 

Broiled              140 

Sorrel                         8 

Veal                       28 

&  la  Creme         13J 

Tomato  No.  1             9 

White                     23 

Fried                  139 

Tomato  No.  2             9 

Stone  Ware                     548 

au  Jus                141 

Turkish                     10 

Strawberries                    515 

Mayonnaise  of  237 

Turtle,  Green          31 

To  Can           522 

and  Peas  No.  1  138 

Turtle,  Mock           16 

Croquanteof422 

and  Peas  No.  2  139 

Vegetable,  Clear      5 

Frozen           465 

Swing  Fellows                477 

Vegetable,  with 

Strawberry  Bavarian 

Shin  of  Beef        22                            Cream      418 

Table  of  Weights  and 

Vegetable,  with- 

Ice Cream      452 

Measures                      563 

out  Meat               22 

Jelly               474 

Taffy                                  509 

Vermicelli               10 

Layer  Cake    494 

Tapioca  Cream               420 

580 


PHILADELPHIA    COOK   BOOK 


Tapioca  Custard              425 

Tripe,  Stewed                107 

Veal,  Shoulder  of            123 

Pudding            898 

Truffles                              554 

Stock                       23 

Soup                     29 

Turkey                             191 

Vegetables                      261 

Tarragon  Vinegar           635 

Boiled  No.  1        192 

Cooking  of   261 

Tartlets,  Paganini           383 

Boiled  No.  2        193 

Green            261 

Tea                                  541 

Boned                  194 

Wilted          262 

Frozen                      466 

Caponed             196 

Velvet,  To  Clean             553 

Tea  Biscuit  No.  1            323 

Galantine  of      195 

Velvet  Cream                  420 

No.  2             324 

Roast,  Cold         192 

Venison                            203 

Terrapin                            63 

Roasted  with 

Care  of               203 

Stewed               63 

Giblet  Sauce    192 

Cutlets                205 

Tin  Kitchen                      80 

Stuffed   with 

Hams,  To  Cure  206 

Ware                         545 

Chestnuts         192 

Haunch              203 

Toad  in  Hole                     99 

Stuffed    with 

Ragout  of           205 

Toasted  Cheese               364 

Truffles             192 

Saddle  of           204 

Tomato  Catsup  No.  1      533 

Turnip  Tops,  Boiled        306 

Steaks,  Broiled  2C4 

Catsup  No.  2      533 

Salad          242 

in  Chafing  Dish  206 

Catsup,  Cold      534 

Turnips,  Boiled               306 

Vinegar,  Chili                 535 

Farci                  304 

Browned                  306 

Raspberry        543 

Salad                  243 

with  Cream  Sauce  306 

Sauce                440 

Sauce                 232 

Tutti  Frutti  No.  1            454 

Strawberry      543 

Sauce,  Cream     232 

No.  2            454 

Tarragon         535 

Tomatoes,  Baked            303 

Virginia  Biscuit               339 

Broiled           305 

Utensils,  Kitchen           545 

Vol-au-Vent                     386 

Curried           305 

of  Chicken  386 

Fried  No.  1     304 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream  452,  453 

of  Lobster    386 

Fried  No.  2     305 

Parfait                 457 

of  Oysters    386 

Stewed           303 

Sauce                    440 

Stuffed           304 

Sugar                   558 

Waffles,  Grits                   329 

Tongue                             109 

Veal      .                           122 

Plain                   328 

Beef's,  Boiled    109 

Breast  of                  123 

Quick                  334 

Beef's,  Braised  110 

Croquettes               124 

Raised                328 

Beef's,  To  Cure  101 

Cutlets                     123 

Rice              328,  331 

Beef's,  Fillets  of  112 

Cutlets,  Breaded      124 

Walnut  Catsup                 534 

Beef's,  Larded 

Fricandeau  of          126 

Molasses  Candy  510 

and  Spiced      111 

Fricandelles  of        125 

Walnuts,  English,  To 

Beef's,  Smoked  109 

Galantine  of             130 

Glace             556 

Beef's,  on  Toast  112 

Grenadines  of         124 

Pickled            530 

Beef's,  Turkish  111 

Jellied                      129 

Washington  Pies             385 

Sheep's                120 

Knuckle,  Stewed    128 

Water                               562 

Tout  Fait                           435 

Loaf                         128 

To  Boil                   562 

Tripe,  Boiled                   107 

Loin  of                     122 

Bread                     317 

Broiled                  108 

Olives                       125 

Hard                       261 

Composition  of     107 

Pie                            127 

in  Meats                  79 

Fried                     108 

Pot-Pie                     127 

Soft                         261 

Mushrooms,  with  108 

Ragout  of  No.  1        129 

Watercress                       242 

Oysters,  and         109 

Ragout  of  No.  2        130 

Water  Ice,  Cherry           459 

To  Prepare           107 

Relish  of                   124 

Currant          459 

Soused                  107 

Salad                         237 

Ginger            460 

INDEX 


681 


Water  Ice,  Grape,  460 

Lemon  460 

Orange  460 

Pine-apple       461 

Pomegranate  461 

Raspberry      461 

Strawberry    461 

Water  Ices  458 

Watermelon  Rind, 

Preserved  523 
Spiced       527 

Watermelons,  To  Serve  515 
Weakfish,  Fried  44 

Welsh  Rare-Bit  364 


1  Weights  and  Measures, 

Wild  Pigeons 

210 

Table  of 

563  j  Wild  Turkey 

208 

What  to  Save 

157  i  Wine  Jelly 

467 

Wheat 

351  j           Sauce 

440 

Whipped  Cream 

557 

Winter  Squash 

302 

White  Mountain  Cake 

494 

Woodcock,  To  Roast 

212 

White  Sauce 

232 

Woodenware 

546 

Stock 

23 

Whitensh,  Fried 

44 

Yeast  No.  i 

815 

Planked 

47 

No.  2 

815 

Wild  Ducks,  Ragout  of 

•jn.t 

Yeast  Cake,  To  Use 

822 

Roasted 

209 

Salmi  of 

m 

Zephyr,  White, 

Wild  Goose 

m 

TO  Clean 

558 

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